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eatdrink
Serving London, Stratford & Area
FREE!
RESTAURANTS • RECIPES • WINE • TRAVEL
A Passion
for Cooking
The Fairy Tale
Behind Woolfy’s
eatdrinkmag.net
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Issue Three • October 2007
Mark Kitching
of Waldo’s on
King in London
what’s
cooking
upstairs
Think you know us?
We may surprise you.
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Cooking classes include tasting portions and
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of classes are designed for both novice and experienced cooks. There’s plenty for kids too. Book early as
classes are filled on a first come, first served basis.
Private classes for groups of 12 or more can also
be arranged.
Register by phone 9am-5pm Mon-Sat
at (Loblaws) 1-800-296-2332 Ext. 3
or (Superstore) 1-866-596-7277 Ext. 3
For further information check the websites
or call the co-ordinator for your location:
FANSHAWE Rebecca McIntosh at 519-673-5326
WONDERLAND Maya Clarke at 519-668-7440
OXFORD Mies Bervoets at 519-434-2070
OAKRIDGE Christine Scheer at 519-641-0932
STRATHROY Barbara Toomer at 519-245-4198
www.loblaws.ca
FANSHAWE
WONDERLAND
1740 Richmond St N 3040 Wonderland Rd S
upstairs
at superstore
www.superstore.ca
OXFORD
825 Oxford Street East
OAKRIDGE
1201 Oxford Street
STRATHROY
626 Victoria Street
CONTENTS
NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHER
5
Like a Herd of Turtles
The magazine is off to a great start, but it hasn’t always been graceful.
By Chris McDonell
RESTAURANT PROFILE
6
What’s Luck Got to Do with It?
Fairy tale and real life merge at Woolfy’s at Wildwood in St. Marys.
By Cecilia Buy
BOOKS
11
Feeding the Heart of the Home
A review of Lucy’s Kitchen: Signature Recipes and Culinary Secrets.
By Jennifer Gagel
WINE
14
Is Wine a Superfood?
A look at SuperFood Rx: Fourteen Foods that Will Change Your Life. Where does wine fit in?
By Shari Darling
CHEFS
18
Passion for Perfection
Mark Kitching balances his roles as owner and chef at Waldo’s on King in London.
By Melanie North
EATDRINKBUZZ
24
New & Notable
Chefs, restaurants, culinary trends and notable hot spots. Catch the buzz!
By Bryan Lavery
BEER
34
Autumn Leaves, Fest Beers & Long Dark Lagers
It’s time to go to the dark side, Luke!
By The Malt Monk
SEASONAL RECIPES
38
Our Gardens’ Last Hurrah
Recipes for a whole meal of seasonal delights. Ratatouille, anyone?
By Christine Scheer
TRAVEL
40
Carnival in Lemoux
A centuries-old method of invoking a bountiful harvest creates magic in the streets.
By Ann McColl Lindsay
MIXOLOGY
45
The Fallen Angel
Is there a reason why women prefer this drink? Maybe it’s the name.
From Robinson Hall Bar & Grill
THE LIGHTER SIDE
46
Small Talk: Dining With Children
Start ’em young, teach some manners and Be Prepared!
By Cecilia Buy
eatdrink
™
RESTAURANTS • RECIPES • WINE • TRAVEL
eatdrinkmag.net
A Food & Drink Magazine Serving London, Stratford & Area
™
» Register for the free digital edition to be delivered monthly
— more recipes, photos, stories and links.
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Publisher & Advertising Manager
Chris McDonell
[email protected]
Office Manager
Cecilia Buy
Telephone & Fax
519 434-8349
Mailing Address
525 Huron Street,
London ON N5y 4J6
News & Feedback
[email protected]
Contributors
Bryan Lavery
Melanie North
Shari Darling
Cecilia Buy
Christine Scheer
D.R. Hammond
Jennifer Gagel
Ann McColl Lindsay
Editorial Advisory Board
Bryan Lavery
Chris McDonald
Cathy Rehberg
Copy Editor
Melanie North
Graphic Design
Hawkline Graphics
[email protected]
Website
Milan Kovar/KOVNET
Printing
Impressions Printing
St. Thomas ON
Cover Image
Chris and Mary Woolf wave a welcoming flag outside their
restaurant Woolfy’s at Wildwood, St. Marys. The Woolfy’s logo
is by Scott McKowen, a highly regarded local graphic designer.
Copyright © 2007 eatdrink™, Hawkline Graphics and the writers. All rights reserved.
Reproduction or duplication of any material published in
eatdrink™ or on eatdrinkmag.net™ is strictly prohibited
without the written permission of the Publisher. eatdrink™ has
a circulation of 10,000 issues published monthly. The views or
opinions expressed in the information, content and/or
advertisements published in eatdrink™ are solely those of the
author(s) and do not necessarily represent those of the
Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but accepts no
responsibility for unsolicited material.
october 2007 • issue three
always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net
5
NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHER
Like a Herd of Turtles
By Chris McDonell
e’re off!” my father would enthusiastically announce. Pause. A resigned voice: “... like a herd of
turtles.” For, as a rule, the seven McDonell
children would be scrambling to get out
the door on time, whether it was for
school, church, work, or
even heading off on vacation. In the car, someone’s
head invariably out the window to dry wet hair, tying
our shoelaces without the
elbow room to even see
what we were doing, someone panicking because of a forgotten barrette or necktie, we were, in transit, chaos
personified.
For those who argue the nature/nurture
argument, my parents were (and remain)
the people who allow for traffic, train crossings and inclement weather and arrive at
events on time, who get a good parking
spot and who are never “fashionably late.”
Despite the fine example they set, their
offspring are notoriously incompetent at
timely arrivals and departures. Partings
are generally fraught with half-hour “doorknob” conversations, because you just
can’t stop visiting even after saying goodbye, and more chat through the open car
window after leaving and buckling up.
(Much to the chagrin of the good people
we’re partnered up with now, and even our
children.)
I tell you all this because this magazine
has borne some of the brunt of these dyedin-the-wool habits. We’re up, we’re running
and the big picture looks great. But the start
hasn’t been all that graceful.
“eatdrink is like a loon,” I told a friend a
few days ago. Have you seen a loon take
flight? Crazy flapping, running on the
“W
water, looking like it’ll never get in the air.
The bird’s splashy landings are also clumsy.
But when it finally takes flight, it streaks
through the sky. When it hits the water, it’s
sleek and powerful, and dives to great
depths. And its voice is compelling, with a
range of calls that many find
spellbinding.
Not a day goes by that we
don’t hear encouragement
for our efforts to deliver a
readable and “read-worthy”
magazine. The word is getting out, people are steadily emptying our
distribution boxes, more are wondering
where they can pick up a copy, businesses
are asking about advertising and if they
can be a distributor and I’m getting
enquiries from some wonderfully talented
writers. This month, our illustrious group
is joined by Ann McColl Lindsay. I am truly
grateful for the quality of writers we have
attracted. But don’t be intimidated. If you
have a story to tell, let me know.
Have you signed up yet for your free subscription to our eatdrink online edition?
Remember: no spam. Guaranteed. You
can still pick up a hard copy when you
wish, but this is the best way to get a
reminder about new issues, and we always
have more recipes and additional content
online. Our website remains a work in
progress (as are all good things) but in
addition to the online magazine, you can
search for restaurants, and reviews are
coming soon. Stay tuned! 6
issue three • october 2007
RESTAURANTS
What’s Luck Got to Do with It?
Fairy tale and real life merge at Woolfy’s at Wildwood
By Cecilia Buy
Part One: The Fairy Tale
Let me tell you the Tale of the Lucky Man.
And so he crossed the ocean, and journeyed many miles to a small town. Here,
in time, he made many friends, and found
true love, and discovered his heart’s
dream.
He still lives near that small town, and if
you meet him, he will tell you that he is
not special, but simply that he is a lucky
man.
nce upon a time, in old London
town, a young boy set out to follow
his dream. But first, he had to learn
how to make his living. After studying for
two long years, he went to work in the diamond mines. There he got better at his
work, and earned a good reputation. One Part Two: The Reality
day, he received a message from a far away
land, asking him to travel to that distant It’s a bit like Part One, really.
place, there to ply his trade.
he man is Chris Woolf. The
school is Waltham Forest College in London, England, where
he began his training in French cuisine and food service. And at 17
Woolf was hired to work in the private dining rooms of the DeBeers
diamond company, where he completed his apprenticeship. I’m not
sure if that was luck or not, but it’s an
interesting job for the resumé. And it
must have impressed Chef JeanMarie Lacroix, who hired Woolf to
work at The Church Restaurant in
Stratford.
Friends, true love, and finding
your dream? In Stratford, Woolf met
Mary Fuller, the woman who would
be his partner in life, love, and business. Over the years they worked
hard, forged relationships with other
restaurateurs, with local farmers and
fishmongers, with wine experts and
with inspirational chefs. Lots of nice
people.
They bought a little motel, in the
middle of nowhere. And for the next
four years they rented out motel
rooms, and served breakfast and
Chris and Mary Woolf
lunch, and changed the bed linen,
O
T
and had time to play with their children,
and to get to know the neighbours.
The dreary old motel magically disappeared. To be replaced by an unpretentious but pretty little building, housing a
restaurant that has wowed visitors (theatre-goers, serious diners-out, food journalists, and fellow culinartists) for the past
seven years.
“We were lucky,” insists Woolf, “but
we’ve worked hard,” admitting that you
don’t achieve this level of success without
a combination of experience and effort. “It
takes years,” he adds, “and it doesn’t happen overnight.” I would guess talent has
something to do with it as well, but he
seems a modest man.
Woolfy’s at Wildwood is located on
Highway 7, just outside St. Marys. So what
makes the drive to Woolfy’s worth it? The
venue, the food and the service. There are
two dining rooms, one on either side of
the central reception area. The décor is
crisp and modern, (white linen, of course)
but the feeling is warm and intimate. The smaller room, which
seats about twenty, is used for private functions. In the off-season, the
larger dining room is closed and this
area used exclusively. Even on this
late summer afternoon you can
imagine the cozy invitation it offers
on a cold and snowy night.
The Woolfs participated in establishing the Perth County Slow Food
convivium, and the food at their
restaurant reflects not only the principles of that movement, but an atti-
Woolfy’s offers crisp
linens and a
modern décor yet feels
warm and cozy.
7
tude to food that they have long held.
Woolf says that “ever since we started ...
everything was local. The breakfast (at the
motel) was local eggs, local bacon. If we
couldn’t get it, we wouldn’t use it. It was as
simple as that.”
And when Chris Woolf says “local,” he’s
not stretching the truth. He points out the
window to a farm directly across the road.
It’s an organic farm belonging to Ann
Slater, well known to many restaurant and
home chefs. “Whatever she brings, we
use,” says Woolf. From Sheldon Berries in
Lakeside (a tiny town just to the south),
come raspberries, blueberries, pumpkins,
squash, tomatoes and melons. Megen’s
Farms, “a mile down the road,” provides
strawberries, raspberries and honey.
Among his meat suppliers is Fred de Martines of Perth Pork Products. You might
find the flavourful Tamworth or Berkshire
pork on the menu, or perhaps wild boar,
which Mr. de Martines markets through
the delightfully-named Wild Boar Galore.
8
For the fish that frequently appears
on the menu, Woolf goes further
afield, but just a bit further. Terry’s
Global Wide Fish & Seafood of Port
Dover picks up right from the fishermen’s boats, and delivers it fresh to
the back door of the restaurant. “We
use a lot of lake fish: whitefish, pickerel and perch.”
All this gladsome use of whatever’s
seasonal and local must wreak some
Tandoori Shrimp with Mango, havoc on a well-conceived menu, you
Cilantro Raita and Pineapple Chutney would think. But for Woolf, it’s more
Bauhaus; food follows farmers sort of
thing. “I can buy ... by the container
On the subject of local cheese-makers,
Woolf waxes eloquent and enthusiastic. load,” he acknowledges. But he prefers
“Wonderful cheese! They’re selling Feta, “using what you can buy, and turning it into
and goat’s cheese, and right now we’re something viable. It’s reflected in the taste
using a lot of sheep’s milk cheese. Shep- … and in the quality.” Consequently, the
herds Gourmet Dairy in Tavistock [uses] menu at Woolfy’s is changing “all the time.”
Fine dining establishments tend to
sheep’s milk … Saganaki! And just now
we’re trying Friulano, a bit saltier, goes make revisions to their menus a few times
really well with fruit, so we offer it as a a year, usually coinciding with the change
dessert with fresh fruit—peaches, local of season. The much more frequent
changes at Woolfy’s, while dictated by suppears …” This man loves his food.
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ply, are welcomed by the clientele.
Especially by the local residents,
who are the bread-and-butter, so to
speak, of any restaurant in a tourist
town. These are the people who continue to dine out even when the theatres are dark, and these are the
people “we have got to keep interested.” It should be mentioned that
“local,” in terms of Woolfy’s clientele,
refers to a larger geographical area
than you might think. This place
pulls people not only from the Stratford/St. Marys vicinity, but also from
as far away as Sarnia and Toronto.
For theatre patrons, Woolfy’s offers
an attractive alternative to the excellent restaurants located right in Stratford. Whether as a stop on the way or,
increasingly, on the way home, the
choice of this venue is for many an integral
part of their Stratford experience.
Chris Woolf is one of those chefs whose
fans will follow, wherever they go. “Starting
out, I was lucky enough to have a name in
9
Thai Chicken Curry
with roasted Pineapple
downtown Stratford. Twenty years down
the road they still come and see us.” (There
he goes again, giving credit to Lady Luck.)
One occasionally hears a bit of talk from
chefs who are rather disdainful of those for
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10
whom they deign to cook. They believe
there’s a need to educate us ignorant souls,
teach us to appreciate the very special
knowledge and talents of the keeper of the
fridge. So it’s refreshing to speak to Woolf,
who maintains a common-sense attitude
to the chef/diner relationship. “People are
interested in where they eat, and what they
eat,” is Woolf’s straightforward take on the
whole dining-out business. And a little bit
more specifically, he notes that it is, simply
but importantly, a matter of an “association” between the customer and the
restaurateur. “It’s not just about the food.
It’s not all about the chef in the kitchen, the
cantankerous guy who wants to put his
stamp on everything. It’s a rounded experience.” And the food is as important as “the
wine, [that] is as important as the clean
tablecloth.” Michael Stadtlander is one of
the chefs he admires, “someone who cares
about the environment—deeply—and
produces not just good food, but a good
time,” adding “If you don’t feel comfortable, it doesn’t really count for much.”
Which leads, of course, to the service.
Front of house is the purview of Mary
Fuller Woolf, whose considerable accomplishments contribute to this vital component of the restaurant experience. She
progressed from server to hostess to floor
manager, graduated from the Stratford
Chefs School, and was employed at Rundles (as assistant pastry chef ) and The Old
Prune, as well as working at 20 King Street
as sous-chef. The standard of service at
Woolfy’s is a slightly “haute” but graceful
blend of the personalized and the formal.
Wines at Woolfy’s are the exception to
the Rule of Local. Practicalities of price
and of customer taste demand that the
offerings include certain grapes, and certain countries. Canadian wines, like the
Baco Noir Reserve, Henry of Pelham, 2004,
are included on a very respectable list that
provides an “international flavour.”
Though not a card-carrying member of
the sommelier’s association, Mary Woolf’s
considerable experience and taste are
apparent in the wine list. The Woolfs also
benefit from a friendly association with
Billy Munnelly, of Billy’s Best Bottles,
who consults with them on their list (and
Recipe courtesy of Woolfy’s at Wildwood
Gazpacho Soup
6 ripe heirloom tomatoes, peeled and
chopped
1 red onion, finely chopped
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, chopped
1 sweet red bell pepper (or green),
seeded and chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
1-2 Tbsp (15-30 mL) chopped fresh parsley
2 Tbsp (30 mL)chopped fresh chives
1 clove garlic, minced
¼ cup (60 mL) red wine vinegar
¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil
2 Tbsp (30 mL) freshly squeezed lemon
juice
2 tsp (10 mL) sugar
Salt and fresh ground pepper, to taste
6 drops of Tabasco sauce
1 tsp (5 mL) Worcestershire sauce
4 cups (1 L) tomato juice
1
Combine ingredients. Blend to a
smooth consistency. Place in nonmetal, non-reactive storage container,
cover and refrigerate overnight.
2
Serve with extra chopped chives,
cucumber and red pepper dice.
who suggests that when you go to
Woolfy’s, “skip the play and keep eating
and drinking”).
If you ever find yourself at Woolfy’s,
what can I say? Consider yourself lucky. CECILIA BUY is a writer and designer who has enjoyed living and dining in London for the past 17 years.
Woolfy’s at Wildwood
RR2 St. Marys, Highway 7 & (118)119
519-349-2467
www.woolfys.com
Lunch: tuesday-friday 11:30am-2:00pm
Dinner: tuesday-friday from 5:00pm
Closed Sunday, Monday
a lway s mo re o nl ine
Another great recipe courtesy of
WOOLFY’S AT WILDWOOD, just a click away!
11
BOOKS
Feeding the Heart of the Home
Review by Jennifer Gagel
ucy Waverman observed that people
“want to learn more about cooking
and to make it a pleasurable part of
their lives,” and so she decided to teach us.
She’s the woman to do it, too.
She knows cooking, having
attended Cordon Bleu for
her training. She knows people, having taught in cooking
schools. She knows readers,
after receiving years of feedback as a Globe and Mail
columnist and the LCBO
Food & Drink magazine editor. Lucy’s Kitchen: Signature Recipes and Culinary
Secrets (Random House Canada Ltd, 2006, $35) is the
result. It masquerades as a
cookbook but, in actuality, it’s a textbook—
to cooking better and loving it more.
This book will teach you how to be a
more accomplished and comfortable
cook, no matter your skill level. The pictures are beautiful, and plentiful enough
to keep you flipping pages over and over
again. It’s all real food photographed right
in Lucy’s kitchen. The layout is simple and
pleasing to the eye, while also being functional. Each culinary skill is tabbed blue
for easy reference. Loaded with a variety of
recipes, there is something sure to please
every palate. It is also accessible, made
from the ingredients Lucy loves and keeps
on hand, no yeast breads or recipes
requiring a terrible amount of fuss. Most
of the recipes can be prepared in less than
20 minutes, with a bit of practice.
Lucy shares her readers’ favourites with
us, such as Risotto with Scallops and
Roasted Cauliflower, a recipe she developed for the Globe and Mail. There’s also
Brownie Pudding, a friend’s tried-andtrue creation. If you are at all experimental
in your cooking, then this is a great book
to test substitutions on. The Oeufs en
L
Cocotte worked wonderfully with broccoli
instead of spinach, and was simple and
fast enough to throw together when unexpected guests arrived. I didn’t have truffle
oil, but it still turned out
lovely. The principles
involved: using a water
bath (or bain marie) to
poach delicate foods to
set, but not to overcook,
can be used over and over
again in great cooking.
Lucy has a fabulous
sense for how flavours
combine, and crosses ethnic cuisines with a world
passport. Her heritage is
Scottish, but she incorporates other cuisines, such
as Asian or Indian, uniquely and with
ease, creating a multicultural cuisine that
would make Trudeau proud. Edamame,
green soya beans, are usually thought of as
Japanese, but Lucy mixes them with Mexican seasonings to create an Emerald Edamame Dip, one that could excite anyone’s
taste buds. Do let it sit for at least a few
hours, or preferably overnight. Melding
the flavours makes a big difference.
If you are embarking on a return to the
kitchen, striving to eat better, give yourself
a well-stocked pantry and a week of cooking at home with this book. It is a serious
shortcut to leaving pre-packaged food
behind forever, and whipping up something great when guests pop in.
For those who already make the kitchen
the centre of their home, this book will fit
beautifully into your lifestyle. Lucy’s casual
approach to exquisite food makes it accessible for all. Leaving the onion skins on
when making chicken broth “will give the
stock a rich yellow colour.” Excellent tips,
right where you need them, are evidence
she knows her audience. While she admits
she loves copper pots, “they are impractical
12
for the home cook.” In addition to culinary
techniques and delicious recipes, she
clearly illustrates that you can do something fabulous with a few basics on hand.
You begin to see there is always something
fun you can do.
The recipes work well together, so if you
stock up for one or two, you’ll find several
more options with many of the ingredients left on hand. And if your pantry is regularly well stocked, you will never be
without something to pull together. After
some time spent with Lucy’s Kitchen, your
kitchen will also be the vibrant heart of
your home. issue three • october 2007
Chili Squash Soup
2 Tbsp butter
1 cup chopped onions
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground fennel seeds
¼ tsp chili flakes
pinch ground cloves
4 cups diced butternut squash
3 cups chicken stock
½ cup orange juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup sour cream
2 Tbsp chopped chives
1
JENNIFER GAGEL began her love affair with food at age
eight, cooking for a family of food lovers and fickle eaters
under the tutelage of her two European grandmothers. She 2
works for the London Public Library, where she scours the
cookbook selection to plan her next culinary experiment.
3
Recipes courtesy of Lucy Waverman, Lucy’s Kitchen: Signature
Recipes and Culinary Secrets (Random House Canada Ltd, 2006)
4
Emerald Edamame Dip (About 2 cups)
2 cups shelled edamame
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup plain yogurt
½ tsp lemon juice
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp chili powder
2 Tbsp chopped chives
1
Heat butter in a large pot over medium
heat. Add onions and sauté for about 2
minutes, or until softened.
Stir in coriander, cumin, fennel, chili
flakes and cloves. Add squash and mix
with spices.
Add stock and orange juice and bring to
a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until
squash is soft, about 10 to 15 minutes.
Puree soup and return to pot. Season
with salt and pepper. Reheat and serve
with a swirl of sour cream and chives.
Serves 4.
Risotto with Scallops and Roasted
Cauliflower
Roasted Cauliflower
2 cups cauliflower florets (cut in bite-size
pieces)
Combine edamame, mayonnaise, cumin, 1 Tbsp olive oil
yogurt, lemon juice, chili powder and
chives in a food processor. Season with
Scallops
salt and pepper and process until smooth. 1 Tbsp olive oil
Dagmar Kovar
Fibre Artist
Open Studio Door
November 29 and 30, 2pm to 6pm
December 1, 10am to 4pm
538 Adelaide Street N. (at Princess)
London, Ontario
[email protected]
12 large scallops
Risotto
3 Tbsp butter
½ cup finely chopped onions
½ tsp finely chopped garlic
1 cup Carnaroli or arborio rice
½ cup white wine
4 cups hot chicken stock
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 Tbsp chopped parsley
1
Preheat oven to 425 F.
2
Toss cauliflower, oil, salt and pepper in a
large bowl. Spread on a baking sheet
and roast, stirring occasionally, for 15
minutes, or until golden and tender.
Reserve.
Heat 2 Tbsp butter in a heavy pot over
medium heat for risotto. Add onions and
garlic and sauté for 2 minutes. Add rice
and stir to coat with butter, about 1
minute. Pour in wine and simmer until
wine is completely absorbed.
Add 1 cup hot stock and simmer until
3
4
5
6
13
stock is nearly absorbed. Continue
adding stock a cup at a time until 3 cups
stock have been absorbed (about 20
minutes in total). Stir in reserved cauliflower. Add remaining stock and cook
until rice is al dente.
Prepare scallops by heating oil in a skillet
over high heat while risotto is cooking.
Season scallops with salt and pepper
and fry for 2 minutes per side, or until
golden.
Stir in remaining 1 Tbsp butter, cheese
and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Serve risotto in soup bowls topped
with scallops.
Serves 4 as an appetizer. a lway s mo re o nl ine
JENNIFER GAGEL has picked two more great recipes
from LUCY’S KITCHEN. The “Oeufs en Cocotte”
and “Brownie Pudding” recipes, courtesy of LUCY
WAVERMAN, are just a click away!
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'5JQR QT ECNN
14
WINE
Is Wine a Superfood?
By Shari Darling
hen I was a kid my mom would
always repeat, “Eat your spinach.
It’s good for you.” Somehow, my
mom knew instinctively that spinach was
a superfood. I should have realized its
power, given Popeye’s love for it, but I was
too busy indulging my immature palate
with corn, macaroni and cheese, chocolate, pizza, potato chips and French fries.
(Yippee!!) Unfortunately, I
was laying the groundwork
for
my
carbohydrate
addiction, and there’s no
12-step program for this
gut-expanding, flab-producing, artery-blocking,
childish diet program.
I’ve recently learned that
adding superfoods into
one’s diet will aid in boosting the immune system
and fight disease. Dr.
Steven Pratt is considered
the “Superman” of superfoods. He is a world-renowned authority on the role of nutrition
and lifestyle in the prevention of disease
and optimizing health. A senior staff ophthalmologist at Scripps Memorial Hospital
in La Jolla, California and an assistant clinical professor at the University of California at San Diego, Pratt is also the author of
SuperFoods Rx: Fourteen Foods That Will
Change Your Life.
According to Pratt, about 14 superfoods
are better for you than others. “Each food
was selected based on gold standard
research of healthy dietary patterns
around the world,” he says. “These foods
are an integral part of all the recognized
healthy dietary patterns that prevent disease and extend our health span, and perhaps our life span.”
This is certainly not an exhaustive list,
but here are Pratt’s “Top 14” superfoods:
Beans: A great low-fat, low-calorie source
W
of protein and an easy way to help control
your weight and your blood sugar.
Blueberries: The best food on the planet
to preserve a young brain as we mature.
Broccoli: The best food on the planet to
prevent cancer.
Oats: A sure-fire way to lower cholesterol.
Oranges: The most readily available
source of vitamin C, that in turn lowers the
rate of most causes of death
in North America, such as
heart disease and cancer.
Pumpkin: Loaded with phytonutrients that keep our
skin young and help prevent damage from sunlight.
Wild salmon: A guaranteed
way to lower your risk for
cardiac-related death.
Soy: The only complete vegetarian source of protein.
Spinach: The best food on
the planet to prevent
cataracts and age-related
macular degeneration, a
leading cause of blindness.
Tea (green or black): The easiest and
cheapest no-calorie way to decrease the
risk of heart disease and cancer.
Tomatoes: One of the easiest ways for men
to lower their risk of prostate cancer is the
consumption of tomatoes and tomatobased products.
Skinless turkey breast: The leanest meat
source of protein on the planet.
Walnuts: Consuming walnuts is an easy,
tasty way to lower your risk of cardiovascular disease.
Yogurt: A tasty, easy way to boost your
immune system.
While Pratt does not list wine as a superfood, I certainly include it on my list. I’m
not a doctor, but I do know my wine and I
know about its super benefits.
Studies show that red wine, consumed
15
in moderation and with meals, contributes toward a healthy lifestyle. So Shari Darling extols
there’s absolutely no reason why you wine’s health benefits
shouldn’t include red wine as a and the food pairing
superfood. Boost your intake of possibilities with beans
superfoods, cut down on fat, calories and wild salmon, two of Dr.
and carbohydrates and enjoy a glass Steven Pratt’s “superfoods.”
of the fermented red grape.
Research also shows that where
the diet is high in fat, those who
drink red wine with meals have a
lower incidence of heart attacks.
That’s another characteristic of a
superfood. Red wine also contains
compounds, such as antioxidants,
that aid in protecting our hearts and
reducing the risk of strokes. Resveratrol is the most famous antioxidant
found in red wine. It is believed to be
good at mopping up chemicals
responsible for causing blood clots,
the primary cause of heart disease.
Guercetin is another antioxidant
believed to help prevent lung cancer.
into the fall!
Red wine also has a flavanoid known as
Dancing Bull Zinfandel (E. & J. Gallo
catechin that contributes to the reduction Winery, lcbo 669499, 750 mL, $13.95) A red
of heart attacks.
wine with forward fruit character to pair
Add to this that a glass of red wine after a with superfoods turkey breast and
stressful day acts as a natural tranquilizer, steamed broccoli.
reducing anxiety and tension. Wine also
Black Box Paso Robles Cabernet Sauviaids in our digestion and contributes min- gnon (Pacific Wine Partners, lcbo 38331,
erals and vitamins to our bodies.
1000 mL, $14.15) An austere red wine with
lots of pleasant tannin and astringency to
Recommended Bottles
pair with the superfoods of walnuts and
Pairing superfoods with wine makes sense spinach. How about a spinach salad with
in lots of ways. Here’s some suggestions:
toasted walnuts, red onions and proThirty Bench Riesling 2006 (Andres sciutto with shavings of Parmesan? Wines Ltd, Vintages 24133, 750 mL, $17.95).
A crisp, dry white wine ideal to pair with SHARI DARLING is a member of the Wine Writers’ Circle of
superfoods such as green beans, broccoli Canada, author of numerous books such as Harmony on the
and fresh tomatoes.
Palate: Matching Simple Recipes to Everyday Wine
Cave de Turckheim Gewurztraminer Styles and co-author of The Wine Manual, a resource for
Réserve 2005 (Ernest Preiss, Vintages sommelier and wine training in colleges and universities.
10397, 750 mL, $19.95). An off-dry white She can be reached through her website: www.sophistiwine with a hint of sweetness, ideal to pair catedwino.com.
with the superfoods of curried pumpkin
and a fresh green salad highlighting an
a lway s mo re o nl ine
orange vinaigrette or a spinach salad with
orange wedges.
Toasted Head Chardonnay (V ) (R.H.
A fabulous “CURRIED PUMPKIN SOUP”
Phillips, Vintages 594341, 750 mL, $17.95). A
recipe from SHARI DARLING, perfect to pair with
big, fat white wine to pair with the supera California Zinfandel, is just a click away!
food wild salmon. Use the barbecue well
Stratford
is more
than
great
theatre
“The appreciation for quality that Stratford visitors
have for theatre extends to what they eat ... A
cosmopolitan food scene featuring imagination and
craftsmanship has evolved in the area.”
— Katherine Dowhan, Homemakers
The Schnitzel House
Fresh Homemade (Pounded Daily)
Variety of Schnitzels
Rouladen • Vegetarian • Seafood
(Next door to the Avon Theatre)
519-275-3266
WWW.FOSTERSINN.COM
111 D o w n i e S t r e e t , S T R AT F O R D 1- 8 8 8 - 7 2 8 - 5 5 5 5
Just steps away from Theatre
Photo: Dave Rees
107 Downie Street • Stratford
SHELDON RUSSELL
CHEF/PROPRIETOR
“Modern, ever-evolving,
flavour-packed cuisine.
You will enjoy it.”
Covered outdoor patio
34 Brunswick behind the Avon Theatre
Reservations 519 271 5645
www.keystonealley.com
Appetizing suites
Upstairs at the Cafe
Reservations 519 271 5645
18
CHEFS
Passion for Perfection
By Melanie North
F
I met Mark at his Waldo’s on King Bistro
and Wine Bar at London’s Covent Garden
Market. We sat out on the King Street patio
for a “Longo.”
Melanie North: Well, Mark, my first question is: What is a Longo?
Mark Kitching: It’s a shot of espresso but
with double the water—very simple,
very good.
MN: Love it. As long as I am asking for
definitions, what is your definition
of a “Bistro”?
MK: We took the definition right out of
the dictionary and put it on our
menu. Bistro: an intimate, informal
restaurant that serves wine. A small
or unpretentious restaurant or bar.
MN: That makes me wonder—is that why
you left your Piccadilly Street location, because you wanted to make a
complete change from Fine Dining
to something more casual?
MK: To be honest, the Piccadilly location
had a 15-year lease, and at about 12
years into it, I started to rethink the
Chef Mark Kitching
takes a playful pose
outside his London
restaurant Waldo’s
on King.
Dave Chidley, Mainstreet London
ew people recognize their “True
Calling” at 10 years of age, but that’s
exactly what Mark Kitching did
when he found himself working Saturdays
at Jones’ Bakery in Southport, just outside
of Manchester, England.
He quickly moved from pressing the
pastry into molds for pie shells, to making
the dough himself, along with the breads,
and then the pies, and then decorating the
tops of the pastry shells. He says he did
poorly in school but when he started baking he got nothing but compliments. The
better he did, the more compliments he
got. So by age 14, his boss, Mr. Jones told
him to expand his repertoire and become
a complete chef. Mark has never looked
back.
“dining business.” I realized I
wanted a more relaxed atmosphere, not Fine Dining. It
turned out that I couldn’t renegotiate the lease, so that
resulted in a fresh turnaround.
I found this new space and it
was perfect for a bistro-style
restaurant. It has a patio, faces
onto King St. and is also open
to the Market. There’s lots of
parking and lots of “walk-by”
traffic. The old restaurant was
a destination location and
normally the business was
80% reservations. Here it is the
opposite; 80% walk-in and
20% reservations.
19
Grilled Calamari with a lemon garlic dip
drizzled with basil olive oil
MN: What do you like personally about
the bistro atmosphere?
MK: Everything. For example, our clientele—they really range from 1 to 85
years old and the price point is perfect for a wide range of customers
too. I like the openness, and the
casual feeling here.
MN: Speaking of openness, is that the reason the kitchen is open to the restau-
rant—for the “bistro” atmosphere?
MK: No actually, I just like to keep an
eye on everything! I like to be sure
the customers are getting the attention they deserve. My staff is great,
but sometimes things slip and I can
keep an eye on everything and
make sure it’s running smoothly.
Our place is intimate, and I have a
“feel” for things. I know instantly if a
customer wants something, if they
are a little restless because they are
waiting too long for coffee, and I’ll
Waldo’s on King Bistro and Wine Bar is also, as the name
suggests, a great spot for more than the good food.
20
Crème Brûlée
and fresh berries
tell their waiter to go to their table.
By the time you have finished your
meal here, you have probably interacted with everyone on the floor—
and that’s a good thing.
When I hire, I look first and foremost for a person with a great personality and then we train them. I
always ask incoming employees
what they’ve heard about me. One
recently answered, “I knew someone
who used to work for you and he
said that you expect staff to do
everything perfectly all the time.” I
[Mark] believe that’s a good thing—
that’s OK with me. That’s what we
should be doing. I mean, mistakes
will happen. For example, if you
burn a steak, that’s a mistake, but if
you then serve it to the customer,
that’s an unforgivable mistake.
MN: Would your staff describe you as a bit
of a control freak?
MK: Of course, I am a little bit obsessivecompulsive about things, but I think
that comes with being a “cook/
owner.”
I don’t call myself a chef, I call
myself a cook. I think the word
“chef” is really a bastardized French
word, like I’m saying constantly “I’m
the boss.” I really am the boss, but
my guys in the kitchen call me Mark.
I think it’s a sign of mutual respect.
MN: You have two roles to balance
here: the cook and the owner.
How would you describe yourself as a cook?
MK: I would say that I am not the
most creative cook but I am
one of the most consistent. I
would rather be a cook with
solid ability and precision than
be very creative. I’m more of a
simple, technical cook. I like to
cook to perfection. My
favourites are meats and
sauces, but like everything, it
depends on my mood. I actually love everything.
I am consistent and I require
my staff to be consistent. It
takes a certain something to be successful at those hundreds of details
every day. For example, are the
plates clean, are they hot? Did you
know that we have two ovens just
for heating plates? The plates have
to be hot enough so that the chef
can just carry the plate from the
oven to the plating area—about
three feet—and put the food on,
(before he would burn his hand) but
then the waiter needs a cloth to
carry it, because it’s still so hot. That’s
what I mean about consistency.
MN: You say you are not the most creative
cook. Do you experiment at all?
MK: I do experiment. I have ideas, or
things I’ve heard of. I’ll try something
and then send it out to a regular customer to critique. If they like it, I’ll
put it on as a menu item. I have a lot
of regulars, and I only change the
menu twice a year—and they like it
that way. We don’t have a particular
focus here, we like the demographic
and like to be good at everything.
MN: What do you like to eat?
MK: I like to eat anything, but it has to be
simple. There’s nothing like fresh
asparagus grilled on the barbecue, or a simple roast fish on
the barbecue. I like everything
fresh, foods that are cooked
and served right away, as fast
as possible, and if they are supposed to be hot, they should be
hot.
MN: What are your strengths as an
owner?
MK: As a cook/owner, you have to
always have respect for the
bottom line. That’s why they
call it the restaurant “business.” I wouldn’t recommend
it to someone who wasn’t truly
passionate and knew they
would do it for the rest of their
lives.
One of the things people
don’t talk about is, it’s a very hard,
stressful job. There are lots of
rewards and a lot of hard work. The
stress is because you always have to
be on top of your game. Organization is key. I’ve met some really creative cooks, but artsy doesn’t
perform quickly and efficiently.
A restaurant is like a living
organism and it has a flow—that
can be different every day, so you
have to be able to cope with that.
For example I can sell $5000 in the
four hours from 5-9:00 p.m. Other
days, I can sell $4000 in 1½ hours
21
Tomato and Goat Cheese
Stack on a bed of mesclun
greens richly flavored
with a balsamic
glaze and
basil oil
and I don’t have a second to think.
You have to do both well.
MN: What advice would you give young
people who want to making cooking
their career?
MK: Know what you want and where you
want to go. I mapped it all out when
I was 13 years old. Be honest, ask
yourself: what is it that I want? If it’s
a roadhouse, then work in some
roadhouses. If food is the big thing,
then put your nose to the grindstone and work in better and better
places. Map out what you want.
Roast Rack of Lamb,
hazelnut and rosemary
crusted, finished with a
red wine and shallots
demi-glaze
22
I think that TV has done a disservice to young people. It’s not
complicated. To be a good cook you
have to be knowledgeable about a
lot of things. You have to know how
to take apart a chicken, in fact take
apart any kind of meat. Kids now
don’t deal with the basics, they
order a box of precut, boneless
chicken, but don’t necessarily know
how to do that themselves.
You have to take the best products you can get, and you need to
cook it well. Technical ability is THE
most important thing. You have got
to have a feel for food, to like touching food. You can tell just by the
touch if a rack of lamb is ready – you
shouldn’t have to stick a thermometer into it. Be in tune with food,
know intuitively and technically
how to cook.
MN: Mark, you are obviously passionate
about what you do, but is there anything else in the world you would
have chosen for a career?
MK: Well, languages would be my second choice. I speak fluent German
and French and a smattering of Arabic and Thai. When I immerse
myself in languages, it’s the same
feeling I get when I immerse myself
in cooking.
But I love the restaurant business. It’s crazy stressful, but it’s a
wonderful business. You don’t have
to be crazy to work in it, but it sure
helps! MELANIE NORTH is a seasoned communications professional with experience in broadcast TV, corporate video,
website development, communications strategy, writing and
editing. She can't cook, but loves to eat!
Waldo’s on King
Bistro and Wine Bar
130 King St, London (Covent Garden Market)
519-433-6161
www.waldos.on.ca
Mon-Thurs: 11am-10pm
Fri-Sat: 11am-midnight (bar open ’til 1am)
Sunday: noon-4pm
Walk rough the Grades
Come look inside! Waldorf classrooms are
alive with the spirit of learning, using the
head, heart and
hands. Beautiful
artwork and
natural materials
decorate each classroom and give testament
to the integration of the arts into our
curriculum.
Our aim is to educate the whole child, not
just academically but also through movement,
through the arts, through social encounter,
and through the spirit of inquiry.
Book your appointment today to come
and experience this education for yourself.
7 Beaufort Street,
London ON N6G 1A5
519-858-8862
www.londonwaldorf.ca
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24
EATDRINKBUZZ
New and Noteworthy
By Bryan Lavery
Buzz [buhz], noun. 1. A feeling of calm,
usually happy intoxication. 2. a particularly
strong kind of word of mouth.
ost professional chefs I am
acquainted with identify first
and foremost with the term
“cook.” They do not find the word offensive in the least. Rather, it is a badge of
honour. A chef or chef de cuisine is still by
vocation a cook, who happens to be in
charge of the work of other cooks. Yet most
want to be referred to as a chef—it has
more caché.
Writing this column has presented a
unique set of occupational hazards. I am
surprised at how caught up people get
about titles. Yet, saying that, I could also
argue why these are delicate matters of
professional integrity and self-esteem.
Some people feel deeply affronted when
they are not properly recognized for their
achievements or status. In a previous column, I neglected to properly identify one
of the subjects by their professional title.
This was not an intentional slight but I
was quickly reminded how thin-skinned
we restaurant folk can be. We take serious
umbrage when we feel we have been
slighted. In fact, I am still waiting for the
additional half-star that I felt was missing
from the review of my first restaurant, La
M
Cucina, which I co-owned with my parents 18 years ago. In hindsight, it was a
very respectable review, but I was unable
to see that at the time because I was too
caught up in my own self-importance.
This magazine, and this column in particular, (I will say it again) was conceived
to introduce you to local chefs, restaurants, restaurateurs and the food world at
large. My personal goal is to encourage
people to dine out and reinforce a sense of
community in the local culinary world.
I walk a tight-rope, with my credibility at
stake. On the one hand, some seem to
expect me to gush unrestrained about
every restaurant every issue. On the other
hand, some encourage me to take a more
critical and occasionally harsh approach.
Of course, the temptation to do so is there.
I recently received the most pretentious
tutorial I’ve ever been given by a server; the
condescension fell just short of commenting on my table manners. But mentioning
negative specifics truly goes against what I
am trying to achieve in this column. I will
continue to help connect readers with what
I see as “the buzz” as best I can.
I recently returned from a culinary tour of
Montreal and the Ferme Cooperative
Tourne-Sol, an organic co-operative in
nearby Les Cedres. Arguably the most
“the ultimate experience in fine dining”
LuNCH Tues to Fri 11am–2pm
DINNER Tues to Sat 5:30pm–10pm
SuNDAY BRuNCH 11am–2pm
Closed Monday
1269 Hyde Park Road, London
519 472 6801
www.volkers.ca
Chef Volker Jendhoff
European of North American cities, Montreal is a food-lovers paradise. I was fascinated by the wealth of gourmet food
shops, outdoor markets, cafés, restaurants,
delis, bakeries and exquisite products specific to Quebec. Where else can you watch
locals walking down the street sipping a
concoction of Campari, Grand Marnier
and pink grapefruit juice? Purchased, no
less, at a portable sidewalk marquee set up
by the SAQ, Quebec’s equivalent of the
LCBO? Or a hardware store that sells
remarkable cookware and specialty food
products on one side of the store and guns
and ammunition on the other?
If you should find yourself in Montreal,
among my favourite dining experiences
was the centrally located La Colombe, a
small but classic French bistro with a
Moroccan twist. And no trip to Montreal
would be complete without a visit to the
Jean Talon market in Little Italy. It is a hive
of activity seven days a week.
Interestingly, the second if not the third
coming of nouvelle cuisine is firmly reestablished in some of Montreal’s finest
and most sophisticated restaurants. In
Ontario, nouvelle cuisine has a bad reputation, partly because of poor execution
resulting in the unfortunate matrimony of
ambiguous ingredients, miniscule portions and the misunderstanding of what
nouvelle cuisine’s “ten commandments”
manifesto truly means. However, we do
have local restaurants that embody the
finest qualities of nouvelle cuisine and
embrace its tenets seriously. The food is
equivalent to some of the best in Montreal. In London, we have The Only on
G
N
I
N
E
P
O OON!
S
25
King and On the Fork in Museum London. In Stratford, you can find this evolutionary approach to cooking on menus at
Rundles, The Old Prune and The Church
Restaurant.
Speaking of evolutionary, the time when
vegetarianism was a dreary afterthought
in most restaurant kitchens is definitely a
thing of the past. Zen Gardens Vegetarian
Restaurant is the real deal, and recently
celebrated its second year in business. The
menu is as delicious and diversified as they
come. My knowledgeable server described
the cuisine as Asian-Fusion Vegetarian.
Fusion cuisine combines elements of various culinary traditions while not fitting
specifically into any one.
The Zen Garden menu runs the gamut
of Asian cuisines that also includes tempura, a classic Japanese dish of deep fried
lightly battered vegetables, and a selection
of sushi. There are also plenty of vegan
items to choose from. Try the spicy eggplant bento box; it is one of my favorites.
A small selection titled Dim Sum on
their menu is somewhat of a misnomer.
Dim Sum is traditionally a way of eating
that combines delicious bite-size morsels
of food, with a diversity of items that read
like the Magna Carta. Zen Gardens offers
both barbeque and vegetable steamed
buns that appear to be microwaved
instead of the more traditional technique
of frying or steaming. The practice of reheating pre-made Dim Sum has become
all the rage in Mainland China, Hong
Kong, Taiwan and Singapore.
To Zen Garden’s credit (and like any self-
Bringing You the Flavours of Puerto Vallarta!
Restaurante y Bar Mexicano
394 Waterloo Street, London
519-936-3186
Susan Anderson & Enrique Orozco
26
respecting vegetarian restaurant), they do
not use disposable chopsticks. In China
alone, an estimated 45 billion pairs of disposable chopsticks are used and thrown
away annually. The service at Zen Gardens
is friendly, often entertaining and very
attentive. Even if you are not a vegetarian,
this is a place to go when you want some
peace of mind.
The upscale Santorini opened this past
March in the space formerly occupied by
Mario’s, on downtown London’s Clarence
Street. Santorini serves authentic and delicious Greek food in beautiful and tasteful
surroundings. The wine list is exclusively
Greek. The kitchen at Santorini knows
how to cook fish to perfection and the
service is top-notch. The food is served on
colorful, decorated plastic plates that
might be better suited to a picnic. But
there might be a reason for this: In recent
years the tradition of smashing plates at
Greek restaurants has all but disappeared
because restaurateurs fear it will lead to
them being sued by customers getting hit
by flying crockery.
Another notable Greek restaurant that
garners rave reviews is the cozy Mythic
Grill on Albert Street. For something a bit
more casual, the venerated Mykonos on
Adelaide Street is always a treat when coowner Heidi Vamvalis is in the house.
Heidi is renowned for her genuine hospitality and generosity of spirit.
Fans of Viet-Thai cuisine should check
out Ben Thanh Restaurant. They are wellknown for their Pad Thai, vermicelli dishes
and traditional Vietnamese noodle soup
dishes known as pho. A very large menu
with reasonable prices and good portions
helps this remain a perennial favourite of
students on a budget. This is not fine dining but they have two locations, the one
on Bradley being newer and subsequently
tidier than the one downtown.
Eddy Phimphrachanh also recently cele-
A
t the top of the most recommended restaurants in London,
Michael’s on the Thames (established 1983) has remained a
popular success for its cuisine, unmatched superb service and
fine dining at an affordable price.
London’s renowned Maitre d’Extraordinaire Jack DiCarlo and
the staff make your dining experience a memorable one.
Whether for business or private functions, the menu will please
every palate. A welcoming atmosphere is enhanced with music
from the grand piano six nights a week.
Take the time to enjoy superb cuisine, tableside cooking, fine
wine and the company of friends.
Monday to Friday 11am-11pm
Saturday and Sunday 5pm-11pm
Gift Certificates Available
1 York Street • Free Parking
Dine with us before events at the John Labatt Centre
Reservations are suggested. Call 519-672-0111 • www.michaelsonthethames.com
brated an anniversary at his restaurant
Thaifoon. Authentic Thai food is known
for its balance of five fundamental
flavours in each dish or the overall meal:
hot (spicy), sour, sweet, salty and bitter.
Phimphrachanh comes from a wellrespected restaurant family that knows
how to cook. I recommend making a
reservation at this downtown hot-spot if
you want to get a table. It can be a very
busy place.
And across the street is Billy’s Deli, a sitdown downtown restaurant landmark
with some of the friendliest service and
best food in the city. It’s a deli, so the sandwiches are excellent and made to order.
Billy’s has made a name for itself with
excellent smoked meat, exactly what tradition demands. This is a place I eat at
often and it is absolutely de rigueur for
those looking for the perfect Saturday
breakfast spot. Get there early if you want
a table, but even when they are busy, it’s
worth the wait. Billy’s has the best potato
27
latkes in the city and is renowned for delicious mennonite-style homemade pies.
In another part of town, Willie’s Café is a
great place for casual dining and comfort
food. They never disappoint and they
know how to make soup and darn good
sandwiches. Willie’s, a popular restaurant
and well-known caterer, serves a prix-fixe
dinner the last Friday of every month.
North Restaurant generated considerable
excitement when it opened last January in
the space previously occupied by Jade
Garden. The restaurant has been completely renovated and refurbished. North,
like the other new kid on the block in
North London, Crave, has become something of a destination restaurant for
upscale casual diners from all over the
city. Watch for more news about these
distinctively different restaurants in a
future column.
Stratford is still in full swing with the
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Reservations
Recommended
The term “100-Mile Diet” was created in
2005 by Vancouver’s James MacKinnon
and Alisa Smith. They chronicled their
one-year experiment, eating only food
that was grown or produced within 100
miles of their apartment. Challenging the
statistic that North American food typically travels 1,500 miles from farm to table,
their project was initially inspired by a foraged meal they ate at a remote wilderness
cabin in northern British Columbia.
In April 2006, they founded the 100-Mile
Diet Society, hoping to maintain the
momentum of interest after media attention ranging from the BBC to Utne Reader
persuaded them they had tapped into the
collective consciousness. In the first few
months, they garnered thousands of members (“100-Milers”) pledging to eat local
foods (“100-Mile Meals”) across North
America. In fall 2006, they developed a
100-Mile Thanksgiving campaign, garnering support from Treehugger.com, Local
Harvest, the National Farmers Union,
Locavores and many Slow Food conviviums in North America. The 100-Mile Diet:
A Year of Local Eating, an evocative
account of James’ and Alisa’s experience,
has created a significant dietary trend,
encouraging communities to eat locally
and seasonally, while thinking globally.
On September 23rd, Stratford and St.
Marys fêted the September equinox
(marking the start of autumn) with the
third annual Common Ground Culinary
Festival at McCully’s Hill Farm in St.
Marys. The event united the area’s gifted
chefs with local producers, culinary artisans and farmers. A fundraiser supporting
the McCully Centre for Rural Learning,
the event is co-sponsored by the Stratford,
St. Marys and Perth County tourist associations.
Guests spent the afternoon sampling
and sipping the local cuisine amidst
soothing jazz music in a protected country meadow. Participants included Paul
Finkelstein and his culinary class from
the Food Network’s new series “Fink,” as
well as restaurants (in no specific order):
Pazzo Ristorante, Woolfy’s at Wildwood,
Bijou, Smith & Latham, Foster’s Inn, Asie,
Mollet’s Designer Desserts and the Stone
Willow Inn.
Producers included Ann Slater’s Fresh
Organic Vegetables, Monforte Dairy,
Maryanne Jones, Blanbrook Bison Farm,
Rock Glen Fruit Farm, Fieldstone Farm,
Gentle Rain Natural Foods, Organic
Meadow, Neubrand Country Produce,
August Harvest, Perth Pork Products,
Pannifer’s of Sebringville, Shakespeare
Pies, Country Side Poultry Products,
Sheldon Berry Farm and Megens Family
Farm. Beverages were served by the Stratford Brewing Company, Balzac’s Coffee
and Cave Springs Cellars.
Anita Stewart, gastronome and culinary
activist, founder of Cuisine Canada,
support a
student chef
Shape the future of Canada’s
culinary scene by contributing
to the Stratford Chefs School
Scholarship Fund.
Your generosity gives you
a tax receipt for the full
amount of the donation, and
will benefit a student with
demonstrated financial need.
Donations can be made online
by visiting the “Members
& Donors” section at
www.stratfordchef.on.ca
Stratford Chefs School Telephone 519 271 1414
68 Nile Street, Stratford, ON Canada N5A 4C5
30
author of The Flavours of Canada and
CBC “Fresh Air” contributor, reported
that she felt that this relatively new annual
event surpassed the well-celebrated Feast
of Fields on Vancouver Island that she had
attended the previous week.
According to spokesperson Amédé
Lamarche, The Church Restaurant’s
Executive Chef who was profiled in this
magazine last month, “The Common
Ground festival is a wonderful opportunity for chef/producer relationship building, to help us all work towards more
eco-friendly and sustainable cooking. The
100-mile menu is a perfect platform to
push our community’s professional
kitchens to explore outside of their usual
non-local suppliers and to force them to
explore and understand the true concept
of seasonality.”
In the spirit of the 100-mile diet menu
movement, and to celebrate Stratford’s
culinary leadership and excellence, a
number of Stratford chefs have agreed to
take on “The 100-Mile Challenge.” For the
month of October, they will create menus
using only ingredients sourced within 100
miles of Stratford. The challenge will be
not to use olive oil, as the closest supplier
is in California, and salt and flour must be
sourced locally. Fortunately, the 100 miles
around Stratford provide a wide range of
food to meet the challenge and stimulate
our culinary geniuses. Fish from Lakes
Erie, Huron and Ontario, local organic
pork, beef, Niagara wines, local Stratford
pilsner, artisanal sheep milk cheese and
orchard fruits and vegetables provide a
wide selection of local ingredients. Stratford dining patrons will now be eating the
freshest food that has travelled the least
possible distance.
Participants are: Bijou, The Church,
Down the Street, Foster’s Inn, Fellini’s,
The Old Prune and Pazzo Ristorante. For
further details on the chefs, local producers and sample menus, please visit
www.fallforstratford.com.
Jambalaya isJump-upWorldCuisine
Speaking of Fink, Paul Finkelstein’s new
— From MILD
to WILD
Vegan Selections available
646 Richmond Street, London
519-858-2000
www.jambalayarestaurant.com
Katafnéa
Ka
“A little out of
the way,
A lot out of
the ordinary!”
519-455-9005
Lunch 11 to 3 (7 days a week)
Dinner 5 to 10 (Wed to Sun)
Breakfast 9 to 12 (Sat & Sun)
2530 Blair Rd, London
Diamond Flight Centre
31
TV show got off to a promising start October 2. The show chronicles the chef/
teacher’s work with an eclectic blend of
young people, the Culinary Club at Stratford’s Northwestern Secondary School.
On late because of occasionally salty language, the show was signed up for a second batch of episodes even before airing.
infused equally with information and wit.
The food, with it’s fusing of Far Eastern
flavours and techniques on a classical
French base, is receiving rave reviews.
Karen Hartwick of Tea Leaves Tea Tasting
Bar, who has also consulted with Rundles,
has helped Asie pair appropriate teas with
the cuisine.
Revel Caffe is the newest indie coffee
place in Stratford and opened this past
July. They only serve Fair-Trade direct coffees. London roaster Las Chicas Del Café,
who markets coffees that can stand on the
three legs of sustainability (social, environmental and economic justice), have
developed an espresso for owner Andrew
Kim Morrow and his new Asie restaurant McGorman’s selection of high quality traare generating a lot of buzz this month. ditional espresso-based drinks.
Strong word-of-mouth is bringing plenty
of folks to Asie. Kim’s gregarious nature The coordinators of Upstairs at Loblaws
and strong personality works well in his and Upstairs at the Superstore, Mies
intimate and serene locale. For those who Bervoets, Maya Clarke, Rebecca McInlove a chef to explain a dish to his tosh, Christine Scheer and Barbara
patrons, you’ll find each presentation is Toomer, are all local culinary luminaries
Raja, Stratford’s Indian fine dining spot, is
getting recommendations from local
restaurateurs. Reports are that the food is
good and Raja fits well as an “ethnic” alternative to some of the best restaurants in
town. It is “upscale” Indian, with a smart
traditional décor and good ambience.
“ We are indeed
much more than
what we eat, but
what we eat can
nevertheless help
us to be much
more than what
we are.
trü restaurant
”
Free Parking Every Day
45 King St.
London, Ontario
519-672-4333
www.trurestaurant.ca
32
who are offering a diverse range of affordable cooking classes this fall at their
respective locations. Of particular note is
chef and cooking instructor Zakia Haskouri, formerly of the London Casbah, who
will be teaching Moroccan Cooking
Classes in the current program. Haskouri
is a chef’s chef, a tireless advocate of Slow
Food and a fundraiser for many worthwhile causes. Her courses include Secrets
of the Moroccan Spice Kitchen, An
Evening in Marrakech and a Royal
Moroccan Feast.
Tequila!
London’s Only Tequila Bar
· The Top of the
Line Brands
· Over 20 Blue
Agave Tequilas
Si Señor, London’s new authentic Mexican
restaurant, will be opening in the former
Murano location around the middle of
October. Owners Susan Anderson and
Enrique “Frankie” Orozco have completely revamped the interior and it looks
warm and inviting.
Patrón Añejo
Although already open, O zone Organics
is celebrating its official Grand Opening
on October 13 at its Hyde Park and Fanshawe Park Roads location. Watch for
more about this interesting “fast food”
concept in a future column.
Don’t forget to be part of creating the buzz.
Email interesting culinary news to me at:
[email protected] UNDER THE VOLCANO
fresh mexican grill & tapas lounge
BRYAN LAVERY is a writer, a founding member of Slow
Food London, a proponent of the Endangered Fish Alliance and a veteran of the restaurant scene. As the former
chef/owner of the 10-year-old Murano restaurant, he recently
decided to shift his focus to various other interests and new
food-related projects, including penning this column.
Richmond & Piccadilly
519-435-1197
www.iloveunderthevolcano.com
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34
BEER
Autumn Leaves,Fest Beers
and Long Dark Lagers
By The Malt Monk
alking the dog the other day, I
saw brilliant patches of golden
and red maple leaves fringing
the green on the trees. Unlike the dude on
the Leon’s commercial, this early reminder
of summer’s end and cooler weather
ahead didn’t send me into paranoid shock.
For me, the thought of fall conjures pictures of harvest celebrations and fest halls
filled with steaming food and rich bready
fest beer. This puts a knowing grin on my
mug while I walk the brisk fall morning
among those unfortunates who dread the
cold to come. I know the season holds rich
fest beer and dark warming delights from
craft brewers.
other airborne micro-organisms, or how
these would sour or infect beer; they just
knew that summer brewing was hit and
miss with sour off-tastes the result. So they
brewed in late fall and winter. In March, for
the last brew of the season, they doubled
up on the malts to bring up the alcohol a bit
so it would last and mellow slowly in cool
cave-stored barrels during the summer and
be ready for consumption in the fall, when
harvest festivals were happening.
This “Märzen” fall fest beer tradition
was the motivator for a new rich, redamber lager that Munich master brewer
and malter Josef Sedlmayr first brewed in
1872. The first regular batch was made in
March, lagered until September and was
Oktoberfest Origins
ready in time for the Oktoberfest. It was an
Being a native of Canada’s largest Ger- instant sensation and became the signamanic community, I became aware of the ture drink of the Munich fall festival.
tradition and trappings of
The Genre
Oktoberfest early in life.
Oktoberfest märzen is
There is enough info
usually dark copper-gold
available on this 197-yearto deep orange-red in
old Munich fall festival
colour, with bright clarity
(also celebrated in Kitchand a solid puffy off-white
ener-Waterloo), that I
cap. The traditional brewneedn’t take up space
ing guidelines describe a
rehashing it here. Instead,
robust lager at 5.2–6%
let’s get to the core of the
alcohol by volume (ABV ),
Oktoberfest celebration:
The Märzen fest beer.
bottom-fermented and
German “Märzenbier”
cold lagered for at least 60
days, with pronounced
is a reminder that March
malt flavours from Vienna
(Märzen) or April was tramalts. A rich German malt
ditionally the end of the
aroma (like fresh toasted
brewing season. Early on,
bread crusts). Clean, with
German brewers found
no fruity esters and low
beer could not be cleanly
hop aroma. Flavour is inifermented
in
warm
weather months. The air was too full of tially bready-nutty-cereal sweetness, but
stray yeasts. They knew little of microbiol- finish is moderately dry. Distinctive and
ogy or wild yeast or pollen, bacteria or complex maltiness often includes a very
W
35
light nutty-toasted aspect. Hop bitterness
is moderate, and usually accented by the
German noble hops such as Hallertau and
Tettnang. Balance is toward malt, though
the finish is not sweet.
The best commercial German examples
are made by Spaten, HackerPschorr, Paulaner, Hofbrau,
Ayinger and Becks. I give you
these brands because most are
not imported into Ontario,
and if you are a dedicated beer
geek, you know you will have
to go to Premier Gourmet in
Buffalo to get these imports.
Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Märzen
(lcbo 409110) is not a true Oktoberfest
Märzen but is the only German märzenbeir
imported by the LCBO. This is a true German fest Märzen, but in the Bamberg style,
meaning the malts are smoked with beechwood fires departing a rich
smoke flavour to the beer. Copper-red in colour, large rocky
cap, aroma of toasted malts
and smoke. Flavour is mellow
bready maltines with a smoke
undertone. As beers go, this is
king for pairing with oysters,
cheese or smoked meats. LCBO
Recommended Märzens
(Available locally)
Availability Key: LCBO = Liquor
Control Board of Ontario;
TBS = The Beer Store; TAP = On
tap at better establishments.
It’s a pity that Mill Street’s Oktoberfest Märzen (available on tap
and in 2-litre growlers) isn’t more
widely distributed on tap. Found
only at the Mill Street brewery
pub in Toronto’s Old Distillery
District and some selected
pubs outside the GTA, this
is the only locally crafted traditional Oktoberfest märzen in Ontario. It’s bright
bronze-red colour, with a distinctive Oktoberfest aroma of bread crust, iron, hints of
nuts and caramel. Richly malty, very
toasty, with lots of bread crust, it also contains some light smoky toffee notes. Full
body, lots of colour, long, complex finish—
in terms of flavour and mouth feel, this is
the most complete Oktoberfestbier I’ve
tasted locally. TAP
Amsterdam Brewing’s Oktoberfest
(available on tap at select pubs or in bottles at the Brewery) is not a true Oktoberfest but a hybrid Märzen with Rauchbier
(smoked beer) character. Copper-red
colour. The nose is dominated with a mild
smoky mustiness and light nut-bread
smells much like a mild rauchbier. The
front side is pleasantly malty, slightly
sweet. Malt biased, hops sit in the background, medium-light body. TAP
The Dark Lager Genre
Autumn is the time to come to
the dark side, Luke! Both Bavarian Dunkels and Schwarzbiers are dark copper brown to
black lager beers. “Dunkel” is
German for “dark.” Usually, if
you hold the glass to the light,
you will see some ruby highlights. Dunkels originated in
Munich, Bavaria and were basically lagers made with richer,
darker roasted, lightly
caramelized malts that
depart a dark copper-redbrown hue. This is the oldest classic brown
lager style of Bavaria that developed as a
darker, malt-accented beer in part because of the moderately carbonated water
found there.
Dominated by the rich and complex
flavour of Munich dark malts, Dunkels
usually have an aroma and taste reminiscent of toasted bread crusts. Moderately
sweet, but not overwhelming or cloying.
Hints of caramel, chocolate, toast or nuttiness can be present in the flavour. Hop
bitterness is moderately low but discernible, with the balance tipped firmly
towards maltiness. Noble (German variety) hop flavour is low. The aftertaste
remains malty, although the hop bitterness may become more apparent in the
medium-dry finish. Clean lager character
with no fruity ale-like tastes and a toasted
nut-like malt pronouncement.
Schwarzbier is a little known style that
36
originated and developed its
winner. Dark brown colour;
unique characteristics in the
aromas of roasted nuts, malt
region around Kulmbach in
and chocolate; rich, full with
Frankonian
Germany.
flavours of caramel, dark
“Schwarz” is German for
malt and herbs; long rich
“black,” so in translation
palate with a pleasant bitthis is “black beer.”
terness on the finish. TBS /
Arguably the oldest European
LCBO
beer style for which we have hard, historic
evidence, “black beer” is a darker, older Selected Schwarzbiers
version of the Bavarian Dunkel. Schwarz- Kostritzer Schwarzbier (lcbo 696971) is
bier is very opaque whereas dunkel is Germany’s oldest Thuringia-styled black
clear. Its colour ranges from solid black to lager and one of the few true malted Geralmost chestnut-red, depending on the man treats imported by the LCBO. Dark
brown, stout-like colour; cocoa, malt
quantity of black patent malt in the
brewer’s grain bill. It produces very
and burnt coffee aromas; caramel and
mild, almost bittersweet, notes of
bitter chocolate tastes, creamy, clean
dry finish. LCBO
chocolate, coffee, and vanilla. Like
Brick Brewing’s Waterloo Dark,
most traditional German lagers,
from Ontario’s oldest craft brewer, is
Schwarzbier has very little nose and
a modest, light, easy to approach
up-front bitterness and is a very
schwarzbier. Light in body but still
approachable beer which has affinwith enough dark roast cocoa and
ity for a number of foods.
toast tones to satisfy the palate.
Selected Dunkels
Good quenching qualities with a
King Dark (lcbo 698399) from the
sandwich. TBS / LCBO
King Brewery in Nobleton is an
Food Pairings
award-winning local version of a
An Oktoberfest Märzen is a perMunich Dunkel from one of
fect companion for all the GerOntario’s best craft brewers.
manic
fest
food
like
Clear red brown in colour with
a thick foamy tan coloured
weisswurst, bratwursts and
head, with chocolate and tofOktoberfest wursts smothered
fee aromas and a light spice.
in butter-herbed wine sauerkraut. Fest Märzens are also at
The palate is rich and full,
home with most light tangy
delivering a clean bread-like
cheeses and fondue arrays or
taste with a hint of toasted
bread and pastry based meals.
chocolate.
Made
with
Dunkel lagers pair well with
imported
German
dark
wild mushroom soup, herbed
Munich malts and German
schnitzel with Portobello
hops. TBS / LCBO
hunter sauce, rich venison
Great Lakes Brewing’s Black
tourtiere or a braised beef
Jack lager (lcbo 679621) is a
roulade. Dark malty-cocoa
Canadianized version of a
dunkels also have an affinity
dunkel that has won craft brewwith chocolate desserts.
ing awards. Dark chestnut brown
Schwarzbier compliments oysters and
colour; roasted and toasted grain aromas
with caramel and oat notes. Hints of shellfish. I love the combination of a plate
chocolate, coffee and roasted barley of Kiwi mussels washed down with a
emerge in the flavour as it warms. LCBO
Kostritzer schwarzbier. For pure affinity,
Cameron’s 266 Dark (lcbo 679837) is a I’ve seen nothing like pairing Schlenkerla
North American hybrid dunkel. Very smoked märzen with earthy rich German
flavourful and another craft beer award cheeses or smoked cold cuts.
The Taste of the Month
The label on Great Lakes Brewing’s 666
Devil’s Pale Ale (lcbo 615880) says it all:
“The Devil Made Me Brew It! Brewed for
66.6 minutes with 666kg of
malt and 6.6kg of hops,
Devil’s Pale Ale is a robust ale
weighing in at 6.6% alcohol
(notice a theme yet?). Darker
than traditional pale ales, Devil’s Pale Ale
has an unmistakable hoppiness both in
aroma and taste, balanced by a selection
of 6 choice malts.” A great crafted rich
copper ale. Seasonal and in limited supply
at select LCBOs. LCBO
Michael Jackson: The Beer Hunter
I want to pay respect to a man all of us in
the “real beer revolution” owe a great deal.
August 30 saw the passing of one of the
giants in the craft brewing writer’s community. Michael Jackson passed on after a
long affliction with Parkinson’s Disease, an
illness he rarely talked about. Mr. Jackson
spent many of his 65 years sharing his passion for artisan beers with the public and
was one of the original advocates of the
campaign for real ale and the craft brewing renaissance.
Mr. Jackson’s educational TV series “The
Beer Hunter” (available on VHS and DVD)
remains the standard educational tool for
entering the world of better beer appreciation. On a personal note, I credit Mr.
Jackson’s writings as instrumental in my
personal development in appreciating
artisan beers. His impact was great and he
will be missed.
In remembrance, a transnational toast
37
in Michael Jackson’s honour took place on
September 30th. But it’s not too late yet to
raise a pint to “The Beer Hunter.” Just
make sure it’s the real stuff ! “The Malt Monk” is the alter ego of D.R. HAMMOND, an
industrial consultant by day and a passionate supporter of
craft beer culture in his spare time. A home brewer of many
years and an active reviewer and consumer of craft beers for as
long as he cares to remember, D.R. can be found anywhere
there is a celebration of the traditional craft brewing art and
good food.
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38
SEASONAL RECIPES
By Christine Scheer
ur dinners are becoming a bit
more substantial as the weather
cools off, and I cherish each vegetable, herb or piece of fruit that comes
from the garden, as it just might be the last
until next growing season. I am quite
enamoured with Ontario garlic this fall. I
can’t seem to get enough of its pungent
flavour, so I’ve used it in the classic sauce
aioli, which can be the perfect centre of a
crudité platter, or a memorable side
to grilled meat or vegetables.
Fall raspberries are just too delectable not to use, so they pair up with
traditional fall apple pie to make a
homey dessert suitable for company.
Enjoy this last glorious hurrah of
the garden!
O
Thyme-Crusted Roast Pork
Tenderloin
2 pork tenderloin, about 1 lb each
3 Tbsp (45 mL) Dijon mustard
3 Tbsp (45 mL) grainy Dijon mustard
3 Tbsp (45 mL) maple syrup
1 tsp (5 mL) salt
2 tsp (10 mL) cracked peppercorns
1½ cups (375 mL) chopped fresh thyme
Aioli
Aioli is simply garlic mayonnaise. It
goes with almost anything, and makes
a fantastic accompaniment to the pork
tenderloin. Don’t like the thought of
raw eggs? You can substitute ½ cup (60
mL) mayonnaise for the eggs, and omit
the oil.
2 eggs
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1 tsp Dijon mustard
¼ tsp salt
½ cup oil – canola, sunflower, safflower, or
“light” olive oil
chopped parsley
1
Break the eggs into the bowl of a food
processor. Add the garlic, mustard, and
salt. Process until smooth and creamy.
2
With the food processor running, slowly
drizzle in the oil through the tube of the
food processor. When the oil has all been
added it will look thick, smooth and shiny.
3
Serve sprinkled with parsley.
1
Heat oven to 375° F (18 ° C). Trim all excess
fat and silver skin from pork. Set aside.
2
In a small bowl, combine the mustards
with the maple syrup, salt, and peppercorns. Sprinkle thyme into a shallow dish.
Brush the mustard mixture all over the
pork, and then roll pork in thyme, coating it fairly evenly.
3
Place pork on rack in roasting pan. Place
in oven and roast for approximately 30
minutes, or until pork is just slightly pink
inside. You can cook it longer if you don’t
like any pink.
4
Let pork rest on a cutting board for 10
minutes before slicing it. Serve with aioli
on the side.
39
Ratatouille
Red Potato Mash
¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil
1½ cups (375 mL) zucchini, chopped
1 red pepper, seeded and diced
1 red onion, chopped, about 1½ cups (375
mL)
4 cloves garlic, minced
½ tsp (10 mL) salt
½ tsp (10 mL) black pepper
1 lb (450 g) fresh plum tomatoes, chopped
1 5.5 oz (156 mL) tin tomato paste
1 Tbsp (15 mL) dried basil
1 Tbsp (15 mL) dried oregano
1 eggplant, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2-3
cm) cubes, about 6 cups (1.5 L)
½ cup (125 mL) fresh basil, minced
5 lbs (2.5 kg) red potatoes, washed but not
peeled, cut into quarters
1/3 cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup (60 mL) butter
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 bunch green onions, chopped
1
2
Heat the oven to 350 ° F (180 ° C). Pour
the olive oil into a large ovenproof pan
set over high heat. Stir in the zucchini,
red pepper, red onion, and garlic. Sauté
for 5 minutes. Stir in the salt, pepper,
tomatoes, tomato paste, basil, oregano,
and eggplant. Remove from the heat.
Cover the pan with a lid and bake in the
oven for 30 minutes. Remove the ratatouille from the oven, stir in the fresh
basil. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.
Serves six to eight.
alway s mo re o n l i n e
1
Bring a large pot of water to the boil;
add about 2 tsp of salt. Scoop the potatoes into the boiling water, and let cook
until fork-tender. Drain the potatoes,
return them to the pot, and place on the
burner for about 60 seconds, so any
excess water will boil off.
2
Remove potatoes from heat, add the
olive oil and butter to the pan. Coarsely
mash the potatoes, you want lots of texture, so don’t over-do it! With a spatula,
fold in the salt and pepper.
3
Serve sprinkled with green onions.
Serves eight. CHRISTINE SCHEER is a chef who lives on an organic farm
with her husband and two daughters. She has cooked for
London area restaurants, owned a catering business, written
a Covent Garden Market cookbook, taught many cooking
classes and currently runs the Oakridge Superstore cooking
school. Her passions include using seasonal, local ingredients to create delicious fare, and teaching children how to
cook. Reach Christine at: [email protected]
Online, CHRISTINE SCHEER shares a great recipe
that deliciously completes the above autumn meal
suggestion. “Apple and Fall Raspberry Tart,” large
enough to serve 8-12, is just a click away!
40
TRAVEL
Carnival in Limoux
By Ann McColl Lindsay
aris greeted us with its lowest
temperature in 100 years. We
had to skid our suitcases over
the icy sidewalks from the hotel to the
Gare de Lyon. Striking workers meant
a three-hour wait before the train left
the freezing platform for Montpellier
on the warm Mediterranean.
Our final destination was an
ancient stone house in the village of
Caunes-Minervois at the base of the
Montaigne Noire in Languedoc. It
turned out to be as cold as it
sounded. Our landlord, Paul, invited
us over for a welcome-to-Caunes
drink and some orientation tips to
the area. Spirits lifted as the tray of
flutes filled with a local sparkling
wine was passed. “This is delicious,” I said.
“But I didn’t know that Champagne was
considered local.”
“You’re not drinking Champagne,” Paul
replied. “This is Blanquette de Limoux, a
methode ancestrale that the monks say
predates the more famous sparkler by 200
years.” Then he gave more interesting
P
Blanquette de Limoux
predates Champagne, the
more famous sparkling
wine, by 200 years.
Pierrots approached
with handfuls of
confetti.
news. “You’re here at the right time to
enjoy the fête de Limoux, a carnaval not to
be missed.”
On the next Sunday afternoon, following
Paul’s instructions, we drove through the
medieval walled town of Carcassonne,
across the Canal du Midi and took the secondary D118 road south to Limoux. Any
route through Languedoc weaves
past ruined Cathar castles, vineyards
and farms. But on this drive, we
glimpsed the white-capped Pyrenees
Mountains in the distance, fringed
by an orange sky, with the sun about
to start its descent.
Not much seemed to be happening on the quiet narrow lanes that
lead toward the Place de la Republique. No crowds, no tacky souvenir
booths, no street vendors or loudspeakers. The first sign of gaiety was
a group of men in pink tutus drinking at a small café. Encouraged, we
continued on to the main square
where small knots of locals stood
about with an air of expectancy.
The Place itself was worth a
detour. On each of the four sides,
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42
handsome brasseries opened their brasstrimmed doors onto the columned arcades
that surround the square. Normally, the
weekly market is held in the centre around
the ornate verdigris fountain, but on this
day, glasses of Blanquette were being
characterizations of local characters, foreign diplomats or the town council,
always come next in the parade. Protected
behind their disguise, they whisper secrets
into the crowd. After they passed, the
woman next to me blushed and said to her
neighbour, “He knows about me
going out with your brother.”
We danced with them around to
the Le Commerce Café and ordered
two flutes of sparkling Blanquette.
As we held up our glasses for an
encore, the miniature harlequin
appeared in the café door, followed
by the entire troupe, who showered
the room in buckets of white confetti. The scene became surreal
when the tubas and cymbals mingled with us at the bar, still playing
their instruments. The peanut vendor squeezed between them to sell
The ancient Limoux festival is us a bag.
This scenario is repeated at a
repeated every weekend from
January to Palm Sunday. leisurely pace in each of the other
cafés around the square until the
poured under a large tent. Well done so far. torches are lit at nine o’clock. The men of
By five o’clock, the crowds were three the town prepare these torches of straw
deep under all four arcades and distant and resin from a secret recipe handed
musical murmurings suggested that the down through the generations. They are
magic was about to start. An exquisitely calculated to burn for exactly two hours.
dressed group of masked pierrots, led by a The entire procedure is repeated every
child identically dressed in black and weekend from January to Palm Sunday,
white satin, slowly danced down the nar- when the king, a stuffed dummy set in the
row opening between the two lines
of spectators. They directed the hypnotic music of the brass band
behind them with the graceful gestures of their white gloved hands
waving long supple wands, called
carèbena. Ritualistic movements and
benign smiling white masks cast a
spell, broken as they approached
with handfuls of confetti to stuff
inside your clothing.
The sacks of confetti represent
grain thrown by the millers who
inaugurated the festival centuries
ago as an invocation for a bountiful
harvest. The Chamber of Commerce
did not dream all this up as a promo- The brass band slips through a
tion. It is rooted in folklore following narrow pathway between spectators
prescribed rules and procedures. For but continues playing as they later
instance, the goudils, burlesque mingle at the bar.
middle of the square, is burned along with
masks and wands.
It all reminded us of the ancient sun festivals held to encourage spring and the
renewal of the grape and the grain. As a
matter of fact, we noticed that it did warm
up considerably in our corner of Languedoc after the burning of the straw king.
ANN MCCOLL LINDSAY is a London-based writer and an
inveterate world traveller with her painter/photographer
husband David Lindsay. For three decades, they owned and
operated Ann McColl’s Kitchen Shop, still fondly remembered as a fine example of how to blend commerce and culture. They recently published Store Animals, a charmingly
written and illustrated account of the animals who played
an important role in the life of the business. Profits will benefit the London Humane Society.
Have a gastronomic travel story to
tell? Whether it’s a daytrip to a local gem or a
transcontinental adventure, the focus must be on
food and drink. Send your story (400-1000 words) to:
[email protected]. Winning entries will
receive a $50 gift certificate from a great restaurant!
“A delightfully charming story for
animal lovers of all ages.”
by Ann & David
Lindsay
David and Ann Lindsay owned and operated
Ann McColl’s Kitchen Shop with the help of their
animal friends in London
Ontario from 1969 to 2002.
Available at:
The Oxford Book Shop Ltd.
740 Richmond Street,
London ON N6A 1L6
519-438-8336
$9.95
Sales benefit The London Humane Society
Southwestern Ontario’s Largest Selection
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44
The Best Products
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Acrylic: Clear to Your Needs
Acrylic display products give your retail
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Acrylic display risers can add interest to
retail product displays. Acrylic vertical and
slant frames are perfect to hold promotional flyers
and messages and can be easily changed for each season or sale.
Keeping menus and other literature in neat and easily accessible
areas is a snap with acrylic holders. Clean up the clutter in service
areas by utilizing acrylic counter stands and wall racks.
Pastry Display Case
This is just one example of what
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Enjoy the lifestyle you deserve.
Look for Field Gate Organics.
45
MIXOLOGY
Catch a Fallen Angel
From Robinson Hall Bar & Grill
e went to Robinson Hall Bar &
Grill this month, a popular spot
for lunch and a drink after work,
and it attracts a lot of concert-goers and
the pre- and post-game hockey crowds.
The dark woods and wrought iron are set
off with soft lighting and numerous TVs
tuned to a variety of sports channels. On
Friday and Saturday nights, The Thorny
Devil bar and lounge upstairs features
dancing and a more up-tempo vibe.
W
Recipe courtesy of Robinson Hall Bar & Grill
The Fallen Angel
1½ oz Tanqueray London Dry Gin
2 dashes White Crème de Menthe
Juice of ½ lime
1 dash Fee’s Old Fashion Bitters
1 cherry for garnish
Shake all the ingredients (except for the
cherry) with ice and strain into a chilled
cocktail glass. Drop in the cherry and serve.
We spoke with General Manager Scot
Crawford, who gave us the recipe for “The ROBINSON HALL BAR & GRILL is located at 398 Talbot
Fallen Angel,” a popular cocktail these Street in London (www.robinsonhall.ca). It’s generally
days. “More women prefer the drink than closed Sunday to Tuesday, unless there is an event at the
men,” noted Scot, “but it’s also popular at John Labatt Centre. upstairs, THE THORNY DEVIL is open
The Thorny Devil in the form of a shooter. Friday and Saturday nights.
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46
THE LIGHTER SIDE
Small Talk: Dining with Children
By Cecilia Buy
il and water, plaids and stripes.
Some combinations were never
meant to be, including, in the opinion of some, children and restaurants. And
small wonder, if the children in question
are of the “free range” variety, allowed to
roam at will, uninhibited by the restrictions of social convention. But ours are not
like that, of course, and properly prepared
we can enjoy dining out, without causing
any discomfort to our fellow bon vivants.
Most of us enjoy eating away from home,
and children are no exception. We are
relieved of the mundanities of preparation
and cleaning up, enjoy the change of venue
and menu and the sense of occasion. Even
our everyday companions, transported
from our habitual environment, often
seem more interesting and agreeable.
But like blending eggs and oil in producing a palatable mayonnaise, mixing
children and restaurants requires that you
follow certain procedures. After a few
attempts, you will be able to do it with
ease and confidence. One caveat, though:
do not presume that your childless acquaintances will enjoy sharing these experiences with you. A few pointers:
Start ’em young, and keep it short.
Adults don’t generally eat before going out
to eat. This does not apply with babies. A
well-fed (and freshly-diapered) infant is a
happy infant, one who will be content to
survey a novel environment with gurgles
of interest and amusement, instead of
cries of discontent.
For Baby’s early outings, consider a café
or bistro rather than a five-star restaurant.
The atmosphere is more casual, and the
staff less apt to tell you on sight that,
regretfully, they have no available seating.
While you savour your Chardonnay, Baby
can quaff from his drinking cup (with
which you have, of course, come
equipped) and jaw on a bread stick.
Twenty minutes, perhaps, and you both
O
emerge refreshed, your pleasure in each
other’s company reinforced.
Teach toddler table manners. If you
cannot yet dine with civility at your own
table, don’t even consider taking your
child to any establishment where unsuspecting members of the public might be
enjoying themselves. But when you have
mastered the basics (correct use of cutlery
and napkins, mealtime conversation, and
asking to be excused before leaving the
table), then you are ready for the next step:
Casual Dining.
Do your child the courtesy of informing
them in advance of what to expect in
terms of cuisine and procedure. And keep
in mind that the best-raised child can go
amok, usually when you least desire it. For
this reason, “child-friendly” establishments
are a wise choice in the initial stages.
Go equipped into battle. For the first
few months of Baby’s existence, you don’t
step out the door without being fully
armed, i.e. diaper bag and accoutrements.
Likewise, restauranting with older children requires packing supplies. Provide
diversions. Books of course are acceptable, as are paper and pens, and small
toys. Please leave at home toys that come
with their own noise.
Expand the repertoire. By all means,
encourage in your child a willingness to be
venturesome with the victuals, but don’t
push it. The experience should be for their
pleasure as well as edification, and it’s a
safe bet that long before they are grown
up, they will have moved beyond hamburgers and pasta.
One last tip, from my child to yours. “If
they serve you hors d’oeuvres or cake,
you’re allowed to use your fingers.” CECILIA BUY is a mother, writer and designer who has
enjoyed living and dining in London for the past 17 years. Her
son is an adventurous and discerning dining companion.
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WEB1
RESTAURANTS
More from Woolfy’s at Wildwood
Recipe courtesy of Chris Woolf
Baked Stuffed Lemon Fondu
with Basil
PeR PeRSOn, you need:
1 large lemon
1 cherry tomato
basil
2 oz Saganaki cheese, grated
Pita bread, toasted
1
Cut a lemon in half length-ways and
scoop out the flesh with a spoon.
2
Place a small amount of grated cheese in
bottom of lemon. Place a cherry tomato
cut in half and some chopped basil.
Cover with more cheese to overflowing.
3
Bake in a moderate oven or under the
broiler until cheese has melted.
4
Serve with toasted pita bread to dip into
the hot cheese.
WEB2
BOOKS
More from Lucy’s Kitchen
Recipes courtesy of Lucy Waverman, Lucy’s Kitchen: Signature Recipes and Culinary Secrets (Random House Canada Ltd, 2006)
Oeufs en Cocotte
Brownie Pudding
4 eggs
2 Tbsp butter
6 oz (175 g) mixed mushrooms, sliced
4 cups baby spinach
1 cup whipping cream
2 drops truffle oil
1 cup all-purpose flour
2⁄3cup cocoa
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
6 Tbsp butter
½ cup chopped bittersweet chocolate
2 eggs
1 cup granulated sugar
½ cup milk
1 tsp vanilla
½ cup brown sugar
11⁄3cups boiling water
1
2
Break eggs into four buttered 1-cup
ramekins. Place a tiny knob of butter on
each egg.
3
Place ramekins in a deep baking dish
large enough to hold all ramekins. Fill
baking dish with boiling water until it
comes halfway up sides of ramekins.
Place baking dish in oven and bake eggs
for 8 to 10 minutes, or until egg yolks are
just set but still runny. (Eggs will continue to cook after sauce has been
added.)
4
Prepare sauce while eggs are cooking.
Heat remaining butter in a large skillet
over high heat. Add mushrooms and
sauté for about 3 minutes, or until just
cooked. Add spinach and cook for 1
minute, or just until spinach wilts.
1
2
Sift flour, 1⁄3cup cocoa, baking powder
and salt into a bowl.
3
Melt butter and chocolate in a small
heavy pot over low heat. Remove from
heat and cool slightly.
4
Whisk eggs, granulated sugar, milk and
vanilla in a bowl until well combined.
Add melted chocolate mixture and flour
mixture and stir until batter is just combined.
5
Spread batter evenly in a greased 8-inch
square baking pan.
5
Add cream to skillet and bring to a boil.
Season with salt and pepper and add a
drop or two of truffle oil.
6
Whisk remaining 1⁄3 cocoa powder,
brown sugar and boiling water in a bowl.
Pour mixture over batter.
6
Spoon mushroom mixture over eggs.
Remove from water bath and serve at
once.
7
Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until a
tester comes out clean but cake still has
a little wiggle. Do not overbake.
Serves 6.
WEB3
WINE
More about Superfoods
Recipe courtesy of Shari Darling
Here’s a healthy pumpkin soup to warm you
during the cool autumn evenings, with
matching wines. Enjoy!
Curried Pumpkin Soup
2 Tbsp (25 mL) olive oil
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
2 stalks celery, cut into 2-inch lengths
3 large carrots, peeled and sliced ¼-inch (6
mm) thick
2 lbs (1 kg) pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and
cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) dice
3 cups (750 mL) low-salt chicken stock
1 bay leaf
2 tsp (10 mL) curry powder
1 tsp (5 mL) turmeric
sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
¼ cup (50 mL) shelled raw pumpkin seeds
2 Tbsp (25 mL) chopped fresh parsley
fat free sour cream (for garnish)
3
Meanwhile, in a small sauté pan, over
medium heat, heat remaining 1 Tbsp (15
mL) oil. Add pumpkin seeds and season
with salt. Fry, shaking pan, until seeds
are golden. Remove from heat.
4
Fold parsley into vegetables and broth.
In a food processor or blender, add 2
cups (500 mL) of vegetables and broth.
Puree until smooth. Stir smooth mixture
back into pan. Adjust seasonings.
5
Place soup in bowls garnished with a
dollop of sour cream and pumpkin
seeds.
Serves Four
1
2
In a large pan over medium heat, heat 1
Tbsp (15 mL) oil. Add the garlic and
onion and sauté, stirring occasionally,
until onion is translucent, about 6 minutes.
Add celery and carrots. Sauté for 5 more
minutes. Add pumpkin, chicken stock,
bay leaf, curry, turmeric, salt, and pepper
to taste. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and
let simmer until vegetables are tender,
about 10 minutes.
WiNE SUGGESTiON: California Zinfandel or
Australian Shiraz. Choose a red wine with
soft tannin (bitterness) and lots of ripe berry
flavour. The soft tannin will not contrast with
the curry spice. Its high alcohol gives the
wine enough weight to match the weight of
pumpkin. Its fruitiness also pairs nicely with
the subtle sweetness in pumpkin.
WEB4
SEASONAL RECIPES
More from
Recipe courtesy of Christine Scheer
Apple and Fall Raspberry Tart
Using puff pastry really speeds up the making
of this tart. You can also substitute your own
favourite tart pastry if you’d like.
1 pkg frozen puff pastry dough, 2 sheets,
thawed
6 apples, peeled and sliced (try northern
Spy, Spartan, Red Delicious, Ida Red)
1 Tbsp (15 mL) fresh lemon juice
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
2 Tbsp (30 mL) all purpose flour
1 tsp (5 mL) cinnamon
2 cups (500 mL) fresh raspberries (you can
use frozen, just keep them frozen)
2 Tbsp (30 mL) cream
2 Tbsp (30 mL) coarse sugar,
such as demerara
Streusel:
½ cup (125 mL) all purpose
flour
½ cup (125 mL) rolled oats
½ cup (125 mL) brown sugar
½ cup (125 mL) butter, cubed
1
Make streusel first: combine all ingredients in
bowl of food processor.
Pulse until mixture
resembles coarse
crumbs. Set aside.
2
Heat oven to 375° F (180° C). Lay out 1
sheet of puff pastry into either a nonstick rimmed baking sheet (approximately 9x13 inches), or a rectangular
removable bottom flan pan (recommended). Roll or press out pastry to fit
pan with a bit of an overhang.
3
In a large bowl, stir together the apples
with the lemon juice, granulated sugar,
flour and cinnamon. Scoop onto puff pastry-lined pan. Sprinkle with raspberries.
4
Sprinkle streusel over fruit. Cut remaining piece of puff pastry into 1 cm-wide
strips. Place strips alternately on top of
streusel, creating a “woven” look. Brush
strips of pastry with cream, and then
sprinkle with coarse sugar.
5
Place in oven and bake for approximately 30 minutes, until apples are
tender and pastry is puffed and golden.
Beware! This tart tends to over-flow, so
place a larger baking sheet on the bottom rack of your oven to catch the
drips—it can be messy!
Makes 1 tart, serves 8-12.

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