Picture Smocking for Beginners

Picture Smocking
• for Beginners •
A very special gift from
Australian Smocking & Embroidery
Working S tacked C ables
T
he technique of stacking cables is
usually referred to as picture smocking
as it can create blocks of solid colour
which can be used to form pictures,
figures, motifs or scenes.
Stacking refers to the placement
of cable stitches in parallel rows,
with each row a mirror image
of the previous row.
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H ints for successful
P icture S mocking
Always strip and reassemble the thread before
starting (see page 3).
As you stitch, take a deeper bite of the pleat
P
S
than with geometric smocking. Try stitching
approximately 2⁄ 3 to 3⁄ 4 from the top of the pleat.
Keep every stitch at a consistent depth.
Ensure that the needle is parallel with the pleating
threads at all times.
Stop stitching frequently and untwist the thread.
Unthread the needle and run the eye between
the strands to separate them. Alternatively, let the
needle and thread dangle freely and allow the
thread to untwist.
Keep the tension of the stitches even and not
too tight. The pleats should lie side by side and
should not be visibly pulled in by the stitches.
The tension is generally slightly looser than
geometric smocking.
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1
P
P reparing
the
Fabric
icture smocking is best worked on pleats which are close together
but not quite touching. Because the picture smocking itself has little
elasticity, it is best not to attempt to stretch the panel excessively
after smocking to fit a blocking guide. Backsmocking is usually
required on picture smocked panels to prevent the pleats from
gaping in the unsmocked areas. Backsmocking can be worked
before beginning the picture smocking or it can be worked after
it has been completed. We have used contrasting thread for the
backsmocking for photographic purposes.
2
1. Pleats too widely spaced
2. Pleats too close together.
3. Pleats well spaced for
picture smocking.
4. Backsmocking can be
done before or after picture
smocking. Some suitable
stitches for backsmocking are
cable, stem, outline and trellis.
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W
P reparing
the
T hread
hen stitching, the aim is to keep all strands of the
thread parallel and not twisted, so that the thread is more
like ribbon in appearance. Thorough preparation of the
thread helps to keep the stitches smooth and even.
1. Hold the length of stranded
cotton approx-imately 2.5cm
(1″) from the end. Separate
one strand and pull slowly to
remove it.
2. Repeat until all the strands
have been separated.
3. Re-assemble four strands
and thread the needle.
Ensure that the threads lie
side by side.
4. Tip: press, or spray starch
and press the stripped
threads to achieve a ribbon
like effect.
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3
R
S tacked C able R ectangles
ectangles created by stacked cables are worked by turning
the work upside down for alternate rows and working a mirror
image of the previous row. It is important that the cables
extending at each end are straight and even.
1. Bring the thread to the front
in the valley between the first
two pleats. Take the needle to
the left through the first pleat,
picking up about two thirds of
the pleat, ready to start the row.
2. With the thread below the
needle, work an under cable.
Make sure the threads are still
laying side by side.
3. Work the required number of
cables, ending with an under
cable. Untwist the thread
when necessary.
4. Turn the work upside down.
Start the next row by taking
the needle from right to left
through the first pleat, two
needle widths below the
previous row.
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E
nsure that all stitches are uniform and smooth with each strand
of thread parallel and untwisted. Stitches can be adjusted with
the eye of the needle or your fingernail. Do not move on to the
next stitch until you are satisfied with the one just worked.
h
5. Stitch an under cable
through the second pleat.
6. Work to the end of the row.
Stitch the final under cable
with the thread above the
needle. The thread is now
ready to start the next row.
7. Turn the work. Take the
needle from right to left
through the first pleat. Work
an under cable.
8. Stitch to the end of the
row and continue for the
required number of rows.
Completed stacked cable
rectangle.
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5
S tacked C able R ectangles
with S traight E dges
6
1. Stitch a row of cable
beginning and ending with
an under cable.
2. Turn the work upside
down and take the needle
from right to left through the
first pleat, just below the last
cable.
3. With the thread over the
needle, take two tiny satin
stitches a needle’s width
apart over the first pleat.
4. Beginning with an under
cable, work a mirror image
of the previous row.
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Y
our picture smocking design may require rectangles with
one or more straight edges. Use this method to fill in
the gaps left at the side edges of stacked cable rectangles.
k
5. Stitch two satin stitches over
the last pleat to fill in the gap
above the last cable. Take the
needle to the back and reemerge at the starting point
for the next row.
6. Turn the work right side up.
Take the needle from right
to left through the first pleat
ready to start the row.
7. Continue, filling in the gaps
at the sides with satin stitch
for the required number of
rows. Completed stacked cable
rectangle with straight edges.
8. On The Train Lover, the
sides of the wheat car have
straight edges.
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I ncreasing in
P icture S mocking
8
1. Stitch the base row of cables,
beginning with an over cable.
Stitch the last over cable with
the thread below the needle
so that the thread emerges in
the correct position to start
the next row.
2. Turn work upside down.
Angling the needle, take it
down through the two pleats
to the left, a needle width
below the previous row.
3. Beginning with an under
cable, work a mirror image
of the previous row. Work
the last under cable with the
thread above the needle.
4. Turn the work right side up.
Angling the needle, take it up
through the two pleats to the
left, two needle widths above
the previous row, ready to start
the next row.
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T
here are several methods used to shape an object or
figure by increasing the number of stitches used. Here
we show one method.
R
5. Beginning with an over
cable, complete the row,
ending with an over cable.
6. Continue increasing for the
required number of rows.
Completed increasing.
•
H I N T
•
B
7. The shaping at the top
of the passenger car on
The Train Lover is formed
by increasing.
e aware of the
appearance of your
thread. If it starts to look
slightly frayed or dull,
immediately end off and
use a new length.
Similarly, if you need
to unpick any stitches,
do not reuse the thread.
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9
D ecreasing
10
in
P icture S mocking
1. Stitch the base row of
cables, beginning with an
under cable. On the last
under cable, angle the needle
up, emerging in the valley
above the last over cable.
2. Turn the work upside
down. Take the needle
through the pleat to the left,
ready to start the second
row.
3. Work cable to the end of
the row. On the last over
cable, angle the needle
through the last two pleats,
emerging in the valley below.
4. Turn the work. Take the
needle through the pleat to
the left to begin the third
row. Complete the row in
the same manner as step 1.
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T
here are several methods to shape an object
or figure by decreasing the number of
stitches used. Here we show one method.
Q
5. Continue decreasing
at each end of every row
until you reach the desired
number of cables.
Completed decreasing.
6. On The Train Lover,
decreasing forms the
shaping of the wheat and
the coal in its car.
•
H I N T
•
U
Tip: use the eye of the
needle to settle each stitch
into place. If you are not
happy with a stitch, remove
it and stitch it again.
se an appropriate needle.
For four or
five strands, try a no. 6 or 7
crewel needle. The needle
needs to create a large
enough hole in the fabric
so that the thread passes
through without excessive
wear. The eye needs to
accommodate four or five
strands of thread easily.
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11
T
E nding
off the
T hread
here are several methods for ending off the thread
in the middle or at the end of a row.
Our example shows one of these methods.
wrong side
1. Complete the last stitch.
Take the needle through the
valley between the last two
pleats.
wrong side
wrong side
3. Pull the stitch firmly
without distorting the pleats.
Take another back stitch,
leaving a small loop.
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2. Pull the thread through to
the wrong side, emerging at
the top of a pleat. Take a tiny
back stitch through the top
of the next pleat to the right.
4. Pass the needle through
the loop and pull firmly. The
knot will slide down onto
the pleat. Trim the thread to
approximately 6mm (1⁄4").
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J oining
T
in a new thread
in the middle of a row
his method is used in geometric smocking
and in picture smocking.
wrong side
1. Knot the end of the new
thread and trim. On the
wrong side, take a tiny stitch
from right to left through the
pleat used to tie off the old
thread.
•
2. Bring the needle to the
front through the valley
between the last two pleats
stitched and continue
stitching.
H I N T
•
U
se an appropriate number of strands for the
fabric. You may find if you are using a very
dark background and a very light coloured
thread, that you may need an extra strand of
thread to provide adequate coverage. Keep in
mind that the extra thread will make your stitches
and the entire design slightly larger.
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13
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n every issue
you
will find
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