Yosemite National Park

A
Travel Guide
Yosemite National Park Hotels and Activities 2010
Sunset Travel Guide
Experience
California’s iconic
wilderness
3 | 24 hours of joy:
First time to Yosemite? All it takes is a
day to fall in love with it
4 | Golden weekend:
Enjoy three glorious days in the park
in autumn
6 | Yosemite’s top sights:
The quintessential landmarks you
don’t want to miss
9 | Adventures for all ages:
Amazing ways to explore the park—
biking, rafting, rock-climbing, and
more outdoor fun
11 | Yosemite’s best campsites:
Pitch your tent in Ansel Adams
country
9
13
6
2 Sunset Travel Guide
15 | Travel resources
cover: DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite, Inc.. this page: DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite, Inc. (3)
13 | Food & lodging:
The best amenities in and near the
park
Upper Yosemite Fall
24 hours of joy
First time to Yosemite? All it takes is a day to fall in love with it
How much excitement can you pack into one
day? In 24 hours, Jack Bauer regularly saves
the world. In 24 hours, God created light. And
you? You can construct the best day of your
life in Yosemite National Park. We show you
how to get the most out of the park. All you
need to know is where to go when, by following this hour-by-hour plan.
6 a.m.: Sunrise
The name may be gory—Slaughterhouse
3 Sunset Travel Guide
Meadow—but the view is heaven, with the
sun’s first rays washing the valley’s granite
walls and the Sierra peaks above them. It’s in
Yosemite Valley about a mile west of Camp 4.
8 a.m.: Hike
If you aren’t a person who gets up at 6 a.m.
to run into a meadow, you still need to see
Yosemite Valley in the morning. Take the free
park shuttle bus up to the Mirror Lake Junction: From there it’s an easy walk, and the
views of mountains reflected in still lake
water are unforgettable.
9 a.m.: Breakfast
You may think breakfast in the wilderness
must be foil-wrapped and dehydrated. Not in
the Ahwahnee Hotel’s baronial dining room
($$; 209/372-1489). Sunday brunch is the
famous meal here, but frankly it’s a little
overwhelming. We like regular breakfast:
specifically the raisin brioche French toast,
which will power you through the day.
10 a.m.: High times
Get some vicarious thrills. Take the shuttle to
El Capitan Picnic Area to see spring’s squadron of climbers ascending El Cap, largest granite monolith in the world. If you’re inspired to
learn to climb, stop by the Yosemite Mountaineering School (from $117; 209/372-8344).
11 a.m.: Waterfalls
May’s when the park’s waterfalls are at their
splashiest, and midday is the time to see
Yosemite Falls at their brightest, no longer in
the shadow of Lost Arrow Spire. It’s a short
stroll to the base of the Lower Fall from shuttle stop 6; it’s a tougher hike, though, to get
your face wet in the mist from Upper. Hike
the first steep mile (with 1,000-foot elevation
gain) to get to Columbia Rock and the amazing views.
Noon: Lunch
The park’s fast food options are okay, but we
prefer to grab bread, fruit, and cheese at
Yosemite Village Store (209/372-1253), then
take the shuttle bus to the picnic grounds at
Happy Isles, starting point for the next
adventure.
1 p.m.: Waterfalls
Time for cascades two and three in your
triple crown of waterfalls. Take the Mist Trail
1.5 miles to Vernal Fall; continue another 1.3
to Nevada Fall. The trail is gorgeous, but
occasionally harrowing (those narrow stairsteps carved into granite get our pulse
racing, anyway). The views are like entering
the world of Avatar, with no 3-D glasses
needed because you’re in real 3-D.
5 p.m.: Ice cream
Celebrate your hiking triumph with a double
cone at the Curry Village Ice Cream Corner.
6 p.m.: Photo op
At the west end of Yosemite Valley, the
Tunnel View Overlook (recently restored with
the help of the Yosemite Fund) is the world’s
best view, especially in late afternoon when
sun gilds the scene in golden light. Smile:
Here’s your holiday card for the year.
andrea m. gomez
Sunset Travel Guide
Sunset Travel Guide
Enjoy three glorious days in the park in autumn
ber because of snow, so this month is your last
chance to explore the area before spring.
Get on granite The short climb to the top of
Pothole Dome provides an ideal vantage
point for taking in Tuolumne Meadows. From
the pullout on the north side of State 120 at
the western edge of the meadows, look for a
winding granite path that leads first into a
grove of pines and then up the gently curving
rock face. The 0.5-mile trip to the top takes
less than 20 minutes and is easy all the way.
River walk The Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne
River is on the other side of State 120 from
the meadows. A meander along the river,
really more like a gentle stream this late in
the year, reveals quaking aspens and tall,
golden grasses. Trails extend for more than 8
miles up the canyon; make an out-and-back
hike of any distance.
Follow the sun On the drive back to Yosemite
Valley, you’ll pass several well-known landmarks, including Tenaya Lake (an easy, 2-mile
out-and-back hike begins at the south end of
the sandy beach and runs along the south side
of the lake) and Olmsted Point, where Half
Dome feels so close you can almost reach out
and touch it. For dinner, the Yosemite Lodge
at the Falls Food Court ($$; 209/372-1265) has
burgers, pizza, and spaghetti, and it generally
remains open until 8 p.m.
After the under-18 set heads back to school
and the swarm of summer visitors slows,
Yosemite National Park welcomes some of
the most comfortable weather of the year.
Aspens and cottonwoods turn from green to
gold, meadows are dotted with milkweed
pods spilling their silvery strands, and a
peaceful splendor invites you to relax.
Before winter comes, take a long weekend
to see the best of the park. Three days are a
Saturday: Yosemite Valley
There’s no need for a car; rented bikes and
the valley’s free shuttle will get you everywhere you need to go. Find a shuttle map in
the free Yosemite Today newspaper, available
at all park entrances.
Grand hotel breakfast The Ahwahnee
dining room (see Food & lodging, page 13)
serves the valley’s best breakfast. Afterward,
stop by the concierge desk to inquire about
free history tours of the hotel, usually offered
at least once a day on weekends.
Golden weekend
4 Sunset Travel Guide
perfect chunk of time to explore the park’s
three main areas: Tuolumne Meadows,
Yosemite Valley, and Wawona. Stay in the
valley—it’s central to everything, and reservations are easier to come by at this time of year.
Friday: Tuolumne Meadows
Spend the afternoon at a cool 8,600 feet an
hour and a half north of Yosemite Valley. Tioga
Road/State 120 usually closes by early Novem-
david zaitz (2)
Expansive granite views
from Yosemite Valley
right The Awahnee
dining room awes with
34-foot ceilings
Sunset Travel Guide
Hike to majestic Mirror Lake
right Rent bikes for a selfpowered tour of golden meadows
Famous footsteps Reserve three days ahead
for a photographer’s walk of Cooks Meadow,
along the Merced River, offered through the
Ansel Adams Gallery (tours start at 9 a.m.
Mon, Tue, Thu, Sat; free; www.anseladams.com
or 209/372-4413). Get tips on taking better
pictures, and find out where Ansel Adams set
up his tripod to snap some of the valley’s
famous views. Or follow the path of such
Yosemite heroes as Royal Robbins with a
beginning rock-climbing class from the
Yosemite Mountaineering School (from $117,
reservations recommended; in Curry Village;
www.yosemitepark.com or 209/372-8344).
Picnic among the aspens Sentinel Beach,
just off the Valley Loop Drive at the south
side of the valley, is one of the prettiest spots
for a picnic and a great place for wading in
the Merced River. Pick up lunch at Degnan’s
Deli (see Food & lodging, page 13), in the heart
of Yosemite Village.
5 Sunset Travel Guide
Two wheels, good to go Exploring the valley
by bike is a rite of fall. You can rent comfy
SoCal-style cruiser bikes in Curry Village
($25.50 per day; 209/372-8319; bike rentals also
available at Yosemite Lodge, 209/372-1208).
Heading north and west from Curry Village,
ride along 12 miles of paved bike paths, past
the Merced River and Swinging Bridge, taking
in the dry, golden meadows and craggy black
oaks. The valley’s famous waterfalls have
slowed to a trickle or disappeared entirely by
now, but you can see black streaks of lichen on
the granite where the rush comes in spring.
“When the falls go dry, we like to say Yosemite
Falls becomes Yosemite Walls,” jokes the
park’s Interpretive Operations chief.
Dessert before dinner As the afternoon
fades, ride over to the Mountain Room
Lounge at Yosemite Lodge to roast your own
s’mores on their indoor firepit (s’mores kits $3
at the bar). The Mountain Room Restaurant
Sunday: Wawona
Spend a few early-morning hours in the valley,
then drive south to this section of the park.
Lazy or adventurous? Splurge on the
Ahwahnee’s Sunday brunch buffet (Sun only,
reservations recommended; see Food & lodging,
page 13), then decide whether you’re in the
mood for a hike or a rest. The trailhead for a
3-mile out-and-back hike to Mirror Lake is
behind the hotel. Or pick up the Sunday
paper at the Ahwahnee Sweet Shop and
settle down by the fire in the Great Lounge
(nonguests are welcome in all public spaces
at the Ahwahnee).
Road-trip to the big trees Leave the valley
by late morning to get to Wawona and the
Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. At the
grove, you have two choices for exploring: a
narrated, open-air tram tour ($25 per person;
209/372-1240) or a meandering, self-guided
hike. Unless you’re completely pooped, the
hiking option is a more intimate experience.
The massive, 209-foot-tall Grizzly Giant is an
easy 0.8-mile hike from the parking area, and
the Fallen Wawona Tunnel Tree is a moderate
1.5-mile hike past the Giant.
Victorian spirit Four miles from the Mariposa Grove is the cheerful white-clapboard
Wawona Hotel. Check out the circa-1918 golf
course (free to stroll, $21.50 to play nine holes;
209/375-6572), the oldest in the Sierra. Have
trout for dinner in the hotel’s pleasingly retro
main dining room (see Food & lodging, page
13), followed by gooey pine nut pie.
andrea m. gomez, david zaitz
(see Food & lodging, page 13), just steps from
the lounge, is an elegant choice for dinner.
Spot climbers October is usually a prime
month for big-wall climbers on El Capitan
(stop at pullouts along the Valley Loop Dr. at
the southwest end of the valley). Watch them
in action during the day (bring binoculars), or
spot the twinkle of climbers’ headlamps on
granite by night.
Sunset Travel Guide
Bridalveil Fall and Leaning Tower
below Cooks Meadow, with a
view of Half Dome in the
background
The quintessential landmarks you don’t want to miss
Ahwahnee Hotel. Built in 1927 in a pristine
meadow with panoramic views of Glacier
Point, Half Dome, and Yosemite Falls, this
national historic landmark does justice to its
setting. Free history tours are conducted
(check with the concierge desk), but you’re
welcome to explore on your own anytime.
Among the highlights: the immense dining
room; the Great Lounge, with its walk-in fireplace and Native American-inspired decor;
and the Winter Club Room, which showcases
6 Sunset Travel Guide
Cathedral Rocks and Three Brothers from
Cook’s Meadow. Stroll the Cook’s Meadow
boardwalk, just west of Yosemite Village, for
a view especially spectacular in winter. Looking southwest you’ll see Cathedral Rocks
(center, wrapped in clouds) and, to the right,
Three Brothers.
Cooks Meadow. See where Ansel Adams
snapped some of the valley’s famous views
while strolling or biking the Cook’s Meadow
boardwalk, just west of Yosemite Village.
DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite, Inc. (2)
Yosemite’s top
sights
park memorabilia such as ski equipment
used at Badger Pass in the 1920s (see Food &
lodging, page 13).
Bridalveil Fall from Tunnel View. One of the
West’s most memorable cascades, Bridalveil
Fall can be seen throughout Yosemite Valley.
Take in sweeping views of Yosemite Valley,
Half Dome, and Bridalveil Fall from Tunnel
View.
El Capital reflected in the
Merced River RIGHT Half Dome
You’ll get fantastic views of Cathedral Rocks
and Three Brothers and if lucky, spot a mule
deer or black bear that depend on the
meadow habitat.
El Capitan. El Capitan, a favorite with climbers, is one of Yosemite Valley’s many aweinspiring granite sentinels. The granite face,
formed by glaciers eons ago, rises more than
3,000 feet. To watch climbers in action (bring
binoculars), stop at pullouts along the Valley
Loop Dr. at the southwest end of the valley.
Glacier Point. Hop in the care for a one-hour
drive to Glacier Point from Yosemite Valley.
Gaze out over one of the earth’s greatest
panoramas: Half Dome, Basket Dome, and
Liberty Cap. For die-hards: Take the hikers’
bus up to Glacier Point, then hike Four Mile
Trail back to Yosemite Valley.
Half Dome. Visiting Yosemite without seeing
Half Dome is like heading to Paris and not
taking a picture of the Eiffel Tower. It’s one of
7 Sunset Travel Guide
the park’s most iconic landmarks. Half Dome
can be seen throughout much of eastern
Yosemite Valley. Take in the view on a 2-mile
round-trip hike to Mirror Lake. For diehards:
Hike 14- to 16-miles to the top of the 5,000foot granite formation traversing the last 400
feet on metal cables. The reward is expansive
views of Yosemite Valley from 8,800 feet
above sea level. (For a Half Dome hiking guide,
visit nps.gov/yose.)
Hetch Hetchy. Hang a left before the Big Oak
Flat entrance to Yosemite, and you’re en
route to Hetch Hetchy, the park’s hidden
jewel, where looming granite walls and three
waterfalls wrap an 8-mile-long reservoir.
Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. Walk
among giants in Wawona at the Mariposa
Grove of Giant Sequoias. At the grove, you
have two choices for exploring: a narrated,
open-air tram tour ($25 per person; 209/3721240) or a meandering, self-guided hike.
Unless you’re completely pooped, the hiking
option is a more intimate experience. The
massive, 209-foot-tall Grizzly Giant is an easy
0.8-mile hike from the parking area, and the
Fallen Wawona Tunnel Tree is a moderate
1.5-mile hike past the Giant.
Merced River from Sentinel Bridge. Catch
some cool views on Sentinel Bridge looking
over Merced River and taking in majestic Half
Dome. Autumn colors frame the river in this
scene. If you’re planning a visit in summer,
lazily catch the views from a rafting trip.
Tioga Road & Olmstead Point. Take the
39-mile scenic drive (Highway 120) between
Crane Flat and Tuolumne Meadows and stop
at turnouts along the way that offer beautiful
vistas. Take Tioga Road to the popular
Olmsted Point, where Half Dome feels so
close you can almost reach out and touch it.
The 9,945-foot Tioga Pass usually opens by
Memorial Day (as does the road to Glacier
Point) and stays open until mid-November
but call the park switchboard to check
(209/372-0209).
Tuolumne Meadows. Spend the afternoon at
a cool 8,600 feet in Tuolumne Meadows, an
hour and a half north of Yosemite Valley. The
short climb to the top of Pothole Dome
provides an ideal vantage point for taking in
Tuolumne Meadows. From the pullout on the
north side of State 120 at the western edge of
the meadows, look for a winding granite path
that leads first into a grove of pines and then
up the gently curving rock face. The 0.5-mile
trip to the top takes less than 20 minutes and
is easy all the way.
Vernal and Nevada Falls. Vernal and Nevada
Falls, can be seen close up on the popular
(and strenuous) 1.5-mile Mist Trail. The trails
will be crowded in spring to mid-summer
when flows are at their peak, however the
waterfall views are some of the West’s most
memorable. (Note: Be prepared to get wet.
The spray from the falls can be more than
“mist” during spring and early summer.)
Wapama Fall. Leave the throngs of summer
DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite, Inc. (2)
Sunset Travel Guide
Sunset Travel Guide
Tuolumne Meadows above Merced River
and the north face of Half Dome left Mariposa Grove’s massive sequoias
tourists in your dust at the 1,240-foot-tall
Wapama Fall at Hetch Hetchy reservoir. The
base of the fall is at the turnaround point for
a gorgeous, fairly easy 5-mile round-trip hike.
Wawona. On the south side of the park, you
can explore pioneer history and luxuriate by
the fire at the historic Wawona Hotel. For an
easy hike before lunch, try the 3 1/2-mile
Meadow Loop, starting near the Wawona
Hotel. The cheerful white-clapboard Wawona
Hotel is four miles from the Mariposa Grove
and is decorated in period style. Or spend a
relaxing afternoon at the Pioneer Yosemite
History Center, a depiction of early pioneer
life in Wawona. In addition to relocated
buildings dating from the 1850s and ‘60s,
8 Sunset Travel Guide
there’s a charming covered bridge (the oldest
in California) spanning the South Fork of the
Merced River (see Food & lodging, page 13).
Yosemite Falls from Glacier Point. Give yourself a “Yosemite facial” by standing in the
spray along the footbridge at the base of
2,425-foot Yosemite Falls for a few minutes.
The two-tier falls is one of the tallest in the
world.
Yosemite Valley. Quiet hikes and lazy picnics
are yours for the taking in Yosemite Valley.
Soak in the peaceful splendor that invites you
to relax under expansive granite views.
History The National Park was born
here. On June 30, 1864—with the
nation still fighting the Civil War—
President Lincoln signed a bill establishing a preserve in California’s
Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove of
Giant Sequoias. For the first time in
human history, a natural landscape
was set aside so that a nation’s citizens
could explore it, have adventures in it,
and revel in its beauty. Take one look at
Yosemite Valley—say, the classic first
glimpse from Tunnel View Overlook—
and you understand why Lincoln did
what he did. There’s no more spectacular scene in the world than this glorious
wonderland in the Sierra Nevada.
Getting there Yosemite lies 195 miles
east of San Francisco, 175 southeast of
Sacramento, and 90 miles northeast of
Fresno. The main gateway towns to
Yosemite are El Portal, on California
140 just west of the park; Mariposa,
also on 140 30 miles southwest from El
Portal; Groveland, on California 120
west of the park; and Oakhurst, on
California 41 south of the park. The
entrance fee is $20 per vehicle.
When to go Yosemite is a four-seasons
park. Summer is the busiest time, with
highs in the 80s and occasional thunderstorms. Fall offers warm days, cool
nights and fall color. Winter brings lows
in the 20s, considerable snow at higher
elevations and lesser quantities in the
valley. Spring is gorgeous, with blossoming dogwoods, splashing waterfalls
and highs in the 60s.
The park’s influence Yosemite has
human history fully as fascinating as
its natural history. It has inspired
magnificent architecture in the Ahwahnee, among the grandest of the
national park hotels, stunning art in
the landscapes of painter Albert Bierstadt, eloquent photography in the
works of Ansel Adams. It shaped the
life of America’s most famous environmentalist, John Muir. We’ll let Muir
have the last word on the place he
loved: “Nowhere will you see the
majestic operations of nature more
clearly revealed.”
More information National Park
Service (www.nps.gov/yose or 209-3720200); DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite (www.yosemitepark.com or
209/372-1236); Yosemite Association
(www.yosemite.org); The Ansel Adams
Gallery (www.anseladams.com); The
Yosemite Fund (www.yosemitefund.
org); The Yosemite Store (www.
yosemitestore.com)
clockwise from top: kDNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite, Inc. (2), Alaskan Dude (on Flickr Creative Commons)
Park 101
Sunset Travel Guide
Adventures for
all ages
Amazing ways to explore the park—biking, rafting, rockclimbing, and more outdoor fun
Spring, summer, fall
Bike on comfy SoCal-style cruisers available
for rent in Curry Village. $25.50 per day;
209/372-8319; bike rentals also available at
Yosemite Lodge, 209/372-1208.
Horseback ride to Chilnualna Falls, Mirror
Lake, or in Tuolumne Meadows. Two-hour,
half-day, and full-day rides are available at
three locations through DNC Parks & Resorts
at Yosemite from spring through fall. From $60
for a 2-hour ride, reservations recommended;
9 Sunset Travel Guide
www.yosemitepark.com.
Raft or kayak the Merced River. You can rent
an inflatable raft and drift 3 miles down the
Merced River, taking in majestic Half Dome
and towering Yosemite Falls. Rafting rentals
and permitted locations, www.nps.gov/yose.
Rock climb with Yosemite Mountaineering
School. Yosemite has been a rock climber’s
haven for a century--you can learn, too, at
daily classes offered by the school. From $117
for a 6- to 7-hour class, reservations recommended; in Curry Village; www.yosemitepark.
com or 209/372-8344.
Hiking, bird-watching, photography—these
are just some of the enjoyable courses
offered by the Yosemite Association. www.
yosemite.org or 209/379-2324.
DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite, Inc. (2)
Climbing is one of the most popular
and exhilarating park pursuits
below Riding scenic trails on a
guided horseback tour
Sunset Travel Guide
Kayak the river and scenic
lakes right Snowshoeing
against one of the West’s
best backdrops
with a fine view of this lovely waterfall.
Trailhead: Happy Isles (shuttle stop #16).
Distance: 1.6 miles round-trip. Difficulty: easy.
Ice-skate at the world’s most beautiful
outdoor rink. $8, $3 skate rental; at Curry
Village; 209/372-8319.
Skiing and tubing at Badger Pass Ski Area is
ideal for families: No crowds, and beginning
and intermediate runs. Lift tickets from $33,
rentals from $25.50; tubing $15; www.yosemite.
org or 209/372-8430.
Snowshoe with outings lead by The Yosemite
Association. From $50, including equipment;
reservations required; www.yosemite.org or
209/379-2321.
Hiking year-round
One of the best ways to see Yosemite is by
foot. You can find trail descriptions and maps
through the National Park Service (www.nps.
gov/yose).Here are our top picks for Yosemite
hikes by region:
10 Sunset Travel Guide
Yosemite Valley
Half Dome It’s on a lot of people’s life list of
adventures—the demanding hike/climb up
8,800-foot Half Dome. Allow at least 10
hours, and know that the last 900 feet of trail
is a steep climb up the dome, with you clinging to cables for the final 400-foot ascent.
Trailhead: Happy Isles (shuttle stop #16).
Distance: 14-16 miles. Difficulty: hard.
Lower Yosemite Falls In Yosemite Valley, a
short, very pretty hike with a great reward in
the view of the falls. Trailhead: Lower Yosemite Fall Trailhead (Shuttle Stop #6).
Distance: 1 mile loop. Difficulty: easy.
Mirror Lake A two-mile trail leads to this
lake and surrounding meadow, particularly
pretty in early morning. Trailhead: Shuttle
Stop #17. Distance: 2 miles round-trip.
Difficulty: easy.
Vernal Fall It’s a .8-mile hike to a footbridge
Wawona and Glacier Point Road
The Grizzly Giant In the Mariposa Grove, an
easy hike to one of Yosemite’s most impressive sequoias. Trailhead: Mariposa Grove
parking lot. Distance: .8 miles. Difficulty: easy.
Taft Point A mostly flat walk through forest
leads you to this promontory and eye-popping
views of the Yosemite Valley.
Trailhead: Taft Point/Sentinel Dome parking
area. Distance: 2.2 miles. Difficulty: moderate.
DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite, Inc. (2)
Winter
Tolumne Meadows
Gaylor Lakes This shortish hike climbs to
give you incredible High Sierra views.
Trailhead: Tioga Pass Entrance Station.
Distance: 2 miles. Difficulty: moderate.
Pothole Dome This short climb provides an
ideal vantage point for taking in Tuolumne
Meadows. From the pullout on the north side
of State 120 look for a big meadow that leads
first into a grove of pines and then up the
gently curving rock face. The 0.5-mile trip to
the top takes less than 20 minutes and is
easy all the way. Trailhead: State 120 at western edge of the meadows. Distance: .5 mile.
Difficulty: easy.
Sunset Travel Guide
Yosemite’s best
campsites
Pitch your tent in Ansel Adams country
Plunging waterfalls, stark granite, alpine
lakes, pristine meadows, giant sequoia trees,
and meandering rivers lure more than 3
million visitors to Yosemite National Park
each year. And since everyone comes for the
scenery, why spend the night walled off from
it? Get up close and personal with Yosemite’s
grandeur at one of 13 park campgrounds,
each graced by the starry skies and sweet
mountain air of the majestic Sierra Nevada
Mountains.
11 Sunset Travel Guide
In Yosemite National Park
Porcupine Flat, White Wolf, Yosemite Creek
(all profiled below), and three additional park
campgrounds—Bridalveil Creek (Jul–early
Sep), Camp 4 (year-round), and Tamarack Flat
(Jun–late Sep)—are first come, first served.
Reservations are a must at all others (reserve
up to five months in advance on the 15th of each
month; reservations.nps.gov or 800/436-7275).
Seven-day pass $20 per vehicle. www.nps.gov/
yose or 209/372-0200.
Porcupine Flat. Situated 38 miles from
Yosemite Valley, it’s often the last to fill up on
summer nights, and it’s ideal for exploring
the high country. 52 sites Jul–mid Oct; $10. No
running water. 209/372-0200.
Alaskan Dude (on Flickr Creative Commons), DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite, Inc.
Saddlebag Lake below Hike
from your campsite to views
of Yosemite Falls
Sunset Travel Guide
Yosemite
camping tips
top left Scenic seclusion right Aspens in
fall at Big Bend above Ellery Lake left A tent
cabin at White Wolf Lodge
White Wolf. Nestled in a lodgepole pine
forest at 8,000 feet, the campground
provides a taste of the Yosemite high country
without the drudgery of backpacking. The
camping gods are smiling on you if you score
site 28 (our favorite), 22, or 23—the largest
and most private options. White Wolf offers a
few luxuries, including delicious meals at
neighboring White Wolf Lodge ($$; breakfast,
box lunches, and dinner daily, reservations
required; 209/372-8416). Trails to Lukens and
Harden Lakes lead from the camp. 74 sites
Jul–early Sep; $14. 209/372-0200.
Yosemite Creek. The campsite provides the
most seclusion of any car campground in the
park, but the price is a 4 3/4 -mile drive off the
12 Sunset Travel Guide
highway via a narrow, pothole-littered road.
40 sites Jul–early Sep; $10. No running water.
209/372-0200.
Outside the park
Big Bend. Set in a quaking aspen and Jeffrey
pine forest alongside Lee Vining Creek, Big
Bend is a perennial favorite of Yosemite
veterans. It’s just 9 miles from the park’s
eastern boundary. 17 sites late Apr–Oct 31; $19.
Inyo National Forest, www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo or
760/647-3044.
Ellery Lake. The granite-backed lake
surrounded by jagged peaks lies 3 miles west
of Yosemite’s eastern border at an elevation
of 9,500 feet. The best sites are set off from
the main camp by a short walk. 21 sites May–
Sep; $19. Inyo National Forest (see above).
Saddlebag Lake. At 10,087 feet, the location’s
a major entrance point for the 20 Lakes
Basin, a favorite hiking and angling area. And
it’s only 5 miles outside Yosemite’s eastern
boundary. Sites 16 and 18 have a lake view to
die for. 20 sites Jun–mid-Oct; $19. Inyo National
Forest (see above).
Sawmill. Each campsite has a drop-dead
gorgeous view of the High Sierra—mountain
peaks, a sub-alpine meadow bisected by a
rushing stream, and scattered whitebark
pines. If there’s camping in heaven, this is
what it looks like. 12 sites May–Sep; $14. No RVs;
no running water. Inyo National Forest (see
above).
Summerdale. Located 1 1/2 miles from Yosemite’s southern entrance, Summerdale is set at
5,000 feet in elevation on Big Creek. Many
campers spend summer afternoons cooling
off in the creek’s deep, clear swimming holes.
29 reservable sites mid-May–Sep; $20. www.
reserveusa.com or 877/444-6777.
clockwise from top left: Mat Honan (on Flickr Creative Commons), jcookfisher (on Flickr Creative Commons), im247frogs (on Flickr Creative Commons), DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite, Inc.
Show up right around checkout (10 a.m.
in Yosemite Valley; noon at all other park
camps) to get your pick of available
sites as campers vacate.
Be bear aware. Don’t leave food or
any other scented items (cosmetics,
toiletries) in your car or tent—store
them in your campsite’s bear box.
Outside the valley, be as self-sufficient as possible—it’s a haul to the
nearest store.
Sunset Travel Guide
Hotel rate key
$ inexpensive under $100
$$ moderate $100-$175
$$$ expensive $175-$250
$$$$ splurge $250 and up
Tuolumne Meadows Lodge. Simple cabins
The historic Awahnee
right Yosemite Lodge
at the Falls couldn’t have
more apt of a name
Food & lodging
The best amenities in and near the park
Lodging in the park
All lodging within Yosemite is handled by the
park concessionaire, DNC Parks & Resorts.
Reservations can be made by calling 801/5595055 or visiting www.yosemitepark.com.
The Ahwahnee. This grand, 80-year-old hotel
is by far the poshest (and most expensive)
lodging in the park. The fabled 1927 hotel has
three wings, each oriented toward a major
feature of the park: Half Dome, Glacier Point,
13 Sunset Travel Guide
or Yosemite Falls. The hotel is named for the
Ahwahneechee, a local band of Native Americans. $$$$.
Curry Village. Rustic lodging in Yosemite
Valley: simple motel rooms, cabins and tent
cabins, some with bath, some without. $.
Housekeeping Camp. In Yosemite Valley, one
step up from camping: inexpensive concrete
and canvas lodging; they supply beds but you
supply the linens. $.
Lodging outside the park
A Far Meadow. Now you can overnight in the
Sierra National Forest on the edge of Yosemite where the closest thing to a crowd is a
herd of deer. Designers Heinz Legler and
Veronique Lievre brought their unusual
vision to these four rental cabins, including
an A-frame inspired by a ’50s Sunset cover,
but updated with a floating staircase and
solar panels. $$, A-frames $$$; three-night minimum; 310/728-6158.
Best Western Yosemite Gateway Inn. Basic
accommodations, with the added bonus of a
mountain view or garden setting; many rooms
have balconies and patios. In Oakhurst; $$;
www.yosemitegatewayinn.com or 800/545-5462.
Best Western Yosemite Way Station. A full
range of amenities, including complimentary
continental breakfast, an outdoor pool, and
tennis courts. In Mariposa; $$; www.yosemitebestwestern.com or 209/966-7545.
Chateau du Sureau. Extremely elegant rooms
DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite, Inc. (2)
(no electricity) gathered around a central
dining tent. Summer only. $$.
Wawona Hotel. Beautiful 19th century hotel;
small rooms, but quiet, pretty setting. $$-$$$.
White Wolf Inn. Off Tioga Road; 4 cabins
with bath, 24 tent cabins without. $.
Yosemite Lodge at the Falls. Modern, motelstyle lodge, conveniently located; its Mountain Room restaurant is good. $$$.
Sunset Travel Guide
in an Austrian chateau recreated in the Sierra
Nevada foothills; the adjoining restaurant,
Erna’s Elderberry House, is among the best in
California (see right). In Oakhurst; $$$$; www.
elderberryhouse.com or 559/683-6800.
Evergreen Lodge. Cluster of historic cabins
now nicely restored, including 24 recently
opened ones with interiors by San Francisco
designer Charles de Lisle; adjacent tavern
and restaurant. In Groveland; $$; evergreenlodge.com or 209/379-2606.
The Groveland Hotel at Yosemite National
Park. On Groveland’s attractive Main Street,
this historic hotel (portions date back to 1849)
is nicely spruced up. Good restaurant too. In
Groveland; $$; www.groveland.com or 800/2733314.
Tenaya Lodge at Yosemite. Attractive modern
hotel near the park’s southern entrance. In
Fish Camp; $$$-$$$$; www.tenayalodge.com or
888/514-2167.
14 Sunset Travel Guide
Yosemite View Lodge. Large modern motel
evening outdoor bbq is a must. $$-$$$.
near the park’s west entrance. In El Portal;
$$-$$$; www.yosemite-motels.com/yosemiteviewlodge or 888-742-4371.
Dining outside the park
Dining in the park
For information and reservations, visit www.
yosemitepark.com.
Ahwahnee. The hotel’s dining room is
famous for its lavish Sunday brunches, but
regular breakfast is good here, too. Reservations recommended. “Resort casual” attire—
e.g. no shorts or tank tops. $$$-$$$$.
Degnan’s Deli. Coffee and sandwiches near
the Visitor Center. $.
Mountain Room Restaurant. At Yosemite
Lodge at the Falls, not as picturesque as the
Ahwahnee but good steak and wine list. $$$.
Wawona Dining Room. Delightfully old-fashioned, both in setting and menu: pot roast is
a favorite here. In summer, the Saturday
Castillo’s Mexican Restaurant. Local favorite.
In Mariposa; $$; 209/742-4413.
Erna’s Elderberry House. Austrian-born Erna
Kubin-Clanin has brought European haute
cuisine to the Sierra foothills. In Oakhurst; $$$;
www.elderberryhouse.com or 559/683-6800.
Groveland Hotel. Handsome dining room in
historic hotel; good wine list. In Groveland; $$$
(see Lodging outside the park, above).
Savoury’s. Ambitious fine dining for a small
town. In Mariposa; $$-$$$; 209/966-7677.
david fenton, DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite, Inc.
A Far Meadow’s
Sunset-inspired A-frame
RIGHT Wawona Dining
Room
Sunset Travel Guide
Travel
resources
Find more inspiration for travel in the West
on Sunset.com
Explore secret California
From lava beds to gushing waterfalls, northeastern California
is home to numerous delights. Go fishing, hiking, and road tripping through this hidden corner of the Golden State.
www.sunset.com/travel/california
Visit Yellowstone National Park
Yosemite is but one of the West’s dazzling national parks.
Yellowstone is not to be missed, and we share tons of info on
exploring the park, including where to see geysers, wildlife,
and the park’s most stunning landscapes.
Sunset.com/travel
Your ultimate resource for travel in the
West, Sunset Travel is packed with tips
on the best places to go, from National
Parks to urban retreats. Get inspired
with Sunset’s ideas for fun weekend
trips or the ultimate Western vacation.
www.sunset.com/travel
CA’s best autumn
escapes
Yosemite isn’t the only surefire bet for
an unforgettable fall trip. From perfect
beach weather to vibrant harvest and
crush festivals, California shines in
autumn. Plan ahead and find fabulous
off-season deals.
www.sunset.com/travel/california
15 Sunset Travel Guide
clockwise from left: xanterra parks & resorts, thomas j. story (2)
www.sunset.com/travel/rockies
Sunset Travel Guide
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