verarbeitung papier fototapeten_en.indd

The correct workmanship for photo murals (paper) 9 steps for a perfect wall covering
At the workmanship of photo murals you always have
to remember that the material is a special paper but in
the end it is just only paper. When the material comes
into contact with moisture it gets sensitive against mechanical stress - so you have to work more carefully.
4. Budging in the paste
1. Tools
5. Line-marking
You don‘t start without the right tools - you need:
• folding ruler, pencil and a spirit level - for the linemarking
• spatula and priming material for the surface (the wall)
• a sharp pair of scissors for tailoring the photo mural
• a wide paint brush to spread the paste
• a foam roller to press the mural on the wall
• a good cutter knife to cut out the electrical outlets
and light switches
2. Preparation of the wall
The paper of the photo mural is relatively strong but
it cannot do wonders at the bridging of unevenness’s.
So in the end the finished photo mural is just as good
as the surface and therefore you have to prepare it as
good as possible.
We also deliver the paste with the most photo murals.
The mixing ratio of paste and water is specified on the
packing or the supplied manual. One last tip on budging: the best tool is a mixer - no clumps of paste. But
don‘t forget to clean it carefully.
The following sizes are possible for photo murals:
• 8 parts
• 6 parts
• 4 parts
• 4 parts - athwart
• 2 parts (door posters can also be adhered on the wall)
• 1 part
The situation for the 1-parted, 2-parted, 4-parted and
6-parted murals is really clear – you can put the parts
arbitrary on the wall, so we just explain the procedure
for the 8-parted wallpapers.
After recording the exact position of the mural, you
draw a horizontal and vertical line in the middle of
each side of the wall with the spirit level and the pencil.
As profile you just have to turn around the spirit level
and look if the bubble is even for both directories – if
not, you have to throw away the old spirit level and get
a new one.
We recommend the removing of woodchip wallpapers
- it works really easy with a wallpaper remover. Holes
have to get filled; latex- and oil paints should be whetted.
After the preparation the perfect surface is even and
regularly absorbent to soak up the paste and to warrant a good drying.
3. Spreading out the photo mural
Even if the space is sometimes rare - you should always
spread the fitting parts next to each other over the
floor. In rare cases it can happen that a significant difference of the colors appears (that happens sometimes
at the producing of the mural) - then you can reclaim
the mural, but only if it wasn‘t cut and processed with
paste.
It is in actual fact impossible that the size is differing.
If two parts don‘t fit dimensionally then something
didn‘t work at plastering or soaking.
6. Pasting
You paste the backside of the first part regularly but
not too thick – the first part of the 8-parted murals is
part no. 4. Please also paste the edges very particularly.
Important: The pasted element is not permitted to
soak. After ca. one minute it has to get pressed on the
wall. Otherwise the size would change and the other
parts don’t fit correctly.
If you hire a painter, then you also should mention these
tips to him before the beginning of the work – not
every professional can do it all!
7. Putting on the first part
8. Putting on the second part
The next element which gets put on the wall is part no.
3. The mural gets a little bit shorter when it dries, so
you have to overlap the parts for ca. 2 mm.
Smaller air bubbles disappear when the mural gets dry.
You begin with part no. 4 (sub-row, second part from
left) as we mentioned before. Benefit: You avoid problems with non-rectangular walls and small mistakes
don’t sum up so much like at the workmanship from
left to right.
You adjust the element on the drawn lines and even
it with the foam roller. We work outwards from the
middle, the air under the mural leaks on the sides. The
odd paste gets dabbed carefully with a smooth clout.
9. Finishing and cutting
You proceed with the elements no. 6, 2 and 8 from subrow. After this the upper row follows with the parts no.
5, 1 and 7.
Warning: Our machining manual refers to the numbering of the elements as indicated in the image below.
Some photo wallpapers have a different numbering,
for example 1-4 in the upper and 5-8 in the inferior
row.
1 3 5 7
2 4 6 8
The best temperature for the drying is ca. 20°C. As always at wallpapering works you have to mind that no
draught appears – even the air gets a little bit thick, the
window stays closed.
If supernatant edges appear, then you cut them on the
next day- the perfect wall cover is finished.