Dating Old Photographs

Dating Old Photographs
Linda Carlson
Retired Museum Curator &
CSU Instructor
Historic Costume
Changes in Appearance
1850-1945
General Appearance of Women
Crinoline & bustle periods, 1850-1890
1850s-1860s – “Gone with the Wind” silhouette
Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of
fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 237.
Ashelford, J. (1996). The Art of dress:
clothes and society 1500-1914. London:
National Trust Enterprises Limited. P. 223.
Kashmiri shawls –
paisley shawls
Pagoda sleeve
185
0
Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie,
R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the
20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 225.
Ginsburg, M., Hart, A., & Mendes, V.D. (1984). Four
hundred years of fashion. London: V&A Publications. P. 38.
186
5
Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A
History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 230.
1870–90 - Stages of Bustle
1. 1870-78 – manipulated
drapery, “puffy”
c.
1870
Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.).
Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo:
Taschen. P. 245.
Gibbs-Smith, C.H. (1960). The Fash8ionable lady in the 19th
century. London: Her Majesty’s Stationery Office. P. 127.
Stages of Bustle
2. 1878-83
187
8
Martin, R. (1998). The ceaseless century: 300
years of eighteenth-century costume. New York:
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. P. 58.
Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., &
Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from the
18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P.
247.
Stages of Bustle
3. 1883-1890 – rigid, shelf-like silhouette
Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror
mirror: A Social history of fashion. New
York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P.
247.
c. 1885
Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R.
(n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th
century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 263.
General appearance of Women,
1890-1918
1890 - 1910 – Belle Époque, Gibson Girl
1910s – World War I
1909
Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A
History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 316.
1890s (Belle Époque) – 1900s
mature look (Alexandria, Princess of Wales)
youthful look (Gibson Girl)
ready-to-wear
•Skirts
•Shirtwaist
•Underclothing
•Dresses
•Jackets, capes
S-curved / S-shaped silhouette
•bell shaped skirts
•small, tightly corseted waistline
(corset thrust hips back)
•low monobosom
•collars increased in height,
stiffened with crinoline/boning
Ginsburg, M., Hart, A., & Mendes, V.D. (1984). Four hundred years of
fashion. London: V&A Publications. P. 76.
Sleeves
•During 1890s - focus of attention
diverted from skirt to sleeves –
leg-of-mutton, balloon
•At end of century, sleeves tight with
only slight puff at top
1903
Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A History from
the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 339.
Gibson Girl
Mulvey, K. & Richards, M. (1998). Decades of beauty: The changing
image of women, 1890s-1990s. New York: Checkmark Books. P. 36, 37.
Sportswear
Grafton, C.B. (Ed.). (1988). Gibson girl postcards. New York: Dover Publications,
Inc. No. 18.
c. 1890
Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A
History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. Pp. 321,
322.
c. 1912
Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion.
New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 273.
Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R.
(n.d.). Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th
century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 364.
c. 1910
White, P. (n.d.). Poiret. New York:
Clarkson N. Potter Inc. p. 26.
Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion:
A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P.
351.
1910
Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion: A
History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P. 346,
371.
General appearance of Women
1910s – World War I
• S-shape silhouette
disappeared
• Silhouette slimmer,
then boxy
• Bust, higher & more
prominent
1915
Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.). Fashion:
A History from the 18th to the 20th century. Tokyo: Taschen. P.
392.
________. (fall & winter 1916-1917). The “National” money-saving
style book. New York: National Cloak & Suit Co. Back cover.
Ashelford, J. (1996). The Art of dress:
clothes and society 1500-1914. London:
National Trust Enterprises Limited. P. 255.
Shirtwaist
________. (fall & winter 1916-1917). The “National”
money-saving style book. New York: National Cloak &
Suit Co. P. 37.
General appearance of Women,
1920-1929
Garçonne look
Bosoms & hips were out
Long, tubular look
Waistlines dropped to
below
natural waist
Skirt lengths rise to just
below knee
•shortest in 1927
•in late 20s, uneven
hemlines
McDowell, C. (1985). McDowell’s directory of twentieth century
fashion. Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall Inc. p. 122.
Chemise dress
• One-piece
• Slipped over head
• Short sleeves
• Long waist
• Narrow belt
Ginsburg, M. (1989). Les années folles de la mode 1920-1932.
_______: Bracken Books. P. 47.
Dolman,
1923
Fukai, A., Suih, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nie, R. (n.d.).
Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century.
Tokyo: Taschen. P. 428.
Hair & hats
Cloche
“bobbed” hair
Ginsburg, M. (1989). Les années folles de la mode 1920-1932.
_______: Bracken Books. P. 99.
Ginsburg, M. (1989). Les années folles de la mode
1920-1932. _______: Bracken Books. Pp. 19, 63.
Blum, S. (Ed.). (1981). Everyday fashions of the
twenties. New York: Dover Publications, Inc. P. 119.
General appearance of Women, 1930s
•Sleek, streamlined look
•New silhouette followed line of figure,
closely hugged waist & hips
soft, flared skirt, hemline to lower calf
emphasized wide shoulders
BIAS
suits & dress/jacket combinations
shirtwaist dress
Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A
Social history of fashion. New York: Holt,
Rinehart and Winston. P. 288.
Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 317.
Ginsburg, M. (1989). Les années folles de la mode 1920-1932. _______:
Bracken Books. Pp. 69, 71.
Pants!
Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of
fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 329.
Deslandres, Y. and Müller, F. (1986). Histoire
de la mode au XX siècle. Paris: Somogy. P.
164.
General appearance of Women, World War II
Utility dress
Mendes, V. and De La Haye, A. (1999). 20th century fashion. London:
Thames & Hudson. P. 117.
Milbank, /C.R. (1985). Couture: The great
designers. New York: Stewart, Tabori &
Chang, Inc. Publishers. P. 37.
Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror
mirror: A Social history of fashion. New
York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P.
331.
Decree L-85 Restrictions:
(style restrictions & rigid
measurements imposed)
•no double yokes (lined)
•no sashes or attached hoods
•limits on circumference of skirts
•hemlines raised to just below
the knee
•collars, belts, & lapels must be
small
Mulvey, K. & Richards, M. (1998). Decades of beauty: The
changing image of women, 1890s-1990s. New York:
Checkmark Books. P. 116.
Howell, G. (1976). In Vogue. New
York: Schocken books. P. 110.
“Rosie the Riveter”
Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social
history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and
Winston. P. 330.
Howell, G. (1976). In Vogue. New
York: Schocken books. P. 155.
General appearance of Men,
1850-1890
•Drab, shapeless
•Sober
•Successful industrialist
Prince Albert frock coat
Ashelford, J. (1996). The Art of dress: Clothes and society 15001914. London: National Trust Enterprises Limited. P. 216.
Variety of jackets
• smoking / lounge
– decorative
• cutaway –
morning coat
• Tuxedo (1886)
Sack suit,
Wilcox, R.T. (1958). The Mode of
costume. New York: Charles
Scribner’s Sons. P. 303.
1890s
Waugh, N. (1964). The Cut of men’s clothes
1600-1900. New York: Theatre Arts Books.
Plate 27.
Sportswear
Norfolk jacket with
knickerbockers
Keers, P. (1987). A gentleman’s wardrobe. New York:
Harmony Books. P. 38.
Variety of coats
Chesterfield
Inverness (Sherlock Holmes)
Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history
of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 233.
Keers, P. (1987). A gentleman’s wardrobe. New
York: Harmony Books. P. 46.
General appearance of Men,
1890-1918
Sack suit –
wide, blocky silhouette
Jno. J. Mitchell Co. (1990). Men’s fashion illustrations from
the turn of the century. New York: Dover Publications, Inc. P.
3.
1905 – cuffs began to
appear
on trousers
Jno. J. Mitchell Co. (1990). Men’s fashion illustrations from the
turn of the century. New York: Dover Publications, Inc. P. 70.
Jno. J. Mitchell Co. (1990). Men’s fashion illustrations from the
turn of the century. New York: Dover Publications, Inc. P. 38.
1907 – padding in
shoulders began to
diminish, indentation at
waist
________. (fall & winter 1916-1917). The “National” money-saving
style book. New York: National Cloak & Suit Co. P. 371.
General appearance of Men,
1920-1929
soft shirt (collars now
attached)
bow tie / long tie with
4-in-hand knot
Blum, S. (Ed.). (1981). Everyday fashions of the twenties. New York:
Dover Publications, Inc. p. 115.
Arrow shirt man
Hall, L. (1992). Common threads: A Parade of
American clothing. Boston: A Bulfinch Press
Book, Little Brown and Company. P. 262.
Jackets with natural
shoulder line, unpadded
Trousers – slim, cuffed, worn
with belts, not suspenders
Blum, S. (Ed.). (1981). Everyday fashions of the twenties. New
York: Dover Publications, Inc. P. 127.
Sportswear
Ginsburg, M. (1989). Les années folles de la mode 19201932. _______: Bracken Books. P. 93.
plus 4s
Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A
Social history of fashion. New York: Holt,
Rinehart and Winston. P. 306.
Sportswear
Oxford bags
Retrieved 4.10.08. www.geocities.com
Outer wear
Raccoon coats
Retrieved 4.10.08. www.curtispublishing.com
Outer wear
Trench coats
Keers, P. (1987). A Gentleman’s wardrobe. New York:
Harmony Books. P. 50.
General appearance of Men,
1930s
English Drape
•Double breasted
•Wide, sloping shoulders
•Large scale lapels
•Nipped in waist
•Generously full sleeves &
trouser legs
•Vertical folds of fabric (pleats)
on back of jackets
•Wide trousers, high waisted,
with deep pleats, cuffs
Schoefler, O.E. & Gale, W. (1973). Esquire’s encyclopedia
of 20th century men’s fashions. New York: McGraw-Hill
Book Company. P. 59.
Sportswear
Explosion of sports shirt styles
•Knit polo & tennis shirts with
placket necklines
•Crew necked t-shirts, striped
& plain
•Woven India Madras plaids,
Hawaiian prints
Schoefler, O.E. & Gale, W. (1973). Esquire’s
encyclopedia of 20th century men’s fashions. New
York: McGraw-Hill Book Company. P. 79.
Unmatched sports jackets &
trousers
•tweed / plaid jackets
with plain trousers
•bush jackets (multipocketed)
Schoefler, O.E. & Gale, W. (1973). Esquire’s
encyclopedia of 20th century men’s fashions.
New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company. P. 79.
General appearance of Men,
World War II
Decree L-85 Restrictions
•Ban on trouser cuffs, pleats, &
overlapping waistbands
•Eliminated suits with 2 pairs of
trousers, vests, & doublebreasted jackets
•Narrow lapels
Eisenhower jacket
Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A Social history of
fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston. P. 331.
1943, Zoot suit
Mendes, V. and De La Haye, A. (1999).
20th century fashion. London: Thames
& Hudson. P. 123.
Batterberry, M. & A. (1977). Mirror mirror: A
Social history of fashion. New York: Holt,
Rinehart and Winston. P. 333.