A Photographic Essay by Jeff Bright In the world of steelhead

A Steelhead Fly Fisher’s Seasons on the Skeena
A Photographic Essay by Jeff Bright
In the world of steelhead angling destinations no other river system captivates the
fly fisher quite like northwestern British Columbia’s Skeena. e mere mention of
the name can induce an outbreak of steelhead fever. Its fish are those of legend and
each cast made into its free-flowing waters is a temptation to the fates of glory.
e “River of Mists” doesn’t give up her secrets without challenge; seldom are
the elements aligned perfectly in the fisher’s favor. But doubtless more fish-of-alifetime sea-run rainbow trout have been taken from this vast system of hallowed
tributaries than from any other on planet Earth.
If there is a better network of steelhead rivers in the universe — some magical
watershed hiding up there in the twinkling stars — transport me now with a pair of
waders, a spey rod and a box of jumbo marabou flies!
e images in this essay are but a brief glance at a small swatch of the vast Skeena
country, in particular the lower valley around the town of Terrace. ey were captured
over the course of four years on a number of expeditions and attempt to show
the seasonal characteristics of what is nearly a year-round venue for
steelhead angling. Only during the coldest iced-in days of winter
and the snowmelt-flood weeks of late May and June is finding a
willing steelhead not a reasonable proposition in the region. Lower
Skeena rivers are of the few in the entire Pacific Northwest that host
runs of steelhead during every season. For those of us who have got it bad,
this is very good news!
anks to the knowledgeable guides and hospitable staff at Nicholas Dean Lodge for
making these photos and words more than just dreams.
Summer
Late July, August and early September is primetime on the
lower mainstem Skeena. During these magical weeks of relatively
balmy weather, long days and gorgeous boreal sunsets the Skeena
is alive with literally millions of migrating fish. It is not beyond the
realm of imagination in mid-August to catch all five species of eastern Pacific salmon and steelhead in a single
day — all on the fly!
For those chasing steelhead the big
draw is knowing you could well have first
crack at the 20–30 pound trophies headed
upcountry for the Sustut, Babine, Kispiox and
Bulkley rivers. Hook one of these chrome-bright rockets on the
big river fresh from the salt chuck and the show is something you’ll
never forget. To land one of these special fish takes skill, tackle in
top condition and, more than anything, a huge store of luck. One
Skeena angler, after chasing a particularly impressive fish, summed
up the encounter this way: “It was like bringing a knife to a gunfight. I had no chance.”
From the middle of September to late October Skeena country is paradise
for the steelhead hunter. It is the place to be and anglers travel from far and wide
to feel the distinctive heavy pull from what has the potential to be the biggest
steelhead ever caught with hook and line. Chances are the
fish will be 8–15 pounds, very possibly between 15
and 20, and maybe, just maybe, over 30. Some even
say steelhead of 40 pounds have been hooked.
Whether true or false, it makes the mind spin.
Most all Skeena steelhead are aggressive fish, but relatively warm water temperatures make summer-run and fall-run fish particularly
so. One of fly fishing's greatest moments has to be the take from a large steelhead
on a floating fly skated across a boulder-strewn run. Seeing the fish rise up and
follow, boil the river’s surface and engulf the fly makes an indelible memory.
Fall
Winter
November and the early weeks of winter are a special time in the Lower
Skeena Valley. e sun arcs low in the sky, air temperatures are brisk and hoarfrost decorates the landscape. Along the rivers, moose appear on the gravel bars,
and wolf tracks dent the sand. With the last of the salmon, the bears are gone,
fully larded and headed upland for a long winter’s sleep. It’s
a time of rest for life along the river and those who visit
will find a contemplative stillness and the stark but
beautiful work of nature’s hand.
In the river, despite this chilled environment, survival’s flame continues to burn; the pools are stacked with
the tally of the summer and fall runs. For the dedicated steelheader, this is reason enough to endure most any climatic inconvenience. Donned with woolen
gloves, heavy socks and ski caps we search the softer currents with large, undulating flies. Rewards are hard-earned but the pearlescent pink sheen of a hen
steelhead’s cheek can make numb fingers and iced guides only minor distrac-
Spring
Generalizing on the climate and disposition of the Skeena region
and its rivers is an exercise in folly. Each expedition is a chess game with
the elements and the fish are predictable only in hindsight. But it can
be said with reasonable confidence that early spring offers the year’s
most dependable conditions for tempting steelhead with a fly.
During the latter half of March and throughout April, as winter
gives way to spring, precipitation continues to fall as snow on the ridges
and the rivers remain at winter height, flowing low, cold,
clean and green in the valley bottoms — perfect for
the double-hand rod, heavy sinktips and big
bushy flies.
And, oh yes, there are fish! Beginning in early
summer and continuing through fall, winter and
spring — right up to the May spawn — steelhead enter
the Skeena system. In spring, the tributaries host the bounty of this 10month run. Pools can hold fish with prominent red stripes alongside
fish bright and fresh from the sea and an angler can experience the full
range of character of one of the world’s greatest gamefish.