The watch is flat

FAZ Nr. 64 from 03.17.2015, “Technology and Automobiles”, page T4
The watch is flat
The next sensation from NOMOS Glashütte: DUW 3001–a flat, precise,
and affordable automatic movement. It is debuting in Tangente and in the
new watch Minimatik. By Monika Schramm L
ast year’s NOMOS swing system
was the first strike, but the second
is already on its way–at Baselworld, the world’s largest watch and
jewelery show starting tomorrow,
NOMOS Glashütte is presenting an entirely new automatic caliber that is in
many ways a stroke of genius; a flat and
precise caliber, which is ready for series
production and therefore affordable. This
combination of characteristics is unique,
since until now movements were either
chunky and cheap or less precise, or flat
but expensive since they were not suitable for series production. It is also important to know that, aside from a small
number of handcrafted calibers, almost all
automatic watches are powered by movement designs that are over 40 years old.
Around 7 million of these are produced
in countless versions every year, which
are adapted, further developed with modular design, decorated and polished. And
they all come–with the exception of Rolex–from the Swiss-based Eta or companies like Sellita, which replicate calibers
for which the rights have expired. The
most renowned is the chronograph caliber
7750 Valjoux, which is also used by many
expensive watchmaking companies. The
true significance of the automatic
movements reveals itself in the
fact that around 90 percent of
all mechanical watches are
powered by a rotor.
The new caliber DUW 3001,
at only 3.2 millimeters high and
28.8 millimeters wide (DUW stands
for NOMOS Glashütte Deutsche
Uhrenwerke, or NOMOS Glashütte
German manufacturer of watch movements), could be compared to the VW
Golf, which replaced the Beetle after
decades: an entirely new concept, optimized with new materials and uncompromisingly following the most modern
production techniques. It celebrates its
premiere in Tangente, the first model
from NOMOS Glashütte and already a
design classic. The case is 6.9 millimeters high, only 0.3 millimeters taller than
the hand-wound version. And it will also
be found in the latest model, Minimatik,
a slender colorful women’s watch that
will also be debuting in Basel. In this
way, NOMOS Glashütte underlines the
continuity; this degree of symbolism
must be allowed.
From the first glance, the movement
reveals the difference between the old
and new layout: Almost all the parts are
built into the millimeter-wide space between the base plate and the three-quarter plate. There is no traditional balance
cock, but rather a bridge to hold the balance stable. This gives the bidirectional
winding rotor space to move unimpeded
around the caliber and so wind the balance spring. Equally noticeable is that
even the ratchet wheel, which winds the
balance spring, must be accommodated
under the three-quarter plate. But it could
only be half as thick as before. In order to
ensure that this paper-thin wheel is close
to frictionless, it was produced from a
special new material that is easy to mold
and particularly to harden. Furthermore,
it also had to be produced even more precisely–which incidentally applies to all
parts in this tight construction space: “We
were able to halve the usual tolerances,”
explains Theodor Prenzel proudly. He
is the brains behind the new movement,
into which the research and development
department has invested 1.5 million minutes (or three years) and the partners 2.5
million euros. The narrow tolerances are
not only significant for the movement’s
height, but also because the desired accuracy of the movement is inevitably an
almost direct result of the precision of
the parts. Internal laboratory testing has
confirmed DUW 3001 to be chronometer-standard straight away. This makes it
easier and faster to assemble.
The years of research into the NOMOS
swing system–a watch’s pacesetter–and
Automatically elegant: Tangente and Minimatik
A new standard:
the new 3.2-millimeter flat caliber
DUW 3001. In the foreground, the
balance bridge over the NOMOS
swing system Photos from the producer.
the gear train–which is to say, the cogs and is adjusted in six positions. And it weighs
pinions to transfer energy in a movement– almost as little as the NOMOS in-house
paid out in the optimization of these parts hand-wound movement with only 100
for the new caliber. A flatter mainspring parts. The designers have also developed
also had to be developed, which would a new watch for the new movement:
have enough winding power despite re- Minimatik with its slender bezel and dial
duced material usage. By positioning and design is unmistakably NOMOS, and
angling, as well as adjusting the number with a case diameter of just 36 millimeof teeth, the design engineers were able ters, more suitable for women. Its 8.9to increase the efficiency of the move- millimeter height comes from the curved
ment by 10 to 94 percent. A type of brake sapphire crystal glass, which stretches
reduces wear on the rotor: The increasing over the white silver-plated dial with
resistance from the mainspring stops it pearled indexes, large blue numbers and
moving when the fully wound caliber red hands. A sub-seconds dial is located
has enough energy–preventing the rotor above the 6, while the red inscription
from swinging constantly. The floun- “Automatik” refers to the new movement.
der has a 42-hour power reserve. This can be admired through the sapDUW 3001 is comprised of 157 phire crystal glass back. The stainless
parts, including 27 jewels, which steel case is water-resistant to 30 meters.
naturally present the typical Minimatik with a black leather strap will
Glashütte characteristics: Aside be available with retailers after summer,
from the three-quarter plate, the at a price of 2,800 euros. This NOMOS
blued screws, the Glashütte ribbing, timepiece is an elegant counter-argument
it also has shock protection and to the claim from a Swiss watch expert
that no automatic watches with improved accuracy could be made for less than
4,000 euros. In fact, the classic Tangente
model with DUW 3001 will cost only
2,600 euros. By fall, the collection will
include an automatic version for every
model family. In this way the Glashütte
watchmaking company, which is already
market leader for hand-wound watches,
aims to acquire a significant stake in the
much larger market for automatic watches.
From the start of production, the manufacturing capacity is set to be six figure–a
further step towards independence from
Eta, which has now limited its supplies.
The owner-operated company is able and
willing to supply third parties too. Jewelers with customers who may be interested in a unique high-tech caliber, Made in
Germany, will win new NOMOS fans to
add to the brand’s current fan base. And
since time is relative, we dare to make
a prediction: This was the second strike,
but the third is already on its way.
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