on the cover - Destino Argentina

ISSN 2052-0603
RAYS YOUR GLASSES
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FLIGHTS OF FANCY
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T IS FOR TEQUILA
A guide to Mexico’s finest export
FRESH THINKING
For modern drinking
ON THE
COVER:
Soaking up the sun at the Gilbert Scott
IN-ternational
Bueno
Buenos
Aires
Drinking in the wealth of great
bars in Argentina’s capital
52 - The Cocktail Lovers
IN-ternational
There’s so much more to Buenos Aires than Malbec and
premium-grade steak. And we don’t just mean tango and
polo. Argentina’s capital has a few tricks up its sleeve on the
cocktail front and, not wishing to diss the average drinker
around these parts, Fernet Branca and Coke, or Pineral and
soda doesn’t come into the equation.
You do need to know where to look to find the good stuff.
And luckily for us we had the A-team on board – Martin
Auzmendi and Rodolfo Reich, two highly respected drinks
writers who know what’s what on the BA bar scene. Even
though we were in town on the two least busy days –
Sunday and Monday – they still managed to show us a good
time, guiding us to their pick of the spots that would do the
legendary Argentine barman Santiago ‘Pichin’ Policastro
extraordinarily proud.
THE COCKTAIL LOVERS’ HOT LIST
878 Bar, Thames 878, CP 1414. www.878bar.com.ar
When it first came on the scene nine years ago Julián
Diáz’s Ocho7Ocho (to give it it’s official name), was more
of a speakeasy-style joint only available for members or
special guests. Now the former furniture-makers store is
open to all. Jolly good job too – the bare-brick, informal
setting is one of the most popular bars in town. And the
fact that fellow bartenders hang out here speaks volumes
about the calibre of the place. “When it opened it changed
the way to drink in Buenos Aires,” says Auzmendi. “And
it’s influenced everything since.” Including the Floreria
Atlantico (see below) in which Diaz has a stake.
Whisky is big business here, as is bottle service, seasonal
cocktails and authentic rustic local food including tongue,
pickles and raccoon which can be eaten tapas-style at the
bar or enjoyed in the courtyard restaurant. We loved
the Cynar Julep (Cynar, mint, grapefruit, sugar syrup,
lemon), a very nice twist on a classic Argentinian cocktail.
BASA Basement Bar & Restaurant, Basavilbaso 1328,
entre Av. del Libertador y Juncal. www.basabar.com.ar
In contrast to all of the other places we visited this
basement bar and restaurant is a huge, industrial,
streamlined space – very urban chic. It’s the latest venture
from the team behind Gran Bar Danzon (see over), and
their experience on the Argentine bar front definitely
shows. Head bartender Ludovico De Biaggi is no stranger
to the scene himself, having won the prestigious Bacardi
Legacy cocktail challenge in Buenos Aires last year.
His menu of 26 cocktails features homemade syrups,
macerations and infusions included in drinks such as the
Sherry Fix (Malbec sherry, oranges, clavo and almibar –
a spicy syrup). The Rotten Apple Punch (Cynar, Martini
Rosso, grapefruit cordial, cider, basil and cinnamon) and
the Elegante Cocktail (Tanqueray gin, orange bitters,
Cynar, sherry and port wine) hit the spot very nicely.
Florería Atlantico, Arroyo 872, Retiro.
www.floreriaatlantico.com.ar
The newest of our selection and our personal favourite.
Why? For starters, you have to enter the bar/restaurant
through a very swanky florist and wine shop, perfect if
you’ve stayed out too late and need a ‘sorry I’ve stayed out
too late’ gift to appease your loved one. Climb down the
stairs and you’re in a long, narrow, no-frills space, one
side taken up by the vintage barbecue – the only basement
grill in BA. “It was installed to make snacks to have with
drinks, but the response has been so good it’s become a
full restaurant,” says Martin. The rest of the room features
no-frills tables and chairs. While the food is indeed tiptop, the cocktail menu is awesome. It’s themed like a
port and inspired by the melting pot of immigrants who
flocked to Argentina in the 19th-century. Therefore the
menu is divided by country taking in gin and genever
from Holland, pisco from Peru, beer from Germany,
bitter aperitivo style drinks from Italy, classics from the
UK and champagne from France. The drinks devised by
one of the biggest names around these parts Renato ‘Tato’
Giovanni are exceptionally good. Highlights include a
Martini made with seawater and the own-label Postoles
Mate gin with Yerba Mate, eucalyptus, peppermint and
pink grapefruit.
Gran Bar Danzon, Libertad 1161, Capital Federal.
www.granbardnazon.com.ar
With its bare breeze block walls and dim lighting, Grand
Bar Danzon could never be described as fancy but it sure
is lots of fun. It’s trendy in a lowkey, clubby way – think
relaxed moody elegance with a pumping soundtrack
and you’ve got the right idea. As one of the first ‘proper’
mixology bars in the country (it opened in 1999), it’s
been home to many of the top Argentinian bartenders.
These days Ciro Tarquini runs the show, serving up a
fine selection of wines and an array of cool cocktails
including the Afro Manhattan (Jim Beam, Martini Rosso
infused with rooibos, Cointreau and Angostura aromatic
bitters) and his own creation, the Tomo Arigato, a fresh
crisp concoction served in a sake bottle. Enjoy dinner in
the restaurant area to the rear, move to the bar for drinks
and dancing then when it’s time for a rest – this place
stays open til 3am most nights, 4am at the weekend,
retreat to the soft seating area featuring films on loop.
The Cocktail Lovers - 53
IN-ternational
Pony Line, Four Seasons Hotel, Posadas 1086/88.
www.fourseasons.com/buenosaires
It makes sense that a country renowned for polo should
big-up the majestic sport. But in the case of a themed
bar it could have easily teetered over to the comedy end
of the spectrum. Not so Pony Line. Sure you’ve got the
giant horse sculptures outside and yes, there’s more
bridle leather and reins inside than you can shake a whip
at (squint a little and it could be a bit S&M), yet thanks
to $40million investment, this sleek, very grown-up bar
by Four Seasons hotels retains an aura of sophistication
and authenticity. The cocktails are pretty cool too. Flick
through Sebastián Maggi’s menu and zone in on the
Foundations, the section devoted to cocktails using local
herbs and ingredients. The Tererés are worthy of a special
mention: inspired by and served with a small jug to top
up your drink in the manner of the maté tea ritual. Try
the Tereré Backhanger (green tea, lemon grass, citrus
vodka and lemonade). We also liked the Des-Coya on the
Cocktails Interventions section (vodka, Críos Torontés,
St. Germain, Gold Pisco, Mosto green vines and olives
wrapped in basil leaves).
DRINK LIKE A LOCAL
To be honest, you wouldn’t want to drink like the majority
of locals: they’re happy with Fernet Branca and Coke. For
drinking like discerning locals, we suggest seeking out
twisted classics such as the Cynar Julep on the menu at
878 and the signatures at Florería Atlantico.
Shop like a local:
Pick up antique glassware and cocktail gear from the
always-busy Sunday market at Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo.
SPEAK LIKE A LOCAL
Gen up on your Spanish:
Can I have the cocktail menu please? – Puedo tener el
menú de cócteles por favor.
Thank you – gracias.
How much? – Cuánto?
THE ESSENTIALS
Tip: Remember if you change your money into the local
currency Argentinian pesos you won’t be able to change
them back outside the country.
FLY
We flew with AirEuropa, travelling from London Gatwick
to Buenos Aires via Madrid, starting from £682 (inc
tax). Flight time approx 10 hours plus connection time.
For bookings and details, contact www.aireuropa.com,
UK reservations: 44 (0) 207 384 7149/7150; call centre
0871 423 0717.
SLEEP
Alvear Art Hotel, Suipacha
www.alveararthotel.com.
1036,
C1008AAV.
We stayed at the recently opened, very chic Alvear Art
Hotel located slap-bang in the middle of the financial
district. Unlike its older classical sister in the chi-chi
Recoleta neighbourhood, this is every inch the swanky
modern sibling. Each room is equipped with jacuzzi and
shower box, Nespresso coffee machines, broadband and
Wi-Fi plus crisp-as-you-like Egyptian cotton bedlinen.
You’re also advised to make full use of the fabulous heated
pool and wellness area. Rooms from $225 USD
54 - The Cocktail Lovers
EAT
There’s no shortage of good places to eat in Buenos Aires –
trust us, we chomped our way through most of them. If your
visit takes in a Sunday afternoon, we highly recommend
pushing the boat out and going for the all-inclusive, allyou-can-eat Sunday brunch at the sumptuous Alvear
Palace Hotel (Avenida Alvear 1891, C1129AAA, www.
alvearpalace.com). Seriously, you could survive all week
on the delicacies on offer here ranging from caviar and
fresh-off-the-griddle blinis to a full-on, big boy roast of the
day – there’s even a diabetic and celiac dessert selection…
For fancy dinners and tasteful interpretations of modern
Buenos Aires cuisine, try Tomo 1 restaurant (Carlos
Pellegrini 521, Centro 1009, www.tomo1.com.ar); slices of
mouthwatering pizza to eat as you stand, Pizzeria Guerrin
(Avda Corrientes 1368) rivals the Italian varieties.
Go for the faina, the thin chickpea coating which sits
proudly on the thick base and rich, cheesy topping.
Street food fans will love the choripan trailers at Costanera
Sur. Queue up and take your pick from the slabs of freshly
grilled meats piled high into bread rolls, ready for a dollop
of chimichurri and salad on the side. Be sure to visit
Panaderia La Pompeya (Av Independencia 1912, entrance
Combate de los Pozos, Buenos Aires), a deliciously quaint,
artisan Italian bakery where you can pick up an array of
freshly baked delights, all made by hand on the premises.
Lastly, for ice cream to make you have an uncontrollable
Meg Ryan moment, check out Heladeria Jauja (Av Federico
Lacroze 2239, Buenos Aires) with its 60 handmade gelatos
– nothing else comes even close.
The Cocktail Lovers - 55