The Textile Collection of the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga

The Textile Collection of the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga

Study of Indo-Portuguese silk bedspreads of
16th to 17th century from the collections of
MNAA and NMS
Crocus sativus L.
Teresa Pacheco Pereira
MNAA
Carmo Serrano
E.A.N.
6/8/2007
1
The Textile Collection of
the Museu Nacional de
Arte Antiga
Indian embroideries for the
Portuguese market. End of 16th
century / beginning of 17th
century
6/8/2007
2
1
Monochrome quilts
The Justice of Solomon
2
The Pelican feeding its young
3
"Dé
"Décadas de Tito Livio"
Livio" (Zaragoza
(Zaragoza,, Coci,
Coci, 1520).
Trasladadas por fray Pedro de la Vega
4
5
6
7
Scope of the Work
„
The global aim of this project was to identify
the original material used in the process of
ancient Indo-Portuguese bedspread, in 16th
- 18th centuries, from the collections of
MNAA and NMS to confirm an origin.
„
Despite extensively studied from the
viewpoint of the history of the decorative
arts, the Indo-Portuguese bedspreads have
not been analyzed in detail as a material
object until now.
8
Indo-Portuguese bedspreads:
Characteristics
Indian
Portuguese
„
„
„
„
Coat of arms
„
Flowers motives
„
Animals motives: parrots, peacocks
„
Popular influence and Arab
NMS N. 391
(Modejar)
Modejar)
„
„
MNAA N. 710
War Scenes
NMS N. 159
Hunting Scenes in early 17th century
Portuguese and Oriental costumes
Floral motives with central medallions a
influence on Islamic rugs
Vegetative and geometric ornamentation
Mystic animals: dragons, exotic birds and
MNAA N. 2232
hybrids..
NMS N.392
MNAA N. 4582
MNAA N. 710
MNAA N. 4575
MNAA N. 710
NMS N. 390
How many bedspreads?
„
13 Indian bedspreads 16th-18th - MNAA
- 3 polychromatic
1 - 16th/17th
2 – 18th
- 3 bichromatic:
bichromatic:
Yellow and blue - 16th/17th
Yellow and red - 17th
Red and blue - 16th/17th
- 7 monocromatic
6 yellow:16th/17th
1 red 17th
„
3 Portuguese bedspreads 17th/18th – MNAA
- 3 polychromatic
„
4 IndoIndo-Portuguese bedspreads 18th - NMS
- 4 polychromatic
Yellow red MNAA 112
Yellow blue MNAA 3750
Yellow MNAA 4583
9
Questions to solve
- Where were these bedspreads dyed?
Portugal or India?
NMS N. 390
- Are the Indians yellow bedspreads
dyed?
MNAA N. 4583
MNAA N. 4582
Art Historians and curators commonly
believed that the yellow color was
obtained without dyeing, i.e., it was the
color of the natural silk used.
Identification of embroidery fibers by optical
microscopic: Portuguese bedspreads
Whole amount
N. 710 - 18th century
N. 3465 - 18th century
Bombyx mori - silk
Cross section
N. 2137 - 17th /18th century
10
Identification of embroidery fibers by
optical microscopic: Indians bedspreads
Cotton
Cotton
N.3413N.3413-16th/17th century
Whole mount
Cross sections
Tussah silk
Tussah silk
N.2237
16th/17th century
Tussah silk
Tussah silk
Tussah silk
Tussah silk
Tussah silk
N.3750
16th/17th century
N.4581
16th/17th
century
N.3692
16th/17th century
N.2281
17th century
N.4582
17th century
Identification of embroidery fibers by
optical microscopic: Indians bedspreads
Whole mount
N. 112 - 17th century
N. 2226
17th century
Bombyx mori silk
N. 4575 - 16th/17th century
N. 4583
17th/18th
century
17
Cross-sections
N. 1926 - 18th century
N. 2232
18th century
11
Conclusions: Identification of embroidery fibers
Portuguese bedspreads
(17th/18th century)
Bombyx mori silk
MNAA
NMS
N. 710
N. 2137
N. 3465
N. 390
N. 391
N. 392
Indian bedspreads M.N.A.A.
(16th/17th century)
Cotton
N. 3413
Tussah silk
N.2237
N.2281 (17th)
N.3750
N.3692
N. 4581
N. 4582 (17th)
Bombyx mori silk
N. 112 (17th)
N. 2226 (17th)
N. 4575
N. 4583
Indian bedspreads (18th century)
Bombyx mori silk
N. 1926
N. 2232
N. 159 (NMS)
The Tussah silk and the cotton identified in the embroidery fibers on the
bedspreads means they were made in India..
The Bombyx mori silk identified in the embroidery fibers on the bedspreads means
that we can’t attributing an origin (India or Portugal), this type of silk exist in both
countries at that time
Conclusions: Identification of embroidery fibers
Bedspreads analysed
100%
1
2
75%
4
3
50%
2
25%
2
0%
Séc. XVI/XVII
Bombyx mory
Séc. XVII
Séc. XVIII
Tussah
Algodão
Distribution of embroidery fibers analysed in
Indian bedspreads in different centuries
12
Portuguese dyes
Common name
Source
Major component dye
Weld
Reseda luteola L.
Luteolin,
Luteolin, Apigenin
Young Fustic
Cotinus coggygria Scop.
Scop.
Fisetin,
Fisetin, fustin e sulfuretin
Rhus cotinus L.
Sumac
Rhus coriaria L.
Tannin gallic,
gallic, myricetol
Woad
Isactis tinctoria L.
Indigotin,
Indigotin, Indirubin
Brazilwood
Caesalpinia brasiliensis L.
Brazilin, Brazilein
Kermes
Kermes ilicis,
ilicis, Coccus ilicis
L.
kermesic acid, flavokermesic acid
Madder*
Rubia tinctorium L.
Alizarin, Purpurin,
Purpurin, Pseudopurpurin,
Pseudopurpurin,
xanthopurpurin
Cochineal*
Datylopius coccus (O.
Costa)
Carminic acid, traces of kermesic acid,
flavokermesic acid and unknown dcII
Published in “Regimento da Fabrica dos Panos de Portugal, Ordenado
no anno de 1690”
1690” Lisboa.
Lisboa.
*Published in “VITERBO, S. - Historia da tinturaria em Portugal, Lisboa,
Typografia da Academia Real das Sciencias,
Sciencias, 1902.
Indian dyes – Red and blue
Common name
Source
Major component dye
Date
Kamala
Mallotus philipinensis Muell
Rottlerin
?
Toon
Cedrela toona Rox.
Rox.
Nycanthin and quercetin
?
Safflower red
Carthamus tinctorius L.
Carthamin
Since antiquity
Henna
Lawsonia alba Lam.
Lawsone
?
Ventilago
Ventilago madraspatana
Gaertin.
Gaertin.
Physcion,
Physcion, ventilagine
?
?
Ratanjot
Arnebia nobilis Rachingar
Munjeet
Rubia cordifolia L.
Munjistin,
Munjistin, purpurin,
purpurin, alizarin,
pseudopurpurin
Since antiquity
Suranji
Morinda citrifolia L.
Monrindone,
Monrindone, Soranjidiol
Since antiquity
Sappan wood
Caesalpinia sappan L.
Brazilin, Brazilein
Since antiquity
Lac dye
Kerria Lacca (Kerr)
Laccaic acid A, B, C, D, E
D=Flavokermesic
D=Flavokermesic acid
Since antiquity
Chay root
Oldenlandia umbellata L.
Alizarin
Since antiquity
Madder
Rubia tinctorium L.
Alizarin, Purpurin,
Purpurin,
Pseudopurpurin,
Pseudopurpurin,
xanthopurpurin
Since antiquity
Red sandalwood
Pterocarpus santalinus L.
Santalin A, B
Since antiquity
Indigo
Indigofera tinctoria L.
Indigotin
13
Indian dyes – Yellow
Common name
Source
Major component dye
Dates
Turmeric
Curcuma longa L.
Curcumin,
Curcumin,
Demethoxycurcumin
Since antiquity
Saffron
Crocus sativus L.
Crocetin
Since antiquity
Safflower yellow
Carthamus tinctorius L.
Carthamone
Since antiquity
Jack wood
Artocarpus integrifolia L.
Morin
?
Palas
Butea frondosa Roxb.
Roxb.
Butin
?
Fustic
Chlorophora tinctoria L.
Morin, Kampherol,
Kampherol,
maclurin
Since antiquity
Pomogranate
Punica granatum L.
Constitution unknown
?
Bengal catechu
Acacia catechu wild.
Catechin
?
Bombay catechu
Areca catechu L.
Catechin
?
Myrobalans
Terminalia chebula
Retz.
Ellagic acid
?
Babul bark
Acacia arabica Wild.
Constitution unknown
?
Publication in Studies in Conservation 33 (1988) 11-8
VARADARAJAN, L - Arboreal Sources for Traditional Red Colour Brazil and India,
personal notes.
Identification of Dyes by HPLC-UV-VIS:
Yarn Extraction
The HPLC-UV-VIS data, indicate that saffron (Crocus
sativus L.) can’t be identified after acid extraction.
„
Crocetin,
Crocetin, the colored component from saffron, hydrolyzes in 15 min
in acid extraction. The
T extraction of saffron from silk, following the
commonly employed procedures is not the best choice.
Crocetin
„
EDTA/DMF solution can be applied to extract crocetin from the
saffron yarn dyed samples without degradation, so it is an alternative
method in which concerns silk dyed with saffron.
14
Analysis of the accelerated aged dyed saffron
silk samples
EDTA/DMF solution can be applied to extract crocetin from the
saffron (Crocus
artificial ageing?
(Crocus sativus L.) yarn dyed samples after
a
„
Silk samples dyed saffron
Saffron
Days of artificial aging
Tussah silk without mordents (4)
3 days; 6 days; 9 days; 12
days
Tussah silk mordant - Al (4)
3 days; 6 days; 9 days; 12
days
Bombyx mori silk without
mordents (4)
3 days; 6 days; 9 days; 12
days
Bombyx mori silk mordant - Al (4)
3 days; 6 days; 9 days; 12
days
Results: Saffron dyed samples without
aged
0.0025
245 nm
Acafrao
Acid
extraction
Bombyx
moriacida
silk – dyed with saffron
hidrolise
0.018
0.016
0.014
0.008
crocins
0.0010
0.0005 262.6
20.504
16.248
0.002
562.9 626.6
641.3
555.6592.3607.0
653.6
651.2
683.1
634.0
697.8
700.3
715.0
720.0
747.0
734.7
589.8 609.4
262.6326.9
331.7
24.371
0.0000
13.999
0.004
2.080
2.569
2.965
AU
0.010
0.006
Tr=16,4min
0.0015
AU
0.012
441.1
441.1467.8 Tr=14,6 min e
467.8
0.0020
300.00
400.00
0.000
500.00
nm
600.00
436.2
460.5 Crocetin
0.006
2.00
4.00
6.00
8.00
10.00
12.00
14.00 16.00
Minutes
18.00
20.00
22.00
24.00
26.00
28.00
700.00
30.00
Tr=22,2 min
0.004
AU
0.002
715.0
629.1 747.0
528.7 614.3680.6
553.1
260.2
326.9
29.174
0.002
428 nm
14.640
15.86716.403
17.044
18.480
19.971
21.365
22.225
23.842
23.987
24.534
26.019
AU
0.004
EDTA/DMF extraction
1.322 1.710
1.433
1.575
0.006
0.000
350.0
300.00
0.012
Luteolin
Tr=18,5min
255.0
0.000
0.010
400.00
500.00
nm
600.00
700.00
AU
0.008
-0.002
Bombyx mori silk – dyed with saffron
2.00 4.00 6.00 8.00 10.00 12.00 14.00 16.00 18.00 20.00 22.00 24.00 26.00 28.00 30.00
Minutes
0.006
0.004
558.7
0.002
651.4 700.4
666.17 15.0
451.9493.1 590.4634.3680.8
522.2536.8617.2 739.5
0.000
300.00
400.00
5 00.00
600.00
700.00
15
Results: Saffron dyed samples with
accelerated aging
428 nm
0.006
Tr=22,3 min
0.005
AU
651.2
518.9550.7 653.6668.3
722.4
685.5
582.5619.3747.0
705.2
0.0000
300.00
400.00
500.00
nm
600.00
700.00
14.717
0.001
0.000
29.150
0.000
23.992
24.555
0.002
29.157
16.427
0.001
700.00
0.004
255.5
326.9
0.003
22.251
600.00
23.998
24.559
500.00
nm
19.978
400.00
14.681
300.00
21.399
0.002
18.514
AU
727.3
565.4
540.9602.1636.4 707.7
673.3 744.5
260.2
317.3
Tr=22,3 min
0.0004
0.0002
0.0000
Crocetin
19.991
AU
Crocetin
0.0005
0.003
433.8
458.1
0.0006
21.390
22. 248
0.0010
0.004
428 nm
Aging 6 days
0.008
0.007
436.2
458.1
0.0015
16. 447
Aging 3 days
0.005
AU
0.006
-0.001
2.00
4.00
6.00
8.00
10.00
12.00
14.00
16.00 18.00
20.00
22.00
24.00 26.00
28.00
30.00
2.00
4.00
6.00
8.00
10.00 12.00 14.00 16.00
Minutes
18.00 20.00 22.00 24.00
26.00 28.00 30.0
Minutes
EDTA/DMF extraction
0.00015
264.9
AU
-0.0001
0.003
300.00
400.00
500.00
nm
0.002
319.7350.8
558.0
621.7
0.00000
0.003
-0.00005
0.002
600.00
663.4
646.2 702.7
727.3
504.3538.5
0.00005 262.6
-0.00010
Crocetin Tr=22,3 min
438.7
455.6
0.00010
0.004
717.5
744.5
AU
310.2341.3
0.0000
0.004
Crocetin Tr=22,3 min
300.00
400.00
500.00
nm
700.00
600.00
0.000
0.000
16.428
14.645
0.001
22.237
14.665
0.001
16.413
AU
678.2
511.6
499.4
560.5
0.0001
0.005
0.005
663.4
700.00
24.059
436.2
460.5
0.0002
0.006
AU
0.007
428 nm
Aging 11,5 days
0.006
22. 239
0.008
-0.001
428 nm
Aging 9 days
0.009
-0.001
2.00
4.00
6.00
8.00
10.00 12.00 14.00 16.00
18.00 20.00 22.00
24.00 26.00 28.00 30.00
2.00
Minutes
4.00
6.00
8.00
10.00 12.00 14.00 16.00 18.00 20.00 22.00
Minutes
24.00 26.00 28.00
30.0
Sample no. 4583
15.819
28.045
28.423
28.830
19.951
20.177
20.724
21.232
18.037
18.679
13.243
0.000
14.426
15.542
10.823
11.375
11.531
11.930
6.219
2.108
2.433
2.960
3.460
4.080
4.375
AU
0.005
26.075
26.208
26.446
a 254 nm
0.010
24.433
24.933
0.015
8.722
0.020
1.332
1.613
Results: Historical samples
-0.005
-0.010
EDTA/DMF extraction
255.5
5.00
silk bombyx mori
10.00
15.00
Minutes
0.002
0.025
Tr=2,9 min 4-hba
methyl ester
350.8
255.5
0.020
0.001
0.015
570.3 665.9
385.4 462.9
528.7 592.3636.4742.1
366.2397.5438.7
0.010
550.7
715.0
683.1
AU
AU
0.003
0.000
300.00
400.00
500.00
nm
600.00
20.00
Tr=4,7min Tr=14,4
min, Tr=15,8min
0.006
Tr=18,7min e
Tr=21,3 min
0.004
Luteolin
436.2 484.8509.2
257.8 350.8 438.7 504.3545.8
555.6
526.3540.9
562.9
705.2
705.2
744.5
727.3
700.3
255.5 348.4 419.3462.9465.4526.3629.1
641.3
683.1
643.8
680.6
665.9
0.000
584.9
619.3599.6
700.00
0.005
300.00
400.00
500.00
nm
600.00
700.00
AU
-0.015
0.002
25.00
30.00
341.3
267.3 338.9
267.3 343.7
269.7
Tr=4,3min Tr=6,3min,
Tr=10,8min,Tr=11,5min e
Tr=11,9 min,Tr=13,2min
346.0 Tr=18,0 min
269.7 341.3
269.7269.7
267.3 341.3
343.7
0.000
300.00
Apigenin
526.3
475.1
533.6543.4 668.3
436.2
584.9
560.5
575.1
567.8
594.7
594.7
597.2
599.6
609.4
611.9
614.3
619.3
626.6668.3
553.1
690.5
722.4
744.5
739.6
558.0
533.6
673.3
678.2
702.7
705.2
742.1
732.2
670.8
458.1518.9550.7
453.2
460.5
506.7
482.4
475.1
460.5
516.5
497.0
480.0
514.1
494.6
470.2
631.5
636.4
641.3
646.2
651.2
653.6
634.0548.2
465.4462.9634.0
462.9499.4
400.00
500.00
nm
600.00
700.00
16
Comparison EDTA/DMF solution and
hydrolyze acid
EDTA/DMF EXTRACTION
ACID EXTRACTION
– Simultaneous extraction of
several classes of
compounds:
anthraquinons,
anthraquinons,
carotenoids,
carotenoids, indigoids e
flavonoids
– Method routinely used for 20
years for anthraquinoid (red)
and flavonoid (yellow) dyes
– Extraction of a high number
of carotenoids and
flavonoids
– Process less efficient for
indigoides which are more
hydrophobic but still allow the
identification
– Fiber sufficiently intact for
use in further examinations
as well as some minority
components.
– Destroys protein and cellulosic
fibers as well as some dyes:
carotenoides,
carotenoides, antocyanins,
antocyanins,
neoflavanoid,
neoflavanoid, and liquen dyes
– Degradation produts for
flavonoids and anthraquinoid
well known
Results: 17th/18th Portuguese bedspreads from
MNAA
Yellows
17th /18th
18th
N. 2137 – Weld + Madder N. 710 - Weld
N.3465 - Weld + yellow dye
Browns
N. 2137 – Weld
N. 3465
18th century
N. 710 - Weld + Young fustic
N. 710 - Weld + Indigotin
Reds
N. 710- 18th century
N. 710 – Safflower, Cochineal
and Cochineal + weld
N. 3465 - Safflower + weld
Greens
N. 2137 Weld + Indigotin
Madder+
Madder indigotin
N. 710 - Weld + Indigotin
N. 3465 – weld + indigotin
Blues
N.2137 - Indigotin
+ elagitanins
N.2137 17th/18th century
N. 710 and N.3465 - Indigotin
N. 710 and N.3465 – Indigotin + elagitanins
N. 710 - Indigotin + weld
17
Results: 18th IndoIndo-Portuguese bedspreads from NMS
Yellows
Browns
N. 159 – Turmeric
N. 390 – Weld and
N. 390 – Weld + Brazilwood
Brazilwood
N. 391 - Weld
N. 392 – Weld + Brazilwood
Reds
N. 159 - Kermes
NMS N. 390
NMS N. 391
N. 390 and N. 391 - Safflower + weldN. 710- 18th century
N. 392 - Brazilwood
N. 391 - Brazilwood + weld
Greens
N. 159 - Cochineal + turmeric
N. 390 e N. 392 - Weld + indigotin
N. 390 - Weld + Madder+ indigotin
Blues
N. 390 e N.391 - Weld + indigo
N. 390 - Indigotin + Madder
NMS N.392
N. 392 - Indigotin + elagitanins
NMS N. 159
Conclusions: Identification of dyes from
Portuguese bedspreads of MNAA and NMS
The data obtained in the bedspreads N. 710, N. 2137 and N. 3465 from MNAA and
N. 390, N. 391 and N. 392 from NMS agrees
agrees with the results published in
“Regimento da Fabrica dos Panos de Portugal”
Portugal” Ordenado no anno de 1690”
1690”
Lisboa:
Lisboa:
Dyers after 1690 are not allowed to:
Add Madder to Weld
Use brazilwood alone
Yellows
• Weld,
and/or Young fustic
N. 710 (18th century)
N. 2137 (17th/18/th century)
N. 3465 (18th century)
•Weld
N. 390 (18th century)
N. 391 (18th century)
N. 392 (18th century)
Indicate that this bedspreads could be dyed in
Portugal
• Turmeric
N. 159 (18th century) (NMS)
Indicate this bedspread could not be dyed in Portugal
• Weld, and Madder
N. 2137 (17th/18th century)
• Weld, and Brazilwood
N. 390 (18th century)
N. 392 (18th century)
Indicate that this bedspreads were
dyed before 1690
Reds
• Cochineal
N. 710 (18th century)
• Brazilwood
N. 390, N. 391 and N. 392 (18th century)
Indicate this bedspreads could be dyed
in Portugal after 16th century
18
Results: 16th -18th Indian bedspreads in acid
extraction
Reds
16th
/17th
18th
N. 112 - Lac dye
N. 1926 - Lac dye, cochineal,
N. 3413 - Madder
N. 4575 – Lac dye
N. 4581 – Lac dye
safflower, madder
N. 2232 - Lac dye, cochineal,
safflower, madder
N. 159 - Kermes
MNAA N. 2232
Results: Indian bedspreads in acid extraction and
EDTA/DMF solution
Yellows
16th
/17th
MNAA N. 1926
18th
N.112 – Weld
N. 1926 – Fustic
N. 2226 - Weld
N. 2232 – Fustic
N. 2237 – Madder
and weld
and luteolin
N. 2281-Degradation
products
N. 3692 – Madder
and luteolin
N. 3750–Degradation
products
N. 4582 – No dye
N. 4583 - Weld
Are the Indians yellow bedspreads dyed?
Tussah silk
Bombyx mori silk
N. 2237 and N. 3692 (16th/17th century)
N. 2226 and N. 4583
Dyed with madder and luteolin
(18th century)
N. 2281 (17th century)
Degradation products indicate
there was a dye
N. 4582 (17th century)
No dye components
Indicate that the yellow color was obtained
without dyeing, it was the color tussah silk
Dyed with weld
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Conclusions: Identification of dyes from
Indians bedspreads of MNAA and NMS
• Lac dye
Yellows
Reds
N. 112 (17th century)
N. 1926 (18th century)
N. 2232 (18th century)
N. 4575 (16th/17th century)
N. 4581 (17th century)
Indicate that this bedspreads were dyed
in India
• Madder and safflower
N. 3413 (16th/17th century)
N. 1926 (18th century)
N. 2232 (18th century)
• Fustic
N. 1926 (18th century)
N. 2232 (18th century)
Indicate that this bedspreads, could be
dyed in India
●Turmeric
N. 159 (18th century)
Indicate that this bedspreads, could be
dyed in India
• Weld
N. 2226 (17th century)
N. 4583 (17th/18th ?century)
This dyes can’t be used of attribute an
origin, they were common as dyes in
India and in Portugal, since antiquity
The use of weld in India is not known
This bedspreads could be dyed in
Portugal or in 18th century in India
where the commercials changes were
common
Conclusions:
•The identification of the materials used in the process of ancient
ancient IndoPortuguese bedspread in 16th - 18th centuries from MNAA and from
NMS allow the confirm of an origin:
–The identification of the fibers of the embroidery of the bedspreads allows:
-Attribute India as origin when the fibers is Tussah silk and/or cotton
-Attribute unknown origin when the fibers is Bombyx mori silk
- The identification of dyes of the embroidery of the bedspreads allows:
allows:
-Attribute Portugal as origin if there is Weld and/or Young fustic as dyes,
mentioned and ruled in a publication from 1690.
-Confirm or refute the dates of the bedspreads if there is mixtures of Weld and
madder or Weld and Brazilwood, mentioned and ruled in a publication from
1690.
- Attribute Portugal as origin if there is Cochineal and Brazilwood as dyed,
mentioned since 16th century.
- Attribute India as origin if there is Lac dye, Fustic and Turmeric as dyes,
mentioned since antiquity.
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Team project
„
Estaç
Estação Agronó
Agronómica Nacional (E.A.N.):
– Lisboa:
Lisboa: Carmo Serrano
„
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (M.N.A.A.):
- Lisboa:
Lisboa: Teresa Pacheco
„
Universidade da Beira Interior (U.B.I.):
– Covilhã:
Covilhã: Dr. Ana Lopes
„
Instituto Português de Conservaç
Conservação e Restauro (I.P.C.R.):
– Lisboa:
Lisboa: Dr. Ana Isbel Seruya
„
National Museums of Scotland:
- Edinburgh: Dr. Anita Quye
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