Fashion Through the Decades

Fashion Apparel & Accessories
Name _________________________________
Period _______
Fashion Through the Decades:
1900-1990
La Belle Epoque - Women's Fashions of the 1900s
Silhouette The popular figure was termed the "Grecian bend", made up of the
pigeon-breasted bosom
, tiny corseted waist, and full, swayback hips. High, boned
collars were worn in daytime with long sleeves, while some evening gowns were
extremely low-necked with a band or ribbon for a sleeve. Wide picture hats were
worn through the decade; all skirts s wept the floor.
Common Designs
• One- or two-piece trimmed shirtwaist dresses in white, black, or brown
e with a heavier, dark skirt
• A white, high-necked, trimmed cotton blous
• Sheer white afternoon gowns w
ith extensive handwork
• Tailor-made jackets and skirts for working women
• Silk evening gowns either in high-necked daystyle or with sultry bare arms and neck
Fabrics Available Natural fibers (linen, cotton, wool, and silk); cotton or linen was choice for most
households'daily wear, in sheer organdy and batist
e or opaque poplin. Eveningwear wasmost often
silk of some kind; wool was seen in the tailor-made suit and outerwea
r.
Popular Colors and Prints Daywear was most often in shades of white, brown, and black,
commonly in a small figured or floral print; embroidered polka dots wereoften seen. Lightweight
fabrics were normal, with medium weights seen in skirts and suits.Evening meant lightweight silks in
sometimes brighter solids or light-colored hazy prints
Trims and Detailing Fancy trim meant status at this period, so trim was as excessive as possible on
shoulders, waist, and lower half of skirt. Lace, em broidery, jet beading, flowers, ribbon, and net were
all common trims. Tucks in fabric provided less expensive decoration and wereespecially common in
wide bands on the lower half of skirts.
Hemlines Day and Night Both day and night, hemlines were to the floor; evening wear (and some
daywear) was even longer.
The Latest Fads
• Bicycling craze
• Pastel silk sashes round young women's waists or tied flamboyantly in their hair
• Men's straw boaters
• Specially-engineered "health" corsets
• Huge picture hats piled with flowers,ribbon, and stuffed birds or feathers
Innovations
• Shirtwaist blouses were deve
loped for new working women
• Sergers first used in the clothing industry
Poiret and Eastern Influence - Women's Fashions of the 1910s
Silhouette For daywear, head-to-ankle coverage was required, with lowered
necklines for the first time in decades. Both neck and arms were often bared at
night. The primary silhouette was a straight, squarish outline with low hips;
sometimes a more natural, high-waisted, and Art Nouveau styled figure was
popular. The ankle-length hem was extremely narrow for the hobble skirt style,
and wide picture hats narrowed through the decade.
Common Designs
• Horizontal layered appearance in skirt or vertical wrap effect on tailored jacket-and-skirt sets
and dresses
• Long, ethnic-influenced tunic with skirt and waist sash
• High-waisted silhouette with cummerbund-style wrapped waist, square neckline, and often
stylized or Classical draping for evening
Fabrics Available Natural fibers (linen, cotton, wool, and silk) used, with rayon (artificial silk) a
new invention in 1910. Medium to heavy weight fabrics like serge and gabardine seen in tailored
daywear. Lightweight, often sheer fabrics- organza, chiffon, crepes- worn in evening and afternoon
dresses, with jersey popular as leisure fabrics. Chanel used denim as a leisure fabric at this period,
well before denim's heyday of popularity.
Popular Colors and Prints Solids or small figured prints worn for daywear, with white, black,
shades of gray or brown being most common. Evening saw brighter, varied colors and larger, exotic
prints. Poiret was well-known for his specially concocted vibrant hues.
Trims and Detailing Extensive same-color embroidery and beading commonly seen on both day
and evening wear. Braid worn on tailored garments and other daywear. Feathers, furs, and tassels
donned for the new mystique look of fashion.
Hemlines Day and Night For daytime, the hem fluctuated between a few inches above the ankle and
the instep. Evening wear was floor-length, often with simple trains, though later styles were anklelength.
The Latest Fads
• Couture designer Paul Poiret's influence:
• Extremely narrow "hobble" skirts
• Oriental and Middle Eastern ethnic motifs and silhouettes
• Turbans and feather-spiked bandeaux
• Lampshade skirts (wired to the shape of a lampshade hung from the waist)
• Corsetless "liberated" women
Innovations Rayon invented in 1910 as the first artificial fiber. It was introduced to common fashion
in the late teens, but used by Chanel as early as 1915.
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Sheiks and Shebas - Women's Fashions of the 1920s
Silhouette The body outline was a very straight, curveless figure, with
streamlined, close-fitting hats and hairstyles. Skirts fell between the knee and
mid-calf in different seasons, for both day and eveningwear. One exception
was a style of formal dress with a straight bodice and low-waisted flaring
skirt with an uneven, ankle-length hem. In general, the 20s were an
elongation and simplification of lines.
Common Designs
• Sleeveless or cap sleeved scoop-neck lightweight dresses with no waistline or lowered waist
• Layered suit-styled jacket, blouse, skirt sets in softer, sometimes knit materials
• Evening wear in sleeveless barrel shape with great amounts of beading- also panels, unusual
streamlined drapes, or emphasis of the lowered waistline by a wide band of shirring or
smocking
Fabrics Available Natural fibers (linen, cotton, wool, silk), acetate, and rayon (artificial silk). Most
daywear was medium- to lightweight, in crepes, georgette, knits and light suitings. Evening meant silk,
in both sheer chiffon and opaque fabrics.
Popular Colors and Prints For day, neutral grays, browns, and blues were common, but pastels and
more lively colors were worn. Nightwear was a rainbow of color; prints were common, but usually in
small checks or figures, or a floral pattern.
Trims and Detailing Daytime saw little trim, but nightwear overflowed with beading, furs, feathers,
flowers, and lace. Both American Indian and Egyptian motifs were the rage, while the Art Deco
movement stylized every type of design with its sleek, modern, geometric lines.
Hemlines Day and Night The hemline rose from the end of the teens to reach the knee in 1925, and
remained hovering near that position until the stock market crash of 1929, when they too fell to midcalf and lower. Hemlines were approximately the same for day or night.
The Latest Fads
This decade is notorious for its scandalous changes in fashion:
• Smoking in public
• Extreme dieting
• Bobbed hair
• Showing your knees
• Rolled stockings
Some less "radical" fads are:
• American Indian motifs
• Egyptian style craze, inspired by discovery of King Tut's tomb in 1923
• streamlined Art Deco lines and figures
Innovations
• Development of bias-cutting fabric by Madeleine Vionnet
• Invention of acetate fabric in 1924
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Despair and Fantasy - Women's Fashions of the 1930s
Silhouette For the first time in centuries, the natural, though slim, silhouette became
the style. Hair was waved and shoulder-length. Shoulders were emphasized by puffs or
padding, especially towards World War II (1939). For most women, a long, sleek
appearance was desired.
Common Designs
• Unusually cut and pieced day and evening dresses, with oddly puffed and fitted
sleeves
• Bias-cut, high-waisted evening dresses and nightgowns
• Two-piece suits with square-shaped jackets, large buttons and narrow, lean skirts
in thin materials
Fabrics Available Natural fibers (sometimes linen, but mostly cotton, wool, and silk),
acetate, and rayon, all in light- to medium weights (velvet, georgette, crepe, organdy,
satin) for day or evening.
Popular Colors and Prints Colors were often muted or deeper hues, but brighter color was
accepted. Prints were of soft to medium hues, and though they were still small to medium in size, they
were more varied. Besides florals, geometric and abstract prints became popular; these were of two or
more contrasting shades in streamlined designs that appear a little quirky today. Surrealism influenced
prints, as artist Salvador Dali designed textiles for designers.
Trims and Detailing Many 30s details depended on novelty-shaped plackets, lapels, pockets, cuffs,
belts, or necklines, often with button accents. Large collar and cuff sets were very popular. Usually
designs had either a medieval or ultra-Deco air to them. A standard motif throughout the decade was
the two-piece belt or jacket clasp, worn at the center waist. To summarize, more trim was seen in
daywear, with evening a showcase for cut and fabric drapery.
Hemlines Day and Night Day hems dropped to mid-calf in '29 and rose through the decade to below
the knee. At night, dress was floor-length.
The Latest Fads
• Schiaparelli's controversial color, shocking pink
• The first appearance of the midriff, seen in formal gowns and considered scandalous
• Highly unusual sleeves, often with long fitted cuffs and a section of puffed sleeve
• Surrealist influence
• Novelty buttons, another Schiaparelli idea
• Very low back bodices, known as being "backless" or having "back interest"
• Tanned "movie star" skin
Innovations
• Nylon invented in 1939
• Accepted use of costume jewelry by society, introduced by Chanel in the '20s
• Development of two-way stretch weaves in fabric
• Platforms on high-heeled dress shoes, invented by shoe designer Salvatore Ferragamo
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The New Look - Women's Fashions of the 1940s
Silhouette In the first half of the decade, a trim waist and hips were
contrasted with a broad chest and women's shoulder pads became a must. Hair
was curled or rolled and shoulder-length or slightly longer. After the New Look
debuted in 1947, shoulders sloped, waists cinched, and hips spread as far as
they liked.
Common Designs
• The fitted jacket-and-skirt suit, with a peplum to the hip
• One- and two-fabric day dresses with 3- or 4-sided squarish curved
necklines, the bust shaped by soft gathers above or below, and
sometimes swags or drapery on the skirt
• Lace and taffeta eveningwear with asymmetric, bouffant styling
• Cap-sleeved cotton or rayon blouses and matching tap-style shorts or wide-leg pants for
recreation
Fabrics Available Natural fibers (linen, cotton, wool, and silk), rayon, acetate, and nylon. Light- to
medium-weight fabrics used, with light and sheer materials for nightwear. Nylon was seen as net
overlays on formals and as the sole material in some sheer day dresses.
Popular Colors and Prints Most daywear was in conservative colors, though some morning dresses
had bright or bold floral or abstract figured prints. Evening saw more soft shades, and also classic
navy and black. Casual clothes were sometimes boldly colored, with a lean towards western motifs.
Trims and Detailing Little trimming appeared on clothing during this era, excepting some evening
wear. Instead, fancy covered buttons, extra tailoring details, or fabric contrasts provided variety. One
standard was two large hip pockets at either side of the waist, a regular fashion into the 50s.
Hemlines Day and Night For day, just below the knee was standard, but some dresses fell to midcalf. At night, at least ankle-length was necessary except for the cocktail hour.
The Latest Fads Hats of every shape and size were fashionable, and was a style that began in the
previous decade. Shoulder pads occasionally reached wide, pointy, or hollowed proportions. Hot
items were alligator accessories, platform shoes, and marten stoles (long fox-like animals strung
together).
Innovations
(1949)
Four new synthetics: saran (1941), metallic (1946), modacrylic (1949), and olefin
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Flamboyant and Feminine - Women's Fashions of the 1950s
Silhouette Soft but wide shoulders, corseted waist, and full hips were hallmarks of
50s wear, but silhouettes were more varied. On these outlines, women wore a trim
bodice and very full knee-length skirt, or a fitted short, boxy jacket or blouse with a
pencil-straight skirt. One style that hid all the rest, literally, was the cocoon-like
sacque dress and coat, which fitted the shoulders and bloomed at the waist and hips.
Common Designs
• One- and two-piece dresses with small-collared, fitted blouses and full,
pleated knee-length skirts
• More casual dresses with tied shoulder straps or halter straps, boned bodices and the quintessential
circle skirt
• Similarly fitted eveningwear that had a heart-shaped opaque strapless bodice with a sheer silk or nylon
overbodice, usually sleeveless or long-sleeved
• Prom night evening gowns of pastel nylon tulle, usually bedecked with yards of tulle trims, ruffles, and
velvet bows
• Long-sleeved button-up sweaters with a plain, ribbed neck, often beaded or appliquéd
Fabrics Available Natural fibers (linen, cotton, wool, silk), rayon, acetate, nylon, modacrylic, acrylic,
polyester, and spandex. For daytime, the most common fabrics were in naturals, rayon, nylon, poly-cotton
blends, and sometimes acrylic and acetate; sweaters were wool (cashmere for status) or acrylic knit. Brocades,
satin, velveteen, taffeta, nylon net, tulle, and chiffon in both natural and synthetic fabrics were reserved for
evening. Materials were usually light- to medium weight, and sheer fabrics were common, but not usually as
the main material of a garment (except in tulle evening gowns and some day dresses).
Popular Colors and Prints Day and casual wear saw neutral solids and floral prints, along with dazzling
western and peasant-styled clothing, sometimes hand-painted onto circle skirts or scarves. Futuristic prints of
all types appeared in bright, abstract designs apropos of the atomic era. Also, dark tone-on-tone abstracts in
brown, gray or navy were popular winter prints. For evening, both solids and classic floral brocades were
common; the effect of overlaying contrasting sheer chiffon or net on a flesh-colored underdress was daringly
popular. Colors in the evening were now both subtle and bold, as peacock blues and hot pinks became
acceptable.
Trims and Detailing The most obvious trim of daywear is the beading of sweaters and occasional
extravagance on detailing circle skirts. Circle skirts and novelty garments were sometimes incredibly ornate,
with applique, rickrack, screen-printing, sequins, or glitter. A very common feature on 50s dolman-sleeved
dresses is the small, nonfunctional, diamond-shaped underarm panel. Flutter hems, which were curved evenly
up and down, and scalloped edges appeared occasionally in full-skirted day and evening dress. Most evening
detail appeared in sculpted pleats and necklines, or toned-down rhinestones and corde`, which added style
without being cumbersome or uncomfortable.
Hemlines Day and Night Daywear hems fell to the knee or a little below it. Evening gowns could be floorlength, but the cocktail dress also flourished at knee and upper-calf length.
The Latest Fads
• Bobby soxers (Peter Pan collared blouse, poodle skirt, scarf-tied ponytail, and saddle shoes)
• James Dean look-alikes, hoods, and motorcycle gangs
• Cat-eye glasses, beatniks
• Hawaiian shirts, barkcloth in casual wear
• Ethnic scene prints in day and leisure wear; Americana prints with rustic scenes or patriotic eagles, etc
Innovations
New fabrics: acrylic (1950), polyester (1953), and spandex (1959)
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Time for a Revolution - Women's Fashions of the 1960s
Silhouette Despite the decade's new and very different fashions, everyday
clothes were quite simple. Usually A-line or shift dresses were worn with
lengths between the high thigh and the knee. Hair was short to shoulder-length
and sometimes piled high in a "beehive".
Common Designs
• Simple shift or princess line dresses in a solid or soft print fabric
• Mini length dresses with ultra-modern or baby doll details
• Dress and coat sets, conservatively styled and usually imported
• Boxy jacket and skirt suits, in solid suitings a la Jackie O
Fabrics Available Almost all fabrics we know of today were available. Day dresses and suit sets
were of light- to medium weight, usually in natural or natural-look fabrics. The new space-age styles
were in smooth, bright, obvious synthetics like vinyl.
Popular Colors and Prints Florals of all types and some abstracts were common day prints.
Brighter and more varied prints were seen in leisurewear, especially Hawaiian motifs. Solids and basic
prints were predominant for evening and business wear.
Trims and Detailing Overall, there was little trim, excepting simple motifs seen in piping or
embroidery. Evening saw more extravagant sequins or beading, especially encrusted panels on a jewel
collar and cuffs.
Hemlines Day and Night Mini skirts and dresses were skimpy, sometimes daringly popular items
for day or evening. Usually, day dresses were just above the knee, and evening was ankle-length.
The Latest Fads
• Hot pants (extremely short shorts)
• Mini skirts
• No hats or gloves for daywear
• Space-age fashions in vinyl and other synthetics
• Bold, solid color contrasts from the Op Art movement, commonly called Mod fashions
• Preppie fashions, including mohair sweaters, madras plaid and A-line skirts
Innovations
Invention of aramid fabric (1961)
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Hippies in Polyester - Women's Fashions of the 1970s
Silhouette The outline of figures by this decade was widely varied, especially
in hair and hem lengths. In general, a long, almost gaunt look was desired in the
arms and torso, and the flared line of bellbottoms was common. Some freeform silhouettes were worn in a muu-muu style, while other outlines tended
toward a romantic re-development of Victorian and Edwardian styles, blending
such details as empire waists and leg-o'-mutton sleeves.
Common Designs
• Straight, skinny synthetic shirts or the ubiquitous T-shirt paired with
synthetic or denim bellbottoms
• Polyester knit suits in dress-and-jacket, jacket-and-skirt or pant sets
• Princess-line polyester print dresses with any sleeve length
• Ethnic and primitive leisure wear in rougher, ethnic fabrics or slippery
new synthetics
• One-piece dresses or pantsuits with a solid-color bodice and wild-print
bottoms
Fabrics Available Every fabric we know today except two little known fibers (PBI and sulfar). Polyester was
overwhelmingly the fabric of choice from leisure to evening wear, but natural fibers had a resurgence with the
organic flower child look. Nylon, acrylic, acetate, rayon blends and other synthetics were commonly used.
Popular Colors and Prints Loud and clashing colors were now in everyday fashion prints, from conservative
to wild. Swirling psychedelic prints, dotted with flowers, medallions, geometric shapes, and what-have-you
were popular. Drug-related motifs, such as mushrooms and poppies, were subtly added to prints.
Trims and Detailing Trims were often minimized and usually easy to apply by machine. Borders of
crocheted lace and beads were worn; appliques and novelty stitches were popular. Most detail was seen in the
involved prints, though beading, sequins, and other traditional formal applications were used in some evening
wear.
Hemlines Day and Night Maxi-length skirts and coats were a fashionable length, but hemlines ranged from
above the knee to the ankle for any type of wear. Hot pants were still popular especially for club-going and
performers.
The Latest Fads
• Wide and pointy lapels
• Bellbottoms, flares, elephant bells and wide leg pants
• Natural or ethnic styles of flower children and hippies
• Polyester as the new staple fiber
• Pantsuits
• Career wear for the working woman in two and three-piece polyester suits
• Platform shoes, some with outrageous designs like clear plastic platforms with live goldfish placed
inside
• Long, free-flowing hairstyles, girlish pony and pigtails, and afros
Innovations Widespread use of designer names and labels as an incentive to shoppers, marking everything
from clothing to luggage with designers such as Geoffrey Beene and Christian Dior.
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Fashion of the 1980s
Men's Hair:
• Rainbow
Mohawks
• Long & Layered
• Slightly Teased
• Long
• Frizzy w/Bangs
• Don Johnson
• Curly
• Mullets
• Spikey Hair
• "Bowl" Cut
• Pompadour
• Gerry-Curl
Women's Face:
• Vivid Makeup
• Light Pink
Lips
• Glitter
• Colored
Mascara
• Blue
Eyeshadow
• Beauty Moles
• Lots of
Eyeliner
• Bushy
Eyebrows
Men's Face:
• Punk Piercings
• Ray-Bans
• Elton John
Glasses
• Boy George
Makeup
Men's
Women's
Shirts/Jackets:
Shirts/Jackets:
• Off• Rock
Shoulder
Band
Shirts w/
Shirts
Tanktops
• Frankie Goes to
Hollywood
• 3/4 Sleeves
• Crop Tops
• Black & Neon
• Primary Colors
• Leather Jackets
• Pink Sweater
• Chains on
Leather
• Sweater on Waist
• Neon
• Rolled Sleeves
• Matching Socks
• Pastel Polos
• Thick Belts
• Panama Jack TShirts
• Shoulder Pads
• Long T-Shirts
• Members Only
Jackets
• Shirts with TShirt clips on the
• Muscle Shirts
side
• Hypercolor TShirts
• Stonewashed Jean
Jackets with
• Two Shirts
Safety Pins
• A Shirt around
the Waist
Women's Legs:
• Tight
Stonewashed
Jeans
• Zippered Legs
• 3/4 Length
Leggings
• Legwarmers
• Exercise Gear
• Super Tight
Minis
• Colored Hose
w/Rips
• Spandex
• Stirrup Pants
• Cowboy Boots
• Pinning Pant
Cuffs
• Layered Ruffle
Skirts over
Leggings
• Layers of
Multicolored
Socks
Men's Legs:
• Tight Leather
Pants
• Bright Colors
• Spandex
• Tight
Stonewashed
Jeans
• Jammers
• Parachute
Pants
• Hightops with
Crazy Laces
• Pegged Pants
• White Socks
with Stripes at
the Top
• Jeans with Big
Holes
• Pump-up
Hightops
Women’s Hair:
• Feathered
Hair
• Rave,
tons of it
• Stick-up bangs
(the Claw)
• Multicolored
• Crimped
• Side Ponytails
• Ultra-Teased
• Platinum Blonde
• Glitter
• Multiple
Scrunchies
• Ribbon Barettes
• Banana Clips
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Women's Accessories:
• Clock Necklaces
• Friendship Stuff
• Many Swatches
• Swatch Protectors
• Plastic Charms
• Hoop Earrings
• Slouch Socks
• High Tops
• Puff Paint
• Safety Pins Beads
• Slap Bracelets
• Rubber Bracelets
• Jellies
• Big Hair Bows
• Elastic Belt w/
Clip Buttons
• Snake Arm Band
• Black Scrunchy
Boots
• Belts, Belts, Belts
- The Thicker the
Better
• Twisty Bead
Necklaces
Men's
Accessories:
• Braces
With
Color
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Rubberbands
Croc Dundee
Hats
Rhinestone
Glove
Brimmed Hats
Neon Book
Covers
Trapper Keepers
Wall Watches
Spiked
Wristbands
Bandannas
Suspenders
Shades
Waist Zipper
Pack
Brand Names:
• Adidas
• Aquanet
• Banana
Republic
• Bongo
• Candies
• Cherokee
• Converse
• Docksiders
• Esprit
• Fido Fido
• Forenza
• Gap
• GET! Used
• Gloria
Vanderbilt
• Gotcha
• Guess
• Izod
• I.O.U.
• Jimmy Z
• Jordache
More Brand Names:
• Kaepa
• Keds
• LA Gear
• Levis
• Liz Claiborn
• Maui and Sons
• Nike
• Ocean Pacific
• Out Back Red
• Polo Ralph
Loren
• Reebok
• Skids
• Streetwear
• Vans
• Vision
Z-Cavaricci
•
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Fashion of the 1990s
The 1990s became the decade of the mixed message. In the space of ten years, the power shoulder was
exterminated, accessorize escalated, the classic cardigan hit the office, big hair was cut, mat glamour
disappeared, slip dresses came out of the closet, and just when super models where hitting their stride,
their fascination expired.
As fashion became fixated with the here and now, there where two major fashion flash
backs. Just as the 1970s had resurrected the 1920s and 1930s, so the 1990s reinvigorated the
1960s and 1970s with flairs (later called bootlegs) and platform shoes. In spring 1990 stretch
leggings replaced tailored trousers, with Pucci print versions. The must - have of the
moment.
The 1990s fashion designer no longer created clothes with complimentary cosmetics
and scent, customers wanted to buy into a lifestyle. Designer's logos no longer shouted
conspicuous consumption, but whispered subliminal messages. The Gucci snaffle, the
Hermes bag, the small but perfectly formed Prada triangle in the silver and black were
all 1990s' symbols for the chic and hip, understood only by those who knew the precise
code.
Anna Sui designed retro influenced fashions and second-hand shopping for vintage clothing
becomes mainstream. Gothic and Cyberpunk clothes emerge. Heroin chic is marketed and
Hip-hop fashions make the scene with Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfinger. Hemp clothing,
natural unbleached cotton, and recycled PVC plastic woven into polyester outwear emerges.
Popular designers include Alexander McQueen, Isaac Mizrahi, Gucci, Versacci, and Donna
Karan.
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