Kiev, Ukraine

The Ukraine was known as ‘the
breadbasket of the Soviet Union’ given
the fact that they have so many ways of
preparing doughy delights. And they’re
so proud of their country’s ability to
produce things from the fertile earth
that their flag – a blue strip over a
yellow strip – indicates the blue sky,
mountains and streams over the fields
of wheat. Expect borscht (soup), decent
stews, dumplings and desserts topped
with honey or fruit.
As for the wet stuff, it’ll come as no
surprise that vodka is on the menu
as is Ukrainian beer (pivo). Watch out
though, as the alcohol content in the
beer is higher than that in the UK.
Obolon, Slavutich, Chernigivsky, and
L’vivskiy are just some of the major
brewers.
pubs
O’Brien’s Irish Pub
(17-a Mykhailivska vul)
Think Irish pub, think pub food,
Guinness, standing room only, big
screens for the footie, Irish craic and
lots of foreigners congregated to partee. Open seven days with live music
Tues-Sat with a space for boogie-ing up
the stairs. Brekkie from 8am is just the
job for a delicate tummy.
Golden Gate Irish Pub
(40/2 Volodymyrs’ka vul)
Situated beside the remains of the
Golden Gate, which served as a barrier
from invaders since 1037. See if it can
hold off thirsty Scots!
KIEV
restaurants
O’Panas (Formerly Taras)
(Shevchenko Park)
Central, affordable and a good place
to soak in the Ukrainian culture. With
waiting staff in Ukrainian dress, rabbit
in sour cream sauce, traditional wines,
vodka and Ukrainian folk music, why
would you want to be anywhere else?
One of the few places with disabled
access.
Mimino
(10A Spaska Street)
Get warmed up for the Tbilisi trip by
visiting this Georgian restaurant.
kick-off TBC
Olympic Stadium,
Kiev
Maximum
(Dekabrystiv 12/37)
A one stop entertainment shop offering
bars, a casino, a bowling alley, disco and
other adult entertainment. The name
seems to reflect the amount of activity
going on – maximum.
Indigo
(Esplanadna 34/2)
Beer on tap, sport on screen and live
music Wed-Fri. Open til 11pm.
The Wall
(Bessarabska Square)
Wee and a bit overcrowded (and that’s
before the kilties arrive) this traditional
ex-pat pub offers good scran, snacks
and beer. Good atmosphere.
Open til 2am.
Clubs
You’ll find good pubs and clubs all
over the city, but on and around the
Khreschatyk is a good area to seek
somewhere to dance the night away.
Expect to pay an entrance fee.
Arena Sports Bar
(Basseina, 2A)
Get yourself a nice spot on the terrace
in front of the huge TV screen, dip
your tootsies in the fountain and sup
on a beer produced by the pub’s own
brewery. Or grab a bite to eat in the
huge restaurant. The sports bar is open
between 12noon and 4am.You’ll need
to dress up if you want into the club.
Shooters
(Moskovskaya, 22)
There’s some Scottish influence at
work here. Expect an overload of
tartan (it’s the uniform), a place chocfull of people who want to have a good
time, no pretensions (or inhibitions!).
See www.shooters.kiev.ua for
more details. M: Arsenalaya.
Planeta Sport
(Bohdana Khmel’hyts’koho 3)
If your pal is telling his ‘lost in Lithuania’
story for the umpteenth time then
this is the place you want to be.You
can glance over his shoulder at the
non-stop sports action on the telly,
try and decipher the signatures on the
sports memorabilia or stare out of the
big windows and people watch. Good
choice of cocktails. Open til midnight.
Vatra Nightclub
(5 Metallistov St)
Choose from two dancefloors. Upstairs
you can strut your stuff to pop music.
And if you can’t find someone to
dance with there’s a big mirror along
one wall, so you can boogie with your
own reflection. Downstairs there’s
provision for the serious clubber who
likes those techno tunes. The cocktail
marathons take place on Tuesday nights
with discounts on alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages. Open til 5am.
Orekh (Nuts)
(vul Chervonoarmis’ka)
IMPORTANT do not go here if you
have a nut allergy. Easily mistaken for a
regular house, you go downstairs into
a place that is literally nuts… peanuts.
Served free at every table the nut shells
are seemingly deliberately discarded on
the floor for effect. The food is decent.
M: Palats Ukraina near to Vul Tverska.
wed 11 oct 06
Ukraine V
Scotland
USSR
(Sichnevoho Povstannia 42/1)
History with a twist as you eat. The
Soviet Union’s best or worst moments
and achievements adorn the walls while
classic films roll on the TV screens. Get
a taste from all 15 former Soviet Union
states.
Garage
(Shota Rustaveli 12)
Cars are the theme here and you might
crash and burn by choosing an old
banger from the menu which is not
translated into English. A big projection
screen showing sports and live music is
also on hand for entertainment. Loads
of appetisers, snacks and beer on offer
in pleasant surroundings.
Open 11am-12midnight.
Caribbean Club
(Kominterna 4)
A cosy atmosphere in this Latin
American club where you can salsa the
evening away. Skilled dancers show you
how it’s done.
See www.caribbean.com.ua
for more information.
Park Club
(12 Rusanovska Nab)
Enough of a mixture of toons to keep
everyone happy, even Russian pop
enthusiasts. Disco kicks off around
10pm with live shows from 1am.
Shelter
(15 Khreschatyk)
This venue has a wee bit of everything
(restaurant, pub and so on) including a
disco and a blues club.
stadium guide
The Olympic Stadium (also known as the Olimpiys’kyi or
Respublikans’kyi Stadium) currently has a 60,000 capacity. It’s centrally
situated on Cherepanov Hill in the city so jumping on the metro,
bus, trolleybus or taxi will get you there easily and cheaply (use the
translations in the Winning Words section to make sure you’re on
the right track). The nearest metro station is Respublikans’kyi Stadion.
However please note that metro stations near to the stadium may
close (to prevent overcrowding).
At the time of going to print we had not been advised where in the
stadium the Scotland fans will be located.
Both ticket cordons and search cordons will be in operation at the
stadium. All supporters will need to pass through these cordons
and therefore it is essential that fans arrive early at the stadium to
reduce entry time. It would be helpful not to carry large rucksacks
to the game and please be aware that the Ukrainian police in their
practised control and entry procedures will not show flexibility as we
know it within our grounds in Scotland. This may create delays at the
search areas.
Please note that flag poles, bottles and flares will be confiscated
and ACCESS UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DRINK,
DRUGS OR CARRYING THE SAME WILL BE
REFUSED.
It is anticipated that Scotland supporters will be held back at the
conclusion of the match.
Arrangements have been made to have a help desk at the nearby
Sport Hotel.
KIEV
for ongoing supporter information
www.scottishfa.co.uk
restaurants,
pubs and clubs
Currency Convertor
£1
= 9.53 hryvnia
€1
= 6.42 hryvnia
Please note currency
conversion rates approximate
as at 31/07/06
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
TOP TIPS
ESSENTIAL CHECKLIST
WINNING WORDS
It’s a bit of a surprise that there’s actually anything left to see in Kiev as the city
has been invaded, destroyed and occupied more times than Scotland’s been drawn
against the world’s best teams. That said, there’s still plenty of great sights to take in
on the days where football, banter and beer isn’t the priority.
Check out www.kiev.info for more options.
Smoking
Telephone
documentation
NUMBERS
Apparently there’s a new law which outlaws smoking in
most public places, but don’t be surprised if you’re fighting
your way through a cigarette fog on a daily basis.
Please note that the translated street names can find themselves appearing on maps
and signs with slight variations on the spelling.
Drink
To telephone the Ukraine from the UK use the dial code:
00 380, a two digit city number (the Kiev dial code is 44)
then a seven digit number. For calls within the city you
will require phonecards (you can buy them from the post
office) to use on public telephones. Long distance phone
services operated by Utel (Ukrainian Telecommunications)
cost between 30p and 80p per minute.
Check you have a valid passport and insurance before setting off. As an EU
national you will not require a visa for a short trip (less than 90 days). We
know it’s crowded enough in that sporran but, generally, save all bits of paper
issued to you (through customs or whatever) as you may need to present
them at some point. It is advisable to carry a photocopy of your passport with
you at all times.
1 = odin (O’DEEN)
2 = dva (VA)
3 = tri (TREE)
4 = chotiri (CHO-’TEA-RE)
5 = piyat (PLAT)
6 = shist (SHEET)
7 = sim (SEEM)
8 = visim (V-SEEM)
9 = devyat (THE-VIET)
10 = desyat (THE SET)
20 = dvadsyat (VA SET)
30 = tridsyat (TREE SET)
40 = sorok (SOROK)
50 = piyatdesyat (PIAT-THE SEE AT)
100 = sto (STO)
500 = piyatsot (PIAT-THOUGHT)
1000 = tysyacha (TEE SEE AT CHA)
M: indicates nearest Metro stop.
Caves Monastery - Kiev Pecherska Lavra
(25 vul Sichnevoho Povstannia St)
If you like religious architecture, then this is the place to visit in Kiev. Built almost
nine centuries ago the group of churches in the Dnipro Hills boasts catacombs,
relics and even the mummified bodies of monks.
M: Arsenalna, then catch the trolley bus.
Alcohol is cheap and readily available, however, you’ll be
expected to drink responsibly and if you’ve hired a car be
warned that drink driving carries very severe penalties.
To avoid being ripped off with watered down or, indeed,
dangerous booze, always buy drink from shops rather than
kiosks.
Time
The Ukraine is two hours ahead of the UK. For exact time
information, dial 060.
Money
Water
To save your best runs for the Friday night fives game stick
with bottled water. Boil water from the tap if bottled H²O
is unavailable.
Quite simply this winding street (which translates as ‘Andrew’s descent’) is the
most endearing the city has to offer. It’s full of character, shops, stalls, bars, cafes,
restaurants and leads from the Old Town to the port and merchant’s area. Enough
to keep everyone happy.
M: Kontraktova Ploshcha then walk in a southerly direction.
The currency used in the Ukraine is the Hryvnia (also
spelt Hryvna or Grivna). The exchange rate is roughly
£1 for 10 Hryvnia. Be aware that scruffy money (ripped,
torn or written-on notes) may be refused. Notes come
in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200. Each
Hryvnia is divided into 100 kopeks and these come in
coins with values of 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, and 50. Although major
credit cards are accepted don’t rely on your plastic as cash
is preferred. Change money at reputable offices and not
with individuals on the street. Note that banks are open
Mon-Fri from 9am-1pm.
Funicular railway
Shops
Chernobyl Museum
(1 Khoryvyj Pereulok St)
The world’s worst nuclear accident took place just 100km north of the capital and
the whole terrifying story is told at this exhibition just to the north west of the city.
Open 10am-6pm Mon-Sat. Located between Khoryva St and Spaska St.
M: Kontraktova Ploshcha (blue line).
Andriyivsky vzviz
(Podil)
If you don’t want to induce an early heart attack walking up the slope on
Andriyivsky vzviz then jump on the railway which puts the ‘fun’ in funicular. For
50 kopeks you can enjoy the view over the city and the Dnipro River. There’s
also a bunch of nice churches atop the hill. Open 6.30am-11pm. M: Poshtova
Ploshcha.
House of the Chimeras: The Horodetsky Building
(10 Bankovaya Vul)
It may sound like something out of the Island of Dr Moreau, but it’s actually the
brainchild of famous Ukrainian architect Horodetsky, who completed this unique
dwelling house in 1902. Walls and ceilings adorned with fantastically complex
decorations and scenes depicting folklore and hunting might have you walking out
with a crick in your neck.
M: Khreshchatyk.
Independence Square
(Maydan Nezalezhnosti)
The focal point of Kiev is undoubtedly Independence Square, famous for hunger
striking students whose protests in 1989 led to independence from the Soviet
Union. The square was also the centre of protest for the more recent Orange
Revolution which was widely seen as a victory for greater democracy. At weekends
traffic is prevented from entering nearby Khreschatyk Street allowing locals and
tourists to meet and mingle.
Toilets
Taxis
Tipping
There is a charge of around 50 kopeks to spend a penny in
public toilets.
Climate
Average temperatures will be between 8°C and 12°C in
October.
Disabled travellers
Kiev is not the kindest to the disabled traveller. Expect
problems accessing public transport, though the central
train station does have lifts to platforms.
Electricity
Lobanovsky Dynamo Stadium
Left luggage
Sophia Cathedral
(Sofiyivska Square)
With its golden-topped cupolas, many mosaics and abundance of frescoes this 11th
century church – the oldest in the city – is worth a look. There’s an 11 Hryvnia
charge for the cathedral, which is open 10am-5.30pm Fri-Tues, 10am-4.30pm Wed,
while the grounds are open 8.30am-8pm. M: Maydan Nezalezhnosti.
Khreschatyk
Loads of the original buildings in Kiev were razed to the ground in World War II
– this central street was rebuilt in the Soviet style which makes it pretty grand if
slightly intimidating. Worth a stroll.
Transport
Some restaurants will automatically add a 10% service
charge on the bill so check. If there isn’t a service charge
10% is the going rate.
Most shops are open six days (Mon- Sat), closing for lunch.
(Bessarabska Square - at the top of boulevard Tarasa Shevchenka)
This is the only statue of the Communist leader left in Kiev, probably because it is
quite an impressive piece of work. Named best monument at an international art
exhibition in New York in 1939, you’ll see why the Ukrainians felt they just had to
keep it after independence. M: Khreshchatyk.
(vul Grushevskogo 3)
Home of Dynamo Kiev this stadium has a capacity of just under 17,000. Although
they don’t do tours you could pop along to see a monument to the late and
legendary coach Valery Lobanovsky which stands at the entrance.
M: Maydan Nezalezhnosti.
A noise curfew is in operation in the city centre after 2200
hrs.
Many international flights come into Boryspil International
Airport, about 30km from the city centre. Although shuttle
buses are available it’s quickest to take a taxi into Kiev
(write your destination in Russian or Ukrainian to show
the driver). Domestic flights are likely to arrive at ZhulianyKyiv, which is closer to the centre. With all travel in the
Ukraine it is important to keep a hold of all documents
you receive or fill out in-country. For information on
Boryspil call (00 380 44) 281 7243 or look up
www.airport-borispol.com.ua
Stock up with at least two different adaptors for your
electrical equipment. Sockets are 220 volts AC, 50Hz and
need two round pins. There’s the Russian socket or the
usual European socket – bring adaptors for both as they’re
hard to buy in the city. Or just leave your hair straighteners
at home …
Lenin Monument
Noise Curfew
Call 058 to order a taxi or hail one of the many private
cars or cabs from the street. Locals sometimes use their
cars as taxis and are generally cheaper but make sure
there’s no one else in the car and always be cautious as the
drive may be a bit of a white knuckle ride. Always agree
prices beforehand. Some taxi numbers are: Avtosvit (00
380 44) 234 4444; Ukrprominvest (00 380 44) 574 0574.
Metro
The Metro in Kiev is safe and inexpensive on top of being
very convenient. All three lines meet at Independence
Square and the service runs from 6am-12midnight. Buy
tokens (50 kopeks) at the metro station.You’ll pay this fare
each time you pass through a turnstile.
Trolleys and Buses
Facilities are available at the bus and railway station. The
lockers at the railway station are pretty safe and will cost
about 50p for two days.
Prepare to do a sardine impression. Despite being
crammed they’re a cheap way to travel around. Tickets (50
kopeks) can be bought from the conductor or at the bus
stop or news kiosk. Always punch your ticket as there’s a
10 Hryvnia fine for not doing so. The main bus station is at
Moskovskaya Square.
See www.autolux.ua for timetable info.
Floors
Trains
As if it isn’t confusing enough trying to remember what
floor your room’s on, the Ukrainians like to call the ground
floor the first floor and so on.
Kiev is served by one central train station at Privokzal’naya
Square. Prices are higher for foreigners. For timetable
information call (00 380 44) 223 1111. The railway station
information service number is 005. The ticket office for
rail travel is located at 38/40 Tarasa Shevchenka Blvd – you
will need to know all details of your travel before buying
a ticket. Tel: 050. The number for ticket reservation and
delivery is 050 or 085.
Post Off ices
The main Post Office is on 22 Khreschatyk Street. As
well as buying stamps and postcards you can also make
international phone calls.
Border checks
Prepare to be delayed at borders as detailed inspection of documents and
belongings will take place. On buses you may be held up for about an hour.
Trains (Westbound) take a lot longer as the wheels on the Baltic carriages
don’t fit European tracks.
British Embassy
The British Embassy is sited at 9 Desyatinna St, tel: (00 380 44) 490 3660.
The Consular/Visa Section can be found at Artyom Business Centre, 4
Glybochytska St 04050. Tel: (00 380 44) 494 3400. They can issue replacement
passports and can provide help if you have been the victim of a serious crime.
The Embassy is open Mon-Thurs, 9am-5.30pm (closed between 1pm and 2pm)
and Fri, 9am to 4pm. If you need consular assistance don’t bother standing
in the visa queue – make yourself known to the visa marshal or guard at the
entrance to the visa section. The out-of-hours numbers fans should call in an
absolute emergency – arrest, serious injury, loss of passport etc – is (00 380
44) 231 5297 (landline) or (00 380 50) 331 5297 (mobile).
Safety and security
It goes without saying that the law here should be respected and that fans
should use common sense. Don’t take pictures near government or military
establishments, do note that pickpockets will operate in crowded areas, tourist
hotspots and public transport. Also be aware of a scam where criminals drop
a wallet or money in front of you, proceed to ‘find’ the money and ask if it’s
yours. They may even offer to share this money with you – walk away without
getting into any conversations.
If you’re enjoying a few beers make sure you keep an eye on your drinks as
these can be spiked with drugs. If you must take valuables with you on the trip
keep them safe. Keep copies of your passport and other important documents,
like travel insurance, on you. If anything is stolen report it to the police
immediately and obtain a statement for your insurance.
emergency telephone numbers
Fire 01, Police 02, Ambulance 03.
hospitals and clinics
If you need to get someone to accident and emergency then the National
Emergency and Trauma Hospital, 3, Bratislavskaya St is Kiev’s state hospital.
Note that state facilities here are generally poor. Tel (24 hours): (00 380 44)
518 5111. Emergency treatment is free of charge and you will be taken to the
state hospital unless you can prove you have comprehensive medical insurance
cover. If you do, then opt for any of the private clinics listed below:
Medicom Private Clinic, 8 Kondratyuka St, tel: (00 380 44) 234 0303. Borys,
55a Chervonoarmiyska St, tel: (00 380 44) 238 0000. www.boris.kiev.ua. The
following two hospitals are also open 24 hours a day, seven days a week and
will take EU nationals. American Medical Center, 1 Berdychivska St. Tel: (00 380
44) 490 7600. Dobrobut Medical Center, 10 Pymonenka St. Tel: (00 380 44) 451
5060.You’ll require your passport and proof of travel insurance – and you may
be charged for treatment. Call an ambulance in emergency only. The British
European Clinic, 2nd floor, 4 Hlybochytska St (British Consular Section) is
another option. Open 9am-1pm, Tel: (00 380 44) 494 3438.
Pharmacies
Phone 067 for information on pharmacies and opening times.
PLEASANTRIES
Hello = privit (PREE-VEET)
Goodbye = do pobachenya
(DO PO-BA-CHE-NIA)
Please = bud laska (BOOT-LASKA)
Thanks = dyakuyu (DIA-KU-YOU)
Yes = tak (TAK)
No = ni (KNEE)
Nice to meet you = priemno
poznayomitisya
(PRE-EMNO PO-NA-YO-MEE-TEE-SIA)
My name is... = mene zvut…
(MENE S BOOT...)
Would you like a drink? =
Chi ne hotili b vi vipiti?
(SHE KNEE HO-TEA LEE BU V V-PETE?)
Cheers = budmo (BOOT-MO)
I’m sorry = vibachte (V BATCH-TE)
Do you want to join us?
= Hochete priednatisya?
(HO-CHE-TE PRE-YET NA-TEA SA?)
PRACTICAL
Where is the… = de znahoditsya…
(THE SNA HO-DIT SIA…)
• police station = miliciya (ME LEE SIA)
• football stadium = futbol’nyj stadion
(FOOTBOL-KNEE STA-DION)
• train station = vokzal (VOK SAL)
• bus station = avtobusna zupinka
(AFTO BUSNA ZOO PIN-KA)
• toilet = tualet (TWO R LET)
• hospital = likarnya (LI-KAR-NIA)
• main square = central’na plosha
(TEN-TRAL-NA PLOSHA)
• left / right / straight ahead / back
= nalivo/napravo/pryamo/nazad
(NALI-VO/ NAP-RA-VO/ PRiA-MO/
NA-ZAD)
Do you speak English? =
Vi znaete angliysku?
(V SNA YETE ANGLI ISCO)
I don’t understand = ya ne rosumiyu
(YA NE RO-ZOO-MIYU)
How do you telephone the UK?
= Yak mozhna podzvoniti v
velikobritaniyu? (YAK MOSH NA POTSVO-MAITE VU VELY KO BRITANIE U?)
Is this the right train/bus/tram to the
stadium? = Cey poizd / avtobus /
tramvay ide do stadionu?
(TAY PO YEAT-APTO / BUS / TRAM-VAY
IDE DO STA-DIO-NOO?)
How long will it take us to get to the
stadium from here?
= Yak dovgo do stadionu?
(YAK DOV-GO DO STA-DIO-NOO?)
How much? = Skilki? (SKILl-KEY?)
Four beers please / Four whiskies please /
Four vodkas please = chotiri piva bud
laska / chotiri viski bud laska /
chotiri vodki bud laska
(SHO-TY-RY PIVA BOOT LASKA/ SHOTY-RY VISKI BOOT LASKA/ SHO-TY-RY
VODKY BOOT LASKA)
I am Scottish = ya-shotlandets
(YA SHOT-LAN-DETS)
What would you recommend to eat/drink?
= Sho vy porekomenduete poisti /
vipiti? (SHO V PO-RE-COM EN-DO- ETE
PO EAST TE / V PAITE?)
Good= dobre (DOB-RE)
Bad = pogano (PO-GA-NO)
Small = malenkiy (MA-LEN KEY)
Large = velikiy (VE LEE KEY)
SIGNS
Exit = (V-HID)
Gate = (VO-RO-TA) Toilet= (Two-ALET)
Male= (CHOLO-vichi)
Female = (g no she)
Bus= (AV TO-BuS)
Train Station = (VOK-sAL)
Platform = (PLAT-FOR-MA)
Departure = (VID-PRAV-KA)
Stadium = (STA-DI-ON)
Taxi = (TAxI)
Metro = (MET-RO)
Open =
(VEED-CHEE-NE-NO)
Close=
(ZAK-REE-TO)
Push = (VID SE-BE)
Pull =
(DO SE-BE)