Fragrance du Bois: All Shades of Oud ~ Niche Perfumery

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Fragrance du Bois: All Shades of Oud
08/04/15 16:25:23 (2 comments)
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by: Serguey Borisov
We continue the interview with Global Business Development Director
of Du Bois Group, Gary Crates, with an overview of the Fragrance du Bois fragrance
collection. A set of samples hides in a box covered with crocodile-patterned black
patent eco-leather. Looks awesome, but excessively posh. Samples of the Shades Du
Bois collection differ by the color of logo depicted on them, with no names. Together
they form a rainbow of seven oud perfumes, from red to violet, plus one special
perfume, Oud Black Intense. For the most part the perfumes that represent the colors
are pretty close to my ideas of synesthetic harmonies, and the pure and organic oud oil
is not showing off particularly in the compositions. Those who like their oud to be hard
and cruel should not necessarily try all the Shades perfumes—I'd advise them to go
right to the oud-centric collection Privé Du Bois.
A useful warning applies to the Du Bois perfumes: natural oud oil can stain your
clothing, especially light colors, so the perfumes should be sprayed always directly to
the skin or hair.
Oud Rouge Intense
Sharp earthy freshness from the first seconds. If there is something red, it should be
something like the red clay ultisol of India or African laterite, absorbing the first drops of
tropical rain. Just some tree broken by a violent storm, an old cedar pepperbox, or a
courageous and handsome lover from France ... Patchouli and spiced earthy notes are
gradually replaced by coniferous resin and dry wood, becoming soft and calm. There
are some nudges from Lorenzo VIlloresi Piper Nigrum and Frederic Malle French
Lover to be smelled in it. The perfume goes to the red part of the spectrum in its
decline, when the oud becomes a dark line horizon, and sandalwood and a sweet
accord illuminate its dark line. A solid fougère fragrance for men, somewhat too
masculine for women.
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We've seen this woman somewhere. She swept through our lives as a dazzling bright
pink and purple flash. She has enough curves and bumps, as well as a natural instinct
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like her too much. Sometimes she comes to our minds, and we think, where is she
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people up. Or she could open her own Coyote Ugly-type bar for investors' money to
wink at visitors legally. A feminine oriental, exciting and flowing, with a small and dirty
oudy shade. Not the most popular version of geranium and amber oud, not a chypre
and not a patchouli. The oud is far in the background, like a summer lightning of
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Oud Rose Intense
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Top notes: Bergamot, Fruit notes;
Heart notes: Rose, Geranium, Sandalwood, Amber;
Base notes: Oud.
Oud Orange Intense
Give me more bliss, more girliness, more gourmand and more feelings of a beloved
father's daughter. Vanilla on Vanilla, with Coconut Caramel, and Vanilla again. If
something can be a demonstration of the fact that a cozy and nice tanning lotion can
overcome and defeat The Powerful Oud then here's an example of this, in full bloom,
natural size. For any strong perfume material (Oud) there can be found an even
stronger note (ethyl maltol, coconut lactone), and quantity always beats quality in the
perfume wars. And it has been done in the perfume—to the delight of those who are
ready for the beach in five minutes at any time of the year, or who want to remind
themselves of the existence of the beach, sun and sea all year round. And of course, I
cannot reject the fact that some girls could just love the pleasant sweetness of vanilla
and coconut. The orange color of the perfume reminds me of the carrot-colored skin of
a pale person who has spent a month or two under the Thailand or Goan sun,
alternating sea and sun baths with soaking their bodies in coconut oil.
Oud Orange Intense
Top notes: Coconut, Fruit notes;
Heart notes: Bourbon Vanilla;
Base notes: Oud, Musk, Vanilla.
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Oud Jaune Intense
Crazy subtropic Saturnalia. Hot disco bars full of sultry passion at the all-inclusive
hotel. The crazy fun of Ibiza, Saint-Tropez, and Miami clubs with the best DJs in the
world. Beautiful girls and handsome guys are moving. No sweat at all— all divine
fragrances smell sweet. It is absolutely unclear where the oud hides in this space
stuffed with wreaths of exotic flowers, full of fruity cocktails and milkshakes, smelling of
estrogen and vanilla. Just forget about oud's presence and enjoy the freedom to move
in rhythm with a huge crowd of floral gourmand perfume admirers.
Oud Jaune Intense
Top notes: Ylang-ylang, Pineapple, Fruit notes, Monoi;
Heart notes: Jasmine, Fleur d'Orange, Salicilates;
Base notes: Oud, Lactones, Vanilla, Musk.
Oud Vert Intense
A bright and handsome summer cologne, more spicy, aromatic and intense than your
normal cologne. It is understandable—the fougère structure made it stronger and more
fit. What is oud oil doing in this green ginger cologne with a woody base? Oud gives
the woody drydown of this energetic shower-gel-like fougère the virile and rough effect
of dirty and worn-out jeans—so you will find your first school love on Facebook some
years after graduation, and cannot believe how his or her delicate image could have
changed so dramatically.
Oud Vert Intense
Top notes: Bergamot, Ginger, Cardamom;
Heart notes: Coriander, Nutmeg, Geranium;
Base notes: Oud, Vetiver, Cedarwood, Musk.
Oud Bleu Intense
The Mediterranean breeze freshness, with sweet tangerines' predominance on a
transparent camphoraceous incense, opens the fragrance. I have seen some
Mediterranean miracles like that. They were named after the refreshing sea winds and
some Italian island of vacations and dolce vita. But those miracles were secondary—
the very first original was named Cartier Declaration, the most popular office colleague
of the last years of the last Millennium. But here, surprisingly, with all these easy,
breezy and transparent winds and barely audible balsamic resins the oud oil can be
also applied, with a beautiful and absolutely invisible (by Middle Eastern standards)
result.
Oud Bleu Intense
Top notes: Nutmeg, Cardamom, Mandarin;
Heart notes: Frankincense, Myrrh, Amber;
Base notes: Oud, Opopanax, Styrax, Benjoin.
Oud Violet Intense
Nice and tasty tangerine ice cream of the gourmand start is followed by a distinctly dry
smell of steak peppered by shaking hands with all spices. Meat is a phantom, and the
spices are just gaining momentum in the incense-amber-gourmand background. All the
perfume is about food: spices, gingerbread, cakes, milk, chocolate, a lot of tonka
beans, peppercorns, and so on. Oud serves here as the dark brown cutting board on
which all these delicious foods are posing.
Oud Violet Intense
Top notes: Mandarin, Black Pepper, Elemi;
Heart notes: Frankincense, Tonka beans, Nutmeg;
Base notes: Oud, Cistus, Musk, Amber.
Oud Noir Intense
A camphoraceous part, created by resinous cardamom and dark patchouli, dominates
at the beginning. Could this imposing handsome man be a forester? The slightly spicy
metal of saffron sounds in his milky sandalwood voice. Wait, did the handsome forester
arrive from India? When the familiar theme of oud, supported by rockrose, starts to
unfold in the oriental attar of amber, rose and sandalwood, it becomes absolutely clear
that the forester came out of the desert of United Arab Emirates.
Oud Noir Intense
Top notes: Bergamot, Cardamom;
Heart notes: Rose, Jasmine;
Base notes: Sandalwood, Saffron, Patchouli, Vanilla, Musk, Amber, Oud.
Serguey Borisov
Serguey Borisov has been known
in the Internet world of perfume
under the nickname moon_fish for
more than 10 years. Now he writes
about perfumes for GQ.ru and
Vogue.ru, and contributes on the
subject for glossy magazines.
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zakkarah
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Niche Perfumery
My thoughts exactly!! Just love the full bodied lady in red....:-)
Cheers
matz in Stockholm
kinetisphere
I'm sorry this is off subject.
But! It's nice to see beautiful ladies of all shapes and sizes as the
models.
Great article. I think i like the notes of oud juane and oud vert's the
best. ^_^
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