as a PDF

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as a PDF

www.eurocosmetics-magazine.com
We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality
English/German
Contents:
Editorial
5
Names and News
6
Interview:
“We are growing in our
Customers’ Markets”
A conversation with Dierk Schröder,
Managing Director
of the Edelmann Group
9
The Beneficial Role of Antioxidants in
Expanding Photoprotection:
A Detailed Biochemical Analysis
of Skin Aging and Skin Cancer
13
By Steven Q. Wang, MD and Judy Y. Hu, MD
Phytosterol-rich Extracts
and Anti-Aging Benefits
16
By Dr. Karl-Werner Quirin
Intelligent Delivery Systems
for Enhancing the Performance
of Active Ingredients in
Skin Care Formulations
20
By Ameann DeJohn and Meyer R. Rosen
All About Skin
Down To Earth The Coming Cosmetic Trend
23
By Greentech
New Ingredients
24
HBA Global 2011
28
POWTECH / TechnoPharm 2011
29
Cosmoprof North America 2011
30
Luxe Pack Monaco 2011
31
New Products
32
Packaging and Machines
35
A Simple, Unique Technology
for Converting Standard Microscopes
into Three Dimensional Image Viewers
36
By Pam Frost Gorder and Allen Yi
Events
39
Market-Place
40
Advertiser’s Index
43
Impressum
43
THE INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE FOR COSMETICS
AND FRAGRANCES
FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH · [email protected] · www.flavex.com
July/August 2011
19. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 19
7/8-2011
2
EURO COSMETICS
5 Editorial
6 Namen und Nachrichten
9 Interview:
„Wir wachsen in den
Märkten unserer Kunden“
Inhalt
EURO COSMETICS · Volume No. 19 · July/August 2011
Ein Gespräch mit Dierk Schröder
Geschäftsführer der Edelmann Gruppe
Interview –
Seite 9
13 Fachbeiträge
Namen und
Nachrichten –
Seite 6
13 The Beneficial Role of Antioxidants
in Expanding Photoprotection:
Von Steven Q. Wang, MD und Judy Y. Hu, MD
16 Phytosterol-rich Extracts
Fachbeiträge –
Seite 23
Fachbeiträge –
Seite 16
Von Dr. Karl-Werner Quirin
20 Intelligent Delivery Systems for
Enhancing the Performance of Active
Ingredients in Skin Care Formulations
Von Ameann DeJohn und Meyer R. Rosen
23 All About Skin
Down To Earth The Coming Cosmetic Trend
Von Greentech
Neue Produkte –
Seite 32
Veranstaltungen – Seite 28
36 A Simple, Unique Technology for
Converting Standard Microscopes into
Three Dimensional Image Viewers
Von Pam Frost Gorder und Allen Yi
24 Neue Inhaltsstoffe
28 Veranstaltungen
Verpackung
und Maschinen –
Seite 35
28 HBA Global 2011
29 POWTECH / TechnoPharm 2011:
Countdown für die Branchenhighlights
im Herbst
30 Cosmoprof North America 2011
31 Luxe Pack Monaco 2011
32
35
39
40
43
43
Neue Produkte
Verpackung und Maschinen
Veranstaltungskalender
Marktplatz
Advertiser’s Index
Impressum
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7/8-2011
3
EURO COSMETICS
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SUPPLIER'S PANORAMA
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Contact: Claudia Oderwald ([email protected])
7/8-2011
4
EURO COSMETICS
EDITORIAL
Dear Readers,
Liebe Leserinnen und Leser,
Skin aging – a topic that affects everybody
Hautalterung – ein Thema das jeden betrifft
The skin must do many things: it must handle great temperature
fluctuations, survive sunbathing, and perform tasks such as protecting the body against illness-causing bacteria in the environment.
Der Haut wird einiges zugemutet: Sie muss mit hohen Temperaturschwankungen fertig werden, Sonnenbäder verkraften und ihren
Aufgaben, wie dem Schutz vor Krankheitskeimen aus der Umgebung, nachkommen.
Thus it is hardly a wonder that the skin is frequently under stress
and that this becomes more noticeable with advancing age. It is
precisely the desire for a good appearance right into old age that is
leading researchers to develop ever more numerous new methods
for keeping skin young and preventing skin aging.
So ist es kaum verwunderlich, dass die Haut bisweilen unter Stress
gerät und sich dies im fortgeschrittenen Alter im Aussehen bemerkbar macht. Doch gerade der Wunsch nach gutem Aussehen bis ins
hohe Alter lässt die Forschung immer zahlreichere neue Methoden
zum Thema Hautverjüngung und auch Prophylaxe der Hautalterung
entwickeln.
Exposure to the sun makes an especially large contribution to
skin aging. Cosmetics manufacturers are focusing increasingly on
how best to manufacture products that provide protection against
UV-B rays, which cause sunburn, and UV-A rays, which penetrate
the deeper skin layers. However there is yet another factor that can
contribute significantly to damaging the skin: ROS (reactive oxygen species). The biochemical analysis of Steven Wang and Judy
Hu, which starts on page 13 of this issue, discusses this and the
favorable influence of antioxidants on the skin. There are other
interesting remarks about the editorial focus of this issue on skin
aging in the contribution by Dr. Karl-Werner Quirin on page 16 and
in the article by Ameann DeJohn and our editor for the USA/Canada, Meyer R. Rosen, starting on page 20.
Zur Hautalterung trägt insbesondere die Sonnenbelastung bei. Mit
dem Schutz vor UV-B Strahlung, die den eigentlichen Sonnenbrand
verursacht, und der UV-A Strahlung, die in die tieferen Hautschichten eindringt, bestmöglich herzustellen, beschäftigen sich die Kosmetikhersteller in hohem Maße. Aber es gibt auch noch einen
weiteren Faktor, der erheblich zur Schädigung der Haut beitragen
kann: ROS (reactive oxygen species). Davon und von dem günstigen
Einfluss von Antioxidantien auf die Haut handelt die biochemische
Analyse von Steven Wang und Judy Hu ab Seite 13 in diesem Heft.
Weitere interessante Anmerkungen zum redaktionellen Schwerpunktthema Hautalterung dieser Ausgabe finden Sie, liebe Leserinnen und Leser, in dem Beitrag von Dr. Karl-Werner Quirin auf
Seite 16 und in einem weiteren interessanten Fachbeitrag von Ameann DeJohn und unserem Editor USA/Canada, Meyer R. Rosen, ab
Seite 20.
Summer vacation is fi nally nearing its end. In the fall, our industry is eagerly anticipating another eventful program. Noteworthy
are especially SEPAWA in Fulda, Luxepack in Monaco, the SCC
Congress in Long Beach, CA, as well as the IFSCC Congress in
Bangkok. These are all events that are scheduled in October. We
wish you all the best in your business and we are hoping that there
will not be a global return of the latest financial and economic crisis.
Die Sommerpause geht nun mit großen Schritten ihrem Ende
entgegen. Der bevorstehende Herbst erwartet unsere Branche wieder einmal mit einem dicht gedrängten Programm. Zu nennen sind
dabei insbesondere die SEPAWA in Fulda, die Luxepack in Monaco,
der SCC Kongress in Long Beach, USA, sowie der IFSCC Kongress in
Bangkok; alles Veranstaltungen, die im Oktober anstehen. Hierzu
wünschen wir uns allen gute Geschäfte und hoffentlich keinen globalen Rückfall in eine weitere Finanz- und Wirtschaftskrise.
We wish you great reading pleasure with this issue
Your EURO COSMETICS team
Viel Freude beim Lesen dieser Ausgabe
Ihr EURO COSMETICS Team
7/8-2011
5
EURO COSMETICS
NAMES AND NEWS
All of these activities, and our
industry-leading investment in
R&D, reinforce Firmenich’s
objective to be the reference and
Thomas Seeger-Helbach ist Head of
Marketing & Communication bei BABOR Cosmetics
Seit 1. Juli 2011 ist Thomas
Seeger-Helbach neuer Head of
Marketing & Communication bei
BABOR Cosmetics, einem weltweit führenden Unternehmen
der professionellen Hautpflege.
In der neu geschaffenen Position
verantwortet er die Bereiche Produktmanagement, Kommunikation und Public Relations und
übernimmt damit die strategische
nationale und internationale Markenführung des Premium-Kosmetiklabels. Thomas Seeger-Helbach
berichtet an BABOR Geschäftsführer Michael Schummert.
Der Diplom-Volkswirt kommt
von Mäurer & Wirtz, wo er seit
Januar 2000 als Director Marketing & New Business das gesamte
Markenportfolio des auf Duft
und Pflege spezialisierten Unternehmens verantwortete. Nach
seinem Einstieg in das Unternehmen 1996 als Junior National
Key Account Manager, wechselte
er wenig später in die Position
des International Key Account
Manager und sammelte umfassende Erfahrung in nationalen
und internationalen Märkten.
Beste Voraussetzungen also, um
bei BABOR Cosmetics neue
Impulse zu setzen.
Clariant and Elevance Renewable Sciences
Enter Into a Cooperation for Renewable Products
Elevance Renewable Sciences
and Clariant International Ltd,
Business
Unit
Additives,
announced they have completed
an agreement to cooperate
within the field of renewable
products.
The companies are coupling
Clariant’s strong market knowledge and formulation development capabilities with Elevance’s
unique renewable products and
patented process technology to
commercialize new renewable
additives for plastics.
Thomas Seeger-Helbach kommt
in ein Unternehmen, das den
Balanceakt zwischen Tradition
und Innovation vorbildlich meistert. Mit einem Erfahrungsschatz
von mehr als 55 Jahren steht
BABOR synonym für exklusive
Kosmetik- und Wellnessprodukte, herausragende Produktqualität und Wirkstoffperformance
sowie professionelle Behandlungssysteme. Weltweit ist
BABOR in mehr als 60 Ländern
durch Distributeure und Tochter■
gesellschaften vertreten.
After 2 years of transformation, our Center in Grasse is the
most complete solution available
today to innovate in the field of
natural ingredients, thanks to its
state of the art innovation labs,
modernized extraction workshops, new capacities in the
fields of molecular distillation
and rectification, and several
CO2 extractors. In addition, Fir-
DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products LLC announced new distributor partnerships in Western
Europe for its 100 percent biobased product, Zemea® propanediol. The company has appointed
the IMCD Group as distributor
for Zemea® in Italy and Dichem
Chemicals SA in Greece.
menich continues to process
products “pays” like Rose Centifolia, Mimosa, and Violet Leaves
in its facility in Tourrettes sur Var,
a smaller extraction plant for
primary extracts.
With this full range of technologies available in one location, Firmenich continues to
implement its specialty innovation strategy, focusing on the
production of high-tech specialties as well as the combination of
Naturals and Synthetics. This is
combined with the activities, at
source, where Firmenich started
to process their natural commodities.
7/8-2011
“Clariant is globally active in
the performance additives space,
offering a diversified portfolio.
Our teams have worked together
over the past year and are pleased
to enter now into this cooperation,” said Andy Shafer, executive
vice president of sales and market
development for Elevance. “This
is the beginning of a collaboration that can bring renewable
solutions with enhanced performance to the market today and
expand significantly over the
next three to five years.”
■
DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products
Expands Distribution of Zemea® Propanediol
Firmenich inaugurates its new
Naturals Innovation Center in the south of France
Firmenich is pleased to
announce the official inauguration of its new Natural Ingredients Innovation Center in Grasse,
France, reinforcing our undisputed leadership in ingredients.
preference for high quality and
sustainable ingredients in the
eyes of our clients and of per■
fumers.
Zemea® is a natural ingredient
developed for use in cosmetics,
personal care and home cleaning
products. It is a sustainable alternative to petroleum-based glycols
where the product’s lack of skin
irritation, improved moisturization and excellent sensorial
attributes are benefits. Zemea®
has been recognized by Ecocert™
and the Natural Products Association as an ingredient of natural
6
EURO COSMETICS
origin. IMCD is a leading company
in marketing, sales and distribution of specialty chemicals and
food ingredients, with offices and
warehouses in 31 countries in
Europe,Africa and Australia/Asia.
Dichem Chemicals SA is a leading agent and distributor of raw
materials and packaging materials for personal care, pharmaceutical and home care industries in
Greece and Cyprus.
DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products is a joint venture between
DuPont, a global science company, and Tate & Lyle, a world-leading
renewable food and industrial
ingredients company. DuPont
Tate & Lyle Bio Products provides
natural and renewably sourced
ingredients that do not compromise product performance. ■
The ECKART effect –
makes beauty irresistible.
The ECKART effect is brilliant. It turns the ordinary into the extraordinary: The wide palette of effect pigments
provides a fascinating caleidoscope ranging from gentle matte effects to incredible sparkle when added to
the variety of application fields of cosmetic products. Innovation, research and ongoing development of our
products have made ECKART the partner of choice for the global cosmetics industry.
ECKART – take the brilliant way.
For further information please contact: ECKART GmbH · Guentersthal 4 · 91235 Hartenstein · Germany
Tel +49 9152-77-0 · Fax +49 9152-77-7008 · [email protected]
www.eckart.net
NAMES AND NEWS
just any water, but for good quality drinking water, which has to
be sourced from far below the
surface.
GEPRÜFTES VERTRAUEN – erfolgreiche
ISO 9001:2008 Zertifizierung der neochem GmbH
Die neochem GmbH als junges, modernes Unternehmen
hat mit der Erstzertifizierung im
April 2011 mehr verfolgt: neu
bei der neochem GmbH sind für
diese Unternehmensgröße eine
einmalige Einbindung von Lieferanten-, Dienstleister- sowie die
komplette Abbildung der finanzbuchhalterischen- und der Controlling-Prozesse. Aussagen wie
„ganzheitliches Managementsystem” erhalten so eine neue
Bedeutung. Möglich war dies
über eine moderne detaillierte
Prozesserfassung, eine strikte
Mitarbeitereinbindung sowie
eine konsequente Umstellung
von Personenaufgaben auf prozessbezogenen Funktionen.
Neben dem Beratungs- und
Dienstleistungsverständnis der
neochem GmbH wurden auch
die qualitätssichernden Aspekte
erfasst und noch verbessert.
Dies umfasst eine Rückruffähigkeit sowohl seitens eines Lieferanten als auch seitens eines
Kunden. Gleichzeitig wurden
auf HACCPGrundlage Produkteigenschaften erfasst und Maßnahmen formuliert. Damit aber
nicht genug, denn in den Zeiten
von REACh, CLP, Japanimporten
und erweiterten Sicherheitsdatenblättern hat die neochem
GmbH Kompetenzen auf- und
ausgebaut und ist eine kompetente Stütze ihrer Kunden und
■
Lieferantenpartner.
Work began in April 2011, and
by July 2011, the new deep wells
were constructed. The wells are
approximately 40 metres deep
and produce much cleaner, better tasting water for a local population of around 28,000 people.
Basic
necessities
vastly
improve the quality of life in
rural areas and Earthoil intends
for this deep wells initiative to
be the first of many projects to
improve life in this region. Hugo
Bovill, Group CEO, Treatt plc
stated “Treatt, through investment in Earthoil, is delighted to
help farmers and loyal suppliers
improve the quality of life of
■
local communities”
IMCD Malaysia
opens Personal Care Application Laboratory
EARTHOIL DIGS DEEP
Earthoil Plantations Ltd, a
subsidiary of Treatt plc, supplier
of organic, fair trade certified
essential and cold pressed seed
oils, has facilitated the development of twenty four fresh water
wells in its Indian mint growing
regions. The ‘Deep wells project’, funded through the Earthoil Organic Farms Foundation
(EOFF) and project partner Dr.
Bronner's Magic Soaps, improves
local health by bringing high
quality drinking water to thousands of villagers in India’s Uttar
Pradesh region.
Continuing
its
ethical
approach to sourcing natural,
organic oils, Earthoil remains
committed to supporting its
local farmers grow and harvest
mint in India. Earthoil approved
farmers receive an organic premium for their crop as well as a
further contribution to a community fund, to be spent on
projects to improve facilities
and well-being of the local villagers.
IMCD Malaysia opens IMCD
Personal Care Application Laboratory Asia Pacific in Glenmarie
Shah Alam, Selangor, Malaysia.
The EOFF investment panel,
which includes representatives
of the head farmers, women
from the community, Earthoil,
key buyers and a local Red Cross
representative, meets to identify
key projects to be supported by
the community fund. Whilst
access to healthcare may seem
an obvious priority, availability
of good quality drinking water
offers prevention rather than
cure. Where wells already exist,
they are shallow and susceptible
to contamination, struggling to
support increasing demands of
irrigation and a growing population. The basic need is not for
7/8-2011
IMCD Malaysia is now one of
the preeminent chemical distributors in Malaysia and have
established markets in adhesives, coatings, latex, oleo
chemicals, petrochemicals and
household & personal care
industries. Being part of a global
distribution network, IMCD
Malaysia is well poised to take
advantage of its strong position
to grow in the Malaysian market.
The newly established personal care and household application laboratory on its current
8
EURO COSMETICS
premise and the addition of well
qualified chemists to its staff
will certainly see continuous
growth and expansion of new
lines in the personal care and
household division. This laboratory will be providing formulation prototypes according to
current market trends and ideas
to customers which will be
complimentary to the sales of
the raw materials related mainly
to the personal care industry.
As an IMCD supplier for reputable Principals, IMCD Malaysia
will continue to strive to be a
preferred supplier to our customers and our business partners.
■
INTERVIEW
“We are growing in our Customers’ Markets”
A conversation with Dierk Schröder,
Managing Director of the Edelmann Group
EURO COSMETICS: Mr Schröder, the Edelmann Group has been much talked about
in recent months as a result of additional
purchases and investments. What is your
strategic objective?
Dierk Schröder: We have two goals. We
want to be one of the leading system suppliers for packaging solutions and to offer
this service to our customers internationally to a consistent quality. On the one
hand, this means growing in our customers’ markets. For instance, through Edelmann France we are close to the global
players in the cosmetics industry. And with
the latest acquisition of Zalai Nyomda in
Hungary as well as the modernisation of
the Polish factory, we are currently developing in our customers’ growth markets.
On the other hand, we in the Edelmann
Group have expanded our system offering
through extensive investments. Thanks to
the new production lines in Leverkusen,
Lindau and Warsaw, our leaflet production
capacity has expanded to 1.5 billion items.
The Group’s production offering has thus
become more extensive and now serves
the increased need for more complex leaflets in the area of health care and beauty.
EURO COSMETICS: Where is the Edelmann
Group currently in this development?
Dierk Schröder: Edelmann has planned
Dierk Schröder
investments totalling around 15 million
euros for this year. This investment is an
important step on our path to becoming
one of Europe’s top five system suppliers of
packaging solutions.
EURO COSMETICS: How will your cosmetics customers specifically benefit from
this?
Dierk Schröder: I can illustrate this to you
by way of a very specific example. Since
7/8-2011
9
EURO COSMETICS
the 1970s, we have been producing folding
cartons for hair colouration. Within the
cosmetics segment, this is a print job subject to the highest quality requirements.
True colour is crucial for purchasing decisions at the POS; the tolerance for deviations in printing colour is extremely low.
Over the last few years, this area, like so
many in the consumer goods market, has
become international. Big brands in the
beauty care industry offer their products
worldwide and naturally produce them
worldwide. But who should print the folding cartons for them? There are of course
printing companies in other countries,
including some who meet the high specifications. But as the saying goes: Never
change a running system. We are familiar
with the requirements of our customers
and are geared to their logistical processes.
We offer one contact which supervises
orders centrally and ensures that “light
golden blond” and “light blond” are as true
to colour when reproduced in Mexico as
they are in Germany or Poland. For this
purpose, we have acquired additional strategically situated locations throughout the
world over the last ten years to ensure a
consistent and technological high standard
of quality within the Edelmann Group.
Identical quality worldwide is what our
customers need and what we guarantee.
INTERVIEW
EURO COSMETICS: And how is system business looking in this area? Although that is
more for your pharmaceutical division.
Dierk Schröder: Not at all. Leaflets and addons are important tools in promotion and
cross-marketing. Four- to six-colour inserts
provide information about the product
range, bound booklets detail styling tips
for evenings out, sachets contain product
samples and promote, for example, a skin
cream for men as a free gift enclosed with
a skin cream for women. We can draw on
unlimited resources in production and
manufacturing, and continue to develop
solutions. For instance, to return to the
topic of hair colouration, we enclose a
protective glove to the leaflet for applying
the dyeing cream. And for cosmetics packaging, we have developed a solution in the
form of a machine that enables us to integrate “liners” – fi ne corrugated board with
the smallest grammage – directly into the
folding cartons. This saves the customer
one manufacturing stage in their packing
process. It also enables us to add spoons,
sachets or other add-ons. These are the
packaging specials that offer consumers
added value and are thus in high demand
within the industry. For this reason, we
will continue to pursue this path in future,
alongside further internationalisation.
EURO COSMETICS: What developments are
you currently seeing in the cosmetics
market?
Dierk Schröder: In relation to packaging
itself, promotions are a topical subject. In
relation to market development, we are
noticing further internationalisation in the
cosmetics sector. The big brands are tapping into growth markets and looking for
packaging partners that produce regionally.
EURO COSMETICS: Which markets have
the best growth potential?
Dierk Schröder: Latin America and Southeast Asia. But Central and Eastern Europe is
also seeing interesting development. The
region currently has growth figures of
between 4 and 5 percent. This is connected with growing demand for consumer
goods, and consequently, packaging. By
2015, use of board in Eastern Europe is set
to increase from 30 to 50 percent of Western European requirements.
■
Edelmann Group
●
Twelve locations in six countries:
seven factories in Germany and five
printing works in France, Mexico,
China, Poland and Hungary
●
4.2 billion folding cartons and leaflets
(2010)
●
Turnover 2010: around 190 million
euros
Turnover 2011 (planned): 230 million
euros
●
Distribution of turnover: around 40
percent beauty care, around 60 percent health care
●
Percentage of turnover from foreign
business: around 42 percent
●
Printing and finishing technology:
film lamination, cold foil stamping
(CEmetal), holographic image transfer
(CEholo), varnishes from matt to high
gloss, embossing with and without
foil, special gluing, window gluing,
etc.
●
Logistics and system supply concepts
„Wir wachsen in den Märkten unserer Kunden“
Ein Gespräch mit Dierk Schröder,
Geschäftsführer der Edelmann Gruppe
EURO COSMETICS: Herr Schröder, die Edelmann Gruppe hat in den letzten Monaten
mit Zukäufen und Investitionen von sich
reden gemacht. Welche strategische Zielrichtung verfolgen Sie damit?
Dierk Schröder: Das sind zwei Ziele. Wir
wollen zu den führenden Systemlieferanten
für Verpackungslösungen gehören und
diese Leistung unseren Kunden internatio-
nal in einer durchgängigen Qualität anbieten. Das heißt zum einen, in den Märkten
unserer Kunden zu wachsen. Mit Edelmann
France sind wir beispielsweise nah an den
Global Playern der Kosmetikindustrie. Und
mit dem jüngsten Zukauf von Zalai Nyomda
in Ungarn sowie der Modernisierung des
polnischen Werks entwickeln wir uns derzeit in den Wachstumsmärkten unserer
7/8-2011
10
EURO COSMETICS
Kunden weiter. Zum anderen haben wir in
der Edelmann Gruppe unser Systemangebot
mit umfangreichen Investitionen erweitert.
Durch die neuen Fertigungslinien in Leverkusen, Lindau und Warschau erhöht sich die
Kapazität unserer Leaflet-Produktion auf 1,5
Milliarden Stück. Das Produktionsangebot
der Gruppe ist damit umfassender geworden und bedient nun auch den gestiegenen
INTERVIEW
Bedarf an komplexeren Leaflets im Healthwie im Beauty-Care-Bereich.
EURO COSMETICS: Wo steht die Edelmann
Gruppe in dieser Entwicklung aktuell?
Dierk Schröder: Edelmann hat in diesem Jahr
rund 15 Millionen Euro für Investitionen
eingeplant. Dieser Invest ist ein wichtiger
Schritt auf unserem Weg zu Europas Top 5
Systemlieferanten für Verpackungslösungen.
EURO COSMETICS: Wie profitieren denn
speziell Ihre Kosmetik-Kunden davon?
Dierk Schröder: Das kann ich Ihnen an
einem ganz konkreten Beispiel verdeutlichen. Seit den 70er-Jahren produzieren wir
Faltschachteln für Haarcolorationen. Das
gehört zu den Druck-Aufgaben im Kosmetiksegment mit den höchsten Qualitätsanforderungen. Die Farbechtheit ist am P.O.S.
kaufentscheidend, der Toleranzwert für
Farbabweichungen im Druckbild extrem
niedrig. Jetzt hat sich dieser Bereich wie so
viele im Konsumgütermarkt in den letzten
Jahren internationalisiert. Die großen Marken in der Beauty Care bieten ihre Produkte
weltweit an, produzieren natürlich auch
weltweit. Wer soll ihnen aber dafür die
Faltschachteln drucken? Natürlich gibt es
auch in anderen Ländern Druckereien, auch
solche, die den hohen Anforderungen gerecht werden. Wie heißt es aber so schön:
Never change a running system. Wir kennen
die Anforderungen unserer Kunden, sind
auf ihre logistischen Abläufe ausgerichtet;
wir bieten einen Ansprechpartner, der die
Aufträge zentral betreut und dafür sorgt,
dass „Hellgoldblond“ und „Lichtblond“ in
Mexiko genauso farbecht wiedergegeben
werden wie in Deutschland oder Polen.
Dafür haben wir in den letzten zehn Jahren
international strategisch gelegene Standorte
zugekauft und sorgen für einen durchgehenden technologischen „High Q“-Standard
innerhalb der Edelmann Gruppe. Eine Qualität weltweit, das ist das, was unsere Kunden brauchen und was wir sicherstellen.
EURO COSMETICS: Und wie sieht es hier mit
dem Systemgeschäft aus? Das ist doch eher
was für Ihre Pharmasparte.
Dierk Schröder: Ganz und gar nicht. Packungsbeilagen und -beigaben sind wichtige
Mittel der Promotion und des Cross-Marketings. Vier- bis sechsfarbige Inserts informieren über das Produktsortiment, gebundene
Booklets für unterwegs zeigen Styling-Tipps
fürs abendliche Ausgehen, Sachets beinhalten Produktproben und promoten beispielsweise eine Pflegecreme für Herren als Beigabe einer Pflegecreme für Damen. Für die
Produktion und Konfektion können wir aus
dem Vollen schöpfen und Lösungen auch
weiterentwickeln. Für Haarcolorationen, um
noch mal auf dieses Thema zurückzukommen, haben wir beispielsweise auf die Packungsbeilage den Schutzhandschuh zum
Auftragen der Färbungscreme appliziert.
Und für Kosmetikverpackungen haben wir
eine Maschinenlösung entwickelt, mit denen
wir die sogenannten Liner, die feinen Wellpappen mit Kleinstgrammaturen, direkt in
die Faltschachtel integrieren können. Das
spart dem Kunden beim Abpacken einen
Konfektionierungsdurchgang. Mit diesem
Prozess können wir aber auch Löffel, Sachets
oder andere Add-ons einspenden. Das sind
die Verpackungsspecials, die den Verbrauchern Mehrwert bieten und die deshalb von
der Branche nachgefragt werden. Deshalb ist
genau das unser Weg, den wir künftig neben
der weiteren Internationalisierung ausbauen
werden.
EURO COSMETICS: Welche Entwicklungen
sehen Sie denn aktuell für den Kosmetikmarkt?
Dierk Schröder: Was die Verpackungen
selbst angeht, sind Promotions auf jeden Fall
ein Thema. Was die Marktentwicklung angeht, beobachten wir eine weitere Internationalisierung des Kosmetiksegments. Die
großen Marken erschließen sich die Wachstumsmärkte und suchen nach Verpackungspartnern, die regional produzieren.
7/8-2011
11
EURO COSMETICS
EURO COSMETICS: Welches sind dabei die
Märkte mit dem besten Wachstumspotenzial?
Dierk Schröder: Das sind Lateinamerika und
Südostasien. Interessant entwickelt sich
aber ganz klar Mittel- und Osteuropa. Die
Region kann derzeit Wachstumswerte zwischen 4 und 5 Prozent vorweisen. Damit
geht eine wachsende Nachfrage nach Konsumgütern und infolgedessen nach Verpackungen einher. Bis 2015 soll die osteuropäische Kartonnutzung von zuletzt 30 auf 50
Prozent des westeuropäischen Bedarfs steigen.
■
Edelmann Gruppe
●
zwölf Standorte in sechs Ländern:
sieben Werke in Deutschland sowie
fünf Druckereien in Frankreich,
Mexiko, China, Polen und Ungarn
●
4,2 Milliarden Faltschachteln und
Packungsbeilagen (2010)
●
Umsatz 2010: rund 190 Millionen
Euro
Umsatz 2011 (geplant): 230 Millionen
Euro
●
Umsatzverteilung: rund 40 Prozent
Beauty Care, rund 60 Prozent Health
Care
●
Umsatzanteil Auslandsgeschäfte:
rund 42 Prozent
●
Druck- und Veredelungstechniken:
Folienkaschieren, Kaltfolienprägung
(CEmetal), holografischer Imagetransfer (CEholo), Lackieren von
matt bis Hochglanz, Prägen mit und
ohne Folie, Sonderklebung, Fensterklebung u.a.
●
Logistik- und Systemlieferkonzepte
The Beneficial Role of Antioxidants in
Expanding Photoprotection:
By Steven Q. Wang, MD* and Judy Y. Hu, MD**
Superoxide anion is a very volatile and unstable ROS. It can be
converted to hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) either spontaneously or
with the assistance of superoxide dismutase. Hydrogen peroxide is
more stable than superoxide anion and can permeate through the
lipid membrane of cells, but it can also be converted to hydroxyl
radical (·OH) in the presence of iron (Fe2+) or copper (Cu+) via a
Fenton reaction 1). The hydroxyl radical (·OH) can react with nucleotides, unsaturated lipids and amino acids. This results in damage to
the DNA, lipid membrane and proteins in the cells (Figure 1). The
damage to DNA can lead to point mutation, single strand breakage,
and sister chromatin exchange. Collectively this conglomeration of
damages can potentially alter the integrity of the genetic code of
individuals. Along with damage to the proteins and lipids, the building blocks of cellular organelles, irreversible injury to cells and tissue
can therefore take place.
A Biochemical Understanding of the Issue
Overexposure to ultraviolet radiation (UV) from the sun, or artificial light sources play an important role in the development of skin
cancers and skin aging. To prevent the detrimental effects associated
with UV exposure, a concerted effort has been made by a consortium drawn from the medical community, commercial industry, and
non-profit organizations. The collective effort to change the behavior of the public, specifically in emphasizing the need for sun avoidance, seeking shade, wearing hats and clothing, and lastly applying
sunscreens. However, there is another harmful, but less known
player that is capable of delivering an equal amount of damage to the
skin. This source is a group of reactive oxygen species (ROS).
ROS is comprised of a group of free radicals that contain oxygen
molecules. These can be generated from endogenous sources as well
as environmental exposure such as: pollution, smoking and UV
radiation. A list of common ROS that affect the body is shown in
Table 1. The endogenous sources of ROS are mainly generated as the
body carries out a number of essential functions. The most significant source of ROS involves the generation of Adenosine-5'-triphosphate (ATP) in the mitochondria.
O2
Oxygen
NADPH Oxidase (ATP generation)
Xanthine Oxidase (degradation of purine
nucleotide)
Nitric Oxide Synthase (synthesis of NO)
Superoxide
Anion
O2-
Hydrogen
Peroxide
H2O2
1. Superoxide dismutase (SOD)
2. Spontaneous conversion
Table 1. List of Common Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS).
1. Superoxide anion (·O2-)
2. Hydroxyl radicals (·OH)
Fenton Reaction
(Fe2+ or Cu+)
3. Lipid proxy radicals (LOO·)
4. Nitric oxide radicals (NO·)
·OH
Unsaturated Lipids
5. Singlet oxygen (1O2)
To power an array of cellular activity, glucose molecules are converted to ATP via a set of coordinated reactions within the mitochondria. For every molecule of glucose processed through the citric acid
cycle and electron chain transport, 34 ATP molecules are generated.
NADPH oxidase is needed to catalyze the reaction in the electron
chain transport, and as a side reaction oxygen (O2) can be converted
to Superoxide anion (·O2-), a very potent ROS. Other enzymes that
can generate (·O2-) include xanthine oxidase which functions in the
degradation of purine nucleotide, and nitric oxide synthase, which
is involved in the production of nitric oxide.
Lipid
Peroxides
Carbonyl
Protein
Figure 1: Endogenous Generation of ROS
The damage to unsaturated lipid deserves a more detailed discussion. Unsaturated lipid comprises the bulk of the lipid membrane
forming the physical, chemical and physiological barrier of the cell.
Hydroxyl radical (·OH) with one unpaired electron abstracts a
hydrogen atom from an unsaturated lipid molecule, and the ·OH is
* Director of Dermatologic Surgery and Dermatology, Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center at Basking Ridge, New Jersey
** Cumberland Skin Dermatology, 5651 Frist Blvd., Ste. 709, Hermitage,TN 37076
7/8-2011
Amino Acids
Hydroxyl
Radical
13
EURO COSMETICS
neutralized to form a water molecule (H2O). However, the unsaturated lipid molecule with a missing hydrogen atom now has an
unpaired electron, and it is inherently unstable. This unpaired electron subsequently reacts with oxygen and/or neighboring unsaturated lipid molecules to start a chain reaction that can lead to partial
disintegration of the cellular membrane if this reaction is not terminated in a short interval.
young and healthy skin, they work collectively in coordinated fashion to absorb ROS and regenerate each other. However, in individuals with advanced age and under severe oxidative stress, such as
excessive amount of UV exposure, the antioxidant defense system
can be depleted.
The rationale for adding antioxidants in sunscreens can be
regarded as an advancement in sunscreen technology. In Europe and
North America, sunscreen remains as the most popular form of
photoprotection. However, most individuals only apply less than ½
of the optimal quantity (2mg/cm2). As a result, the effective SPF is
only 1/3 of the labeled SPF. Furthermore, sunscreens provide more
UVB than UVA protection. This problem is especially acute in the
United States where the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) still
has not passed guidelines in assessing and labeling UVA protection.
Unbalanced UV protection can lead to excessive UVA exposure,
which can react with photosensitizers to generate ROS. Current
sunscreens with UV filter technology only absorb or block a portion
of UV, but do not quench ROS. With the addition of topical antioxidants in sunscreen, this extra level of protection can enhance the
endogenous defense system of the body and quench any ROS generated from UV rays not absorbed by UV filters.
Aside from the endogenous sources, environmental exposures
such as UV radiation, pollution and smoking can all contribute to the
development of ROS in the body. Briefly, we will describe the
mechanism by which UV activates the ROS production. Within the
cells, there are different chromophores or photosensitizers, such as
porphyrins, pheomelanins, and flavins. Upon UV exposure, especially UVA (320nm to 400nm), the absorption of UV energy causes
these photosensitizers to become excited. In the process of returning to their ground and stable state, these photosensitizers react
with oxygen to generate singlet oxygen (1O 2 ), which is converted to
superoxide anion, hydrogen peroxide and hydroxyl radicals. Collectively, these molecules react with DNA molecules within the
nucleus and mitochondria, cellular lipid membrane and proteins.
The end results are non-specific damage to all aspects of cellular
organelles.
The industry has embraced this concept and readily marketed
products with claims that include vitamin C, vitamin E, and other
antioxidants in sunscreens. However, it is difficult to know whether
the addition of antioxidants in sunscreens actually deliver these
claimed benefits. In a study by Wang et al 2) the investigators specifically assessed the degree of free radical protection offered by 12
sunscreens with antioxidants and attempted to differentiate the
contribution of free radical protection from that of the UV filters vs.
the antioxidants in the sunscreens. The results showed that these
products indeed offered protection against ROS, and the ROS protection correlates directly with the level of UVA protection. Products
with high UVA protection also offer high protection against ROS.
Unfortunately, the activity level of antioxidants in the sunscreens is
virtually non-existent.
The damage at the cellular level is manifested at the clinical level.
In the case of skin aging, ROS plays a major role in the development
of wrinkles. Both UV exposure and ROS from endogenous and
exogenous sources can lead to increase expression of NF-kB and
AP-1, which leads to the activation of pro-inflammatory cytokines
and Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). MMPs, specifically MMP1
and MMP9, degrade collagen and elastin in the dermal matrix. At the
same time, ROS also decrease the levels of TGF-B and tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMPS), which lead to a decrease in collagen production and a decrease in inhibition of MMPs. Collectively,
ROS leads to a decrease in collagen production and increase in collagen breakdown. Clinically, these cellular changes are manifested
as increased wrinkle formation.
To maintain a balanced redox level and limit the build up of excessive amount of ROS in the body, an elaborate antioxidant mechanism
is in place to quench the ROS. The antioxidant defense system is
comprised of enzymes and non-enzymatic molecules (Table 2). In
The lack of antioxidant activity in sunscreens can be explained by
a number of reasons. First, antioxidants are inherently unstable. For
example, L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and alpha-tocopherol (vitamin
E) are well known antioxidants with tremendous of benefits for the
skin. Due to their inherent unstable nature and difficulty in formulation, other conjugate forms, such as 2-phospho-ascorbic acid and
tocopherol acetate, are often used as replacements. However, these
products have very low antioxidant activity level. Aside from the
wrong form, many sunscreen and cosmetic products do not offer
adequate concentration of the active antioxidants. Lastly, formulations of many products do not consider the optimal pH level and
other factors that ensure the adequate penetration of these antioxidant ingredients beyond the stratum corneum to reach the living
tissue.
Table 2. Innate Antioxidant Defense Mechanism
1. Non-enzymatic:
a. Vitamin C
b. Vitamin E
c. Vitamin A
d. Glutathione
e. CoQ10
f. Lipoid Acid
g. Polyphenol
2. Enzymes:
a. Superoxide Dismutase
b. Catalase
c. Glutathione Reductase
d. Thioredoxin Reductase
e. Methionione Sulfoxide Reductase
7/8-2011
14
EURO COSMETICS
In summary, we have discussed the known dangers associated with the excessive amount of ROS and also reviewed the
endogenous and exogenous sources of ROS. Protection and
prevention against excessive amount of ROS is paramount to
the overall health of the skin. The strategy to replenish the
innate antioxidant defense mechanism of the body can augment our current technology in employing sunscreens to block
and absorb UV rays. However, at this moment, considerable
progress is needed before meaningful and tangible benefits can
be achieved.
References
1) Fenton H.J.H. (1894). "Oxidation of tartaric acid in presence of iron". J.
Chem. Soc., Trans. 65 (65): 899–911;
2) Wang SQ, Osterwalder U, Jung K. Ex vivo evaluation of radical sun protection factor n popular sunscreens with antioxidants. J. Am. Acad Der■
matol . 2011 May 28. [Epub ahead of print].
Dr Judy Y. Hu
is a board certified dermatologist in private practice in
Nashville, TN. She cares for patients with routine skin
conditions and specializes in cosmetic and laser surgeries. She has been an investigator in multiple clinical
research trials conducting research on cosmetic intervention for anti-aging. She is the author of multiple
articles published in scientific peer-reviewed journals,
and has appeared in numerous interviews in different
news media.
Dr. Steven Q. Wang
is the Director of Dermatologic Surgery and Dermatology at Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center in
Basking Ridge, New Jersey. He cares for patients with
routine skin conditions and specializes in the diagnosis, treatment, and prevention of skin cancers, especially melanoma. To manage high-risk skin cancer
patients, he uses whole-body photography, dermoscopy,
and computerized digital imaging systems. In addition,
he is actively involved in clinical research, with a focus
on photoprotection, antioxidants, anti-aging and noninvasive imaging. He is the author of more than 60
publications in peer reviewed scientific journals and
academic textbooks. He has authored two books for the
general public, and lectured extensively in the United
States and around the world
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Phytosterol-rich Extracts
By Dr. Karl-Werner Quirin*
Phytosterols are pentacyclic triterpens. These secondary plant ingredients encourage cell division and are important
cell membrane components with photo-protective and anti-wrinkle efficacy. Soy germ and guggul CO2-extracts are especially rich in these constituents.
In-vivo relevance of these findings could be demonstrated in a
recent study with 10 test persons. Their skin was treated once daily
with different cream formulations. After 10 days the corresponding
skin areas were irradiated with 100 J/cm2 UVA. All preparations
were able to inhibit UV induced up-regulation of MMP-1 but only
phytosterol containing products were able to act against UV induced
down regulation of COL1A1 and COL1A2 genes. Topical application
of phytosterols can therefore delay the decline of collagen fibres and
stimulate collagen synthesis 2).
Phytosterols are well known as minor components in non-refined
seed oils. The content of less than 1 % is however relatively low.
Phytosterol enriched fractions from industrial scale downstream
processing of vegetable oils are not always welcome in natural and
organic cosmetics due to chemical manipulation. Soy germ and guggul resin have a natural high phytosterol content which can be
retrieved by gentle CO2-extraction.
Importance of sterols
UVA radiation (320-400 nm) reduces the content of cholesterol in
plasma membranes as consequence of sphingomyelin hydrolysis and
conversion to ceramide. Cholesterol plays a crucial role for stabilisation of cell membrane rafts which ideally need cholesterol to ceramide ratio of > 1. Cholesterol depletion increases the susceptibility
of keratinocytes for UVA-induced gene expression responsible for
photo-aging whereas pre-treatment with cholesterol completely
abrogates this UVA stress response. Interestingly the cholesterol
molecule can be mimicked by plant sterols, which reduce photosensitivity and protect from photo-aging when applied topically to
human skin 1).
Figure 1: ␤-sitosterol
Another study detected similar effects with apple seed phytosterols. Positive findings were noted on genes expression associated
with keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation. Hyaluronic acid
synthesis was stimulated and epidermal thickness, a marker of skin
aging, improved. In-vivo studies revealed amelioration of skin function, elasticity and smoothness 3).
Another symptom for skin aging is the loss of dermal collagen
fibres connected to wrinkle formation. The mechanism behind is
widely elucidated by proteolytic collagen degradation due to matrix
metalloproteinases MMPs and by reduced de-novo collagen synthesis based on down regulation of the genes COL1A1 and COL1A2.
These events are initiated by UVA and UVB radiation and other
environmental stimuli. Cell based in-vitro assays proved that treatment of human keratinocytes with phytosterols was able to inhibit
MMP expression.
In a different report the effect of soy germ phytosterols was investigated in-vivo for the regeneration of stratum corneum, the skin’s
topmost layer and barrier protecting against environmental influences. This assay examined the ability of soy sterols to cure methylnicotinate-induced erythema of the skin of volunteers after
* CEO, FLAVEX Naturextrakte GmbH
7/8-2011
16
EURO COSMETICS
Besides medical use due to hypolipidemic, hypocholesterolemic
and anti-diabetic properties the gum resin is also of interest for dermatological application. Guggul extract is described to be effective
against acne, dermatitis, impure skin and wrinkles.
disruption of the skin barrier by tape stripping. The extent of erythema formation was monitored by non-invasive reflectance spectrophotometry. It was obvious that treatment with a soy phytosterol
containing formulation accelerated homeostasis and the recovery of
skin barrier function compared to areas treated with the vehicle
alone. Accordingly soy phytosterols exert positive influence on skin
repair 4).
Supercritical soy germ extract
Soy beans comprise about 2 % hypocotyl or germ. The germs
contain only 5-8 % of oil which is ideally separated by CO2-extraction.
The method recovers all neutral lipids and lipophilic by-products
like carotenes, phytosterols and tocopherols but no phospholipids.
Supercritical oils do not need refinement and can be certified
organic.
Guggul gum resin
A special guggul extract was obtained by CO2-extraction with a
small amount of ethanol as co-solvent. The supercritical extract
represents 15-20 % of the starting material and is standardised with
triheptanoin to 2 % guggulsterones to give a light brownish clear
liquid oil which is easy to use. Triheptanoin is a stable odd chain
triglyceride offering high spreadibility and good skin feel without
greasy character. The product is derived from natural origin, meets
Ecocert criteria and is suitable for natural cosmetics.
Other important constituents are 7 % phytosterols, polypodane
type triterpenes (e.g. myrrhanol) and cembrene derivatives.
Soy germs
The composition of soy germ CO2-extract is remarkable. In addition to its outstanding phytosterol content of 5-8 % the oil is high in
tocopherols and contains valuable triglycerides with more than 70 %
polyunsaturated omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. Soy sterols mainly
␤-sitosterol are present by about 75 % in esterified form.
Soy germ extract is mainly used in lip plumper, lip stick and lip
balm, in anti-aging and facial moisturiser products, in sunscreen and
body firming lotions. The ability of the product to prevent from
photo-aging, to restore defective skin function and to create a
healthy and smooth skin surface as discussed above makes the soy
germ extract suitable for many types of cosmetic products.
Figure 2: Some active marker ingredients of guggul extract
It has been shown that guggulsterones suppress activation of
matrix metalloproteinases, especially MMP-9 which is associated
with the degradation of type IV and V collagens 5). This means
reduced breakdown of extracellular matrix (ECM) which provides
structural support to human cells and is essential for processes like
wound healing and development of fibrous connective tissue.
Supercritical guggul extract
Guggul is a type of myrrh derived from Commiphora mukul, a
small tree of the Bursaceae family native to India, Pakistan and
Bangladesh.
7/8-2011
17
EURO COSMETICS
Own in-vitro assays disclosed in accordance with literature 6) that
the supercritical guggul extract has also anti-adipogenic efficacy by
inhibition of preadipocyte differentiation and stimulation of lipolytic enzymes resulting in reduced formation of adipose tissue.
These two mechanisms suggest that guggul extract contributes to
the formation of a firm, even and smooth skin surface and alleviates
wrinkle formation.
The metabolically active deeper skin layers are responsible for
ongoing skin regeneration and for hair growth functionality. With
advancing age and impaired signal transduction pathways a slowdown of mitochondrial function and accordingly energy metabolism
is observed. This skin aging process can be counteracted by AMPK
stimulation which influences a whole cascade of processes upstream
and downstream. It especially switches on catabolic pathways
which generate adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and switches off ATP
consuming actions on a cellular level and beyond. Guggul extract is
therefore believed to stimulate energy metabolism in a similar way
as coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone) which is already well established in
regenerative and anti-aging cometics.
Anti-inflammatory and skin regenerating efficacy
A subtle chronic inflammation is characteristic for skin aging.
Inflammation is caused by activation of signal pathways such as
nuclear factor kappaB (NF-␬B) by various intrinsic (dysfunctions as
a consequence of aging) and extrinsic (exposition to polluting
chemicals, smoke, UV-radiation) impacts. A consequence is the
release of inflammatory mediators such as pro-inflammatory
cytokines, the expression of MMPs and the stimulation of cyclooxygenase enzymes (COX-2) which mediate the production of proinflammatory prostaglandins (PEG2). It could be demonstrated that
guggulsterones are able to down-regulate and balance this cascade
of inflammatory events 7) and that myrrhanol as well has significant
anti-inflammatory effect 8).
Conclusion
With increasing lifetime and number of the 40+ generation cosmetic ingredients providing anti-aging benefits are a big trend. Both
certified organic soy germ extract and the natural guggul extract
formulation fulfil these requirements and are promising candidates
for the creation of cosmetic products which inhibit photo-aging, act
against degenerative skin conditions and restore a healthy skin function.
Inflammation is often affiliated with damaging free radicals and
oxidative stress. In this regard guggul constituents like cembrenoids,
lignans and sterones make also a positive impact 9).
References
1) Grether-Beck S, Salahshour-Fard M, Timmer A, Brenden H, Felsner I, Walli R,
Füllekrug J, Krutmann J: Ceramide and raft signaling are linked with each
other in UVA radiation-induced gene expression. Oncogene 27: 4768-4778,
2008;
A new aspect of guggul efficacy is the ability to stimulate adenosine monophosphate-activated protein kinase (AMPK) which upregulates cellular energy production by phosphorylation of key
enzymes in metabolic pathways. AMPK stimulation could be demonstrated for the supercritical guggul-triheptanoin formulation in a cell
free enzyme test (Figure 3). The results were confirmed by a cell
based bio-assay which involved other co-factors.
2) Grether-Beck S, Mühlberg K, Brenden H, Krutmann J: Topische Applikation
von Vitaminen, Phytosterolen und Ceramiden. Hautarzt 59: 557-562, 2008;
3) Doering T, Holtkötter O, Schlotmann K, Jassoy C, Petersohn D, Wadle A, Waldmann-Laue M: Cutaneous restructuration by apple seed phytosterols: from
DNA chip analysis to morphological alterations. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 27(2):
142, 2005;
4) Puglia C, Bonina F: In vivo spectrophotometric evaluation of skin barrier
recovery after topical application of soybean phytosterols. J. Cosmet. Sci. 59:
217-224, 2008;
5) Shishodia S, Aggarwal BB: Guggulsterone inhibits NF-kappaB and IkappaBalpha kinase activation, suppresses expression of anti-apoptotic gene products, and enhances apoptosis. J. Biol. Chem. 279: 47148-47158, 2004;
6) Yang JY, Della-Fera MA, Baile CA: Guggulsterone inhibits adipocyte differentiation and induces apoptosis in 3T3-L1 cells. Obesity 16: 16-22, 2008;
7) Song JJ, Kwon SK, Cho CG, Park SW, Chae SW: Guggulsterone suppresses LPS
induced inflammation of human middle ear epithelial cells (HMEEC). Int. J.
Pediatr. Otorhinolaryngol. 74(12): 1384-7, 2010;
8) Kimura I, Yoshikawa M, Kobayashi S, Sugihara Y, Suzuki M, Oominami H,
Murakami T, Matsuda H, Doiphode VV: New triterpenes, myrrhanol A and
myrrhanone A, from guggul-gum resins, and their potent anti-inflammatory
effect on adjuvant-induced air-pouch granuloma of mice. Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry Letters 11(8): 985-989, 2001;
9) Chander R, Khanna AK, Pratap R: Antioxidant activity of guggulsterone, the
active principal of guggulipid from Commiphora mukul. J. Med. Arom. Plant
Sci. 24: 370–374, 2002;
Figure 3: AMPK stimulation by guggul-triheptanoin (GU-TC) formulation 10)
7/8-2011
10) Test report by www.dharmabiomedical.com.
18
EURO COSMETICS
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benefits with bubbling functions.
HIGH LY VOL ATILE FIFLOW® BB 61
provides instant bubbling effects for cosmetic
applications. Ideal for bath and cleansing products,
where visual foaming is desired.
INCI: Perfluorohexane (and) Perfluorodecalin
(and) Pentafluoropropane
FIFLOW® BB 76
creates a bubbling oxygen bath for the skin. Ideal for
rejuvenating mask and cream applications, where skin
metabolism is improved.
INCI: Perfluorohexane (and) Perfluorodecalin
(and) Pentafluoropropane
creationscouleurs.com
[email protected]
tel: +33 237 42 18 34
Intelligent Delivery Systems
for Enhancing the Performance
of Active Ingredients in Skin Care Formulations
By Ameann DeJohn* and Meyer R. Rosen CPC, CChE, FRSC, FAIC**
the effectiveness of expensive, often degradable active ingredients. If
the actives degrade, do not penetrate, or are not delivered to the
proper sites, they will not be employed to their full extent, and may
not live up to their full potential of benefits and claims.
The skin is a miraculous organ and the cosmetic & personal care
industry continues to make improvements on how to maintain the
health and beauty of this organ, the largest in the body. Much of the
radiant youthful glow on the skin is often achieved through the delivery of advanced, active skin care products. These products are
designed to work effectively on the surface of the skin. However the
performance of the most effective products are boosted by new active
ingredient technology and most importantly by new targeted systems
that deliver the active ingredients to defined areas of the skin in order
to achieve the most desirable results.
Skin Penetration Mechanisms
The skin can be penetrated via two general mechanisms: physical
means or chemical means. Types of physical penetration mechanisms
include iontophoresis, or use of a small electric charge, electrical currents, thermal, light or ultrasound energy. Chemical penetration can
be achieved by means of: organic solvents, fatty acids, alcohols, surfactants, or proprietary enhancers. While facilitation of chemical
penetration techniques can be characterized as “simple” delivery systems, there are other more complex approaches to achieving the
described goals. Current formulas use a variety of these ingredients in
many different combinations and spatial arrangements to act as more
sophisticated delivery systems.
Delivery system technology can be divided into two areas. The first
is “surface/topical” delivery- as defined by the FDA in the U.S. as “cosmetics” and the second is delivery below (into/past) the “surface”.
Depending upon the depth of penetration and whether the material
gets into the blood stream, such materials are characterized by the
FDA as “drugs”, or in industry parlance -API’s (active pharmaceutical
ingredients). There is a gray area between the two legal distinctions
and this is unregulated. Into this breach, the industry has spent much
research and time to develop active ingredients that have been shown
and claimed to provide performance craved by the rapidly increasing
consumer demand from both seniors and their progeny.
Whether entering the skin physically or chemically there are
three types of methods to achieve cell layer penetration. Transcellular Penetration goes into and through the stratum corneum
cells. Intercellular Penetration goes around and through the
overlapping stratum corneum cells. Transappendageal penetration
takes other pathways in the skin, such as through the openings
around hair follicles via sebaceous glands and into sweat glands.
The transappendageal route is known as a shunt route and is less
important as it represents a small penetration area of the total skin
surface.
As the quest for youthful skin continues, the market for anti- aging
skin care is exponentially accelerating. Thousands of formulas exist
that promise the key to youthful, vibrant skin. However, for the active
ingredients in these skin care formulations to perform optimally, they
must penetrate into the targeted areas of skin and perform specified
claimed advantages. Actives that “sit” on top of the stratum corneum,
the dead cellular level, will provide only temporary and minimal
benefits. Actives that are delivered deeper into the living layers of skin
cells are able to work more efficiently and make significant changes in
skin appearance and quality. The key to achieving this improvement
is how and when the actives are delivered, and what trigger is
employed to deliver them to the most beneficial destination on/in the
skin.
Delivery systems produce beneficial enhancement of active ingredients and they help the skin obtain the maximum benefits attainable.
Due to expanding and more restrictive global regulations on skin care
ingredients, one “low hanging fruit” approach to success is to utilize
skin-value ingredients already on the market but make them more
effective. Essentially, we want our existing, accepted, active ingredients to perform and safely produce well documented beneficial results
to work better than when used alone. To accomplish this a successful
delivery system is the key to creating formulas that deliver the ingredients and obtaining the desired results.
Actives penetration into the layers of skin can be achieved by means
of carefully designed delivery systems. These systems serve as a
“vehicle” for the delivery of active ingredients into the skin layers.
Such targeted delivery systems have been instrumental in optimizing
* President: Ameann Solutions, LLC · Finding Solutions for the Beauty Industry, · 19360 Rinaldi Street, Suite 130 · Northridge, CA 91326, USA·Tel: (818) 521-4593; [email protected]
** President: Interactive Consulting, Inc. · P.O. Box 66 · East Norwich, New York, USA · Tel: (516) 922-2167; [email protected]
7/8-2011
20
EURO COSMETICS
non-biodegradable. The appeal of microsponges stem from their
ability to overcome the difficulties experienced with conventional
delivery systems, and their capability to effectively release active
ingredients over an extended period of time.
Let’s take a look at some of the various types of
delivery systems available to the skin care market
●
●
●
●
●
Liposomes are known as the first generation of novel delivery systems. These have been the choice delivery approaches of many
skin care and cosmetic formulators for many years. Liposomes are
hollow, fluid-like vessels (vesicles) in spherical shape, which contain one or many lipid layers. These fluid-like spheres bring the
active ingredients into the skin and are then slowly released.
Niosomes are vesicular systems similar to liposomes and can be
used as carriers of amphiphilic and lipophilic drugs or cosmetic
actives. A major cosmetic company first devised them for cosmetic
applications. Niosomes are non-ionic. They are generally less toxic
than the ionic types, and improve the therapeutic index of cosmetic
actives or API’s by restricting their action to target specific cells.
Microcapsules are a well-known and long existing commercial offer
the same benefit as liposomes and provide time-release of the active
ingredients. These are generally of small spherical or oblong shape
with an internal core or “fill” and an external shell or membrane.
Microcapsules require a shearing stress in the form of rubbing to
disrupt the shell and release the internally held active ingredients.
This characteristic is ideal for topical cosmetics and personal care
products. However, it is essential to design the strength of the
microcapsule wall so that the shear rate induced by the topical
application (i.e. rubbing) will disrupt the membrane wall and
release the contained active ingredients. In recent years, the microencapsulation approach has morphed towards systems with
improved stability and efficacy in delivering actives. Multi-layer
spheres are now capable of stabilizing both hydrophobic and hydrophilic actives- thereby preventing oxidization and discoloration of
the finished formula.
Hydrogels are sustained release delivery systems which are hydophillic polymers. Plants, seaweed, animal tissue and chitin are all
examples of hydrogels found in nature. Hydrogels swell with imbibition of the external aqueous phase and such swelling is dependent upon the polymer(s) employed as well as other factors. It is
widely believed that hydrogels offer a viable pathway of absorption/
release of hydrophilic ingredients.
●
Aspasomes were originally formed when ascorbyl palmitate was
explored as a bi-layered vesicle. Aspasomes can encapsulate hydrophilic ingredients and enhance skin permeation.
●
Organogels are clear, thermodynamically stable, viscoelastic and
biocompatible jelly-like phases composed of hydrated phospholipids and an organic liquid.
●
Patch Delivery Systems are release liners that deliver the active
through the skin. Patch Delivery Systems were developed for the
pharmaceutical companies to control drug administration through
the skin. However, cosmetic companies are now borrowing the
patch technology for cosmetic use and this pathway serves as an
excellent example of actives transfer as well as technology transfer!
Patch systems deliver actives through five components. The liner
protects the patch while not in use. The active pharmaceutical
ingredient, or cosmetic active, is impregnated into the patch. The
adhesive binds the components of the patch and adheres to the
skin. The membrane controls the release time for the active. Lastly,
the backing is the part exposed to the air, which protects the
actives at all times. These parts work as the sum of the whole to
infuse the active into the skin.
Nanotechnology is relatively new to the cosmetics and skin care
world, however the original technology has been in existence since
1959. Nanotechnology refers to a delivery methodology into and
through some or all of the skin layers by means of a nanometer sized
particles, approximately one-billionth of a meter. Such particles
can only been viewed through very powerful microscopes. There is
much controversy surrounding this technology in terms of potential safety, or lack thereof, in view of the fact that for cosmetic use it
is speculated, or demonstrated in some cases, that contained actives
may reach the bloodstream in view of their ability to cross cell
membranes. The FDA (U.S.) and Royal Society (UK) have issued
statements calling for continued, appropriate testing. This is an
emerging field with many variations and the anticipated path of
safety evaluation, for each individual nanoparticle type is a long
road yet to be travelled.
●
Proprietary delivery systems designed for specific products
Niadyne, Inc. uses a patented MicroNutrient delivery system in
their 24 skin care products. Micronutrient delivery allows ingredients to penetrate the epidermis in slow, continuous release.
This allows time for the molecule to bio-convert to its working
form.
Conrex PET (Permeation Enhancement Technology) is one of the
few proprietary enhancers that have FDA approval in the U.S.,
and has been clinically shown to deliver molecules transdermally.
The method works topically as well and this capability has been
demonstrated to increase actives’ efficacy. In view of the fact
that PET is composed of naturally occurring compounds that are
non-toxic, non-irritating and non-allergenic, it is considered a
“safe” penetration enhancer.
Microsponge Technology is a patented, polymeric delivery system
that is non-irritating, non-mutagenic, non-allergenic, non-toxic and
7/8-2011
●
21
EURO COSMETICS
PET™ works by solubilizing the active ingredient(s) within the
polymeric matrices and temporarily modifying the permeability
of the skin. This approach enables large, selected molecules to
pass between and through the skin cells of the stratum corneum,
stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum and ultimately reaching
the deeper layers of the skin (stratum spinosum, stratum basale).
This delivery system can be found in SESHA Cosmeceutical skincare products.
●
Transferosomes are supramolecular delivery system bodies that
can pass through a permeability barrier. They are more elastic
than liposomes. Transfersomes technology is drawn to water and
these ultra-deformable vesicles can be loaded with active ingredients. When the technology is used in cosmetic formulas the carrier searches and exploits the hydrophilic pathways. This process
permits the vesicle to pass through the barrier and release the
active. This is the proprietary technology of a drug delivery system developed by a German company known as IDEA AG.
●
Invisicare Polymer delivery system is specifically formulated to carry
water insoluble actives and certain cationic active ingredients in
water-based products without the use of alcohol, silicones, waxes
or other organic solvents. Invisicare Polymer is a patented polymer
delivery system with a unique formula and process for combining
active ingredients in a delivery system that extends the duration of
time the active remains on the skin and active.
Foreseeable Challenges and Future Value of
Delivery-Systems-to-Come
Challenges proliferate when working with skin care delivery systems. There is not a one-size-fits-all system. Advanced active ingredients must be correctly paired with delivery systems that work to
deliver their benefits most efficiently and yet remain stable and intact.
However, it is important in such systems that the actives do not
become too potent since this can lead to potential toxicity.
Whichever method of delivery is chosen, delivery systems provide
a better functioning product. Moreover, they provide numerous
attractive aspects for the consumer. In general, consumers may initially purchase products because of claims and social media input.
However, delivery systems may assist in the claims that can be made
for products because of the value they add. When companies develop
their delivery systems, they typically conduct trials that demonstrate
the product’s efficacy. This information easily transforms and can be
effectively translated to interesting marketing claims for your product.
By using a delivery technology one is able to develop products with
immediately perceivable and long-term results. Later, customers
repeat purchase because of performance they can see and feel. These
claims differentiate products from the competition and provide credibility.
Lipoderm® Core, is a proprietary and patent-pending blend of ingredients that claims transdermal action when added to an emulsion.
Lipoderm® Core improves efficacy and delivery of active ingredients in personal care formulations. The technology works by creating a small amount of disorganization in the stratum corneum, thus
opening up channels in the lipid matrix of the skin. The technology
is effectively with a large number of chemical structures, both polar
and non-polar and is available from PCCA.
Transcutol™ CG (diethylene glycol monoethyl) has the ability to
attract and hold water. It is soluble in both water and oil and
capable of forming an intracutaneous API depot, or reservoir, for
the active ingredient. Transcutol™ CG is easily combined with
polar and non polar solvents. It is highly valued because of its
bio-compatability with the skin and has great solubilizing properties. Transcutol™ CG is the available from Gattefosse.
Conclusions
ActivBoost by Technology Recovery Systems, LLC is a unique,
patented anti-aging, moisturizing delivery system that is nonirritating and all natural. In a time predictable and reversible
manner, ActivBoost's Hydroxide Releasing Agent (tm) system is
capable of delivering many actives to and into the skin in dosages previously thought to be impossible. The ActivBoost system works by creating water channels in the stratum corneum.
These channels provide a method of delivering both hydrophilic and lipophilic molecules to the skin and surrounding
tissues. All the components of ActivBoost are on the FDA's IIG
list.
●
Using a delivery system creates a superior product that penetrates
more effectively and feels better on the skin. All of these attributes are
influential on consumer behavior and repeat spending patterns.
Products with delivery systems to boost the actives penetrate more
deeply thereby providing enhanced efficacy and generate enhanced
product performance and future sales.
From a value point of view, the U.S. market The market has
increased from $19 billion in 2000 to over $41 billion in 2007, according to the Journal of Cosmetic Science. With a doubling in sales in
only seven years, we can expect even more growth in the next decade. Further, the market is likely to continue to grow as companies
continue to improve upon delivery technologies and consumer
demand drives the need for better and more effective skin care products. When it comes to formulating effective skin care products, more
■
often than not, it’s all in the delivery!
Retinol Molecular Film Fluid is a new cosmetic delivery system specifically created for retinol (the well known effective anti-aging
active) that ensures stabilization of the oxidatively sensitive molecule and enchances cutaneous absorption of Vitamin A through the
epidermis.
7/8-2011
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EURO COSMETICS
All About Skin
Down To Earth - The Coming Cosmetic Trend
Organic Intelligence Today for Tomorrows Cosmetic Ingredients
According to MINTEL*, “Down to Earth” will be the key trend that
will shape the cosmetics and personal care industry in the coming
years. Plant-based ingredients, parabenfree formulas, Fair Trade
ingredients and formulations based on sustainable products will be
a key Industry Focus.
FAIR TRADE: Peru LIPACTIVE INCA INCHI
Coming from another Fair Trade Project in Peru is GREENTECH´s
famous LIPACTIVE INCA INCHI oil, which is widely used in both Skin
& Hair Care products. A recent clinical study proofed its efficiency
for improvement of Skin Elasticity already with a 1% dosage. The Oil
is both certified by NATRUE as well as from Ecocert.
“FREE FROM” Formulations
A key demand, first found in Germany, is now starting to widen
over Europe: products which are “FREE From” petro chemically
derived ingredients.
“This is the next logical step after the Organic Trend and is closely
linked to Sustainability,” says Petra Schlegel, Marketing GREENTECH
Germany.
Since many years GREENTECH is supporting FAIR TRADE Projects such as:
FAIR TADE: Burkina Faso- LIPACTIVE BAOBAB
In 1999 a Fair Trade project in Burkina Faso was initiated by
GREENTECH, where 20 women would harvest Baobab Seed and
pulp with their traditional methods.
The financial benefit for these women is equal to 1 year value of
cotton harvest by men or 1 month salary in Ouagadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso.
“We are very proud of having engaged in these Fair Trade Projects
at such an early stage, so today we are in a position to fulfill the
growing demand in these products,” says Jean-Yves Berthon, CEO of
GREENTECH.
Today GREENTECH offers several organic products from Baobab
Oil and Extracts up to Organic BAOBAB Soft Butter which provides an
extremely nice and silky touch. All certified by Ecocert.
Especially the strongly growing market of “Silver Agers” and
“LOHAS” (Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability) customers will be
appreciating this trend. These customers look back at a 30 to 40
years experience in the cosmetic market and can not be quickly won
by “false promises”. They are very demanding and willing to pay a
premium price for premium quality.
It´s all about protecting our skin.
More information:
http://www.greentechgmbh.de/produkte/lipactives/
* Mintel Market Intelligence: http://www.mintel.com
7/8-2011
23
EURO COSMETICS
■
NEW INGREDIENTS
Shin-Etsu silicones introduces
new emulsifiers, emollients,
and addtives for formulators
A pioneer in the field of silicones for personal care products, Shin-Etsu Silicones of
America (SESA: A U.S. subsidiary of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd., Japan) has recently
developed a new generation of cosmetic
silicone system products that collectively,
and independently, offer formulators distinct characteristics that deliver key stability, functionality, and sensory advantages
based on their application for a wide variety
of cosmetic products.
The system is comprised of the KSG-360Z
silicone gel emulsifier, the KSP-441 hybrid
silicone powder, and the DMF-2 high purity,
low residual dimethicone fluid, respectively.
Each product in the system also provides an
effective, quality alternative to D5 siloxanes
and D5 derivative materials. Whereas the
collective products in the system work well
together−each product offers independent
performance property and sensory benefits
including:
System / Product Profile
KSG-360Z: This series’ crosslinked elastomer silicone gels are emulsifying agents with
an excellent, smooth-skin feel that can be
used to produce unique water-in-silicone
and water in-oil products. The products are
viscous gels utilizing dimethicone, volatile
silicone or isododecane as the diluent. They
function as unique emulsifiers with broad
compatibility to improve the active stability
of personal care products such as anti-aging
skin care, sunscreens, foundations, and lipsticks.The 3D crosslinked fine particles used
for KSG-360Z contain 2 types of branches−
silicone chains and alkyl chains−that are not
involved in crosslinking. The resulting gels
exhibit high swelling properties in both silicone fluids and organic oils− thus, expanding the range of choice for compatible base
oils.
The KSG-360Z’s unique properties (based
on structure) also deliver vital active stabilization to antioxidant additives like Vitamin
C−allowing it to combine with UV filters to
boost the effectiveness of SPF (Sun Protection Factor).This allows formulators to easily
incorporate and stabilize Vitamin C antioxidants−essentially providing an all-in-one stabilization sunscreen solution.
As the KSG-360Z contains all liquid ingredients and efficiently emulsifies with low
energy, processing benefits are also achieved;
no high-energy equipment or heating is
necessary.
KSP-441: Specifically developed for
achieving high absorption of organic oils,
the KSP-441 is a unique hybrid silicone powder consisting of a silicone rubber core with
The new website!
Get online and explore!
7/8-2011
24
EURO COSMETICS
NEW INGREDIENTS
a silicone resin shell. This unique combination offers both the flexibility of silicone
rubber and the lubricity of silicone resin.
Because of their excellent absorbability of
organic oils, they can be added to cosmeticproduct applications to control the feeling
of the finished products as well as to improve the application feeling on the skin.
The KSP-441 helps with the stability of
cosmetic products while enhancing the
sensory benefits of the finished products
such as a matte appearance, silky skin feel,
and soft-focus effect that helps realize natural and beautiful skin for an extended time.
The average particle diameter is 12µm and
the particles serve as microscopic sponges
that absorb sebum from skin; thus providing
anti-shine benefits. They also maximize
specular reflectance; giving a matte look and
masking fine lines.The KSP-441 powders are
also highly transparent; giving a natural look.
Processing benefits are also achieved as it
offers excellent swelling capability, is freeflowing and easy to incorporate. They are
also effective as an oil phase thickener that
improves stability and doesn’t agglomerate.
Based on these superior characteristics, it is
being used in various cosmetic products for
the purpose of both improving skin feel and
adding functionality in applications such as
anti-aging products, skin lotions and cream,
anhydrous skin treatment serums, powder
foundations and blushes, liquid foundations
and creams, hot pour, and mascaras.
DMF-2: Designed specifically to provide
cosmetic formulators with an effective, quality alternative to D5 siloxanes and D5 derivative materials, Shin-Etsu’s DM-Fluid-2cs
(DMF-2) is a high purity, low residual dimethicone fluid. With properties of a low 2cs
(centistokes) viscosity and near-zero (0.1)
skin irritation rating, the volatile DMF-2 fluid
delivers an enhanced sensory cosmetic solution for applications ranging from foundation and makeup products to skin care, hair
care, and sunscreens. Due to its high purity/
low residual composition, the INCI listed
DMF-2 is a preferred non-reactive delivery
agent that easily rubs in and will flash off the
skin over time− leaving a comfortably silky,
skin feel.
The DMF-2 diluent system has a higher
flash-point than D5 −and is therefore less
combustible. The flash point is high enough
that there’s no need for processing concerns
and it can be easily heated if necessary. Cold
processing is made simpler using the derivative products as they are often suitable for
ambient, room-temperature processing.
According to SESA’s North America Marketing Manager Eric Bishop,“The DMF-2 system represents a functional and versatile
alternative for formulators. It allows them to
formulate away from D5 siloxanes and D5
derivatives and still produce effective products that deliver many levels of the enhanced
sensory properties of silicone.”
For more detailed information on
KSG-360Z/KSP-441/DMF-2 contact: [email protected]
Ray Farrar / Method Media LLC
[email protected]
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■
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7/8-2011
25
EURO COSMETICS
NEW INGREDIENTS
nien für natürliche Kosmetika überein –
EcoCert zertifiziert.
Arch ReGeniStem™ Red Rice
Arch is pleased to introduce their next
generation biotech active, ReGeniStem™
Red Rice, a product of their expertise in
plant sciences and biofermentation which
promotes a controlled environment for
growing natural sustainable botanicals.
It is produced by a
patented process that
uses ozone to stress
the meristem culture
obtained from Himalayan Red Rice. In vitro
treatment with 2% ReGeniStem™ Red Rice
encourages the demethylation of CpG islands in the gene promoter regions despite
exposure to UVB making the aged cells
behave more like young cells, increases
collagen production and upregulates dermatopontin expression which may be able
to fi rm the skin and influence the skin barrier function especially in the dermis and
epidermis.
It rejuvenates the skin for anti-wrinkle,
anti-aging and skin firming benefits and
helps the skin cope with environmental
stresses.
An ECOCERT approved grade, ReGeniStem™ Red Rice ECT, is also available.
www.archpersonalcare.com
■
Nordmann Rassmann
Produkterweiterung
durch Meadowfoam Seed Oil
Nordmann, Rassmann vertreibt aktuell
das neue Fancor® Meadowfoam Seed Oil
von Elementis Specialties. Das natürliche Öl
wird aus der amerikanischen Sumpfblume
Limnanthes alba gewonnen und gehört der
Familie des Wiesenschaumkrauts an. Es
wächst vorzugsweise in Kalifornien und
Oregon, USA. Fancor® Meadowfoam Seed
Oil ist lange haltbar und zeichnet sich durch
eine gute Kompatibilität in Pflege-Produkten aus. Es ist lösemittelfrei, nachhaltig in
der Produktion und stimmt mit den Richtli-
Des Weiteren überzeugt es durch seine
hohe Stabilität gegen Oxidation (OSI), und
kann daher als natürlicher Antioxidant bezeichnet werden. Anwendung findet es in
Haar- und Hautpflegeprodukten. Fancor®
Meadowfoam Seed Oil bewirkt eine natürliche Pflege und Glanz in Haarpflegeprodukten. In Gesichtspflegeprodukten verbessert
es u. a die Pigmentdispergierung.
NRC vertreibt Fancor® Meadowfoam
Seed Oil in Deutschland, Österreich, der
Schweiz, Skandinavien und in Osteuropa.
■
www.nrc.de
Nordmann Rassmann
Mit High Oleic Brassica Oil®
von AAK erweitert Nordmann,
Rassmann seine Produktrange
im Bereich Life Sciences
Aus qualitativ hochwertigen Rapssamen
gewonnen, wird das Öl mechanisch extrahiert, gereinigt und desodoriert, um eine
hohe Reinheit zu erzielen. Mit seinem niedrigen Gehalt an Linol- und Linolensäure ist
High Oleic Brassica Oil® hochstabil: Die
Haltbarkeit liegt bei mindestens 12 Monaten.
High Oleic Brassica Oil® – INCI Name:
Brassica Campestris Seed Oil – zeichnet sich
durch seinen hohen Ölsäuregehalt aus und
ersetzt so andere herkömmliche Öle wie
bspw. Sonnenblumenöl. Anwendung findet
High Oleic Brassica Oil® vor allem in pflegenden Bade- und Duschölen und ist insbesondere für Baby- und andere
Sensitive-Produkte geeignet. Aufgrund
des niedrigen Trübungspunktes von 0°C
sind klare Formulierungen kein Problem.
Nordmann Rassmann vertreibt High
Oleic Brassica Oil® in Deutschland, Österreich und der Schweiz, Kroatien, Slowenien,
Serbien, Dänemark, Finnland, Norwegen,
Schweden.
■
www.nrc.de
7/8-2011
26
EURO COSMETICS
Greentech
Seidenglatte HautFür Beine, Brust, Rücken,
Achseln und „Bikinizone”.
Seltener rasieren, dank ARP 100
Das Thema des Sommers: Rasieren, epilieren oder wachsen? Egal wie, Hauptsache
die störenden Härchen sind weg und kommen auch nicht so schnell wieder. Der
Wirkstoff ARP 100 reduziert deutlich das
Nachwachsen der unerwünschten Härchen.
Triple Effekt
von ARP 100 hemmt Haarwachstum
ARP 100 ist ein Wirkstoffkomplex aus
pflanzlichen Extrakten, der das Nachwachsen der Haare verzögert. Er besteht
aus 3 unterschiedlichen Pflanzen: Dem
Weidenröschen, mit antibakteriellen und
entzündungshemmenden Eigenschaften.
Der Sägepalme, sie reduziert die Steroid5␣-Reduktase. Dies wird durch die Samen
des Kürbis, verstärkt.
ARP 100
verlangsamt das Haarwachstum bereits
nach wenigen Tagen.
● reduziert die Wachstumsgeschwindigkeit
sowie die Haardicke für spürbar glatt- und
weich-gepflegte Haut.
● reduziert die Anzahl der erforderlichen
Rasuren.
● reduziert die Synthese von Entzündungsmediatoren, die Haare wachsen langsamer.
●
Zusatznutzen für Deos:
Länger zart gepflegte Achseln
Der Deodorantien Markt verzeicht starkes
Wachstum – ARP 100 bietet hier die Möglichkeit, Ihrer Formulierung mit einen sicheren
und sanften Wirkstoff, einen Zusatznutzen
zu verleihen. Die Achseln bleiben länger zart
gepflegt, der unerwünschte Haarwuchs tritt
später ein, die Haare sind somit weicher und
dünner.
www.greentechgmbh.de
■
NEW INGREDIENTS
BASF at 2011 Sepawa Congress
– enabling choices for
efficient solutions meeting
the latest market trends
Arch The Care Chemicals’ division will
present its latest solutions for the personal
care, home care as well as industrial and
institutional cleaning (I&I) markets. This
year’s booth will showcase innovative
concepts and products, plus formulations
that can help BASF’s customers meet consumers’ demands. The company will also
take part in the Sepawa Conference Program and the Forum for Innovation,
where it will share its expertise in innovative product development.
An ongoing trend in the home care and
I&I market is the growing demand for solutions that are convenient and effective, as
well as efficient and sustainable. BASF will
present a range of products that help manufacturers to meet these consumers’ demand.
One of these is a new environmental
friendly surfactant for highly concentrated
liquid detergents. It is based on renewable
methyl ester and provides high detergency
even at low washing temperatures. In addition special surfactants for cleaning hard
surfaces will be presented.
These can optimize the use of antibacterial products, without compromising on
cleaning performance. Also, part of the
broad BASF portfolio for Home Care and I&I
are special additives, such as rinse aid surfactants, complexing agents and polymers.
These can be used as alternative to phosphates in automatic dishwashing formulations, still ensuring high performance.
BASF’s experts will also provide insight into
innovative odor-control technologies for
the home care and I&I market.
Personal care concepts
for enhanced well-being
Drawing on its extensive formulation expertise and in-depth knowledge of the market, BASF will also present personal care
7/8-2011
27
EURO COSMETICS
solutions that focus on enhancing consumers’ sense of well-being. Sensitive skin is a
very common condition nowadays, and the
demand for tailored products is constantly
increasing. With its “Sensitive Skin” concept, BASF offers its customers formulations
for various high-performance skin care and
cleansing products. These formulations
have all been dermatologically proven as
suitable for use on sensitive skin.
The condition of people’s hair also plays
an important role in their sense of personal
well-being, and so BASF will present “Wash
Treat Style” at the Sepawa Congress comprising of test methods for performance parameters in hair washing treatments and
includes surfactants, conditioners and styling components. “Wash Treat Style” precisely meets customer demands for various
properties such as foam, mildness, combability, anti-hairbreakage, repair, long lasting
and extra strong hold, and enables them to
develop new formats.
www.basf.com
■
EXHIBITION/CONGRESS/WORKSHOP
HBA GLOBAL 2011 ATTRACTED KEY DECISION MAKERS
As the leading event for product development initiatives, HBA Global Expo &
Conference once again provided a strong
business-building and educational platform
for the cosmetics, fragrance, personal care,
and skin care and wellness industries.
Detailed audience analysis for the event
that took place June 28-30, 2011 at the Jacob
K. Javits Convention Center in New York
showed:
● 17% increase in Brand Manager titles
● 15% increase in Product Development/
Management titles
● 12% increase in CEO/Owner/Corporate
Management titles
HBA Global 2011 also saw a 17% increase
in attendees who worked for either a marketer, manufacturer, or distributor of cosmetics, fragrance and personal care as well
as an uptick in retailers and wholesalers attending the show. For 40% of the attendees,
HBA Global is the only trade show and conference that they attend.
In addition HBA Global found that these
qualified attendees are starting to invest
again in new innovations and product development resources with:
● 10% increase in those being able to approve or recommend suppliers seen at
the show
● 3% increase in attendees who have a
$500,000 or more budget to spend on
HBA products and services
Of significant note, was that HBA Global
in June had an increase in European exhibitors with Polo Cosmesi bringing a contingent of top companies among other
companies.
With close to 16,000 attendees, HBA
Global continues to be the premier source
for the product development community
and also a leading educational provider with
more than 60 sessions in the Marketing,
Technical, Skin Care, Global Perspectives
and Green Tracks.
Another highlight of HBA Global was a
13% increase in VIP participants. The HBA
VIP Program provides buying teams from
major brands and niche players with specialized on-site amenities to enhance their
HBA experience and includes a business
lounge with private meeting rooms and an
area to relax from the show floor.
With “networking opportunities” and
“discovering new innovations” identified as
key objectives for HBA attendees, the event
also offered and showcased these areas of
interests:
● The Map Your Show Planner online interactive tool had 4,800+ meeting agenda
plans created in advance of the show.
● The Trends Zone featuring the HBA New
Products Showcase--with 37% more new
products showcased.
● The HBA Keynote presentation with Dan
Brestle, an Estee Lauder Company veteran, providing insight on how communications is a key to success and Mike Indursky
of Bliss World, energizing attendees on
new ways to market brands and stay
ahead of the competition.
● The Positively Beautiful Award to Kelly
Choi, National TV Personality, in recogni-
7/8-2011
28
EURO COSMETICS
●
●
●
tion of her charitable work with AngelWish and City Meals on Wheels.
The International Package Design Awards
ceremony and reception with a welcome
by Anisa International and awards presentation by TV personality, Lady Emmy. The
Grand Award went to the Stila Color Wheel
Palette in the Cosmetics Prestige Category.
All the winners can be viewed here:
http://www.hbaexpo.com/ipda_2011
winners
For the first time, as part of the DOC International Buyers Program, HBA also had
an increase in international delegates and
an on-site International Business Center
for export and import counseling and
meetings.
The Social Spot featuring Tweet-ups, the
popular Beauty Bloggers meet and greet,
and a “Social Media and New Career Directions,” panel.
In 2012, HBA Global Expo & Conference
will take place June 19-21, again at the Jacob
K. Javits Convention Center.
contact
[email protected] or
www.hbaexpo.com
■
POWTECH / TechnoPharm 2011:
Countdown für die Branchenhighlights im Herbst
Erstmals sind eine App und mobile Seiten verfügbar
Die ausstellenden Unternehmen sind
stets der Kern einer informativen Fachmesse. Vom 11. bis 13. Oktober 2011 werden
erneut über 1.000 Aussteller aus aller Welt
in Nürnberg erwartet, um in den sechs
Hallen der POWTECH und TechnoPharm
Produkte und Dienstleistungen aus den Bereichen mechanische Verfahrenstechnik,
Analytik und Life Science Technologien zu
präsentieren. Ergänzt werden die Fachmessen von einem besonders umfangreichen
Rahmenprogramm: Vom Explosionsschutz
über „Hygienic Design“ bis zum Cleanroom
Village und nachhaltigen Verpackungslösungen. Um hier bereits im Vorfeld den Überblick behalten zu können, bietet die
NürnbergMesse erstmals einen neuen Service an: Dank App und mobiler Seiten kön-
nen Nutzer mobiler Endgeräte auch von
unterwegs ihren Besuch in Nürnberg optimal vorbereiten.
POWTECH und TechnoPharm machen
2011 erstmals mobil. Ob in Form einer iPhone-App oder in Form von mobilen Seiten:
Wer sich von unterwegs über das Messeduo
informieren möchte, kann dies ab Mitte Juli
auf komfortable Art und Weise tun. Die App
bietet zahlreiche Services: Von einer kompletten Ausstellerliste – abrufbar nach Suchbegriffen, alphabetisch oder nach Platzierung
– über das Rahmenprogramm, die Geländeund Hallenpläne bis hin zu den Öffnungszeiten oder Eintrittspreisen.
Zugang zur iPhone-App über den AppStore oder auf der Veranstaltungshomepage.
Zugang zu den mobilen Seiten über:
m.powtech.de und m.technopharm.de
Alle Infos, Hallenpläne und Ausstellerlisten
zum Fachmessenduo unter:
www.POWTECH.de und
www.TechnoPharm.de
■
COSMOPROF NORTH AMERICA 2011
With robust activity throughout the entire 3-day event, Cosmoprof
North America continues to demonstrate that creativity and persistence always leads to success. The amazing attendance and participation at this year’s show proves that the beauty industry is resilient and
poised for renewed growth. Serving as a powerful stage for both attendees and exhibitors, Cosmoprof North America allowed both to
connect, experience new products and conduct significant business
meetings. Encompassing all sectors of the industry under one venue,
Cosmoprof
North
America remains the
single most important
forum for the beauty
industry in the United
States.
Staying connected during Cosmoprof North America this year was
made easier by utilizing Foursquare. Prior to and during the event,
attendees and exhibitors shared where they were on the show floor
and took advantage of show specials which were only available to
users by "checking in" on their phones or hand-held devices. Attendees also gained quick access to the show floor map, found preferred
exhibitors and located products based on category, courtesy of
chirpe.com/cosmoprof2011. This interactive map feature, created
for smart phone devices, was a fi rst-time
feature debuting at
this year’s event. The
return of another
successful tool, One2-One Beauty Matchmaking
software,
delivered outstanding
results, facilitating oneon-one introductions
between manufacturers and distributors;
more than 900 appointments were generated and accepted
as requested by buyers.
The event, held at
Mandalay Bay Convention Center from
July 31st – August 2nd,
brought over 760 exhibiting companies to
a sold-out show floor
along with almost
25,000 quality attendees that included importers, distributors,
manufactures, and global beauty leaders all under one roof.
Through close-knit collaborations with countries seeking to expand their beauty trade presence, Cosmoprof North America dedicated special sections on the show floor to distinct International
Country Pavilions. Country Pavilions allow small- and medium-sized
companies from select markets to participate in the event with the
objective of obtaining direct “face time” with distributors and retailers to secure U.S. distribution. Featured countries at the 2011 show
included Argentina, Brazil, China, Italy, South Korea, and Taiwan.
Top trade publications from across the globe joined leading beauty
industry professionals at Cosmoprof North America to seek out the
newest emerging trends together with several consumer media outlets, including Lucky, Marie Claire, Celebrity Style and Women’s
Wear Daily. Cosmoprof North America also saw the continued presence of online media, which is still going strong and growing with
over 100 bloggers reporting live from the show. Beauty Blogger Central made yet another successful return featuring Bellasugar.com, Cliomakeup.com, DailyMakeover.com and Temptalia.com. These leading
online beauty editors were able to meet exhibitors in Discover Beauty
and report daily trends on their respective sites; combined these sites
have a total of over six million followers, all of whom were instantly
connected to what is new in beauty trends.
7/8-2011
Cosmoprof North America 2012 is planned for July 22-24 at the
Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas.
www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
30
EURO COSMETICS
■
LUXE PACK MONACO 2011
The premier show for creative packaging
From Wednesday October 19th thru Friday October 21st 2011
At the Grimaldi Forum
The 24th edition of LUXE PACK MONACO
will be held from 19 to 21 October 2011 at
the Grimaldi Forum. LUXE PACK MONACO
is a unique opportunity for luxury brands
decision makers to find a comprehensive
offer of packaging solutions, all materials
together, and find inspiration.
The widest exhibitors offer
LUXE PACK MONACO offers the most
comprehensive range of packaging suppliers for the luxury industry of packaging
trade shows and this, for all materials and
know-how: glass, plastic, paper, cardboard,
pumps, ribbons, boxes, samples labels, not
to mention the designers, decorating techniques, finishing, ....
LUXE PACK MONACO 2011 can announce
that the exhibition is full as usual, after a
careful selection of new exhibitors has been
completed.
The three-day show will be punctuated
Part of them will have integrated sustain-
with conferences and debates on current
topics, led by renowned experts and entertainment areas for inspiration: design, luxury codes, trends, spirits pack revolution,
sustainable trend, luxury Chinese development…
able development criteria. Thus, the displays and the 2011 Luxe Pack in green
Award will be there to guide visitors, always
looking for eco-designed solutions.
More than 6 out of 10
exhibitors dedicate
their launches to
LUXE PACK MONACO!
LUXE PACK MONACO is the unique exhibition in which more than 6 out of 10 exhibitors show their launches as preview!
Innovation is everywhere on the stands,
and appears on the "Innovation Forum",
showcases and workshops presenting the
exhibitors’ innovations and launches.
The 2011 edition promises to provide visitors with ingenious new packaging solutions.
The Luxe Pack Trends
Observer: an even more
extensive analysis
Decoding the launches of the year to
identify areas of future development is the
objective of the Trends Observer. It gives
indications of the current trends and helps
brands in their future developments.
For that purpose, LUXE PACK MONACO
brought together a panel of experts in packaging design and creation; and to go further
and deeper in this analysis, they are joined
this year by a sociologist and an expert in
market research and forecasting.
www.luxepack.com
The new website!
Get online and explore!
7/8-2011
31
EURO COSMETICS
■
NEW PRODUCTS
Kosmetik aus 1.001 Nacht
retipalm derma cosmetic präsentiert
Dermal Future / spürbarer Lifting-Effekt
dank exklusivem Wirkstoffkomplex
und Arganöl / Hightech-Pflege
made in Germany
Als Ergebnis intensiver Forschung präsentiert retipalm jetzt eine bahnbrechende
Anti-Aging-Pflege auf dem neuesten Stand
der Wissenschaft, die Zukunft nicht nur in
ihrem Namen trägt: Dermal Future. Wertvolles Arganöl, das auch als „Gold Marokkos“ bezeichnet wird, bildet die Basis eines
exklusiven Wirkkomplexes mit spürbarem
Lifting-Effekt für eine straffere Haut und
einen jugendlich strahlenden Teint.
Lifting Concentrate, 6 Ampullen für 30 Tage
Entwickelt für die besonderen Pflegebedürfnisse der Haut ab 40, wurde die
30-Tage-Kur mit erlesenen Anti-Aging-Wirkstoffen ausgestattet. Das zu den wertvollsten Ölen der Welt zählende Damaszener
Rosenöl unterstreicht den luxuriösen Charakter dieser kostbaren Essenz, die selbst
anspruchsvolle Anwenderinnen dank sofort
sichtbarer Resultate und einer nachhaltigen
Langzeitwirkung begeistert.
● Aufwendig extrahierte natürlichen Proteinen sorgen für einen sofortigen Straffungseffekt und eine sichtbare Glättung
der Hautoberfläche.
●
Hyaluron tankt die Haut mit Feuchtigkeit
auf und verleiht ihr ein Gefühl von Zartheit und Geschmeidigkeit.
●
Glyko-Nährstoffe stimulieren die Zellfunktionen und verbessern die Elastizität
der Haut.
Optimal gepflegt und mit wertvollen
Nährstoffen in hoher Konzentration versorgt, zeigt sich der Teint von seiner seidigstrahlenden Seite.
Lifting Cream
Erlesene Inhaltsstoffe, aufwendig verarbeitet gemäß den neuesten Erkenntnissen
der Anti-Aging-Forschung, ergeben die perfekte Pflege mit einzigartiger Wirkung für
die anspruchsvolle Haut ab 40. Den luxuriösen Charakter der Creme unterstreicht
Damaszener Rosenöl, mit etwa 300 kostbaren Ingredienzien eines der wertvollsten
Öle der Welt.
● Naturreines Arganöl schützt vor freien
Radikalen.
● Lipodipeptide regen die Elastinsynthese
an und lassen die Konturen fester erscheinen.
● Ein natürlicher Glyko-Nährstoff vitalisiert
die Zellen, stärkt die Widerstandskraft
der Haut und reduziert das Erscheinungsbild tieferer Falten.
Die Cremegrundlage basiert auf einer
Derma-Membranstruktur, die dank hautidentischer Lipide in Aufbau und Zusammensetzung unserer Haut sehr nahe
kommt und die Lifting Cream dadurch
äußerst verträglich macht – selbst für sensible Haut.
Exklusiv für die Kosmetik-Kabine:
Lifting Mask
Exklusiv für Kosmetik-Institute und Apotheken mit eigenem Kosmetik-Institut wurde
die Lifting Mask zur intensiven Pflege von
Gesicht, Hals und Dekolleté entwickelt.
Reich an wertvollen Inhaltsstoffen, unterstützt die Maske die natürliche Regeneration
der Haut ab 40 und schenkt ihr neue Spannkraft und Elastizität.
7/8-2011
32
EURO COSMETICS
Alle Produkte von retipalm derma cosmetic werden in Deutschland hergestellt und
sind in ausgewählten Kosmetik-Instituten
und Apotheken mit eigenem Kosmetik-Institut erhältlich. Für optimale Verträglichkeit
und maximale Wirkung enthalten die Produkte von retipalm derma cosmetic
●
keine Paraffin- oder Mineralöle,
●
keine Farbstoffe,
●
kein Parfum,
●
keine chemischen Konservierungsstoffe,
●
keine tierischen Extrakte.
Darüber hinaus wurde keines der Produkte an Tieren getestet.
www.retipalm.de
kommpunkt Agentur für punktgenaue Kommunikation
Thorsten Külper
E-Mail: [email protected]
■
MONTEIL HYDRO CELL:
erfrischende Hautpflege
aus der Bretagne
Neu: Moisturizing Travel Kit
für den Frischekick to go
Wirkstoffe aus dem vorbeifließenden
Golfstrom, Stammzellen des Seefenchels
und ein hochwertiger Algenextrakt bilden
den speziellen Meereskomplex der Pflegeserie MONTEIL HYDRO CELL. Die verschiedenen Inhaltsstoffe versorgen die
Haut mit einem Höchstmaß an Feuchtigkeit und tragen zu ihrer Zellregeneration
bei. Ab sofort ergänzen die HYDRO CELL
Protective Day Creme SPF 15 und die
HYDRO CELL Total Lifting Creme 24h das
maritime Wellness-Programm. Perfekter
Begleiter für unterwegs ist das neue Moisturizing Travel Kit. Praktische Reisegrößen des Pro Active Cleansers, der Age
Defense Eye Creme und der Intensive
Moisture Creme Day/Night sorgen auch
im Urlaub oder auf Geschäftsreise für die
optimale Hautpflege.
NEW PRODUCTS
Cleanser (50 ml), der HYDRO CELL Intensive Moisture Creme Day/Night (20 ml) und
HYDRO CELL Age Defense Eye Creme (5
ml) stellen auch im Urlaub die Feuchtigkeitsbalance der Haut wieder her und sorgen für straffe Haut, ganz ohne Turbulenzen.
Alle Produkte sind dermatologisch getestet, frei von Parabenen und Mineralölen und
ab sofort erhältlich.
Gulfstream Water trifft auf Biofa, einen
Algenextrakt – die Stärke der Hydro-AktivFaktoren wird zum Leben erweckt: Stressresistenz. In Kombination mit Stammzellen
des Seefenchels, die die Haut regenerieren
und den Wasserverlust reduzieren, bietet
der vitalisierende HYDRO CELL Meereskomplex eine belebende Frischekur für die
Haut und schützt sie gleichzeitig vor Hitze
und Trockenheit.
Feuchtigkeitsspender rund um die Uhr
Bonjour glatte Haut: Linien und Mimikfalten reduziert die HYDRO CELL Total Lifting
Creme 24h sichtbar. Die Kombination der
Wirkstoffe Gelalg, Rotalgenextrakt und Sea
Mayweed – Extrakt der Küstenkamille – in
der intensiv wirksamen Anti-Ageing-Creme
belebt die Hautstruktur und verleiht ihr im
Handumdrehen jugendliches Aussehen.
Cremiger Sonnenschirm
Die samtweiche HYDRO CELL Protective
Day Creme SPF 15 ist ein effektiver Bodyguard. Lichtschutzfaktor 15 schützt die Haut
vor UV-Strahlung, die maßgeblich zur
Hautalterung beiträgt. Der hochwertige
HYDRO CELL Meereskomplex regeneriert
die Haut, bewahrt sie vor dem Austrocknen
und verfeinert die Hautstruktur. Die pflegende Tagescreme lässt den Teint sommerlich frisch erstrahlen.
www.monteil.de
MONTEIL COSMETICS
INTERNATIONAL GmbH
Asgard Schönherr, E-Mail:
[email protected]
■
Der neue Dekorative Look
für Herbst/Winter von
Dr.Hauschka Kosmetik
Für den diesjährigen Dekorativen Look
für Herbst/Winter hat Dr.Hauschka Kosmetik die Farben der Natur aufgegriffen. Natural Glamour heißt die neue Limited Edition,
deren Farben Ruhe, Harmonie und Eleganz
ausstrahlen. Die Farben der Eyeshadowpalette reichen von zartem lily white bis hin
zu kräftigem earth brown. Kühles ice blue
ergänzt das steinfarbene lava grey. An den
Augen verwandeln sich die Farben der Eyeshadowpalette zu einem strahlenden Look,
der sehr raffiniert, aber eben auch schön
natürlich aussieht. Ergänzt werden die Farben der Eyeshadowpalette vom ruhigen
Blau und dem sanften Grau des neuen Kajal
Eyeliners Duo blue/grey. Einen Hauch von
Frischekick für die Tasche
Mit dem HYDRO CELL Moisturizing Travel Kit schwebt man entspannt über den
Wolken, denn die transparente Kosmetiktasche bereitet beim Sicherheitscheck am
Airport keine Probleme. Die praktischen
Reisegrößen des HYDRO CELL Pro Active
Brombeere zaubert der Lip Gloss blackberry
auf die Lippen. Damit der Look perfekt
wird, gleicht der Balancing Teint Powder
optisch kleine Unebenheiten aus und sorgt
so für einen ebenmäßigen Teint.
Eyeshadowpalette für strahlend schöne Augenblicke
Die Eyeshadowpalette bringt die natürliche Schönheit der Augen optimal zur Geltung.
Kajal Eyeliner Duo blue/grey für natürliche Eleganz oder
glamourösen Ausdruck
Der Kajal Eyeliner Duo blue/grey weiß
die große Rolle, die unsere Augen spielen,
zu würdigen – und betont die Augenform in
ihrer Einzigartigkeit
Balancing Teint Powder –
für einen ebenmäßigen, schönen Teint
Mit dem kompakten Balancing Teint Powder lassen sich kleine Unebenheiten optisch
ausgleichen, wodurch der Teint gleichmäßig schön wirkt.
Lip Gloss blackberry für einen Hauch von Brombeere
Die Lippen – das gewisse Etwas – bekommen mit dem neuen Lip Gloss blackberry
einen besonderen Glanz.
Natural Glamour lässt Herbst und Winter
ihren eigenen Ton angeben – bleibt dabei
aber immer natürlich. Denn die Dekorative
Kosmetik von Dr.Hauschka hebt nicht nur
die individuelle Ausstrahlung jeder Frau
hervor, sondern pflegt gleichzeitig die Haut
mit wertvollen Heilpflanzenauszügen und
natürlichen Inhaltsstoffen wie Wundklee,
pflanzlichen Wachsen und hochwertigen
ätherischen Ölen.
www.wala.de
www.dr.hauschka.de
Inka Bihler-Schwarz
E-Mail: [email protected]
7/8-2011
33
EURO COSMETICS
■
NEW PRODUCTS
BEAUTY ELEMENTS
von Dr. med Christine Schrammek
Kosmetik
RESVERA CELL CONCENTRATE
Das neue Beauty Element
Unter dem Markenzeichen Beauty Elements werden von Dr. med. Christine
Schrammek Kosmetik von nun an Produkte
zusammengefasst, die unabhängig von
Alter und Hauttyp verwendet werden können. Zu den Beauty Elements gehören
bereits die Mela White Produkte, die für
eine sanfte Minderung von Hyperpigmentierungen sorgen, sowie das Schönheitsfluid Skin Elixier. Neu ist nun die Anti
Aging Kur RESVERA CELL CONCENTRATE, eine hocheffektive Spezialpflege
mit dem „Jugendmolekül“ Resveratrol für
eine jugendlichere Haut.
AKTIVES UND PRÄVENTIVES ANTIAGING hilft den Faktoren der Hautalterung
vorzubeugen und diese zu reparieren
●
RE-YOUTH – durch Resveratrol, dem
Powerstoff aus Rotwein
●
ANTI-OXIDATE – durch Vitamin C und
die Polyphenole aus dem Resveratrol, die
direkt in den Alterungsprozess der Zellen eingreifen
●
RE-STRUCTURE – durch Silanolen
●
RE-ACTIVATE – mit der Inkapflanze
Maka
Resvera Cell Concentrate setzt gleich an
unterschiedlichen Hebeln im „Kampf“
gegen Alterungsprozesse an.
Tropfen für Tropfen für die Schönheit
und Jugendlichkeit der Haut. Das vitalisierende Face Concentrate arbeitet mit den
vier Schlüsseln der Jugendlichkeit
RE-YOUTH
Durch den Powerstoff Resveratrol, der
aus Wein gewonnen wird. Resveratrol hilft
die „Jungbrunnenenzyme“ zu aktivieren.
Diese Sirtuine regulieren diverse Alterungsprozesse und werden während der
Zellteilung in den Fibroblasten abgebaut.
RE-STRUCTURE
Durch die Derivate des Siliziums - Silanole. Hauteigenes Silizium ist Bestandteil
des Bindegewebes. Mit zunehmendem
Alter sinkt der Gehalt an Silizium in der
Haut. Silizium hilft der Haut, die Mechanismen zur Erhaltung der Elastizität, Spannkraft und Festigkeit aufrecht zu halten.
RE-ACTIVATE
Mit Pflanzenkraft aus den Anden. Maca
ist eine Inkapflanze mit Ursprung in den
Anden. Ihre Resistenz gegenüber den dort
herrschenden Extrembedingungen (Stürme,
Frost, intensive Sonne) macht sie zu einer
außergewöhnlichen Pflanze mit außergewöhnlicher Wirkung. Der hohe Nährwert
und das bedeutende Peptidprofi l (Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Glutamic Acid) sind
optimal zur Versorgung der Haut. Für neue
Energie und eine verbesserte Ausstrahlung!
ANTI-OXIDATE
Mit der 3-fach Power von Vitamin C.
Schützt als Antioxidanz vor freien Radikalen, wirkt mit bei der Kollagensynthese
und unterstützt einen ebenmäßigen Teint
bei Pigmentverschiebungen. Die Polyphenole aus Resveratrol haben zusätzlich eine
hohe antioxidative Potenz.
RESVERA CELL CONCENTRATE ist ab
September in ca. 2200 Kosmetikinstituten
in Deutschland erhältlich und auch über
den Onlineshop shop.schrammek.de.
Pressebüro Antje Brüne
[email protected]
■
Erfrischend anders:
MEXX Fresh
Im September kommt
der neue Duft von MEXX!
Was bedeutet es, sich frisch zu fühlen?
Frische verleiht eine optimistische Leichtigkeit, die Lust auf das Leben macht!
Genau das ist MEXX Fresh! Der Duft
belebt nicht nur äußerlich, sondern weckt
7/8-2011
34
EURO COSMETICS
darüber hinaus die Sinne. Er gibt frische
Energie, versprüht Optimismus und Lebensfreude – der perfekte Duft für einen
schwungvollen Start in den Tag.
MEXX Fresh für sie:
Pure Frische hat etwas Aufregendes und
Faszinierendes! Inspiriert von der Natur,
setzt MEXX Fresh Woman auf belebende
Noten. Grüne Mandarine sorgt in der Kopfnote für pure Erfrischung. Seidenblume
zaubert eine sinnliche Herznote. Im Fond
entfalten sich majestätische Wasserlilie
und elegantes Zedernholz. Ein neuer Klassiker für Frauen, die Lust auf Lebensfreude
haben.
MEXX Fresh für ihn:
Was kann erfrischender für einen Männerduft sein als die Kombination aus maskulinen und unerwarteten Noten?
Fruchtig-reife Maracuja überrascht in der
Kopfnote mit exotischer Üppigkeit. Warme
Muskatnuss und grüner Koriander erzeugen ein weiches, mildes Herz. Im Fond
sorgt die Reinheit von Amberholz dafür,
dass der Duft auch lange nach dem Auftragen erfrischend verführerisch bleibt.
Frischer Look
für klassisches Design
MEXX Fresh Woman hat mit einem minimalistischen Flakon die Form eines flachen, runden Kieselsteins. Auch das Elixier
selbst ist inspiriert von der Küste und lockt
in perfektem Meeresgrün. MEXX Fresh
Man überzeugt auf seine Weise: Die silberblaue Essenz leuchtet in einem Flakon, der
mit seinen abgerundeten Ecken die markanten Kurven der Natur interpretiert.
Weitere Informationen:
P&G Prestige
Nina Glaser
[email protected]
oder
headspace pr gmbh & co. kg
Alexander Bohlinger
[email protected]
■
PLASTOHM
PACKAGING AND MACHINES
A Simple, Unique Technology
for Converting Standard Microscopes into
Three Dimensional Image Viewers
By Pam Frost Gorder* and Allen Yi**
The Cosmetic and Personal Care Industry,
as well as many industrial labs which deal
with emulsions and dispersions, are replete
with standard microscopes. These devices
are well known and widely useful for determining the characteristics and quality of a
wide variety of products used in the beauty
industry. These include, but are not limited
to: creams, lotions, various make up applicators pigments etc. Closer looks at such materials may involve far more sophisticated
equipment such as, for example, electron
microscopes . In some cases removal of one
phase from another can and sometimes
produce undesirable artifacts. Formulators
peering down a standard microscope often
wishfor a better view without having to
employ such devices in order to obtain a
better look but without destroying the
actual system being investigated. Paraphrasing the famous physicist,” the closer you
look at something the more you run the risk
of changing it”.
In these days of virtual reality and complex computer calculations, it has now
become possible for formulators, product
developers and scale up engineers to have a
better view of the results of their efforts
that gogo far beyond the standard microscope. Imagine if you had an attachment for
your standard microscope that allowed you
to see your sample in THREE DIMENSIONS!
That day has now arrived and presents an
opportunity not only for some vigilant
entrepreneur and venture capitalist but for
all those formulators who would love to
have a real world look at the products of
their creativity. It has recently been
announced that
●
Engineers at The Ohio State University
(COLUMBUS, Ohio, USA have invented a
lens that enables microscopic objects to
be seen from nine different angles at
once to create a 3D image! While other
3D microscopes use multiple lenses or
cameras that move around an object; the
new lens is the first single, stationary
lens to create microscopic 3D images by
itself.
As a result, the lens can be retrofitted
onto existing microscopes, which could
make this technology a very cost-effective
option for the enhancement of a company’s
research and development efforts. In these
perilous economic times, with cutbacks in
research funding, this technology is
extremely appealing.
Allen Yi, Associate Professor of Integrated
Systems Engineering at Ohio State University (USA), and postdoctoral researcher Lei
Li described the lens in a recent issue of the
Journal of the Optical Society of America .
Professor Yi called the lens a proof of concept for manufacturers of microelectronics
and medical devices, who currently use
very complex machinery to view the tiny
components that they assemble.The lens
* Assistant Director, Research Communications, (614) 292-9485; [email protected]
** Associate Professor of Integrated Systems Engineering, (614) 292-9984; [email protected])
7/8-2011
36
EURO COSMETICS
could also aid cosmetics manufacturers in
the research and development of new products. Being able to view the results of an
experiment in 3D could provide crucial
information when examining the effectiveness of a new composition. The ability to
see a new product in 3D could also significantly enhance a cosmetic manufacturer’s
marketing efforts by providing consumers
with a unique view of the benefits of the
products they are considering.
How it Works
The prototype lens, which is about the
size of a fingernail, looks at first glance like
a gem cut for a ring. It has a flat top surrounded by eight facets. But while gemstones are cut for symmetry, this lens is not
symmetric. The sizes and angles of the facets vary in minute ways that are hard to see
with the naked eye.
“No matter which direction you look at
this lens, you see a different shape,” Yi
explained. Such a lens is called a “freeform
lens,”and is a type of freeform optics.
Freeform optics have been in use for more
than a decade. Lei Li was able to write a
computer program to design a freeform lens
capable of imaging microscopic objects.
Then Yi and Li used a commercially available milling tool with a diamond blade to cut
the shape from a piece of the common
transparent thermoplastic material polyme-
thyl methacrylate, whichis sometimes
called acrylic glass. The machine shaved
bits of plastic from the lens in increments of
10 nanometers, or 10 billionths of a meter –
a distance about 5,000 times smaller than
the diameter of a human hair.
Though the engineers milled their prototype thermoplastic lens on a precision cutting machine, the same lens could be
manufactured less expensively through traditional molding techniques, Yi said. “Ultimately, we hope to help manufacturers
reduce the number and sizes of equipment
they need to miniaturize products,” he added.
The final lens resembles a rhinestone,
with a faceted top and a wide, flat bottom.
They installed the lens on a microscope
with a camera looking down through the
faceted side, and centered tiny objects
beneath the flat side. Each facet captured an
image of the objects from a different angle,
which can be combined on a computer into
a 3D image.
The engineers successfully recorded 3D
images of the tip of a ballpoint pen – which
has a diameter of about 1 millimeter – and a
mini drill bit with a diameter of 0.2 millimeters.
“Using our lens is basically like putting
several microscopes into one microscope,” said Li. “For us, the most attractive
part of this project is we will be able to
see the real shape of micro-samples
instead of just a two-dimensional projection.”
Computer-controlled machines – rather
than humans – do the carving, and Yi says
that the new lens can be placed in front of
equipment that is already in use. It can also
simplify the design of future machine vision
equipment, since multiple lenses or moving
7/8-2011
37
EURO COSMETICS
cameras would no longer be necessary.
Other devices could also use the tiny lens,.
The dynamic pair have since produced a
grid-shaped array of lenses made to fit an
optical sensor. Another dome-shaped lens is
actually made of more than 1,000 tiny
lenses, similar in appearance to an insect’s
eye.
Professor Yi and Ohio State University see
their invention as having considerable commercial potential both for prospective manufacturers licensing the work but also for all
the professionals who would value having a
three dimensional look at their evolving
novel creations. Besides the applications in
the cosmetic and personal care industry.
Professor Yipointed to the medical testing
industry, which is working to shrink devices
that analyze fluid samples. Cutting tiny reservoirs and channels in plastic requires a
clear view, and the depths must be carved
with precision.
■
Unipac Tubenfülllinie von
Romaco bei Colomer Italy
Mit einer neuen Raumstrategie vergrößert Colomer Italy seine Produktionskapazitäten. Der italienische Kosmetikhersteller,
ein Unternehmen der spanischen Colomer
Group, hat sich auf die Produktion und Verarbeitung von Haarfärbemitteln spezialisiert. Im Zuge der Umbaumaßnahmen am
Standort in Bologna wurde die Tubenfülllinie Unipac U 20100 von Romaco unterhalb
der Prozessanlagen installiert. Auf diese
Weise können die Färbemittel fortan direkt
aus den Mischbehältern in die Dosiereinheit
der Tubenfüllmaschine geleitet werden.
Dies bietet sich insbesondere für die Abfüllung von schersensitiven Produkten an, die
eine äußerst schonende Verarbeitung verlangen. Alternativ kann die Produktlösung
in speziellen Tanks zwischengelagert und
von dort dem Einlauftrichter des Tubenfüllers zugeführt werden.
Die Unipac Tubenfüllmaschine U 20100 in
Linie mit dem Promatic Kartonierer PC 4200
ist bereits seit 2005 bei Colomer Italy in
Betrieb. Derzeit wird die Anlage in erster
Linie zur Abfüllung der hochwertigen Haarfärbemittelserien „Revlonissimo“ und „Voilà“
von Colomer eingesetzt. Die verstärkte Positionierung von Colomer Italy im Lohnverpackungssektor hat zur Folge, dass sich die
Produktpalette des Herstellers insgesamt
erweitert. Zunehmend sind daher Technologien gefragt, die äußerst flexibel in der
Anwendung sind und sich in kürzester Zeit
an neue Produktionsbedingungen anpassen
lassen.
Durch eine spezielle Schnellspanneinrichtung wurde der Unipac Tubenfüller an
zwei Prozessbehälter angeschlossen. Nach
Abschluss der einen Charge kann unmittelbar zur nächsten übergegangen werden.
Hierfür müssen lediglich die Zuführungen
und die produktberührenden Teile gewechselt werden. Zu diesem Zweck steht ein
zweites, bereits gereinigtes Formatset der
Tubenfüllmaschine zur Verfügung. In weniger als zehn Minuten lassen sich die Pumpe
des Tubenfüllers, die flexible Rohrleitung,
das Dosierventil sowie die Schläuche austauschen.
Anschließend erfolgen die Einrichtung der
Prozessparameter sowie die Programmierung der Lasergravur mit Chargen- und Farbnummer. Insgesamt dauert der Rüstvorgang
der kompletten Tubenfülllinie nicht einmal
40 Minuten. Je nach Abfüllmenge erzielt die
Tubenfüllmaschine vom Typ U 20100 zwischen 60 und 100 Tuben in der Minute.
Romaco Kontakt
Bernd Webel
[email protected]
■
Eine waschechte
Ritterburg aus Karton
STI Group realisiert Verpackungsserie
für Kinder-Naturkosmetik mit Zweitnutzen
Damit das tägliche Waschen nicht nur
Pflichtprogramm ist, sondern auch darüber
hinaus Spaß macht, hat die STI Group
gemeinsam mit dem Hersteller die passende
Verpackungsserie entwickelt, die sich im
Nu in eine waschechte Ritterburg verwandeln lässt.
STI Group
stellt Faltschachtelkompetenz unter Beweis
Die Verpackung für Kinderkosmetik
besteht aus Hülle und konturgestanztem
Schuber. Mit der gewählten Zinnenoptik
lassen sich die einzelnen Faltschachteln zu
einer ganzen Burganlage zusammenstellen.
Zum sicheren Transport der Produkte
wurde von den Verpackungsspezialisten
der STI Group die Form einer Schatztruhe
gewählt, die außerdem zur Aufbewahrung
besonderer Schätze im Kinderzimmer
dient.
Passend zu der hochwertigen Naturkosmetikmarke mit natürlichen Inhaltsstoffen
aus kontrolliert biologischem Anbau ist die
Verpackungsserie aus FSC-zertifiziertem,
recyclingfähigem Material hergestellt und
gewährleistet damit Nachhaltigkeit in der
Bewirtschaftung der Wälder und der Zellstoffproduktion.
Pflege macht natürlich Spaß
Ob feuchte Komfort Tücher, Schaumseife
für kleine und große Dreckspatzen, Cremedusche, Knister Badesalz für Wannentaucher oder Haarshampoo für Ritter und
Rapunzel - mit jedem neu erworbenen Produkt wächst die Ritterburg.
Design lässt Kinderaugen leuchten
Als Key-Visual und Testimonial ist „Kater
Karo“ Animateur für kleine „Waschkatzen“.
Das Verpackungsdesign der Serie ist optimal aufeinander abgestimmt, damit die Ritterburg anschließend in voller Farbpracht
im Kinderzimmer leuchtet.
www.sti-group.com
[email protected]
■
Basierend auf den hohen Qualitätsansprüchen des Herstellers wurde für die Faltschachtel-Range ausschließlich
FSC-zertifiziertes Material
gewählt.
7/8-2011
38
EURO COSMETICS
events
Cosmetics Leaders Asia
08.-09.09.2011
Shanghai/China
www.cla2010.com
Beyond Beauty
12.-14.09.2011
Paris/France
www.beyondbeautyparis.com
Naturkosmetik Branchenkongress
20..-21.09.2011
Berlin/Germany
www.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de
Technopharm
11.-13.10.2011
Nürnberg/Germany
www.technopharm.de
SEPAWA-Kongress
12.-14.10.2011
Fulda/Germany
www.sepawa.de
LUXEPACK
19.-21.10.2011
Monaco
www.luxepack.com
SCC California
25..-26.10.2011
Long Beach/Californien/USA
www.caliscc.org
IFSCC Kongress
31.10.-02.11.2011
Bangkok/Thailand
www.ifscc2011.com
In-Cosmetics Asia
02.-04.11.2011
Bangkok/Thailand
www.in-cosmeticsasia.com
Asia-Pacific Sustainable Cosmetics Summit
07.- 08.11.2011
Hong Kong/China
www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com/Asia
SCS Formulate 2011
15.-16.11.2011
Conventry/United Kingdom
www.scs.org.uk
HPCI Congress
21.-22.11.2011
Warschau/Polen
www.hpci-congress.com
Europe Sustainable Cosmetics Summit
28.-30.11.2011
Paris/France
www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com/Europe/
29.11.-01.12.2011
Paris/France
www.fieurope.ingredientsnetwork.com/
Ni Natural Ingredients
Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) 2011
08.-09.12.2011
New York/USA
www.scconline.org
Vivaness 2012
15.-18.02.2012
Nürnberg/Germany
www.vivaness.de
PCHI
27.-29.02.2012
Shanghai/China
www.pchi-china.com
Cosmopack/Cosmoprof
09.-12.03.2012
Bologna/Italy
www.cosmoprof.com
7/8-2011
39
EURO COSMETICS
COM
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Aluminium Seals
Entry in our
Suppliers’ Compass
Chemical Suppliers
For a period of:
one year
Price per mm height:
EUR 2,30
Width of column:
42 mm
Category/ies:
free choice
Contract Filler
Advertising Hotline:
Claudia Oderwald
[email protected]
Tel.: +49 (89) 36037427
Fax: +49 (89) 32667553
Aluminium Seals
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Auditing/Consulting
innovativ
kompetent
zuverlässig
MTC Dr. Barth
Managementsystems & Auditing
Trainings Consulting
Aroma Chemicals
x
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Entwicklung, Bulkherstellung, Konfektionierung
Aerosole, Kosmetik, Pharmazeutik/OTC,
Medizin- und Haushaltsprodukte
GMP-, QM-, EM-, IFS-HPC Auditor, OHS inspect.
Audits of suppliers, manufacturers, contractors
Cosmetics, bulks, APIs, ingredients, packaging
Cosmetic GMP, GMP / ICH, IFS-HPC, QM, SHE
MTC – Dr. Barth
Bergweg 5a
06905 Bad Schmiedeberg
Germany
Trichema AG
Lättichstrasse 4
Postfach 1063
CH-6341 Baar
+49(0)34925-72275
+49(0)34925-72281
[email protected]
www.mtc-barth.de
Beeswax
Tel 0041 (0)41 768 0202
Fax 0041 (0)41 768 0200
[email protected]
www.trichema.ch
Ceresin/Ozokerite
Essential Oils
LQFRVPHWLFV
0DLODQG
6WDQG4
1DWXULQQHXHQ
'LPHQVLRQHQ
3HHOLQJN|USHUÃ$QWL
R[LGDQWLHQÃ7UlJHUVWRIIH
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Oleoresins
Aroma Chemicals
Grünstraße 105
[email protected]
Tel.: +49 2132 93 58 0
Contract Services
D-40667 Meerbusch
www.eramex.de
Fax: +49 2132 93 58 58
7/8-2011
40
EURO COSMETICS
COM
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Contract Services
Ecological glass
+BISF
Filling Machines
Lanolin
SGD S.A. Le Linéa - 1, rue du Général Leclerc
F 92047 Paris La Defense Cedex
1. ecological
Tel.+33(0)1 40 90 36 00 · www.sgdgroup.com cosmetic
glass
Essential Oils
Kompetenz in Naturwachs
Wollwachs pharm. & techn. • Wollwach-
8JSTJOEEFS
salkohol (auch BHT frei) • Cholesterol
LPNQFUFOUF1BSUOFS
Lanolin Öl • Lanolinfettsäure • PhytoEster • pflanzl. Konsistenzgeber • Pflan-
GàS*ISF"VGUSBHTIFSTUFMMVOH
zenextrakte • Montanglycolwachs DAB
Naturwachse • Omega-3-Kapseln
Essential Oils
w w w.wagnerlanolin.de
Oleoresins
Microcrystalline Wax
Aroma Chemicals
6OTFSF
,FSOLPNQFUFO[
Grünstraße 105
[email protected]
Tel.: +49 2132 93 58 0
D-40667 Meerbusch
www.eramex.de
Fax: +49 2132 93 58 58
%JFLPNQMFUUF1SPEVLUJPOWPO
QIBSNB[FVUJTDIFO1SPEVLUFO
.FEJ[JOQSPEVLUFO
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'PO]'BY
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Glitter Effects
Rolf Schneider
Handelsgesellschaft mbH
Louisenstraße 141,
D-61348 Bad Homburg
Telefon: 06172 49630
Fax: 06172 496340
e-mail:
[email protected]
www.rolf-schneider-handelsgesellschaft.de
Natural Waxes
Filler
Schellack
Cosmetic Product
Development
ein nachwachsender Rohstoff
Pharma Food Kosmetik Technik
Sie suchen professionelle
Kosmetikproduktentwicklung,
kreativ, nach aktuellstem Wissen.
www.cpd-development.ch
Laboratories Services
ATEX zertifiziert
For all Cosmetics Microbiology Tests,
Preservative / Challenge Tests please visit
www.panspermiamicrobiology.com
e-mail: [email protected]
Dermatological
and Clinical Tests
Lanolin
- Herstellungserlaubnis
gemäß § 13 AMG
- zertifiziert nach
DIN EN ISO 9001
und ISO 13485
CRODA
NATURALLY THE PUREST LANOLINS
Skin Investigation
and Technology
Croda GmbH
Herrenpfad-Süd 33
D-41334 Nettetal
Germany
Tel. (49) 2157 8173-0
Fax (49) 2157 132350
www.croda.co.uk
Hamburg GmbH
Dammtorwall 4, 20354 Hamburg, Germany
Tel.: + 49 (0)40 35 53 81-0,
Fax: + 49 (0)40 35 53 81-11
E-Mail: [email protected], www.sit-skin.de
7/8-2011
41
EURO COSMETICS
Stroever GmbH & Co. KG
Tel 0421 38613-0
www.stroever.de
Packaging Sevrvice
COM
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Perfume Oils
FREY + LAU GmbH
Postfach 12 53,
24548 Henstedt-Ulzburg
Telefon (04193) 99 53
Telefax (04193) 99 55 80
e-mail: [email protected]
www. freylau.de
Woll Wax
Services
CRODA
NATURALLY THE PUREST LANOLINS
Croda GmbH
Herrenpfad-Süd 33
D-41334 Nettetal
Germany
Tel. (49) 2157 8173-0
Fax (49) 2157 132350
www.croda.co.uk
Stay up to date every month!
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or via Fax: +49 (0) 89 - 32 66 75 53
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Contact:
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Tel.: +49 (0) 89 - 36 03 74 27
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For more information: www.eurocosmetics.de
7/8-2011
ISSN 0944-8942
19. Jahrgang 2011 • Volume No. 19
DAS INTERNATIONALE
FACHMAGAZIN FÜR DIE KOSMETIKAUND RIECHSTOFF-INDUSTRIE
Organ:
GD – Gesellschaft für Dermopharmazie (e.V.)
Publisher:
Rechtsanwalt Michael Melcher
[email protected]
Editorial Board:
LM.-Chem. Peter Bernhardt,
Dr. Rudolf Bimczok,
Prof. Dr. Gerhard Buchbauer,
Dr. Franz Frosch,
Prof. Dr. Müller-Goymann,
Dr. Karl-Heinz Schrader,
Dr. Kuno Schweikert,
Prof. Dr. Gerhard Sontag,
Dr. Klaus Stanzl,
Prof. Dr. Helmut Viernstein
D A S I N T E R N AT I O N A L E FA C H M A G A Z I N F Ü R D I E
KOSMETIKA - UND RIECHSTOFF -INDUSTRIE
Page/Seite
Page/Seite
A+S Bio Tec,
D – 66333 Völklingen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
MTC – Dr. Barth,
D – 06905 Bad Schmiedeberg . . . . . . . . . .40
AMA Laboratories, Inc.,
USA – New City, NY 10956 . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Pamasol AG,
CH – 8808 Pfäffikon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Ascot International Ltd,
GB – Cheshire SK1 3 DF . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Panspermia Microbiology,
UK – Essex CMO 8 SH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Ballerstaedt & Co. OHG,
D – 76401 Rastatt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Pfeiffer Consulting GmbH,
D – 75180 Pforzheim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Cosmetic Product Development,
CH – 8162 Steinmaur ZH . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Rolf Schneider,
D – 61292 Bad Homburg . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Créations Couleurs,
F – 28109 Dreux Cedex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
SGD S.A.,
F – 92047 Paris La Defense Cedex . . . . . . .41
Croda GmbH,
D – 41334 Nettetal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41, 42
Sigmund Lindner GmbH,
D – 95485 Warmensteinach . . . . . . . . .40, 41
Dermatest GmbH,
D – 48155 Münster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Systemkosmetik,
D – 86692 Münster am Lech . . . . . . . . . . .42
Derschlag - GmbH & Co. KG,
D – 57319 Bad Berleburg . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Skin Investigation and Technology,
D – 20354 Hamburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Dreiturm GmbH,
D – 36396 Steinau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
SSB Stroever GmbH,
D – 28217 Bremen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Eckart GmbH,
D – 91235 Hartenstein
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Trichema AG,
CH – 6340 Baar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Eramex,
D – 40667 Meerbusch . . . . . . . . . . . . .40, 41
Th. C. Tromm GmbH,
D – 50694 Köln . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40, 41
Etol GmbH,
D – 77704 Oberkirch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH,
D – 28701 Bremen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Editor United States/Canada:
Meyer R. Rosen
President and Founder of Interactive Consulting, Inc.
E-mail: [email protected]
Editor South East Asia/China:
Albert K.P. Leung
Executive, Hong Kong Cosmetic Technical
Resources Centre
Editor of Column on Austria:
Univ.-Prof. Mag. pharm. Dr. Gerhard Buchbauer
Althanstr. 14, A-1090 Wien
Phone: +43-1-4277 55550
Fax: +43-1-4277 9555
EU-Correspondent:
Pierre V. Costa, Brussels
Marketing:
Claudia Oderwald
Phone: +49 (0) 89 - 36 03 74 27
Fax: +49 (0) 89 - 32 66 75 53
Senior Editor/Promotion:
Dipl.-Kfm. Wolfgang Metz
Phone: +49 (0) 89 - 36 03 74 26
Fax: +49 (0) 89 - 32 66 75 53
Flavex GmbH,
D – 66775 Rehlingen . . . . . . . . . . . . .Cover 1
Production:
Frey + Lau GmbH,
D – 24548 Henstedt-Ulzburg . . . . . . . . . .42
Dietmar Pichler
Publishing Company:
INTER-EURO MEDIEN GmbH
P. O. Box 440255
D-80751 München
Phone: +49 (0) 89 - 36 03 74 27
Fax: +49 (0) 89 - 32 66 75 53
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.eurocosmetics-magazine.com
Managing Director:
Rechtsanwalt Michael Melcher
Publication Mode:
R. Gerschon GmbH,
D – 61452 Königstein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Graichen GmbH,
D – 64625 Bensheim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
IMPAG Import GmbH,
D – 63071 Offenbach a. Main . . . . . . . . . .15
Ten issues per year, two special issues.
Subscription charge: Germany EURO 165,- per annum (incl. forwarding charges); Europe EURO 185,- per annum (incl. forwarding charges);
Overseas EURO 290,- per annum (incl. forwarding charges). One issue:
EURO 15,- (excl. forwarding charges).
A new subscription can be cancelled in writing to the INTER-EURO
MEDIEN GmbH, P. O. Box 440255, D-80751 München within 7 days
following the subscription (date as postmark). If the subscription is
not cancelled in writing two months by the end of the year, it is renewed for one year according to the current regulations.
No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited manuscripts, pictures and
graphics. The responsibility for articles signed by name falls on the
author. Despite careful checking, the editorial staff and the publishers accept no responsibility for the exactness of the articles.
© INTER-EURO MEDIEN GmbH
MUNICH/GERMANY
Jan Dekker GmbH,
NL – 1520 AA Wormerveer . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Mani GmbH,
D – 40597 Düsseldorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
e packaging
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a
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o
f
show
T h e p re m i e r
- Photo : D. Combet
C R E AT E A U N I Q U E L I N K
M O N A C O
I
S H A N G H A I
Grimaldi Forum / Monaco
Under the Patronage of his Serene Highness
the Sovereign Prince of Monaco
www.luxepack.com
Creation :
19 . 20 . 21
OCTOBER
2011
Information / Idice T. +33 (0)4 74 73 42 33
[email protected]
I
N E W
Y O R K

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