CALENDAR - The Underfashion Club

N E W S L E T T E R
O F
T H E
U N D E R FA S H I O N
May 2006
C L U B,
I N C.
Issue Number 3
CALENDAR
Wednesday, May 24 at 10 am
152 Madison Avenue – Suite 1002
Underfashion Club Annual Membership Meeting.
For additional information, please contact the UFC Office at 845-758-6405.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CALENDAR
1
Wednesday, June 7
Underfashion Club Seminar: Fall 2007/08
Lingerie Trends at The CUNY Graduate Center
For additional information, please contact the UFC Office.
PROFILE
2–3
INTERN INSIGHTS
4–5
Market Week
July 31– August 4
STUDENT DESIGN
CONTEST WINNERS
4–5
Wednesday, August 2
Intimate Apparel Council
FIT CURRICULUM
6
INTIMATE NEWS:
LIGHTWEIGHT BRAS
7
Presentation by Robert Skinner, President & Chief Executive Officer,
Kellwood Company. For additional information, please contact
Mary Howell at 703-797-9045.
Market Week
October 31– November 3
CONGRATULATIONS TO:
JOHN-PAUL BROGAN
OF MAGIC LINK – NEW YORK
winner of a $25
Victoria’s Secret
gift certificate for correctly
guessing the address of our
architectural detail:
Wednesday, November 1
Intimate Apparel Square Club
H.U.G. Award Dinner
For additional information, please contact the IASC Office at 845-758-5752.
Intimate Apparel Council
Presentation by Marshal Cohen, Chief Industry Analyst,The NPD Group.
For additional information, please contact Mary Howell.
183 MADISON AVENUE
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C L U B,
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May 2006
PROFILE: Betsey Johnson
B
etsey was born in Connecticut and spent her childhood in dance classes.
Her aspirations to be a dancer and her love for costumes laid the foundation for
Betsey’s creativity and inspiration, which is still evident in her designs today. In 1964,
Betsey officially entered the New York fashion scene by winning Mademoiselle
magazine’s “Guest Editor Contest.” One year later, she landed the top designer
position for Paraphernalia, a clothing boutique that at the time housed the hottest
young London designers, including Mary Quant and Tuffin and Foale, among others.
What would soon become known as Betsey’s trademark look began its formulations
here: sexy silhouettes, hippie inspired flowing fabrics, whimsical detailing and, most
importantly, a fabulous fit.
N
ew York designer Betsey
Johnson has built her long-standing
career in fashion by following her
own set of rules. Known for her
celebration of the exuberant, the
embellished, and the over the top,
Betsey has been rocking the fashion
industry with her unique and
original designs since the 1960’s. Her
commitment to remain true to her
one-of-a-kind vision has afforded
Betsey continued success in an
industry known for its fickleness.
Her ability to change with the
times while keeping her designs
pure has not gone unnoticed. At
the 1999 CFDA Awards, Betsey
was presented The Timeless Talent
Award created especially for her,
which recognized her influence on
fashion throughout her career.
Now firmly part of what was considered the “Youth Quake,” Betsey soon found
herself in the unforgettable 1960’s Warhol scene. Edie Sedgwick was her house model,
while the Velvet Underground’s John Cale took to wearing her designs both on-stage
and off. In 1969, Betsey began her foray into retail by opening a new boutique
called Betsey Bunki Nini. Directly following the opening store, Betsey was offered
a job from Alvin Dunskin in San Francisco and thus began living a bi-coastal life for
the remaining years of the 60’s.
Along with the new decade came new career opportunities for Betsey and in
the early 1970’s, she came into creative control of the label Alley Cat, a label
which set the trends for the 70’s rock n’ roll clothing, with bohemian and ethnic
styles. In 1972, along with Halston, Betsey won the coveted Coty Award
becoming the youngest designer to ever receive the honor.
After a decade of designing for other labels, Betsey decided to make a dramatic
change in her life and in 1978, she formed a partnership with Chantal Bacon and
started the Betsey Johnson label, as it is known today. Designing for herself allowed
Betsey the creative freedom to execute her vision to it’s fullest potential. The same
year Betsey and Chantal launched their first retail store in the heart of Soho.
In the early 80’s, they were one of the first to open a store on Melrose Avenue in
Los Angeles, helping the street to gain its worldwide recognition as one of the best
shopping areas of the 1980’s. Today there are over forty-five Betsey Johnson stores
worldwide. International expansion came in 1998 with the opening of the wildly
popular London store and in 1999 the Vancouver store opened its doors. Toronto
opened in early September 2003 and Honolulu, Hawaii debuted in September 2004
in the luxury mall of Ala Moana. Betsey Johnson clothing is also available in better
department stores as well as in over 1000 specialty stores throughout the country,
and in Europe and Japan. In April 2005, Betsey opened her very first franchise store
in Dubai, which boasts the largest shopping center in the Middle East.
Continued on page 3.
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May 2006
Continued from page 2.
The year 2003 marked some exciting licensing endeavors for the company,
taking Betsey’s signature prints and whimsy to new audiences with categories
including shoes and lingerie. She continued this trend and has since added
handbags, belts, cold weather accessories, eyewear, watches, jewelry,
swimwear, and home thus effectively emerging as not only a clothing
designer but a top American Lifestyle brand.
In late 2002, Betsey was honored with an induction into the Fashion
Walk of Fame, honoring her contribution to American fashion. A bronze
and granite plaque containing an original sketch, signature and biography
was embedded into Seventh Avenue sidewalk in early 2003. In March 2005,
the Signature Awards and NAWBO-NYC committee honored Betsey with
the 2005 Lifetime Achievement Award. Following that, Betsey received the
Lifetime Achievement Award from the Accessories Council in November
2005. And, on May 15 of this year, Betsey was named “Designer of the
Year” at the American Apparel and Footwear Association’s American Image
Awards Dinner.
“Making clothes involves what I like…
color, pattern, shape and movement…
I like the everyday process…the people,
the pressure, the surprise of seeing the
work come alive walking and dancing
around on strangers. Like red lipstick
on the mouth, my clothes wake up and
brighten and bring the wearer to life…
drawing attention to her beauty and
specialness…her moods and movements
… her dreams and fantasies.”
– Betsey Johnson
In 2003, while on vacation in Mexico, Betsey bought a magical little hotel, which she named “Betseyville” and proceeded to
turn it into a dream vacation home, where she regularly visits to work and get inspired. She fell so in love with the culture and
surroundings that in 2004, Betsey purchased a second house in Mexico, this one dubbed “Villa Betsey.” Always loving a home
project Betsey decided to turn Betseyville back into a hotel and is currently re-doing Villa Betsey to become her main home
in Mexico. Both homes abound with Betsey’s signature touches and “Betseyville” was exclusively featured in In Style Homes
in April 2005.
A survivor of breast cancer, Betsey continues to be a strong advocate in the fight against the disease, making public appearances,
participating in numerous fund raising events and creating one-of-a-kind items that have been auctioned off to raise funds for
various charities. In 2003, the CFDA asked her to be an Honorary Chairperson for the Fashion Targets Breast Cancer initiative,
which she graciously accepted. In April of 2004, she was awarded another honor by the National Breast Cancer Coalition
(NBCC) for her continuous fight against Breast Cancer at a prestigious ceremony hosted by Ron Perlman. In Spring of 2004,
she teamed up with Geralyn Lucas, the author of the book “Why I Wore Lipstick...to my Mastectomy,” designing an accompanying
t-shirt which was launched in Betsey Johnson stores nationwide in October 2004 at a series of events called “Courage Nights.”
Courage Night continued for its second year in October 2005 where CFDA Fashion Targets Breast Cancer and SELF Magazine
joined the cause.
Betsey Johnson, both the woman and the label, is constantly moving forward and continues to keep a strong foothold in the
fashion industry with no signs of letting up anytime soon. Her love of detail and design is evident in everything she does in life
and in business, and her enthusiasm, creativity and boundless talent that have kept her at the forefront of fashion for the past
30 years will keep Betsey going for years to come.
As one journalist recently quoted, “If Betsey Johnson didn’t exist, we would have to invent her, simply to remind ourselves
that fashion can be fun. She’s the original wild child and set to paint the town pink!” ■
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May 2006
INTERN INSIGHTS
SAIG kicked off the 2006/2007 Scholarship
and 2006 Summer Internship season with
a seminar held at FIT on March 9, 2006.
Tina Wilson,Vice President of Design at Carole Hochman also
spoke and explained her path from Parsons to her present
position and some of the career choices available in Intimates.
An enthusiastic, responsive audience of about forty students
attended from the Fashion Design, Fashion Merchandising
Management, Production Management and Patternmaking
Technology curricula. All were interested in the potential
of receiving one of approximately 11 scholarships and/or
19 internships.
Janet Malecki, past UFC president and current FIT professor of
Fashion Merchandising spoke regarding the many opportunities
in that segment of our business.
Two current FIT students who have been internship and
scholarships awardees, Mary Ntiri and Morgan Oughton, spoke
about the valuable, broadening experience of internships and
urged students to "Ask questions!" Both also thanked the UFC
for their scholarships without which they may not have been
able to continue their studies.
Two former students (and past SAIG winners) now working
in the industry, Ali Iamartino of Dana-Co and Elissa Decker
of Carole Hochman Designs, Inc. talked of the possibility of
internships leading to rewarding full time employment.
FIT was represented by Colette Wong, Assistant Chair of the
Fashion Design Department, Amy Mato, a counselor at FIT's
Internship Center and Mina Friedman from the Financial Aid
Office.
Several Underfashion Club board members were on hand
to lend their support, including Roz Harte who was given a
warm round of applause when it was announced that she is
in our business for 60 years!
Companies interested in sponsoring a paid internship or
in additional scholarship opportunities should contact the
Underfashion Club office by phone at 845-758-6405 or by
email at [email protected]. ■
2006 Student Design Contest Winner
Rael Cohen
At the Femmy Gala on February 28, Rael Cohen was chosen by
the event attendees as this year’s Student Design Contest Winner.
Rael is 22 years old and currently a senior at FIT. She is an
Underfashion Club scholarship recipient and will be finishing
her BFA with a concentration in Intimate Apparel this May.
Rael has a particular love of corsetry and foundations, and hopes
to work for a company based out of New York or Buenos Aires,
which focuses on these areas of production.
Continued on page 5.
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N E W S L E T T E R
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May 2006
Continued from page 4.
The winners of the 2006 Student Design Contest, whose theme was “Luxurious and/or Exotic
Locations.” were from left to right: First Place – Rael Cohen (Dubai, United Arab Emirates);
Second Place – Athena Wrann (Henley on Thames, England);Third Place – Lorraine Wladessa
(Monte Carlo, Monaco)
Mary Ntiri
Titian Rutkin
Donna Tsui
Morgan Oughton
Teresa Lundy
Yoon Jeong Bang
Kirsi Ceballos
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREI JACKAMETS • HARDSHADOW.COM
Additional
FIT students
who competed
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May 2006
FIT TO LAUNCH NEW CURRICULUM
FOR A CHANGING INDUSTRY
BY COLETTE L. WONG, Assistant Chair, Associate Professor, Fashion Design, FIT
S
tarting this Fall, there will be a fundamental change in how Intimate Apparel students are educated at
the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. For the last six to eight years, FIT’s fashion design
department has been undergoing a re-tooling of its world famous AAS 2-year fashion design degree and
the total revamping of the BFA degree program. With constant change in the industry and the import trade,
the job of designer in today’s world is vastly different than just a few years ago. With a proper industry education
becoming crucial to success, emphasis must be placed on those elements that best prepare a design student
for the challenges they and the industry will face in the future. Students need to be proficient in a variety of
computer software, have more hands-on experience, and develop better presentation skills before they join
the work force. We believe our new curriculum choices will address these needs and produce well-rounded
and knowledgeable designers.
The new program will start in the 5th semester of
the BFA program with all fashion design students taking
classes in common. Students will be offered related
classes of business and production in the major area
of knit design as well as “cut and sew” knowledge.
They will begin their advanced art skill with a new
class, “The 20th Century Designer”, as well as receive
intensive computer technology training. Students will
also be given the opportunity to sign up for their chosen
track (primary focus) for the remaining 3 semesters.
These tracks will include: Sportswear/Performance,
Knitwear, Special Occasions, Childrenswear and
Intimate Apparel.
The students choosing Intimate Apparel will be
treated to a 6th semester offering an Introduction to
the Intimate Apparel Industry, control wear design,
sewing techniques and art skills.
The 7th semester will concentrate on foundation
design with a professional fitting class to teach students
about fit.They will take a grading and pattern making
class on foundations, and produce a comprehensive
portfolio of sleepwear, lounge, daywear and foundation
designs
The creative work will carry forward to their 8th
semester Senior Collection work.The culmination of
their studies in Intimate Apparel will be the production
of a Collection that will be showcased in a professional
runway fashion show. Along with this work, students
will be producing in the E-portfolio class a digital
resume and portfolio to help them in their job search.
The all important industry experience will be realized
with the required 10 hour Internship class, by which
students will be placed with a company and get a first
hand look at the industry.
A key step in implementing the new program
involves reaching out to industry professionals willing
to help teach some of the new curriculum. Possibly
someone like YOU! Not a full time job mind you, but
a few hours a week for 15 weeks. We will need a
variety of designers, pattern makers, foundation and
control wear specialists, experienced artists and artisans
with comprehensive knowledge of the current industry
to help us prepare future generations of intimate
apparel professionals. With your help and support of
the new program, we can continue to provide our
industry with fresh, young talented designers. ■
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N E W S L E T T E R
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May 2006
INTIMATE NEWS
BY EDGAR TRINIDAD, on behalf of RadiciSpandex Corporation
“Lightweight” Bras Pack a Profitable Punch
T
hese days it’s a compliment
to be called a lightweight in the
intimate apparel market, at least
when it comes to the bras you
make. High-tech bras that promise
the ultimate experience in nearweightless comfort are popping
up all over the market, from
department stores to specialty
chains to the mass channel.
Driven by the constant demand
for innovation in an increasingly
technical category, the newest
intimates are hitting retail with
a decidedly futuristic spin.
Not surprisingly, the first brand to
make a high-profile splash with a
lightweight line was Victoria’s
Secret. Armed with a multimilliondollar advertising budget, America’s
most prolific lingerie marketer
unveiled IPEX with a carefully
orchestrated rollout campaign
timed to launch the very day
the product hit the retail floor.
Victoria’s Secret deviated slightly
from its customary “come hither”
advertising with a tagline that
trumpeted IPEX as “The World’s
Most Advanced Bra.”
Victoria’s Secret wasn’t alone in
pushing the lightweight trend.
VF Corporation’s Vassarette
brand introduced the concept at
mass stores with the BodyCurves
UltraLights Collection, which was
hyped as Sexy Fun intimates with
“High Fashion Low Weight.” At
the department store level, brands
such as Wacoal and Maidenform
have introduced their versions of
the ultimate bra — the iBra and
the Dream Bra, respectively.
Wacoal’s iBra touts its
“Ultracomfort” based on what
it doesn’t have — it is seamless,
stitchless and tagless with a
minimalist silhouette.The Dream
Bra, meanwhile, is presented as
the embodiment of Maidenform’s
dream-themed magazine campaign
with ads showing a goddess-like
model posed in a pristine, white
setting. Ad copy highlights a smooth
contour under clothes and stretchto-fit comfort.
It’s telling that the Dream bra is
showcased in white, which remains
a top-selling color. In fact, makers
are striving to achieve the lightest
shade of
white possible
according to RadiciSpandex Sales Manager Kim Hall.
“We’ve noticed an uptick in
customer requests for our S17B
fiber,” notes Hall. “It has optical
brighteners that result in a fabric
with a cleaner white, which is what
brands are looking for in these
new, very modern bra lines. Since
the bras are more functional,
styling is kept to a minimum and
colors are pure and very wearable.”
Consumers can expect to see
more ethereal intimates coming
their way, as the superlight trend
shows no signs of abating.
Maidenform has already announced
plans to roll out this year a lightweight product called, appropriately
enough, the Lite Collection. And,
in response to consumer demands
for white underwear that maintains
its whiteness, even after repeated
washings, Invista has developed
Super White Lycra ®, a new white
elastane for superior whiteness
durability in intimates, including
moulded garments. ■
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