Traditional Jasmine Tea from FujianProvince

.,..,
I
Traditional Jasmine Tea
from Fujian Province,
China:
Ethereal Cups of Sublime Tea Drinking Pleasure
.
By Mary Lou Heiss
PROFILE
Mary Lou Heiss is the co-owner of Cooks Shop Here in Northampton,
Ma (www.CooksShopHere.com)
a
unique tea and specialty foods store established in 1974. She is the aUthor of Green Tea: Hot Drinks, Cool
Quenchers
and Sweet and Savory Dishes, and co-aUthor
Cultural History and Drinking
or me, there is no more splendid
F
than
the rich, luxurious
jasmine
genus:
blossoms
Jasminum).
botanical
arrived
at the
I discovered
perfect
time.
carries the lingering aroma of these blossoms
of
great distances.
Oleaceae,
On a recent
garden
aroma
fragrance
(family:
China's
trip to a
that
I had
The various
have
exotic
aroma.
I closed
my eyes,
deeply,
and let the transcendent
conjure
up dreamy
and
inhaled
images of exotic
places
exhilarating
the
garden
aromas,
I
drunk
on these
began to mentally
Flower scented
been
enjoyed
in China
examples
teas
found
can
be
puerh,
white
for centuries,
of these seductive
in several
of these
classes of tea.
different
classes
with
of
specific
associated
producing
regions, and within each class of
teas developed.
these teas are known as the
blossoms dominates
the area during the hot
and humid summer, and the gentlest
The ArI of
TEA
while
breeze
others
populations
..
are
more
of tea
basis. Nevertheless,
each
of
'Famous Teas'
familiar
drinkers
tea
Many of
jasmine tea factory
of jasmine
tea
became
China's revered teas still exist today-some
fragrance
and
teas such as jasmine
and delicious
tea many special
in Fujian Province, China.
of
of thousands
relive the visit I made last y~ar to a traditional
There, the pervasive
24
oolong,
Historically,
and warm sultry nights.
As I left
green,
different
fragrance
list
of leaf styles in six classes of tea
bloom, and I was thrilled to be surrounded
of this heady
impressive
of variations
yellow.
a concentration
and
teas is comprised
-black,
by
long
exceptional
species of resident jasmine vines were in full
such
with Robert J. Heiss of The Story of Tea: A
Guide.
to local
on a regional
of these teas
la
pi
IA
reflects regional taste preferences
and local
lea
tea making traditions in these regions.
)1
Since the tumultuous
Flamboyant
days of the China
and sweet-tempered
is the primary
China's
scented
jewel
teas,
~5
Tea Trade in the 18th century,
a
embraced
d
the perennial
e
exotic flower-scented
;,
imbuing the lush, sweet perfume of aromatic
e
blossoms to tea leaves was perfected
e
the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). In the earlier
pluck, the freshness
Tang Dynasty
jasmine
many Chinese
the West has
teas,
but one of
favorites is China's heady
teas. The process
(618-907)
cakes were flavored
and
compressed
of
during
tea
with sweet fruit pastes
jasmine
in the crown
and in the north of
China one is most likely to be served a cup of
jasmine tea before
or after a meal. Serving
,iasmine tea to guests is considered
a sign of
hospitality and welcome.
There are many quality grades
tea, determined
blossoms
of jasmine
by the fineness of the leaf
and condition
fresh blossoms
levels of jasmine tea are manufactured
to the
base tea. Different quality
flower-loving cult of Ming-era tea processors.
range from the sophisticated
Since that time the addition
the mundane
perfume
II
jasmine,
II
(magnolia)
:5
of delight
drinking.
of the glorious
of fresh chrysanthemum,
osmanthus,
rose,
gardenia,
and
blossoms has provided
to the relaxing
pleasure
yulan
moments
of tea
of
times fresh jasmine blossoms are introduced
to the prepared
belongs
of the
used and the number
and sometimes flower oils, but the addition of
to leaf tea
of
China
producing
and
and sublime to
and cloying.
is a vast country
and many tea-
provinces cultivate jasmine flowers
and manufacture
Fujian, Guangdong,
jasmine tea. These include
Hunan, Jiangsu, Jiangxi,
Sichuan, and Zhejiang provinces. As with any
The Art Of Tca Magazinc
25
scented
jasmine
Fujian
tea is historically linked to
Province
in eastern
China.
Here,
jasmine tea has always been the specialty of
tea
factories
Changle,
located
in the
on the outskirts
vicinity
of Fuzhou
of
city.
Fortunately
for today's tea aficionados,
skilled tea workers in small local tea factories
located
When you experience just one taste of
the delicate flavors and intoxicating
grades
aromas of these traditional jasmine teas
you will appreciate the difference.
jasmine
there
ta ke pride
of specialty
follow
the
jasmine
required
tea
in their artisan
steps
tea
and still
of traditional
manufacture
to scent
their
exquisite teas.
When you experience
delicate
these
just one taste of the
flavors and intoxicating
traditional
appreciate
Ming-era
jasmine
the difference.
aromas
of
you
will
teas
I like to think that
tea lovers would be delighted
know that these
teas
are still being
to
made
today.
Since the days of the China Tea Trade,
Fujian
commodity,
of
standardization
product
produces
undistinguished
tea.
quality
tea
jasmine
consumption
restaurants
teas
and uniformity
and
for general
for
in Chinese
use
larger and coarser
pluck
with fresh blossoms.
Even worse, these inexpensive
spraying
is
leaf) and are given only
one or two scentings
are often 'scented'
(which
jasmine teas
in tea factories
tea leaf (of whatever
by simply
origin and
place
The Art of
TEA
have
one special
where they are best understood
interpreted,
26
teas
and, accordingly,
rolled Tieguanyin
and
traditionally
Souchong,
pine-
the revered
(Iron Goddess
of Mercy)
oolongs teas. Fujian jasmine teas are highly
regarded
not only for the quality of the leaf
but also for the ethereal
quality of the fresh
jasmine blossoms (Arabian Jasmine Sambac)
that ~:ue cultivated on jasmine bushes grown
in the environs of the tea factories.
In Fujian
class of tea) with jasmine extract.
But all Chinese
Lapsang
of key
Da Hong Pao and Ti Lo Han, traditional
varieties of bud-set white tea and the ball-
both in China and the west. These
use summer-harvest
trove
Wuyi Si Da Ming Cong Cliff Oolongs such as
Much of the lowest
is made
a treasure
Chinese teas such as the broad-leafed,
smoked
common,
has been
Province,
leaf
from several
different
bush varieties of Camilla Sinensis is
plucked
to make
various styles of jasmine
tea. This includes leaf from white tea varietals
such as Fuding Do Bai (Fuding Big White) and
Fuding Do Hao (Fuding Big Sprout), which hail
Pouchong tea is made solely for use in flower
scented teas.
Jasmine
from the vicinity of the town of Fuding. This
tea is a two-step
process
that
leaf is used to make white jasmine teas such
begins in the spring and is finished in mid to
as the long, downy-hair
late summer.
Silver Needles
and Jasmine
covered
jasmine
bud-only
(Bai Hao Yin Zhen),
Dragon Pearls, a leaf and bud-
set white tea that is made
Do Bai varietal.
from the Fuding
Jasmine
Dragon
Pearls
hand-roll
the
on a different
However,
these
cycle
and do not produce
their famous blossoms until the sweltering, hot
and humid days of late July.
Because
of this offset
production,
ahead
leaf into a finished 'pearl.'
the base
in the timing
tea
of
must be made
of time and packed
arrival of the aromatic
teas are the exception.
from freshly
plucked spring leaf but jasmine bushes flower
requires the use of this slightly larger leaf, so
that workers can successfully
The tea is made
up to await the
flower blossoms. When
The base tea used for most Fujian jasmine tea
the time is right for the blossoms and the tea
is special. Jasmine tea is often referred to as
to be 'married'
being
the base
tea,
but,
that it is able to absorb
while some specific varieties are made
from
jasmine
green
or white or oolong
tea must be such
the perfume
blossoms as completely
of the
as possible
white tea, most Fujian jasmine tea such as
i"nto every pore of every leaf. And this ability
Jasmine
is controlled
Silver Hair (Yin Hao Jasmine)
and
Jasmine Spring Hao Yo are made from a
base tea that it is similar to all of these but
readied).
different
enzyming
from them.
Correctly,
this tea
is
by the nature of the base tea.
This base
tea
is called
Zoo pei
zoo
is made
pei
(tea
by first de-
the fresh leaf, then by rolling the
;
Pouchong
with
leaf to break up the cell structure within the
oolongs from Taiwan
which are true oolongs that have been given
leaf. The leaf is then quickly dried with
indirect heat from hot air that is blown over
a light oxidization
the
Baozhong
tea
(not to be confused
or Paochong
visually different
and
which
possess
a
leaf style). Every province
leaf
machine.
as it travels
This creates
through
a drying
a very different
leaf
that man~factures
jasmine tea will use a
different base depending on preferences of
style than leaf that is dried by direct-hea.t
the local population,
so in some places
China black tea is used.
These traditional
Pouchong
is best understood
in
as a very
methods
expose
such as pan-firing
techniques
or basket firing.
of drying would
the leaf to heat that is too hot and
the leaf would curl and twist; the object
in
lightly oxidized tea that is not bruised as in
creating
traditional
somewhat straight and flat in order fo retain
the maximum amount of surface area for
enzymed
oolong
manufacture
but is de-
as in green tea manufacture.
the exception
of the preference
Fujian for drinking pouchong
With
by locals in
zoo
pei
is to
absorbing the fragrance
keep
the
leaf
from the blossoms.
as finished tea,
The Art Of Tea Magazine
27
....
a
At this stage the zoo pei will be stored in
the opening
flowers, the actual
blossoms are ready
zoo pei stores well
occurs
overnight.
Around 8:00 PM the
blossoms are introduced and mixed with the
during this resting period. The tea waits until
zoo pei and then rested for a short period.
the jasmine
Depending
to be introduced
to it.
blossoms are ripe for plucking;
scenting
of the
the tea factory until the time that the jasmine
Being slightly oxidized,
on the
quality
of tea
after the threat of any residual dew on the
used
blossoms
blossoms
Following this, the flowers and the leaf are
blossoms
raked into a heap where they will mingle for
has vanished.
to heat
Jasmine
and cool-the
as much as 10 pounds
si
Sl
being
made,
for everyone
fI
of the zoo pei
this task is carried out in the early afternoon,
respond
of flowers is
pound
of zoo
pei.
z
9
remain closed until the build-up of the day's
about
heat encourages
begins, as the moisture in the blossoms raises
h
the temperature
h
them to open at night.
Starting around
noontime,
plucking
the tightly closed
continue
plucking throughout
Pluckers evaluate
based
workers begin
blossoms,
and
the afternoon.
which blossoms to pluck
on color (blossoms
should be white,
not ivory) and by the length of the shaft from.
the base of the blossom to where it is
attached
to the bush. As with freshly plucked
6 hours. It is here that the scenting
in the heap to 40-45°C (104-
113°F).
This is the ideal environment
absorb
the jasmine
for the leaf to
scent.
The scenting
process is actually a transfer of the fragrance
from the moisture-filled
blossoms into the
moisture-reduced
heap
. The
zoo pei
size of the
the fragrance
point
must be neither too small nor too large,and
where
they
are
bagged
for their
transfer
to occur-the
journey to the tea factory.
For the best
aroma, it is essential that the blossoms travel
it must take into consideration
from the collection
temperature
point to the factory within
temperature
perfume
By 4:00 PM the blossoms arrive at the tea
of the room.
of the heap
heap
the ambient
If the internal
is not perfect
the
of the blossoms will not be properly
absorbed
by the
zoo
pei,
and
if the
becomes
the blossoms spread out in a room that has a
will develop.
It is in these heaps that the zoo
temperature
pei, exposed
maintained
and
at 38-40°C (100-104
OF).Here, the heat will encourage
the flowers
to open. The goal is to have the flowers open
just halfway, the point at which the workers
can see the center
of the blossom. Flowers
are sifted and any that have not opened
discarded.
!he Artof
TEA
are
oxidizes
too hot, a bad flavor
to a buildup
during
the
of heat,
lengthy
slightly
process
of
absorbing the flower scent.
Around 1:00-2:00 AM the heap is flattened,
spread
out, rested, and heaped
again.
The
blossoms and the zoo pei will be allowed to
'marry'
c
again
in the second
heap
s
t
temperature
factory, where the bags will be emptied
s
is critical to the heat buildup and for
leaf, the blossoms are taken to a collection
a few hours of being picked.
28
To accommodate
for an
additional
4-6 hours.
flattened
morning,
and
When
spread
the blossoms
sifting the tea through
the
out
heap
in the
is
early
will be removed
by
bamboo
sieves. The
spent blossoms will be discarded
and the zoo
pei will rest until the second
round of scenting
The first scenting is the most critical, as the
zoo pei must absorb
as much fragrance
in this first introduction.
inductions of blossoms will follow-as
9 subsequent
scentings
are given
as
lessens. When the tea is
finished,
the moisture
increased
about
content
will have
15% and the tea will need
to have a final firing to stabilize the leaf. After
this, some
jasmine
teas
are given
layer of perfume
and to 'lock
in' the inner fragrance.
For export
tea,
jasmine
blossoms
added
for 'looks' more than for establishing
many as
aroma.
Most Chinese tea drinkers (except
to the
those in Sichuan
high scenting;
their jasmine tea. Because
of tea will be
given 4 to 5 scentings, and the most common
time it takes to repeatedly
teas, only one or two scentings.
grades
scentings-the
jasmine
and rested in between
manufacture
requires
But, the zoo
close
of Yin Hoo
to a month
to
of
jasmine
manufactured
available
to the
scented,
blossoms
can experience
temperature
in the heap is reduced
and the
tea,
the
newly
until October
dedicated
workers in Fujian, today's
the
scent the highest
in the marketplace
time that a batch of tea is
used,
of the length of
or
November each year.
Thanks
are
flowers in
teas do not usually become
complete.
Each additional
fewer
for
and Beijing and the areas
north of Beijing) do not like added
pei must be cooled
are
Further
highest grades of jasmine tea, which is called
lesser grades
a final
scenting to coat the surface of the leaf with
an additional
begins.
possible
time of 'marrying'
jasmine tea.
several
artisan
tea
tea connoisseurs
exciting
choices
in
I"'TEAI
The Art Of Tca Magazine
29
-----
--
----
F
\
had
made
him
around looking for answers? He
questions.
liked thinking they had. Like him,
And besides, these were the wisest
walking
had they too sought
men around,
sure, though.
teacher
after
questions
thousands
out one
another?
that
only
And
released
more in turn? Had they
really found all the answers? Were
their
clothes
also tattered
sleeping outdoors?
that mattered.
from
Maybe none of
His questions
did,
Like poetry,
so his questions
becoming
of a
That night he slept in a small
cave he found
mountain.
around
halfway
up the
The fog had rolled off
dusk
and the night
dreamt.
when
There
sky
palace he'd
were a few
he had stopped
to
wrapped
wall.
his robes about him and
He
thought
about
the
wipe the sweat from his dirty brow,
animals that had all lived in there
that he'd wondered
over
why teachers
time.
ago, but he still loved making
away from people
-- --
He
leaned back against the small cave
pulled
up
they
was a part of that fulfillment?
Then,
live in the
yet, maybe
felt fulfilled? Maybe this openness
present. He'd learned all that long
should
and the breeze
him? Vowing not to stop until they
journeys
One
closer,
too had come down long roads like
always lived up in the mountains.
seeker.
The air was clearer.
here? Or better
times,
wasn't
so
rambling life waiting for it.
the top.
or past
again. Now he wasn't
quieter. Maybe they just liked it up
once
the future
start
one chance, and he'd spent a long,
what he would ask when he got to
knew that dramatizing
and
the stars
shown like a diamond
He
had
smile
to be perfect. He might only have
though. He again began pondering
He was rehearsing.
they are.
he'd thought
it was to keep
like him. That
Their
without
lives.
question,
Their
almost
or led. How unfortunate.
He loved his journey. He loved the
-
----
I
J
The Art Of Tea Magazine
35