WWD Jan 15 - Wwrsd.org

DAILY EDITION 15 JANUARY 2016 Fashion. Beauty. Business.
1
Top Line
Burberry and
Richemont were
both hurt by jittery
tourists, helped by
mainland China in
the third quarter.
Spaced Out
Y-3 and Virgin
Page 3
Galactic team up to create
a space-apparel system.
Page 4
Fall
Collections
2016
Dun Deal
Peter Dundas will begin the shows in Milan by unveiling his men’s wear
collection for Roberto Cavalli. His effort will seek to keep the signature of
the house intact while moving the line in a more modern direction.
Photograph by PIOTR NIEPSUJ
For more on the Milan men’s shows, see pages 5 to 11.
Surviving Milan
Eat, drink, shop, relax: Hot
spots to hit during fashion
week. Page 11
3
15 JANUARY 2016
BUSINESS
Burberry,
Richemont
See Shifts
In Revenues
● Hong Kong, Macau remain
problematic for both firms.
BY SAMANTHA CONTI
Jittery tourists, unseasonably warm
weather and declining sales in Hong Kong
and Macau stung two of the luxury industry’s biggest names, while the Mainland
Chinese consumer made a surprise comeback in the key third quarter.
Burberry Group and Compagnie
Financière Richemont both flagged uneven
tourist patterns as a drag on sales in the
third quarter on Wednesday, near the time
when a shopping area in Jakarta, Indonesia, was attacked by terrorists leaving at
least seven dead. Earlier this week a suicide bomber killed 10 people, most of them
German tourists, in central Istanbul, near
the Blue Mosque, a popular attraction.
International travel warnings remain in
place, with an alert for U.S. citizens lasting
until Feb. 24. French fashion’s governing
body said it was working with police to
step up security ahead of the upcoming
men’s wear and couture shows later this
month.
Burberry said in its trading statement
that third-quarter results fell short of internal expectations, remaining flat at reported
rates and increasing 1 percent on an underlying basis. Sales in the October to December period were 603 million pounds, or
$917 million at average exchange for the
period in question, in what chief creative
and chief executive officer Christopher
Bailey called “a tougher environment than
expected” for the luxury sector as a whole.
The company attributed its shortfall to
the repeated devaluation of the yuan, the
warm winter weather, political instability
in the Middle East, and “uncertain” tourist
patterns developing since the November
terrorist attacks in Paris. Burberry saw
a decline in sales following the atrocity,
which left 130 dead and hundreds injured,
and Carol Fairweather, Burberry’s chief
financial officer, added that it “affected sentiment generally, and in terms of tourism.”
Richemont, with its core business in very
high-end watches and jewelry, saw sales
increase 3 percent on a reported basis, and
decrease 4 percent in constant currencies
for the quarter.
Both companies pointed to a revival in
domestic Mainland Chinese consumption,
and the continued shrinkage of business
in Hong Kong and Macau. Once glittering,
high-margin markets for both brands,
Hong Kong and Macau have lost their luster
due to political troubles and a decline in
Mainland Chinese tourism.
During a conference call, Burberry’s
Fairweather said accessories had been
more resilient than apparel against the
tougher macroeconomic backdrop,
with the brand’s new rucksack, Banner
bag, small leather goods and scarves all
performing strongly alongside ponchos,
dresses and the new, lightweight cashmere
trench.
Fairweather called the contracting business in Hong Kong and Macau “severely
damaging” to the company’s third-quarter
results. She also noted that Burberry’s
stores in Hong Kong, however, remain
profitable and that the brand is taking steps
to manage its costs as it works on getting
customers through the door and spending
on big-ticket items.
The Europe, Middle East and Africa
region saw midsingle-digit growth with
strong performance in Italy, Spain and
Germany, which Fairweather attributed to
a combination of tourists and a return to
growth among domestic, continental European customers. Italy and Spain continued
to deliver growth in excess of 20 percent,
while France slowed.
The U.K., which accounts for more than
one-third of the region’s retail revenue,
RETAIL
Sears to Close Some Stores
● Company’s factored accounts
primarily involve apparel
vendors.
BY VICKI M. YOUNG
WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM LISA LOCKWOOD
Sears Holdings Corp. has store closures in
mind for the first quarter.
“We will be closing some Kmart and Sears
stores in various cities across the country,”
a spokesman said. He declined to disclose
the number of stores that will be shuttered,
noting only that “it’s a very small percentage” of the company’s store count and that
the doors impacted will be primarily Kmart
sites. As of the third quarter ended Oct. 31,
Sears Holdings operated 952 Kmart stores
and 735 Sears stores.
“The store closures are part of a series
of actions we’re taking to reduce on-going
expenses, adjust our asset base, and accelerate the transformation of our business
became more challenging the company
said, with a slowdown from traveling customers, primarily from China and the Middle East. The trend is most likely related to
the strength of the pound compared with
the euro.
Burberry said the growth in Mainland China came from a combination of
increased footfall and conversion rates,
helping to offset a comparable sales
decline in Hong Kong that was more than
20 percent. Fairweather said the growth
in Mainland China was also underpinned
by the brand’s holiday program, which
featured a marketing film based on “Billy
Elliot,” and starring the likes of Sir Elton
John, Naomi Campbell, James Corden and
Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.
Richemont said trading in the Asia-Pacific region continued to be challenging. It
said the rate of sales growth continued to
improve in Mainland China, where Hong
Kong and Macau both reported significantly lower sales.
The firm’s European growth was tarnished by the Paris terrorist attacks: Compared to the first six months of the current
year, the company said the slowdown in
third-quarter sales “largely reflected weak
trading in Europe,” due to lower levels of
tourism.
Third-quarter revenues at the parents
of brands including Cartier, Van Cleef &
Arpels, Panerai and Dunhill totaled 2.93
billion euros, or $3.21 billion.
Jewelry continued to enjoy growth
across most regions and product categories, partly compensating for weak
demand for watches.
Sales in the Americas region continued
to be subdued, while growth in Japan
pressed on, albeit at a lower rate, than
during the first six months, largely due
to increasingly challenging comparatives
and seasonal factors, in particular Chinese
tourism, Richemont said.
The Middle East and Africa continued to
show limited growth.
Looking ahead, both Richemont and
Burberry conceded that the challenging
trading environment is likely to prevail in
the final quarter, ending March 31.
Richemont noted that its operating
profit for the year as a whole will also be
negatively affected on a comparative basis
by a non-recurring property disposal gain,
while net profit for the year will benefit on
a comparative basis from the non-cash gain
relating to the creation of Yoox Net-a-porter Group.
Burberry, meanwhile, said it expects
adjusted profit before tax for the full year
ending March 31 to be broadly in line with
market forecasts, and supported by a
further reduction in management bonuses,
additional discretionary cost savings, and a
boost from foreign exchange rates.
Fairweather said that during the last few
months Burberry had identified a further 5
million pounds, or $7.2 million, in savings,
in addition to the 20 million pounds, or
$29 million, already announced.
All currency conversions are at average
exchange rates for the periods in question.
model,” the spokesman said.
Separately, market and financial sources
have voiced concern about whether orders
to Sears would be approved by factors. On
Thursday, sources said at least one unnamed
factor has elected not to approve an order,
although a credit analyst said it was likely
because the financing firm had no other
exposure to the retailer and “didn’t want to
get back in.” Factors that are still approving
orders to Sears for the most part have been
checking orders on a case-by-case basis for
several quarters now.
Apparel vendors are concerned that
there could be a tightening of credit lines in
connection with Sears accounts or a higher
FASHION
Paris to
Step Up
Security at
Upcoming
Shows
● The men’s shows are slated to
run from Jan. 20 to 24,
and couture displays from
Jan. 24 to 28.
BY LAURE GUILBAULT
With Paris still on edge following terror
attacks last November that killed 130
people, “a very special attention” will
be paid to safety during the upcoming
men’s wear and couture shows, French
fashion’s governing body said.
The Paris men’s shows are slated to
run from Jan. 20 to 24, and the couture
displays from Jan. 24 to 28.
“There’s a close cooperation between
the Fédération and its members,
the state services and Paris police
prefecture,” Pascal Morand, executive
president of the Fédération française
de la Couture du Prêt à Porter des
Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode
explained to WWD. “Recent tragic
events induce us to increase vigilance.”
Morand noted police stations in
arrondissements where shows are being
held would be implicated.
Among recommendations that the
federation has made to the houses are
the control of identification cards and
bag checks at catwalk venues. How
the measures will be implemented
will depend on the houses and the
venues, Morand said, noting details
aren’t revealed deliberately so as not to
undermine their efficacy.
“Security of our guests is always a
priority, in any context,” a spokesperson
for Chanel said. “Chanel is working
closely with the police prefecture and
state services and will reinforce its
security plan in accordance with safety
instructions of the authorities.”
For the time being, shows’ locations
aren’t listed on the official schedule, up
on modeaparis.com. Instead, it reads:
“See invitation.”
Some 500 journalists have been
accredited for Paris men’s shows and 700
for the couture’s collections, numbers
that are roughly in line with January
2015, according to the Fédération, noting
that doesn’t mean all will come.
surcharge from factors.
A separate Sears spokesman said the company has significant financial flexibility and
the means to meet its obligations to vendors.
“We’ve had no material interruptions in the
flow of goods to our company,” he said. “We
have the financial resources to deal with
vendors directly,” noting that the company
communicates with its suppliers regularly.
He added that “less than 3 percent of our
gross inventory is factored, [representing]
a very small percentage of Sears Holding
Corp.’s overall business.” He also acknowledged that the factoring is in connection
with the apparel side of the business where
the vendors are typically smaller in size.
4
Fashion
Scoops
A NEW MAN
There’s been a changing of the guard
in Bloomingdale’s fashion office. Justin
Berkowitz has joined the retailer as fashion
director of men’s. He will report to Kevin
Harter, vice president for fashion direction
of men’s and home. He succeeds Josh Peskowitz, who recently left Bloomingdale’s to
open his own men’s store in Los Angeles.
That shop, Magasin, a new men’s multibrand store, is expected to open on Feb.
20. Berkowitz was most recently senior
market editor for Details, and previously
held editorial positions at Teen Vogue and
Marie Claire. — JEAN E. PALMIERI
BLAST FROM THE PAST
Tiny tiaras served up on platters greeted
guests at the Nasty Gal West Hollywood
store Wednesday evening. They were
there to toast the launch of the Nasty Gal
collaboration with Courtney Love — Love,
Courtney by Nasty Gal. News first broke of
the 18-piece collection late last year on Instagram causing a stir among die-hard fans.
But in the stockroom at the back of the
store Love and Nasty Gal founder Sophia
Amoruso said so many styles were left out
that there could be a sequel in the works.
“We’re talking about it,” Love told WWD.
Amoruso added: “If there’s demand. I
mean, it feels really good. It was so easy
and there’s so much left to do. There’s a lot
of Courtney kind of touch points that we
didn’t even cover, like shipwreck Courtney
and flapper Courtney and Peter Pan-collar
Courtney.” What debuted is a collection
of shoes and apparel ranging from $48
to $188 and includes some of the usual
suspects from the Nineties, modernized as
Love explained. There’s mary janes jazzed
up on the heel with sparkling rhinestones
and a baby doll slipdress, which Love wore
to the party and described as more of an
“old school” look. That’s in addition to lace
underwear, a pair of stilettos, a full lace
bodysuit and a satin maxi slipdress with
lace detailing.
The nine-month project stemmed from
Love’s own desire to do something in
fashion that was successful. “I was making
nut-job clothes,” Love said. “Seriously, I was
cutting up Edwardian dresses and putting
them with Twenties dresses and it cost me
a fortune. I wasn’t going to sell them but
I really, really wanted to get into fashion.”
Love’s agent suggested teaming with
Amoruso and, at the urging of her daughter and after reading Amoruso’s book,
“#GirlBoss,” she felt a collaboration made
sense. “It was a big team effort,” Love said.
“[Amoruso] has a good, tight ship and runs
it very well and it was really fun and as
Sophia used the word today, it was sort of
effortless.” — KARI HAMANAKA
Several
designers are
showing on the
runway during
London Fashion
Weekend.
FASHION
British Designers to Stage
Consumer-Facing Shows
●
London Fashion Weekend
is gaining momentum as
consumers take charge.
BY LORELEI MARFIL
LONDON — In an effort to cozy up to the
end consumer, several British designers
are staging runway shows during London
Fashion Weekend, which takes place on
Feb. 25, two days after the end of London
Fashion Week.
The move comes at a time when the
fashion show system is being rethought
by numerous designers and brands,
especially in New York. As reported, the
Council of Fashion Designers of America
has commissioned Boston Consulting
Group to explore the viability and logistics
of consumer-oriented fashion weeks.
The London event, to be held at the
Saatchi Gallery near Sloane Square, will
feature Emilia Wickstead, Holly Fulton,
Mary Katrantzou and Temperley London.
The BFC plans to showcase one designer per
day, with the runway show repeated about
two to four times throughout the day.
According to a BFC spokesman, the event
has “seen an increase in interest from both
global and British brands to be involved
with London Fashion Weekend, as the event
offers the opportunity to reach a targeted
and focused consumer audience of more
than 16,000 people.”
While the British Fashion Council
has received requests from designers to
participate, they have limited themselves
to highlighting one designer per day. This
allows the brand to “own the day, and it
ensures maximum eyeballs on the collection,” he added. Last season’s edition saw
Christopher Raeburn, House of Holland,
Issa London and Peter Pilotto showcase
their collections.
Raeburn, who presented his fall 2015 collection, said it was a prime opportunity to
test the waters directly with consumers. “It
was a very positive and professional experience,” Raeburn said. “I was able to do an
interview beforehand discussing the brand,
which delivered a more informed approach
and generated a stronger reaction from the
public. Staging the catwalk show enabled
us to open up opportunities to expand our
visibility and presence as a brand, and it
worked well as it continued to showcase the
fall collection as it was dropping into store.”
This was Raeburn’s first consumer catwalk show and the designer noted he would
be open to participating again.
Henry Holland also joined Raeburn,
showing his line the same year.
“We decided to take part, as I’m interested in refocusing catwalk presentations to
be a more consumer-facing event. London
Fashion Weekend is the only event of its
kind that is working on this,” Holland said.
“I personally feel like fashion shows are no
longer a closed industry event exclusively
for buyers and the press,” he told WWD.
“Social media means that images from the
shows appear in your customers’ timeline
the minute they happen in real time. As
such, showcasing collections that are immediately available seem to me to be the future
of the fashion show.
“Our experience was great, we definitely
felt an uplift in social media traction around
the weekend — and also afterward. It is hard
to collect clear sales data, but last season we
launched men’s wear on the LC:M schedule
with the collection made available in store
and online, alongside the presentation. I feel
like from a business proposition this time
line makes sense.”
Holland believes consumer shows are the
future of fashion. “We saw Marc Jacobs and
Givenchy both involve their consumers last
fashion week. House of Holland also invited
100 of our best consumers to our show
in September, as I feel like ultimately the
marketing and money spent on these events
is ultimately to generate consumer interest
and interaction — and sales.”
Recently, London Fashion Week has seen
designers including Tom Ford, Thomas
Tait and Hunter explore new ways of
reaching their customers. Tom Ford has
experimented with different formats,
including a fashion film featuring Lady Gaga
directed by Nick Knight. Thomas Tait plans
to renounce his London catwalk show in
favor of one-on-one presentations in Paris,
while Hunter’s plans include reaching its
audience through music festivals and
retail stores.
“Over recent years, there have been many
conversations about how we blur lines
between London Fashion Week and London
Fashion Weekend, as designers increase
consumer engagement in shows through
social, live-streaming and, for a select few,
the show experience,” Caroline Rush told
WWD last year.
“There is no doubt in future seasons
these lines will blur even more as designers
opt to do in-season shows. However, we
need to ensure those businesses that rely
on platforms such as fashion weeks to reach
new wholesale partners and media continue
to have the opportunity to do so.”
The biannual, four-day consumer event,
held at the Saatchi Gallery, will host runway
shows, designer talks, shopping galleries
and trends presentations. The shopping
area will see 150 brands on sale, including
Fyodor Golan, J. JS Lee, Linda Farrow,
Mawi, Paper London, Pringle of Scotland
and Osman.
The event will host a series of designer
talks with fashion industry figures, including
Charlotte Olympia’s Charlotte Dellal, Emilia
Wickstead, Katharine Hamnett, Nicholas
Kirkwood, Pam Hogg and Premier Models
founder Carole White.
Launched in 1998, the event was created
to help designers clear their merchandise.
Recently, the British Fashion Council has
curated the initiative with a consumer focus.
Ticket prices range from 20 pounds, or $28,
for a bronze ticket to 145 pounds, or $208,
for a luxe ticket.
FASHION
Y-3, Virgin Galactic Collaborate on Space Apparel
●
Y-3 has revealed a pilot flight
suit and prototype flight boot.
Adam Wells and
Lawrence Midwood
with a flight suit.
BY LISA LOCKWOOD
Courtney Love and
Sophia Amoruso at
the Nasty Gal store
in West Hollywood.
Y-3, a fashion collaboration between
Adidas and Yohji Yamamoto, has forged
a partnership with Virgin Galactic, for a
space-apparel system for Virgin Galactic’s pilots, future astronauts and the
operations team in Spaceport America.
Y-3 unveiled a prototype of the pilot
flight suit and a prototype flight boot at
Spaceport America in New Mexico, home
to Virgin Galactic’s Gateway to Space
terminal. The flight suit is being designed
to fully support a pilot’s natural seating
position as identified through a series of
tests and trials with the Virgin Galactic
pilot corps.
The flight suit is constructed from
Nomex Meta Aramid materials through a
3-D engineered pattern.
Lawrence Midwood, senior director
and designer at Y-3, said, “Space travel
is one of the most exciting developments
of our generation….The pilot flight suit
prototype that we have developed truly
represents both of our brands and, more
importantly, will ensure comfort, functionality and support for the pilots of the
world’s first commercial space flights.” In
addition to the pilot flight suit and boot,
a bespoke limited-edition Y-3 and Virgin
Galactic partnership jacket has also been
revealed.
Y-3 photograph by Nathan Gallagher; Love and Amoruso by Getty Images; Models courtesy of the British Fashion Council
15 JANUARY 2016
5
15 JANUARY 2016
Pitti
The Personalization of
Brunello
Cucinelli
DESIGNER: Brunello
Cucinelli
INSPIRATION: In keeping
with previous seasons,
the luxury brand aims
to blend formalwear
with casual elements
to deliver an effortless,
elegant wardrobe.
KEY STYLE: Tailored
double-breasted jackets
in traditional men’s
patterns pair with
ripped denim pants,
while sartorial trousers
coordinate with soft
sweaters with a relaxed
fit as well as T-shirts.
The brand also delivers
a range of outerwear,
from tailored coats to
precious yet sporty
shearling hooded
jackets with zippers. The
color palette focuses
on gray, brown and
blue tones with some
accents of dark red and
purple.
Furla
DESIGNER: Fabio Fusi
INSPIRATION: In an effort
to become a lifestyle
brand — and a year after
it launched a men’s division — the family-owned
company continues to
expand beyond handbags with footwear,
scarves, eyewear and
small leather goods.
Fusi insisted “all styles
are trans-generational
and genderless,” and
the line is particularly
successful in Asia,
where the firm is
slated to set up its first
freestanding men’s-only
store in the second half
of 2016, according to
chief executive officer
Eraldo Poletto. Japan
accounts for 25 percent
of its total business.
KEY STYLES: The label’s
totes have emerged as
bestsellers. They come
with multiple compartments for techies, some
are reversible for more
color options and others, such as the “007,”
can be stacked one on
top of the other.
PRICES: Bags start at
$531; shoes retail from
$260.
David Marc
DESIGNERS: Marco Efrati
and David di Porto
INSPIRATION: Founded
in 2013, this eyewear
label is strictly made
in Italy — by hand, in
two tiny factories in
Veneto, where artisans
infuse the styles with a
vintage look. “If it’s not
handmade, I don’t see
the point of doing it in
Italy. But I think people
today have a perception
of value. They want to
know what they are
paying for,” Efrati said.
The materials, such
as acetate, leather
and hypoallergenic
stainless steel, are
sourced locally — with
the exception of Zeiss
lenses, which come with
an antiscratch coating.
KEY STYLES: The Johnny,
a round multicolored
frame, and the Alberto,
which boasts a dainty
leather frame, have
emerged as bestsellers.
PRICES: From $172
Grenson/4
DESIGNERS: Tim Little,
owner of Grenson; Shinsuke Takizawa, founder
of Neighborhood, and
Kazuki Kuraishi, founder
of The Fourness.
INSPIRATION: The three
designers teamed with
the Grenson factory to
create a brand called 4,
representing the four
parties involved. They
created four shoe styles
in four different color-
ways, inspired by the
company’s triple-welt
classics, handmade in
the U.K.
KEY STYLES: The new
models are reinterpretations of Grenson’s
toe-cap derby boot,
the monkey boot, a tall
derby workboot and a
derby shoe. Colorful
elastic gussets add pop
and encourage “sneaker-type of people like me
to discover the beauty
of well-made shoes,” as
Kuraishi put it.
PRICES: $575 to $592
● Customization was the
buzzword at the fall edition of
the men’s wear fair.
By PAULINA SZMYDKE,
ALESSANDRA TURRA and ALEX BADIA
Photographs by JASON JEAN
Arts and craft ruled at Pitti Uomo, the
bellwether men’s wear fair, which ended
its four-day run here on Friday.
The trend was perhaps less of an homage
to the city’s artisan heritage than an opportunity for struggling retailers to reinvigorate
their offerings, as customers are increasingly spending their money in online channels rather than conventional retail stores.
“It was a pretty tough season for most
retailers. The desire for reinvention is high
and that makes Pitti so relevant,” noted
Josh Peskowitz, cofounder of Magasin, a
new men’s multibrand store in Los Angeles, slated to open Feb. 20. “Exclusivity
and customization are really important
today, and crafts and arts can help with
that. It’s like the farm-to-table food movement. People are starting to treat clothing
in the same way.”
Grenson brand director Joe Hutchings
said made-to-order and designer collaborations have risen significantly in the company’s own U.K. factories, which will mark
their 160th anniversary this year. “Retailers
need a point of difference and customized styles give people something to talk
about,” he noted, adding that in July, the
firm would set up a “school” to explain
to clients how its shoes are produced and
allow them to be personalized.
To help buyers pick the cherries, Pitti
expanded the “Make” section of the fair
with a group of 43 craftsmen it scouted
from around the world, including Title of
Work. The label said its handcrafted jewelry made in New York grew to 30 percent
of its offering, up from 10 percent only 18
months ago. “Fall has been our best season
yet,” said designer Jonathan Meizler, who
cited local production as an asset for
smaller, short-term deliveries.
Paris-based neckwear specialist Maison
F, whose business dates to the 17th century, said exports rose 42 percent. “Everybody says ties are in free fall, but we don’t
see that. As long as they are different, they
sell,” said François-Régis Laporte, Maison
F’s creative head.
Hirofumi Kurino, United Arrows’ creative
director, agreed that craftsmanship is on the
upswing. “It is a solution for men’s fashion.
People will still buy expensive clothing, but
they need a reason for it. Fabric, production and history are becoming very important,” he said, lauding this season’s fair for
its diverse offering, although he noted that
traditional tailoring was on the losing end.
“We are going back to our roots for fall, to
the rustic side of fashion: tweed, alpaca,
mohair — all the hairy fabrics — and warm
colors such as orange, burgundy and the
full range of browns will be key. Knitwear
is very strong because of [climate change],
and so is functional wear,” he said.
The fair’s arty theme was right up Eric
Jennings’ alley. The vice president and
men’s fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, which is slated to open several doors,
including a men’s-only venue in Manhattan
in 2017, was stocking up on “anything that
would animate the new stores.” “We have
connected with a lot of people in the Make
section. We are also looking for a shoe
repair service and grooming kits — so, not
just apparel but lifestyle elements that
would create a moment of surprise.”
Kurino, meanwhile, revealed that United
Arrows would set up its second Tokyo flagship in the city’s upscale Roppongi district
in September. “It will be four times as large
as the existing one and stock higher-priced
items. We will also put in place an elite
service team…because at the end of the
day, what counts is merchandising and
presentation.”
6
Victorinox
INSPIRATION: The Swiss
army knife-maker is
growing its apparel
business, hoping to
generate low double-digit increases in the
division in coming years,
according to Jason Gallen, president of global
fashion. Outerwear, its
best-selling category,
currently represents 30
percent of total volume,
followed by woven shirts
15 JANUARY 2016
and sweaters.
KEY STYLES: For fall, the
The
Reviews
brand is venturing into
ath-leisure with laser-cut and water-repellent sweatshirts; it’s also
launching denim. The
traditional five-pocket
styles in 11.5 oz. and dark
washes are made in U.S.
and in collaboration with
Reprieve, which turns
recycled plastic bottles
into new product.
PRICES: Denim sells for
$165 a pair. Ath-leisure
items range from $125
to $195.
Blauer
Champion
by Beams
DESIGNER: Enzo Fusco
INSPIRATION: The North
INSPIRATION: The brand
American outerwear
specialist, acquired
by Italian FGF Industry
in 2001, is marking its
80th anniversary with a
capsule collection.
KEY STYLES: Building on
the brand's tradition,
the capsule includes 20
signature men’s pieces
with a vintage flair,
including a police jacket,
soft sweaters, T-shirts
and denim pants in different washes. Colors
range from navy to
mélange gray with neon
green accents.
PRICES: From $55 for
T-shirts to $306 for
outerwear.
and Japanese retailer
teamed up to present
a collection of classic
sportswear staples in
sweatshirt fleece.
KEY STYLES: The lineup,
available in light gray
or black, features a
reedition of Champion’s
signature “Reverse
Weave” sweatshirt, now
presented in a version
with a high-tech coating
that makes the piece
water-repellent. The
collection also includes
varsity jackets, bombers, T-shirts and slouchy
pants, all with minimalist
styling.
PRICES: $66 to $273
The
Sartorialist
by Roy
Roger’s
Schuman
INSPIRATION: Italian
denim specialist Roy
Roger’s has joined
forces with street-style
photographer Scott
Schuman of The Sartorialist to create two
capsule collections. The
first launched at Pitti
Uomo this week.
KEY STYLES: Infused with
a Seventies’-inspired
vibe, the fall capsule
includes pieces crafted
from high-end materials.
Schuman created a
shrunken suede bomber, which he paired with
high-waisted, slightly
flared denim pants and
a fitted wool turtleneck
sweater. A parka with a
utilitarian feel is offered
in an oversize silhouette.
PRICES: Jeans are $217;
shirts and jackets sell
for $164 and $1,093,
respectively.
MC2 Saint
Barth
DESIGNER: Massimiliano
Ferrari
INSPIRATION: Established
in 1994, the brand offers
numerous beachwear
options featuring bold,
playful prints, for men,
women and children.
For fall, MC2 Saint Barth
teamed up with Italian
fashion power consultant Olmes Carretti, the
creative mind behind
some of the brands
that characterized the
Eighties and Nineties,
like Best Company and
Henry-Lloyd, to develop
a signature outerwear
piece.
KEY STYLE: Available in
two different fabrics
and in several color variations, including bright
primary tones as well
as military green and
light blue, “The Voyager”
is an urban jacket with
a sporty feel. Inspired
by sailing styles, this
Windbreaker is crafted
from water-repellent
materials and includes
polyurethane inserts, a
thermo-stitched hood
and big, functional front
pockets.
PRICES: “The Voyager,”
retailing for $294 at
select multibrand stores
as well as the brand’s
boutiques.
Knitbrary
DESIGNER: Yolanda
Estévez
INSPIRATION: Founded
in 2011 in La Coruña,
Spain, the brand, which
is carried in about 200
international stores,
offers luxury handcrafted knitwear made from
precious yarns sourced
from around the world.
KEY STYLES: For fall,
the brand focused on
Peru, where Knitbrary
enrolled local artisans
to handcraft sweaters
in alpaca and vicuña.
These include supersoft
styles in a chic combination of baby blue
and brown, as well as
an extra-thick option,
weighing around four
pounds, worked in a
mélange of green and
brown hues.
PRICES: $874 to $3,824
at retail
Juun.J
Pitti Uomo guest designer
Juun.J gave his spirited fall
collection a futuristic spin,
sending out a gang of daredevils
clad in embossed, heavy
leather, felted wool and lots
of shearling rendered in his
signature pumped-up volumes.
Cropped leather tops
harkening back at football’s
protective gear and padded
numbers, including sleeveless
biker jackets and matching
pants, infused the dynamic
lineup with an imminent sense
of battle, while almost every
item came with a concise,
one-word message printed
or embossed on the fabric.
“Genderless,” “boundary-less”
and “paradigm-less,” they
proclaimed in Twitter-friendly
fashion.
Elsewhere — in keeping
with the city’s traditions —
the designer paid homage to
Florentine tailoring via long
and luscious soft-shouldered
coats. As they were partially
sliced into panels and mixed
with extralong scarves, they let
off an air of fetish elegance with
a “Matrix” vibe.
“[This is] my vision of the
future, a kind of post-chaos city,
[where] the remaining people
wear this,” Juun.J said of his
apocalyptically tinged show.
A lack of color further fed
into the somber, cyberpunk
mood. — Paulina Szmydke
Juun.J photograph by Giovanni Giannoni
DESIGNER: Scott
7
15 JANUARY 2016
TWEED
TEXTURES
Wooster +
Lardini
KNIT
BLAZERS
Falke
MILITARY
Norwegian Rain
COLORBLOCKED
SNEAKERS
Filling Pieces
WOOL
GEOMETRIC
TIES
Breuer
PITTI UOMO:
TRENDS
The categories that will
move the needle for fall.
Photographs by JASON JEAN
Adidas photograph by Giovanni Giannoni
White
Mountaineering
× Adidas
Originals
If you ask Yosuke Aizawa, it’s all
about the stripes.
During a preview of his secondseason collaboration with Adidas
Originals, for fall, the designer
admitted he’s been obsessed
with making the German brand’s
trademark look “fashionable.”
So he used the three stripes as
patterns on knitted V-neck sweaters
and as embellishments on technical
overcoats — the ones guys (or girls
for that matter) often crave on their
way back from the gym in the city.
There was a handsome take on
the traditional tracksuit, which
Aizawa revved up via clever
layering — cue a nylon tunic worn
over a pair of compression pants,
topped with a retro-tinged sweater.
The season’s separates offered
plenty of salable options, which
the team lit up by an impeccable
choreography of rotating neon
triangles.
Though the collection could
have used a stronger fashion spin,
it stayed true to Adidas’ rich,
athletic heritage through a novel
style of the recently launched NMD
sneaker as well as a new take on
the brand’s SeeUlater shoe from
the Nineties. Its chunky sole spiced
up with a Primeknit upper will
surely make a speedy segue to city
streets and country alike.
— Paulina Szmydke
SOFT
HATS
Satya
Twena
FLAT
LENSES
Kyme
OVERSIZE
BACKPACKS
Filson
NINETIES
SILHOUETTES
Pringle of
Scotland
UNCONSTRUCTED
COATS
Cini Venezia
8
15 JANUARY 2016
BUSINESS
New Money,
New Attitude
from its peers because, in addition to the
resources, it also has operative and industrial expertise.
Here, he discusses the way private
equity funds can help brands get to the
next level.
● Francesco Trapani of
investment firm Clessidra says
small to midsize Italian firms
are realizing the need for new
skill sets — and funding — to
thrive in today’s environment.
What are Clessidra’s assets and
strengths?
Clessidra is a different animal in the
private equity arena, compared with others, as it has financial as well as corporate
and industrial expertise. Medium-sized
Italian companies need experience not
only in finance, but they also have to map
out objectives, strategies, operations and
expand in other countries such as China,
launching products with a 360-degree
vision. Clessidra is particularly interesting
for medium-sized companies.
Could this lack of operative vision be
the cause for Italy’s dearth of luxury
conglomerates?
The most important stall comes from the
individualism typical of Italians, which has
prevented anyone from putting together a
big group. I myself talked a lot with families before selling [Bulgari] to LVMH, but in
the end did not succeed — they are afraid
of losing control. This is still the case now,
but to put together a luxury group today
would need a structure that is not feasible.
If someone decides to sell, it would be
difficult to buy because the big international groups, from LVMH and Kering to
Richemont and Qatar, would not allow it,
By LUISA ZARGANI
It may not have turned into love yet, but
Italian entrepreneurs and designers are
shedding some of their proverbial wariness
toward finance and private equity funds.
Recent transactions include some of the
top luxury goods names in the country,
from Valentino and Versace to Roberto
Cavalli and Buccellati.
In 2014, Qatar-based Mayhoola for
Investments acquired its first men’s wearonly Italian luxury brand, Pal Zileri, from
a group of Italian entrepreneurs, including
the Barizza, Bellet, Miola and Ghiringhelli
families, two years after buying Valentino
from Permira. Emir Sheikh Hamad bin
Khalifa Al-Thani also bought the Four
Seasons hotel in Florence from brothers
Marcello and Corrado Fratini.
Tamburi Investment Partners SpA, or
TIP, in 2014 closed a fund-raising initiative through its new Tipo branch, taking
minority stakes in midsized Italian firms
to help them grow, acting as a figurative
“glue,” said president and chief executive
officer Giovanni Tamburi. In 2013, TIP
invested in Ruffini’s holding company,
Ruffini Partecipazioni, indirectly buying
a stake in Moncler, which went public at
the end of 2013. Ruffini also allowed The
Carlyle Group into Moncler in 2008, selling
a 48 percent stake to help grow the brand
exponentially. Carlyle exited in June 2014.
One of Italy’s most famous fashion
families, the Versaces, agreed to sell a 20
percent stake to Blackstone Group in 2014,
aiming to develop the brand globally and
go public. This strategy mirrors that of the
Cimmino family, who sold a 35 percent
stake in preppy brand Harmont & Blaine to
Italian private equity firm Clessidra SGR in
2014. Clessidra has been among the most
active funds, buying a 70 percent stake
in Milanese jewelry firm Buccellati from
various members of the Buccellati family
in 2013 and the Roberto Cavalli company
from the designer last April.
Why have Italian families been hesitant
before, and are now opening up to the
world of finance now? Francesco Trapani, a
shareholder and chairman at Clessidra, who
is also executive vice chairman of the fund
and chairman of Cavalli, thinks it has to do
with a traditional reluctance to cede control,
particularly with family-run businesses. But
these small to midsized firms are realizing
that in order to grow and thrive in today’s
fast-changing and ultracompetitive global
market, they need sophisticated managers,
new expertise — and additional funding.
Trapani, a former Bulgari ceo who was
also chairman of LVMH Moët Hennessy
Louis Vuitton’s watches and jewelry
division, believes Clessidra is in a unique
position, having cultivated the Italian
market for years, differentiating the fund
private equities but all with the same logic.
With Harmont & Blaine, we have 35 percent of the company, but we have a relative
majority, meaning each shareholder has
around 16 percent, so we can appoint the
ceo and financial director.
Clessidra was rumored to be eyeing
Versace, but the family did not want to
relinquish control. Is that why a deal
did not materialize?
Yes, I think Clessidra looked at the dossier, but that was before I joined. You can
never say never, we wouldn’t usually do a
minority operation, but if the company is
beautiful and not too expensive, why not?
In this case, it was a lot of money without
having a majority stake and this is not a fit
for Clessidra.
Could you identify Clessidra’s potential targets?
This is a country rich in small and
medium-sized companies, often competing against each other, and in fragmented
sectors. We intervene on succession issues
or flank companies on their investments.
They are usually domestic champions
based in Italy, but they already have an
international exposure.
We can either buy a single company or
develop business through the acquisition
of firms in the same sector. For example,
we publicly listed asset manager Anima,
but we created it, putting together many
different asset managers. In fashion, this
could be done on the production pipeline
or with companies that have licenses.
When and how does Clessidra generally exit its investments? Is the Bourse
the most logical exit?
Usually the cycle is three to five years.
To relaunch Cavalli, it may take five to six
years. As for the Bourse, it depends on the
moment and the sector, it’s unpredictable.
How has the market changed?
It’s increasingly a global market. More
than 30 years ago, if you traveled you
would see local brands or some luxury
label. Today it’s the opposite. Yes, the
market is bigger so there are more opportunities, but there is more competition,
business is more complex, so companies
need sophisticated managers and financial
means. For this reason, entrepreneurs are
more open to alliances than before, they
“The market is bigger so there are more
opportunities, but there is more competition,
business is more complex, so companies need
sophisticated managers and financial means.”
Francesco
Trapani
they have the financial means and they
invest to create synergies. Unless different
families fuse their activities.
Renzo Rosso is building his own
group with OTB, though?
This is different from luxury.
What drew you to Clessidra?
I had held executive roles for more than
30 years, so I was tempted by the opportunity to take on a more varied and entrepreneurial job. The LVMH experience was
extraordinary, Bernard Arnault is a fascinating businessman, with qualities outside of
the ordinary and very positive, but I wanted
to become once again in charge of my time.
Clessidra can be an interesting opportunity.
What are the motivations and guidelines behind Clessidra’s investments,
which appear quite diverse?
Clessidra is an opportunistic fund, with
a focus on Italy. We look at investments in
different industries wherever there is a creation of value. It’s normal for investments
to be different, but they are more similar
than they appear. Taking a majority stake
is our rule of thumb, and full governance is
generally our model, but there are exceptions. Such is the case with Istituto Banche
Popolari, a deal that involved different
are more available. I’ve seen the change
over the past 12 to 18 months. They know
this will allow them to become more
sophisticated and stronger in order to be
more aggressive.
Private equity funds can be an important tool also for those that want to keep
control. These can even let a fund in with a
51 percent stake, and then maybe go public
and the fund leaves with its stake and the
former owner buys it back. From the day
the fund entered and then exited, the
company has grown, is more solid and has
more means.
Is your third fund closed?
It’s operative, but it will close in March,
we are raising funds. We bought Cavalli,
[furniture and design in plastic firm]
Arredo Plast and ICBPI [CartaSi credit card
platform].
In its most recent study, Bain & Co.
and Fondazione Altagamma reported
that the jewelry category grew the
most in 2015. You have Buccellati, are
you looking at other jewelry brands?
We are eyeing many different sectors
from apparel to food and financial services, but we don’t have a jewelry label in
the pipeline at the moment.
9
15 JANUARY 2016
¬ Peuterey Studio, designed by
new creative director Federico Curradi, will make its debut in Milan on
Jan. 17 at the Neoclassical Palazzo
Serbelloni.
Chief executive officer Francesco
Pesci aims to create a comprehensive brand and expand Peuterey
globally. The arrival of Curradi in
November, he said, was intended “to
create more desirability around the
brand. He comes from the fashion
world, rather than the sportswear
arena, and knows how to create total
looks.”
Pesci lamented the “excessive
attention” paid to function and technical performance in the sportswear
segment, which he believes is not
enough to spur business. Instead,
Pesci wants to rebalance the label’s
sales, which are heavily skewed to
outerwear, to create year-round
demand.
And Curradi is the man to do it,
Pesci believes. Born in Florence in
1975, Curradi was previously men’s
wear creative director for Iceberg.
He lived in New York for several
years before moving back to Italy,
first working at Ermanno Daelli, then
as head of the men’s styling office
at Ermanno Scervino. In 2005, he
became head of the men’s collection
at Roberto Cavalli. A year later, he
Peuterey
Studio
MILAN:
O N E S T O WAT C H
New and noteworthy brands
at the Milan men’s shows.
Photographs by PIOTR NIEPSUJ
Roberto
Cavalli
Peter Dundas is going to reveal a piece
of himself at his debut men’s collection
for Roberto Cavalli. ¶ “I feel very
comfortable designing men’s,” he said,
“and I’m taking a very personal point of
view. I really created a wardrobe that I
wanted for myself and my friends.” ¶ The
Norwegian designer, who was appointed
creative director of the brand last March,
unveils his first men’s collection for
the Florentine label on Friday night in
Milan. ¶ “I took two angles in designing
the collection,” he explained. One is the
idea of creating a wardrobe that fits a
man’s needs and his personal aesthetic.
The other is music. ¶ “I looked at many
musicians, like Jimmy Page, Mick Jagger,
Keith Richard, Serge Gainsbourg, Jimi
Hendrix and also George Harrison — my
favorite of The Beatles,” he said. ¶ But
beyond that, the collection is rooted in
freedom, according to Dundas: “Freedom
is at the base of the spirit of the brand
and I want to keep the Cavalli vibe alive.”
¶ To stay contemporary, Dundas said the
lineup includes a range of pieces that
can be easily mixed and matched. “It’s
rich, a bit decadent, casual, effortless.
It doesn’t feel stiff,” he said, noting that
his goal is to “bring some casualness to
the brand [even] in moments of high
glamour.” ¶ To that point, jackets and
coats are decorated with gold and silver
embroideries, appliqués and patchwork
details. Many pieces are executed in
opulent jacquards. The designer also
worked in leather that had been treated
using varying techniques, as well as fur,
which he printed with animal patterns.
¶ In addition, Dundas created patterns
with flora and fauna elements inspired
by William Morris, used, for example, in
fluid shirts. ¶ The overall color palette of
the collection includes different tones
of purple along with earth hues and
muted shades. ¶ The accessories range
includes a bag featuring a guitarlike strap,
as well as high- and low-top sneakers and
booties in leopard patterns and solid
washed leathers that provide a livedin effect. ¶ “There is no complication,”
Dundas said. “This collection is very close
to my heart.” — ALESSANDRA TURRA
started working with Iceberg on the
company’s men’s wear as a fashion
and creative consultant. He was
appointed Iceberg’s first men’s wear
creative director in June 2013, but left
last November.
His line for Peuterey is all made in
Italy with sophisticated fabrics and
construction. The fall line targets
“two souls in symbiosis, a man who
thinks and works in the city,” setting
an “urban dynamism” at the heart of
the collection. The intellectual and
working worlds blend, as Curradi
focuses on the architect’s sphere.
Not by chance, the collection winks
at Gianfranco Ferré — himself an
architect — as well as Giorgio Armani
in the Eighties.
“This is a pleasant man, easy to
understand, and not conceptual. The
collection is a mix of technical and
sportswear for the everyday urban
hero,” said Curradi.
Technical wools contribute to the
functionality of parkas and blousons;
tailored overcoats and duffels have
internal straps that can be worn
as rucksacks; fustian blazers have
detachable linings and shearling
collars; knits exhibit mathematical
jacquards and geometric intarsia
inspired by Euclid’s theorems, while
patch pockets and tool belts or
collars round out the details.
Curradi created exclusive fabrics
for the collection that range from
double-faced, technical and diagonal
wools to nylon and gabardine in
a color palette of charcoal, rust,
military green and black.
— LUISA ZARGANI
10 15 JANUARY 2016
Lucio
Vanotti
¬ Lucio Vanotti will make his
runway debut at the Armani Theater
on Saturday.
“When they told me about the
possibility of showing there, I was
Pal
Zileri
¬ Italian tailoring label Pal Zileri
has taken the plunge. On Jan. 16, it
will host its first show on the Milan
Fashion Chamber’s official schedule,
featuring the collection from creative
director Mauro Ravizza Krieger.
“The idea behind the collection
is urban tailoring with a strong
focus on sportswear,” said Ravizza
Krieger, who joined the company last
January. “The aesthetic is rooted in
the company’s DNA. We wanted to
develop a collection focused on tailoring, but reinterpret it in a contemporary way in terms of proportions,
volume and materials.”
In keeping with the sartorial tradition of Vicenza, where the company
is based, coats and jackets are cut
in clean, rigid silhouettes. But they’re
softened by the more voluminous
shapes of the bottoms, including
relaxed, pleated pants. Silk shirts and
scarves add romantic accents.
In addition, Ravizza Krieger developed “luxury sportswear” worked
in comfortable, informal silhouettes
and crafted from traditional drapy
fabrics treated with special techniques such as wool with a protective coating, stretch wool and leather
accented with technical materials.
The rich color palette includes dark
tones of black, military green, purple,
brown, gray and rust, sometimes
juxtaposed with camel. — A.T.
happy because this collection is very
close to Giorgio Armani’s taste and
to the aesthetic of the location,” said
Vanotti, who launched his namesake
label in 2012. “I admire Armani’s work
and I see myself [as part of this]
Italian wave he created.”
For fall, Vanotti explored a universe
of uniforms, from military to religious
ones.
“The collection is infused with a
sense of severity that doesn’t only
refer to the military atmosphere, but
also evokes a sense of moral rigor,”
said the designer, who exhibits a
taste for graphic, essential shapes.
This season, he focuses on
elongated silhouettes and plays
with “wrong proportions” pairings
— for example, long jackets with
short pants. Among the standouts
are double-breasted blazers with
kimonolike sleeves and military coats
deconstructed to resemble robes.
Everything is crafted from high-end
fabrics such as textured wool, wool
crepe, a wide range of striped cloths,
padded jacquards inspired by Northern European patterns and corduroy.
Vanotti also used Fifties-inspired
dark, rigid denim for a workwear feel.
The color palette includes Vanotti’s
signature black, blue and white tones
enriched with khaki and sage green,
the season’s staple hues. — A.T.
Boglioli
This is a season of debuts for Italian luxury men’s wear brand
Boglioli. ¶ The company is not only hosting its first runway show, to
be held Jan. 17 at Milan’s Società del Giardino, it is also unveiling the
inaugural collection designed by Davide Marello, the first creative
director to be appointed by the label. ¶ Before joining Boglioli in
November, Marello worked for more than nine years at Gucci with
Frida Giannini and then six months with Alessandro Michele. “I
want to respect the story of the brand, but my goal is to develop it
through a vision projected toward the future,” said Marello, adding
the collection is focused on “soft tailoring with an experimental
approach.” ¶ Men’s suiting fabrics include carded cloths, chevrons,
tweeds and Prince of Wales that are washed, treated with various
techniques and garment-dyed. ¶ “The goal was to make all the
materials, from fabrics to leather, as lightweight as possible without
losing their original [attributes],” Marello said. ¶ As a result, suits,
separates and outerwear sport two silhouettes: “One wrapping
the body, the other more [true] to classic tailoring standards,” he
explained. ¶ The color palette is rich in warm, burnt tones, camels
and tobacco combined with cooler hues of blue and sky blue.
The brand also introduced footwear — loafers and Chelsea boots.
“We started from classic, formal silhouettes worked in leather,
treated and washed to achieve a worn effect,” Marello said. ¶ To
complete the lineup, he also designed a small range of bags, such as
clutches and weekend options, crafted from soft materials treated to
resemble fabric. — A.T.
11
15 JANUARY 2016 TO SHARPEN YOUR LOOK
Gioielleria Villa
Got a last-minute invite
to a dinner gala? To
spice up a run-of-the-mill
black suit, stop by the
prestigious Gioielleria
Villa for a pair of chic,
eccentric cuff links.
While surely not a bargain, men, too, deserve
nice jewels every now
and then.
23 Via Alessandro
Manzoni, 20121
+39-02-804-279
10 a.m. to 1 p.m.; 3 p.m.
to 7:30 p.m.
TO SHOP LIKE AN ITALIAN
TO PAMPER YOURSELF
Armani Spa
The Zen, minimal environment of this spa, located
inside Giorgio Armani’s
hotel, can help the fashion flock regain balance
and a peaceful state of
mind — so easy to lose
after endless shows and
deadlines.
31 Via Manzoni, 20121
+39-02-8883-8888
TO GET ENERGIZED
Cb Made in Italy
Cb shoes are made for
walking in style. If the
range of slippers available
at the Milanese brand’s
showroom-cum-store are
not enough, get creative
and order a custom pair.
50 Corso Garibaldi,
20121
+39-02-3663 -9181
9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.
The D
Sticking to a workout
routine during fashion week is hard, but
Davide Rombolotti can
help. The Milanese king
of CrossFit will help
weary showgoers stay
in shape during the
fashion marathon.
18 Via Buonarroti,
20149
+39-02-3660-1925
Collections Survival Kit
● Whether the shows are just too much or there’s a wardrobe malfunction, here are a few hot spots for dining, shopping and working out.
By ALESSANDRA TURRA
TO LOOK YOUR BEST
Antica Barbieria Colla di Franco Bompieri
Since 1904, this has
been the place where
the chicest Milanese
take care of their faces
and hair. Whether a
bearded hipster or a
baby-faced buyer, this
gem in the heart of
the city offers a VIP
treatment.
3 Via Gerolamo Morone, 20121
+39-02-874-312
8:30 a.m. to
12:30 p.m.; 2:30 p.m.
to 7:30 p.m.
FOR A GOOD MEAL
Al Garghet
A trip to Milan is never
complete without a
cotoletta. For exquisite
breaded cutlets, cab
over to this restaurant
for a yummy meal, in
satisfying portions.
36 Via Selvanesco,
20142
+39-02-5346-98
TO MEET UP
FOR A QUICK FIX
Turi Lacci E
Lucidi di Zappala’
Giuseppe & Co.
Italians are obsessed
with shoes. This famous
store a few steps from Piazza San Babila offers a
wide range of treatments
to give old footwear
favorites new life.
19 Via Cerva, 20122
+39-02-7600-2947
The Botanical Club
Drinking a well-concocted gin and tonic
is always a good way
to relax after a long
work day. This new hot
spot is gaining a rep in
Milan for its selection
of great gins. And the
creative dinner menu
won’t disappoint, either.
11 Via Pastrengo,
20159
+39-02-3652-3846
6:30 p.m. to 2 a.m.
13
15 JANUARY 2016 The DKNY spring ad
campaign.
DKNY: POWER TRIP
For their first advertising effort for
DKNY, Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne set out to capture the power of the
DKNY woman. And to be perfectly clear,
she’s a woman, not a girl.
Photographed by Lachlan Bailey, the
ads feature model Adrienne Jüliger. “She
is versatile. She looks youthful, but also
strong and sophisticated. We wanted
a woman who could show all sides of
herself. Adrienne’s change is subtle,” said
Chow. Jüliger has walked the runway for
such brands as Dior, Givenchy, Giambattista Valli, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton and
Valentino.
DKNY’S campaign was photographed
at Studio Red Hook Labs in Brooklyn, N.Y.
Chow said the focus of the campaign
is clearly the DKNY woman, and that’s
been a point that the designers have
made previously. Their DKNY customer
is not a girl. “We always refer to her as a
woman,” said Chow in an interview last
September before their first show for
DKNY. “The modern woman we envision
has just started getting into her own in
terms of career, starting a family, her life
is multilayered with different dimensions.
When you’re young, it’s not as complex.
For us, those complexities and those
dimensions are the interesting pieces
in determining what she wants to wear,”
said Chow.
The designers said they felt that in
recent years, DKNY went off course in
search of an expanded customer base
and that the customer got younger and
younger. “But it didn’t feel authentic to
what the brand was, it was too young; it
was just too young for us,” said Chow.
The spring DKNY campaign is about a
wardrobe that allows the DKNY woman
to become the focus “not the other way
around,” said Chow. Through the images,
Chow hoped to show the collection’s
versatility.
According to Osborne, “We tried to
capture the power embodied in the DKNY
woman. She is a multidimensional woman who balances all versions of herself
with DKNY…she embodies the new generation of powerful. She can be serious but
doesn’t take herself too seriously.”
The DKNY spring ad images will
launch in global fashion and lifestyle
publications. The print plan will be supplemented by a digital media presence
on global fashion and news sites. Forty
percent of the global media budget will
be invested digitally. This is a significant
step for the brand, which last year invested 5 percent in digital. The company
also plans to provide behind-the-scenes
visuals of the shoot on its Web site. The
digital component will launch in mid-February to align with the March issues on
newsstands.
graphic, New York, Vanity Fair and WSJ.
Meanwhile, the award for Design will
be between Bon Appétit, GQ, New York,
The Pitchfork Review and Wired.
Lifestyle-centric publications Bon
Appétit; Golf Digest; Harper’s Bazaar;
Lucky Peach; Parents; Seventeen and T:
The New York Times Style Magazine will
vie for General Excellence in the Service
and Lifestyle category.
Men’s magazines Esquire and GQ will
also fight it out for General Excellence in
the News, Sports and Entertainment category, along with fellow nominees, Fast
Company, New York, The New York Times
Magazine, The New Yorker and Newsweek. For the complete list of nominees,
see WWD.com.
— ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD
CONDÉ, KARLIE
TALK CREATIVITY
Karlie Kloss made a cameo at a Condé
Nast all-staff meeting Thursday morning, in which chief executive officer Bob
Sauerberg and chief marketing officer
Edward Menicheschi emphasized the
importance of creativity to the company.
“Our content is our soul,” said Sauerberg from the 63rd floor of Condé’s
headquarters at One World Trade
Center. Several staffers noted that
artistic director and Vogue editor in chief
Anna Wintour sat in the front row in the
meeting, “fashion show style,” donning
sunglasses.
Billed as a kickoff to 2016, Sauerberg
talked about the company’s focus on
mobile and video, and he thanked Wintour
for her editorial accomplishments.
Menicheschi then unveiled a new
advertising campaign with the tag line,
“Create. Connect. Condé Nast.” The company tweeted excerpts of the campaign,
which bore the hashtag “CreativityIs” as
the exec spoke. The video, which was
developed by the company’s native
advertising unit 23 Stories, showed
behind-the-scenes glimpses of various
cover shoots across the Condé titles, and
featured celebs such as Kendall Jenner,
Reese Witherspoon and Ronda Rousey.
The celebs, most of whom had appeared
on the covers of Condé’s magazines in
2015, gave excerpts of their definitions
of creativity. Leading up to the campaign
unveil, Condé top brass asked about 100
employees to participate by providing
Patrick Demarchelier shot the
Dior spring campaign.
— LISA LOCKWOOD
Kloss photograph courtesy of @marinalarroude
SWAN SONG
Raf Simons’ final ready-to-wear collection for Dior is showcased in the French
house’s spring 2016 campaign, slated
to break on Jan. 19 in Harper’s Bazaar in
the U.S. and In Style in Korea, followed by
Harper’s Bazaar Japan, Vogue France
and Elle China the next day. Outdoor
treatments are to debut in Hong Kong on
Jan. 23.
Patrick Demarchelier shot a cast of
young models in a series of group portraits that Dior described as “an homage
to femininity, glamor and modernity.”
Models Sofia Mechetner, Roos Abels,
Staz Lindes, Maartje Verhoef, Grace Hartzel and Binx Walton had their windblown
hair done by Duffy and low-key makeup
applied by Peter Philips.
An accompanying digital film is to
launch on Dior’s Web sites and social
media from Jan. 20.
— MILES SOCHA
New York Magazine’s
“Cosby” cover.
JOURNALISM’S
BIG NIGHT
It might not be as glitzy as the Oscars,
but for magazine publishers, winning a
National Magazine Award still affords
substantial bragging rights in a survival-of-the-fittest industry.
On Thursday, The American Society
of Magazine Editors unveiled their slate
of nominees for the 50th annual National
Magazine Awards or “Ellies,” which will
take place on Feb. 1 at the Grand Hyatt in
New York.
Sixty-seven media organizations were
nominated in 21 categories this year. Five
magazines were nominated for the top
prize of Magazine of the Year, and includ-
Bob Sauerberg
and Karlie Kloss
at the Condé Nast
meeting.
ed The Atlantic, The Hollywood Reporter,
National Geographic, New York and The
New Yorker. The organization said 24
titles nabbed multiple nominations led by
New York with nine. A perennial favorite,
New York also had the most nominations
in 2015 with 10 and nine in 2014.
The New York Times Magazine
grabbed seven nominations this year, the
most for the title since 2011 when it had
nine. Other multifinalists included GQ
(six nominations); The New Yorker (five);
Bon Appétit (four), and Matter, National
Geographic and Poetry, each with three.
Vice Magazine and Vice News combined
for three nominations.
Newcomer nominees included BBC
News Magazine, Buzzfeed News, Car and
Driver, Eater, Family Fun, The Huffington
Post, The Huffington Post Highline, The
Intercept, Lucky Peach, the Marshall
Project, ProPublica and WSJ.
ASME gave Annie Leibovitz a shoutout for her nomination in Feature Photography for her Caitlyn Jenner photos
for Vanity Fair’s story, “He Says Goodbye,
She Says Hello.” It also highlighted the
Essays and Criticism category, pointing
to GQ’s “The Accident” by Michael Paterniti, who earned his ninth Ellie nomination
this year.
Duking it out for the award in excellence in Photography will be The California Sunday Magazine, National Geo-
their own “creative selfies.” The campaign, which will live on the Web, will also
include advertising displays in trade publications and around New York in subway
stations and at Grand Central Terminal.
The 30-minute meeting, which was
live-streamed to employees at satellite offices, ended with a splash — in true Condé
style — when Kloss addressed employees.
The statuesque model gave a quick
synopsis of her definition of creativity,
which included “taking risks” and having
“courage.”
“Whether you write code or copy,” it
is all creative, she noted, before ribbing
Sauerberg about his height, as they took
a selfie. — A.S.