BRILLIANCE ON THE BAY

Brilliance
on the Bay
See vibrant fall color and dramatic coves along
Canada’s stunningly wild Bay of Fundy
A drive along the Bay of
Fundy yields views of
towering gold maple trees
and robust red spruce.
Writer Jacquelyne Froeber
Photographer Squire Fox
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Take a deep breath. The crisp scent
of fall laces the ocean breezes here
along the coast of New Brunswick.
Brilliant crimson, gold, and
warm tawny hues enliven the
170 miles of diverse vegetation
hugging the shore. At every
turn, visitors are impressed by
views of sparkling blue water
and unique sea life. The photo
ops are countless.
By car, the (mostly) relaxed
two-lane road along the bay
winds through rolling hills, small
villages, quaint shoreside towns,
and past the highest tides in
the world. Hop in: We found
the best scenic spots with
dramatic clifftop views, beachy
adventures, and—of course—
plenty of fall color.
Alma
Hopewell Rocks
Want to walk on the ocean floor?
Three hours before and after
low tide, you can explore cliffs,
coves, valleys, and caves that
are otherwise obscured by water.
Best view: Stop at the lookout
past Lovers Arch to see Flower
Pot Rocks (sandstone formations
exposed during low tide).
Look for: The highest tides
in the world, known to reach
more than 46 feet.
Get on the water: Take a
guided sea kayak tour with an
instructor from the onsite
Baymount Outdoor Adventures;
baymountadventures.com.
Don’t miss: Demoiselle
Beach, to see red fox, moose,
deer, and porcupines.
Stay: Innisfree Bed & Breakfast
is a restored 160-year-old
farmhouse. Rates start at $120;
innisfreebandb.com.
Fundy National
Park & Alma
Low tide in
St. Martins
An easy two-lane road
leads you into the
park, where a mix of
red spruce, balsam
fir, yellow birch, white
birch, and maple
trees swirls in your
peripheral vision.
Best viewing
spot: Point Wolfe.
Drive through the
red covered bridge
and pull into the
gravel parking lot on
the right. Once the
site of a thriving
logging village, the
Point Wolfe River
still sparkles beneath towering
golden maples as it flows
serenely out to the bay.
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Look for: Moose! One
minute you’re in the car singing
along with Shania Twain—
the next minute there’s a
moose crossing. Abide by
the speed limit and keep
your eyes peeled.
Don’t miss: The Herring
Cove Beach trail. This is a
quiet spot to beachcomb
for shells, bring a blanket/
picnic gear for a snack, and
do some cave exploring.
Get on the water: In the
nearby town of Alma, Fresh
Air Adventure instructors
help you paddle along the
National Park coastline. Rates
for a three-hour tour start at
$60; freshairadventure.com.
Hungry? The Tides
Restaurant in Alma is a local
favorite serving fresh seafood.
Best bet: The blueberry salad
with fresh scallops.
Stay: In the park, the
recently renovated Fundy
Highlands Inn & Chalets and
Fundy Park Motel overlook
the bay. Rates start at $79
for a chalet and $69 at the
motel; fundyhighlandchalets
.com or fundyparkmotel.ca.
The Tides
Restaurant in Alma
The Treadwell
Inn in St.
Andrews-bythe-Sea
Exploring the
ocean floor at
low tide
Blueberry salad
with scallops at The
Tides Restaurant
Fresh lobster
for sale in Alma
Point Wolfe, Fundy
National Park
Fundy Trail
Parkway,
St. Martins
Moose
crossing!
The Fundy Trail is the last
remaining coastal wilderness
area on the East Coast of North
America. More than 12
designated lookouts along the
parkway showcase the best
views of the Bay of Fundy from
as high as 820 feet. Exciting
news: The Fundy Trail is in the
St. Martins
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Get here: Fly into and out of
New Brunswick’s Greater Moncton
International Airport (GMIA).
Rent a compact car or whatever
you’re comfortable with—you
won’t need anything special to
navigate the roads. Or, fly to Saint
John, New Brunswick (YSJ); the
area is midpoint on our list of
great places to see. For more
information about New Brunswick,
call the tourism department at
800/561-0123 or visit tourism
newbrunswick.ca.
hopewell rocks:
Start your journey here, at the
home of the highest tides in the
world, one hour from Moncton
International; 877/734-3429 or
thehopewellrocks.ca.
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fundy national park
& alma: Immerse yourself in
fall foliage at Fundy National Park;
888/773-8888 or pc.gc.ca.
st. martins: Hike, bike,
walk, or drive the Fundy Trail
Parkway for four-story water
views and exploring the ocean
floor (at low tide); 866/386-3987
or fundytrailparkway.com.
st. andrews-by-the-sea:
This quaint seaside town is
the spot for shopping, whalewatching, and modest nightlife;
506/529-5120 or townofst
andrews.ca. At low tide, drive
your car on the ocean floor; at
high tide, take a ferry ride to
Ministers Island; 877/386-3922
or ministersisland.ca.
grand manan island:
Take the 90-minute Grand Manan
Ferry Service from Blacks Harbour.
Rates start at $10.90 per adult;
cars, $32.55; 506/642-0520
or coastaltransport.ca. Spend
the day on Grand Manan
exploring lighthouses, beaches
and trails, salt marshes,
and harbors; 888/525-1655
or grandmanannb.com.
What to pack:
■ Layers! Because you’ll be
traveling in the car to outdoor
activities by the shore, wear
breathable layers you can shed
as you warm up, plus bring a
coat to wear at night.
■ Walking shoes/hiking
boots for navigating trails and
walking on pebble beaches.
■ Snacks: You may find yourself
in the wilderness and far
from a restaurant. Pack portable
protein such as almonds or
individually wrapped wholegrain crackers for a boost.
Bottled water is also a must
during physical activities.
■ A watch: Your day may be
dictated by water, so check
the tide clocks that are posted
almost everywhere you go.
■ Binoculars: Great for spying
migrating whales, shorebirds,
moose, eagles and osprey, and
other wildlife rarities.
illustration: mat t caserta
Go Guide: Bay of Fundy
sailor caps in
Boutique La Baleine,
crocheted scarves
in Cottage Craft,
homemade fudge in
Scrooge & Marley’s,
and local paintings at
Jarea Art Studio.
Best view:
Sweet Harvest
Market in
St. Andrewsby-the-Sea
Grand Manan
Island
process of extending the paved
coastal route for cars.
Best view: Big Salmon River
Lookout. Explore the pebbled
ocean floor at low tide or watch
for birds in the red maples.
Look for: Woodpeckers,
Grand Harle ducks, white-tailed
deer, and black bears.
Don’t miss: Fuller Falls. A
funky set of suspension steps
leads to the closest view;
proceed with caution (and as
much grace as you can muster).
Hungry? Stop at Cave View,
where they serve world-famous
creamy seafood chowder.
Stay: The St. Martins Country
Inn has ocean views and an
upscale, onsite restaurant.
Rates start at $95; stmartins
countryinn.com.
St. Andrewsby-the-Sea
This quaint seaside town erupts
in a fall kaleidoscope of red,
silver, and gold. Follow the treelined roads to the harbor on
Water Street and shop for Greek
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Ministers Island. A
five-minute drive
across the ocean floor
(during low tide!)
from downtown will
get you to this
500-acre island, once home to
Sir William Van Horne, president
of the Canadian Pacific Railroad.
Check out Van Horne’s historic
estate, Covenhoven, and visit the
towering shoreside bathhouse
constructed with local stone.
Look for: Inside Covenhoven,
priceless art hangs on the walls.
Don’t miss a photo op in front of
the Van Horne Dutch windmill.
Get in the water: Just before
the pier downtown on King
Street, grab a local Red Whale
coffee at the Hungry Whale Café,
then duck into the buoy-covered
staircase of the Fundy Tide
Runners next door. Sign up for a
two-hour whale-watching tour
that may include views of minke,
finback, and humpback whales,
plus eagles and osprey. Rates start
at $55; fundytiderunners.com.
Hungry? For lunch, take a seat
outdoors on Water Street at
the Sweet Harvest Market and
enjoy homemade quiche served
with a spring salad. For dinner,
perfectly breaded fish-and-chips
on the patio of The Gables
Restaurant includes relaxing
views of the sea.
Don’t miss: After-dinner
drinks at the Red Herring Pub
& Eatery. Take a seat outside for
views, local gossip, and
umbrella-covered tables. Inside,
enjoy the Canadian accents of
bartenders Daisy and Keith, and
live music on the weekends.
Stay: The Treadwell Inn was
built in 1820, but has updated
amenities and is within walking
distance of Water Street
attractions. Rates start at $99;
townsearch.com/treadwell. A
few blocks up from Water Street,
the historic Fairmont Algonquin’s
comfy beds will lull you to sleep
in seconds. Rates start at $159;
fairmont.com/algonquin.
Grand Manan
Island
A 90-minute ferry ride from
Blacks Harbour takes you to the
secluded Grand Manan Island,
known for its rugged coastline,
lighthouses, and abundant nature
trails. To navigate the island at
your own pace, board the ferry
with your car. (Note: Be in line an
hour early to secure your spot
on the 65-car ferry.) Once
onshore, it’s almost impossible
to get lost—there’s basically one
route from north to south.
Best view: Long Eddy Point,
on the very northern tip of
the island. You’ll feel on top
of the world standing on a
simple wooden platform—sans
railing—overlooking the bay
and a red-and-white lighthouse.
Look for: The last whales
of the season migrating past
Long Eddy.
Get in the water: Sea kayak
with Adventure High’s sealwatching tour; watch for eagles
and osprey, too. Rates start
around $75; adventurehigh.com.
Don’t miss: Swallowtail
Lightstation. Cross the wooden
bridge (some 100 feet in the air),
and enjoy views of clifftop foliage
and shorebirds soaring over the
water as far as the eye can see.
Hungry? For a sweet snack,
stop in at the North Head Bakery
for warm, sugary doughnuts
baked that morning. For dinner,
an island favorite is the lobster,
baked potato, corn, coleslaw, and
roll from The Shorecrest Lodge.
Stay: An easy half-mile drive up
Whistler Road takes you on a
dirt path to the Inn at Whale
Cove Cottages, built in 1816. The
inn has three bedrooms with
private baths. Rates start at $120;
whalecovecottages.ca.
Sardine Museum
on Grand
Manan Island
A mariner on
Grand Manan
Island
Lobster dinner
at The Shorecrest
Lodge on Grand
Manan Island
A curious
local
Swallowtail
Lightstation on
Grand Manan
Island
Grand Manan
Island
St. Martins
St. Andrews-bythe-Sea
Discover 5 more classic fall breaks at coastalliving.com
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