Dating Old Photographs
Transcription
Dating Old Photographs
Dating Old Photographs Linda Carlson Retired Museum Curator & CSU Instructor Historic Costume Changes in Appearance 1850-1945 General Appearance of Women Crinoline & bustle periods, 1850-1890 1850s-1860s – “Gone with the Wind” silhouette Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 237. Ashelford, J. (1996). The Art of dress: clothes and society 1500-1914. London: National Trust Enterprises Limited. P. 223. Kashmiri shawls – paisley shawls Pagoda sleeve 185 0 Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 225. Ginsburg, M., Hart, A., & Mendes, V.D. (1984). Four hundred years of fashion. London: V&A Publications. P. 38. 186 5 Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 230. 1870–90 - Stages of Bustle 1. 1870-78 – manipulated drapery, “puffy” c. 1870 Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 245. Gibbs-Smith, C.H. (1960). The Fash8ionable lady in the 19th century. London: Her Majesty’s Stationery Office. P. 127. Stages of Bustle 2. 1878-83 187 8 Martin, R. (1998). The ceaseless century: 300 years of eighteenth-century costume. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. P. 58. Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 247. Stages of Bustle 3. 1883-1890 – rigid, shelf-like silhouette Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 247. c. 1885 Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 263. General appearance of Women, 1890-1918 1890 - 1910 – Belle Époque, Gibson Girl 1910s – World War I 1909 Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 316. 1890s (Belle Époque) – 1900s mature look (Alexandria, Princess of Wales) youthful look (Gibson Girl) ready-to-wear •Skirts •Shirtwaist •Underclothing •Dresses •Jackets, capes S-curved / S-shaped silhouette •bell shaped skirts •small, tightly corseted waistline (corset thrust hips back) •low monobosom •collars increased in height, stiffened with crinoline/boning Ginsburg, M., Hart, A., & Mendes, V.D. (1984). Four hundred years of fashion. London: V&A Publications. P. 76. Sleeves •During 1890s - focus of attention diverted from skirt to sleeves – leg-of-mutton, balloon •At end of century, sleeves tight with only slight puff at top 1903 Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 339. Gibson Girl Mulvey, K. & Richards, M. (1998). Decades of beauty: The changing image of women, 1890s-1990s. New York: Checkmark Books. P. 36, 37. Sportswear Grafton, C.B. (Ed.). (1988). Gibson girl postcards. New York: Dover Publications, Inc. No. 18. c. 1890 Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. Pp. 321, 322. c. 1912 Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 273. Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 364. c. 1910 White, P. (n.d.). Poiret. New York: Clarkson N. Potter Inc. p. 26. Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 351. 1910 Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 346, 371. General appearance of Women 1910s – World War I • S-shape silhouette disappeared • Silhouette slimmer, then boxy • Bust, higher & more prominent 1915 Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 392. ________. (fall & winter 1916-1917). The “National” money-saving style book. New York: National Cloak & Suit Co. Back cover. Ashelford, J. (1996). The Art of dress: clothes and society 1500-1914. London: National Trust Enterprises Limited. P. 255. Shirtwaist ________. (fall & winter 1916-1917). The “National” money-saving style book. New York: National Cloak & Suit Co. P. 37. General appearance of Women, 1920-1929 Garçonne look Bosoms & hips were out Long, tubular look Waistlines dropped to below natural waist Skirt lengths rise to just below knee •shortest in 1927 •in late 20s, uneven hemlines McDowell, C. (1985). McDowell’s directory of twentieth century fashion. Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall Inc. p. 122. Chemise dress • One-piece • Slipped over head • Short sleeves • Long waist • Narrow belt Ginsburg, M. (1989). Les années folles de la mode 1920-1932. _______: Bracken Books. P. 47. Dolman, 1923 Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 428. Hair & hats Cloche “bobbed” hair Ginsburg, M. (1989). Les années folles de la mode 1920-1932. _______: Bracken Books. P. 99. Ginsburg, M. (1989). Les années folles de la mode 1920-1932. _______: Bracken Books. Pp. 19, 63. Blum, S. (Ed.). (1981). Everyday fashions of the twenties. New York: Dover Publications, Inc. P. 119. General appearance of Women, 1930s •Sleek, streamlined look •New silhouette followed line of figure, closely hugged waist & hips soft, flared skirt, hemline to lower calf emphasized wide shoulders BIAS suits & dress/jacket combinations shirtwaist dress Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 288. Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 317. Ginsburg, M. (1989). Les années folles de la mode 1920-1932. _______: Bracken Books. Pp. 69, 71. Pants! Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 329. Deslandres, Y. and Müller, F. (1986). Histoire de la mode au XX siècle. Paris: Somogy. P. 164. General appearance of Women, World War II Utility dress Mendes, V. and De La Haye, A. (1999). 20th century fashion. London: Thames & Hudson. P. 117. Milbank, /C.R. (1985). Couture: The great designers. New York: Stewart, Tabori & Chang, Inc. Publishers. P. 37. Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 331. Decree L-85 Restrictions: (style restrictions & rigid measurements imposed) •no double yokes (lined) •no sashes or attached hoods •limits on circumference of skirts •hemlines raised to just below the knee •collars, belts, & lapels must be small Mulvey, K. & Richards, M. (1998). Decades of beauty: The changing image of women, 1890s-1990s. New York: Checkmark Books. P. 116. Howell, G. (1976). In Vogue. New York: Schocken books. P. 110. “Rosie the Riveter” Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 330. Howell, G. (1976). In Vogue. New York: Schocken books. P. 155. General appearance of Men, 1850-1890 •Drab, shapeless •Sober •Successful industrialist Prince Albert frock coat Ashelford, J. (1996). The Art of dress: Clothes and society 15001914. London: National Trust Enterprises Limited. P. 216. Variety of jackets • smoking / lounge – decorative • cutaway – morning coat • Tuxedo (1886) Sack suit, Wilcox, R.T. (1958). The Mode of costume. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons. P. 303. 1890s Waugh, N. (1964). The Cut of men’s clothes 1600-1900. New York: Theatre Arts Books. Plate 27. Sportswear Norfolk jacket with knickerbockers Keers, P. (1987). A gentleman’s wardrobe. New York: Harmony Books. P. 38. Variety of coats Chesterfield Inverness (Sherlock Holmes) Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 233. Keers, P. (1987). A gentleman’s wardrobe. New York: Harmony Books. P. 46. General appearance of Men, 1890-1918 Sack suit – wide, blocky silhouette Jno. J. Mitchell Co. (1990). Men’s fashion illustrations from the turn of the century. New York: Dover Publications, Inc. P. 3. 1905 – cuffs began to appear on trousers Jno. J. Mitchell Co. (1990). Men’s fashion illustrations from the turn of the century. New York: Dover Publications, Inc. P. 70. Jno. J. Mitchell Co. (1990). Men’s fashion illustrations from the turn of the century. New York: Dover Publications, Inc. P. 38. 1907 – padding in shoulders began to diminish, indentation at waist ________. (fall & winter 1916-1917). The “National” money-saving style book. New York: National Cloak & Suit Co. P. 371. General appearance of Men, 1920-1929 soft shirt (collars now attached) bow tie / long tie with 4-in-hand knot Blum, S. (Ed.). (1981). Everyday fashions of the twenties. New York: Dover Publications, Inc. p. 115. Arrow shirt man Hall, L. (1992). Common threads: A Parade of American clothing. Boston: A Bulfinch Press Book, Little Brown and Company. P. 262. Jackets with natural shoulder line, unpadded Trousers – slim, cuffed, worn with belts, not suspenders Blum, S. (Ed.). (1981). Everyday fashions of the twenties. New York: Dover Publications, Inc. P. 127. Sportswear Ginsburg, M. (1989). Les années folles de la mode 19201932. _______: Bracken Books. P. 93. plus 4s Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 306. Sportswear Oxford bags Retrieved 4.10.08. www.geocities.com Outer wear Raccoon coats Retrieved 4.10.08. www.curtispublishing.com Outer wear Trench coats Keers, P. (1987). A Gentleman’s wardrobe. New York: Harmony Books. P. 50. General appearance of Men, 1930s English Drape •Double breasted •Wide, sloping shoulders •Large scale lapels •Nipped in waist •Generously full sleeves & trouser legs •Vertical folds of fabric (pleats) on back of jackets •Wide trousers, high waisted, with deep pleats, cuffs Schoefler, O.E. & Gale, W. (1973). Esquire’s encyclopedia of 20th century men’s fashions. New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company. P. 59. Sportswear Explosion of sports shirt styles •Knit polo & tennis shirts with placket necklines •Crew necked t-shirts, striped & plain •Woven India Madras plaids, Hawaiian prints Schoefler, O.E. & Gale, W. (1973). Esquire’s encyclopedia of 20th century men’s fashions. New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company. P. 79. Unmatched sports jackets & trousers •tweed / plaid jackets with plain trousers •bush jackets (multipocketed) Schoefler, O.E. & Gale, W. (1973). Esquire’s encyclopedia of 20th century men’s fashions. New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company. P. 79. General appearance of Men, World War II Decree L-85 Restrictions •Ban on trouser cuffs, pleats, & overlapping waistbands •Eliminated suits with 2 pairs of trousers, vests, & doublebreasted jackets •Narrow lapels Eisenhower jacket Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 331. 1943, Zoot suit Mendes, V. and De La Haye, A. (1999). 20th century fashion. London: Thames & Hudson. P. 123. Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 333.