may 2013 issue 04
Transcription
may 2013 issue 04
ISSUE 04 ORGANISED BY: MAY 2013 SUMMARY MAY 2013 03 EDITORIAL THE NEWS MOMAD METOPOLIS 04 BRANDS TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY FASHION The Spanish fashion industry discovers new directions with brands founded in the present century. 07 RETAIL TRADE IN SEARCH OF NEW CUSTOMERS In spite of the fact that the multi-brand retail trade has lost some of its market share, some establishments are growing in the midst of the crisis. 10 INTERVIEW FRANCESCO MALATESTA The Director of fashion trade shows at Ifema reveals the key aspects regarding the new event known as Momad Metropolis. 13 WHAT MOMAD METROPOLIS WILL BE Discover the layout of IFEMA's new multicategories fashion trade show. 2 EDITORIAL THE NEW MOMAD METROPOLIS We have decided to devote the whole of this new issue of MOMAD MAGAZINE to MOMAD METROPOLIS, IFEMA's new multicategories fashion trade show, which is the result of combining the exhibitions known as SIMM and MODACALZADO+IBERPIEL, the two grand trade events in Spain devoted to clothing, footwear and accessories. We believe that now that this new project has been designed and its most important initiatives have been outlined, this is an opportune moment in which to provide you with further information regarding the new trade show. In effect, this magazine serves as the ideal calling card in this respect, even though it entails a small change regarding its habitual format. Thus, on this occasion, the cover features an image of this edition of MOMAD METROPOLIS, one that synthesises the trade show's new concept and approach. Furthermore, the interview on this occasion is with Francesco Malatesta, the Director of MOMAD METROPOLIS, who explains and outlines all of the key characteristics of the new event. We also provide a brief analysis of the current situation within the fashion industry and trade in Spain, both of which will be served by the new trade show. As a whole, the trade show will present an entirely renewed, evolved and up-to-date approach. This comprehensive universe of fashion will be organised around a new structure in which different styles and different moments of use will be the factors that determine the layout of the various sections of the exhibition. In this respect, MOMAD METROPOLIS is destined to become the grand meeting-point for the industry, one where professionals can make the very most of their visit by discovering all of the fashion items, footwear and accessories they require for their shops under the same roof. Welcome to Momad Metropolis, the new Metropolis of Fashion!! MOMAD MAGAZINE CONTACT: [email protected] PUBLISHED BY: Ripley Gestora de Contenidos // CIF: B 62014204 // Pelayo, 12, 1º 1ª, 08001 – BCN DESIGN AND LAYOUT: Talking Design Studio // Amigó 47, entlo. 3a, 08021- Barcelona Further information: www.ifema.es 3 BRANDS TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY FASHION THE SPANISH FASHION INDUSTRY DISCOVERS NEW DIRECTIONS The worldwide fashion industry is constantly changing and evolving, based on the dictates of the latest trends and new consumer habits. Whilst demand remains weak in certain countries, in other markets traditional brands have discovered new channels for growth. At the same time, when certain firms disappear, new labels emerge that are capable of seducing new groups of consumers. Spain's industry plays a leading role within this highly competitive field. Thus, a number of unique Spanish brands of considerable character are currently prospering in the midst of the crisis, both at home and abroad. In the majority of cases, they do not compete on the basis of price, but have created themselves a niche on the international market due to their high levels of creativity, their quality 4 and the manner in which they interpret the latest trends. In business terms, these brands tend to consist of young Spanish firms of considerable potential or traditional brands that have modernised by updating their appeal, effectively adapting their products to the times. Hundreds of Spanish brands enjoy this profile, catering perfectly for the tastes of the twenty-first century consumer. Founded in 2004, El Ganso is just one Spanish success story that has emerged in recent years, along with Rebeca Sanver, a company that relies on a strong industrial tradition and has even managed to expand in China (amongst more than 60 different countries) whilst producing all of its items in Spain. For its part, Lavand, a company founded in 2008, has based its expansion essentially on the multi-brand network, effectively encompassing more than thirty different countries. Another success story is known as Scalpers, which was founded back in 2007 and focuses on men's fashion. Just six years after this company was set up, it has achieved a turnover figure of some 10 million euros. For its part, Almatrichi is present at more than 1,400 multi-brand points of sale in countries throughout the world, ranging from Panama to Russia. Meanwhile, Smash now sells its products in nearly 70 different countries, whilst Piel de Toro has opened more than 20 shops since 2011. 5 Lavand. Scalpers. Smash. Piel de Toro. 6 RETAIL TRADE IN SEARCH OF NEW CUSTOMERS IN SPITE OF THE CRISIS, NEW-GENERATION MULTI-BRAND ESTABLISHMENTS ARE INCREASING THEIR SHARE OF THE MARKET The traditional multi-brand retail trade has lost some of its market share in recent years. The consumer crisis, combined with a climactic period in terms of family succession (a good part of the independent retail trade in Spain was founded back in the 1960's and 1970's) and the rise of large retail chains have all had a strong impact on the multi-brand fashion sector, which also faces challenges such as new technologies, financial restrictions, rising taxes and new consumer demands. However, the crisis has also been seen as a moment of opportunity for many businessmen who, in the midst of a difficult economic climate, 7 A new and different appeal, interior design and customer service are just some of the strong-points of the multi-brand establishments that are gaining ground within the context of the current economic crisis have promoted significant innovations in terms of their shop concepts, their range of products and the ways in which they connect with consumers. Establishments of strong tradition, such as Santa Eulalia, a brand that has won the loyalty of a growing number of consumers in Barcelona through differentiation and customer service, are complemented by firms that have been founded this century, such as the brand from Madrid, NAC. This label, which was set up in the year 2000, has managed to create a new fashion and lifestyle concept. Yube and Renatta and Go, also located in Madrid, together with La Comercial and The Outpost in Barcelona, or VM The Shop in Valencia, also provide good examples of shops that have managed to turn their products and services into a brand that is recognised and valued by their consumers. In all cases, these establishments are based on modern and different approaches that offer a value-added dimension founded on product selection, interior design, personalised attention and a unique and special DNA, one that is far removed from that of the large fashion retail chains. 8 One of the shops owned by the Madrid brand, NAC Inside the shop, Yube, in Madrid. Renatta & Go, located in Madrid. Inside La Comercial in Barcelona. 9 FRANCESCO MALATESTA DIRECTOR OF MOMAD TRADE SHOWS The Director of Momad trade shows, Francesco Malatesta, began his career within the fashion industry back in the nineteen-eighties in London. He has held different positions at companies such as GFT Ibérica, Loewe and Coronel Tapiocca. After joining Ifema at the end of 2011, he has headed the integration process for the trade shows known as SIMM and MODACALZADO+Iberpiel, effectively creating the new event known as Momad Metropolis. In this interview he highlights the key aspects of this new trade show. 10 WHY DID YOU CHOOSE THE the expectations of all the industry's the globalised and standardised products NAME "MOMAD METROPOLIS"? representatives and players, including of the big fashion chains. Although the In order to understand the reasons behind associations, exhibitors and brands, the independent multi-brand sector is in a this name, I think it is important to differen- press, professional fashion experts and vi- weaker position, it now has an oppor- tiate between two things. On the one hand siting buyers. All of these members of the tunity to expand and evolve and redis- we have the umbrella brand, MOMAD, industry were calling for a more important cover growth in the future. The industry and on the other, METROPOLIS. In the and more striking event, one that would is constantly readjusting and, perhaps case of MOMAD, we have had a number meet a number of requirements today: a because the big retail chains have beco- of trade shows up until now on the IFEMA single trade show and a single trip, but me so dominant, we are now witnessing events calendar that target specific sectors based on a new and different approach, a market trend towards a slower type of within the fashion industry, but it was ne- one that adapts perfectly to new consumer demand. This undoubtedly offers oppor- cessary to bring all of these fashion-related habits. Consumer habits have changed, tunities to the multi-brand sector, along events together under an umbrella brand. together with the retail and multi-brand with companies who are able to offer This is how "Momad - Fashion Events in environments that cater for them, in which something different or direct their fashion Madrid" was born, a brand designed to respect it is essential to present a trade ideas towards different consumer groups unify all of IFEMA's fashion trade shows. show that reflects the changes that the (large sizes, tailoring, personalisation of We have used this brand in order to unify independent market has made in order basic clothing items, etc). If the indepen- web sites, resources and tools. As far as to define its differential appeal. It is very dent multi-brand establishment seeks to METROPOLIS is concerned, this new trade clear that small, monographic events are compete on the basis of price and location show has emerged from the integration no longer valid. What is more, the idea alone, it is fighting a lost battle. The way of SIMM and Modacalzado+Iberpiel, of purchasing shoes first and clothing af- forward points in a different direction, na- and we have used different internatio- terwards has become a thing of the past. mely that of catering for a more personal nal trade shows that successfully reflect It is also very important for visiting buyers type of fashion. market demands today as our point of to be able to make the very most of their reference. METROPOLIS is the name of trip and their time, especially if we wish to HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE THE the emblematic building located in Gran attract professionals from other countries. CURRENT SITUATION WITHIN THE SPANISH MARKET? Via in Madrid, an architectural jewel that is very much in line with the idea of in- IN VIEW OF THE IMPACT OF We are passing through a difficult pe- ternational fashion and that reflects the LARGE RETAILERS AND THE riod. Any trade show finds its main market appeal of a great city such as Madrid, CONTRACTION OF CONSU- within the country where it is located and, with its cosmopolitan ambience ... MER DEMAND, HOW WOULD right now, the Spanish market faces an YOU GAUGE THE HEALTH OF adverse climate, one in which it is difficult WHAT ARE YOU TRYING TO FASHION BRANDS AND THE to secure purchases and it is difficult to get ACHIEVE BY COMBINING SIMM MULTI-BRAND RETAIL TRADE? paid. However, it is also true that, within AND MODACALZADO? IS THIS Both are in the midst of transformation. this general context, some retailers are UNION BASED ON A NEW The impact of large retailers has been so highly active and are strengthening their DYNAMIC WITHIN THE great that they have effectively taken over appeal with new concepts. And in the INDUSTRY? a large part of the market, leading to a same way in which there are shops that The objective of MOMAD METRO- certain decline within the independent have survived and are prospering today, POLIS, the result of combining the multi-brand sector. However, at the same certain companies are also doing well. exhibitions known as SIMM and time we have observed a growing interest Our products not only appeal to the local MODACALZADO+IBERPIEL, is to crea- on the part of consumers to find a range of market, but also to foreign buyers who te a trade show that caters for current products that is more personalised, more are looking for something different that demands within the industry and meets defined and more unique, going against they cannot find elsewhere: many of the 11 products that they are looking for can only needs. There are too many trade shows be difficult to make it visible. Our identity be found here. In this respect, I believe that have a carefully designed image, is essentially Latin, based on our cultural that if we can promote the appeal of a but do not develop business initiatives environment, and because we present a grand fashion event such as MOMAD or integrate their ideas with regard to geographic proximity and an aesthetic METROPOLIS, we can attract the interest actual demand within the industry. I can affinity in consumer terms with Portugal, of both local buyers and buyers from fur- also tell you that this unique ambience France and Italy. Latin America is also ther afield, including professionals from will also be enlivened by attractive ac- important because we are beginning to South America, Asia, Russia, the Middle tivities, exhibitions and conferences for make inroads on that continent and we East ... This is where we are focusing all buyers and that there will be a specific are beginning to attract Latin American our efforts. area for pre-arranged meetings between exhibitors, based on shared ties in terms foreign buyers and companies that have of language, culture, tastes ... IN ADDITION TO COMBINING an export capacity. We must not overlook TWO EXHIBITIONS, HAS THE the fact that the image of an event must WHAT FEEDBACK HAVE YOU TRADE SHOW EVOLVED IN ANY reflect its DNA. If the trade show is built HAD ON THE PART OF BRANDS OTHER WAY? up little by little through the contributions AND EXHIBITORS IN RELATION Of course, MOMAD METROPOLIS goes of its companies, through its activities and TO THIS NEW INITIATIVE? way beyond the mere fusion of two trade through the visitors who attend the event, Before undertaking the new project known shows. It will present a larger space, but and not in accordance with the tastes or as MOMAD METROPOLIS, we decided also a different trade shows in terms of vision of an individual, it will be authentic to investigate exactly what the market was ambience, image and format. The most and it will evolve, developing with the looking for and to base the trade show important change will consist of the re- same dynamic as the industry itself. on our findings. We have proceeded in a grouping of products and the layout of manner contrary to the habitual approach, the exhibition, which will not be based DID YOU USE ANY INTERNA- but we have received strong support from on type of products, but on style, moment TIONAL POINT OF REFERENCE different sectors and advisory committees of use and purchase opportunity. In this WHEN DESIGNING THE NEW and each time we have designed a plan sense, the products will be grouped to- TRADE SHOW? and a strategy there have been nothing gether exactly how customers would like Yes. In the same way as companies, but positive reactions. The new trade show to see them, in the same way as they brands, chains and shops themselves seek has been warmly welcomed and mem- are presented by certain establishments inspiration in others, we have effectively bers of the industry have informed us that to the public and the way they are seen observed the development of certain tra- it corresponds to their needs. Whatever within the marketplace. In general, bu- de shows in other countries. We have the case may be, the creation of the MO- yers are not defined according to type not based our design on any particular MAD brand and the trade show known of products, but in accordance with style, model, but we have studied what we can as MOMAD METROPOLIS are merely the level of quality or product and moment learn from other trade shows that have first steps as part of a new strategy for the of use. It is important to reproduce this successfully transformed their approach, future. This strategy aims to integrate other model at trade shows. adapting these lessons to our own event. events that present a sense of synergy WILL THE TRADE SHOW ALSO THE TRADE SHOW WILL PRO- consumer profiles, as well as seeking to UNDERGO AN AESTHETIC MOTE THE LATIN DIMENSION strengthen and develop new concepts and TRANSFORMATION? OF ITS EXHIBITION. WHY? ideas for the trade show itself. Once we In effect, MOMAD METROPOLIS will When it comes to defining a trade show, it have consolidated the current changes offer a new and unique decorative am- is extremely important to establish its sense over a couple of editions of MOMAD bience, but one that never loses sight of of identity. If a service, product or event METROPOLIS, we shall proceed towards the objective of meeting the industry's does not have a very clear identity, it will the integration of other sectors. in terms of their exhibition and shared 12 WHAT MOMAD METROPOLIS WILL BE LIKE Ifema's new multicategories fashion event will feature a which will enhance the sense of synergy and facilitate larger area than that occupied by the trade show SIMM the circulation of members of the trade. Furthermore, and MODACALZADO+IBERPIEL when staged separately. the fair will feature a new exhibition layout based on In this respect, Halls 12 and 14, which make up the three wide-ranging sections: METRO, which will offer the DC Area at Feria de Madrid, will now be joined by latest in urban fashion; COSMO, featuring contemporary Hall 4. The three halls will be interconnected and will fashion firms; and READY, which will focus on immediate feature a unique decorative setting for the exterior area, delivery fashion and the most youthful streetwear ideas. 5 TRADE FAIR MAP AND FAIR SECTORS MAP COSMO FAIR Sectors For SECTOR LAYOUT Mid-range and high-end contemporary fashion Spring-Summer 2014 Collection COSMO EVENT Cocktail wear, evening-wear and ceremonial attire North Entrance North Convention and Congress Centre COSMO KIDS Children's fashion COSMO CASUAL Casual, urban, practical and wellness & comfort fashion CONTEMPORARY COSMO Innovative collections that retain a traditional style METRO READY Avant - garde, sophisticated and cutting-edge fashion Spring-Summer 2014 Collection 9 8 5 6 3 4 1 Avant - garde urban and youth fashion for the mid-range and lower-mid-range segments Presentation of collections and immediate service 6 10 7 14 2 South Entrance 12 South Convention and Congress Centre Cosmo Casual Cosmo Kids 14 Ready 4 Contemporary Cosmo 2 Cosmo Event Metro Entrance Terrace - Bar Taxi Activities 12 Mezzanine Pab 12-14 BACK TO INDEX 13 ORGANISED BY: