Project - "Debbie`s Kitchen Breakfast Nook" Page 5

Project - "Debbie's Kitchen Breakfast Nook"
With the cases done, I can start the face frames. I have
ripped poplar stock to 2" width and have cut them to the
various lengths for the three cabinets. Here I am just dry
fitting to double check the measurements.
Just as with the case pieces, I have drilled pocket holes
in the ends of each of the rails. I am applying yellow
carpenter's glue to the ends.
A part of the Kreg Pocket Hole system is this vise grip.
It has a wide plate that goes on the face side. I adjust the
seam edges by feel as I place the clamp. Once tightened,
the bottom, face, side is aligned.
Note that the screws are placed in the holes by hand.
This is a preferred method over placing the screw on the
bit and finding the hole. If you do the latter, there is a
chance that the screw will start in a place other than the
hole and cause a real problem.
Since this is poplar, I am using the standard 1 1/4"
screws.
I test fit the final frame.
I have completed all the frames and am using 1½"
finish nails and glue to attach them securely to the cases.
I am taking very precise measurements of all the
openings. It is time now to make the doors.
This is the first time that I have been able to use a new
software program that I just loaded on my computer. It is
called "Raised Panel Doors." It is a very low cost ($30)
program. It allows you to input all the variables of the
overlay, the stock, the bit set you are using, etc.
Frankly, I have always made doors by just measuring
and calculating it worked for me with an occasional
error. But I wanted to give this program a try. I did and it
is wonderful! [Click here for the demo site.]
I used to follow the guidelines in the CMT catalog (left).
They are well written and make the math as simple as
possible. The new program makes it even simpler. Once
you have input the two measurements for each opening,
you can print out a sheet (right) with every element
detailed exactly.
Project - "Debbie's Kitchen Breakfast Nook"
I have followed the print-outs for each of the 6 doors
and have cut each stile and rail piece exactly as specified.
I am using the CMT Sommerfeld Cabinet Making Set.
In addition to having the raised panel and rail and style
bits, it has an ogee bit that I will use on the outside edges
after the doors are completely assembled.
I am going to make the coping cut on the ends of the
rails first. The correct bit for this is the one with the guide
bearing in the middle.
I have installed the cope cutter and am adjusting the
height of the bit so that I have the 1/8" lip at the top of the
cut. I use the RouterRaizer to make this ultra fine
adjustment. I route a sample board to double check the
setting.
Here is my sample cut. I have the exactly right lip, so I
am ready to make all the cope cuts.
Note that for the test cut, I simply used the adjustable
fence rather than to use a zero clearance insert. Now that
I know the bit is set right, I will make an insert.
I start by placing a new insert in between the left and
right adjustable fences. I tighten them and press them
securely against the insert.
Standing behind the fence, I turn the router on and
slowly move the fence into the cutter. I stop when the
fence comes in contact with the pattern bearing.
With the router stopped, I trace an outline where I
will need to cut room for both the bit top assembly and
the bearing that is in between the cutters.
I have used my scroll saw to cut where I had marked.
With that done, I have re-installed the insert and used the
router to complete the cut.
Note: when making these zero clearance inserts, adjust
the fence slightly so that you can "widen" the opening an
1/8" or so. Also, be sure that the bit can rotate a complete
revolution before the router is turned on.
The last thing I do is to adjust the fence so that the
bearing lines up with the fence.
Here is how I make the cope cuts on the ends of each
rail. I have fastened a plastic push block to a piece of
scrap wood. This will serve as a guide to help me keep the
rail perpendicular to the fence and will serve as a backer
board so that I will not get tearout on the ends.
Remember that the face side is always down.
Once finishing all the end, coping, cuts, I changed to
the profiling cutter and have made a zero clearance insert
for that.
I am now running all the stiles.
When it comes time to profile the rails, I use a
pushblock in which I have cut the profile. I then push the
end of each rail into this cut edge and make the profile
cut along the rail edge.
This is a trick I picked up from Marc Sommerfeld's
videotape ["Arched Raised Panels Made Easy"]. It is an
extremely clever way to minimize tearout of the end of
the rail. Anyone making raised panel doors would be wise
to order a copy of this video there are many good ideas
on it.
I try the door in place. It is a 3/8" overlay door and is
exactly right in all dimensions. Between the new software
program, the CMT bit set and my careful measuring, I
have door frames that are as professional as you can get.
Now to make the raised panels.
Project - "Debbie's Kitchen Breakfast Nook"
I have installed the panel cutter. I have reset the bit
height so that the panel cutter's bearing aligns with the
tongue of a coped section. Note that this cutter is wide, so
I have lowered the router speed to 10,000 rpm as
suggested by the manufacturer. I have cut the panel
blanks to the exactly sizes specified by the software
program. I make each cut in 3 passes so as not too remove
too much in any one pass.
Here is the "work in progress." The other door blanks
are resting on the table saw at right. Even with making
each profile in three passes, this part of the operation goes
very smoothly and probably took 15 minutes total.
It is time to assemble. I have dry fit each of the frames
and "break them apart" to allow me to apply the glue on
each of the coped ends. The panels do not get glue they
float to allow seasonal shifts in the wood.
In the long doors where I have two panels, I insert the
center rail and match it to center marks that I have made.
I am placing 2 Panalign strips [CMT Panalign page] in
each of the grooves that surround the raised panels.
These strips are "spongy" and allow the raised panel to
be centered in the opening and still allow seasonal
movement. By the way, the software program allowed for
these spacers in their "options" setup page.
The assembly is progressing smoothly.
With it all together, I check for proper spacing of the
panels and double check that all the joints are aligned.
Having checked for square, I place one clamp to
squeeze the rail/stile joint and pop two 5/8" brads into the
tongue section on the back side. Then I move the clamp to
the next rail and do the same.
With all the doors assembled, I install the ogee door
edging bit and cut that profile.
If it seems like the shop is full of cabinets, it is because it
is. Sal is busy finishing the units so that we can get them
out of here and installed in Debbie's kitchen.
I will add the finished picture next week. In the
meantime, on to a new project.
This has been a fun project for Sal and me to do. Part of
the fun of any project, is to see it all come together and
look great. Another part of the fun is to have every part
of the shop work so well and for the various tools to
perform as they should. I especially liked the way the
new software worked, and I am always appreciative of
the performance of the CMT router bits and router table.
With a job like this, it just pays to use quality products to
make quality products.
Project - "Debbie's Kitchen Breakfast Nook"
We will have a little roll-reversal today. Sal is hanging
the cabinets, and I am helping and shooting the pictures.
He has removed the molding and is now removing a
portion of the window frame to make way for the first set
of cabinets..
Debbie is giving him a hand attaching the cabinets
together. The unpainted strip at the top is a spacer/
backer for attaching the crown molding.
With the cabinets hung, Sal shows Debbie what the final
look will be.
This "posed" shot gives you an idea of what the benches
are like in place.
Tomorrow, Sal will go back there to putty holes,
touchup and all that, and I will start on the table for the
dining nook.
This is Marc's drawing of the table he envisions for the
corner nook. I took some dimensions so I can start to
build it. More on that next week.
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/kitc-8.htm (2 of 2) [08/09/2008 16.06.41]
Project - "Debbie's Kitchen Breakfast Nook"
Making the pedestal base for the table is going to be a
lot of guess work. It should be large enough to hold the
table top and not flip over but not be so large that
people's feet can't maneuver underneath it.
When we tried chairs in place over at Debbie's, Sal and
I agreed that the base could be 14" X 10" for a table top
that is 34" X 58". Other than that, we will try to fit into
the sketch that Mark had made for us (previous page.)
I start by sketching a curve that I think will look nice
for the 14" dimension leg.
I cut to the line with my saber saw.
I smooth out the curve with my belt sander.
I am using 3/4" birch ply to make the pedestal. I want
to triple them so that each leg is 2¼" thick or three pieces
of 3/4" ply.
I use my first shaped side as a template to cut the next
side. I have marked the curve I want and have used the
saber saw to cut to about 1/4" to the line. The rest I will
use a pattern bearing bit to make an exact copy.
I screw the first cut (template) onto the next board to
cut.
I make the cut. I am using a CMT straight bit with a
top bearing that is guiding against the upper piece my
template.
Several cuts later, and you can see that I have done
the other side.
I have always used a smaller router for hand-held work,
but I must say that the "heavy" 3½ hp Hitachi M12 is a
dream to use. I think the "slow-start" makes the larger
motor easier to handle. It certainly cuts fast and easily.
By the way, whether you use a big or small router, be
sure to keep your pressure on the side that has a stable
platform underneath.
I had to shift the bit to the router table to shape the
narrower side legs. I didn't have room to clamp them for
using the manual router. If I had thought about it, this
would have been the ideal place to do all the cuts.
I spread glue over all the surfaces.
I use 1 1/4" narrow crown staples to tack the pieces
together.
I fit the side legs into the "mortise." I didn't actually
mortise the wider leg. What I did was to cut the two
outside pieces in half and then narrowed them. When I
glued them in place, they snugly fit against the narrow leg
just as if I had cut a dado the whole length.
This may give you a better look at the "mortise"
construction.
Project - "Debbie's Kitchen Breakfast Nook"
We decided that a drop leaf would be a great addition
to the table top. I know what a rule joint looks like but
haven't made one in 39 years. I did order two bits that
will allow me to make the joint. I ordered a 3/8" radius
cove bit (left) and a 3/8" radius rounding-over bit (right.)
The picture at the right is a sample cut. I started by
setting the cove bit so that it would cut about half way up
the side. I then switched bits and adjusted the rounding
over until the piece mated perfectly with the cove cut
board. It really worked very easily.
Here is a view of the bottom of the sample boards. You
will see that I ordered special "rule joint" hinges. They
are offset to allow for the joint.
If you look at the photo above, you will see that I
aligned the hinge point in line with the inside flat of the
table section [I have drawn a faint line on the photo to
illustrate this.) In fact, it is 3/8" from the bottom seam.
In the photo at the left, I have simply attached the hinge
without mortising it to see if I was at all close. I was. I will
mortise the hinges in the final table top.
With the sample working right, I can now cut the actual
joint. The table will be made of 3/4" plywood covered
with Formica. I do not want to profile the joint or fasten
the hinges in plywood, so I am using poplar for the joint. I
am cutting the table top shape on this pass.
I install a straight bit that I will use to smooth up the
rabbet portion of this joint.
This is the table portion of the joint after the round
over and the straight bit doing their work.
I have now installed the cove bit and have adjusted
the height per my sample. I am running the final board.
The table portion is on the right and the leaf portion is on
the left. I will rip this board in half and join these profiles
to the 3/4" plywood portions.
I want the poplar/plywood joint to be a strong one, so I
have installed the CMT Reverse Glue bit. I have set it up
using a couple of scraps of 3/4" plywood. I adjust the
height until my samples are aligned. Having done this, I
can now run the plywood panels.
Without changing the bit height, I run the mating
poplar pieces.
This joint is a great one for having a lot of gluing
surface. I use a brush to be sure that I get glue spread
evenly.
I will clamp these pieces and let them set overnight.
Well, I apologize for skipping a few steps in between.
Sal and I have been working steadily to complete this
table, and I simply forgot to get pictures as we went.
Fact is, you can see what has transpired. We added a
base to the pedestal and attached the plywood top. Then
we added a piece of 3/4" MDF to give us a total top
thickness of 1 1/2".
I will show the hardware we used and the adding of the
Formica next week.
Project - "Debbie's Kitchen Breakfast Nook"
There is nothing difficult about adding Formica to a
table. I ordered the laminate from my local Home Depot.
The Formica distributor is quite a ways away, so this is
very convenient.
It comes rolled up, so the very first thing I do is untie it
and let some of the flex out.
Actually, I laid the Formica flat on top of the new table
and let it sit over night. In the morning, it was nice and
flat. This makes handling the sheet much easier and safer.
I install the CMT Melamine and Fine Cut Off blade. It
has a reduced tooth angle that is ideal for cutting laminates
as well as melamine and MDF.
I have installed the Grip-Tites which will help keep the
laminate flat on the table. I am cutting a series of 2" wide
strips that I will use for the edging of the table.
I have quite a selection of tools for use with laminates.
They are: 1) cutting shears, 2) laminate file; 3) carbide
scorer for cutting; 4) "J"-roller; 5) laminate trimmer; 6)
laminate edger; and 7) manual laminate trimmer.
I used the Porter Cable trimmer (5), the file (2), the Jroller (4) and the laminate edger (6).
You have to plan which surfaces will get edged first.
In this case, I decided to edge the two end sections first. I
am using an inexpensive brush to apply a coat of laminate
adhesive. I am using the solvent based adhesive, so I made
sure that I had adequate ventilation.
Next, I apply a coat of the adhesive to the 2" strips. I
won't need them all now, but I can coat them all.
I let the pieces dry until they lose their glossiness and and
tacky to the touch. Since the table's edge is plywood and
MDF, I applied a 2nd coat to those surfaces.
All the surfaces must be tacky-dry before they can be
applied. This photo is to show "wet-areas" that are still
glossy and not ready to use.
I carefully align the edging keeping it from touching the
actual table. This is contact cement. Once the surfaces
touch, they can be impossible to pull off.
When it is aligned, I let the center contact the table top
edge and apply from the center out.
I smooth the laminate down with gentle pressure from
the "J-roller."
I use my laminate router and a straight bit to trim off the
excess on all four sides of the first piece.
I follow the small trimmer with a fine file. I only use
push strokes if you use pulling strokes, you will probably
chip or break the laminate. I want the edging to be
perfectly flat and level with the table top. The trimmer
did a great job. Here I am only fine tuning the top surface.
Project - "Debbie's Kitchen Breakfast Nook"
With the two ends done, I do the same on the sides.
Because of the rule joint, I am adding side pieces
separately. I will try to shape the laminate to the curve of
the rule joint.
I am using a small veneer roller instead of the J-roller
to press the side laminate to the edge. You can see the
square edge that I will need to shape to the profile of the
joint.
After using the trimmer to cut most of this piece flush
with the surface, I turn to a 1/2-round hand file to
contour the laminate. It is important to file only in one
direction towards the table. If you pull back, there is a
good chance that the laminate will chip or break off. The
laminate can be shaped pretty easily this way. You can
see that I have scuffed up the black paint that will be
easily touched up.
With all the sides done, I now apply adhesive to the table
top portion. I am doing the leaf separately after the top.
It takes longer this way, but I want to create a seam that
is as "seamless" as I can make it.
With the adhesive applied to both, I have laid sticks
across the cemented top. This will keep the laminate from
coming in contact with the top before I have positioned it
exactly. I have cut each piece of laminate about 1" larger
in all dimensions to make positioning easier.
I have removed all the sticks and am now using the Jroller to add pressure on the top. I am working from the
center to the edges.
Before using the trimmer, I make sure that any
adhesive is removed from the bearing, and I add a small
bit of oil to the bearing.
After running the trimmer around and cutting off the
excess, I use a piece of paper towel wetted with cement
thinner to remove any small traces of cement that may
have been left after the trimming.
The leaf is the last surface to laminate. I have clamped
the leaf in the down position and vertical so that I can use
the trimmer without having the leaf move.
With the table all laminated, Sal and I flip in over and
re-install the leaf hinge hardware. The upper piece holds
the leaf up in the table position. By pulling the black loop,
the leaf can fold down.
Well, it is done and is in its new home. Sal and I
managed to get it moved over to Debbie's house but had
to remove the top to get it inside. Thankfully, the top was
attached with a series of screws and was made to be
disassembled.
This is the final look of the table, the benches and the
cabinets. It was a fun project to do.