from Burgundy - le site pro du tourisme en Bourgogne

Comments

Transcription

from Burgundy - le site pro du tourisme en Bourgogne
from Burgundy
Press Kit
Why
a travel
journal?
It’s an idea that just came to us one day.
At Bourgogne Tourisme we were exploring how to create a sort
of intimate ‘dear diary,’ a guide written by a woman who travels
all across Burgundy following the advice of Véronique, in charge
of media relations. So let’s hit the road and learn about the Burgundy she discovered.
I really didn’t know much of anything about Burgundy. Not much more than a few cliches:
mustard, wine and some of the cities like Dijon, Auxerre and Beaune. Really nothing all
that concrete, you know? So when Paul suggested that we take a little spin there, I didn’t
need convincing. So much so that Véronique would still helping me plan the trip.
This is a perfect opportunity to be guided by local experts. They gave me the addresses of
their favorite places and hidden finds. And I can certainly tell you this:
This trip absolutely rocks! Everything is gorgeous and accessible.
We’re discovering a multitude of breathtaking cities rich in cultural,
historical and natural character. But we reach city limits in no time at
all and then also tumble into the countryside and its vineyards.
Burgundy is,
in all respects,
as good as
its reputation!
We are being completely pampered by our hosts. It’s been an
immense treat to share everything with them. After all, Burgundians
are completely crazy about beautiful things and simply love life. In Burgundy, the best
time is mealtime, with a glass of fine wine near at hand!
Burgundy is a truly amazing place. That’s why I’m using my personal notes to relive our travels
through the vineyards, the countryside, along the canals and in the art- and history-filled cities
and villages.
As they say in Burgundy:
Bon voyage !
2
3
CONTENTS
WINE TOURISM I Terroir Superstar
7
MEALTIME I Seeing Stars in Burgundy
13
HERITAGE I A Land Blessed by the Gods
19
BURGUNDY BY BOAT I On the Waterways
25
BURGUNDY BY BIKE I Freewheeling31
ADRENALINE I Natural Energy
37
ZEN ATTITUDE I Unbutton in Burgundy
42
PUTTING GREEN I Burgundy: Where Golf Is Natural
44
LUXURY ACCOMMODATION I Simply Sumptuous
46
GLAM’CHIC I Glamor and No Fuss
50
UNCONVENTIONAL ACCOMMODATION I
Hidden Retreats for Nature Lovers
54
UNFORGETTABLE EVENTS
59
All Roads Lead to... Burgundy 64
Contacts66
4
5
WINE TOURISM
Terroir Superstar
6
7
WINE TOURISM
Terroir Superstar
As we travel along the many wine roads, we encounter some of the most
desirable wines in the world, like Romanée-Conti and the masterpiece of
Vosne-Romanée, as well as Pommard, Meursault, Chablis, PouillyFuissé, Givry and more. It’s an incredible constellation of wines easily
enjoyed during a stroll, a visit to a cellar or a pause in any of the new
places where you can learn to taste wine.
THE « CLIMATS » OF THE BURGUNDY WINE GROWING
REGION. Classified as UNESCO World Heritage sites
my
faves
de Tonnerre”); and, finally, great vintages (grands
crus like Bonnes Mares, Charmes Chambertin,
Montrachet and Richebourg).
Now there are even more trails to help you discover
the Climats by car, on foot or even by bike.
www.climats-bourgogne.com
BEAUNE VINEYARDS BY MOPED
faves
One unusual and fun way to visit and better understand the concept of
“climats” is by moped.
Take a turn through Beaune and across some of its nearby vineyards on a two-wheeler
belonging to the Domaine Guyot. Each path and vine helps explain the idea of wine
enclosures and place names. http://baptisteguyot.wix.com/baptisteguyot
It’s great to be able to coast on vintage two-wheelers through
such prestigious vineyards. Small roads lead us to the heart of
the vines. From there, as soon as we gain a little elevation,
we realize the extent of the fields. The views are incredible
from on high!
8
TRIP PLAN
FOR THE HILL
OF CORTON
W
Burgundy’s terroir is unique. Its 150-mile-long vineyard is a source of inspiration
to wine amateurs and experts. This naturally blessed region depends on the
excellence of its soil and the effective use of its “climats,” the latter a complex
notion that first found favor with monks in 1098.
Each parcel of land was the subject of
specific studies made by the Benedictine
and Cistercian monks, who then classified
and protected the land using low walls.
This in turn gave rise to vineyard enclosures (“clos”)
and place names.
This typically Burgundian subtlety explains why
two parcels a few feet apart don’t produce the
same wines. It is also an early precursor to the
four-tier Burgundian wine hierarchy: generic
wines (red Burgundy); village appellations (MoreySaint-Denis, Saint-Véran); first-growth vintages
(premier crus like Chablis premier cru “Montée
my
NE
André.
Visit of the Château Corton
An
ars.
nect
dian
Tasted several Burgunthe hill of Corton.
impromptu stroll on com
www.pierre-andre.
le of Comte
1:00 PM > Lunch at the tasting Tab
ace of
from
Seen
ton.
Cor
Sénard in Aloxe- place, there are vineterr
s as
yard
this truly charming
com
ard.
esen
main
.do
www
see.
far as the eye can
for visiting
3:00 PM > An afternoon in Beaune n jewel: the
crow
its
y
ciall
espe
er,
the historic cent
wn as the Hospices de for
Hôtel Dieu, better kno
the opportunity to shop
at
ped
jum
Beaune. I
some gourmet souvenirs:e! mustard, spice
bread, cheese and wineaune.com
www.hospices-de-b
Corton, where
6:30 PM > Departure for Aloxe- Villa Louise,
the
at
room
Paul has reserved a far from the Domaine
a charming hotel notI’ve a feeling we’re going
du Comte Sénard. t in the vineyards. Before
to have a great nigh
going for a dip in the
heading to dinner, I’m
.
pool
g
min
indoor swim
www.hotel-villa-louise.fr
8:00 PM > Aperitif and dinner
great s
at the Buissonnière
What aharl
te’
y.
rign
Ser
oix
C
in Lad
ace! g cappoted
pl
cookin rfectly
www.restaurantoff a pe
labuissonniere.com
beautiful day.
10:00 AM >
9
ADD
TO MY DIARY
HOSPICES DE BEAUNE WINE SALE
The third weekend of November is a big
rendezvous for wine enthusiasts and
professionals. It happens like a practiced ritual
every year: more than 600 casks of wine are put
up for auction under Christie’s hammer. The sale is
an opportunity for professionals to get an early feel
for how the vintage, and by extension the market,
will do; but it is also, and above all, a great way to
discover the wine capital of Burgundy, which pulls
out all the festive stops for the occasion.
www.beaune-tourisme.fr
SAINT-VINCENT TOURNANTE
In 2016, just for once, the Irancy vineyards will
host the great Saint Vincent de Bourgogne festival
on 30th and 31st January 2016.
www.st-vincent-tournante.fr
WINE
ROADS
www.burgundy-tourism.com/discover/travel-the-wine-routes
THE ROUTE DES GRANDS CRUS
THE ROUTE DES VINS
IN CÔTES DE NUITS
AND CÔTES DE BEAUNE
OF THE MÂCONNAIS
BEAUJOLAIS
From Dijon to Santenay, there are 50 miles of
happiness to crisscross, all along what’s been
called the “Champs-Élysées” of Burgundy (national
route 74). It’s a road that passes through GevreyChambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aloxe-Corton,
Pommard and more.
The nature is a bit wilder and the temperature a
little hotter in southern Burgundy. It’s a region of
yellow stone and the imposing Rock of Solutré.
The 47-mile wine route follows the path of the sun
through lavish lands like Fuissé and into Beaujolais,
which is split between Burgundy and the Rhone.
THE ROUTE DES GRANDS VINS
THE ROUTE DU CRÉMANT
IN CÔTE CHALONNAISE
IN CHÂTILLLONNAIS
COUNTRY
A bit further south, this extension of the Côte
de Beaune with a different “climat” includes
Rully, Bouzeron, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny.
The wine road here follows the more hilly Côte
Chalonnaise. It’s 62 miles of beautiful landscapes
that can be appreciated by bike, by boat or along
a greenway (voie verte).
Not far from the vineyards of the Aube, the Route
des Crémants runs for 75 miles through bubbly
Châtillonnais wine country. Here yet again, a
great many wineries enhance the journey.
+
THE ROUTE DES VINS
IN THE YONNE
The Yonne is spanned by national route 6, a
legendary road that once, during the hostel
heyday, guided holidaygoers from Paris to their
vacation destinations. Its 160 miles traverse
several vineyards and hundreds of wineries in
Vézelay, Chablis, Irancy, Tonnerre, Joigny and
more.
Fast Facts
hich 33 are
llations – of w production
pe
ap
0
10
ith
al
W
– and an annu dy appears small
grands crus
Burgun
s,
le
tt
bo
n
of 200 millio (only 3% of the production of all
age
of the
on the world st
nes are some
And yet, its wi
French wines).
fter.
most sought-a
10
SCHOOLS
LA VINIF - THE COOPERS’ WINES, Beaune
This is a new type of wine-tasting room, one
set in a cooper’s haunt in the heart of Beaune.
It’s a modern and cozy place where tastings are
fun and friendly. Burgundy-style nibbles - a meat
plate, cheese puff pastries - can also be arranged.
www.vinsdestonneliers.com
FOR TASTING
BURGUNDY WINES
With Burgundy so well known for its
wineries, wine tastings are now more
educational, playful and user-friendly
than ever before. Wine bars, schools,
tasting tables and even the vintners
themselves offer opportunities to teach
about how to sample Burgundy wines.
VIGNERONS OF SECRET WORLDS,
Whether you desire cooking
Prissé
demonstrations, wine-tasting soirées, vineyard
walks or just a chance to shop, the Vignerons des
Terres Secrètes are ready to help you discover the
wines of Mâconnais.
www.terres-secretes.com
BIVB WINE SCHOOL, Beaune
The Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de
Bourgogne is best placed to teach tasting
techniques. Through short introductions to more
comprehensive training, the school is adapting to
its new public. With a glass in hand, a professional
instructs you how to look at, smell and taste wine,
and then share your thoughts about it. It’s fun and
informative. www.ecoledesvins-bourgogne.com
DOMAINE SAGET, Pouilly-sur-Loire
The vineyards of the Nièvre, which practically rub
leaves with those of the Loire, also have some
things to say. The domain of Guy Saget in Pouillysur-Loire tells the story of Sauvignon, a white
grape originally from Pouilly-Fumé.
www.domainesaget.fr
THE CHÂTEAU DE CHAMIREY TASTING
The castle looks out over
TABLE, Mercurey
the Mercurey vineyards. The Devillard family,
which owns vineyards in Saône-et-Loire and the
Côte-d’Or, set up a tasting table here that includes
the commentary of a professional. It’s an easy
step from here to the dinner table. The Domaine
du Château de Chamirey now also counts on
the support of Laurent Peugeot, the chef of Le
Charlemagne, a Michelin-starred restaurant in
Pernand-Vergelesses. www.chamirey.com
THE BUBBLE IMAGINARIUM AND THE
Bubbly
CASSISSIUM, Nuits-Saint-Georges
crémant wines and cassis are two important
elements of Burgundian wine-growing. In NuitsSaint-Georges, two museums allow for full
immersion in both worlds through games for the
senses and guided tastings.
www.imaginarium-bourgogne.com
www.cassissium.fr
THE TABLE OF COMTE SÉNARD, AloxeA great place for deepening your
Corton
knowledge of Côte de Beaune wines. With your
feet practically in the grapevines, your wine tasting
and lunch involve two sommeliers, only for you,
whose focused purpose is to discuss the wines.
www.domainesenard.com
DOMAINE BROCARD near Chablis
This famous Chablis domain offers private wine
tastings plus dinner in a wine cellar. Oenological
discovery and good times are shared over a
typical Burgundian meal. www.brocard.fr
11
WINE TOURISM
THE
When laying out the vineyards, the monks included a road
that ran from the north to the far south of Burgundy. The
result is 155 miles of vineyards to savor along six labeled
wine roads.
MEALTIME
Seeing Stars in Burgundy
12
13
MEALTIME
Seeing Stars in Burgundy
Burgundians love their food. As much as they love their wine. It’s much
more than a tradition; it’s a religion! There isn’t a village that doesn’t have
a special dish or ingredients. No matter where we went, we couldn’t help
but note the passion for the fresh produce cultivated with abandon throughout
the region. In Burgundy, there’s no better time than mealtime!
Moutarde Fallot
100% Burgundian
LITIES
IA
C
E
P
S
L
A
N
IO
SOME REG A DETOUR
WORTH
Bœuf Charolais
Since 2010, Charolais beef has been an AOC
product too. The AOC zone includes Charolais
and Brionnais, the cradle of the Charolais cattle
breed, covering four departments in Burgundy, but
pushing toward the Loire and the Rhone as well.
There is also a soft Charolais goat cheese that
has been AOC since 2010.
www.boeufdecharolles.fr
www.aoc-charolais.com
Marc Désarménien, head of Fallot mustard,
an artisanal enterprise that’s the last of its kind,
produces 100% Burgundian mustard, meaning
with seeds grown in Burgundy (not Canada).
Since 2004, Burgundian mustard has been a PGI
(protected geographical indication).
www.fallot.com
Other Notable Products
and Recipes from Burgundy
BURGUNDY IS SEEING STARS - 33 OF THEM!
my
faves
Anis de Flavigny; Cassis de Dijon (especially the
Kir®, a brand belonging to Lejay-Lagoute); a wide
variety of cheeses, like Epoisses, Brillat-Savarin
and Ami du Chambertin; Aligoté wine, which,
thanks to Bouzeron, is the only AOC product
in France from this grape variety; pôchouse (a
traditional river-fish recipe from Verdun-sur-leDoubs); œufs en meurette (eggs poached in a redwine sauce reduction); marbled ham; Burgundy
snails; bœuf bourguignon; and gougères
(cheese in choux pastry). Find more products at
www.burgundy-tourism.com
33 stars, 33 macarons: Burgundy is one of the regions of France with the
most Michelin stars.
Newcomers to the Michelin club in 2014 and 2015 are: l’Aspérule (Auxerre); Loiseau des
Ducs (Dijon); Le Jardin des Remparts (Beaune); Ed. Em (Chassagne-Montrachet); La
Marande (Montbellet); Auberge du Paradis (Saint-Amour Bellevue); and Au 14 février (Saint-Amour Bellevue).
Volaille de Bresse
The Only AOC Poultry in France
It is the pride of the region. With distinctive blue
feet, white feathers and a red crest, the Bresse
chicken is the celebrity of local products. This
unique poultry, dignified as an AOC (“controlled
designation of origin”) is deserving of its
preferential treatment. Its tender flesh is sought
after by foodies and cooks. It is even the
subject of a traditional festival, Les Glorieuses
de Bresse, held annually in December. Bresse
is notably also home to several other AOC
products, like Bresse cream and Bresse
butter.
www.pouletbresse.com
www.aoc-creme-beurre-bresse.fr
14
15
MARKETS
NEVERS MARKET
NIÈVRE
SAÔNE-ET-LOIRE
There are two market scenes in Nevers: the
covered one from Tuesday to Friday; the Saturday
outdoor one on Place Carnot. www.nevers.fr
On Friday, at the heart of the city, opposite the
cathedral on Place Saint-Vincent, the Chalonsur-Saône market draws crowds of producers,
especially from nearby Bresse.
www.chalon.fr
NOYERS-SUR-SEREIN
MARKET
I jumped at the opportunity to visit
this city of art and history, and to
go to the Espace Bernadette Soubirous
spiritual center.
MÂCON MARKET
YONNE
All of these markets can be found at
www.burgundy-tourism.com
(click on “to do, to see”).
SAÔNE-ET-LOIRE
A very nice market in a charming Medieval
city. The truffle growers gather every year in
November to sell their Tuber uncinatum (the
Burgundy truffle).
This enormous
Quai Lamartine
on many small
atmosphere on
I love this village. It’s one of the
most beautiful in France!
www.noyers-et-tourisme.com
ADD
TO MY DIARY
DIJON MARKET
CÔTE-D’OR
GOURMET FESTIVALS
IN BURGUNDY
The market hall is the pride of the people of
Dijon who flock here every Tuesday, Friday
and Saturday. www.dijon.fr
designed
market hall?
It’s Clément Weinberger.
Not Gustave Eiffel.
But the market halls era
suggestive of the work of
Eiffel, who was from Dijon.
z
Quickion:quiwho
quest the Dijon
> Ascension Weekend
Gourmand Days (Journées gourmandes) of the
Grand Morvan and Burgundy Region
Saulieu (21210) www.saulieu.fr
> Early August
Snail Festival (Fête de l’escargot)
Digoin (71160) www.fete-escargot.org
> Third weekend in August
Charolais Festival (La fête du Charolais)
Saulieu (21210) www.saulieu.fr
> From 1 to 13 November
Gastronomy Fair (Foire gastronomique)
Dijon (21000) www.foirededijon.com
BEAUNE MARKET
CÔTE-D’OR
> November
Truffle Market (Marché aux truffes)
Noyers sur Serein (89310)
www.noyers-et-tourisme.com
Every Saturday, the market hall of Beaune,
which also hosts the famous Hospices de
Beaune wine auction, comes alive with local
producers.
What a lively market, a
visit to which often ends with a
coffee on Place Carnot!
> Mid-December
Les Glorieuses de Bresse
Louhans (71500)
www.glorieusesdebresse.com
www.bourgogne-tourisme.com
www.beaune-tourism.com
16
MEALTIME
CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE
MARKET
outdoor market occupies the
every Saturday morning. Count
regional producers and a great
the banks of the Saône.
The
people of Mâcon often meet at the
Café Lamartine on the waterfront.
TRIP
PLAN
www.macon-tourism.com
ound Louhans
A Monday Morning Ar
t
this famous maanrkeinc
Walk through ken
ible
’s
ere
Th
Bresse chic abl.e taste site” (“sitered
reputed for its this
emark
atmosphere indu goû“r
op beneath theksarcaadelots tolike
t”)
le
remarquab tte (a shortc.utStpas
that loo
buy a cornio a typical Louhanstrypastry.
a gougère),
ck aperitif in the market near
11:30 AM > Grab a qui
the old Louhans market hall.
Chaudron à Ratte. I gave
12:30 PM > Lunch attried the volaille de Bresse with
in to temptationrels;andPaul ordered frogs’ legs “cooked
cream and mo ombes.”www.lechaudron-restaurant.fr
like in the D
a Bresse
rme du Devant,
3:00 PM > Visit the Fe
ace
lin
y gal ous bird to
eck out the onlce!
chicken house.anChAO
an
Fr
have received -ledevanCt.in
fr
www.ferme
ge Rouge in
ay at the Gran
5:00 PM > Not far aw
h a focus t
wit
ss
cla
king
ude, take a coo
Chapelle Napro
flea marke
the
r,
me
sum
ery
Ev
e.
on regional ge duc
bargain
of
wd
cro
a
ts
uge attrac lagrangerouge.
org
at the Gran ll Ro
hunters. I’ be back!www. e guesthouse, Ferme
in a sublim arie-Eugénie.
7:00PM > Fall asleep
er with M ...
inn
D
ie.
gén
de Marie-Eu
real treat.
is
ian cuisine ugea nie
This Burgund
.fr
riee
ma
ede
erm
laf
http://bnb.
SAINT-CHRISTOPHEEN-BRIONNAIS MARKET
9:00 AM >
SAÔNE-ET-LOIRE
Cadran Brionnais is a regional institution that
specializes in breeding Charolais cattle. Since 1488,
it hosts a weekly gathering of regional farmers and
traders.
www.cadran-brionnais.fr
sday-afternoon e
The weekly Weditine
al market mak
auction and tradl on
uided) visit not
for an unusua m(giss
ed!
to be
SENS MARKET
YONNE
Held every Monday all day, and Friday and
Saturday mornings in the spectacular market
hall. www.tourisme-sens.com
17
HERITAGE
A Land Blessed by the Gods
Vézelay
18
19
Dijon’s Palace of the Dukes
of Burgundy
HERITAGE
A Land Blessed by the Gods
I was immediately struck by a buoyant
sense of freedom in Burgundy. Here,
for untold ages, nature, history and art
have truly come together, whether as small
charming villages or in the biggest cities such
as Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, La Charitésur-Loire, Dijon, Beaune, Vézelay and
Solutré.
DIJON: Art and Style
At the entrance to the capital city of Burgundy,
a sign sets the tone: “Dijon, City of Art and
History.” Since July 2015, its historic centre
has even been classified by UNESCO as a
World Heritage site under the classification of the Climats!
my
faves
It’s a very fitting description. From the most famous sites, like the mansions
(word has it that there are at least 150) and the Palace of the Dukes of
Burgundy (wow, the Salle des États is just stunning!), to the much more
“modern” attractions, such as the Museum of Fine Arts, which just went
through an incredible renovation – everywhere you look, art and history
rub shoulders, each an affirmation of the other. I love it!
I continued my enjoyment ub
in the little newly-opened gastrop
close to the museum.
BEAUNE: Wine Capital of Burgundy
faves
Autun: Roman and romanesque
A Romanesque city jewel at the gates of Morvan
Regional Natural Park. I can’t pull myself away
from this sister and rival city to Rome.
www.autun-tourisme.com
NOT TO BE
MISSED
Flavigny-sur-Ozerain:
Old Stones, Anise and Chocolate
A darling little medieval village nestled in Auxois.
Open wide your eyes and your mouth, as this
is where Juliette Binoche and Johnny Depp
filmed the movie “Chocolat.” To keep children’s
complaints to a minimum during a stroll, tell them
you’re at the heart of where the anise-flavored
Anis de Flavigny candy is manufactured.
www.anis-flavigny.com
Brancion
A pretty medieval village perched on a rocky outcrop
a few miles from Tournus.
www.brancion.fr
Alésia
Much ink has been spilled about the Battle of
Alésia. Alise-Sainte-Reine promises a pleasant
Muséoparc that welcomes both children and
adults to relive history.
www.alesia.com
Chalon-sur-Saône, Auxerre,
la Charité-sur-Loire, Nevers:
www.mba.dijon.fr
my
e: set aside
A worhdoleofafatedvricnoon for a deep
the w into the cathedral, um.
plunged town and the muse
the ol
It has also been classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage site, under
the classification of the Climats, since July 2015!
Completely surrounded by vineyards, Beaune literally keeps watch over its wines. Greg
took us to visit the Hospices de Beaune, now with a newly restored roof. This building,
which served as the set for “La Grande Vadrouille” (a famous French comedy film released
in the U.S. as “Don’t Look Now... We’re Being Shot At!”), once provided succor to the
poor.
From there, as we strolled through the center of town, I felt like I was moving back in
time. The wine culture, including Beaune’s famous trading
Next year, I’m setting aside
houses, made an indelible mark on this beautiful bourgeois
the third weekend of Novemb
city. Even hidden beneath the streets, hundreds of wine
to be in Beaune for the er
cellars all connect into an endless maze, part of a real
prestigious Hospices de Beaune
parallel universe.
wine auction.
www.beaune-tourisme.fr
20
Water may not necessarily come to mind when you
think of Burgundy, but it flows through more than
750 miles of canals and rivers as an integral part
of the region. There’s little doubt that Burgundy’s
charming towns exhibit qualities of casual calm
similar to those of other waterside towns.
www.achalon.com/Tourisme
www.ot-auxerre.fr
www.lacharitesurloire-tourisme.com
www.nevers-tourisme.com
Bibracte
This major attraction is an unforgettable
archeological site with special appeal to anyone
keen on Celtic civilization.
www.bibracte.fr
Saint-Étienne de Sens Cathedral
How could anyone resist the appeal of this historic
monument, the first Gothic cathedral in the history
of Christianity?
www.tourisme-sens.com
Noyers-sur-Serein:
The best truffles and markets!
This is one of the most beautiful villages in France.
It’s an idyllic setting for a romantic and gastronomic
getaway. www.noyers-et-tourisme.com
21
HERITAGE
Abbey of Fontenay
I’ve never been able to resist a good
castle. All along our route,
we discovered little historical gems.
fan
’s no in
d
Even dPstauonl,e,wdihodn
m
t
’
of ol g out of his way.
goin
CASTLES
CORMATIN
GUÉDELON
A LOVELY CASTLE LOST
IN A MAZE OF GARDENS
A GRAND PROJECT
In Saône-et-Loire, not far from Cluny, I indulged
my whims. Between two vineyard strolls, I
stopped by Cormatin! I loved losing myself in
the rooms of this 17th-century former seigneurial
residence. This castle embodies the full charm of
the Renaissance. And what amazing gardens!
Our friends told us lots about Guédelon, an
incredible worksite where the goal is to build a
proper medieval castle using the methods and
materials of the times. I was so curious I had to see
it from up close. It’s amazing how much has been
accomplished since 1997. Guédelon has become
a must-see site in the region.
www.chateaudecormatin.com
www.guedelon.fr
A hint: lose yourself in the maze
and imagine yourself in the France
of Louis XIII!
CHÂTEAUNEUF-EN-AUXOIS
The light in the Ouche Valley must be seen to
be believed. High above, perched atop a rocky
outcrop, Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, one of the most
beautiful villages in France, is a rare surviving
example of Burgundian military architecture. The
fortress keeps watch over the Auxois region and
the Burgundy Canal. Whether strolling through its
narrow alleys, admiring the valley views or stopping
at a little crêperie – you can hardly go wrong!
ADD
TO MY DIARY
S
EDISCOVERING IT
BURGUNDY IS R ROOTS.
MEDIEVAL
www.region-bourgogne.fr/chateauneuf
als will be held
ring, many festiv
Starting in the sp
ion.
throughout the reg
May in Saintthird weekend of
the
on
ing which is
/ It begins
\
low
fol
de la Redoute,
Apollinaire’s Parc
n-Auxois over the
Bague in Semur-e
the Course de la
celebrations at
the
es
oll
d. In Germ
Pentecost weeken
ing.
nn
er’s castle are stu
Margaret Of Fland
the medieval
in July includes
The full program
l) with more
/
\
nia
en
neuf-en-Auxois (bi
market of Château
val Festivals of
die
Me
the
rs,
ito
d exhib
than 80 costume
ce July 14th.
Couches take pla
of
s to life the days
er, Tonnerre bring
/ In Septemb
\
ndy.
Margaret of Burgu
For more about
Burgundy has four UNESCO World Heritage Sites:
> Abbey of Fontenay in Côte-d’Or
> Vézelay Church and Hill in the Yonne
> Priory of Notre-Dame de la Charité-sur-Loire in the
Nièvre
> The Climats of the Burgundy wine growing region
Seven villages in Burgundy have been labeled
as Ville d’Art et d’Histoire (Towns of Art and
History):
>
>
Autun > Auxerre > Chalon-sur-Saône
Charité-sur-Loire > Dijon > Nevers > Joigny
They join three Pays d’Art et d’Histoire (Lands of
Art and History):
> Pays de l’Auxois > Pays Charolais-Brionnais
> Pays entre Cluny et Tournus
TRIP PLAN
IN SOLUTRÉ
OTHER CASTLES WORTH
CHECKING OUT
ANCY-LE-FRANC
This true Renaissance
palace, located in the Yonne, was designed by
Sebastiano Serlion, the celebrated Italian architect
of François I. I could hardly contain myself when
I saw the 16th- and 17th-century painted murals.
www.chateau-ancy.com
SULLY
The Duchess of Magenta still lives
in Saône-et-Loire and fights to preserve this
incredible treasure. Children get pampered in
this dreamlike world, where special events are
organized in which kids play the heroes.
www.chateau-bazoches.com
.com
22
lage of MillyArrival in the evilcof
bed som fee in the
Lamartine. Grab
cafe on the main square.
it’s just
down
ré
lut
So
for
the
re
road
rtu
9:30 AM > Depa
climb (after a
9:45 AM > Start of them).
quick visit to the museu
the top. The view
11:00 AM > Arrival at ent; it takes your
magnific
is indescribably En
,
joyed the panorassoma
ay.
aw
breath
before
n,
rgi
Ve
of
k
roc
in
tw
including the down.
heading back
Auberge de Jack, 2,
12:30 PM > Lunch at illy-Lamartine
place de l’Eglise à M
headed off to the
2:30 PM > While Paul dière wine cellar at
an
Domaine de ladepSoartufr
the Maison de
Vinzelles, we easily edreafor
foot, if
ble
cha
Lamartine - the heart of the on
e.
lag
vil
desired - in ers.com
www.bretbroth
for our guesthouse,
5:30 PM > Departure urce aux fées, in
So
the Domaine dewelall-deserved night of calm
Fuissé, for a the charming Mâconnais
surrounded by .lasourcedesfees.com
vineyards.www
9:00 AM >
CHÂTEAU DE BAZOCHES In the Morvan,
a few miles from majestic Vézelay, go a little bit
further for a real taste of natural
paradise. This imposing 12thTomorrower
century castle was Vauban’s
evening, ledind’nhotes
home. The garden is a feast for
at the tab we can
the eyes.
so that
-tourism
www.burgundy
”).
Fast Facts
www.chateaudesully.com
festivals, see
(click on “events
+
t of
make thestmayos.
our
23
BURGUNDY
BY BOAT
On the Waterways
24
25
THE DELTA
THE BILLEBAUDE
BURGUNDY BY BOAT
A CRUISE ON THE BURGUNDY CANAL
On the Waterways
At the harbor office of Pouilly-en-Auxois, we took
off on a solar-powered electric boat promenade.
It was a two-hour tour done in perfect tranquility.
Between Pouilly and Escommes or Vandenesse
(and then back) we crossed the “Voûte de Pouilly,”
a two-mile boat tunnel with 12 ventilation
shafts. The crew will stow up to eight
bikes on board, making the cruises a
perfect way to connect water-based
tourism with two-wheeling.
We let ourselves get carried away
by the canals and discovered a
whole different Burgundy, one
that’s silent and restful. Along
the 600 miles of rivers and
canals, this other Burgundy
revealed one of its most appealing
facets: a natural, water-based
tourism that set us at our ease.
www.cap-canal.fr
Once a month since 2013,
there’s a meal aboard the
Billebaude. Next time we’ll
jump at the chance!
The chef’s got a surprise in store: a morning
visit to Chalon-sur-Saône for a cruise lunch
on a barge. It’s a 20-miles trip in 3½ hours
during which to take in the unforgettable views
of Chalon and environs from the panorama
room. One-way cruises are also an option
for travel to Tournus et Verdun surle-Doubs.
www.croisieres-saonoises.fr
EXCURSION
BOATS
During a 90-minute cruise on the
Canal Latéral à la Loire (channel
alongside the Loire), we discovered
the canal aqueduct, surrounding villages
and unspoiled countryside of this corner of
Burgundy.
THE HIRONDELLE II
TRAVERSE THE TUNNELS OF LA COLLANCELLE
by Solar-Powered Electric Boat
my
faves
I’d been told that the Nivernais Canal is
described as one of the most beautiful in France.
This is hardly an exaggeration. We followed its flow aboard our solar-powered
electric vessel, gliding in the wake of the raftsmen who long ago used it to
deliver wood to Parisians. The high points were the passage through the
seven locks of Sardy and going through the tunnels of La Collancelle.
www.aquafluvial.fr
The boat can also:
be used for events
business meeting, .
ays
marriages and bire thd
t
tha
giv
to
I need
some thought!
Oh the joys of combining gastronomy and
discovery! The Hirondelle II, in Auxerre, was
standing by for an effortless glide on the Yonne
and the Nivernais Canal, punctuated by the locks.
www.bateauxauxerrois.com
These cruise boats with
solar-powered electric
motors are an awesome
invention. They’re the
perfect way to float along
in perfect silence and
without pollution.
A CRUISE on the New Locaboat Yachts
my
faves
I am a total philistine when it comes to boats, but according to the
experts, the Linssen brand is the European standard when it comes to
pleasure crafts. As soon as we boarded a Linssen Grand Sturby 34.9,
I was sold!
It’s the Maserati of yachts: the luxury standard-bearer of the fleet, complete with a kitchen, living room (with
sofa and table) and even an office for four to six people.
We left from Joigny, but other points
of departure include Corbigny, Montbard, Saint-Léger-sur-Dheune and Loisy.
www.locaboat.com
26
THE LATÉRAL
27
BURGUNDY BY BOAT
r bikes on
Bringing oufa
ntastic idea.
board was a be
an a
What could be withtterfrthiends!
“bike-barge”
HOTEL
BARGES
Barges have been given new life by turning
them into distinctive lodgings. Barge
holidays run two to seven days in length
and are usually all inclusive: full board
provided by a live-aboard team that also
takes care of shore excursions, wine cellar
and monument visits, and sometimes even
transfers to and from Paris!
RANDLE HOTEL BARGE
CAPRICE BARGE
The Randle’s English owner and his crew lead
gastronomic excursion on the Nivernais Canal and
the Yonne. Passionate about Burgundy, the owner
is an excellent chef, and also generous with both his
stories and guided tours. He knows the area inside
out, whether it’s vineyards or castles.
We set off to discover the heart of Burgundy. The
path is unimpeded along the Burgundy Canal, the
Saône and the Canal du Centre. There is hardly
any traffic beyond a few birds in flight. It’s true
immersion in the waterways of the region.
www.sntcruises.com
www.edgecharter.com
+
MAGNOLIA HOTEL
BARGE
Fast Facts
Burgundy has:
On the Burgundy Canal, starting in Escommes,
we were drawn into the water’s flow by this threeroom full-comfort barge with private bathrooms,
a living/dining room and terraces.
> More than 600 miles of navigable waterways, including 12 canals and rivers
www.peniche-magnolia.fr
>
52 moorings
>
a 3,000-boat capacity
>
340 houseboats in 27 boat-hire bases
> 42 marinas, such as Saint-Jean-de-Losne,
the largest inland pleasure port in France
There’s even a Jacuzzi!
APRÈS TOUT BARGE
> 10 cruise boats, of which four have onboard
meal service
> 30 hotel barges (Americans account for 65%
of all overnights), the most in France
We were invited to join Caroline et Rory Macrae on
their barge, a 125-foot floating house equipped
with three cabins and a Jacuzzi. It’s everything
you need for a pleasing trip of several days on the
Burgundy Canal.
>
BY HOUSEBOAT
ADD
TO MY DIARY
In Burgundy there are more than 300 houseboats
for rent for as short as a weekend or as long as a
week. Some of them are like real abodes with all
the comforts of home (including, in some cases,
a pool or a fireplace). All I had to do was make
my choice of waterway, destination and home
port. (I had a weakness for the Morvan based out
of Châtillon-en-Bazois.) After one quick training
session, there I was, captain of my own ship!
Every summer there are
many events helping
to revive interest in
sailors’ and raftsmen’
s
traditions, including Par
don des Mariniers in
Saint-Jean-de-Losne,
Joutes et Descente
Bidon in Clamecy, Lig
ériades in Digoin and
Festiv’Halles en eaux
in Decize.
You don’t need a boating license. These ships
practically pilot themselves, with a single-lever
steering platform and two positions. Count on a
gorgeous cruise through the heart of the Nièvre!
For more information,
www.bourgogne-riva
ges.com
is the new website ded
icated
to Burgundy’s waterw
ays
www.canalous-bourgogne.com
www.bargeaprestout.com
roline in
Withkitchchefen,Caquality is
the guaranteed!
19 river cruise ships in the “Rhône-Saône” basin
BURGUNDY
28
29
BURGUNDY BY BIKE
Freewheeling
30
31
BURGUNDY BY BIKE
Freewheeling
At every possible opportunity, I parked
my car and took to the many
greenways and bicycle routes along
the canals and rivers, through the
vineyards or in the shadows of the
castles. Moving at my own pace,
I discovered a whole different
Burgundy.
here witChaountala
w
y
n
a
o
g
t
’
on
d
We I even bought the uide.
map. ernais Michelin topog
du Niv
NOT
TO BE MISSED
All the Maps and Topoguides Needed
for Easy Pedaling
EuroVelo 6
For the stout of heart, there’s a European route that
crosses Burgundy: EuroVelo 6 connects Nantes to
Budapest. Within Burgundy, it runs from Nevers
to Chalon-Sur-Saône and then runs alongside the
Saône River to Saint-Jean-de-Losne.
www.eurovelo6.org
Don’t worry, you won’t miss a thing. With the
Bourgogne à vélo (Burgundy by Bike) map, the
Tour de Bourgogne à vélo par les voies vertes
(Bike Tour of Burgundy by Greenways) topoguide
and even the Vélibook for the Burgundy Canal,
most of the region is covered.
www.michelin-boutique.com
www.francevelotourisme.com
Cycle Tourists’ Best Friend:
www.la-bourgogne-a-velo.com
Add this address to your favorites and check out
the new sections: www.burgundy-by-bike.com
The Cyclists-Welcome Happy Holiday
Guarantee
THE VINEYARD WAY: Two-for-One Fun!
my
faves
From Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy, we
pedaled for almost 14 miles along this pretty
bike route. It was intoxicating and disorienting.
We felt so privileged to ride through the hearts of such prestigious wine
villages: Pommard, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet.
The maps on the site are
excellent, complete with itineraries,
nearby services and lots of
useful information. They can
be downloaded or added to your
GPS. Fantastically convenient!
Accueil Vélo (Cyclists Welcome) is a national
brand established in 2013. It’s an easy way to
identify places that know how to take care of
two-wheelers. What better guarantee is there for
cycle tourists seeking a high-quality welcome and
services adapted to their needs?
Awesome green logo with the little
cyclist on it!
www.burgundy-by-bike.com
Special little hint for any sporty types: in the evening in Beaune, taste some wine and
enjoy a romantic night at the Clos de la Challangette, a guesthouse that knows how to
welcome cyclists (see Accueil Vélo, below). www.clos-challangette.com
www.burgundy-by-bike.com - Section Itineraries - The Vineyard Way
BURGUNDY BY ELECTRIC BIKE, or How to Pedal with Ease
my
faves
Bikers in Burgundy have a bounty of routes from which to choose: the
Voies Vertes® of southern Burgundy, the Nivernais Canal, the Burgundy
Canal, the Canal du Centre.
In Châteauneuf, I discovered that I could rent electric bikes. Now we could even enjoy the
most scenic routes, taking in views of the castles, vineyards and canals.
http://waterfallcircuit.com
Those e-bikes put wind beneath our
wings and lifted us to lofty perched
castles. From such high places, the
views over the whole Auxois valley
are absolutely splendid.
32
33
BURGUNDY BY BIKE
NIVERNAIS CANAL
IN THE WAKE OF THE RAFTSMEN
+
Fast Facts
THE TR AVEL MAGAZIN
E AFAR
has selected Burgundy
as the best
vineyard bicycle tourism
destination
in the world. The wheels
really seem
to be turning for “Burgu
ndy by Bike”!
Canal de Bourgogne
BY BIKE
BURGUNDY CANAL
Burgundy is crisscrossed by waterways and their
towpaths are set aside for two-wheelers: the
Nivernais Canal, the Canal du Centre, the Canal
Latéral à la Loire (channel alongside the Loire)
and the Burgundy Canal. Once used by horses,
these paths have been restored and upgraded to
meet modern needs.
Over the course of three days, we followed 85
miles of the Burgundy Canal. Starting in Dijon, we
wound our way through the Ouche Valley. After
pedaling near Alésia and the Abbey of Fontenay,
we finished with a spin through the Tonnerrois
vineyards. Of course, we made the obligatory visit
to the Fosse Dionne, one of France’s largest and
most curious springs. www.bag-transfert.com
ALONG THE WATERWAYS
THE “ROYAL” ROAD
Oh wait, I almost
forgot the Voie Bleue (Blue Way),
which now runs along the Saône from
Mâcon to Tournus and soon as far as
Chalon.
Paul didn’t want us to have to lug
our bags the length of the canal.
Fortunately, I found the perfect
solution: a luggage delivery service
all along the way.
The best!
… AND THE RAIL-TRAIL
FROM CLUNY TO MÂCON
THE MISSING LINK
Greg promised me an amazing route: a trail
designed for bikes in 1997 that follows the path
of an old rail line. This was France’s first Voie
Verte® (Greenway)! From Cluny to Mâcon, it’s
an easy glide, whether by bike or on skates. The
best part of the trip, near Cluny, was the Tunnel
du Bois Clair, a former rail tunnel now seasonally
open to cycle tourists. The one-mile passage goes
over the Bois Clair col and, frosting on an already
tasty cake, takes you to within sight of the castle
at Berzé. Nothing but the best!
Next time we’ll try the new section
between Marcigny and Iguerande, not
far from the river Loire it is safe and
easy!
FROM NEVERS TO DECIZE
Between the Loire by Bike and Burgundy by Bike
there used to be a gap of about 18 miles. Not any
more. This section is open. Between Nevers and
Decize: the green rolling hills of the Nivernais, and
the little villages and their
Romanesque churches.
The Nivernais Canal is the best way to get a full
blast of nature for three days. Between Decize and
Auxerre, we discovered the canal’s confluence with
the Loire River, the vaults of La Collancelle and the
series of locks of Sardy (no problem by bike!), and
we admired the Valley of the Yonne. Many bascule
bridges and brightly colored lock-keepers’ houses
enlivened the route. Never a dull moment!
ADD
TO MY DIARY
BIKE EVENT NOT
THE BURGUNDY VÉLOTOUR,
TO BE MISSED IS DIJON IN
TAKING PLACE IN BER.
EARLY SEPTEM
www.canal-du-nivernais.com
Along the way, we took a detour to
the “eternal hill” of Vézelay. It was
all about adding a touch of culture to
our trip through so much nature. Plus
there was no way we could skip this
UNESCO World Heritage Site. In
gratitude, I treated my friends to a
drink!
gh museums,
ce to pedal throu
This is your chan
different way
d
an
ol
co
a
It’s
libraries and more.
city.
to experience the
www.velotour.fr
TRIP PLAN
The Greenway to the Gates of Southern Burgundy
2:00 PM > Continue on to Marcigny,
not at all far away.
10:00 AM > Arrival at Iguérande, in
Brionnais. Admire the 9th- to 10thcentury Romanesque church.
10:30 AM > Jump on bikes and pedal to
Marcigny along the banks of the Loire.
12:00 PM > Picnic lunch along the Loire
just before Marcigny. Delight in the
rugged countryside and preserved nature,
a superb landscape very different from
everything seen thus far.
While Paul visited the
Musée de la Voiture à Cheval (Carriage
Museum), I lingered in and browsed
through the Emile Henry store, coming
away with some souvenirs of its ceramic
ovenware and cooking utensils.
2:30 PM >
www.emilehenry.com
5:00 PM > Take a short gourmet break
to taste chocolate at Bernard Dufoux in
La Clayette.
We can’t wait
to explor
new greenewthayis!
34
www.chocolatsdufoux.com
35
ADRENALINE
Natural Energy
36
37
NOT
TO BE MISSED
ADRENALINE
Natural Energy
Go a little crazy, reach for the sky (in a hot air balloon) and flirt with
the elements in places of great natural beauty. Try adventuring in an old
rock quarry, waterskiing on a lake in Mâconnais, riding a Segway through
the vineyards or taking a long eco-conscious paddle.
Take a “Mobilboard” Roll
Through the Vineyards
Ride a Moped
in Beaune’s Vineyards
Let’s be honest: this isn’t a short Segway tour.
I’m talking about an off-road trip on Segways built
for all terrains, even extreme ones. Gone are the
easy paved roads; we ended up traipsing through
vineyard backroads from Beaune to Dijon. It was a
truly unique experience in the midst of great wines.
We had a lot of fun on these retro machines. Our
Solex mopeds steered true along the famous
Route des Grands Crus wine road. A perfect – and
vintage – way to discover the Beaune region at just
the right speed, so I could enjoy the scenery.
http://baptisteguyot.wix.com/baptisteguyot
We were reassured that the rides are
supervised.
www.mobilboard.com/beaune
It was likel
being 18 al
over again!
CHAMP RETARD Grotto
my
faves
The 48-foot-high vaults are a
backdrop for adventure trails unlike
anywhere else in France.
Try climbing up the walls of the quarry, gripping the stone itself.
It’ll make your head spin. For years, the quarry was the source
of white rock used in the construction of Paris’ most beautiful
buildings. And here we are clinging to the real rock face. It’s
madness!
www.grottechampretard.com
The first Friday of every month,
s
a fireside Burgundian picnic take
place and the adventure trails
are open at night. Awesome!
+
Crazy Race in Dijon-Prenois
A Traverse of the Morvan BY MOUNTAIN BIKE
my
faves
Climb into the saddle and set off on 205 miles of elation and elevation on this
French Cycling Federation trail. The Grande Traversée du Morvan, aka GTM, traverses
the Morvan from Avallon to Autun, taking in Saulieu and the great lakes of the regional
nature park.
www.morvanvtt.fr - http://tourisme.parcdumorvan.org/
I loved the little services provided all along the way, like the bike
washing stations and interconnected accommodations that transfer
baggage between them. And when you complete the itinerary,
there’s even a shuttle that brings you back to the start.
38
That’s
class!
Paul had always dreamed of driving a race car.
Mission accomplished! In a Ferrari F430 (there
was also a Lamborghini Gallardo), he headed out
on the legendary Dijon-Prenois racing circuit, a
course that has been used for Formula 1 Grand
Prix races. It’s something he’ll never forget.
Fast Facts
A NEW KIND OF
LEISURE AREA HA
S OPENED
IN VANDENESSE
-EN-AUXOIS.
Waterfallcircuit is
a 1½-acre ecolo
gical area that
combines sport wit
h relaxation. To tak
e it easy,
there’s a cascade
of clear water, gra
ss beaches
and playgrounds.
To kick into a hig
her gear, there’s
a sports circuit sp
ecially designed for
a “fun bike,”
an electric two-w
heeler that can rea
ch speeds
of 30 mph.
Paul hopes to come back and see one
of the main events on the circuit, like
the Trophée Historique de France in
April or the Coupes Moto Légendes
in June.
www.waterfallcircu
www.circuit-dijon-prenois.com
it.com
39
AND LET
GO
I did it! I climbed into the basket of the hot
air balloon and reveled in the 360-degree
view of Burgundy. We floated for 90
minutes over vineyards and groves in a
state of blissful calm.
When we
a glass
of crémant lawnasded,
w
ai
tin
us, along with a ce g for
commemorating our rtificate
flight!
ADD
TO MY DIARY
There’s nothing like a bird’s-eye view to
understand the wines of Burgundy. Our vessel
floated above the legendary wine lands and
helped us come to grips with the peculiar notions
of “clos” and “climats.”
Our hot air balloon flight over the groves
and Saint-Fargeau castle of la Puisaye
left me with unforgettable memories. It’s
incredible how green Burgundy is!
www.montgolfieres-i-love-balloon.com
www.lelac.fr
THE ECOPADDLERS’ PATH
The ecopaddlers concept is great! Paul was
delighted to do some canoeing while I, using a
GPS and an audio guide, was able to relax a bit
and contemplate the flora, fauna and heritage of
the Loire. There are eight ecopaddler itineraries
in Burgundy, including the Loire, the Saône, the
Burgundy Canal and the lakes of the Morvan.
www.canoekayak-bourgogne.fr
GeoCaching is an awesome idea. It’s a real treasure
hunt adapted to the outdoors using GPS devices.
Participants go to specific coordinates and search
for the geocache (a box) concealed there. When
they find it, they sign the logbook and put it back in
the box. They can also take an item that they find
in the cache and replace it with another of equal
or greater value
www.geocaching.com
WHITEWATER ACTIVITIES
IN THE MORVAN
AIR ESCARGOT
One of the hot air balloon pioneers in Burgundy (in
business since 1979), Air Escargot organizes daily
flights for individuals and groups
around Nuits-Saint-Georges,
Beaune and Chalon-sur-Saône.
www.beaune-montgolfiere.fr
www.montgolfiere-en-bourgogne.fr
I LOVE BALLOON
I know how to use the chair lift when we go snow
skiing, but not the one on a lake! I discovered this
new system in Mâcon, in southern Burgundy, where
I was able to try some new sports. I was attached to
a cable suspended about 30 feet in the air and then
pulled faster and faster. The skiing sensation was so
amazing that I felt like I actually took to the air!
TAKE PART IN A TREASURE HUNT
THANKS TO GEOCACHING
ades71.com
www.montgolfi
A night flight is not to be missed!
A magical moment!
WATERSKI AT WAKEBOARD
PARK LE LAC
http://tourisme.parcdumorvan.org/
sts the
alon-sur-Saône ho
In early June, Ch
le
rab
mo
me
a
,
Montgolfiades
gathering.
and high-spirited
ings
d wine festival br
This ballooning an
rope
Eu
s
ros
ons from all ac
together 50 ballo
d.
en
ek
we
st
co
during the Pente
SEE VINEYARDS FROM THE SKY
Burgundy knows how to leverage its wine, but
water has also played a huge part in building
the region’s history and shaping its landscape.
And Burgundians know full well how
to exploit its potential.
There are more than 900 miles of blazed trails
through the one massif of the Morvan, a lush
nature preserve. We hiked along the GR de Pays
(Tour du Morvan) trail and admired the great lakes.
It’s the perfect place to enjoy the serenity and
beauty of the forests. We asked a professional
guide to come with us.
THE SPECIALIST
BEAUNE MONGOLFIÈRES
Burgundy is so diverse that it offers an
abundance of hikes of different styles: the
spiritual paths from Paray-le-Monial to Cluny
and from Vézelay to La Charité-sur-Loire;
that vast natural sites in the Morvan and the
Mâconnais; and strolls in the vineyards of the
Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits wines.
HIKING IN THE MORVAN: A MUST
FRANCE MONGOLFIÈRES
It was a very difficult choice: fly over the eternal
hill of Vézelay to admire the famous basilica, a
UNESCO (and Morvan) World Heritage Site, or
take in Beaune’s vineyards and picturesque
villages. All from above!
www.franceballoons.com
WITH FEET
IN THE
WATER
Paul spotted
the medieval site
of Guédelon.
Spectacular, even
from afar.
40
www.air-escargot.com
NE
W
THE « BOURGOGNE RANDO VIGNES »
MOBILE APP.
In the midst of the forest and granite rocks of the
Morvan, the clear waters of the Cure cut a 13-mile
path used by those who love whitewater activities.
For anyone with lots of experience, the Chalaux,
a tributary of the Cure, runs wilder, a tumultuous
torrent, between the dam at Chaumeçon and
Crescent Lake. For beginners, the rapids of the
Truite are a perfect and safe place to sample the
pleasures of waterskiing.
This downloadable app suggests walks through
the vineyards, helping visitors enjoy the authentic
natural environment and better understand the
wines of Burgundy.
www.cotedor-tourisme.com/bourgogne/
randovignes
www.burgundy-tourism.com
(click on “Must see tourist attractions”)
41
ADRENALINE
TIME TO
HEAD UP
FIRMLY
ON THE
GROUND
ZEN ATTITUDE
Unbutton in Burgundy
GOOD FITNESS:
GET BACK IN SHAPE
AND LET GO
Let Yourself
CELTÔ
Special Water for Wellbeing
In Bourbon-Lancy, the beneficial qualities
of the water have been noted since
antiquity. Celtô specializes in wellbeing
and fitness, a perfect program for a body made sore
by a unforgiving world.
www.celto.fr
The paths of Burgundy often lead
us into the vineyards. It’s a
perfect setting for unwinding, taking
a moment for a cocooning break.
All that between two gastronomic
adventures, of course.
I let myself be tempted
by an Oriental facial treatment.
LA FRUITITHÉRAPIE®,
Gathering Strength
As a
little bit of background, halotherapy (a saltbased therapy) is a natural cure that’s been
practiced for centuries in Central Europe and
North America. A half hour in the salt cave
is said to have the same effect as a weekend
by the sea! www.relaxsel.fr
my
faves
RELAX’SEL…
NOT
TO BE MISSED
In the midst of Meursault’s
vineyards, the Château de
Cîteaux, a sumptuous and aristo-
Letting Go in the Spa of Saint-Georges
in Chalon-sur-Saône
I was mentally transported in the spa of the
Hôtel Saint-Georges by the fragrances, hushed
atmosphere, calm location and the treatments.
Paul went back and forth between the
pool, Jacuzzi and hammam, while I opted
for a massage.
I had 45 minutes of near nirvana
with this flower-based treatment.
Unadulterated joy! www.le-saintgeorges.fr
Give Yourself over to the Domaine
des Prés Verts near Saulieu
LE SPA CÔTE COON
of the Côte Saint-Jacques
in Joigny
faves
Find safe haven between Saulieu and Arnay-leDuc, right at the gates of Morvan Natural Regional
Park. After a moment of pampering in a Jacuzzi with
stunning views of the surrounding nature, hit the hay
in an eco-cabin perched atop tall stilts.
www.domainedespresverts.fr
This paradise for gastronomes
and overstressed urbanites is
more than 8,500 square feet of
pure delectation. There’s everything
here for proper pampering: a pool, Jacuzzi,
hammam, sauna, fitness room and treatment
room. And it’s all on the banks of the Yonne, in a
hotel belonging to Jean-Michel Lorain, a two-star
Michelin chef. www.cotesaintjacques.com
42
This former post-house is practically
an institution. William Frachot, its twostar chef, completely modernized it
according to today’s expectations, including adding
a spa.
www.chapeau-rouge.fr
RELAIS BERNARD LOISEAU
I have always dreamed of stopping in chez Bernard
Loiseau, a legendary figure of French cuisine.
His Relais de Saulieu opened its doors on to an
enchanted world: a cocoon inspired by Burgundian
materials: tiled floors, pillars made from regional
rock, plaster walls, orange gold.
The sauna set
in cedar woods and a few short swims in
this mineral atmosphere added 10 years to
my life. www.bernard-loiseau.com
SAINT-HONORÉ-LES-BAINS
A Spa in the Morvan
This is the thermal spa of choice. In a magnificent
Neoclassical setting, I feel like
I’m suddenly in the 1900s.
Since Gallo-Roman times, the
arsenical and sulfurous waters
have been known to ease respiratory conditions and other
forms of rheumatism. But I
think I’m more in the mood to
sample the pleasures of the spa.
www.st-honore-les-bains.com
TRIP PLAN
I’m writing these
few lines seated on
a bench in park full
of century-old trees.
From here I have
been contemplating the
beauty of the place.
in the
Chatillonnais
the Route
Head to Massingy on and
sample
tre
oCen
Oen
the
Visit
t.
man
du Cré
some bubbly.
Templiers
12:00 PM > Lunch in Bure-lesus.
Vén
de
ot
Sab
at Le
de Vix in
AFTERNOON > Visit of the Trésor
is.
nna
tillo
Châ
s
the Musée du Pay
Le Château
4:00 PM > Return to the hotel,
du Verger
rces
Sou
the
Courban. Go straight to the
grape
and
r
cavia
Try
ion.
for a spa sess
t.
tmen
seeds anti-aging prestige trea - a very
7:00 PM > Dinner at the hotel ent “Châteaux
this magnific
romantic soirée - in Wh
Hôtels Collection.” at happens next is a
secret!
10:00 AM >
SPA BOURGOGNE
Vines and Wellbeing
In Beaune, wine capital of Burgundy, pinot noir is
everywhere, even in the healthcare. The beneficial
properties of grapes, like antioxidant polyphenols
and a rich anti-radical pulp, have been known for
centuries. With candlelight and gentle zen music, I
let myself go with my ‘Grape, Source of Wellbeing’
package.
For my girlfriends, I will
recommend the Spa Girls treatments meant
to be shared by a mother and daughter (1018 years old), which includes a “barrel
bath” of red grapes, a massage and a
facial. www.spa-en-bourgogne.com
We tried an “Ofuro double” bath followed
by Polynesian body sculpting. It was
a magic and romantic moment of pure
paradise!
THE SPA OF THE HOSTELLERIE
DU CHAPEAU ROUGE
This is an excellent place for an
overwhelmed tourist like me. The hydromassaging showers are just right, along
with the hammam, sauna and the aperitifs!
Relaxing in a Cave of Salt from Poland
A break in the action for a real detox, but this
time in a cave... of salt in Pouilly-Fumé country.
There we were, snuggled into a relaxing recliner,
wrapped in a soft fleece blanket and tucked into
cave of salt mined from Wieliczka, Poland.
cratic residence, is now a hotel. And
it has opened its doors to Fruitithérapie®, a spa
treatment using red berries from Burgundy
that are rich in antioxidants, vitamins and trace
elements. The view over the vineyards is just
magnificent. www.lacueillette.com
my
GO
...
“CHIC AND LUXURY” SPAS:
RELAX IN A
MAGNIFICENT SETTING
http://routeducremant.fr - www.le-sabotdevenus.fr
www.oenocentreampelopsis.magix.net
www.musee-vix.fr - www.chateaudecourban.com
43
PUTTING GREEN
Golf course of Chailly-sur-Armançon
Burgundy: Where Golf Is Natural
Perfectly integrated into their natural
surroundings, the golf courses of Burgundy
lie in wait among the forests and rivers.
The Best Addresses
IN
GOLF
CHAILLY-SUR-ARMANÇON
GOLF COURSE: Natural Beauty
my
faves
I must be honest: I’m not really all that excited about golf. But, well, Greg insisted.
“You’ll see,” he said. “You’ll like it.” And as I’ve heard a lot about the Ouche Valley, it seemed like
a good place to try it. How glad I was that I did, my friends! You should head there right now.
This golf course is an absolute marvel. Set amid nature,
its Renaissance castle casts a natural spell. I played through all 18
holes with my eyes wide open, lulled by the sound of the Rubillon, the
stream that runs through the vast French-style park.
After the circuit, I slipped
away for a visit of the castle.
And then I went to recharge
my batteries in the hotel’s
Jacuzzi and hammam.
www.chailly.com
GOLF JACQUES LAFFITE:
The Benchmark
TRIP
PLAN
Out in the countryside a short
distance from Dijon, Golf Dijon
Bourgogne in Norges-la-Ville
is one of the most beautiful
golf courses in the region! Another bonus
my
faves
FOR THE NIVERNAISLE BARDONNAY
Y-COURS
GOLF COURSE IN MAGN
rs
Arrival at the Magny-isCouplan
ned.
race
car
y
earl
an
re
whe
se,
cour
race
visit
to
11:00 AM > Head to Nevers
the artist’s quarter.
at Une
12:30 AM > Snacks and aperitifs Nevers), a
vre,
Note de Vin (60 rue demenNiè
wine cave and
simple but highly recom wededtaste
d wines from
restaurant. At Crochet,
!
good
too
t
Sancerre. Jus
rs, this time
2:30 PM > Return to Magny-Cou
se.
for its Nivernais golf cour
a golfing
3:00 PM > Paul wants revenge onwalk and
a
take
to
y
happ
I’m
buddy, but
house. If I’m
catch some rays at theworclub
my stroke on
on
k
l
I’l
e,
feeling brav
se.
cour
the five-hole learning s.com
www.golf-du-nivernai
for golfers: the indoor training and performance
center. It’s got everything you need to improve your
game: analysis, training, advice and equipment
adapting.
9:00 AM >
www.golf-dijon.fr
+
Fast Facts
Diverse and efficient, there are no fewer
than 20 golf courses in Burgundy,
11 of which have 18 holes.
Find all the information you need at
www.burgundy-tourism.com
(click on the “to do, to see” tab).
44
OTHER GOLF COURSES TO CONSIDER
MÂCON-LA SALLE GOLF COURSE
THE CRAZIEST
Château d’Avoise golf course in Montchanin.
No less than 300 acres await your strategy and
technique. Make sure you practice before you hit
these magnificent 18-hole links. www.golf-avoise.net
This course comes with a big surprise. Its design
includes outlines of different parts of the female
body! It was the eccentric brain child of architect
Roger Berthet. www.golfmacon.com
The evening ended on a high note at
the truly fantastic restaurant in Rue des
Abattoirs in Le Creusot. The chef is a
woman who’s crazy about good produce.
DOMAINE DE RONCEMAY GOLF COURSE
AT AILLANT-SUR-THOLON
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION!
Clairis golf course in Savigny-sur-Clairis.
Perfect in summer, this course runs alongside an
oak forest. Clairis has all the mod cons required
for improving your game: a pro shop, clubhouse,
restaurant, driving range, putting green and
practice bunker.
www.gaiaconceptgolfclairis.fr
I filled my lungs with huge breaths of fresh air
during this 18-hole course. In the middle of a vast
forest, we played alongside five ponds before
coming to ground on a broad plateau that looked
and felt like Scottish links.
This course wasn’t
designed by just anyone, you know. Jean
Garaïalde, a former professional golfer,
and Jeremy Pem, world-renowned
architect and course designer. Total class!
“Blue Green” golf course of Quetigny.
This 18-hole golf course is located within Dijon city
limits. That makes it easy to hit a few balls after
touring in the capital of Burgundy. You’ve got all you
need in this urban course at the heart of Mirande
park’s greenery, including good attack angles
and
fairways.
www.quetigny.bluegreen.com
www.roncemay.com
LA ROSERAIE DE CHÂTENOY-EN-BRESSE
GOLF COURSE ALL ABOUT ROSES
For amateur botanists and flower lovers, there’s
nothing better than this golf course, planted with 200
tree species and more than 25,000 feet of roses!
www.golfchalon.com
A word of advice:
go when the roses
are in full bloom.
Don’t miss the chance to visit the
nearby little Biscuiterie Mistral store,
which always has something to tantalize
the taste buds!
45
LUXURY ACCOMMODATION
Simply Sumptuous
LUXURY
ACCOMMODATION
Simply Sumptuous
All these abbeys, castles and bourgeois mansions speak
to a clear sense of Burgundian elegance. Luxury too?
Well yes, but one that respects history and heritage.
Everything to awaken in me the romantic that I am.
RELAIS BERNARD LOISEAU:
Magic at Work
my
faves
It’s a legendary place in Burgundy.
The personality and passion of Bernard Loiseau have made
their mark on the history of la cuisine française and Dominique
Loiseau carried forward this tradition of excellence. Today, Patrick
Bertron, with his three Michelin stars, ensures respectful continuity with the
restaurant’s classic dishes but also brings to them his own creative touch.
The garden spa, outdoor pool, and grand and noble salons convince us to
slow down and savor the moment.
www.bernard-loiseau.com
This is a unique and
chic place without any
ostentation. Luxury just
like we love it!
CHÂTEAU DE BESSEUIL:
Royal Mâconnais
my
faves
No sooner had we passed the gates when I was completely wowed by this
incredible castle. What a majestic monument!
Part of a picture of the past as only Burgundy can present it. Really, wow, what a castle! The
renovation of this 16th-century structure was tackled by masters who understand the architecture
and materials of the times. Luxury and authenticity now come together beautifully in this four-star hotel, part
of the Château Hôtels Collection. Six spacious apartments are set in charming detail: French-style ceilings,
private gardens, original fireplaces and exposed beams. Other rooms, more modern in style and with views
over the vineyards, have been created in converted outbuildings.
When the sun sets over the
Mâconnais vineyards and ,thethe
swimming pool lights go onvenly.
setting becomes simply hea
www.chateaudebesseuil.com
Château de Gilly-les-Cîteaux
46
47
LUXURY ACCOMMODATION
Abbey of La Bussière-sur-Ouche
NOT
TO BE MISSED
La Côte Saint-Jacques in Joigny
Le Cep in Beaune
This establishment is renowned for the cooking of
its Michelin two-star chef, Jean-Michel Lorain. The
luxury here is discreet, most notable in the décor
and the exactness of the staff. It strikes a delicate
balance between simplicity and excellence.
For fans of French excellence, this is a trip back in
time that I highly recommend. Steeped in history,
this exceptional hotel is right at the beating heart of
Beaune, a city made for wine lovers, gastronomes
and culture vultures. Le Cep is anchored in two
16th-century landmark townhouses.
The big pluses of this hotel: the cuisine
of Jean-Michel Lorain, the indoor
pool with garden views and the superb
8,600-square-foot spa.
It’s just
an amazing hotel with French-style
ceilings and old-tile floors. We spent
the night in a “boudoir”-style suite with
a canopy bed!
www.cotesaintjacques.com
www.hotel-cep-beaune.com
Château de Vault de Lugny
in the Yonne
Hostellerie de Levernois
Right by Beaune
Pure luxury in this magnificent, five-star, 16thcentury castle.
Not to forget the incredible
inside swimming-pool in a vaulted
room of the chateau and the gastronomic
restaurant...www.lugny.fr
This essential Relais & Châteaux stopover
for anyone passionate about wellbeing and
gastronomy has one Michelin star.
www.levernois.com
Grand Hôtel Dijon la Cloche
A Dijon Institution
Abbaye de la Bussière
in the valley of the Ouche
The history of the five-star Grand Hôtel, a Dijon
institution, dates back to 1884. With its crystal
chandeliers, private garden, bar and plush lounges,
it is a perfect evocation of the art of French living,
especially the good life in Burgundy. Its luxurious
guest rooms have been completely renovated.
Michelin one-star chef Emmanuel Hebrard has
worked wonders in the gourmet restaurant of this
Relais & Châteaux, a former abbey and spiritual
place in the Ouche valley.
www.abbayedelabussiere.fr
Our lunch in the Jardins de la Cloche
has left me with fabulous memories of
Dijon! www.hotel-lacloche.fr
Château de Courban
in the Chatillonnais
It’s a proverbial home away from home – a
special place, full of character, hidden in the
Burgundy
countryside
near
Châtillonnais
vineyards that produce a bubbly crémant. Pierre
Vandendriessche, the owner, is a former decorator
who has unleashed his joy in this boutique hotel.
Think garden strolls, relaxation around the pool,
book time near the fireplace, nightfall.
Hostellerie Le Cèdre in Beaune
The Definition of Refinement
This five-star establishment is located just a few
feet from Côte de Beaune vineyards right in the
center of the wine capital of Burgundy. It’s perfect
for a romantic break in an outstanding place where
wellbeing is king and I am queen.
www.lecedre-beaune.com
and hospitable dwelling.
www.chateaudecourban.com
The gourmet restaurant is one of Beaune’s
most notable, now recognized by chef
Christophe Canati’s first Michelin star!
In the evening, I took a walk with
Paul around the famous Hôtel-Dieu.
Oh what a night!
48
A noble
TRIP PLAN
in the Yonne V
ineyards
10:00 AM > Arrival at La Côte SaintJacques Relais & Châteaux in Joigny.
We’ve booked a deluxe suite with a
dramatic view of the Yonne.
11:00 AM > Drive with our guide, Eric
Szablowski of Au Cœur du Vin, in
his Citroën 2CV through the Chablis
vineyards. He takes us to the Château
de Béru for Chablis wine tasting.
www.aucoeurduvin.com
1:00 PM > Lunch in Chablis at Au
Fil du Zinc, Fabien Espana’s new
“bistronomique” about which we hear so
many good things. It’s an awesome
place to continue discussions about the
49
minerality of Chablis wines.
www.restaurant-chablis.fr
3:00 PM > A break to allow for some
digestion during a stroll through the
village. I couldn’t resist buying a
few local specialties in shops at the city
center.
EVENING > A taste of the chef’s
incomparable cuisine. I insisted on ordering
the special sea-fresh terrine of oysters,
Bresse chicken steamed in champagne and
the famous black pudding. It was an
unforgettable and romantic dinner!
www.cotesaintjacques.com
GLAM CHIC
Glamor and No Fuss
It’s a marriage of style and famous places: castle suites, guesthouse holidays,
revamped hotels, redesigned inns. Whether right in town or on a backroad,
authenticity and contemporary elegance have come together in very sweet
harmony.
GLAM CHIC
Glamor and No Fuss
Chablis and the Château de Béru:
AUDACIOUS ELEGANCE
my
faves
The stage is set as soon as the
castle comes into view.
It’s a 13th-century residence adrift in a
sea of Chablis vineyards. It’s like being
in a dream. Athénaïs and Laurence de Béru, our hosts,
accompany us to a wing of the castle. We have a choice
of rooms: “Lilas” (Lilac Purple), “Garance” (Bright Red) or
“Havane” (Tan). We opt for “Lilas.” The old stones and tiles
are a harmonious match with the fabrics, quilts and lamps.
www.chateaudeberu.com
Athénaïs and Laure
their biodynamic wnince had us taste
replanted in 1987 e, Clos Béru,
. Cha
are such a delight.blis wines
Along the Walls of Beaune:
MODERNITY AND SOPHISTICATION
my
faves
We travel to the wine capital of Burgundy on the delightful Nationale 74
(once a national road now known as departmental route 974) as it winds
through the vines of the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune.
Paul has reserved a room in a very central and charming 18th-century mansion.
The residence subtly plays up its anachronisms, pitting its past against its
present. The exposed beams, fireplace and antique furniture of the large salon
made a strong impression on me. Given the choice between a large room and a
large suite, we fell for the suite “Côté cour.” Royal treatment!
La Borde guesthouse
50
www.coterempart.com
51
It is also possible
to rent
the entire place!
Yet another transformation. This former monastic inn
has been turned into a sumptuous mansion house.
With its covered gallery, its magnificent Burgundian
roof and its designer rooms, guests are really spoilt
for choice. Paul reserved the «Angélique» room for
us, designed by Viviani. I was in heaven!
www.lesluciolesdemontagny.com
CITY GLAM
GLAM
Authenticity and chic go hand in hand in Burgundy.
The proof is all the fantastic places we have
discovered during our city walks. What comes to
mind? Terrasses in Tournus, where Amandine and
Jean-Michel Carrette (a one-star Michelin chef)
have breathed new life into their establishment.
It’s handsome and modern, all in keeping with the
history of the place. I got the same impression of
the Hôtel d’Europe et d’Angleterre in Mâcon. This
magnificent building, built in 1804, is living history,
caught astride modernity and tradition.
Moulin du Coq in Argilly:
Calm and Refinement
Along the wine road, one quiet little retreat near
Nuits-Saint-Georges is the Moulin du Coq. The
fully renovated building from 1830 has been
converted into a high-quality inn with a few rooms.
I loved the simple but classy décor and
the indoor pool. Only the very best.
Nièvre and Its Château de
Planchevienne: Family Luxury
www.lemoulinducoq.fr
Hidden away in a park is this sumptuous residence
with mosaic tiles, old wood floors, immense
fireplaces, wood paneling, rosettes and vintage
chandeliers. I have always dreamed of living like a
princess!
Beaune Printing Works:
Industrial and Chic
In summer, there are plenty of
places for lounging: the morning terrace
at the front of the castle, another one
by the pool for sunbathing and a third
shaded one behind the castle. I take
advantage of the calm while the men are
away at Magny-Cours!
Dijon also has its standouts: Jean-Pierre Billoux, a
Michelin-starred chef, has opened five high-quality
rooms facing the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy.
In Beaune, walk through the doors of this former
printing house where Marie-Pierre and Sébastien
have fulfilled their dream of creating two industrialdécor guest rooms. The mix of materials is fitting:
steel, wood, concrete and velvet. A great and
elegant success!
www.chambres-de-limprimerie.fr
www.aux-terrasses.com
www.hotel-europeangleterre-macon.com
www.jeanpierrebilloux.com
TRIP PLAN
www.chateaudeplanchevienne.com
COUNTRY GLAM
in the Yonne
Hameau de la Fausse Sauge,
in Mézilles
A gem in the Puisaye
Far from urban tumult, we ended up on country
backroads in search of the kind of idyllic chic
that isn’t just for city dwellers. La Cimentelle is a
marvelous example of this. Near Avallon, Vézelay
and Chablis, between Puisaye and Morvan, La
Cimentelle is a beautiful mansion surrounded by an
arboreal park. Planned activities include a swim in
the pool and a macaron cooking class!
ric center
Stroll around the histo
tienne
t-É
Sain
the
in
of Auxerre and take and signposted Cad
et
r
towe
clock
l,
cathedra
fr
rre.
auxe
.otRoussel trail. www
Soufflot,
12:30 PM > Lunch in Irancy at es. The
win
local
ng
tasti
for
e
plac
t
a grea
vineyards are magnificent when seen from the
road leaving Auxerre. cy.fr
www.restaurant-iran
cellars in
2:30 PM > Visit the Bailly wine
place for
zing
ama
an
ux,
Vine
lerist-B
Sain
ly.
sampling some bubb fr
www.bailly-lapierre.
the Abbaye
4:30 PM > Quick quiet stroll in y set on
abbe
n
ercia
Cist
er
form
de Reigny, a
35 acres alongside the Cure.
www.abbayedereigny.com
Dominique
7:00 PM > Return to our hosts, de
eure
Dem
and Luc, owners of Lae is great. Burgundians
Forterre. The ambianclive!
sure do know how to
our
12:00 AM > Bedtime in Safran, at
Wh
.
room
yle
-st
ieval
enormous med
an amazing location!
www.demeure-de-forterre.com
9:30 AM >
This was our base camp as we explored the
Puisaye. The great timber frameworks are an
invitation to dream and guests can even spend the
night in the hamlet’s former dairy! This adorable
little house is as stunning as you can imagine.
Le
Hameau is made up of several buildings
that house the 5 rooms, which all have
a little something that makes each one
unique.
http://la-fausse-sauge.fr
Vign’Appart:
Residence in the Heart of the Vines
This fantastic holiday location is right smack in the
middle of the Côte-de-Nuits vineyards. What could
be better for a sampling of Nuits-Saint-Georges’
charms – multiple wine tastings and pastoral strolls
in the magical grape-filled fields of Burgundy?
At
the tourism office, Justine has a lot
of excellent advice. She knows all the
best places in the area.
Still in the Yonne vineyards, this time between
Chablis and Vézelay, there’s another place of note:
the Château de la Resle, a residence completely
redesigned with the idea of matching trend patterns
with contemporary design. Yet again in the vineyards,
but this time near Pommard, the Ferme de Marjolet
encourages guests to take part in a cooking class
or an impromptu tasting right in the 12th-century
setting of this completely redesigned open-space
farm. Along the Burgundy Canal, the Chateau
de Sainte-Sabine dating from the 17th century is
settled in a former monastary. It offers rooms with
modern fittings that nevertheless preserve the
authenticity of the place.
www.vignappart.com
52
53
www.lacimentelle.com
www.chateaudelaresle.com
www.lafermedemarjolet.com
www.saintesabine.com
GLAM CHIC
NOT
TO BE MISSED
Les Lucioles de Montagny,
in the Côte Chalonnaise
UNCONVENTIONAL ACCOMMODATION
Hidden Retreats
for Nature Lovers
UNCONVENTIONAL
ACCOMMODATION
Hidden Retreats for Nature Lovers
Take a break from your routine by channeling your inner child and spending
the night in an unorthodox place. We’ve climbed trees, opened our roofs to
take in the starry night sky, eaten breakfast at the waterside - all to spend
time with Mother Nature and live like the trappers of old.
SPEND THE NIGHT IN A GIANT COW
with a Panoramic View of the Stars
my
faves
The room really is a giant wooden cow, 13 feet tall. You could hardly get more
unconventional than this, the crazy idea of the owners, who wanted to build an eco-lodge in
southern Burgundy. Once on the terrace roof of this 375-square-foot bed-and-breakfast, the
panoramic view and comfortable hammocks drew us into contemplation of the stars.
www.divertiparc.com
Pursuing their idea to its natural end (as it were),
the owners have designed the cow’s tail as a giant slide
for speedy trips to the ground floor.
ONE NIGHT IN THE HOBBIT HOUSE
of the Domaine de la Pierre Ronde
my
faves
It’s straight out of a Hollywood film set. Hidden in the Morvan forest, on the
banks of Lake Chamboux, is a Hobbit House on a 60-acre plot.
I never dreamed I would one day sleep in such a place, living like a trapper, but we snuggled
together in this cozy nest, wrapped in nature’s embrace. Paul made a fire and I lit candles. It was
an experience unlike any other. www.domainedelapierreronde.com
“Œno-tonneaux” Wine-Barrel Cabins
54
The owners specialize in other unconventional lodging too, and have yurts, tepees and
trappers’ tents.
55
+
Fast Facts
Ludistay, the First Point-to-Point
Accommodation Network in Southern
Burgundy
“Œno-tonneaux” Wine-Barrel Cabins
in Lugny
Burgundians are so passionate about their wines
that they even sleep in their wine barrels. Yes,
it’s true. I found these cabins – unconventional
to say the least! – in Lugny amid the Mâconnais
vineyards. The Domaine du Clos du Grand Bois
has prepared five such “œno-tonneaux,” each able
to accommodate up to four people.
www.closdugrandbois.fr/oeno-tonneaux
Ludistay is an entertaining and unusual accommodation
concept that emphasizes proximity to nature. Its
accommodations are, in short, kind of like combination
chalets and tents. Equipped with all the expected
comforts, they are set up in five camping areas along
the voie verte (greenway) in southern Burgundy.
Added bonus: Ludistay guarantees luggage transfer
from one camp to the next and has rental bikes
available.
www.ludistay.com
CUT ALL TIES IN A LAKESIDE
CABIN OF THE CHÂTEAU
D’ETTEVEAUX
AFLOAT ABOARD
A “TOUE CABANÉE”
Seeing the cabins balanced over the
water on tall stilts really captured my
imagination! I quickly dropped my bags
and breathed in the fresh air on the
terrace. These B&Bs are perched and
ready in the south of Morvan Regional
Park, set up in “eco-collaboration” with
the woods of the Château d’Etteveaux.
As these cabins are only accessible
by rowboat, I plan to cut all
ties with the real world and
decompress.
LODGING
CLOSE
TO NATURE
Rediscover yourself
and unwind, keeping
nature as the main topic
of discussion
www.cabanes-lacustres.fr
The “Unusual Room”
Set in a Barn
Sometimes they can only be reached
by boat! A “Toue cabanée” is a little
chalet, built out of a transformed
former fishing boat, floating peacefully
on a 7½-acre lake. It promises the
same comforts as a four-star hotel
and comes with a kitchenette,
salon, bar, bedroom and bathroom.
I’m organizing a lunch - Paul’s
doing the cooking - on the terrace
looking out at the forest. Also
on the menu: the Domaine des
Demoiselles is suggesting short
and fun excursions whenever we
make landfall.
www.village-toue.fr
Fantastic idea: establish a memorable and romantic
overnight hideaway in a classic Nivernais barn from
1832. It’s a trip back in time, albeit with modernday bedding, to enjoy the relaxing sounds of the
countryside.
www.lesgalants.fr/hebergement-insolite-bourgogne
I’m completely cool with any attempt
to reestablish one’s natural rhythms, but
not at any price. That said, I do like my
creature comforts, so why not seek out
some chic while I’m here?! That’s why Le
Domaine de la Pierre Ronde really agrees
with me. There, in the Morvan, right
alongside Lake Chamboux, I feel right at
home in the large and comfortable yurts.
I slept in one called “All Is Love” that has
a wooden bathtub.
alants
The Domains e adesperG
ched
also ha
nest
(and leaning)
wooden
ter
- an off-kil
set
e
us
cubicle-treehothe groun2d!1 feet
above
UNCONVENTIONAL
CHIC
www.domainedelapierreronde.com
. It was all set up
with a romantic candlelit
ambiance.
Just 20 or so miles from Dijon, the village of Frenois is home to the
Gite du Pont de la Roche. As a perfect welcome to nature lovers, this
wood-framed guest cabin sits on the banks of a river traversing a 1½acre paradise of green and blends into its surroundings. Local activities
include catch-and-release fishing, mushroom picking and the kind of
absolute calm needed for recharging one’s batteries.
www.pont-roche.com
56
57
UNCONVENTIONAL ACCOMMODATION
NOT
TO BE MISSED
Unforgettable
EVENTS
Knights from the Brotherhood of Tastevin
58
59
JANUARY
MARCH
01
> FÊTE DU CRÉMANT ET DU TAPE
> SAINT-VINCENT TOURNANTE
Traditional festival of the patron saint of winegrowers,
held the third weekend of January. Festivities, wine
tastings and banquets in a different village every year.
www.st-vincent-tournante.fr
CHAUDRONS IN CHÂTILLON-SUR-SEINE
Highly colorful festivities centered around bubbly wine.
www.mairie-chatillon-sur-seine.fr
> HOSPICES DE NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES
WINE SALE
> SAINT-VINCENT TOURNANTE
DU CHABLISIEN
The Chablis vineyards also celebrate Saint-Vincent.
www.chablis.fr
> DONKEY FESTIVAL (FÊTE DE L’ÂNE)
IN SENS
Exhibitions, conferences, carriage rides, medieval food,
activities and workshops in the Musées de Sens. All
public performances.
www.tourisme-sens.com
MAY-OCTOBER
03-04
MAY
02
> CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE CARNAVAL
05
Young talent and old masters, actor-authors and
inventors of unique worlds all gather together to create
atypical and high-quality performances.
www.tdb-cdn.com/theatre-en-mai-0
> GOURMAND DAYS (JOURNÉES
> SLOW BUT STEADY (A PAS CONTÉS)
IN DIJON
GOURMANDES) DU GRAND MORVAN ET DES
PAYS DE BOURGOGNE
This is the rendezvous for young and old alike: a festival
that brings together artists from around the world and
companies based in Burgundy all to present their latest
creations.
www.apascontes.fr
Food fair uniting producers from the Morvan and the
Burgundy region.
www.saulieu.fr
> ROI CHAUSSÉ MEDIEVAL FESTIVAL
IN SEMUR-EN-AUXOIS
60
A two-day festival of music and gastronomy.
Les Francos Gourmandes invites headliner acts to
perform on stage and in the kitchen, all in a friendly
atmosphere by the Saône. Between concerts, visitors
dine in the Allée des Chefs or taste local specialties in
numerous popup wine bars.
www.francogourmandes.fr
JULY-AUGUST
05-10
Every year in late May or early June, Semur-en-Auxois
becomes a mixed-up Medieval town full of farces,
burlesque theater, music and dance, chivalry, games,
a craft market, taverns and concerts. In addition, the
Medieval city comes to life with secular costume races on
the Cours Général de Gaulle :
- May 31: les courses de la Bague (horse race) - Early June: la course des Chausses (footrace) et la
course à la Timbale (harness racing).
www.tourisme-semur.fr
Biennial exhibition of photography in the streets of the
old town. More than 350 photographs on display in
2014.
www.letedesportraits.com
This festival was created in 2003 based on a unique
concept in the prestigious setting of the Ancy-le-Franc
castel and gardens. The program includes a tour
followed by a music concert. The schedule leaves as
much room as possible for creation and improvisation.
http://musicancy.org
JUNE
>
>
LES ZACCROS D’MA RUE
IN NEVERS
Circus troupes “invade” the streets of Nevers every
summer. And with them they bring shows, concerts
and performances, each one crazier than the next!
More than 200 performances are on the program
every year to the delight of all audience.
http://zaccros.org
06
OXFAM FRANCE TRAILWALKER
Oxfam Trailwalker is the world’s greatest sport charity
challenge for teams. Groups of four people walk
together for 100 kilometers (62 miles) in 30 hours, all in
the stunning setting of Morvan Natural Regional Park.
The goal is to raise money in support of Oxfam France’s
international solidarity actions.
www.oxfamtrailwalker.fr
>
07-08
> THE ÉTÉ DES PORTRAITS EXHIBITION
AT BOURBON-LANCY
> MUSICANCY AT THE CHÂTEAU
D’ANCY-LE-FRANC
> THEATER IN MAY (THÉÂTRE EN MAI)
IN DIJON
Second only to Nice as the biggest carnival celebration!
By the Saône River, laugh fully at the spectacle of giant
cardboard heads.
www.carnavaldechalon.com
> FRANCOS GOURMANDES
IN TOURNUS
> FESTIVAL OF THE WORD (FESTIVAL DU
MOT) IN LA CHARITÉ-SUR-LOIRE
MARCH-APRIL
COUPES MOTO LÉGENDE IN PRENOIS
This is Europe’s largest motorcycle rally, a truly festive
gathering.
www.coupes-moto-legende.fr
This ballooning and wine festival brings together
50 balloons from all across Europe during the
Pentecost weekend. Numerous activities include wine
tastings, exhibitions, demonstrations, games, music,
entertainment and, of course, hot air balloon flights.
www.montgolfiades71.com
This unusual festival seeks to “reveal the magic and
power of words, writing, language, oral tradition and
accents...” and turn La Charité-sur-Loire into a kind of
French-speaking capital of the word.
www.festivaldumot.fr
A handful of feature-length films enter into competition.
A jury of prominent personalities awards grand prizes
for both French and international thrillers.
www.beaunefestivalpolicier.com
Contemporary dance festival allowing for the
discovery and meeting of the choreographers, dancers
and professionals who keep the discipline vital.
www.art-danse.com
>
> LES MONTGOLFIADES
IN CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE
The famous wine auction during which the previous
year’s harvest is sold. Many other activities also take
place, like a half marathon through the vineyards,
shows, a chocolate salon, tastings and more.
www.ot-nuits-st-georges.fr
> INTERNATIONAL THRILLER FILM
FESTIVAL (FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL
DU FILM POLICIER) IN BEAUNE
> FESTIVAL ART DANSE IN DIJON
FEBRUARY
03
> CHALON IN THE STREET
(CHALON DANS LA RUE)
This popular and sought-after street-performance
festival uses the city as its playground. Chalon-surSaône turns into a huge stage where thousands of
spectators become both the actors and the performers.
There’s theater, concerts, exhibition, poetry and humor
for five days with over 1,000 artists who strut their stuff
in front of 350,000 spectators.
www.chalondanslarue.com
CATALPA FESTIVAL IN AUXERRE
A new festival in Auxerre that covers all musical styles,
from rock to French songs.
www.lesilex.fr/catalpafestival
>
JAZZ À COUCHES
> PARDON OF THE MARINERS (PARDON
DES MARINIERS) IN SAINT-JEAN-DE-LOSNE
Jazz in all its fun forms at tented outdoor concerts.
www.jazzacouches.com
On the banks of the Saône, Pardon des Mariniers keeps
alive the traditional jobs that take place on the water. It’s
a huge party for boaters and boatmen.
www.saone-tourisme.fr
> NUITS PEPLUM D’ALÉSIA
IN ALISE-SAINTE-REINE
A festival of French song held in the natural setting of the
Roches theater at the historic site of Alésia.
www.lesnuitspeplumdalesia.com
61
This festival in the heart of the Morvan is about sharing
the music, dance, films and gastronomy of Louisiana.
www.bayouprod.com
One of the top European festivals focused on Baroque
music. Enjoyed in the most prestigious places of the
wine capital of Burgundy.
www.festivalbeaune.com
>
This is one of the largest festivals of traditional music
and dance. Over the course of four days, Anost rings
with the sounds of bagpipes, violins, accordions and
the hurdy-gurdy.
www.ugmm.org
A free concert every evening at an outdoor cafe in one
of several cities in Burgundy.
Autun - www.autun-tourisme.com
Auxerre - www.ot-auxerre.fr
Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire - www.ot-cosnesurloire.com
Dijon - www.visitdijon.com
Sens - www.tourisme-sens.com
Nevers - www.nevers-tourisme.com
NOVEMBER Ten excellent concerts are held in the magical setting of
the basilica, but also in Avallon, Asquins and Saint Père
sous Vézelay. The lively ambiance of the Rencontres
Musicales sees the public rubbing shoulders with the
artists in the streets and gardens of the “Eternal Hill.”
www.rencontresmusicalesdevezelay.com
In the exceptional setting of the castle and park, 15
paintings are staged using as many as 600 actors,
like Joan of Arc’s epic, Héribert’s hunt, the French
Revolution and American troops passing through
Puisaye. All in all, the show covers more
than 1,000 years of history.
www.chateau-de-st-fargeau.com
> BLUES EN LOIRE FESTIVAL
IN LA CHARITÉ-SUR-LOIRE
Blues en Loire invites artists from all over the world to
leave a “blue note” about the extraordinary heritage of
La Charité-sur-Loire.
www.lechatmusiques.com
> MAILLOTINES NIGHTS (NUITS
MAILLOTINES) IN JOIGNY
Unusual guided tours use music, song, dance and theater
to share this “City of Art and History” in a different light.
www.joigny-tourisme.com
SEPTEMBER
>
07-10
09
THE MEDIEVAL DAYS OF TONNERRE
Every two years in even years only, locals from the
Yonne turn back the clock to the Middle Ages. The
streets of Tonnerre come to life with dancers, musicians,
craftsmen and more.
www.lesmedievalesdetonnerre.org
> FESTIVAL MUSICAL DES GRANDS
CRUS DE BOURGOGNE IN CÔTE-D’OR, SAÔNEET-LOIRE AND YONNE
>
MUSIC FESTIVAL UNDER THE VAULTS
(FESTIVAL MUSIQUES EN VOÛTES)
Combine music and wine – that’s what this festival is all
about. Chablis, Noyers-sur-Serein, Meursault, GevreyChambertin and Cluny are the scenes of around 50
concerts and 30 events focusing on wine.
www.bourgogne-tourisme.com
This traveling festival offers chamber music concerts in
exceptional Romanesque settings in the four Burgundian
departments.
www.quatuormanfred.com
>
08
AWARANDA FESTIVAL IN IGUERANDE
Awaranda is the Gallic word for Iguérande. It means
“a border location marked by a major river.” This
festival features atypical concerts (hurdy-gurdy, lute),
performances and other activities.
www.arawanda.fr
> “AUGUSTODUNUM” IN THE ROMAN
THEATER OF AUTUN
A grand historical spectacle that plunges spectators
into the time of the Romans and Gauls.
www.autun-tourisme.com
62
11
> INTERNATIONAL GASTRONOMY
FAIR (FOIRE INTERNATIONALE ET
GASTRONOMIQUE) IN DIJON
> MUSICAL MEETINGS
(RENCONTRES MUSICALES) DE VÉZELAY
> HISTORY SHOW AT THE CHÂTEAU
DE SAINT-FARGEAU
AUGUST
Music in all its guises, including concerts, most of them
free, by high-profile artists like Stromae and Têtes
Raides. This festival is a celebration of musical styles:
from retro to ska via salsa and tango.
www.embarcadere-montceau.fr
> HURDY FESTIVAL (FÊTE DE LA VIELLE)
IN ANOST
FESTIVAL “ GARÇON LA NOTE ”
JULY-OCTOBER
> TANGO SWING AND SHOULDER
STRAPS (TANGO SWING ET BRETELLES)
IN MONTCEAU-LES-MINES
> CAJUN AND ZYDECO NIGHTS
(NUITS CAJUN ET ZYDÉCO) IN SAULIEU
> FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL D’OPÉRA
BAROQUE IN BEAUNE
>
Attracting nearly 600 exhibitors and 200,000 visitors,
the international and gastronomic fair of Dijon is the
sixth-largest international fair in France and Burgundy’s
most important economic event. Every year, one
country is given the honor of hosting the event through
its culinary specialties. A wine fair also showcases a
foreign vineyard (South Africa, Portugal).
www.foirededijon.com
FANTASTIC PICNIC
At the same time as the Fête de la Gastronomie in the
first weekend of autumn, “Fantastic Picnics” take place
in unexpected places throughout the region. They’re
the perfect opportunity to get together with friends and
celebrate the gastronomic heritage of Burgundy.
www.burgundy-tourism.com
>
> PRESS FESTIVAL
(FÊTE DE LA PRESSÉE) IN CHENÔVE
This vineyard festival takes place every year on the third
weekend of September in the old quarter of Chenôve.
The grape presses of the Dukes of Burgundy come
alive at this unforgettable time of celebration.
www.ville-chenove.fr
OCTOBER >
> INTERNATIONAL JAZZ MEETINGS
(RENCONTRES INTERNATIONALES D’JAZZ) IN
NEVERS
10
The capital of the Nièvre resonates with jazzy sounds.
It’s an intimate and friendly festival.
www.neversdjazz.com
LES AUTOMNALES DE POMMARD
> TRUFFLE MARKET (MARCHÉ AUX
TRUFFES) IN NOYERS-SUR-SEREIN
This fun family wine festival is all about discovering the
Pommard appellation. Festival activities include wine
tastings, cellar visits and vineyard walks.
www.beaune-tourisme.fr
>
HOSPICES DE BEAUNE WINE SALE
Third weekend of November.
This most famous charity wine sale in the world has
existed for more than 150 years. Every year, a celebrity
lends a hand to help sell the best wines. This event
includes many festivities: street shows, gala dinners
and, of course, wine tasting, all in the bustling city.
www.beaune-tourisme.fr
Fans of black gold meet together in one of the most
beautiful village in France, located in the Yonne.
www.noyers-et-tourisme.com
TRIBE FESTIVAL (TRIBU FESTIVAL) IN DIJON
Created in 1999, this festival offers Burgundians a
musical tour of the world by inviting you to discover a
multitude of musical expressions.
www.tribufestival.com
DECEMBER >
12
LES GLORIEUSES DE BRESSE IN LOUHANS
The volaille de Bresse festival takes place in midDecember. Four dates in four Bresse cities, including a
festive weekend in Louhans, culminate with the annual
AOC poultry beauty contest.
www.glorieusesdebresse.com
63
All Roads Lead to...
Burgundy
It’s easily reached by road too
As a result of the N6’s many years as one of
France’s most important trunk roads passing
through the heart of Burgundy, Beaune has
emerged as a major European road junction.
New highways have increased access,
including the A77 serving Nevers, the A40 to
the Alps and the A39 which crosses Bresse.
Burgundy’s location could hardly be better, right at the heart of Europe
and just 90 minutes from Paris by train. In fact, France’s network of
high-speed trains (TGV) provides fast and frequent service from Paris to
a number of Burgundian cities.
Direct train (TGV) connection from
Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport
CDG Airport > Dijon or Le CreusotMontceau-Montchanin
every evening of the week.
Dijon or Le Creusot-MontceauMontchanin > CDG Airport
every morning of the week.
TGV Rhin-Rhône
Map credit: ©Divine Comédie/Laura Margueritte
Zurich > Dijon in 2½ hours
Basel > Dijon in 1½ hours
Other connections on the TGV Lyria
Lausanne >
Bern +
Dijon in 2 hours
> Dijon in 3 hours
For information and reservations,
visit www.raileurope.com
NEARBY AIRPORTS
> Dole Jura
Dole Jura is easily reached in just 40 minutes from Dijon
(via the A39) and 35 minutes from Beaune (on the A36).
www.aeroportdolejura.com
> Paris (Roissy Charles de Gaulle and Orly)
> Lyon (Saint-Exupéry)
> Basel-Mulhouse (EuroAirport)
> Geneva (Cointrin)
Dijon, the capital city, is an important rail hub, with TGV connections from Paris, Lorraine,
Lausanne, Lille, Lyon and the Mediterranean (Marseille, Nice, Montpellier). The Rhine-Rhone TGV also
wheels in at high velocity from Franche-Comté and Alsace allowing for easy access from Switzerland
and Germany.
64
65
Véronique B
eigenger
Press O
fficer
v.beigeng
[email protected]
Tel : +33(0 -bourgogne.fr
)3 80 280
298
Véronique Beigenger is your press officer and your first point of contact in Burgundy. Smiling, she
bends over backwards to make you feel welcome in this beautiful Burgundian region, whether you’re
alone or part of a group.
The website www.bourgogne-tourisme-pro.com includes a media center through which press releases
and media kits can be found and downloaded.
See you soon in Burgundy!
Also look for us on Facebook and Twitter by visiting www.burgundy-tourism.com
Legal Notices
Editorial Director:
Didier Martin, President of Bourgogne Tourisme
Graphic Design:
Delphine Ormancey, Un Brin Graphik
Publisher: Bourgogne Tourisme
BP 20623, 21006 Dijon, France
Tel: +33 (0)3 80 280 280
www.bourgogne-tourisme.com
Illustrations: Sarah Humblin
Photos: Alain Doire, Bourgogne Tourisme
Printer: Manufacture des deux Ponts,
5 rue des Condamines, 38320 Bresson, France
Design: Divine Comédie
Translation: Ethan Gelber / Eugenio Raez
Editing:
Patrick Lebas, Divine Comédie
January 2016
66
67