pdf - Västervik Climbing

Björnblocke
Hörtigerum
P
fornborg
folkhögskola
fabrik
lverberget
Valstadberget
P
Garpedans
E22
VO
E22
P
E22
Verkebäck
P
Gunnebo
Gamleby
Characteristics
P
Marstrand
Björnsholm
VO is a big area that consists of boulders and walls surrounded by forest. The climbing are on granit with high quality. The landings are good for the most part. Parts of the area are close to a sports centre and are easily accessible
by road from the city. VO is divided into several sections: Sebulba, Hyllan, Dillerium, Havet, Engard and Sjöstenen.
We started to clim here in the beginning of the 90 thenth. There are several classics problem to climb.
ästervik
35
1000 m
1000 m
m
VO STENARNA
Råsklippan
VO STENARNA
Stora inf
Jenny
artsväge
n
HA
Larum
Västervik
All
én
HAVET
Allé
n
ert
Alb
S
nérs
Teg
väg
Sjöända
SEBULBA
Lucerna
P
DILLERIUM
35
S
SJÖSTENEN
SEBULBA
DILL
ENGARD
1000 m
2,5 km
Brandstation
Vassb
Ös
äcks
2,5 km
P
ter
s
N
jöv
äg
vägen
en
m
5k
Karstorps
Karstorp
P
m
5k
Dalhem
VO
Motionscenter
P
P
Överum
Karstorps
Dichmansgatan
P
Motionscenter
P
Råsklippan
200m
Vassbäck
200m
1000 m
Vassbä
c
ksvä
35
Vassbä
c
ksväge
n
Brandstation
ÖB
Kilmare
Röda väggen
P
Västervikskommun
Svarta väggen
P
1000 m
P
E22
Risebo
Flygplats
Directions
Mommehålstenen
Edsbruk
35
’Sebulba’, ’Dillerium’ and ’Sjöstenarna’ are located by the 2.5, 5, and 10 km running tracks at the Karstorp sports
Överum
Dalhem
ground which is close to the fire Sjöända
station in the centre of Västervik. When you leave the track, the trail is marked.
Björnblocket
Park at the sports groundSilverberget
or the industrial
estate at Dichmansstreet.Walk the small road to a shelter and then along
Råsklippan
the tracks for 300 m and you are coming to the first area called Sebulba. Follow the marks to hyllan and other boulders.
Mommehål
P
Lofta
135
Loftahammar
Mommehål 2
Garpedans
Odensvi
Gamleby
Dynestad
Marstrand
Falla
Fruberget
P
P
Lucerna
E22
Ös
ter
s
Blackstad
jöv
äg
en
Fallataket
Mommehål
Fallataket
40
Valstad
5 km
Västervik
2,5 km
Lucerna
VO
Hörtigerum
P
10 km
P
VO
Sebulba
1
2
3
4
1
Muvo
2
Springorna
3
Kottkrig
4
Sebulba
5
Seb
6
Namaste
7
8
5
ö
6
8 9 10
7
6B+
sds
7A+
sds
7a
7C+
sds, usig small crimpers. The jug to left is not
in.
6C+
sds, high using the crack
8A+
sds, sidepull
Pain is Temporary
7A+
high start, right hand on crimper
Ridskolan
5C
from start go left and then in the crack
9
Ridskolan rakt
5A
go straight up in the crack
10
Short Wall
5A
ö
öö
Hyllan
1
2
3
8
7
4
5
6
9
10 11
13
12
1
Dyno
5C
2
Corner
5B
3
Agnes Wall
5C
4
Fallen Angel
7B
Need to be brushed
5
Johans Arete
6B
Need to be brushed
6
Farbrorn right
6A
traversing up to the rigt
7
Nephew
6B
8
Långa Farbrorn
7A
9
Cousin
5A
Follow rope to the ledge
14
15
VO
10
Uncle
4C
11
Couscous
4B
12
Ravioli
4C
13
Penne
4C
14
Slabadish
6A
sds
15
Corporate Express
6C
sds, and up the arete
not brushed
Dillerium
1
2
3
4
5
6
10
7
8
9
1
Paranoia
2
Dillerium
3
D+P Combo
8B
sds
4
September Heat ö
7C+
sds
5
Cirkus
7C
sds, two hands on sidepull
6
Crack
6C
sds
7
Tree Block
7A
sds
8
Monster Crack
6B+
sds
9
Monster Crack Left
6B+
10
Stromstad
6A+
8A+
ö ö 8A
öö
nothwest side
sds
sds, starts with 2 hands on big sloper
sds
southwest side
VO
Havet
11
9
10
8
7
6
1
2 3
4
5
1
Go all day left
2
Go all day
3
Go all day sit
4
Saveges left
5
Saveges
ö
7A
6
Havet
ö
6A
7
Chanel
5A
sds
8
Coco
6A
sds
9
Bugg
5A
10
Just dance
6Bs
11
Salza
4C
ö
7C
sds, ends left
7A
high start, straight up
8A+
sds, straigh up
7C
sds
VO
Engard
1
2
3 4
5
6
7
1
DDR
2
Engard
3
VX1
4B
4
VX2
5A
5
Baken
6A
sds
6
Baken2
6A
sds
7
Sopp
4A
8
Plopp
6C+
9
Bränns
7A
10
Great Days
6C
sds
11
Max
7A
sds
8
9
10 11
5A
ö
6C
south side
sds
east side
VO
Sjöstenen
11
1
2 3
4
5
6
8 9
7
1
Lindermans
7B
2
Kanel
7C
3
Draget
6C
4
Hopp
6A
5
Tecno Trip
6A+
6
Life is Peachy
öö
7A+
7
Spooky
ö
7C
sds, climb left
8
Life is Peachy sit öö
7C
sds
9
Sida vid Sida
6A
sds
10
Corner
5A
11
Butt
7B+
10
sds
sds
sds, in the corner and up on the arete