Fall 2015 / Winter 2016 ISSUE 10
Transcription
Fall 2015 / Winter 2016 ISSUE 10
Fall 2015 / Winter 2016 ISSUE 10 39 MAGAZINE ISSUE 10 • FALL 2015 / WINTER 2016 Welcome to blazer for men 22 the blazer staff 5 4 Leave it to Sweden Embark on a journey to Eton’s homeland 8 trend report Find out what fall and winter have in store for men’s fashion. CONTENTS 14 The BLAZER shoe guide Step into the season knowing everything you need to know about men’s footwear 20 there’s an app for that 8 What you need to know about the latest app trends 27 68 did you know? The Fashion Edition 56 smart car Ten things you need to know about German car company Mercedes-Benz 64 das style! How to visit Berlin in Style 50 big in japan Japanese company, Echizenya, is dressing men around the world 26 MEN OF STYLE CREDITS Getting personal with the Blazer Boys The Vital Group 155 Richmond St. East Toronto ON M5A 1N9 editor business 416 214 5555 x25 416 882 2428 www.thevitalgroup.ca photographer mobile stylist published by Patrick Huffman art director Jen Snow head writer Lisa Hannam David Wile Gregory Lalonde Style is art Cold climate outfits to inspire 37 saluti, prost! What to order for drinks in Milan or Berlin J E W E L L E R Y 30 60 blazer WELCOME Our style, our commitment Independently and locally owned, Blazer for Men has a full staff of highly trained sales associates and supportive personnel. Each is committed to customer service that goes beyond the expected, making a great impression for the first time customer, and setting the store apart from the competition for its loyal clients. You can rely on the Blazer for Men staff for style knowledge, wardrobe advice, and shopping guidance. WELCOME TO BLAZER FOR MEN 27 YEARS LATER As much as fashion and retail changes, many things will remain the same - our vision for customer experience. When I decided to open my own menswear store in 1988, I had a plan. The goal was to build a shop where men could find everything they needed all in one location. The environment was to be easy and relaxed. A location that was convenient, hassle-free and close to home. Being an integral part of the community was important to me. My “slogan” 27 years ago was “You don’t need a lot of clothes, you need the right clothes!”, which I still believe is true today. I have made it my commitment to create the best experiences for our customers, in a high energy, positive environment serviced by knowledgeable professionals. Check out our feature “Men of Style” on page 30 for a fashion Q&A with Blazers’ own consultants The retail landscape has dramatically changed over the last 25 years into a fast paced, product pushing model, with the arrival of big box stores, vertical Brand stores and online sales. But I have to be honest, that has only strengthened our position, giving customers individual attention, professional style advice and genuine service, before, during and after the sale, is our mission. I guess, just being good listeners first. When we say “we travel the globe to look for what’s new and exciting”, we really do! In our last few trips to Milan, Florence, Berlin and Amsterdam, we’ve found new brands that we think are perfect for our customers. To name just a few, we’ve introduced Boglioli, Eleventy, Landi, Montecore, Tintoria Mattei to our collections, you may not have even heard of most of these. Our quest is to not only find new and exciting brands, but to find new brands, that “fit”, in every respect. The Fall Autumn 2015 season, I can truly say, is the most interesting season ever for fashion and collections, every brand has a story and we are excited to share them with you! –Randy Lalonde The Blazer Staff owner RANDY LALONDE 4 manager BRIAN LALONDE assistant manager | buyer GREGORY LALONDE consultant MATTHEW KING consultant | visual merchandiser RYAN TARTAGLIO consultant PATRICK HUFFMAN assistant MICHAEL TROFIMIUK head tailor GRACE TROFIMIUK 5 blazer TRAVEL LEAVE IT TO Never hand over a shirt before you are completely satisfied with it. Swedish shirtmakers Eton of Sweden extended to us a trip of a lifetime to their head offices in Sweden this past May, to learn about the history and the processes behind the best shirts in the world. The trip began with a cross-Atlantic redeye flight through Copenhagen to Sweden’s Gothenburg airport. Arriving to a small welcoming committee between the Volvo signs and baggage carousels, unsure of what to expect, I found myself in the company of two other wellknown North American retailers whom were also invited to the week’s carefully planned activities. We were whisked to a small boutique hotel in the quaint neighboring town of Borås, where the festivities began, champagne in hand. Among the small crowd were the Eton directors, including CEO Hans Davidson, a helpful support crew and 23 other retailers from North America. The mood was cheery and the drinks flowed freely, before we made our way to Borås’ finest restaurant for our first of many 5 star meals in the coming days. It became quickly apparent that this trip was primarily a big ‘thank you’ to those retailers who have supported ETON during its largest growth period in the company’s 87 year history. The following morning we made our way to the town of Gånghester, where Eton’s humble head office and manufacturing facility built in the 1940’s—and recently built state-of-the-art warehouse — dominate the sparsely populated streets. Our first workshop illuminated the history of the company and the roots of the legendary shirts it produces. the world’s finest fabrics, they came across the town of Eton. The name resonated and ‘The Eton Shirt’ was born. The overwhelming success of this collection led the company to rebrand a few years later, and has since been the name most associated with quality dress shirts the world over. In the early 1960’s, ETON’s success required them to adopt a more efficient manufacturing process. Inge Davidson (Annie and David’s third son) conceptualized and installed an automated transport line which carried pieces from each stage of development, which made the planning, storage and quality control of shirt production far more economical. We witnessed the newest iteration of the original machinery in their factory in Gånghester, that would not only help Eton Shirts survive growing competition from newly industrialised countries of the 60’s, but would also lay groundwork for automizing garment factories and revolutionize the entire clothing industry. The Eton System can now be found in over 6000 factories in 40 countries. The company once known as ‘Syfabriken Special’ was started by Annie and David Pettersson in their kitchen during the Depression in the 1920’s. Their simple motto, “never hand over a shirt before you are completely satisfied with it,” was and is the cornerstone for their company’s success. Their four sons, including Rune and Arne, continued their legacy, and during a trip to England in the late 1940’s in search of 8 9 blazer INTERESTING FACT: The majority of Eton’s American Pima cotton is grown on the very same farmlands from which Heinz buys many of their tomatoes. As cotton leaches nutrients from the ground at a high rate, tomatoes tend to offset this by enriching the soil, so alternating tomatoes and cotton crops creates a manageable balance for farmers. Next time you spill a bit of ketchup on your crisp Eton shirt, you’re actually reuniting old friends! TRAVEL ETON aims to produce a record 1,000,000 shirts this year. This is partly possible thanks to Jan Borghardt, Head of Design for ETON in 1981, when he stopped relying on other mills to produce quality fabrics and interesting designs, and began spinning proprietary fabric and creating their own patterns. This monumental course change allowed ETON to own every step in a shirt’s production from cotton to customer, whilst improving quality and design. They only use the best ELS (Extra Long Staple) cotton from Egypt and the USA with staple lengths over 40mm, and weave true 2x2 ply fabrics for further resilience and body. Perhaps the greatest advantage the ETON shirt has over competition is its easy care. No shirt is truly ‘non-iron,’ as many of those who claim to achieve this simply coat their fabric with a formaldehyde or some other chemical, which is either not good for your health, damaging to the environment, or likely both. ETON’s partner treatment facility in Switzerland changes the fabric at a molecular level through a rigorous 4 week organic treatment process, using no chemicals while retaining the softness of the cotton. This unique process ensures fabric durability and lustre, even after hundreds of washes. It was an information-packed morning! For lunch, we were guided to their onsite cafeteria. All of the staff that worked in Gånghester at any of the ETON buildings gather for lunch together. They can choose their meals at the beginning of every week, and the expert kitchen staff have their dishes ready when they arrive every day. What a wonderful way to treat your staff, I thought to myself. The meal was restaurant quality, and had us ready for the afternoon exploring the warehouse and meeting more friendly staff at every corner. A three-hour, late afternoon train ride throughout the Swedish countryside — which closely resembled the rocky shield and countless lakes in Muskoka — led us to the country’s capital city of Stockholm, where ETON had booked a trendy restaurant for us to freely mingle and get to know our travel partners and ETON coordinators after a long day of learning and commuting. I got to know some of the best retailers in North America on this trip, and being able to bounce ideas and enjoy conversations with industry leaders was truly a rare opportunity. The following morning, very early I might add, we gathered at a local movie theatre where the current Head of Design, Sebastian Dollinger and the marketing team were ready to teach us their secrets for success in today’s fast paced world. Being in charge of design for a €100,000,000 company in your early 30’s sounds like a stressful job, but Sebastian’s cool demeanor and exotic flair shows no sign of it. “We want to be the future vintage shirts,” declared Sebastian, underlining the importance of quality, durability and style in an ETON shirt. For our final dinner together, The ETON team pulled out all of the stops. We weren’t given any details, but were instructed to dress colorfully. We paraded down Stockholm’s busiest street toward the main pier, where a wooden river boat was waiting for us. A scenic tour around the winding channels of Stockholm led us to the lush and vast Hagaparken, home to Swedish royalty for centuries and steeped in history. Of course, horse-drawn carriages awaited us there, and in short time off we galloped through the trees in the brisk spring evening air. We reached a large glass greenhouse, where upon opening the doors we were greeted with a rush of tropical humidity and lush greenery — the ETON team had turned the city’s butterfly conservatory into our very own Midsummer party hall. ETON’S homeland of Ladies first! O Hagapa n a boat to rken SWEDEN on ghts i s e th g in l day n i k a T utifu a bea Every summer solstice, Swedes let loose with their friends for Midsummer celebration, feasting on a smörgåsbord, singing traditional drinking songs and dancing around a maypole (which was explained to me as a phallic fertility symbol). We ate, we drank, we sang and we danced. We felt as if we were a part of the family. After a short sleep, I had my final day in Stockholm to myself to explore the streets and styles, while pondering the lessons learned over the previous three actionpacked days. The importance of the ‘corporate family’ resonated strongly, and the week’s events solidified its significance in developing a strong brand. Treating your customers like an extension to your family, much like the ETON team did with me, can result in fierce loyalty with a mutually beneficial outcome. holm k c o t hS roug h t ling Strol I think it is safe to say Sweden is recognized for their fish, meatballs, cars, chefs, sustainability, flat-packed furniture, among many other revolutionizing items and ideas. But soon they will also be regarded as the purveyors of the finest dress shirts in the world. When it comes to the pursuit of function and style, leave it to Sweden. –Gregory Lalonde Treating your customers like an extension of your family, much like the Eton team did with me, can result in fierce loyalty with a mutually beneficial outcome. 10 Planes, trains and boats took Gregory around s party wa r e m m u s Mid ! awesome The E ton sy stem 11 fall 2015 Made with pride in Canada. Coppley.com blazer Find out what Fall 2015/Winter 2016 have in store for you. AT BLAZER FOR MEN, IT’S OUR PASSION TO DRESS YOU IN BEAUTIFUL QUALITY GARMENTS. BUT WE ALSO KEEP OUR EYE OUT FOR TRENDS THAT NOT ONLY UP YOUR FASHION GAME, BUT ALSO MAKE YOU LOOK DAMN GOOD. AND THIS FALL HAS US PRETTY EXCITED FOR THE LATEST TEXTURES AND COVETABLE PIECES YOUR WARDROBE IS CRAVING. HERE IS A ROUND UP OF THE TRENDS WE’RE LOVING THIS SEASON. FABRIC GETS A NEW FACE While the structure and design of men’s pieces are streamlined and slick, the fabrics used are anything but. Take a look up close, touch it and stretch it, and you’ll see what we mean. STRETCH KNITS are big this season, adding a new dimension to cotton and wool fabrics. The shape is flattering, which is what really matters, and it adds a sense of quality and performance that is comfortable and moveable. A great stretch-knit entry piece is the sports coat. We’re loving Z Zegna, Strellson and Boglioli for what they are doing with jackets this season. KNITTED GARMENTS are at a peak right now and it all began with the “knitted” blazer trend that began four years ago. It’s going strong and the trend is expanding to other pieces of the wardrobe including the sports jacket, dressy outerwear and versatile trousers. Pant brands, like AG, Alberto, Heritage, Echizenya and others, are creating an unbeatable fit that looks like perfection. But it’s also gone into the denim category, as well. Yes, knit denim! Don’t knock it till you try it! ONES TO WATCH Here are two Italian brands we think you need to know about. 1 BOGLIOLI ALPHA STUDIO While their claim to fame is being the creators of the “hybrid jacket,” menswear insiders know that it’s their manufacturing processes that make their pieces worth the investment. Other brands will dye and wash fabric before a garment is constructed. But Boglioli, who’s factories are located in Brescia, Italy, does this after the jacket is made. The result, a perfect combination to fit and form. And that is where reputation of having the softest jacket fabrics come from. Their sports coats feel like blazers. Come into the store and see the variety of jackets and knitted blazers for fall. While Alpha Studio has been around 30 plus years, the Comeana, Italy-based brand is doing great things right now in outerwear. It’s state-of-the-art knitting processes and craftsmanship fuse together tradition and innovation, which the company is very proud of. The loop-stitches and jacquard textiles are the company’s secrets. Their coats are made of knitted wool that is boiled and fitted. The end product is a dress top coat that feels like a sweater. You’ll never want to take it off. TREND REPORT As for shirts, LIGHTWEIGHT KNITS are favoured because of the woven look and flexibility. The stretchcut makes them wearable, and the prints are subtle. And for more casual shirts, lightweight printed jersey knits add a new level of comfort. PRINTS CHARMING 2 THE ESSENTIALS Remember when we said to look up close at fabrics? Well, grab your magnifying glass. Micro prints and patterns are adding an interesting twist to basics, classics and neutrals. The trends are moving away from the bold, colourful stripes and plaids of years past. Instead motifs and designs are more detailed on garments than outlandish self expression. So keep your eye out for pin dots, dobby weaves, jacquards and other eye-straining beauties on brands like Tintoria Mattei and SAND. Here’s our list of our favourite things. Come into the store, and let us show you why we’re loving each and every one. THE SHIRT JACKET Z Zenga is the mastermind behind this revolutionary shirt construction transition piece. It’s a sports coat that has a stretch that’s unique to shirts. The two-button blazer is made with jersey cotton that gives the dressed-up look a relaxed style. THE JOGGER SUIT 4 14 3 FASHION Every once in awhile, the fashion industry has an a-ha moment – and right now it is the jogger. The pant, made with various fabric weights of jersey material, has an elasticized cuff. While the look isn’t for everyone, the jogger has evolved into a suit. It’s not sloppy or overly relaxed, though. The slim-fit Strellson suit was designed with a cozy stretch fabric interestingly paired with classic menswear tailoring. The notched lapels, two-button, singlebreasted jacket anchors the look of the single pleat, zip-fly pants. We love it for travel (imagine wearing it on a stuffy plane) and the bike-ride commute (no cuff roll-ups required). THE NEW CASUAL PANT Move over jeans and khakis. Make room in the closet for the new casual pant; trimmer, dressier and just as comfortable as your old favourites. And that’s because the brands like Echizenya and Hiltl haven’t compromised fabric, design and aesthetics for the upscale, casual trend. 15 TREND REPORT CONTINUED FABRICOLOGY 101 Here’s what you need to now about the trendiest textiles ALPACA: The long wool is named after the Peruvian alpaca, which gives the fabric its soft feel and resilience. CAMEL HAIR: It comes from the undercoat hair of the two-hump camel. And it is sourced ethically, as it’s not clipped or shaved, but gathered from the ground. CASHMERE: The fibres are taken from the undercoat of the Kasmir goat is used in pure and blended forms of soft-twilled fabrics. CORDUROY: A durable cut-pile fabric with vertical ribs. FLANNEL: A soft-twilled fabric with a nappy, loose feel. It comes in plain and ribbed weaves. HERRINGBONE: This is an iconic, classic pattern made of zigzag or chevron patterns that look like the backbone of a herring. HOUNDSTOOTH: A contrasting pattern of small broken checks that look like a dog’s incisor tooth. L AMB’S WOOL: The super soft fabric is made from a young sheep’s first shearing. MOHAIR: This fabric comes from the Angora goat, and is known for its light feel. Often it is blended with wool. SHETLAND: This light, tweed-like textile is made from the undercoat of sheep raised on the Shetland Islands, Scotland. TWEED: This is a wiry wool used to mélange different colours of yarn. TWIST: Two yarns are coiled to make one strand and give material a unique pattern and look. W OOLEN: This term is used when different wool fibres of varying lengths create a soft and thick fabric. It’s often used in tweed. HOLY FASHION GROUP strellson.com blazer FASHION THE BLAZER FOR MEN SHOE GUIDE STEP INTO THE SEASON KNOWING EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO ABOUT MEN’S FOOTWEAR. Did you know: Blazer has over 50 styles of shoes in store? We’ve really got you covered head to toe. 4. MONKS Under the cuff of a pant, the monk strap looks like your typical oxford or derby. But instead of laces, a wide buckled strap crosses over the top of the shoe as a closure. Slim-fit trousers look best so you can show off your hardware. Some monks have two buckles. The choice is yours. Rumour has it that monks wore them when they weren’t wearing sandals. Aside from its longevity, this is a very trendy shoe and suits men with a fashionforward taste level. 8. CHELSEA BOOTS Originally favoured by writers, musicians and London’s fashionable set, the Chelsea boot is an equestrian style slip-on boot that has a stretchy gusset panel on both sides to make it easy to get on and off. These are very casual, howeversome dress shoemakers have created an elevated version with a slick toe for more formal occasions. 4 5. LOAFERS 1. OXFORDS The leather oxford, also known as balmorals, is the shoe every man must have. It’s a sartorial classic; thanks to its clean lines. Think simple design: a seamless style, possible toecap, and laces. You can wear it casually with denim and chinos or dressed up with a jacket or suit. And if you have a patent pair, it is the most formal shoes a man can wear – get the tails cleaned! 1 2. BROGUES 2 3. DERBIES 3 20 The derby is the slightly more casual cousin of the oxford. Although they also come in black, derbies can also come in leather hues described as cognac, oxblood, tobacco, red, brown and more. If your day job requires a suit, derbies give you more options on what to wear on your feet every day. Plus, they look good with jeans or khakis and a sports jacket. They’re sometimes called bluchers. Love fashionable details? Then you likely have a pair of brogues in your shoe wardrobe. The brogue shoe has the most beautiful treatment with perforated holes decorating the layered leathers. It has been said that the original purpose for the Irish design was to deal with the elements and drain water from the feet. There are sub-classifications for brogues and they can be made many types of leather – the softer the leather, the more casual the brogue. Depending on the look, the colour and the shine, it can be worn for day and night. It really is the perfect fall shoe. The loafer has recently come back in style, specifically during the summer months. Mostly because it can be worn with or without socks. And because of the low vamp, it’s a favourite for men who love to show off bold socks. The upper usually has little to no detail, save for a strap, a penny or a tassel. It can also make small feet look longer. Style it like you would a derby. 5 6. CHUKKAS The chukka boot is the choice for men who want classic footwear with a more solid look. The clean design allows for just three eyelets and it’s usually made from leather or suede. A leather or black rubber sole dresses it up, while a crepe sole turns the chukka into a dessert boot. It’s not worn with a suit, and is more a casual boot. Wear chukkas with your favourite jeans. 7. HUNTING BOOT The perfect Canadian winter boot is the hunting boot. The rubber sole comes up above the toes and vamp and meets with a synthetic boot shaft. Inside, some offer a cozy shearling lining that becomes even more comfortable when you lace the boots snugly. Wear it with your casual winter jacket, like a puffer or bomber, and tucked-in jeans. 6 7 8 21 blazer FASHION ANATOMY OF A SHOE TOES TALK The shape of the toe is a major ‘tell’ of how old your shoes are. Wide, square toes are out, and slim, almond shoes are in. You want a streamlined look that works well with the slim suit that’s on trend right now. Now that we have that covered, consider any of these toe styles. topline welt throat vamp Quarter toe facing shank outsole PLAIN TOE WINGTIPS If you want something that’s not fussy but elegant, then the clean look of a plain toe is the way to go. It is very formal and works with all types of suits. HOW TO WEAR SHOES SEMI BROGUES This is one of the brogue Think of this as a fusion styles. Wingtips have a leather between a brogue and a toecap. upper that look like a W or wings It’s more simple than the wingtip. shape that’s perforated along the It’s also referred to as the halfedges and on the toes. It spans brogue. It’s less formal across the toes and down than a plain-toe the sides of TOE CAP oxford. the shoe. This is exactly what it sounds like. A piece of leather that caps off the toe. The seam line across the top adds an interesting element. It’s great for dressy work wear. There’s more to it than just putting them on your feet. BROWN VS. BLACK SOLES LEATHER VS. RUBBER Leather taps, soles and heels have generally been thought to be much more dressy than rubber ones, but shoemakers have designed some smart-looking rubber-based footwear. It’s more about the thickness of the rubber than the actual material. Think about the Cs: If it’s chunky looking, then it is casual. European men save the black shoes for more formal attire, and everyday footwear is about brown and its varying shades. Here in Canada, and in the United States, we think we need to match everything with brown leather shoes, from our jackets to our watchbands. But when you look at European men, it’s the tone of the brown shoes that makes the difference. Jeans or chinos call for a light brown shoe, and a business suit or overcoat pair better with chocolate brown. DRESS BOOTS VS. DRESS SHOES When it comes to what to wear with a suit, it’s up to you whether you choose dress boots or dress shoes. But for a very formal occasion, stick with your patent oxfords. SNEAKERS WITH A SUIT!? If you have a creative job that allows you to be more expressive with your business suit, you just might be able to wear sneakers to work. The thin white sole of plimsolls is a very smart and stylish look that doesn’t discriminate age. But make sure your suit is just as trendy as your footwear choice. Opt for a slim suit with cropped pants. But leave your high-tops at the basketball court. SOCKS Don’t be so stuffy. Let your socks express how you’re feeling. 22 23 RED WING HERITAGE Copyright © 2015 Red Wing Shoe Company Inc. Roughneck redwingheritage.com blazer FASHION BIG IN JAPAN WOOL DONEGAL These winter weight wool pants have a splash of colour and a whole lot of style. Not for the feint of heart, these trousers aren’t your run of the mill chinos. A tonal pattern woven into the fabric gives a unique visual interest to the look of this pant. It can be dressed up or work smartly casual all year round. Echizenya pants bring Italian style and Japanese design into your wardrobe. TONAL JACQUARD KNIT BOUCLÉ Ever wanted to wear jogging pants to work? These slim stretchy cotton pants give you ultimate comfort and keeps you ahead of the fashion curve. This cloth is dyed to give it a mélange of colours. Then a fine-brush gives it a unique look that makes it wearable all season long. MÉLANGE COTTON TWILL Japanese trouser company Echizenya is debuting this fall in Canada at Blazer For Men. During their trip to Pitti Uomo in Florence this past January, Randy and Gregory came across a tradeshow booth staffed by Mr. Asai, his wife and his son, a family of Japanese pantmakers, looking to leave a mark on the European fashion world with their concise selection of unique trousers. What they didn’t expect was a father-son duo from Canada placing an order! The Blazer buyers fell in love with the product, admired the people and were intrigued by their story, and decided to bring home a small collection of their trousers to share with their customers. Echizenya pants (also known as Calzoni in the international market) are designed and manufactured in Matsuura, a small city surrounded by mountains on the southern tip of Japan. The 65-year-old company employs artisans to make the pants with meticulous care. Each pair is carefully inspected over 10 stages to ensure a perfect fit and long-term wear. They fit close to the body and is designed with a modern silhouette in mind. Some of the fabrics are made in Italy, however the largest part of their fabric collection is made right there in Japan. The style is Italian-inspired, but the unusual fabrics retain that distinct Japanese flair. Outlined on the opposite page are a few of the styles that were brought into Canada for the first time. However, to really appreciate their uniqueness, you’ll have to come in and try them on! 26 27 FASHION FASHION blazer MEN OF STYLE It’s been said that clothes don’t make the man. But, as we discover from Blazer for Men’s consultants, it’s the men who create the looks. What’s the difference between a well-dressed man and a stylish man? His approach to choosing the garments he wears and the confidence he has in his clothes and himself. “If there was one thing I could broadcast to the world, it would be that dressing well isn’t an exercise in self-importance or ostentatiousness, but rather an expression of self-respect and respect for those around you.” says Gregory Lalonde. “When you find clothes you feel great in, it can instill confidence that can have a positive effect on your life.” The menswear buyer and the team at Blazer for Men share their insights on what life is like in their shoes, and a few signature style tips for good measure. B BRIAN LALONDE Brian has worked at Blazer for Men with Randy since its first year of operation. With more than 27 years of experience, Brian loves what he does and why he has such a great following as a full-time consultant in the store. He and his wife Tracy have two children, Shanley and Brady. M MATTHEW KING Matthew was born and raised in Calgary, graduated from Saint Mary’s University in Halifax. Originally a customer at the store with knowledge of the product we sold, who became a permanent member of the team in 1990. G GREGORY LALONDE Gregory practically grew up in the business, hanging around the Blazer for Men store since he was just three years old. It’s in his blood, so to speak. He plays a very strategic part in the company, and has been full-time for five years now. He leaves his mark on every part of the business. R RYAN TARTAGLIO Ryan grew up in Calgary and moved to Toronto just over 10 years ago. He has always loved clothes and has an honours degree in fashion management and merchandising. He admittedly loves fashion and will stop at nothing to find the perfect outfit for anyone. Blazer: When do you decide what you’ll wear? B I normally decide what to wear when I’m shaving. I look at myself and see what mood I’m in. I also check outside for the weather. More often than not, I’ll wear a sport jacket because I feel most comfortable in one. Then I pick out a shirt and pant to complete the outfit. M I usually decide what I’m going to wear the day of. I think about it a bit over my morning coffee. The caffeine jolt usually hits me in the shower and that’s when I make my final decision. However, if there a special event is coming up, I will give it some thought the night before. G When I’m in the shower, I’ll think of an item or two I feel like wearing. And then I’ll build the outfit around that when it comes time to get dressed. R I dress inspired by my mood. And I always add a current trend element to my outfit, such as stacked bracelets, a lapel pin, and a colour trend with a shirt. Blazer: How do you organize your closet? B I have a two-tier system. Jackets and shirts are on top, and pants and jeans are on the bottom. They are all organized by colour and season. M The left side of closet is for my more casual and weekend clothing. The right side is for my dress clothes. All of my workout, athletic and gym wear are put in a separate closet. G I have a seven-foot rack, organized from dressy to casual. It keeps all of my potential matches together. My pants are folded and arranged by season, with the current season at the top. My shoes, though, are scattered throughout the house. It’s like a fun game of “hide and seek” right before I leave in the morning. R I organize my closet based on colour and tone, from lightest to darkest. And I do a seasonal flip twice a year. At that point, I also assess what I haven’t worn in a season and donate pieces to charity. 30 31 blazer Blazer: What is your suit wardrobe like? B I have currently two suits: one formal for all occasions, and one bold one for fun. I keep it to just two suits because I have more of a jacket wardrobe. I’m more comfortable wearing jackets, and they are more versatile for me on most occasions. M At the moment I have four suits, and it’s time to get another one. Thanks for the reminder. I like to have at least five in rotation so I never have to wear the same suit more than once a week. G I have four suits: a year-round, solidcharcoal suit; a fall, tweed, grey-check suit; a summer, navy-check suit; and a fall, navy, polkadot suit. All my bases are covered for special events throughout the year with these, and I don’t wear suits during the week, so four is the right number for me. R I have two suits – a navy one and a charcoal one. I prefer to mix separate pieces every chance I can get. I did just buy a black jersey knit “athleisure” suit. The trouser bottoms are joggers, so it doesn’t really count as a traditional suit. Blazer: What makes the perfect shirt? B A white shirt with a semi-spread collar, mother-of-pearl or coloured buttons. You can’t go wrong with this, as it goes with everything. M A classic shirt is a crisp and white, whether it’s plain or it’s something a little different with coloured buttons or a tonal pattern. Right now, I probably have four or five shirts that fit that description. G The classic shirt is a collared, button-up cotton shirt. It can be crisp or soft, depending on the occasion. It can be solid, have a slight pattern or texture, but it must always have a white ground. R As I dress mostly in separates, a crisp, white shirt never looks boring. Although, I do dress vibrantly, so pattern matching is always in the back of my mind when choosing shirts. Blazer: Do you recommend men invest in a shoe wardrobe? B Yes. I have a varied shoe wardrobe. I tend to wear the comfortable ones most often. Together, I have one black dress pair, one dress brown pair and two casual pairs, including a suede pair and a leather pair. They are all lace-ups. I also have two 32 FASHION pairs of low-top boots for jeans on weekends. Six pairs cover all scenarios for me. R I love colour! I push people to try colour in their wardrobe all the time. There’s a trend colour every season. If you adopt it in your wardrobe, it somehow pushes you to refine your own style. M I don’t know if I would call it a wardrobe, but I do have a collection of shoes. Lately, I’ve been buying brown and grey shoes to mix things up a bit. Shoes are like clothes, every once in awhile you have to get rid of the ones you don’t wear anymore. I have to admit, I have a full shoe wardrobe. One must-have is a pair of brown dress shoes, preferably with a brogue or burnished detail. You also need a pair of current yet versatile fashion sneakers, whether it’s a New Balance-type or a monochromatic high top. Don’t go for bright colours, and no crazy stripes. Keep it basic. Blazer: What’s your take on trendy versus classic? B To me, a classic garment is considered to be a modern silhouette with a subtle pattern like a small print, a mini check or a tone-on-tone. These never go out of style. Whereas trendy is more of a lofted fabric, heavier in look and pattern, often found in sweaters, pants, or surface finish sport coats. They can be a lot more fun to wear for sure. M Trends come and go. Remember the mullet? Classics may change subtly over time, but they don’t tend to stand out as much. It’s always nice to have some fun trendy pieces in your wardrobe. G Currently, the trends are about adopting classic elements into a look, so that is a tough question right now. Though, the rule of thumb is if you imagine yourself five years from now looking back at pictures of you today and cringing a bit, it’s likely just a passing trend. There’s nothing inherently wrong with trends or being trendy, however. It’s a visual identifier that shows you are willing to explore and have a little fun. R Clothing styles have really more refined than evolved over the years. The life cycle of a trend has sped up so much! Revivals and past generation trends appear and are interpreted by modern society at a fast rate. beard. It’s also a good motivator to go to the gym in the first place. I eat breakfast after I get dressed. I’m not hungry before then. Blazer: What about denim? Blazer: What’s the first thing you do when you go home? B Blazer: What’s your take on men’s jewellery? B I am not opposed to jewellery on others, although I wear very little myself. My wife blows our jewellery budget. G Everyone is different, based on their lifestyle. If you regularly wear suits, it’s not unreasonable to have five pairs of investment dress shoes. But if your daily routine is less formal, a good balance of hybrid or casual shoes are a must. Don’t forget about a pair of great boots too, as they will come in handy for those dreary days when you still need to look your best. R and workout gear in the dryer. Price does not matter to me when it comes to how I wash my clothes. I am cautious no matter what. M Men’s jewellery? Sure why not? Have some fun. Blazer: How many times do you change in a day? B I can have two looks in one day. First, I have my work attire and then when I get home I usually change into denim or track pants with a casual top. It’s all about comfort. Generally, I only wear two looks in one day: What I wear to work and what I wear when I get home. The after-work look will vary depending on what I am doing, whether it’s going to a party, out for dinner, to a movie, to the gym or just chilling. Blazer: Should men wear more colour? B I am fairly conservative with my look. I tend to wear a lot of blue, charcoal and black. All these colours appear to suit me best and since I am a little stocky, and it makes me appear slimmer. I get enough digs about this at work! M I’ve been accused of having a closet full of blue, but that’s not quite true. I like colour. G It’s a personal choice, and it all depends on what you want your visual signature to be. For those with a neutral wardrobe, easy colours to wear include a versatile blue and rich brown. But beyond that, a splash of colour like red or green can make impact when executed tastefully and can bring a look to life. On the other hand, monochromatic looks can be very appealing and timeless. There’s no simple way to incorporate colour. You just have to experiment. All my jeans go in the wash. I usually hang them to dry, unless I’m in a hurry when I might toss them in the dryer for a few minutes. G Beat them up and show them who is boss! “Work wear,” such as jeans, is meant to be worn hard. And over time they get more comfortable and look better. If you want to dress up a casual look, then a nicer pair of cotton-twill chinos will be sharper than jeans. I spend the time caring for those much more than denim. Blazer: What makes you feel like you look good? B Colour and things that make appear slimmer look good on me. Obviously when someone compliments my appearance it brightens my day. G R I would say, my work outfit, my loungearound-the-house outfit and my gym outfit. M R I rarely wash them. I hate faded jeans. Of course there is a line – I also like smelling good. M I’ll wear three different outfits on any given day, accommodating how I need to look for the dog walk in the morning, being at work during the day and for my plans after work. They all call for a different look and feel, so I change accordingly. I wash my jeans as needed. Denim tends to build more character the less you wash it, and they last longer, too. I use cold water to wash, and I always hang it hang to dry. G Why not!? There’s no prescription for accessories. R The way fashion is now; you can use every opportunity to define your style. If jewellery is a part of that, then go for it! Blazer: How do you maintain the look of your clothes? B Shirts, cottons and jeans I wash myself. I don’t use chemicals, which is easier on fabrics. I only dry-clean my suits and dress pants. I tend to take better care of my more expensive clothes. M The only clothing I dry-clean are my suits, sport jackets and dress pants. Pretty much everything else goes into the wash. G I dry-clean my suits, sport coats, cashmere and outerwear. Everything else can handle the gentle cycle. The price can factor into how closely I stick to the washing instructions, but if I know the fabric can handle water, I usually don’t sweat it too much. R I am very particular about my washing rituals. I dry-clean anything that says so on the label. I have a T-shirt that needs dry-cleaning. I wash most colours in cold and only put socks M When my clothes are clean and pressed, I feel good about what I’m wearing. If you feel good about your clothes you will also feel more confident. G I like playing with new combinations. Even if I’ve owned the clothes for years, if I find a new way to wear them, then I usually feel great. Of course, getting a new item also generates a little extra swagger in my step. R I know I look good when I am wearing exactly what is appropriate. Blazer: What’s your morning routine? B I shave after I shower. I feel that my skin is a little softer afterwards and it is much easier to shave then. I eat breakfast a lot of time when I’m on the go because I have a bit of a commute for work. M Coffee, quick shower, shave and then I’m out the door. I usually have a snack when I get to work. G I don’t shave. I do just a trim, which only happens after a shower. I generally eat before getting dressed, but a good sleep-in may take precedence every once in a while. R I actually shave at the gym whenever I can. The steam room and shower soften my B I always greet my wife and two kids, and then I do the dishes. M I change my clothes. G Kiss my wife and change my socks. R I put on something with an elastic waist. No judgments here. Blazer: Finally, what’s your secret to great style? B I take chances with fashion. You will always feel more confident with yourself when you do. The more confidant you are with your appearance, the more successful you will be. It may cost more, but if you can afford it, try it once and see who notices. M You have to watch out for a few things. For example: Some colours don’t work well together, and some patterns don’t work with each other. Also, we are all creatures of habit and sometimes need a nudge to try something different – something outside of our comfort zones. Everyone has a different sense of personal style, and what works for me may not work for you. But just make sure that your clothes fit properly and you feel good about wearing them. G First and foremost: Clothes have to feel good. They have to fit well and be a joy to wear. After that, I think one of the most important keys to making clothes look good when putting them together is tonality. The tones and colours, patterns and fabrics should be complimentary. Meaning: they should be neither too similar nor too different. A tie that is significantly lighter than the shirt colour seems disconnected, for example. Pairing jeans with a suit jacket would be an example of an abrupt pairing in fabric. Wearing a blue blazer and a separate slightly darker blue pant isn’t recommended because they are so similar. You could be mistaken for wearing a poorly matched suit! These examples are general rules that can be bent or broken in the right context, but can be effectively used to guide style decisions. The rest is a never-ending quest to refining personal style. R Education. Learning a few cardinal rules will let you play with your own style. 33 FASHION FASHION STYLE IS ART Clothes are the primary media in the art of style. Besides, what could possibly be more artistic than self-expression? Finding clothes that strike that perfect balance of form and function, and combining them into our own visual signature can express how we feel about ourselves and our surroundings. We’ve lined up 11 outfits that we found to be visually striking and functionally superior, and laid them out in our miniature art gallery on the pages ahead. Admission is free, but be sure to stop by the store to experience all of the masterpieces we have to offer. 37 FASHION blazer No 1 No 2 HETREGO Barberis Wool/Nylon Bomber LUIGI BIANCHI Lofty Wool Topcoat $1298 | Italy $858 | Moldavia SAND Wool Cable Knit $445 | China BOGLIOLI Washed Wool Jacket CULTURATA Brushed Cotton Plaid Shirt CANALI Knit Cotton Shirt $208 | Italy $328 | Italy CHELSEY Micro Chenille Scarf HILTL Perfetto Flannel Dress Pant $120 | China $280 | Romania FERRANTE Washed Wool Toque CHELSEY Paisley Scarf $128 | Italy $140 | Italy DL 1961 Stretch Denim MICHELASSI Wool Paisley Pocket Square $248 | Pakistan $65 | Italy LLOYD Gortex Boot LOAKE ‘Warton’ Brogue Shoe $359 | Romania $550 | England 38 $1898 | Italy 39 FASHION FASHION blazer No 3 No 4 HETREGO Down (Wool/Nylon) Bomber Jacket | $758 - Europe FERRANTE Cable Crew Neck Wool/Viscose BLAZER Casentino Wool Topcoat BOGLIOLI Deconstructed Wool Suit Sweater $280 | Italy $1478 | Italy BLAZER Cotton Flannel Check Shirt ETON Mini Squares Dress Shirt $208 | Canada $255 | Romania AG Matchbox 5 Pocket Denim Jean BOGLIOLI Wool Scarf $255 | USA $250 | Italy ONEXONE Wrinkled Leather Belt DION Corduroy Bow Tie $98 | Canada $110 | Canada SCOTT NICHOL Wool Socks BENCHCRAFT Stamped Faux Reptile Belt $40 | England $98 | Canada LLOYD Lambskin Lined Leather Boots LOAKE ‘Bedale’ Brogue Boot $379 | Romania $588 | England 40 $898 | Italy 41 FASHION FASHION blazer No 5 No 6 ROBERT GRAHAM McDaniels Paisley Sport Coat GIMOS Napa ¾ Length Leather Coat $898 | Jordan $2750 | Italy Circle Of Gentlemen Shirt JOHN SMEDLEY Cable Crew Merino Wool Sweater $255 | Turkey $498 | Great Britain ZEGNA Mini Check Pant $328 | Egypt CULTURATA Oxford Cotton Shirt LOAKE ‘Vincent’ Shoe PAUL & SHARK Indigo Cotton/Stretch Jean $398 | India $330 | Italy $198 | Italy CHELSEY Horizontal Stripe Merino Wool Scarf $138 | China ANDERSON Braided Leather Belt $235 | Italy GIULIO MORETTI Burnished Dress Leather Boot $450 | Italy 42 43 FASHION FASHION blazer No 8 No 7 Z ZEGNA Tech Merino Eco Down Check Parka Bugatti Gore-Tex Wool Car Coat $898 | Europe ROBERT GRAHAM Cream V-Neck Wool Sweater $1798 | Romania $278 | China Z ZEGNA Wool Cable Knit Zip Cardigan ROBERT GRAHAM Cotton Shirt $650 | Romania JOHN VARVATOS Long Sleeve Crew $98 | Peru LUIGI BIANCHI Cotton Chino $288 | Italy PAUL & SHARK Cotton Stretch Woven Belt $198 | Italy RED WING Leather Boot $290 | USA 44 $298 | India BRAX Diamond Weave 5 Pocket Cotton Pant $235 | Ukraine CHELSEY Chevron Wool Scarf $140 | Italy ONEXONE Wrinkled Leather Belt $98 | Canada LOAKE Derby Leather Shoe $398 | India 45 FASHION FASHION blazer No 9 ELEVENTY Quilted Vest $595 | Italy No 10 Z ZEGNA Melange Wool/Cotton Sport Coat MONTECORE Down Parka With Coyote Trim $1050 | Mexico Z ZEGNA Check Shirt $268 | Egypt ALBERTO Printed Satin Cotton 5 Pocket $258 | Tunisia BENCHCRAFT Suede Brogue Belt $1598 | Bulgaria ROBERTO COLLINA Alpaca Argyle Cable $478 | Italy ELEVENTY Printed Chambray Shirt $275 | Italy $148 | Canada BERWICH Glen Check Wool Pant $348 | Italy ETON Silk Knit Pocket Square CHELSEY Silk Mosaic Scarf $75 | Italy ETON Knit Silk Tie $145 | Italy $138 | China GIULIO MORETTI 2 Tone Leather Boot $428 | Italy LLOYD Chocolate Leather Chukka $299 | Romania 46 47 blazer No 11 OUTCLASS Melton wool/Leather Bomber $565 | Canada JOHN SMEDLEY Jaquard Crew Neck Merino Wool Sweater $348 | Great Britain CANALI Braided Stretch Leather Belt $230 | Italy AG “Nomad” 5 Pocket Cotton Jean $260 | Mexico RED WING Upper Tier Mock Toe 6” Leather Boot $298 | USA 48 blazer TRAVEL DAS STYLE! Berlin is the fashion world’s hidden gem. The city has the most beautifully decorated hotels, art-filled restaurants and the best shopping areas. Here’s how to visit in style. Travel not only opens the mind; it opens up the senses. And this year Randy and Gregory Lalonde trekked to Berlin to check out the fashion and trade shows, and bring back to Oakville a taste of Europe. But along their travels they discovered that the city’s style isn’t just in its fashions, but also its restaurants, hotels and culture. They wanted to share their finds (and more) with you. But you don’t need Blazer for Men to tell you to walk Berlin Wall, visit the Bauhaus Museum and grab some currywurst while you’re there. Instead, we’ll tell you what we know best about travel – the stylish way to see the world. We’ve rounded up luxury hotels, cool restaurants and notable shopping districts. 50 WHERE TO STAY “We stayed at PARK PLAZA WALLSTREET HOTEL in Mitte district,” says Randy. The hotel was clean and the staff is friendly! It’s in walking distance of the Berlin Wall, and it was the perfect central location to hit all of our stops. The hotel’s modest but modern rooms had an average rate of $150 a night. All we really look for when we travel are beds that are comfortable and clean! This was good value in Berlin.” // parkplaza.com HOTEL Q! Visually you will be blown away by the décor, art, design and architecture of this trendy and stylishly modern hotel near the Kurfürstendamm. The rooms are slick and clean, and it’s a wonderful place to return to after a long day of sightseeing and shopping. Designed by Graft-Architects, the hotel was built using earth-friendly resources. Before you head to bed, take advantage of the hotel’s cocktail bar, The Fox Bar, with a fireside drink. Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie and Jennifer Lopez have been known to stay here. // hotel-q.com TITANIC DELUXE BERLIN Get your crown ready, as you’ll feel like a king here. This five-star hotel is housed in what was formerly known as the State Opera’s warehouse. And like the other Titanic, the boat, opulence is the theme. Situated near the Gendarmenmarkt area, the 18th-century architecture blends together traditional and classic elements. The large hotel has 208 stylish rooms, a relaxing spa, and The Schinkel Bar and Beef Grill Club by Hasir restaurant. If you don’t feel like venturing far for a bit of nightlife, the cocktail bar features live music regularly. // titanic.com.tr HOTEL ZOO BERLIN With a name like Zoo, you might expect an eclectic atmosphere. And you would be right. A popular hotel with celebrities in the 1920s, Hotel Zoo was renovated by American designer Dayna Lee. The original elements of the building, like high ceilings and crown moldings, were preserved and paired it with modern elegance, like bespoke furniture and large windows. There is even 120-year-old exposed brick as part of the décor. And it’s close to Kurfürstendamm, too. The Living Room, a central part of the hotel, is a real must-see. And hang out at Grace Bar to run into Berlin’s who’s-who. // hotelzoo.de 51 blazer TRAVEL WHERE TO EAT “One of the finest restaurants in Berlin is at the WALDORF ASTORIA HOTEL”, says Gregory. “LES SOLISTES is – hands down! – the best fivecourse meal we’ve ever experienced,” says Randy, of their meal at the Waldorf Astoria Berlin restaurant, ran by Chef Pierre Gagnaire. “I can’t even tell you what we had, but it was fantastic! Of course the appropriate wine pairing with each course didn’t take away from the flavours of the food. My taste buds enjoyed a whole new gamut of excitement. And, it was there that I discovered my new favourite German red wine – a pinot noir called Rudolf Fürst Spätburgunder 2008 Vintage.” // pierre-gagnaire.com CAFÉ EINSTEIN This oak-paneled villa restaurant is dimly lit and cozy with its plush chairs. And the bar is well stocked with more than 700 types of rum and gin. No wonder its clientele consists of artists, politicians, the like. And part of the movie “Inglorious Basterds” was filmed here. The restaurant bakes its own bread and roasts its own coffee. With this kind of attention to detail, it has to be good. // cafeeinstein.com DÓTTIR This is the place to eat if you love seafood. The Nordic-inspired menu lists bright and pretty dishes using local ingredients. The décor is minimalist, which pleasantly contrasts the food. But the chef plays with flavour and texture that are sure to excite your palate. Reservations are recommended. // dottirberlin.com REINSTOFF If you’re going to treat yourself to at least one upscale meal in Berlin, then make sure this Michelin-star restaurant is on your list. Located in a former light bulb factory you will be treated to the dark, warm, roomy and relaxing ambiance. Chef Daniel Achilles was awarded Chef of the Year 2014 by Gault&Millau, and his menu is described to be purely German. You’ll find many of the dishes to have a cosmopolitan feel and often include seasonal vegetables. // reinstoff.eu 52 WHAT TO DO WHAT WE SAW KURFÜRSTENDAMM Affectionately known as “Kudamm” by the locals and visitors in the know, this is the area to walk and take in the sights. The three-and-a-half kilometre route will lead you from Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church to the Rathenauplatz in Grunewald. As you stroll, pop into the boutiques and stores, and grab yourself an espresso from one of the cafés. Be sure to check out the Marble House, which was built in 1913, and the Kranzlereck, which opened in 2001. To stock Blazer for Men with the world’s best-made and unique-to-you fashions, Randy and Gregory travel the world. Berlin has been a highlight for 2015. Here’s what they saw in the stylish city. MITTE This district is a must-see because of the architecture. So map out Bellevue Palace, the Philharmonic Hall, the Chamber Music Hall, the State Library, Museum Island, Gendarmenmarkt and Potsdamer Platz for your visit. At Potsdamer Platz, enjoy the old and new architecture, as well as the monument to the murdered Jews in Europe. Mitte also has a huge art scene, with about 400 galleries, including Berlin Museum. And there is also the Philharmonic Hall, which hosts one of the best orchestras in the world. Be sure to go shopping at Unter den Linden, Quartier 206 department store, the Potsdamer Platz arcades, the restored Galeria Kaufhof, and the Alexa and Die Mitte shopping centres. PREMIUM EXHIBITIONS “Quality over quantity.” That’s this show’s motto, which constantly curates collections from around the world in a beautifully designed space. And just as its name suggests, premium fashions are presented. Over the past 10 years, this show has anchored Berlin as one of the most creative fashion centres in the world. In 2010, Premium was awarded the Order of Merit of the State of Berlin. SEEK As one of Berlin’s most progressive and contemporary shows, it features more than 200 fashion brands. Seek is known to “seek” out new labels as well as some of our old favourites. These fashions are selected because they were created by independent producers and with the highest quality. BREAD & BUTTER This show focuses on the modern and urban lifestyle with brands and pieces that are meant to inspire, invigorate and energize the wardrobe. It was once one of the world’s most renowned fashion shows, but recently is going through a complete rebuild. PANORAMA BERLIN This new show – just two years under its belt – is one of the top in the trade. It has grown in size and in venue because of its success in featuring a contemporary collection of fashion, footwear and accessories by the world’s leading brands. WHAT TO PACK Berliners are casually stylish with a reserved sense of taste. They take daywear to the next level with well-fitting pants, shirts and jackets that are accessorized to perfection. To look like one of the locals, consider leather loafers, boots or trendy sneaks, cuffed pants or jeans and a sports jacket paired a hat or scarf and a backpack. 53 www.sandcopenhagen.com blazer FACTOIDS DID YOU KNOW? FASHION EDITION Welcome to our fact-filled pages, but this year we decided to do things a bit differently and focus on our favourite topic: 5. … what High Performance is? You might think high-performance textiles are something used only by athletic wear and golf brands. But they are also used in contemporary fashion. The fabric is made by using fine, hightwist yarns made from cotton, viscose, bamboo, polyester, acrylic, nylon and elastane, which give the fabric high resistance, resiliency, and moves with its wearer. It can also be processed and coated for functional finishes to regulate body temperature, wick moisture, resist water and to be antibacterial. It’s, obviously, a modern textile made for the modern man. And it’s influence into casual wear was influence by golf wear. luxury textiles. 1. … what Micron is? Micron may sounds like a 007 weapon, but it’s actually a fashion term used to measure the fibre diametre of wool. Simply explained: One micron equals one millionth of a metre. It’s also used to measure optical fibres, as well. A strand of hair from your head is said to be about 50 microns wide. With that as a guide, the lower the number the finer the fabric. 2. … what Worsted is? Worsted was reportedly created in the Middle Ages, when settlers came to Worstead in Norfolk, England and set up shop as weavers and spinners. They created this fabric because of the sheep’s fur available in the area, which was long wool that was gilled and combed. It looks different from your woolly sweater, and that’s because the knit is tight with no space between the fibres. It also has a somewhat 56 shinier finish that you might expect from wool, thanks to the combing and tight knit. Nowadays, worsted wool is a costly fabric because of the resources required to produce the wool. So you’ll also find worsted fabrics that aren’t made from wool, but is a much lighter and more breathable fabric. 3. … what Serge is? Serge is a very old fabric-making process, and it’s been dated back to the eighth century with the French and the Greeks. The names refers to silk. It was produced with wool in the early renaissance in Florence, Italy. The look of serge is smooth with a diagonal rib on both sides of the fabric, and it offers a stretch across the grain. And you’ll find that it’s made with wool-blends, such as cotton, silk and rayon, and it comes in varying fabric weights. Your navy suit is likely serge. And it’s also used for jackets and trench coats, too. 4. … what Vicuna is? If you’ve ever wondered why a suit or jacket was the price it was, it was likely made of vicuna. It’s the most luxurious fabric a man can wear. And it’s made from the beige wool of rare and wild vicuna goats from the South America Andes. It’s not often dyed, but you can find vicuna wool pieces in navy. Zegna makes suits in three variations of this dark-blue worsted wool. It’s very soft, very fine, warm and beautiful. To own a vicuna garment is like owning a Rolex. 6. … what Saxony is? On a map, Saxony is a town in Germany. But on the label of your jacket, saxony means a soft, pliable, lightly napped wool or worsted high-quality fabric that has a clear concise finish. The original saxony was made from the wool from the sheep raised in, you guessed it, Saxony. The sheep, though, are part of the genetic line of merino sheep, so you may feel a similarity between saxony and merino wools. This medium-weight fabric is soft, fine and can be made with a bit of stretch. Since the wool is short, the smooth weave conceals the length. Thanks to the attractive draping, it’s often used in suits, sports jackets and scarves. 7. … what Donegal is? This tweed fabric treatment, typically made with wool or cotton, is named after a county in Ireland of the same name. With that in mind you can know that it’s not a thin and wispy fabric, but something warmer and more durable. The medium- to heavy-weight fabric’s appeal comes from the rough, contrasting-hued “neps” or “slubs” that are woven into the fabric. It’s often used on suits and winter coats, although nowadays you may also see it on hats and scarves. 8. … what Glen Plaid is? Glen plaid originally comes from the Glenurquhart, Scotland when it was created in the 19th century. It’s also called the Prince of Wales check, since it was often worn by Prince of Wales Sir Edward VIII. Despite its rich fashionable history, the pattern-mixing is a very wearable and sophisticated look for today. Often it’s used with neutral tones, like black and white. It’s a hound’s-tooth weave of various thicknesses done in cross-hatched pattern. It’s a perfect jacket look. 9. … what Gabardine is? Tightly woven with a twill surface, gabardine is weave with diagonal ribbing. It was used by pilgrims in the Middle Ages to be worn in the wind and rain. However, Although the weave was intended to be made with wool, it’s also made with cotton, silk and rayon blends. And it’s still used in rainwear, such as trench coats, but it is also used in suits, pants, shirts and light coats. In fact, it’s the faved fabric of fashion designer Thomas Burberry in the late 19th century. It was named after the long, loose “gabardine” overcoat. 10. … what Bemberg Silk is? Last but not least, bemberg silk is the lining of your jacket, which is made from cupro rayon. Bemberg silk is a less costly, and versatile, substitute for natural silk. It was the 1920s when German company J.P. Bemberg set up shop in Tennessee to become the main producer of rayon, known as “artificial silk.” This fabric may be hidden inside your jacket, but it’s still a very expressive way to dress and embrace trends. Many suit makers include bright, opulent patterns bemberg linings. And in made-to-measure, the bemberg is so important that you get to choose the colour and pattern, just as you would the outer fabric. 57 DION ST YLE • QUALITY • SER VICE w w w. d i o n n e c k we a r. co m blazer TRAVEL Saluti, Prost! Finding yourself in Milan or Berlin? Here are Blazer For Men’s recommendations on what to order from the drink menu. O ther than a Manhattan, not many drinks are linked to major cities. And, especially in Europe, farming regions lay the claim to different types of wines, liqueurs, spirits, aperitifs or digestifs. It’s like saying you must order a blah-blah-blah when you visit Oakville. It’s just not common. But Milan and Berlin are different. Their richly cultured background and nightlife is the perfect backdrop for creating signature alcoholic beverages. And we’ve got three drinks you should order when visiting these stylish urban centres that should get you through the evening. When in Berlin Toasting a few lagers is a cultured and classy activity in Berlin, mostly because When in Milan the city offers dimly lit lounge-like bars with sofas for you to enjoy a craft beer. But don’t You could not go to Italy without are choosey about their ales, their favourite bottle of wine with dinner, but liqueurs and spirits are just later for dopo cena (after dinner), there’s as refined. no reason not to enjoy a few local cocktails in the city. CAMPARI RABARBARO ZUCCA AMARO SBAGLIATO A Milan favourite since it’s produced there, too, since the 1800s. The bitter liquor’s recipe is a long-kept secret but we do know that it is made from the tangy cinchona bark infused with herbs and fruit. You can enjoy it straight with ice for sipping and to open up your palette. But you can also have it with soda and orange slice. It’s popularly enjoyed as a Negroni. A branded amaro that was created in Milan in 1845 by Ettore Zucca. It was a royalty favourite and was used to woo the court. It’s a smoky and dark liquor that hints flavours of char, mint and rhubarb. If you can, head to the bar Zucca near the Duomo and order a glass on ice. A mixed cocktail with a taled history in Milan. Word on the street is that a bartender at Bar Brasso was making a negroni when he accidentally reached for the prosecco instead of gin. It was a hit and called negroni sbagliato and added to the drink menu. You can make it yourself with equal parts prosecco, red vermouth and bitters and enjoy it before dinner or at brunch. 60 discount the cocktails. Just as Berliners exploring the country’s vino. Enjoy your BERLINER KINDL WEISSE MICHELBERGER BOOZE A top-rated beer that is produced in Berlin. The beer was first produced in 1872 and it was a bottom-fermented Pilsner. You can order a pint of course, but many Berliners favour adding a sweet syrup. Just ask the bartender what flavour add-ons the pub has. are two modern concoctions made by the hip Michelberger Hotel located near the Oberbaum Bridge. But the recipes may be as old as the 140-year-old distillery where they are produced. They are herbal schnapps that you can taste cinnamon, vanilla and clove with Michelberger Forest, or peppermint, fennel and lemon balm with Michelberger Mountain. Enjoy a glass over ice at the hotel bar or order a bottle from the hotel as a souvenir. PREUSSISCHER is a whisky produced just outside of Berlin in the village of Schönermark. The 160-year-old distillery produces small batches of single-malt whisky. The nose is fruity with hints of wood, but the taste and finish is spicy, peppery and long. Add water and it becomes a dry whisky. 61 Since 1997 Glazier Opticians has evolved into an award winning service through one simple philosophy: Quality. Paul and Claudia Glazier, both registered opticians, have embraced this philosophy which has led to a prosperous referral based business. We are doctor recommended in a highly competitive optical market and will continue to serve our customers in a professional and progressive manner. We invite clients to experience our vast collections, including exclusive European eyewear. Our caring and knowledgeable staff makes Glazier stand out amongst opticians. 1011 UPPER MIDDLE RD E • OAKVILLE, ON • 905.845.7007 • GLAZIEROPTICIANS.COM blazer SMART CAR You know Mercedes-Benz stands for luxury, and it’s a form of armor that defines the way you have built your life. It is to the car industry, what made-to-measure is to fashion. But here are a few things you may not know about the iconic brand. Sit back and enjoy the ride. 10 THINGS 1. It was 1936 when Mercedes-Benz revolutionized the auto industry, and many of those impacts we still see today. The car company created the first dieselpowered engine, which has influenced even the design of the car you have in your driveway, even if it’s not a Benz. 5. For $795 you can take a winter driving course with one-on-one training for handling in the cold-weather conditions. In the one-day course, the instructors will take you through driving exercises to show proper steering, vision and vehicle control, as well as shortening stopping distances on slippery roads, maintaining traction through all conditions, proper use of ABS, ESP (stability or skid control programs) and proper execution of emergency maneuvers, such as slalom (with and without ESP), braking, skid control (understeer and oversteer) and high-speed emergency lane changes. 2. Mercedes-Benz has an entourage of workers that build and create each of the cars – from C to T classes. In fact, the auto company employs one inspector for every 11 workers to meticulously critique every stage of the building process. Talk about maintenance. 3. The founding partners of Mercedes were Gottlieb Daimler and Wilhelm Maybach, and they named their company after Wilhelm’s daughter Mercédès. The Benz part of the name was later added when their company merged with Benz and Cie in 1926. 4. The logo has evolved over the years, but the three-pointed star you know and love is the most memorable. And the symbolism of each point represents Mercedes-Benz’s domination of the land, the sea and air. The company also has made vans, trucks, busses as well as motorcycles, bicycles and race cars. 6. Have you heard of the G-Class Papamobil? It’s Mercedes-Benz car made for the pope, which was first used for Pope John Paul II in 1980. The Prada-wearing Pope Francis would likely have his own stylish upgrades for his ride. 7. It might be worth all those people working on and critiquing your MercedesBenz. According to a Reuters report last year, the company was found to have the lowest rate of vehicle recalls. 8. Mercedes-Benz USA CEO Steve Cannon was a former U.S. Army Ranger and holds a record for doing 133 pushups in two minutes at West Point, where he headed Mercedes-Benz. 9. The Mercedes-Benz Silver Arrow is an icon to be sure. But it wasn’t an intentional car creation. It was 1934 when a W5 didn’t meet the weight regulations for a race. Instead of hanging their heads low, the Mercedes-Benz mechanics got car race-ready by scraping off the paint and putty from the body. Not only did the car meet the requirements, that day it held a historic win! 10. So what do the letter classes mean with Mercedes-Benz models? This handy little chart will tell you: C Coupe or cabriolet, and may also be offered as a sedan D Diesel engine E Einspritzung with petrol fuel injection G Geländewagen off-road K Kompressor supercharger engine L Leicht for lightweight for sports cars, or Lang for sedans R Rennen racing car S Sonderklasse is a special class flagship model The new 2016 GLE Coupe. Make the best of every ground. T Touring station wagon © 2016 Mercedes-Benz Canada Inc. Mercedes-Benz Oakville 64 300 South Service Road West, Oakville, ON L6K 3X5 | 1-888-839-2240 | www.m-boakville.ca Mercedes-Benz Star Dealer of the Year 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015. Fashion meets functionality Bring style home We take the time to do it right Luxury products and services for all your floor covering needs. CARPE T | AREA RUGS | TILE & STONE | HARDWOOD | LAMINATE | RESILIENT SPEERS ROAD BROADLOOM 400 Speers Rd., Oakville, ON L6K 2G2 (289) 218-7376 speersroadbroadloom.com blazer FACTOIDS there’s an app for that Trends aren’t just in fashion; they’re also in tech, social media and express how we behave. Here’s what you need to know about the latest app trends. With more than 1.5 million apps available on the Apple App Store (and 1.6 on Google Play Store), there’s no wonder there’s an app for literally everything. You can download one to help you order wine, fund startups, buy real estate, find a date and literally millions of other ways to make your life easier, work faster and have fun. According to research from Nielson, men have on average 27 apps on their devices, spending almost 41 hours a month using them. That’s almost a full week of work (if you leave at five). But apps also connect us through social media, like Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. Here are the top trends for social media apps. 1. Social media apps are ageist. According to “Entrepreneur Magazine” not all apps are equal, and it’s not just the youngins that are getting attention on social media. Facebook is said to be an older demographic, with younger groups engaged on Instagram Twitter and Tumblr. 68 2. Social media will be completely searchable. /blazerformen 4. I t’s all about news bites and “snackable” content. Ain’t nobody got time for that – long-form content on social media. The need for short, digestible information has the need for what “The Guardian” calls “snackable” content that’s sharable and intriguing. “The more snackable a brand makes its content, the more social it will be. Easy to understand means easy to share, which translates into better results for content and campaigns.” 5. Even your feeds need a filter. Hashtags have made social media searchable, but unless you know the exact wording and spelling of a specific hashtag, it can be tough to find the results you’re wanting. SEO has expanded into YouTube, Facebook, Yelp, Pinterest and others. Feeds on all social media apps are curated by the user. It reflects their interests. Instead of a “newspaper” way of approaching content, and specializing in targeted messaging that reaches a specific audience is key. According to “Marketing” in the U.K.: “People will hear only what they want to hear, filtering out the rest.” So instead of reading everything, we’re editing down our sources of information. And even newspapers are becoming more targeted online, such as focusing on a community or city, political beat and more. 3. Apps are the new catalogue. Tagged “Scommerce” by emarsys.com, the fusion of social media and commerce has evolved online and mobile interaction beyond baby pics and status updates. By connecting brands with shoppers, we can now see what’s available in store now. Just check out Blazer for Men on Instagram (blazerformen), to get the lookbook images, new stock announcements, behind-the-scenes from shoots and display merchandising, buying trips abroad and so much more. This movement from brick and mortar into the digital world brings together consumer engagement and building relationships with staff and you. check out blazer for men on instagram 6. Women like shopping; men are into finance Men have on average 27 apps on their phone. It sounds like a bad stereotype, but research from the 2015 Liftoff Mobile App Engagement Index says it’s true. Women are more likely to make a purchase on a social media app, where as men are downloading more financial apps. 69 blazer FACTOIDS Instagram TOP APPS RIGHT NOW You’d have to be living under a social media rock to not know what Instagram is. The picture- and video-sharing app (which can link to Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr and more) is one of the most populated apps out there – more than 400 million have the app on their phone, tablet or other device. Brands, like Blazer for Men (blazerformen on Intagram), use the app to give insight into new stock, happening events and insider info about their team and products. But this isn’t it. Instagram Inc. also has three other apps you should know about. Snapchat Want a peak behind the scenes of the latest 007 movie, the MLS playoffs or even an insight into the Buzzfeed offices. Sorry, that raw footage has disappeared. They all, and a ton of other brands have posted on Snapchat, one of the buzziest social media platforms of recent. The deal is that the posted video or pictures can only be seen for 24-hours and then it’s gone. And the search function only shows the specific handle, so if you want to find someone, you’ll have to know his or her exact avatar name. Although sexting teens were the reported original users of the app, it now is used to announce launches, behind-thescenes and live-streaming content. Snapchat Inc. does warn that any of your followers can take a screenshot – proving, once again, that everything lives forever on the Internet. Whisper Shhhhh… this free app is all about anonymity. And unlike other social media that tries to make 15-minute celebrities out of its users, this app is more about peaking in on others posts and texts. Developer WhisperText LLC says that it’s where people can express themselves with “like-minded individuals” and learn about “the unseen world around them.” What the heck does that mean? Well, you can search posts based on topics and location. And if you want to keep an eye out on your teens, you can read all about the secret posts about their school. The question is, though, is that your kid? FAD Fashion fans may already have this one downloaded. FAD, tagged “The Ultimate Fashion Dictionary,” is a style resource with more than 1,300 design, fabric and sewing definitions, designer names, and more, loaded in the app. It’s like having your favourite knowledgeable Blazer for Men sales staff in your pocket. HYPERLAPSE Vibbidi Remember Vine? Neither do we. The latest video apps have taken your cell flicks to the next level. And one of those is Vibbidi, a growingly popular app that let’s you edit your videos. Move over Guy Ritchie, there’s a new director in town and it’s you! By Glue-th, Inc., the makers of the app simplified the process of editing vids so that anyone can have silverscreen quality moving pictures with tools that add filters, manipulates speed (think Baywatch slow to Wes Anderson fast), add music and more. Necktie Deluxe Does the wife tie your ties? Well, what do you do when she’s not around? Download Necktie Deluxe. This easy-to-follow app will explain the how-tos of the knot you want, including the Cavendish, the Batlhus and the always-unwieldy bow tie. And you can up our tie game with its tips for caring and story your neckties. is a four-year-old oldie but goodie from Instagram. It essentially speeds up a video so that you can squeeze in more than that 15-second window, by changing the actual time to 1x to 12x the speed. Tape your morning run, your kitchen reno, or your toddler playing in the park for a laugh. BOOMERANG is Instagram’s latest app. Unlike the looping video option on the Instagram app, this app allows you to manipulate movement in the video by making it go in reverse. Imagine: falling up, unripping your shirt or sucking back a handful of confetti. It’ll be perfect for taping the kids unwrap their presents on Christmas morning. It’s automatic, so you don’t have to do anything except hit the round dot on your screen. Beardify Want to see what you’d look like with a beard, mustache, goatee or a five-o’clock shadow before you commit to growing your facial hair? Beardify helps you avoid the itch with an instant pic of you with different styles of facial hair. “The more snackable a brand makes its content, the more social it will be.” 70 LAYOUT allows you to combine multiple pictures into one post with a layout. In addition to creating a collage, you can also mirror images by using the same picture twice and flipping one. You simply drag and drop your photos in the layout to your liking, adjusting the size, and from there, you have complete artistic control. Drag and drop photos to rearrange them, pinch to zoom or pull the sides of each photo to adjust its size and get your layout just right. Then flip and rotate your photos to create cool arrangements and mirror effects. 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