puppy notebook - Animal Wellness Center of Maple Grove

Transcription

PUPPY NOTEBOOK
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Bill of Rights/Responsibilities
Local Dog Parks
What to do in an Emergency
Introducing Pet Portals
Behavior & Grooming
Your Puppy’s First Visit
Puppy Training Tips
Vaccines & Diseases
Animal Wellness Center
Training Classes
Puppy Wellness Checklist
Puppy Vaccination
Overview
Bordetella Vaccination
Lyme Disease
Surgery & Dental Care
What you Need to Know
Before your Pet’s Surgery
Spaying / Neutering Your Pet
Leptosporosis
Home Dental Care
Wellness Testing/Annual
Health Profile
Miscellaneous
Zoonotic Diseases
Microchip
Parasite, Flea, Tick &
Heartworm Prevention
Internal Parasite Control
Fleas and Ticks
Canine Heartworm Disease
Diet & Exercise
How to Choose a Pet Food
Exercise and Your Puppy
Things we can Learn from a
Dog
Home Checklist for Pet
Health
Allergies to Your Pet
Traveling with Your Pet
Help Your Pet be Cool in
Summer
Winter Safety
What’s Next?
How to Choose a Chew Toy
Animal Wellness Center of Maple Grove – 763-420-7958
Updated 01/25/10
BILL OF RIGHTS
Client Bill Of Rights
Patient Bill Of Rights
We believe you are always entitled to:
We believe your pet is always entitled to:
Leading edge veterinary care for your pet
provided by a hospital dedicated to the
constant pursuit of knowledge and skill.
Be treated gently, kindly and with compassion
Have your pet’s medical condition clearly
explained to you, to be provided with options
for treatment including their benefits and risks
and to receive additional educational
material as you desire.
Receive the highest quality of medical,
surgical, and dental care.
The right to know the cost of services
provided, and to receive value for your
investment in your pet’s health care.
Be pain free, warm and comfortable.
Respect for your time, feelings, preferences
and wishes as you care for your pet.
Receive medical care in such a way as to
earn your trust and dispel your fears.
Friendly, helpful, courteous service.
Our promise to be your advocate to help your
owner give you the long and happy life they
wish for you.
ANIMALS ENRICH OUR LIVES
People who have the privilege of sharing their lives with pets live longer, happier and fuller lives.
Our pets remind us of what it is to be carefree, gentle, loyal and trustworthy. They show us the
meaning of life and rely on us for medical, physical and mental care. For all that they offer to us,
they deserve the best that we can give in return.
WHY LIFETIME VETERINARY CARE MATTERS
The POTENTIAL lifespan of the average dog or cat in the United States is 15 years.
Comprehensive medical care, good nutrition and proper training allow pets to live up to their
potential as long term family members. The care you give your pet throughout its life will
determine how long he or she will remain a happy, healthy member of your family. Our goal is
to maximize the lifespan and the health of your dog or cat through preventative medical care
and nutritional and behavioral counseling. We are advocates for your pet - our job is to advise
you as to the best options available for you and your pet.
Working together as a team we hope to add years to the life of your pet so they
can add life to your years!
Updated 01/25/10
Staff Member
Responsibilities
Client Responsibilities
We believe every client is obligated
to:
We believe every staff member is
obligated to:
Have only as many pets as you have
the means to care for
Treat clients and other staff members with
courtesy and respect
Learn what your pet needs in order to
be healthy and cared for
Work diligently for the betterment of
themselves and the practice
Invest an appropriate amount of time
and effort into training and socializing
your pet, so it can be a well-behaved
and an enjoyable member of the
household
Treat every patient kindly and gently
Treat staff members of the hospital
with courtesy and respect
Honestly communicate to our staff
what level of care you want for your
pet
Provide the pet with at least this
minimum standard of care adequate shelter, food and water
Do everything within their power to
maintain the health and happiness of our
patients
Do everything in their power to improve
the health of the practice
Do everything in their power to make
each visit as positive an experience as
possible
Maintain and improve their skills
Regular examinations and
vaccinations to prevent diseases for
which the pet is at risk
Parasite prevention and control
Spaying and neutering, to prevent
health problems and pet
overpopulation, unless the pet is to be
shown or bred in a responsible
manner
Health care sufficient to prevent pain
and suffering including treatment of
medical disease, dental disease and
injury
Gentle, kind and humane training
and treatment
To have pain or suffering relieved by
gentle euthanasia when necessary
Updated 01/25/10
WHAT TO DO IN AN EMERGENCY
Please do not hesitate to call with your questions or concerns. We would rather you
call and get peace of mind than have your pet suffer needlessly. If our office is not
open, please call the Affiliated Emergency Veterinary Service (763) 529-6560. Please
do not give any medications to your pet without checking with us first. Many human
drugs are toxic to pets or are dosed very differently for animals. For instance, Tylenol
and Advil are toxic to dogs and cats, and even a small amount of aspirin can be
fatal for your cat.
Signs of an emergency
• Persistent (24hr duration) vomiting or diarrhea
• Pale gums or tongue
• Rapid, shallow, or labored breathing
• Straining or inability to urinate
• Abnormal or bloody nasal discharge
• Sudden / non-weight bearing lameness
• Seizure lasting longer than 5 minutes
• Prolonged or non-progressive labor
• Suspected poisoning
• Bleeding wounds
• Eye injury or irritation
• Burns
• Sudden changes in behavior / awareness
Basic Rescue Checklist / Initial Assessment of Injured Pet
If the pet is lying in the road, be sure the area is clear and traffic is stopped. You should
muzzle an injured animal. Dogs may bite when excited, scared or in pain. If you don't have
a muzzle, cover the animal with a blanket or wrap a rope, necktie or belt around the bony
part of the animal's mouth and nose 2-3 times, so that it doesn't interfere with breathing. If
the animal begins to retch or vomit, remove the muzzle immediately. Move the pet gently
to prevent further injury. Slide animals that may have sustained a head, neck or spinal injury
onto a flat, firm surface such as an ironing board, collapsed cardboard box, or plywood.
Slide the animal slowly by pulling by the loose skin on the back of the neck and back. Lay
the pet on its side and gently tie or tape to the support.
Updated 01/25/10
Transporting Injured / Sick Pets
When you're ready to transport your pet, encourage them to lie quietly on their side.
Cover your pet with a blanket. This will help your pet to hold still and prevent heat loss. Do
not put pressure on the abdomen. Keep the head and neck in normal position as much as
possible. Please call before transporting your pet so that we can be prepared to assist you
when you arrive.
First Aid for Your Pet
First Aid is only a temporary measure until you
have time to get to the vet.
Here are some tips:
Bleeding – wrap a towel around the wound and
apply pressure
Vomiting / Diarrhea – withhold food, offer small
amounts of water
Fever – Take your pet’s temperature with a
lubricated (with Vaseline) rectal thermometer. A
pet’s normal temperature is 100-102.5°F
Emergency Phone Numbers:
Animal Wellness Center: 763-420-7958
Animal Emergency Veterinary Services:
Golden Valley: 763-529-6560
Coon Rapids: 763-754-9434
Eden Prairie (open 24 hours): 952-942-8272
Rochester: 507-424-3976
St. Cloud: 320-258-3481
Midwest Veterinary Specialty Group (Blaine): 763-754-5000
Animal Poison Control Center: 888-426-4435 (charges may apply)
University of Minnesota Main Line: 612-626-8387
University of Minnesota After Hours: 612-625-9711
Updated 01/25/10
INTRODUCING PET PORTALS!
Pet Portals are private websites that give you secure online access to your pet’s
health information. You can use your Pet Portal to conveniently manage your
pet’s health information online at any time night or day. We provide Pet Portals
free of charge to all clients who have an active email address in our computer
system. Use your Pet Portal to:
Remind yourself with an email when to give heartworm or flea preventative.
Receive your pet’s service reminders by email.
Request prescription refills and order veterinary prescribed food.
Request an appointment or boarding reservation.
Print out your pet’s vaccination record.
Use PetNotes to easily print out pet health care instructions for pet-sitters
when you are out of town.
Ask us questions or communicate your concerns via Pet Mail – an easy-touse messaging system available only from your Pet Portal. Our staff monitors
Pet Mail each day that we’re open for business and will make sure that your
questions are answered promptly.
How can I get a Pet Portal?
Visit our website at www.animalwellnessmg.com and click the Pet Portal login
button. Just follow the instructions under the “Want a Pet Portal” header. You
can also provide your email address to one of our staff the next time you’re at
the clinic or when you give us a call. Once you’ve signed up, you’ll receive a
password by email.
How do I access my Pet Portal?
Visit our website and click on the Pet Portal icon. Enter your email address and
password in the Pet Portal login box. You can bookmark the login page but, not
your Pet Portal since it is a secure site.
What do you do with my email address?
Your email address is used as your Pet Portal sign-in name. We use email to
contact our clients about important hospital and animal health news. Your
information will not be sold or shared with anyone.
Updated 01/25/10
YOUR PUPPY’S FIRST VISIT
The way your puppy perceives his or her first visit to the veterinary hospital will
greatly influence the way the puppy will respond here for the rest of its life.
Puppies are sensitive to emotional cues from their owners. How you react to new
situations tells the puppy how to react as well.
Therefore, you can interpret for the puppy the way it should respond in new or
traumatic situations such as this first veterinary visit! To do this, behave in the way
you want the puppy to behave when he or she is an adult dog.
For example, if you want a dog
that tolerates veterinary visits, even
enjoys them, act cheerful and
upbeat
before,
during,
and
especially immediately after the
treatment. If the pup yips or yowls
during a procedure, talk to it in a
jolly tone of voice until it wags its
tail.
If your pet is nervous or fearful, do
not reinforce their reaction by
coddling them.
This will teach
them
to
be
worried
and
concerned.
Instead
speak
confidently and cheerfully and
they will take their cues from you.
This tactic also works in other new
situations, such as trips to the park
for socializing with children and adults, puppy kindergarten classes or when
other dogs or strangers approach.
A dog that is relaxed and confident in any situation is an ideal pet, and an ideal
veterinary patient as well. We hope this handout will start us off on the right foot!
Updated 01/25/10
PUPPY WELLNESS CHECKLIST
1. Vaccinate with a series of boosters to give your puppy immunity against
contagious diseases.
2. Protect your puppy against internal parasites. Start with stool checks,
deworming medications and use a monthly heartworm preventative all year
round.
3. Protect against external parasites as well.
Use topical flea and tick
preventatives as recommended by the veterinary team.
4. Provide your pet the following items:
 food and water bowl
 bed
 collar and leash
 microchip
 I.D. Tag
 brush
 nail clippers
5. Invest in obedience training to keep your pet a happy and problem-free
member of your family.
6. Spend time while your puppy is young getting him accustomed to different
people and experiences.
7. Bathing and grooming recommendations
________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________
______
8. Ear Care Recommendations:______________________
_______________________________________________________________
 Dental Care:
Brush your pet’s teeth daily; please ask us for a
demonstration.
 Microchip: Permanent identification
Spay/Neuter at the appropriate time (6 months)
Updated 01/25/10
PUPPY VACCINATION OVERVIEW
Many common diseases, including distemper, can be deadly to your dog.
During the initial day of nursing puppies receive antibodies against certain
diseases from their mother’s milk. These protective antibodies are gradually lost
between 6 and 16 weeks of age. Your puppy should be vaccinated several
times during this period. Some diseases may be carried by rodents and wild
animals, as well as dogs. They can also be carried into your house on your
hands, shoes or clothing. Even if your dog is not in contact with other dogs, he or
she is still at risk!
The DA2PCPV vaccine, containing distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza,
and parvovirus, is given every 3 to 4 weeks, from the time the puppy is 6-8 weeks
old until it is at least 16 weeks old. Booster initially after one year, then every
three years thereafter.
A Bordetella vaccination can be given as soon as 6 weeks old, to protect
against canine kennel cough. This is most important for dogs that are exposed
to other dogs. This vaccination is given every 6-12 months.
When a puppy is 12 weeks of age or older, he or she will also receive a
Rabies vaccination.
Rabies is a uniformly fatal viral infection that can be
spread through contact with infected animals. Since it is a serious disease and
potentially can infect humans, all dogs are rabies vaccinated, regardless of
lifestyle. Rabies vaccinations are boostered initially after one year, then given
every two years.
If you take your dog hunting or camping, if you live in the country, or if you
can see deer from your yard, your dog should also be protected against Lyme
disease, which is usually carried by deer ticks. This requires an initial series of two
vaccinations spaced 2-3 weeks apart, and yearly boosters thereafter. The
vaccines may be started when your puppy is 9 weeks of age. This is NOT a
substitute for good tick protection.
Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection that can be contracted from contact
with the urine of infected wildlife. It can cause acute liver and kidney disease,
and can be fatal before diagnosis. It is also a zoonotic disease, meaning that it
can be spread to humans who come in contact with an infected dog.
Protection against leptospirosis is achieved with two vaccines given 3-4 weeks
apart, then an annual booster.
Updated 01/25/10
Leptospirosis
DA2PCPV
Rabies
Bordetella
Lyme
Date
Given:
Date
Due:
Date
Due:
Date
Due:
Date
Due:
Date
Due:
We may space these vaccines to prevent giving too many at the same time.
Follow the schedule above to vaccinate your puppy safely against the diseases
with which he/she is most likely to come into contact with.
Updated 01/25/10
BORDETELLA VACCINATION
Kennel Cough is the common name for a group of diseases similar to the human cold
or flu. Symptoms are fever, swollen tonsils or lymph nodes and a deep, honking, cough
that takes weeks to go away. Although rarely fatal, it can lead to pneumonia in
puppies, geriatric pets or those already ill with another disease. It can also cause
scarring of the respiratory system that may end a show or performance dog’s career.
There are several different bacteria and viruses that work together to cause Kennel
Cough. All are very contagious, especially when multiple dogs are in the same room
together. When a sick dog coughs or sneezes it sprays the infectious virus or bacteria
particles into the air, where they float around and are inhaled by another dog across
the room or in the cage next door. It can also be spread by touching noses, sharing
food or water bowls, or sniffing around where a sick dog has been.
The most common cause of Kennel Cough is a bacteria named Bordetella
bronchiseptica, the vaccine for Bordetella can be given intranasally or by injection.
The intranasal form protects in the nose, where the virus is most likely to be acquired, so
gives protection more quickly. However, the protection does not last as long.
Parainfluenza is a viral cause of Kennel Cough. There are two strains of parainfluenza
vaccine contained in the Distemper combination vaccine that most dogs receive
regularly.
All boarding kennels require that dogs be
vaccinated against Kennel Cough. Some
require Bordetella vaccination be given within
the previous 6 months to keep immunity high.
Many groomers do not recommend the
Bordetella vaccination, but they should.
Multiple dogs in and out of one room are the
ideal breeding ground for infection. Your pet
should also be vaccinated if you go to a dog
park, obedience training, hunting or hiking with
other dogs, or if you encounter other pets while
walking your dog. Even sitting in the waiting
room of the veterinary clinic, or entering the
clinic for dentistry, x-rays or other procedures,
puts the pet at risk for contracting this annoying
disease. Only pets confined to their own house
or yard have no risk of catching Kennel Cough.
As with most diseases, prevention is easy and cost effective. Be sure your pet is
vaccinated!
Updated 01/25/10
LYME DISEASE
Lyme disease is an infection caused by a type of bacteria called a
spirochete. Although originally discovered in Lyme, Connecticut, Lyme
disease has now been reported in most states. The disease is more
properly called Borreliosis, after the bacterial species that causes it Borrelia burgdorferi.
Lyme Disease is a serious and life threatening disease. It can cause an
array of symptoms, including kidney, heart, skin and neurological
disease, abortion, and infertility. The most common signs in dogs are
fever (103-104º F), weight loss, and lameness or joint pain, which may shift from leg to
leg. Irreversible kidney disease may occur with the progression of the disease.
Symptoms may occur as soon as 4 days after exposure to an infected tick, or as long as
1 year later. The average incubation period is 1 month.
HOW IS IT SPREAD?
The deer tick is the most common carrier of Lyme disease in Wisconsin, Minnesota and
the eastern coastal states. Recently, other species of ticks such as the
lone star tick, the wood tick and insects such as deer flies, horseflies
and mosquitoes have been found to carry the disease. Deer are not
the only animals that harbor deer ticks, so pets can pick up Lyme
disease whether or not they are in deer-populated areas. The larval
deer ticks prefer to feed on small rodents that live in grassy or brushy
areas, often around the fringes of woods or fields. They also can travel
long distances carried by birds.
The deer tick lives a rather complex life cycle. It develops from an egg
to a larvae, larva to a nymph, and finally from nymph to an adult. The
deer ticks are among the first ticks to become active in the spring, and
they remain active in various stages until the first snows in the fall. All
three life cycle stages of ticks can transmit Lyme disease, and all three
are very small and difficult to find.
CAN LYME DISEASE BE TREATED?
Yes. The bacterium that causes the disease is sensitive to several antibiotics.
Doxycycline is the one most commonly used to treat the disease in animals. The length
of time needed to treat the disease varies. Prolonged treatment may be necessary,
and relapses and re-infection are common. The earlier the diagnosis of the disease is
made, the more successful treatment is likely to be. Even with prompt treatment,
however, there can be permanent damage, especially if the infection involved the
brain, kidneys or heart.
Updated 01/25/10
LEPTOSPIROSIS
Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection that normally infects, but may not cause
serious disease in, livestock (cattle, pigs and sheep) and wildlife (deer, raccoon,
opossums, skunks and rodents). These bacteria can be transmitted to other
wildlife, our canine companions, and humans.
This transmission occurs when dogs are exposed to the bacteria either via
drinking standing water contaminated with urine from infected animals, or
getting urine from an infected carrier into an open wound. Therefore, dogs who
drink from, or walk through, lakes, large puddles, marshland, or dogs who live on
property that borders farms, are most likely to be exposed.
These bacteria, when it infects a person or a dog, can cause rapid, severe liver
and kidney damage. The symptoms initially are very vague: fever, vomiting,
diarrhea, weakness, lethargy and a decreased appetite. In infected animals,
this disease can progress rapidly without intensive therapy (intravenous fluids,
antibiotics, and several days of hospitalization), and even if treated
appropriately, can leave lifelong damage to the liver and the kidneys of an
affected animal.
Because of the severity of this disease, the long lasting implications for the
animal, and the potential for human infection after contact with an infected
pet, we are routinely vaccinating all dogs that have the potential to come in
contact with this disease. The vaccines have recently been reformulated in two
important ways. There are several serovars, or subspecies of the Leptospirosis
bacteria. Like different strains of the flu, these different strains may not be
protected against by the older vaccines, which only prevent two serovars from
causing problems. The vaccine that we use protects against four serovars, and
is the best that is currently available. Secondly, the older vaccine was
formulated using pieces of the bacteria that had been inactivated in order to
induce immunity. This, while effective, was more likely to cause an adverse
reaction in the dog being vaccinated. The newer vaccine uses different
technology to stimulate the immune system, so is less likely to cause this reaction.
We routinely use this vaccine, and see few problems.
If you are interested in this vaccination to protect your pet, or have more
questions, please discuss it with us.
Updated 01/25/10
WELLNESS TESTING FOR THE LIFE OF
YOUR PET
Pets age more rapidly than humans. With the aging process, changes occur in
the function of the body. Some of these changes can be seen from the outside:
weight gain or loss, stiffness, dull haircoat, loss of sight or hearing. Some changes,
however, occur internally and can’t be discovered
without laboratory testing. Unfortunately, by the time
Major
symptoms of illness can be seen, in liver or kidney
Problems
disease for example, organ damage is already in the
Kidney Disease
advanced stages.
Thyroid Disease
In order to detect organ damage in its early stages,
when it can be treated most successfully, we
recommend blood testing as part of your pet’s
wellness examination. Blood testing can also be
used to provide a baseline for comparison in the
event of future illness, allowing us to identify changes
that may assist in faster, more accurate diagnosis
and treatment.
Diabetes
Obesity
Arthritis
Heart Disease
Tooth/Gum Disease
Cancer
Rear Leg Weakness
Poor Hair Coat
Impaired Senses
(hearing, sight, smell)
Memory Loss
(loss of habits)
Test results serve double duty by providing information before surgery or dental
procedures, allowing for safer anesthesia. We also use this information to ensure
that long term medications are not hurting the pets liver and kidneys.
At the Animal Wellness Center, we offer a basic check of organ function as a
simple blood draw with every physical examination. This allows for a check of
kidney and liver function, glucose levels and protein levels. We will suggest
more in-depth testing or additional tests as needed depending on your pet’s
age, breed predispositions and previous history.
Early detection can mean a longer, healthier
life for your companion.
Updated 01/25/10
ZOONOTIC DISEASES
Our pets give us love, loyalty, and … sickness??? Zoonotic diseases are diseases
caused by infectious agents that can be transmitted between animals and
humans. All people are at risk of contracting a zoonotic disease, although those
with weakened immune systems, such as infants, individuals with AIDs, the
elderly and those undergoing chemotherapy are more susceptible to zoonotic
disease than others. We will highlight a few diseases that your pet could spread
to you or your family:
Bites and scratches – one out of two people will be bitten by a dog or cat in
his or her life. Most injuries are minor, but some may cause severe trauma,
infection, or even death. You should contact your physician after any bite or
scratch that breaks the skin. Cat bites frequently can become infected and
many people are hospitalized each year with Cat Scratch Disease, caused by a
very specific bacterium harbored by cats. Rabies is the most serious disease that
can be transmitted by animal bites and scratches. If not treated very early,
rabies is fatal in animals and people. Unvaccinated animals that bite a person
need to be quarantined to make sure that they do not show signs of rabies.
Since rabies is such a serious zoonotic disease, be sure to keep your pets current
on rabies vaccinations.
Roundworm, Hookworm and Whipworm infection – these common
intestinal worms can also infect humans. The eggs of these parasites are
microscopic and can survive for long periods in the soil. These parasites can
invade people by ingestion of their eggs or by direct penetration of the skin by
larvae (immature worms). The larvae can then migrate through the person’s
body and invade the skin, eye, liver, brain, or lung. Treatment in people can be
difficult, so prevention is the best policy. All puppies and kittens need a series of
at least three deworming treatments and three negative fecal tests. Keep your
pet on heartworm prevention throughout the year, as it helps to prevent
intestinal parasites as well and bring a fecal sample in for your pet’s yearly
check-up to make sure that it is free of parasites. Clean up after your pet
defecates, and wash your hands after handling your pet.
Tick-borne diseases – Lyme, Ehrlichia and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever are
three common illnesses carried by ticks. They generally cause arthritis and blood
abnormalities. Tick-borne diseases require several hosts during their life cycle.
For this reason they are not directly transmissible from another mammal (such as
Updated 01/25/10
a deer or a dog) to a person. The tick must act as an intermediate host. Protect
your dog by applying ParaStarPlus or Frontline monthly from the months of April
through November. You may also consider the Lyme vaccine if you have a dog
who spends a lot of time in the woods or tall grassy areas. There is no approved
vaccine against Lyme disease in people, so take precautions to protect yourself
against tick bites by wearing long pants, shirts, and socks when in wooded or
grassy areas, and check yourself daily for ticks during the warm months.
Giardia – Giardia is a one-celled parasite that can cause acute and chronic
diarrhea in pets and people. The most common cause of infection in people is
from drinking contaminated water (e.g. pond or stream water). Infected dogs
and cats may also transmit the organism to people by shedding it in their feces.
Minimize the risk of infection by taking good care of your pet (shedding of the
organism increases in animals that are stressed or ill). Also clean up regularly and
wash your hands after handling your pet.
Leptospirosis is an emerging bacterial infection that can be contracted from
contact with the urine of infected wildlife. It can cause acute liver and kidney
disease, and can be fatal before diagnosis. It can be spread to humans who
come in contact with an infected dog.
Protection against leptospirosis is
achieved with two vaccines given 3-4 weeks apart, then an annual booster.
This is just a short list of the most common zoonotic diseases. Most of these can
be prevented by using good hygiene and common sense. Please call us or your
physician if you have any other questions! For more information, you can also
access the Center for Disease Control’s website at www.cdc.gov/healthypets;
Companion Animal Parasite Council’s website at www.capcvet.org
Updated 01/25/10
INTERNAL PARASITE CONTROL
95% of puppies are born with intestinal worms! These parasites can cause
vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss, stunted growth and even death. Some kinds are
also transmissible to humans. Over 10,000 cases of intestinal parasites cause
illness in children every year in the United States. In response to the seriousness
of intestinal parasites, the Companion Animal Parasite Control Guidelines were
created. These guidelines, decided on by veterinary parasitologists and human
health professionals at the Centers for Disease Control, are designed to keep
your pet healthy and parasite free, and you and your family free from zoonotic
diseases. The guidelines, in their entirety, are available at
www.petsandparasites.com
Internal parasites are diagnosed by having a fresh stool sample examined. In
accordance with CAPC guidelines, we recommend checking three stool
samples in the first year of life (generally when you get your puppy, at the end of
puppy vaccinations, and at spay/neuter surgery time). Stool samples should be
collected when they are fresh and stored in the refrigerator until they can be
brought to the clinic. DO NOT freeze them. A teaspoon or two is all that is
necessary.
In order to increase the accuracy of the fecal examination, we send all of our
routine fecal samples to a diagnostic laboratory. These trained experts use
certrifugation, which helps to concentrate the parasites and their eggs and
allows them to diagnose parasites even when there is only a mild infection or
only a few eggs in the sample. This increases the chance that we will diagnose
and treat effectively.
If a stool sample from your puppy is found to be positive for worms, the
veterinarian will prescribe an effective medication. We will need to have a
current weight on your puppy before dispensing wormer, to ensure proper
dosage. Stool samples should be checked again after the final dose of
medication, to ensure that your dog is not being reinfested by his or her
environment. For prevention of internal parasites, remove fecal material from
your yard regularly and dispose of it. We also recommend starting a heartworm
preventative, a monthly chewable medication that also prevents the most
common intestinal parasites.
So that you may better understand the problems internal parasites can cause
and what signs to look for, we have included a short description of the most
common types of internal parasites.
Updated 01/25/10
ROUNDWORMS . . .
are the most common type of intestinal parasite. They are 2-4 inches long and
resemble strands of spaghetti. They live in the small intestine, and may cause
vomiting, diarrhea or weight loss. Larval worms also damage the liver and lungs
while migrating through these organs on their way to the small intestine.
Roundworms are transmitted via stools of other infected dogs or cats, or through
the uterus of the mother dog to her unborn pups. Entire worms can sometimes
be seen in the stools or vomit of infested animals. People can be infected with
roundworms through contact with eggs from infected puppies.
HOOKWORMS . . .
are half inch long worms that attach to the lining of the
small intestine, causing blood loss and diarrhea. Puppies
can become infected through the mother’s uterus before
birth, or via her milk after birth. Older animals acquire
hookworms through skin contact with the stools of other
dogs or cats.
People can also acquire hookworm
infections in this manner.
WHIPWORMS . . .
live in the large intestine. They are not as common as the other intestinal
parasites but the disease they cause can be very serious. Bloody diarrhea and
weight loss are the symptoms seen. These worms are transmitted by ingestion of
the stools of infested animals.
TAPEWORMS . . .
live in the small intestine, where the head attaches to the intestinal wall and
produces a chain of segments. Mature segments containing eggs are passed
with the stool, or may be seen around the rectum. They resemble small grains of
rice. They may be acquired by the ingestion of rodents, birds or, most
commonly, through the ingestion of fleas. Flea control is essential to control
tapeworm infestation.
COCCIDIA . . .
are one-celled protozoal parasites, more like bacteria rather than “worms.”
Puppies can pick these up from their mother and they can also be acquired by
eating rabbit or other wildlife droppings. Many animals can shed coccidia and
not be symptomatic. Younger or immunocompromised pets can have signs
ranging from mild soft stool to life-threatening bloody diarrhea and vomiting.
While most coccidian species are not infective to humans, Toxoplasma gondii
can be infective to humans and has the potential for severe consequences.
They are treated with antibiotics. Coccidia can lay dormant in the soil for
Updated 01/25/10
months to years. It is best to pick up your pet’s stool as they defecate. If your
pets continue to get re-infected, you may need to treat your yard.
GIARDIA . . .
are also protozoa. They are very difficult to detect on the regular parasite
screen. We can detect giardia infestations with a special fecal cytology or with
a test that looks for giardia without using the microscope. Giardia can be
treated, but can be difficult to eradicate completely and often flare up with
stress or other intestinal problems. Multiple courses of treatment may be
necessary. One way giardia is contracted is by drinking contaminated water.
They are contagious to humans and cause vomiting and diarrhea in both
people and pets.
Updated 01/25/10
FLEAS AND TICKS
Fleas are among the most common health problems of dogs and cats. It is
easier and more cost-effective to prevent fleas on your pets than to have to
treat an infestation of fleas in your house. Regular use of flea
products will take care of the occasional flea your pets may
encounter.
Fleas will bite your pets, causing an itchy allergic reaction, which
can become quite severe. They carry viral and bacterial
diseases, including some that are transmissible to humans. In
smaller animals, especially puppies and kittens, the anemia they
cause from feeding on the animal’s blood can be fatal. They
also carry tapeworms. Tapeworm segments in the stool or around the rectal
area look like small grains of rice. If your dog or cat has fleas, chances are good
he has tapeworms - and vice versa.
Wildlife, as well as other cats and dogs, bring fleas into your yard. Pets and
people can then bring the fleas into the house. Birds nesting in the attic or mice
seeking shelter can also bring fleas into your home. Fleas will hop inside through
an open door or window and are often small enough to come through a
window screen. Once inside your home there is no place a flea cannot reach.
Fleas are about 1/8 inch long, reddish brown and
shaped like a sesame seed with legs. They are usually
found on your pet’s head, belly or lower back. If you
ripple the hair backwards and look at the skin they
can be seen scurrying through the base of the hair
coat. The droppings they leave behind can be seen
in clusters. They look like grains of pepper. If you
place some of these on a white paper towel, wet it
and mush it around it will turn the paper towel red.
This is because flea droppings contain digested
blood. Plain dirt stays black or gray when wet.
Prevention
Treating all pets so they don’t
bring reproducing fleas into the
house
can
prevent
flea
infestation.
Most compounds
strong enough to be effective are sold only through
licensed veterinarians and exterminators, who are properly
Updated 01/25/10
trained in their use, and are regulated by the state and the EPA. Insecticides
should be used only according to label directions. Care is needed to ensure
that toxicity does not develop due to the concurrent use of other drugs,
pesticides or chemicals, or because the compound used was not safe for a
particular age or type of animal.
Many insecticidal flea collars available in stores are not very effective and often
cause dermatitis on the pet’s neck. Flea shampoos have no residual effect. They
only kill fleas present on the pet at the time the bath is given. As soon as the
animal dries off, fleas will hop right back on. For long-term control you need a
product that safely stays in or on the body for days or weeks at a time.
1) ParastarPlus
This is a liquid product that is applied in one spot on the skin between the
shoulder blades once a month to protect your pet from ticks, fleas, mites and
chewing lice. Remains effective after bathing and swimming. Starts killing ticks
in as little as one hour. DO NOT use on cats.
2) Revolution
This is a liquid product that is applied to the skin on the back of your pet’s neck
and spreads by itself to protect your pet from heartworms, fleas, ear mites,
mange and intestinal parasites for one month. Selamectin is the active
ingredient in Revolution which provides the broad spectrum protection.
3) Frontline
Frontline Topspot is a liquid applied to the skin on the back of the neck and it
spreads over the body by itself to protect the entire pet within 48 hours of
application. Frontline kills fleas and ticks for 1 month on cats and dogs. This
makes it not only one of the safest products on the market but also the longest
lasting. It is waterproof, so your pet can get a bath or be outside in the rain and
still be protected against fleas. Don’t be fooled by look-alike products available
in grocery and pet stores. Those usually contain pyrethrins and other older
insecticides that are not only less effective than fipronyl but can be toxic as well.
4) Capstar
Capstar is a pill that creates an immediate (within 10 minutes!) kill of all adult
fleas on your pet. This can be used on any animal over 2 pounds, so it is helpful
for smaller pets. It is only effective for 24 hours, but can be very helpful for the
dog or cat that is heavily infested. We will be using Capstar in our boarding and
grooming facilities for all pets who are not currently on flea preventative to
prevent infestation of our premises.
Updated 01/25/10
TICKS
Ticks are also arthropods (insects) that feed on warm-blooded animals. Ticks are
known to carry many diseases. Ticks in this area carry Lyme disease, Rocky
Mountain spotted fever and Ehrlichiosis (Anaplasmosis). All of these diseases
have serious symptoms, and may be fatal if not diagnosed in time. It is far safer
to prevent ticks from attaching and transmitting disease than it is to treat these
diseases after they have been acquired.
We generally recommend that people use ParastarPlus for dogs or EasySpot for
cats to kill and repel ticks. Both are absorbed into the oil layer of the pets’ coat
and kill ticks as they attach, before they can transmit disease. Cats and dogs
are able to be bathed or swim within 48 hours of product application. If you are
considering beginning a flea or tick control program for your pets, please
consult with us. There are many products on the market and we would be
happy to help you decide which ones are right for you.
Updated 01/25/10
CANINE HEARTWORM DISEASE
Heartworm disease is a serious,
deadly disease spread by the bite of
an infected mosquito. Each year
thousands
of
dogs
become
permanently debilitated or die from
lung, heart or circulatory problems
caused by heartworms. Your dog
can have heartworms for several
months
before
symptoms
are
obvious. By then the disease may be
difficult or impossible to treat
successfully.
SYMPTOMS
An infected dog becomes less
active and tires easily. Coughing,
weight loss, chronic fatigue and
fainting may appear in advanced
disease stages. Adult heartworms are found
in the heart, lungs and majorblood vessels.
Secondary liver and kidney disease may
result. Heartworms can grow from 5 to 14
inches long. In advanced cases, a hundred
or more worms have been found in a single
heart.
Heartworm Life Cycle
PREVENTION
A simple blood test is required before starting your pet on effective, easy-to-use
preventive medication. Annual testing is recommended even in year-round use
of the medication. Make sure your pet is tested and protected.
TREATMENT
Successful treatment depends on early detection and close veterinary
supervision. If permanent damage has occurred, prognosis is very poor. We are
happy to say that most of our clients who own dogs do have them tested for
heartworms and put them on preventative medication every year. It is easy and
inexpensive to test for and prevent heartworm disease. Not only are heartworm
medications reasonably priced but many of them now prevent roundworms,
Updated 01/25/10
whipworms and hookworms as well. These parasites live in the intestines.
Roundworms and hookworms can also cause problems for people, especially
children who may be out barefoot in the yard, or toddlers who may put soiled
fingers in their mouths. Both the Centers for Disease Control and the Companion
Animal Parasite Council recommend that all dogs be placed on heartworm
prevention year round for the protection of their family members from these
parasites.
Untreated animals spread disease. Please don’t let yours be one!
Unfortunately, heartworm disease is here to stay, as there will always be dog
owners who do not choose to put their pets on a heartworm prevention
program. These unprotected animals serve as a reservoir, spreading the disease
to other dogs. Please don’t let your dog become a victim of this deadly disease.
Call for an appointment to get your pet started on a parasite prevention
program today.
FACT...
All dogs, regardless of age, sex, size or breed, are at risk
wherever mosquitoes are present. It takes only ONE infected mosquito to
infect your dog.
FACT... Heartworm Disease can kill your dog.
FACT... Effective, easy-to-use preventive medication
dog’s life!
Updated 01/25/10
can save your
HOW TO CHOOSE A PET FOOD
One of the most common questions we are asked is “What should I feed my pet?”
Since one of the most important contributions you can make to your pet’s health and
well-being is his or her daily diet, it’s a question that deserves a good answer.
Think quality!
First of all, with pet foods, as with most things, you get what you pay for. Cheap dog
and cat foods use cheap ingredients, have poor quality control, are not well digested
and may have excesses or deficiencies in vital nutrients, which can harm your pet.
When analyzed in a laboratory many generic and store brand foods do not actually
contain the level of nutrition stated on the label. So, to get the best nutrition, choose a
well known name brand.
Your pet will do best if you pick one complete food that is appropriate for his or her age
and activity level, and stick with it. For a puppy, this means a puppy food. Young,
rapidly growing animals need more nutrition than adult food can provide. Large breed
puppies in particular need a puppy food that is balanced appropriately to help them
grow without joint deformities. Please ask our staff for specific recommendations for
your puppy.
Don’t switch foods
Animals do not need variety in their diets. Dogs are prone to digestive upsets such as
diarrhea on varied diets or table scraps. Both dogs and cats are prone to becoming
finicky eaters when fed a varied diet, causing problems for their owners later on. These
problems usually appear in middle aged dogs that may by then be difficult to
accustom to a more healthy diet. So, don’t switch foods every other week. If you do
need to change from one product to another, do so gradually by mixing the two diets
together for a few days. This will help prevent diarrhea from a too sudden change in
food.
Don’t base your food choices on what you would like to eat, as many pet food
manufacturers would like you to do. Dogs don’t care whether their food is red or brown.
They also don’t care if it looks like beef stew or
little pork chops! The fancier the food looks, the
more you are paying for unnecessary artificial
coloring, flavoring and preservatives.
A dry food is best for your pet’s teeth and gums,
so the majority of your dog’s nutritional needs
should be met with a kibble type food.
Updated 01/25/10
Recommendation
Premium foods contain superior nutrition over grocery store brands. They are extensively
tested and meet rigid standards with no ingredient substitutions. The finest pet foods are
formulated with controlled levels of key nutrients like fat, protein, phosphorus and
magnesium to help reduce the risk of such problems as obesity and kidney disease. In
large breed puppies, a puppy food that is balanced for larger breed puppies, made by
a premium company such as Royal Canin or Hill’s, is ideal. It is important for large
breed puppy growth that they are fed a controlled amount 3 times daily until four
months of age, then a controlled amount twice daily. Not doing so may worsen the
predisposition to inflammatory bone diseases and hip dysplasia.
What about treats?
Most dog owners feed treats to their dogs as well as their regular food. Treats are rarely
“complete and balanced”, and are often loaded with salt, fat, artificial colorings and
preservatives, all of which comprise “junk food” for animals. Stick with a crunchy biscuit
type of treat for your dog. Some of them, such as Royal Canine and Hill’s line of life
stage biscuits, are better than others. Read labels before you buy. Also, these biscuits
help slow the build up of dental tartar, but they cannot remove tartar once it is present.
Your pet will still need dental care even if you feed him this type of snack. Check
rawhide treat labels, and stay away from brands not made in the USA. Foreign
manufacturers are allowed to use formalin as a preservative in these chews, which is
harmful to pets.
Supplements & Calories
Do not give any vitamin or mineral supplements to your dog without your veterinarian’s
advice. These types of supplements can easily cause harmful nutrient excesses.
Puppies need lots of calories to grow on, and plenty of fresh water. Until they are 4
months old, feed at least three meals a day, giving as much as the animal will consume
in a ten to fifteen minute feeding. It’s much easier to housebreak a puppy if you feed
him or her at set times every day. Puppies will then have regular, predictable potty
times.
Frequency
Once your young dog is 4 months old, you can cut back to two meals per day.
Continue to feed a diet made for puppies until your dog is 1 year old, longer for large
dogs that won’t be mature until 15-18 months of age.
Updated 01/25/10
EXERCISE AND YOUR PUPPY
All puppies need an outlet for their endless and abundant
energy. Exercise is one way to entertain your companion.
When puppies are properly mentally and physically
stimulated, they are less destructive, hyper and/or anxious.
Every puppy will enjoy different activities to achieve this
goal. Some may prefer to play a game of fetch with a
tennis ball or other items. Others may prefer a game of
chase, a nice walk or a run. There is no right or wrong way
to exercise your puppy, as long as the two of you are
having fun.
Although there are no wrong activities to try, some
important guidelines should be followed. Most young
puppies will tire quickly. So, it is not recommended to
exercise any puppy to the point of exhaustion. Also, no dog should ever work
too long in excess heat or cold.
Large breed puppies have special exercise restrictions to promote proper bone
growth. These puppies should not be overworked or worked vigorously on hard
surfaces. The best type of exercise for large breed puppies is running in the
backyard or going for short walks.
Dog parks can be a wonderful experience for a
well-socialized puppy. Be sure your puppy is well
vaccinated, parasite free and protected for
heartworms, fleas and ticks before venturing out to
the park. Even though the dog park is a great
place to go, it is not for everyone. Shy, young, or
aggressive puppies or dogs should never go to the
dog park. It is also recommended to have verbal
control of your puppy or dog at all times.
Updated 01/25/10
HOW TO CHOOSE A CHEW TOY
Dogs love to chew! Giving your dog appropriate
things to chew on is good for their teeth and gums,
keeps them occupied, and decreases the
tendency to chew on things they shouldn’t. But did
you know that some chews you can buy for your
pet are actually harmful? Unlike toys for children,
there are no rules or regulations regarding toys or
treats for pets. Just because you can buy an item in
a store does not mean it’s good for your pet! So
what should you watch for and what should you
avoid?
Toys with small parts that your dog could swallow or
choke on are common. Avoid any toy that has
strings, googly eyes or any other part that could
come off.
Avoid items that are too hard. The most common items on which dogs break their teeth
are cow hooves/chew hooves and hard nylon bones. Biting down just right on an
object that is too hard causes a slab of the tooth to shear off. If the tooth breaks such
that the tooth root is exposed, the tooth will be very painful and will subsequently
become infected. Because this usually happens to the large back premolar that is
difficult to see, your dog may be in pain for many months before you even know there
is a problem. Do not give your dog chew hooves – period. It does not matter how big
your dog is.
Another popular item is the rawhide chew. Rawhides come in all different sizes and
shapes and sometimes even in flavors. Unfortunately, many of them are preserved in
formalin or formaldehyde which are carcinogens and can also be toxic to the liver.
Most of the rawhides that contain these toxic preservatives are from foreign countries.
Their use is restricted in the U.S. so rawhides made here in the states are usually safe.
Keep searching until you find the
ones made here and don’t buy
any made in other countries. If
your dog swallows large pieces of
rawhide
that
could
cause
choking, switch to a smaller or
larger form that prevents this. Do
not give your dog rawhides if it
gives him diarrhea or an upset
stomach. The same guidelines
Updated 01/25/10
also apply to pigs’ ears, turkey feet and other preserved animal parts.
Raw meat or bones are not safe for dogs or people. Not only can uncooked bones
break teeth, but they can also give your dog
Salmonella, Toxoplasmosis, E. coli or other food
poisoning. Chicken, turkey or other small bones can
splinter and cause punctures in the mouth,
esophagus or intestines, so these also should never
be fed to pets.
Pieces of rope with a knot at each end are popular
now. These are a good choice as they are soft and
gentle on teeth and gums. Throw them away when
they start to unravel. Soft plush toys usually don’t last
long and if the stuffing is swallowed it can cause an
intestinal blockage. Take these away as soon as
they start to come apart.
Gumabones are also good. Unlike Nylabones these are not hard enough to fracture
teeth. Pick one on the softer side. If your puppy is teething, try placing a toy in the
freezer for a few hours. A chilled one helps numb the gums. Squeaky toys are also good
as long as the squeaker can’t come loose and be swallowed and there are no parts
that can be chewed off. Make sure any plastic or vinyl toys you choose are sturdy,
heavyweight, and large enough that the pet can’t choke on it. The same goes for balls.
Balls should be larger than the dog can fit in the back of his mouth.
Kong toys are highly recommended. They are heavy-weight, come in several sizes and
have a hollow center into which you can stuff a little peanut butter, cream cheese, liver
sausage or other food treat. Your dog will spend hours working at getting the food out
with his tongue. A dog thus occupied is much less likely to be getting into trouble
chewing on other things, especially if the Kong toy is brought out only as a special treat
whenever you leave the house.
Frisbees are always popular and another good choice, especially for large dogs. Old
socks and shoes are NOT good choices - your dog can’t be expected to understand
the difference between old shoes and your best shoes.
Whatever toys you choose, use common sense and look for tough, long-lasting and
durable choices. If your dog likes what you’ve chosen, he’ll be sure to put it to the test!
Updated 01/25/10
Twin Cities Area Off-Leash Dog Parks
Three Rivers Parks District – Hours: 5am – Sunset
All Three Rivers off leash dog parks require a permit available to purchase from the Park District
Administrative Center, Cleary Lake Visitor Center, or Eastman Nature Center. Rabies vaccination
is required.
Elm Creek (Dayton) – over 30 Acres of fenced area with small pond, tables, trees,
parking and restrooms
Lake Sarah (Rockford) – Over 30 acres with trees, parking and restrooms
Crow Hassan (Rogers) – Over 30 acres, non-fenced, with tables, trees, parking and
restrooms
Minneapolis Parks – Hours: 6am-10pm 612-673-5310
Minneapolis Parks require a permit for each dog available to purchase at the Animal Care
Center or by mail
Columbia Park (St. Anthony parkway)
Franklin Terrace (Franklin and 30th)
Lake of the Isles (East Lake of the Isles Parkway)
Minnehaha Park (South Minnehaha Ave)
Loring Park ( Maple St and Harmon Place)
Ramsey County Parks – Hours: Sunrise -Sunset 651-266-8500
Maplewood (Battle Creek)
Roseville (Woodview)
Shoreview (Rice Creek)
Egan Park (Plymouth) – 763-509-5000 - 10 Acres of mowed open play area and trails,
non-fenced
Bloomington – Hours: Dawn – 10pm 952-563-8892 fenced-in
Alimagnet Dog Park (Burnsville) – Hours: 5am-10pm - permit required – heated
building, dog washing station, pond, night lights, special needs dog run
St. Paul (Arlington Ave and Arkwright St) – Hours: Sunrise – 9pm – 4.5 acres
fenced
Updated 01/25/10
PUPPY TRAINING TIPS EVERY
OWNER SHOULD KNOW
Socialization
Puppies are the most impressionable between 4 to 11 weeks of age. During this
critical period, puppies should be exposed to various stimuli in different
environments. For the first year of a new puppy’s life they should go everywhere
and anywhere you are able to take them. All these experiences should be
accomplished voluntarily and pleasantly by you and the puppy. Examples:
 Veterinarian Office
 Groomer
 Car Rides
 Other dogs of various sizes and ages
 New People
 Traffic
Housetraining
Puppies will need constant supervision when they are not in their confined
space for several months after acquisition. Puppies will need to go outside the
minute they awake from sleeping, when they have finished vigorous play, and
10 –15 minutes after eating or drinking. At the beginning of housebreaking,
puppies should be taken outside every 20 – 30 minutes to help alleviate any
accidents in the home. With time, the frequency of the outside visits should
decrease. Puppies should always be taken outside on a leash and supervised to
ensure proper elimination.
Puppies should also trail a lightweight leash attached while inside for the first 2
weeks in a new home. This will aid in housebreaking, decreasing destructive
behaviors, and teaching the puppy to come. If the puppy is on leash in the
home, then you will be able to see the leash move away as the puppy leaves to
find a bathroom spot. Also, when the puppy is chewing on an inappropriate
item, you may grasp the leash and trade them an appropriate item for the
other. Finally, the leash will allow you to never chase a puppy and start working
on getting them to come when called.
Updated 01/25/10
Crate Training
There are many advantages to crate training your new puppy. Crate training
will help decrease housebreaking time, prevent destructive behaviors, and
provide a safe traveling location for car rides. The crate should be just large
enough for the puppy to stand, turn around, and lie down. As your puppy
grows, you may need to invest in a larger crate. If you initially purchase a large
crate, you should partition off a section allowing just enough room. Newspaper
or potty pads can be used to line the bottom of the kennel, and a small towel
can be offered for comfort. If the puppy chews or uses the towel to soil on, then
this privilege should be removed and reintroduced at a later time.
The crate should be placed in a quiet, but central location in the home. When it
is time to go into the kennel, tell the puppy “kennel” in an exciting voice and
lure them in with a treat. If the puppy vocalizes, completely ignore them until
they are calm, then reward for the desired behavior. The more consistent you
are with ignoring this behavior, the quicker the problem will diminish. The kennel
is a great place to feed your new puppy all meals so they will eagerly enter
every time. It is best to not leave food or water in the kennel when you are
away. Most puppies will spill their water and play with the puddle of water/food
mixture. When you are away, the kennel should contain some safe toys and
bones to keep them occupied.
Meals
Puppies should be fed a high quality puppy food at least 2 to 4 times per day,
depending on their age, size, and your schedule. It is best to feed a large breed
puppy food to dogs that will weigh over 50 pounds at maturity. A large breed
puppy food will have decreased calcium and phosphorous, restricted calories,
and contain high quality protein. All these factors help develop lean muscle
and strong bones. Small breed puppies should be fed several times per day to
ensure proper glucose levels.
As your puppy grows, the amount of food required to meet their energy needs
will change. When puppies are 6 to 9 weeks old they should be offered 3 to 4
meals per day allowing the puppy to eat any quantity for about 20 minutes. As
the puppy develops, a certain quantity should be fed 2 to 3 times per day. This
quantity will vary depending on size, activity level, and other calorie sources. A
healthy puppy should have their ribs easily felt without much pressure, the
abdomen should narrow after the ribs, and an abdominal tuck should be
present. Please feel free to ask anyone at the Animal Wellness Center to help
determine appropriate feedings for your puppy.
Updated 01/25/10
Normal Behavior
Dogs learn through past experiences. Puppies will test their owners in every
situation and form an association with different behaviors. A young puppy
should be given clear and consistent goals from every member of the family. All
members must work together as a team to establish which behaviors are
allowed and which behaviors will be discouraged.
As the owner of a dog, it is up to you to teach them to relax, be calm, and
collect themselves in different situations. This can be accomplished by teaching
a puppy a settling position where all experiences have been pleasant and
rewarding. In this position, puppies should be conditioned to nail trims, brushing,
wiping of feet, and belly rubs. The puppy should be praised only when calm
and relaxed, rewarded often, and exposed to frequent-short sessions.
Puppy Play Biting
Puppies explore their world through their mouth. This exploration can led them
to trouble when they bite their humans too hard and too frequently. Puppies
should learn how much pressure is too much by teaching them an “inhibited
bite.” If a puppy mouths your hand with no pressure, than you should continue
your normal activity. If a puppy mouths your hand with pressure, than you
should resolve this by using the modification scale.
Step 1:
Step 2:
Step 3:
Step 4:
Step 5:
Startling “yip” (Startle the puppy while you redirect their attention
elsewhere.)
Place the puppy in the settling position
Stern “no bite” while holding the puppy
Stern “no bite” while puppy is in the settling position
Timeout away from family
You should never strike your puppy for any reason.
Chewing
It is a very common occurrence for puppies to chew on anything they may
encounter. For this reason puppies must have constant supervision when they
are loose in the home. When you are unable to monitor your puppy, they
should be confined either to their crate or safe area. Puppies should have
access to appropriate toys (bones, Kong’s, etc.) at all times. When you catch
your puppy chewing on inappropriate objects, ignore the behavior and trade
them one of their toys. When the puppy has possession of an object, trade
them a toy or treat of higher value instead of taking the object away. Puppies
should never be chased. Chasing puppies will turn into a game, and cause the
puppy to be less likely to come when needed. Almost all puppies will elicit this
Updated 01/25/10
behavior at some point. Do not make a big deal of chewing; instead redirect
their attention to something more fun.
Grooming
All puppies will need to be conditioned to having their nails trimmed, teeth
brushed, ears cleaned, coat brushed, and bathed. Nail trims, teeth brushing,
and ear cleanings should be conducted weekly while the puppy is in a calm
position. Every puppy should have his or her coat brushed or combed several
times per week. Puppies can be bathed with a mild puppy shampoo whenever
needed. Bathing your puppy once every few weeks may work well. If your
puppy will need to visit a groomer, their first visit should be prior to twelve weeks
of age. We offer an “introduction to Grooming” appointment to help get your
puppy off to a great grooming start.
Training
It is never too early to start training your new puppy. You should reward often
with treats, toys, and verbal reinforcement. Early training sessions should be kept
short and positive. Everyone in the home should be practicing the same
techniques with the puppy. Everyone in the home should be rewarding desired
behaviors and ignoring undesired behavior by withdrawal of your attention.
Every puppy should attend at least one set of puppy classes. These classes
contain valuable information for you, and serve as a great opportunity for
socialization for your puppy. Puppies are able to attend group classes once
they have received their second set of distemper boosters.
The most valuable training tool you could use with your puppy is the gentle
leader. This is a different training collar, which takes advantage of the dog’s
natural pressure points. Gentle leaders work well to make puppies more calm
and collected, and stop the puppy from pulling on the leash. For further
information on Gentle Leaders, please contact us.
Updated 01/25/10
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE
YOUR PET’S UPCOMING SURGERY
Is The Anesthesia Safe? Many pet owners worry about anesthesia and their
pets. Although anesthesia can never be completely free of risk, the anesthetics
that we use make that risk very small.
The same anesthetics that allow complicated surgeries such as heart and kidney
transplants to be done on humans are used in pets as well. Even very frail
animals can usually be anesthetized safely. In general, the risks from NOT
performing a needed procedure, such as dental cleaning or tumor removal, are
much higher than the risk from the anesthesia.
A pre-anesthetic physical exam and blood testing is important in reducing the
risk of anesthesia. Every pet needs blood testing before surgery to ensure that
the liver and kidneys are functioning properly. Even apparently healthy animals
can have serious organ system problems that cannot be detected without
blood testing. If there is a problem it is much better to find it before it causes
anesthetic or surgical complications! If serious problems are detected, surgery
can be postponed until the problem is treated.
It is important that surgery be done on an empty stomach to reduce the risk of
vomiting related to the anesthesia. You will need to withhold food after 10:00
the night before surgery, but water can be left out until the morning of surgery.
Here at the Animal Wellness Center, during anesthesia your pet’s blood oxygen
level, blood pressure, temperature, EKG, and respiration rate will be monitored
closely throughout the surgery. The anesthesia is always administered by
certified veterinary technicians or doctors to ensure safety and proper dosing.
All anesthetized animals have an intravenous catheter placed and receive
intravenous fluids during surgery. Intravenous fluids help to maintain blood
pressure and hydration during surgery, allow for more efficient processing of
anesthesia and smoother recoveries. Your pet will go home with a shaved area
from the catheter on his or her leg. If a bandage is still in place, you can
remove it in one hour. Make sure that your pet does not lick the shaved area.
We use multi-modal pain management, which means that every pet receives
pain control appropriate to the level of pain associated with their surgery, and
the level of pain that your pet is experiencing. In addition to pain medication
we frequently send home, we use pain management before, during and after
every surgical procedure. It is shown that it is far easier to control pain before it
has begun, and that pain control allows for faster healing times, lower stress
levels and smoother recoveries from surgery.
Updated 01/25/10
Will My Pet Have Stitches? Not
usually. For most surgeries we use
absorbable sutures underneath
the skin. These will dissolve and do
not need to be removed later.
You will only need to keep an eye
on the incision for swelling or
discharge. In order to prevent
dogs from licking or chewing at
their incision, we will send home
an elizabethan collar the day of surgery.
You will also need to limit your pet’s activity level for a time and no baths are
allowed for the first 14 days after surgery.
Will My Pet Be In Pain? Anything that causes pain in people can be
expected to cause pain in animals. Dogs may not show the same symptoms of
pain as people do – they don’t usually cry out - but you can be sure they feel it.
Recent advances in pain medications have allowed for better pain control in
our pets. We generally provide both narcotic (like morphine) and antiinflammatory pain medication for our dogs undergoing major surgery. You may
be sent home with some pain medication to give after the surgery. DO NOT
GIVE ANY OVER-THE-COUNTER MEDICATION UNLESS DIRECTED BY YOUR
VETERINARIAN. Remember that spaying and neutering are major surgeries.
Providing pain relief is a humane and caring thing to do for your pet.
What Other Decisions Do I Need To Make? While your pet is under
anesthesia is the ideal time to perform other minor procedures such as
implanting an ID microchip. While under anesthesia, we will also look for and
extract any retained deciduous teeth that your pet my have. We will ask you
about these extra procedures when you bring your pet in.
When you bring your pet in for surgery, we will need 10-15 minutes of time to fill
out paperwork and make decisions. Please be sure to give us telephone
numbers where we can reach you during the morning. We will call to let you
know that all is well as your pet recovers and will call you if anything unforeseen
happens during surgery. When you pick up your pet after surgery you can also
plan to spend about 20 minutes to go over your dog’s home care needs.
We will call you the day before your scheduled surgery appointment to confirm
the time you will be dropping your pet off and to answer any questions you
might have. In the meantime, please don’t hesitate to call us with any questions
about your pet’s health or surgery!
Updated 01/25/10
SPAYING / NEUTERING YOUR PET
The average lifespan of a neutered pet is longer than an unaltered one. Many
unspayed female dogs will eventually develop either mammary tumors (breast cancer)
or a severe uterine infection called pyometra, by the time they are 8-10 years old.
Female dogs also go through a messy heat cycle two to three times each year.
Tragically, the most common reason clients request euthanasia is unacceptable
behavior. Unneutered male dogs are often more aggressive, tend to run away and
urine mark in the house. Their tendency to roam also leads to automobile accidents,
dog fights and an increased risk of exposure to contagious diseases.
Keep in mind also that millions of puppies are put to death in the United States each
year because there are not enough homes for them all. Spaying and neutering is the
responsible thing to do.
We recommend spaying (surgical removal of the ovaries and uterus) of female dogs
and castration (surgical removal of the testicles) of males, for all dogs that will not be
used for purebred breeding. This should be done when your animal reaches 6 months
of age. Your animal will be a healthier, happier pet and you will have done your part to
reduce the pet overpopulation problem.
At the Animal Wellness Center, our doctors use laser surgery to further reduce the pain
and side effects associated with surgical procedures. Using a laser surgical unit, rather
than a traditional scalpel blade, results in less pain, less bleeding and less swelling after
surgery. This results in reduced risk of infection, greater precision in surgical procedures
and a quicker return to normal activities.
If you are considering breeding your purebred dog, check with your breeder to be sure
that they are of breeding quality (many beautiful purebred dogs are sold as “pet
quality”, they do not conform to the breed standard and so should not be used to
continue that breed’s gene pool). Consider as well the information on the AKC’s
website about breeding dogs to be sure that you have the time and resources to
provide a good home for a breeding female and her puppies. There are also many
tests that should be done on a purebred dog to determine if it is free from heritable
genetic traits, such as hip dysplasia in Labrador Retrievers and many other breeds. You
can find this information at
http://www.akc.org/contact/answer_center/faq_breeding.cfm
While your pet is anesthetized for surgery, we can also remove any retained baby
teeth, or implant a microchip ID. We also check dogs for laxity of the hip joints, a
reliable indicator of the potential for hip dysplasia.
We will radiograph any
abnormalities that we find in order to start detection of this potentially debilitating
condition.
Updated 01/25/10
HOME DENTAL CARE
Dental homecare is preventative maintenance. It cannot correct a problem
once one has developed. Moreover, if there is a painful condition in the mouth,
brushing will be very unpleasant for the animal and we do not want that.
Therefore, a homecare program should be started after a very thorough oral
evaluation to ensure that there are no problems that need treatment prior to
starting brushing.
The goal with a homecare program is to be brushing your pet’s teeth on a daily
basis to remove plaque before it becomes firmly attached to the tooth surface
and before it mineralizes to become tartar. Plaque will form on a clean tooth
within hours and can start to form tartar within a few days. Therefore brushing
daily will be far more effective than doing it two or three times a week.
When starting a homecare program, it is important to start slowly, letting your
pet get used to each new phase before moving to the next. By introducing the
program in small, easy to accept steps, and by including lots of positive
reinforcement, most pets will come to truly enjoy having their teeth brushed. This
is neither a contest nor a race. Take it as slowly as necessary to avoid upsetting
your pet, because once they decide they do not like what you are doing, it will
take a long time to overcome their fear.
Step 1
When to start? As soon as possible. Eight to 12 weeks old is best. Pets don’t need
maintenance this young, but by brushing daily they will become familiar with the
routine when the permanent teeth erupt. It is a good idea to stop brushing while
your pet is losing its baby teeth as the mouth will be a bit sore and your poking
around with the brush will cause more pain. Once all the permanent teeth are in
you can pick up where you left off.
Step 2
The first step is to work with your pet’s mouth. With a little patience your pet will
soon accept your attention. Make it fun for both of you. Use a lot of love and
especially praise to gain their confidence. Try to have your practice sessions at
the same time each day so your pet gets into a routine. Late in the evening
often works well, as everyone involved is generally in a quiet mood then. If your
pet is highly motivated by food, try just before dinner with the meal acting as a
reward for co-operating.
Updated 01/25/10
Step 3
Start by handling the muzzle and tickling the lips and soon you will be able to rub
the teeth and gums with your finger. Put a small amount of animal toothpaste
that comes in several flavors, from vanilla mint to beef, in the mouth daily. They
will soon look forward to this treat. Do not use human toothpaste.
Step 4
Finally, use a soft toothbrush to brush the teeth. There are several veterinary
brushes available and many human brushes are well suited to animal use as
well. Hold the brush at a 45 degree angle to the tooth and brush back and forth
or from gum to tip. Brushing the tongue side of the teeth is less critical. Start with
the front teeth, work slowly toward the back teeth. Make sure to use the
toothpaste to make it more enticing. Make it a game.
There is an ever growing selection of veterinary dental rinses, pastes and gels.
Your veterinarian can help you select the one best suited to your situation. These
products all increase the effectiveness of your home-care program but
remember, it’s the brushing that does most of the cleaning. Brushing daily has
been shown to be far more effective than three times a week and is easier to
remember than every other day. Human toothpaste is to be avoided as it will
cause stomach upset if swallowed. Baking soda, with its very high sodium
content can be dangerous to older patients. Hydrogen peroxide can be too
harsh for the gums and must not be swallowed. It helps to give mildly abrasive
foods and toys such as dry kibble, rawhide strips and dense rubber chew-toys.
The Veterinary Oral Health Council has taken steps to certify products that make
claims of providing some dental benefit. The list of approved products is
available at http://www.vohc.org/accepted_products.htm.
Please discuss
more specific recommendations with your veterinarian. Avoid natural bones,
dried cow hooves and hard nylon toys as these are hard enough to fracture
teeth.
By following a consistent program of home-care, you will greatly improve your
pet’s dental health. This will mean fewer professional cleanings, less tooth loss
and a happier, healthier pet. However, please remember that there is no
substitute for professional veterinary care. We must work as a team to ensure a
long and happy life for your pet.
Updated 01/25/10
MICROCHIP
Do you love your pet? Would you want your pet returned if they were lost or
stolen? Then you need a microchip! 10 million pets get lost every year. Without
ID, 90% don’t return home. Over 94% of pets microchipped with HomeAgain
have been reunited with their families
Every day we receive calls about lost pets. Now we can help. Our hospital can
safely and permanently identify your dog, cat or bird. A simple injection of a tiny
microchip (about the size of a grain of rice) under the skin gives your pet A
LIFETIME OF PROTECTION. Local animal shelters and clinics check stray animals
for this device. It could save your pet’s life.
HomeAgain microchips connect you and your pet to a comprehensive pet
recovery service, helping to keep your pet safe and giving you peace of mind.
As your pet protection and safety resource, HomeAgain offers you a suite of
services that includes:
Advanced Pet Recovery. Should your pet become lost, the HomeAgain
microchip helps ensure their safe return. HomeAgain will send out a lost pet
alert to vet clinics and shelters when your pet is lost and allows for immediate
access to the pet’s medical information to facilitate the best care possible
when they are found.
Emergency Pet Center. Gain 24-hour access to their on-call veterinarian
who can offer medical assistance or connect you to an emergency vet.
Lost Pet Medical Insurance. This policy will cover up to $3,000.00 (less a
$50.00 deductible) to cover any medical bills for injuries your pet suffers while
lost.
For more information, please see the
HomeAgain web site at
http://www.homeagainid.com/index.cfm
Updated 01/25/10
THINGS WE CAN LEARN FROM A
DOG
Never pass up the opportunity to go for a joyride.
Allow the experience of fresh air and the wind in your face to be pure
ecstasy.
When loved ones come home, always run to greet them.
When it’s in your best interest, practice obedience.
Let others know when they’ve invaded your territory.
Take naps and stretch before rising.
If what you want lies buried, dig until you find it.
When someone is having a bad day, be silent, sit close by and nuzzle them
gently.
Avoid biting when a simple growl will do.
On hot days, drink lots of water and lay under a shady tree.
When you’re happy, dance around and wag your
entire body.
No matter how often you’re scolded, don’t
pout...run right back and make friends.
Thrive on attention.
Delight in the simple joy of a long walk.
Run, romp and play daily.
Eat with gusto and enthusiasm.
Be loyal.
Never pretend to be something you’re not.
Updated 01/25/10
HOME CHECKLIST FOR PET HEALTH
Please use this checklist on a regular basis. You can discover many problems before
they become serious and cause undue pain and expense.
My Pet . . .
. . . is acting normally - active and in good spirits.
. . . has a normal appetite with no chewing or swallowing difficulty.
. . . breathes normally, without straining or coughing.
. . . urinates in the usual amounts and frequency.
. . . has normal appearing bowel movements.
. . . walks and jumps without stiffness, pain, or difficulty.
. . . has healthy looking feet and short nails.
. . . has a full, glossy coat in good condition.
. . . has skin that is free from dry flakes and not greasy.
. . . is free from fleas, ticks, lice or mites.
. . . has eyes that are bright, clear and free of matter.
. . . has ears that are clean and free of debris and
odor.
. . . has a nose free from discharge.
. . . has clean, white teeth free of plaque and calculus.
. . . have gums that are their normal color with no redness and non-offensive breath
odor.
. . . has a body that is free from lumps/bumps as I run my hand over its entire body.
Call us if you answer NO to any question.
Updated 01/25/10
IS SOMEONE IN YOUR HOUSEHOLD
ALLERGIC TO YOUR PET?
When you are near your pet
• Do you itch or get hives? • Do you get puffy or itchy red eyes? • Do you
frequently rub your eyes or nose? • Do you get a stuffy nose? • Do you have a
watery nasal discharge? • Do you have shortness of breath? • Do you find it
difficult to breathe deeply? • Do you wheeze and sneeze? These are just a few
of the many allergic reactions that can be triggered by exposure to the
allergens of furred or feathered pets.
Allergies Can Be Heartbreaking
Allergy is the most widespread chronic condition in the world and sensitivities to
animals are some of the most frequently seen allergies. With 6 to 8 percent of
the population allergic to pets, the United States alone has between 15 and 20
million people who are adversely affected.
Being allergic doesn’t necessarily mean you can’t have a pet or that you must
give up the one you already have. Learning more about minimizing pet-related
allergies and making some minor adjustments to your environment will frequently
solve your problem.
Most allergy patients are first handled by family
physicians or pediatricians who will recommend an
allergist if it is felt necessary. In choosing a doctor to
treat your allergy, look for someone who will be sensitive
to your feelings and will try to do everything possible to
help you keep your pet. Giving your pet up for
adoption should be your last resort.
Please talk to your doctor if someone in your
household has a pet allergy.
Updated 12/11/07
TRAVELING WITH YOUR PET
Traveling with pets can be traumatic for all concerned, especially if preparations
are not made beforehand. Here are a few suggestions for a safe and
comfortable journey.
If you are flying with your pet . . . contact the airline and us ahead of time.
The airlines have special rules and regulations for pets and you may need health
papers filled out ahead of time. If you are traveling or moving overseas, contact
us at least 6 months ahead. The paperwork involved can be time consuming
and require visits for testing to satisfy import requirements. The embassy in the
country you are flying to may be very helpful in sorting out what is needed and
when.
If you are crossing state lines . . . whether you are traveling by air or car,
you may need a health certificate from us filled out within 10 days of your trip.
Health certificates are required by law to help prevent the spread of rabies and
other diseases from state to state. Different states have different rules about the
frequency of rabies vaccine administration, so your pet may need a
vaccination before you leave. You should also carry a copy of your pet’s rabies
certificate with you. Without these papers, if you are stopped by police during
your trip, you can be fined and your animal quarantined for 10 to 14 days at
your expense.
Be sure your pet is wearing a collar with ID tags while traveling, in case
he or she gets lost. An extra tag with the name and phone number of a friend or
relative is also a good idea - remember, you won’t be home to take the call if
your pet is found again. Consider having your pet microchipped for permanent
identification.
Always leash your pet when he is not in the car. Do not let your dog become
a pest or a hazard at gas stations or rest stops. Unless you are on private
property and have permission
to let your dog run loose, leash
him at all times. Keep your
dog leashed at motels and
campgrounds as well.
Take along plastic bags to
clean up messes, and
some towels in case your pet
has an accident in the car.
Also bring your pet’s bowls
and its own supply of regular
Updated 12/11/07
food and drinking water. Sudden changes of food and water, coupled with the
stress of traveling, frequently lead to diarrhea. Pack a few favorite toys and a
brush as well.
A crate is the best investment you can make for safe traveling. Ask us
how to accustom your pet to the crate ahead of time if your pet hasn’t used
one before. If you have recently acquired a puppy and plan to travel later on,
now is the time to introduce traveling in a crate! In a crate, your pet can relax
and nap without being a nuisance and he will be more protected in case of an
accident.
Be sure your pet’s crate is big enough for him to stand up, turn around and lay
stretched out comfortably. Keeping your dog confined to a tiny cage for hours
on end is cruel. Bed the cage with towels so your pet isn’t sliding around on
bare plastic. Your pet will need to get out and stretch his legs occasionally every 3-4 hours. Be sure the leash is on before you open the car door!
Never leave your pet unattended in the car. Heat and cold can quickly kill
an animal left alone. Don’t park in direct sunlight. If you are traveling in the
summer and your car is not air conditioned, think twice before taking your pet
along. Health problems or fear of strangers and unfamiliar things may also be a
reason to leave your pet at home. Pug nosed breeds such as Pekingese, Chow
Chows, and Boston terriers are especially prone to heat stroke and suffocation
while traveling.
It’s best to feed your pet lightly, or not at all, before traveling. Feed your pet
once you arrive at your destination or stop for the night. It’s better to eat lightly
for a day or two than to spend the trip carsick!
Your pet may need vaccines or medications at your destination that he
doesn’t need at home. For instance, fleas and heartworms are year round
problems in the south, not just in the summer. If you will be hiking in the woods
with your dog you may need a Lyme disease vaccination. Some pets also
require sedatives or anti-nausea medications to travel comfortably. Check with
us well ahead of time about these requirements.
Any more questions about traveling with your pets? Call us!
Updated 12/11/07
HELP YOUR PETS BE COOL IN
SUMMER
It’s great to enjoy summer with your pet. But it’s also the time when they have
the greatest risk of injury and heat-related health problems. So here are some
tips on keeping things cool this summer.
Watch for signs of heatstroke. Rapid panting, hot skin, twitching muscles or
a dazed look are all danger signs. Wrap them in a towel soaked with cool, not
cold, water. In severe cases, place them in the bathtub or cool them with a
garden hose. Heatstroke can be fatal. See us as soon as possible.
Never leave your pet in a parked car. Not even if you crack the windows
or park in the shade. On a 70° day, the car temperature can rise above 150° in
minutes. It’s extremely dangerous and the number one cause of heatstroke.
Keep vaccinations up-to-date. This is the time when most pets come in
contact with other animals at parks, campgrounds etc.
Always provide plenty of fresh water. Dogs can only sweat through the
pads of their feet and by panting. Evaporation from the wet surfaces of their
mouth and nose helps lower body temperature.
Stop external parasites before they bite. Fleas, ticks and ear mites thrive in
warm, humid environments. See us for a preventive program.
Also avoid internal parasites. Be sure your dog has been heartworm tested
and is on a preventive.
Watch for hot pavement. Sensitive paws burn easily.
Find a cool spot. For indoor pets, keep the air circulating with a childproof fan
or air conditioner. Provide shade for outdoor pets.
The streets aren’t safe. Don’t let your pet roam. Just in case - make sure your
pet is licensed and has a microchip or other permanent identification. We see
many more fight injuries and bite wounds in summer. And, of course, your pet is
no match for a car.
The yard isn’t always safe, either. Be cautious of pesticides and herbicides.
Read the precautions for lawn chemicals carefully and keep pets away from
newly treated yards. If pets come in contact with chemicals, wash their feet,
abdomen and chest thoroughly and then contact us.
Brush often. Frequent brushing provides early warning of parasites and skin
infections by lifting the coat, permitting a view of the skin below.
Updated 12/11/07
It’s allergy season. People sneeze. Pets scratch. Common pet allergies
include pollen, grass and weeds. If your pet scratches excessively or chews at its
paws, bring it in for an exam. We can design a program to help.
Watch the exercise and diet. Don’t encourage exercise during the hottest
part of the day. Let them eat less, overeating can lead to overheating.
Sunburn is no day at the beach. It hurts. Shorthaired pets and those with
pink skin and white hair are especially susceptible. Pets are also susceptible to
skin cancer from overexposure. Limit their UV exposure and consider sunblock.
Updated 12/11/07
WINTER SAFETY
It is time to deck the halls with boughs of holly, sprigs of mistletoe, bright poinsettias, glittery tinsel,
strings of flashing lights, and for the lighting of candles. It makes a pretty picture - but did you
know that every one of those items could be hazardous to your pets?
Holiday decorations are attention getters, and because they are different and exciting, they
also attract the attention of your pets. What cat can resist batting a glittery glass ball around?
What dog can resist snooping under the tree? What bird could resist the temptation to swoop
across the room, land in the upper branches, and tug at a strand of tinsel?
Use common sense when decorating your tree. Keep breakable ornaments high up, where a
careless nose or tail can’t knock them off to shatter into paw slicing splinters of glass. Put smaller,
easily swallowed ornaments on higher branches too. Don’t decorate your tree with food items,
such as cranberry and popcorn strings or baskets of candy; such goodies are bound to attract
the attention of dogs and birds! Don’t leave burning candles unattended.
Provide outdoor dogs or cats with a dry, insulated pet house or shelter out of the wind. Staying
warm demands extra calories, so feed your pet accordingly when temperatures drop. Bring your
pet inside if the wind chill or other weather conditions become severe.
Remove ice, salt and caked mud from your pet’s paws and coat at once. Contact your
veterinarian immediately if you suspect your pet has frostbite. Frostbitten skin may turn reddish,
white or gray and it may be scaly or sloughing.
Pets like the smell and taste of antifreeze, but even a small amount can kill them. Thoroughly
clean up spills at once. Tightly close containers and store them where pets cannot get them.
Keep your pet on its regular diet. Holiday treats such as chocolate and bones can be toxic or
harmful.
Many plants are toxic to pets including Christmas rose, holly, mistletoe, English ivy, philodendron
and dieffenbachia. Keep them out of your pet’s reach.
Show your pets how much you care by sharing a safe holiday with them. Your pet’s good health
will give you a reason to celebrate all year long!
Updated 12/11/07
WHAT’S NEXT?
Congratulations! Your puppy has completed his or her vaccination series and wellpuppy exams. We hope that your pet is well on its way to a long and happy life as a
member of your family. To keep your puppy healthy for a lifetime will require on-going
care. The following list should help you to understand what health care needs your pet
will have in the years to come.

Your puppy has received vaccinations that provide protection against the diseases
he or she is currently exposed. Booster vaccinations are needed to keep his level
of immunity to protect him from illness. You will receive reminders in the mail (or via
e-mail if you request) when his vaccinations are due. The distemper is boostered at
one year of age and is protective for three years thereafter. The rabies is boostered
at one year of age and is protective for 2 years thereafter in Minnesota (this may
vary from city to city), Lyme and Leptospirosis vaccinations are protective for one
year, and Bordetella for six months to one year.

Your pet should also receive an annual physical examination. By the time we see
your pet again next year he will have grown through the equivalent of his teenage
years and will be a young adult. Because a pet’s lifespan is compressed into a
shorter amount of time than that of a human, many changes can occur in your
pet’s body in the course of a year. The annual physical exam is very important to
detect physical problems before they become serious. Once your pet reaches the
age of seven to nine years a physical exam should be done every six months and
additional blood and urine testing may be recommended to detect the onset of
age-related illnesses.

Every year, you will receive a reminder card in the mail for your pet's annual
heartworm test, metabolic blood profile and stool test for intestinal parasites.
Annual testing is necessary before refilling your dog's heartworm and parasite
preventative medication. Remember, heartworm is a deadly parasite which is
easily prevented with a monthly medication.

We will also be asking you to bring in a sample of
your dog’s stool each year to test for intestinal
parasites which may have been picked up over the
course of the year. We need about 1 teaspoon of
Updated 12/11/07
feces. A fresh sample will keep about 12 hours if refrigerated, but not frozen.

Your puppy should be fed a puppy food until he or she is about 12 months old. Then
switch gradually to an adult food by mixing the old and new foods together for
about two weeks. This helps avoid intestinal upset from changing foods. Your pet
will have a longer, healthier life on a good quality diet such as Royal Canin, Hill’s,
Eukanuba or Iams. Dry food is better for the prevention of dental disease. Too many
treats and snacks lead to fussy eating habits, obesity and digestive upsets. Give
your pet praise and affection for rewards, not food! He’ll love you just as much.

Spay or neuter your pet at six months of age. Altered pets live longer, are healthier
in their old age, have fewer behavior problems and don’t contribute to the pet
overpopulation problem.

If you haven’t yet begun an obedience program with your pet, now is a good time
to start. Pets that are well trained are much nicer to have around. You can train
your pet yourself if you have some training experience but we highly recommend a
professional trainer. Obedience classes are a lot of fun and you’ll learn many
helpful tips for making the most out of your relationship with your pet.

Your puppy will soon have a full set of adult teeth. Good dental care is essential to
your pet’s well being. Regular brushing will slow plaque and tartar build-up as your
dog gets older. This does not take the place of professional cleanings. We will
recommend that as necessary, determined by the veterinarian on physical
examination. A dog that gets good dental care throughout its life will live longer
than one that doesn’t. He will also have fresher breath, less pain from periodontal
disease and be healthier and more energetic.

Please call us with any questions or problems with your pet. Most medical problems
are less costly to your pet’s well being and to your pocketbook if they are dealt
with early.

The same is true of behavioral problems. The earlier you contact us or your trainer
regarding a problem behavior, the sooner you can solve it. Behaviors such as
barking, digging, running away, chewing, and over-aggression can almost always
be changed but you have to ask for help.

Enjoy! Your puppy’s boundless joy, love and energy are a precious thing to have.
Updated 12/11/07

puppy notebook - Animal Wellness Center of Maple Grove

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