Amsterdam Denim

The growing number of denim brands setting up in Amsterdam
has seen the cities role as European denim capital grow apace in
recent years. Stylesight visited the cluster of brands concentrated
in and around the Dutch capital to discuss the flourishing denim
scene and why Amsterdam has become such a pivotal location
for denim. In six exclusive interviews, Stylesight sits down with the
key brand speakers to find out more.
Amsterdam’s fashion image has turned a decided hue of indigo blue with the city
fast becoming the modern heart of the international denim industry. The
Netherlands strong economic climate and logistical location has influenced major
modern denim brands to set up their headquarters here, whilst the thriving denim
culture amongst young locals has given birth to a gaggle of smaller denim ateliers
and concept retail stores. The city has given birth to international labels G-Star
and Scotch & Soda, and smaller start-ups like K.O.I. have grown to thrive in
recent years. Even purist labels like Levi’s Vintage Clothing and Denham have
recognized Amsterdam’s pivotal position in denim and have relocated their design
studios there. The newly conceived House of Denim Jeans School is the latest
indicator of Amsterdam’s investment in its “home-grown-talent” in the next
generation of denim artisans.
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HOUSE OF DENIM »
K.O.I. »
DENHAM, THE JEANMAKER, Head Office | +31 (0) 20 3315039
Prinsengracht 493-495, 1016HR, Amsterdam
In 2008, The DENHAM HOUSE opened its doors on Prinsengracht 493 – 495 in the
desirable “9 Streets” area of Amsterdam. Located across two connected buildings,
the authentic and naturally beautiful space has been carefully refitted to give shape
to DENHAM’s design studio, showrooms and the first own-retail presentation.
Developed by Jason and his creative team, the monumental canal house manifests
the spirit of the DENHAM label and brings to life the brand’s various inspirations
and obsessions.
From the start, Denham The Jeanmaker (with a pair of scissors as the brand icon)
has distinguished itself by targeting the upper segment of the luxury jeans market.
Balancing progressive design with original jean craftsmanship, each DENHAM jean
blends the finest denim fabric with state-of-the-art design details to create a jean
with unique style with a solid foundation. Renowned for their obsession with
tradition and quality, the brands "Garment Library" provides a deep and unique
source of inspiration for their design process. Each season, Jason and design
director, Liam Maher pour through the archive uncovering secrets of the past and
reinventing them with through faithful and contemporary reproductions.
Known for: Balancing progressive design with original jean craftsmanship.
Obsessive, tailored details combined with premium selvedge fabrics.
Key Retailers: Selfridges & Co Ltd, American Rag, Revolver, ASOS
Hangs With: 3x1 Scott Morrison, Edwin, PRPS, Engineered Garments
Price Point: £110 - £350 (retail)
Years in business: 4 years
Q: Can you tell us a little about your design process and inspirations?
A: My design process starts in two places at the same time, firstly in research. We
see ourselves as the current caretakers of the workwear tradition and in doing that
it’s our responsibility not to go backwards, because the folks before
us wouldn't have wanted us to do that. Yet they wouldn't have wanted us to
abandon the progress that they made either. So we go back and we're forever
digging through old vintage product, looking at books on the subject. We have
archival pieces around us that we become very intimate with and are constantly
reevaluating and rediscovering new things in pieces we thought were familiar to us.
Connected to that is the people we meet when we acquire those pieces. We are
lucky enough to go all over the world and speak with people who are equally
passionate and we learn stuff from them all the time.
The second process is the part about wanting to move things forward and being
inventive. It’s a hugely ambitious thing that at any moment in time we can add
anything to a 200 year-old tradition, which is humbling, but it’s done by trial and
error so we have to be willing to cut into stuff we respect in order to see how far we
can go. We work really hard to follow through on these ideas so that when you’re
down in the shop, you can see how the archive piece transformed into the final
product. If we are successful in that, hopefully the customer can see something new
– at least a combination of new ideas and elements we've innovated as well as
features that they are familiar with or have found feelings for.
Q: Why do feel Amsterdam is so important for DENHAM?
A: I guess the well-crafted answer is that in marketing terms that Amsterdam is
flawless. As an American being here for a long 12 years, I look around these streets
and see so much cultural history compared to what I would see in America. In
Amsterdam you are surrounded by history, and in a very intimidating way, unlike
London, Rome and Paris that have this daunting stuff that gets romanced and
elevated to the point that mortals can't reach up to the culture around them. Dutch
people, and Holland as a society, are all really accessible, but it still has this
unbelievable history. On the historical side you have things like The Golden Century
and The Dutch Masters, but there’s also that bravery of pursuing modern design
that is also very vibrant here. Amsterdam is the home of unbelievable architecture
and contemporary and industrial design with people like Droog design group and
Remcool Haus. So you have the mix of old and new design all around us, which
really aids my creative process.
Q: What’s inspiring you right now?
A. For F/W 12 its the idea that you can worship tradition further back and destroy
convention further forward. Normally up until now, F/W 12, we would have said that
we tend to go back to the industrial revolution where workwear as we know it was
being created, specifically blue jeans but also the European stuff and also the great
wars, especially WWII (1940s) where there was a lot of functional innovation in
clothing. So 1940s to turn-of-the-century/late 1800s was where we would have
stopped – we would go that far back and no further. And in modernity we go to the
present day with the iPhone and whatever current fabrics are being developed by
the mills. So we go from right here today until turn-of-the-century. For the current
collection we have been partly inspired by the space expedition company that
approached us, which has meant we can reach into the future
G-STAR RAW, Head Office | +31 (0) 20 5677600
Keienbergweg 100, 1101 GH, Amsterdam
G-Star RAW is one of the denim market’s permanent fixtures as well as one of
the Netherlands’ most innovative exports. It was along the banks of the IJ that GStar began its worldwide advance with its single-minded approach and fusion of
high-level craftsmanship with street level edge. G-Star’s distinctive denim
silhouette has evolved through Design Director, Pierre Morisset’s adoption of
architectural and 3-D thinking into denim construction. Iconic items like The
Elwood and The Arc pants are detrimental to the brand's DNA and remain
cornerstones in the current collections today.
The foundation of G-Star is based on its democratic denim offering. Beneath the
mainline G-star RAW umbrella lays a number of premium sub-brands including;
RAW Essentials, a handcrafted limited edition line for the denim purists, the RAW
Correct Line for everyday fashion essentials, and the environmentally responsible
RAW Sustainable program. Acclaimed designer, Marc Newson also adds his
unique design aesthetic with an ongoing diffusion line and a number of other
celebrated designers are invited to collaborate on one-off projects.
Known for: Extensive selection of high-quality denim products, all designed to be
functional and wearable, while at the same time having an innovative and avantgarde look.
Key Retailers: ASOS, Ssense, Revolve, Selfridges & Co
Hangs With: Denham, Diesel, Replay, Energie
Best Sellers: The Elwood, The Arc Pant, 3301
Price Point: £90 - £140 (retail)
Years in business: 23 years
Q: What makes Amsterdam so key for denim and the G-Star brand?
A: The big advantages that we have in Holland are that we have so many people
who are wearing denim and denim is such an acceptable product here. It’s so
interesting for denim labels because you can really sell volumes out of this country
even though it has such a small population (16 million people).
Q: G-Star is constantly challenging convention and pushing the boundaries
of denim design. What drives the inspiration and innovation behind this
each season?
A: Our Design Director, Pierre Morisset, has one of the biggest denim archives,
which always helps – we travel a lot and we also have a very dedicated design
team. But inspiration can be drawn from anywhere. We once made an entire
collection from an old aircraft helmet, where there were stitching details in the
helmet that we thought were so interesting that we translated it into our denim. It’s
these sorts of details that we look out for and that we like.
Q: G-Star recently launched RAW Tailored Atelier and will be releasing the
Red Listing program for S/S 13. Do you feel the premium scene is growing in
the mainstream or was it simply something that you thought was key to GStar?
A: For sure. I see that the premium market is growing and I also see that there is a
big need for personalizing, especially in the mass-produced world that we live in.
For people who spend more than the average price, then these kinds of incentives
are getting more and more important.
Q: With denim as the core business and G-Star's signature technical
designs it creates a strong feeling of menswear throughout the G-Star
brand. How do you ensure the business is balanced?
A: People who have bought G-Star from the past always link it with our Men’s
collection, but if you look very objectively to the older items and you don’t have
that history, you don’t see or feel that. If you go into our womenswear store you
see the basic ingredients of the wood and concrete and steel still there, but now
with the combination of velvet, carpet and organic shaped lamps it’s so feminine
but still in a very denim-related way. What I see also is that the store is performing
from day one unbelievably well, and it has only been ten days.
LEVI'S® VINTAGE CLOTHING, Head Office | +31 20 5720200
Olympisch Stadion 33, 1076, Amsterdam
World-renowned cult denim brand, Levi’s® Vintage Clothing is one part of the
creative entity by Levi Strauss & Co. Based in Amsterdam alongside counter-part
Levi’s® Made & Crafted, this global division manages the talent behind design,
marketing, sales and brand presentation. Headed by Design Director, Miles
Johnson, the division is responsible for maintaining the rich history of the Levi’s®
brand, uncovering the secrets of the past and bringing them back through faithful
reproductions.
Each season, the design team pours through the Levi’s® archive in San Francisco
(dating back to the 1870s) and recreates their most iconic pieces using a mix of
modern aging techniques and traditional Levi’s craftsmanship. Each collection is
dedicated to capturing the spirit of American workwear, with each garment
meticulously reproducing the fits, fabrics and characteristics associated with a
bygone era. Alternately, Levi’s Made & Crafted represents the future of Levi’s® as
the new, clean and modern counterpoint to LVC, pulling elements of the rich storied
archive to curate updated and timeless pieces for the current season.
Known for: Iconic pieces from the brand’s back catalogue are re-imagined,
combining premium materials, a keen eye-for-detail and a rich appreciation of
heritage production.
Key Retailers: American Rag, Mr. Porter, Journal Standard, Unionmade, Son of a
Stag
Hangs With: Lee the Archives, RRL, PRPS, 45rpm, Rising Sun & Co.
Best Sellers: Shrink-to-fit Selvedge denim Jeans, Washed straight-leg fits, 1947 &
1954 501®
Price Point: £140 - £365 (retail)
Q: What makes Amsterdam so key for denim?
A: There are a lot of people that have been attracted to Amsterdam for several
reasons – mostly because there is an incredible tax break for companies, but also
because it’s a very central place within Europe to be able to conduct business. We
can get from here to all of our European manufacturers very easily. Personally for
me, its a very nice city to be in because its very calm, stress-free and fairly relaxed.
Q: What was the decision for LVC to move from Belgium to Amsterdam? Why
not San-Fran?
A: At that time around 3 1/2 years ago, our then European President Armin Broger
decided to take the premium section of the brand and put it independently in
Amsterdam. I think it was a very smart choice because it gave us a lot of freedom –
not that we didn’t have freedom to do things before but when you are working so
closely with the mainline and red-tab you tend to get too involved in “how am I
going to do this thing in premium that will filter down into red-tab.” So working with
independence just makes you naturally grow in other directions that you might not
of thought about doing. We are able to plough into new grounds, rather than create
something for future commerciality, which isn’t really necessarily what we should be
doing for the premium part of the brand.
Q: Is there a particular denim style or look that is unique to Amsterdam?
A: I wouldn’t say that Amsterdam is on the map for trends. You very rarely see any
sartorialist type of people around the city. However, there are a lot of creative
people here, especially outside of the fashion industry. Architecture is very
fundamental to how healthy Amsterdam is, and product design is also very
progressive here.
Q: What’s your favorite place to shop for denim in the city?
A: There are nice shops here and there throughout the city, but there isn’t a
particular district. Tenue de Nîmes, Cowboys2Catwalks, 290 Square Meters are all
good stores. Secondhand is also very good here – there are some great places
around the Nine Streets.
Q: What’s your involvement with the House of Denim Jean School?
A: The school came in, as they wanted to see the office and how we work as a
dynamic. We booked them into the showroom and I spent some time talking to
them about the 501, explaining about our history from 1873, the product and what it
was, and how it has changed. I showed them an original 1920s 501 jean next to a
modern copy so that people could see how close we are to the original and
explained how we reproduced it.
K.O.I., Head Office | +31 (0) 20 5095557
Johan van Hasseltweg 27, 1021KN, Amsterdam
Kings of Indigo may be one of Amsterdam’s newest denim family members, but
they’re already putting their stamp on the market with their consciously developed
denims and sustainable credentials. Now in their third season since launch for S/S
12, K.O.I. boasts a ratio of 80% recycled to 20% organic cotton, positioning the
brand as the industry’s first genuinely eco company with a commitment to fair trade
manufacturing, minimized production and transport CO2 emissions.
Forthcoming for S/S 13, Kings of Laundry takes the next step in denim wear for the
on-coming era with some sophisticated eco washes. The concept uses advanced
techniques such as ice-blasting, ozone and laser technologies. In September 2012,
K.O.I. launched their first pop-up store in Amsterdam’s De Negen Straatjes (“9Streets”) district to showcase its Triple-R concept and second evolution of blue
dyed denim. Initiated in collaboration with KICI (Netherlands’ largest independent
clothing collecting charity) and House of Denim, the Recycle, Re-use, Repair
program came alive with an in-house denim technician to repair broken jeans and a
recycling bin to donate old wears.
Known for: Quality denims inspired by American classics with a Japanese eye for
detail. Recycled and organic denims ranging from raw selvedge fabrics to artisanal
washes.
Key Retailers: 14oz, Bendorff, Blue Jeans Company
Hangs With: Kuyichi, Edwin, Nudie Jeans, Edwin, Levi’s® Water Less jeans™
Best Sellers: Galan- tapered fit, Clovis – regular slim fit, John – super slim fit
Price Point: € 99,95 - € 239,95 (retail)
Q: What makes Amsterdam so key for denim?
A: I think in the past twenty years we’ve developed a real love for denim. If you look
at Amsterdam's denim scene before G-Star, there was hardly a premium offer or
innovation in the market. G-Star was one of the first to come to Holland, start quite
basic and then innovate. Although its not my personal style, I think its clear how
they’ve developed their vision of the brand and I think there are a lot of Dutch
companies or Dutch-based like Pepe (where I joined in 1997) that have followed
them as an example. Its not only a Dutch influence but also Jason (Denham) is
English and Pierre Morisset (G-Star) is French, so its not solely the Dutch, we
brought it here together.
Q: How do you feel sustainability has developed in the denim industry over
the past ten years?
A: The will is getting there more and more in the industry and the possibilities from
the mills is increasing – Isko, Orta, TRC Candiani all have organic or recycled
fabrics. The price is a little bit more but not that much. Now they have to develop
fabrics that are easier to wash without water, so the fabric suppliers have to work
together with the laundries to make sure they correlate. If you look at the market
you see almost no progression, but if you really think about it mentality-wise, a lot
has changed, including what is available from the industry now – there is a huge
difference. I think it will get there but not next year, not in five years but maybe
twenty years.
Q: What are the latest developments in eco-denim that you have seen
emerging?
A: For me, the biggest development is the variety you can get in recycled denims.
Royo for example are working on new mixes with a little bit of recycled cotton and
recycled polyester to make it stronger, but also with indigo canvas, herringbone –
nice new constructions that make the sustainable product even more special.
Other developments I have seen include great new selvedge fabrics that are
recycled – 100% recycled, 40% recycled, nice heavy fabrics in authentic
constructions. What else is important is the different kinds of shades we can
develop in sustainable fabrics. If you have a dark shade and you want to make it
lighter you will have to bleach it, or do more washing on it. Now with the new
washing techniques – laser, ozone etc. – it’s better to use a good base cast, green
cast, red cast, grey cast, a black and a grey denim. From those five colors you can
make a really nice collection without using too many chemicals used to bleach it
down. I really like that development.
SCOTCH & SODA, Head Office | +31(0) 20 5141060
Keizersgracht 22. 1015CR Amsterdam
Though Scotch & Soda has been around since the 80s, the Amsterdam-based
fashion brand as we know it today originated from a brave new start in 2001, when
three new owners joined their broad experience and shared passion for making
great garments. After Scotch & Soda was re-launched for S/S 02, Scotch & Soda
has since added collections for Children and the womenswear line, Maison
Scotch. This success was soon followed by the launch of Scotch’s youngest and
most ambitious project Amsterdams Blauw; a compact high profile denim
collection.
The name Amsterdams Blauw (Amsterdam Blue) comes from the color of paint
that was used in the Golden Century between 1500-1750 to paint Dutch porcelain.
Connotations of this striking blue color are endlessly woven throughout the Men’s
and Women’s collections of specially laundered fabrics sourced exclusively from
Italy and Japan. The premium selection of denim within the line, LOT22, pays
attention to the traditional origins of denim; offering dry red-listing selvedge fabrics
as well as an assortment of artisanal wash effects and handcrafted repairs.
Known for: A commercial and modern take on heritage denim design offering a
democratic offering of fabrics, washes and fits.
Key Retailers: Blue in Green Osaka, Ships, Selfridges, Saks Fifth Ave.
Hangs With: Diesel, Replay, PRPS, Aubin & Wills
Best Sellers: Denim chino, Loose tapered crop, 14OZ dry selvedge
Price Point: € 99,95 - € 189,95 (retail)
Years in business: 11 years
Q: What was the concept behind the Amsterdam Blauw store?
A: What we wanted to establish for the neighborhood is a grocery store, like what
it used to be. Somewhere that people could escape the hectic shopping
experience and take it slow. It’s a place to drop by, relax, enjoy a good coffee,
have a chat and immerse yourself in beautiful products.
Q: Can you tell us about the location?
A. The street you see here has been the same for the past 300 years and the
space we now reside in was previously a grocery store. As you can see, the shop
front is instantly recognizable, with its striking blue facade of Amsterdams Blauw
(Amsterdam Blue), which is an ancient oil-based paint that was used in the
Golden Century between 1500-1750 to paint Dutch porcelain. Nowadays, the
color is still widely visible in Nine Streets where it’s used on house number plates
and street signs. We wanted to maintain and respect this heritage through the
store.
Like the facade, the interior of the store still holds much of its authentic character
with original exposed brick walls, antique “Dutch White” floor tiles and reclaimed
Singer sewing stools from old factories. This was mainly inspired from the interiors
of old Parisian chemists and Apotheke stores. We also wanted the store to
express the same brand philosophy as Amsterdam Blauw, balancing what we say
as “the authentic with a fresh optic.” You can see this through the juxtaposition of
old fixtures with contemporary flair to create a modern store environment. We are
a modern denim brand with a different atmosphere than what you will see in most
denim stores.
Q: How does Amsterdam influence the brand?
A: One of the most notable features of the store is the fitting rooms, which take
cues from Amsterdam’s rich history. The pods are actually repurposed bathrooms
that you can still see around Amsterdam today, while the curtains are reclaimed
sails from the Dutch ships of the 17th century. The X’s embossed throughout the
outer shell of the pod are the symbol of Amsterdam city, and are also an icon used
throughout the Amsterdam Blauw denim collection. We’re constantly inspired by our
great city Amsterdam, which allows us to be free in our approach to things.
Q: Can you tell us a little more about the mural “Denim is patient so take your
time?”
A: This is how we feel: the denim trade is so fast that sometimes that we want to
create aslow product. It takes time to understand and feel and warm up to denim.
Once you get it, this is our mantra.
TENUE DE NÎMES, Retail Store
Elandsgracht 60, 1016 TX, Amsterdam | +31 (0) 20 3204012
Haarlemmerstraat 92-94, 1013 EV, Amsterdam | +31 (0) 20 331 2778
Denim fetishists Menno van Meurs and Rene Strolenberg have shared their strong
passion for “pure blue” for more than a decade. In November 2008 their view of
modern and traditional denim became a reality when they opened their first “deniminspired boutique,” Tenue de Nîmes in Amsterdam’s Jordaan area. The store
presents the largest and most diverse range of denim in the city with brand portfolio
including Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Imogene + Willie, Tellason and Momotaro Jeans
as well as their own private label. Everything between the walls of the store through
to the brand identity is handled alongside Art-director and close friend Joachim
Baan. In Fall 2012, the duo expanded their retail adventure with a second store in
Amsterdam’s Haarlemmerstraat district. As an extension to the store on the
Elandsgracht, the new Tenue de Nîmes shop displays an extended interpretation of
modern Women's denim and style.
Menno and Rene’s love for denim extends beyond their bricks and mortar store with
their highly acclaimed blog and a quarterly published paper called Journal de
Nîmes. These “new media” efforts earned the duo the prestigious ING Retail
Jaarpris ‘Best Innovation’ retail award in 2011.
Known for: With over 2000 jeans offered, Tenue de Nîmes claims to have a pair
for everyone.
Hangs With: American Rag
Best Sellers: Tellason, Naked & Famous
Price Point: $100 - $2000
Years in business: 4 years
Q: What makes Amsterdam so key for denim?
A: There’s a lot of denim-minded people around the city, which I has helped the
scene grow – G-star, Scotch & Soda are a Dutch brands and people like Jason
Denham and Levi’s Vintage Clothing have relocated their design offices here. The
only difference between Amsterdam and all the other big cities in the world is that
here its really compact. It shows that we have a lot of denim. But to be honest in
London, there’s a Scotch & Soda, Tommy Hilfiger and premium offerings like Son of
a Stag but it’s all spread out.
Q: What inspired you to open your store in Amsterdam?
A: Out of frustration. The crazy thing is that if you look in the average man's closet
there is a max of three suits. For those three suits he got measured up, his sleeves
and buttons are adjusted – perhaps made shorter. It is completely tailored. The
average man has maybe six or seven jeans in his closet and there's no tailoring at
all. There’s nobody that provides you with the services that you need. If you think
about it, today the average pair of jeans is €150 and if you spent that amount, you
should expect a little bit of service. I've been a real fanatic about buying denim, and
when I've come in a shop and the assistants haven't advised me or shared my
passion with it then it makes me frustrated. So this is the result. We wanted to
provide denim for teenage kids through to adults 40-50 year old. We offer jeans
from €100 - €2000 so there is something for everyone. Not because its a big brand
but because that denim suits you.
Q: In your new store you have an extended Women's space. Do you feel that
women are becoming more interested in denim?
A: Menno or I could easily say that we could open a menswear-only store and it will
be a huge success, but its also a nice adventure for us to trigger the interest in
women. Its important to recognise that the market has completely changed since
we opened the Elandsgracht store four years ago and we have had to adjust and
evolve our process from the original concept. Here (Elandsgracht), we only have
eight straight meters of Women's collections and women often ask I why we don't
stock equivalents of the Men's collections. So we thought, lets do it. We understand
that women think completely different than men, so our interior and fits in the new
store will be Tenue de Nîmes but with a female flavor over it.
Q: What is inspiring you in the denim industry right now?
A: There are more things irritating me than making me feel positive about it. People
are so into "what’s the new big thing" and more people are starting to make denim
because its such a hot topic. People are making jeans for the wrong reasons. That
makes me a little bit tired. G-Star is getting back to it again, they're really grabbing
back to an old piece of history. I think that’s fantastic to see what the people are
doing there.
However, in November the Centraal Museum in Utrecht are launching “Blue Jeans,”
the first denim exhibition in the world. This will really open your eyes and it will be
fantastic. We’re friends with the organizers and we will be contributing with an open
discussion.
HOUSE OF DENIM, Campus | +31 (0) 20 5791649
ROCvA MBO College Zuid, Europaboulevard 15, 1079 PC, Amsterdam
A new adventure kicked off in the denim industry this year with the launch of the
world’s first dedicated Jeans School. This Amsterdam-based initiative provides
highly specialized insider “denim education” to a selected group of students desiring
a professional degree in denimology. Students will enroll in a three-year technical
program in denim development at the Regional Community College of Amsterdam,
where they will follow classes from professionals in the denim industry (including
Denham, G-star, K.O.I, and other Amsterdam labels) to gain the necessary skills
and connections to plug into the European denim industry.
Jeans School founders, James Veenhoff and longtime friend Mariette Hoitink,
developed the concept and curriculum together with the ROCvA and a large
number of denim industry experts. Only in its first year, the school is progressively
working towards a four-part institute:
1. Jeans School – symbolized by the crossed pencil and needle – where students
will be trained and inspired for a career in the denim industry
2. Blue Lab – an R&D and knowledge center with its own master workshop –
symbolized by a workman's apron – all geared towards solving problems relating to
water, chemicals and recycling
3. Indigo Archive – represented by the indigo plant – a museum / gallery / archive /
shop for all things related to high-quality denim
4. The Denim Union – two looped belts – a network of denim lovers and brands.
Known for: The motto “Towards a Brighter Blue” positions the school at the
crossroads of old-fashioned craftsmanship and new concepts of sustainability.
Rival Denim Courses: Amsterdam Fashion Academy – Fashion & Denim Minor
course
Years in business: 1 years
Q: What was the decision to initiate the program?
A: Amsterdam wasn't recognized as being on the map for fashion despite its
growing number of companies setting up base here. Despite the high levels of
design education available in the city, there were no courses that catered for the
growing for the domestic denim industry. Because of the specific skills and industry
insights required, lots of great people are coming in from abroad, but there are also
great jobs available for natives. In Holland the vocational or technical courses are
suffering from a crisis in confidence, with stale feelings among young kids and
lecturers. Teamed with that are growing concerns around sustainability.
Q: Who was involved with the conception of the class?
A: We started out with an expert co-creation workshop during Amsterdam Fashion
Week last year and in the Summer and Fall of 2011, a string of expert interviews
and site visits was conducted in Amsterdam and California, followed by online input
and feedback. The concept and blueprint curriculum was developed with, and by,
experts from the denim industry. In conjunction with the ROCvA board, my
consultant firm, Fronteer Strategy, Hoitink's HTNK worked alongside a large
number of denim industry experts from various professions – including Maurizio
Donadi, Jason Denham and Tony Tonnaer. Along with this, the school initiated a
pilot class of 20 2nd year design students that took a 10-week micro class of the
first year in spring 2011. The process was wrapped up in December 2011 with the
outcome of a full-time, 3-year, MBO4 “Denim Developer” course.
Q: "Sustainability" and "Heading for a brighter Blue" are major elements of
the school. Can you elaborate on this?
A: We want to make the industry dryer, cleaner and smarter so we are really going
to have to have some technological innovations. We are looking to work with
agricultural universities, chemical companies to really come up with solutions for
parts of the sustainability challenges. We have partnered with KICI (Netherlands
largest independent clothing collecting charity) who will be providing the students
with recycled denims to work with. Additionally, the school and KICI together will be
developing their own domestic selvedge fabric using recycled denim and locally
grown hemp and woad. This is the big dream for the next 3-5 year scope.
Q: What are the future plans for the school?
A: Our goal for next year is to offer the classes in English so that the students can
obtain an internationally recognised B-Tech accreditation and the talent from
abroad can have the opportunity to study in Amsterdam.
Our visions for the school are to create a professional network, an archive and a
denim lab – all under the name of House of Denim. The denim lab will be an
innovation lab and knowledge institute where all of the sustainable tests can be
catalogued along with historic pieces in archival style. In October 2012 we will
launch the launch the pop-up indigo embassy, which is a platform for industry
people to congregate in mutual ground to discuss the industry and collaborations.
We piloted this during Bread & Butter, Blue Print in Amsterdam and we will also
travel New Dehli and Istanbul.