Jourdan - Nordstrom

Jourda n
New Season
Campaign Girls
Contributors
Alexander Fury
Alexander Fury is Fashion Editor of the Independent
and all-round walking fashion archive. Previously
Editor of LOVE magazine, Fury talks shop with
our NEWGEN recipients. Twitter: @AlexanderFury
Instagram: alexanderfury
Laura Weir
With editorships at Elle and Drapers under her belt,
Laura Weir is now Fashion Features Director and
columnist at Sunday Times Style. In this issue Weir
interviews Emma Farrow, Head of Design at Topshop.
Twitter: @Laura_Weir Instagram: laura_weir
WAY PERRY
Former Fashion Director of Man About Town and
Hype Editor of The Face, stylist Way Perry has worked
with photographers including Koto Bolofo and Boo
George. Perry celebrates 2014’s model army in our
New Faces story. Twitter: @way_perry
Emma Elwick-Bates
Emma Elwick-Bates is Vogue’s Style Editor and sits on
the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN panel. We
asked Elwick-Bates to pick her top ten essential pieces
for a stylish new season. Twitter: @emmaelwickbates
Instagram: emmaelwickbates
Alice Goddard
Stylist Alice Goddard is making a name for herself with
her minimalist and off-kilter aesthetic. The joint Editor
of emerging magazine Hot and Cool (a favourite at
Topshop HQ), she styles our Hey Nineteen fashion story.
hotandcool.biz
Theo Sion
Theo Sion has photographed for i-D and POP
magazines, and is joint Editor of Hot and Cool. Sion
teamed up with partner in crime Alice Goddard to
capture our Hey Nineteen shoot. hotandcool.biz
Hannah Murray
Hannah Murray is Topshop’s make-up consultant. The
UK-born, New York-based make-up artist has worked
with photographers such as Sølve Sundsbø and Alasdair
McLellan. See her beauty shoot on pg. 32. Twitter:
@hannah_murray1 Instagram: Hannah_murray1
Editor ’s
Letter
This season’s magazine is a celebration of the next generation of talent. The
next generation in the world of fashion, beauty, music and culture. In this
issue we introduce you to just a few names to watch out for.
We have supported the NEWGEN designer scheme for over 10 years
and this season we’ve asked Alexander Fury, the Independent’s Fashion Editor
and the industry’s encyclopaedia on anything fashion, to discuss our new stars
of NEWGEN. These designers – Lucas Nascimento, Paula Gerbase of 1205,
Marques’ Almeida, Simone Rocha, Ryan Lo, Claire Barrow and Danielle
Romeril – and our existing stable of incredible talent are keeping the eyes of the
world focused on London. Our fashion colleges are the best in the world and our
graduates are seen to be working in every major design house across the globe.
We love the new magazine, Hot and Cool, created and edited by the multitalented Alice Goddard who styles our lo-fi and achingly hip fashion story,
Hey Nineteen, shot by photographer Theo Sion. A pair that we’ll no doubt
be seeing more of.
Also, Fashion Features Director at the Sunday Times Laura Weir meets
our head of design Emma Farrow and tells us what it’s like to decide what
Topshop loves now.
Finally, we pick the new faces to follow in modelling, reveal our latest
design collaboration and ask make-up artist Hannah Murray to share her
brand new beauty looks.
We hope you enjoy exploring this year’s new generation of fashion talent.
Love Kate Phelan
Topshop Creative Director
& Vogue Contributing Fashion Editor
Black Leather Jacket $378
Red Stripe Top $68
Black Leather Skirt $140
Contents
6 Campaign Girls
8 Inside-Out
10 Life in Fashion
12 New Faces
20 Essential Trends
28 Little Miss Make-up
32 Go Native
34 Hey Nineteen
44 Topshop x Adidas
48 The Perfect 10
50 Topshop Unique
52 NewGen
Creative Director Kate Phelan Editorial Karla Evans Managing Editor Francesca Bernard Art Direction Ben Kelway Design Philippa Blood
Photography Josie Gealer Styling Carley Bishop Digital Design Carla Muguiro Digital Producer Lee Parker Video Editing Katie Freestone Sub Editor Jenny Cahill-Jones
We take our choice of campaign models very seriously.
Get acquainted with our all British line-up here
Campaign
G irls
6
Rosie Tapner
Jourdan Dunn
With stories of horse riding and lacrosse – we
promise you there’s no one more energetic or
entertaining to have on set than Rosie. After a
few seasons of being the Topshop make-up muse,
Rosie’s back again to pout through our shiny new
beauty looks.
Supermodel status with super carefree style –
Jourdan is the ultimate Topshop muse. Effortlessly
cool, bags of fun and gorgeous to boot. This
streetwear-loving model was the only option for
working our new Skate Away trend to perfection.
Did a leather jacket ever look so good?
Eliza Cummings
Charlotte Wiggins
If Elvis Presley were alive today, we reckon he’d
fancy Eliza Cummings. Not only is this rock ‘n’
roll chick our current hair crush but her quirky
look makes her the cutest beau for our kitschy Kiss
Me Margate trend. No one can rock a pastel coord quite like Eliza!
This Northern-lass-turned-Londoner is one we’re
tipping for the top. Charlotte’s been breaking
hearts with her killer cheekbones and swoonworthy hair and makes our denim and check heavy
Punk collection look utterly covetable.
Rosie
Eliza
Jourdan
Charlotte
7
The girls behind the trusty Topshop blog
– insideout.topshop.com – share what to do, see,
wear and watch for the season ahead
Inside -Out
1. Ms Delevingne on Film
Your everyday supermodel Cara Delevingne
may have bowled us over on catwalks and
magazine covers galore but she’s about to
show off her acting chops in the world of film.
Watch out for her star turn as a fun-loving
North London party girl in Kids in Love
and getting gritty in the controversial biopic
of Amanda Knox, The Face of an Angel.
Released August and late 2014
for a dai ly dose of inspiration H E A D T O
insideout.topshop.com
3. Matisse Makes The Cut
If there’s one exhibition to attend this year,
its got to be Tate Modern’s Henri Matisse:
The Cut-Outs. Equal parts euphoric and
inspiring, the show catalogues the last chapter
in Matisse’s rich life. We’re expecting a riot of
colour, epic proportions and wild innovation.
Don’t miss the landmark show before it travels
across the pond to New York’s MOMA. From
17th April at Tate Modern
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4. A Mighty Fine Photographer
We’ve always lived by the “one can never
have too many coffee table books” rule and
Wolfgang Tillmans’ latest monograph proves
this once again. The star photographer has
won the Turner prize, shot for i-D magazine
and snapped the likes of Kate Moss –
he’s basically the coolest photographer
we can think of. Get your creative juices
flowing with this new tome. Out 28th April
from Phaidon
6
2. Girls On Top: Foxes and Banks
Female artists are taking over the music
biz and this season we’re tipping these two
talented ladies to hit the big time. Eyelinerloving Foxes seduced us with her yo-yoing
vocals at South by Southwest and will be
bringing a hit-packed album our way in
March. Another similarly mononymic
artist Banks has made a striking impression
at Topshop HQ with a hypnotic blend of
musical genres and the kind of lyrics that
make you tear up. Foxes’ album is released next
month; Banks tours the UK next month
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5. Chicks in Lit
Calling all bookworms, we’ll be getting
our lit-fix this season with two fierce new
female writers. The unstoppable Helen
Oyeyemi pens a dark take on Snow White
in Boy, Snow, Bird and Naomi Wood’s
Mrs Hemingway deliciously blurs the
line between fact and fiction to reveal the
tumultuous lives of Hemingway’s four
wives. Eyes down, ladies! Out now
6. Fashion East – The New Guard
Yes, we’ve all heard about the NEWGEN
recipients but what about Lulu Kennedy’s new
troupe of Fashion East wonders? The designpioneering non-profit initiative has supported
the likes of J.W. Anderson and Katie Eary
and this season will be touting the pop-tastic
Ashley Williams, new-age knitwear star Helen
Lawrence and grunge-loving Louise Alsop. We
can’t wait! Follow our Fashion Week coverage at
Twitter.com/Topshop
9
Head of Design, Emma Farrow, talks to
Laura Weir about models of the moment, mixing
it up and the tribe of Topshop
Life in
F ashion
It’s the end of a long day for Emma Farrow,
Topshop’s head of design, although when she
breezes into the VIP shopping suite in the bowels
of Topshop Oxford Circus you’d never know
it. She’s tall, willowy and fabulous in a thighskimming white boyfriend shirt (the hemline
archly deconstructed of course), her whippet- thin
legs are clad in skinny black Topshop Joni jeans
and although Emma might be one of the most
powerful women on the high street, her Miu Miu
clad feet (you’ll be wearing them next season,
there’s already a wait-list) remain firmly rooted.
She is as chilled as an industry friend told me she
would be, and anyway, we must get on with it,
she’s promised her boyfriend she’ll be home in
time for tea.
“Girls like Cara and Kate don’t come
around that often. You have other big faces
but it’s a very unique recipe”
Fashion week isn’t that far away I smile,
trying to gage her level of fear – are these
Topshop folk last minute types, or have they
got their Unique catwalk show under control?
Emma gulps - but she’s sipping a bottle of water
to quench a tickle in her throat, there are no
nerves here. “Everything is so fast about Topshop
– we’re all about what’s next and what’s new,”
she says. “Backstage at the show it gets quite
crazy, the adrenaline starts coming involuntarily.
When the girls start getting in to hair and
make-up they become like a tribe and it brings
everything to life.”
It’s the Topshop tribe that we can all relate to,
or at least aspire to be part of, the cool girl coven
pasted all over the moodboards at head office, odes
to celebrities that influence what you’ll be buying
in store. “Kristen Stewart and Dakota fanning
are favourites,” says Emma. “Alexa is always in
there, and there’s Olivia Palermo as well – she does
polished very well.” And of course there are the
model pin ups, “Cara and Jourdan are amazing
to have backstage,” she flashes a slightly crooked
smile. “They’ll always be planning a little thing to
do on the catwalk, like a high five, or a little film
back stage. I love Sam Rollinson too, she’s one of
my favourites.”
And what’s Cara really like – is she as fun as
her Instagram feed would have us believe? “Cara,
like Kate Moss is an inspiration to us. She does
the casual look really well,” says Emma. “Girls like
Words by Laura Weir
Photographed by Alastair Strong
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WAT C H T H E I N T E RV I E W W I T H E M M A F A R R OW
youtube.com/topshoppodcasts
Cara and Kate don’t come around that often. You
have other big faces but it’s a very unique recipe.”
Speaking of Kate Moss, the next Kate Moss
x Topshop collection is out in April, and Emma
is one of a handful of people to have seen it. “It’s
the essence of Kate,” she says coyly. “It’s very
Kate, that’s all I can tell you.” And what else is on
team Topshop’s Google calendar this year? Well of
course there’s February’s fashion week show, and
the NewGen talent scheme that Topshop supports,
which helps to make sure that there’s a constant
flow of fresh design talent coming through the
“I look at old collectibles but also at what’s
happening on a street level”
British fashion ranks. Marques’ Almeida is Emma’s
hot tip for the NewGen designers to watch.
“When Marques’Almeida were first showing
on the catwalk it was really out there and that’s
what is exciting about our British designers; it’s
always quite irreverent and always very different.
NewGen gives them a platform. Continuing to
grow British fashion is really important.”
Out of the Personal Shopping suite and on
to the Oxford Street shopfloor and the Unique
collection, the range that team Cara wore down
the runway, is now selling, and it’s selling fast (I
witness two girls both going for the last canary
yellow fluffy jumper in a size 10). As for the rest
of the new season range there’s a Tumblr’s worth
of trends, from Skate Away, Kiss Me Margate and
New Monochrome. But how will we be wearing
them? Emma’s clever eyebrows arch and flicker –
styling is where she comes into her own. “Over
past seasons everything has been minimal and
modern and I think this season we’re mixing it
up,” says Emma. “There’s a more casual feeling
coming through, we see trainers carrying on. Prom
skirts worn with T-shirts and sweats – last year you
might have worn your sweat with a skinny jean,
but now it’s about wearing them with a mid-length
skirt. Wearing ‘what you think’ on your sweatshirt
is coming back, and the whole varsity look.” And
what about prints, I ask? “Mismatch your prints,
make them clash,” she says.
Emma has always been about coming at life
from a different angle, she uses the phrase ‘mix it
up’ a lot, and the way she has carved her career is
out of step with the path a standard career advisor
might suggest. Emma was a navy baby, she was
born in Hong Kong, and travelled the world as
a result of her father’s work (it’s probably this
exposure to exotic climes that gave her an eclectic
eye for design). The Farrow family eventually
settled in Fareham, Hampshire , but that’s not
exactly fashion’s epicentre, is it? “My way into
the role was not the norm – I trained in textiles, I
did knitting as my degree. I wanted to do textile
installations [think out-there artists like Tracey
Emin] but I had to work to fund being in London
and so I worked in Joseph in Brompton Cross,”
she says. “It was the place to be, the Prada sports
shoe was massive and Marni had just come about
and I started to get really interested in clothes.”
I have it on good authority that Emma once
spent her entire student grant on two pairs of Prada
shoes, and she’s a magpie for vintage finds. How
does she spot trends? “I look at old collectibles
but also at what’s happening on a street level,”
she explains. “What happens in fashion week sets
the mood for the season – so keep your eye on
the catwalks. And look at what your friends are
wearing – that’s how we do it! At the office we’re
always critiquing each other.” That’s when they’re
not sipping champagne – the end of the Topshop
working week is celebrated with fizzy Fridays. Who
doesn’t want to work in fashion? “It’s great, I love it
just as much now as when I started,” admits Emma.
“It’s so amazing when I see girls wearing our things,
I’m still always surprised.” And with that she’s off.
Back home for tea.
Emma Farrow
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The fresh-faced models we’re tipping
for breakthrough success
New
Faces
Photographed by Thomas Cooksey
Styled by Way Perry
Casting by Shelly Durkan
Makeup by Adam de Cruz
Hair by Teiji Utsumi
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WAT C H W H AT W E N T O N B E H I N D T H E S C E N E S
youtube.com/topshoppodcasts
Kitty @ Supa Model Management
What’s your fancy dress outfit of choice? A koala costume with a hood and feet. What
would your super power be? I would have to be a genie with the power to grant wishes
and have all the super powers there are. Who would you like to swap wardrobes with?
Bip Ling wears some really cool outfits, she has her own sense of style and doesn’t seem
to follow any trends. If you could be any animal, what would you be? Cats definitely
have an easy life. They just sleep, eat and chill all day. I could do that.
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PREVIOUS PAGE:
Yellow Knitted Crop Tee $72
Milla Shoe $60
Pale Denim Jean $42
Cube Pendant $9
THIS PAGE:
Denim Shirt $56
OPPOSITE PAGE:
White Shirt $64
Black Dungarees $116
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Olivia @ Elite Models
Daniela @ Storm Models
What’s your fancy dress outfit of choice? I’ve dressed up as Batman but I’d like to try
Catwoman next. What would your super power be? Teleportation. Who would you
like to swap wardrobes with? I love Olivia Palermo’s style, so being able to wear
some of her clothes would be amazing! If you could be an animal what would you be?
Maybe a sea turtle because I love the ocean, but all my friends say I’m like a giraffe.
What’s your fancy dress outfit of choice? A unicorn. What would your super power be?
Teleportation. Who would you like to swap wardrobes with? Blake Lively. If you could be
an animal what would you be? A gazelle. Tell us your most embarrassing moment?
I was walking my dog Seamus recently in the park and I got chatting to a nice lady.
Seamus then came over and decided to pee on her leg. Twice!
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THIS PAGE:
Striped Shirt $60
Light Acid Joni $52
OPPOSITE PAGE:
Black Hat $50
Roll Pocket Tee $24
Girlfriend Jean $80
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Doug @ Premier Models
Estella @ Next Model Management
What is your fancy dress outfit of choice? Bellatrix Lestrange from Harry Potter. What
would your super power be? Time travel. Who would you like to swap wardrobes with?
Alexa Chung. If you could be an animal what would you be? An elephant – they are
so big but still very graceful. Tell us your most embarrassing moment? Returning to
Newcastle the other day to be welcomed by my family, getting off the train, only to
trip over my own feet and fall flat on my face.
What’s your fancy dress outfit of choice? Probably a superhero or something food related
– or the two combined! What would your super power be? To fly! Who would you like
to swap wardrobes with? I’m quite tomboyish so someone like Patti Smith. If you
could be an animal what would you be? I think a bird, but wouldn’t mind being a lion
either. Tell us your most embarrassing moment? I’m really clumsy so you could take a
pick from a long list!
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THIS PAGE:
Blue V-Neck Jumper $140
Catch Silver Shoe $136
OPPOSITE PAGE:
Black and White Textured Jumper $64
Denim Shirt $56
Hoop Love Earrings $15
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Alice @ Img Models
Georgia @ Img Models
What is your fancy dress outfit of choice? Dorothy from the Wizard of Oz. What
would your super power be? Mind reading. Who would you like to swap wardrobes
with? Morticia Adams: she has quite a sense of style! If you could be an animal what
would you be? I have always loved elephants. What is your most embarrassing moment?
Watching my father dancing as a swan in the school pantomime dressed in feathery
trousers and a ripped T-shirt.
What is your fancy dress outfit of choice? I would definitely choose a Disney princess!
What would your super power be? To fly! It would save me time getting around to places.
Who would you like to swap wardrobes with? I like the idea of sharing Jennifer Lawrence’s
wardrobe. Her red carpet dresses are beautiful. If you could be an animal what would
you be? A squirrel – they’re so cute! Or maybe a panda or an owl. Tell us your most
embarrassing moment? I manage to do embarrassing things all the time!
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Tropical prints, languid silhouettes and larger-than-life
accessories bring a nostalgic mood to SS14
WAT C H W H AT W E N T O N B E H I N D T H E S C E N E S
youtube.com/topshoppodcasts
Made for lounging
in aR iviera villa
or working the
promenade on Venice
Beach, we turn up
the heat on summer’s
essential trends.
Photographed by Josie Gealer
Styled by Carley Bishop
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Island Life
Style Tribes
Whether you’re hitting a beach rave or BBQ-ing in your back garden, make summer
parties totally tropical with botanical prints and statement necklaces. Go for catwalkworthy co-ords or dress it down with denim, and finish every look with brightly
coloured sliders made for dancing ’til sunrise.
Forget those treading the gap year trail in hemp and tie-dye; tribal dressing has been
given a high fashion makeover for SS14. Taking inspiration from the four corners
of the globe, printed pyjama trousers and intricately crafted tops bring the glamour,
while chunky jewellery completes this haute-hippy look.
PREVIOUS PAGE:
Limited Edition Palm Tree Top $130
Denim Shorts $56
Blue Snake Coin Bag $60
Beaded Collar $40
Spring Bracelet $17
THIS PAGE:
Blurred Floral Top $68
Flower Collar $40
Floral Earrings $17
Blurred Floral Trouser $84
Katch Pink Shoe $136
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Black Frill Cami $52
White Floral Crochet Tee $56
Disc Earrings $17
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Kiss Me Quick
Take your style cues from the French Riviera’s golden age, with scalloped sundresses
and oh-so-retro gingham. Accessories-wise, it’s all about making those heads turn – so
grab your most movie star hat and we’ll see you in St Tropez.
THIS PAGE:
Scallop Shift Dress $110
Straw Floppy Hat $50
White Patent Glitter Jelly Shoe $110
Light Blue Gingham Socks $7
OPPOSITE PAGE:
Gingham Cropped Trousers $84
Gingham Shell Top $68
Rim Tie Straw Hat $40
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Good Sport
Want to know how to do sportswear this season? Whatever you wear, make it monochrome. Sportswear is having a minimal moment with clean lines and graphic colour
blocking, accented with old-school styling hits like vinyl macs and slip-on sandals.
THIS PAGE:
Black Cross-Back Swimsuit $42
Silver Metal Cuff $29
Chain Collar $29
Ribbed Crop $16
Snakeskin Panel Denim Skirt $68
Fever Pool Slides $70
OPPOSITE PAGE:
Plastic Raincoat $80
Black Macramé Back Bikini $68
White Ripped Mum Jeans $70
Words by Holly Swayne
Make-up by Danielle Kahlani
Hair styling by Nicole Kahlani
Assistant photography by Alick Cotterill
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R ead o u r interview with H annah M u rray on the b l og
insideout.topshop.com
OPPOSITE PAGE:
False Lash Mascara $20
Kohl in Coal $8
Lip Bullet in Crave $16
Glow Highlighter in Gleam $18
Brighten Concealer in Moonlight $14
THIS PAGE:
Lips in Screen Siren $14
Glow Highlighter in Polish $18
False Lash Mascara $20
LittleMiss
Make-up
Model du jour Rosie Tapner smoulders her
way through our SS14 make-up looks as designed by
Topshop Beauty consultant Hannah Murray
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Tippex Chic
Go bold or go home. Brave a statement beauty trick this season and make your peepers
pop using our White Double-Ended Kohl. Slick a line along your top lashes with the
ice white shade and finish with a healthy dose of mascara to stay ahead of the trends.
For make-up extroverts only!
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Glow Highlighter in Gleam $18
Lip Paint in Elevate $16
False Lash Mascara $20
Magic Liner $13
Bronzing Powder in Mohawk $18
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False Lash Mascara $20
Brighten Concealer in Moonlight $14
Lip Bullet in Hibiscus $16
Ibiza Grunge
The PVC Lip
Loosely inspired by the Topshop Unique SS14 beauty look: it’s one part hot mess,
one part ’90s grunge. Get that just rolled out of bed look with our beauty bag
favourite Grunge Stick and add a touch of glow with our Molten Eye colour medley.
Now, let’s dance…
Forget about vinyl skirts, it’s all about the vinyl lip. High gloss just went off the scale
with our new Lip Varnishes. Channel the shock factor in vivid pink Field Day and
complement your peepers with a smoky wash of coral across your eyelids and lower
lashes. Pretty in pink has never been more appropriate.
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Take a trip to faraway lands
by mixing your metals with exotic
jewels and artisan beading
G o Nat ive
LEFT PAGE:
Crescent Drop Necklace $29
Twisted Necklace $37
Jewelled Ring $20
Silver Metal Cuff $29
Beaded Necklace $37
Multi-pack Ring Set $20
Engraved Earrings $17
RIGHT PAGE:
Textured Stick Necklace $33.20
Jewelled Hand Chain $29
Fabric Bracelet $29
Drop Rope Necklace $25
Drop Earrings $20
Tear Drop Earrings $17
Tribal Necklace $40
Photographed by Emma Jobs
Set Design by Sarah Parker
Production by Carley Bishop
Words by Holly Swayne
Joint editors behind Hot and Cool magazine,
Alice Goddard and Theo Sion, look to London’s winter light
and lots of stripes for their lo-fi fashion story
Hey
Nineteen
Alice Goddard and Theo Sion rarely look to the grand
illusions of fashion for their shoot concepts but instead
pin them on simplicity, reality and fun. For their debut
fashion story for Topshop they took to the streets
around Goddard’s flat to capture model Honour in
hand-picked pieces from our SS14 collections. “The
shoot concept ended up being based on practicalities,”
says Theo, “it was a short day – the second shortest
day of the year – but there was really amazing light.”
With no make-up artists or hair stylists on set, the
pair were clearly familiar with minimalism. “So much
of what we do is keeping it simple and not trying to
do something that we know we couldn’t achieve,” said
Alice, “being honest to ourselves.” Their authentic
vision translates into their magazine, Hot and Cool,
which often features street cast models and vintage
clothing, and is a definite reaction against the
digital world. “We’re very conscious of it not being
online,” said Alice, “the internet makes everything
disposable. You can put things up and take them
down so easily. When you create a magazine in print,
it’s really final.”
Photographed by Theo Sion
Styled by Alice Goddard
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R E A D T H E I N T E RV I E W W I T H A L I C E G O D D A R D & T H E O S I O N
insideout.topshop.com
Previous page:
Unicorn Mint T-Shirt $56
Cashmere Striped Jumper $180
This page:
Cashmere Striped Jumper $180
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THIS PAGE:
White Cotton Shirt $56
OPPOSITE PAGE:
Striped Cotton Dress $44
Cashmere Striped Jumper $180
Striped Shirt $64
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WAT C H W H AT W E N T O N B E H I N D T H E S C E N E S
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Tiger Tee Dress $70
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THIS PAGE:
Gingham Shirt $60
Medium Hold Punch Belt $50
A Line Skirt $56
WAT C H W H AT W E N T O N B E H I N D T H E S C E N E S
youtube.com/topshoppodcasts
OPPOSITE PAGE:
Check Shirt $76
Textured Square Midi Full Skirt $90
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Adidas x
Topshop
Hit the ground running this
summer with the new Topshop for
Adidas capsule collection
Thought sport was off the menu in fashion? Think
again. Meet the Topshop x Adidas collection – the
stylish sportswear line that’s enough to get us all
running marathons before the summer is out.
The Topshop design team delved into the
Adidas Originals archives to create the 20-piece
capsule collection, re-imagining Adidas icons for
you sartorially savvy lot. Classic tees and running
shorts are recreated in luxe textured materials,
while the famous three-stripe tracksuit is tailored
to a slim and streamlined silhouette. Elsewhere,
bespoke prints inspired by the London landscape
adorn Adidas icons like the Firebird track top and
Superstar trainer, offering a fresh colour palette
of soft coral, field green and gritty monochrome.
It’s safe to say we won’t just be sweating it out
at the gym. Launches 20th March. Shop online at
nordstrom.com/topshop
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c o l l e c tion l a u n c hes
20th March. Shop at nordstrom.com/topshop
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Vogue Style Editor Emma Elwick-Bates selects
her 10 perfect picks for the season
Perfect 10
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WAT C H T H E I N T E RV I E W
insideout.topshop.com
5. A mighty roll call (whose taste one cannot
question) loved the simple sailor stripe top;
from Picasso to Jean Shrimpton, Bardot to
Cobain. I buy several a season in different
sizes – small to wear with loose trousers,
oversize to wear with skinny jeans over a
crisp blue oxford shirt. Striped Jumper $52
6. Sandals simply don’t work in the city,
especially on busy public transport. I like the
uptown luxe espadrille. Zebra seems smarter
for work and less showy than leopard print.
Koala Espadrille $90
7
7 . A practical but chic addition to your wardrobe
– the “not-too-big” duffle/kit style day bag in
elephant grey. Grey Double Zip Bag $84
8. The case for classic nails – a poppy red
gloss adds a demure finish to a ripped denim
ensemble. Nail Varnish in Bittersweet $12
1. Ankle socks are the quirkiest item in
my wardrobe. I often buy them with when
traveling – Tokyo has colossal sock shops, and I
love Topshop’s selection. I would wear casually
with a Prada wedge, but I do like them with a
party heel too. Gold Ankle Socks $7
2. The grunge-era plaid shirt lives on. Look
for the softest cotton (like this one) and layer
over anything, or tie around the waist of a
green army jacket. It will immediately bring
a sense of being perfectly undone. Oversized
Check Shirt $60
5
2
3. A green wax jacket unites landed gentry,
farmers and cool kids – it’s a classless garment
that with see you through festivals and the polar
vortex, and looks great worn for night over a
sequin slip dress. Cropped Khaki Jacket $96
4. Skinny jeans are the hardworking,
unofficial member of any good rock band –
think about the Warhol album artwork for
The Rolling Stones’ Sticky Fingers, or Patti
Smith’s Horses shot by the amazing Robert
Mapplethorpe. Also they go with any shoe
type, which is a definite plus. With heels I
like to wear them with a rough-roll turn-up.
New Baxter Jean $70
9. A simple mannish, bar chain is my personal
gold standard. Bar Necklace $11
6
10. The ideal neutral coloured knit (other
than navy blue but they do look jolly good
together). I first fell for camel watching the
exquisitely stylish Julie Christie in the thriller
Don’t Look Now. I’d wear it belted over a
pencil skirt with a seventies knee-boot in her
honour. Camel Knit $76
8
10
9
49
WAT C H T H E AW1 4 S H OW
3pm GMT on 16th Feb at topshop.com and nordstrom.com
Topshop
Unique
It’s a Heat Rave
Head of Design Emma Farrow and Creative
Director Kate Phelan look to humid days and
heady nights on Ibiza’s idyllic beaches and carefree
clubs for a collection that’s hot-hot-hot. Think
Mediterranean mosaics and intricate tile prints
scattered across lounge pants and oversized tunics,
while barely-there sun dresses dot the runway in
vivid marigold and midnight blue. Your Unique
adventure awaits. The ss14 collection is available to
buy from 6th Feb.
50
Fashion industry favourite Alexander Fury
talks to the emerging designers sponsored by this year’s
NEWGEN initiative
Newgen
Photographed by Josie Gealer
Words by Alexander Fury
52
K E E P U P T O D AT E W I T H N E WG E N ’ s AW 1 4 S H OW S
twitter.com/topshop
Ryan Lo
“I don’t know if you can tell… but that’s me
actually.” Young designer Ryan Lo is jabbing at his
first look-book, all candy floss pink and glitter, a
tinsel wig concealing the model’s face. You’d never
know it was a bloke behind all those ruffles. That’s
because Ryan Lo’s work is the epitome of girly-girly.
On Wednesdays, Mean Girls wear pink – but for
Ryan Lo, pink is a way of life.
That’s not to say his fashion is a predictable
version of frilly femininity. Ryan takes a younger,
more irreverent approach, combining pop-culture
references like Sylvanian Families and Japanese
Ganguro girl get-ups with throw-away homages
to Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. He also
has an eye for amazing technique: for spring, arty
craft-knitting studded cardigans and sweaters with
strawberries or three-dimensional piglets. “I was
very interested in knit because I always wanted to
be a grandmother actually,” deadpans Lo. “I always
wanted to be a housewife – but I can’t. So knitting
was a traditional technique… it takes patience and
time to do it.”
“I guess my signature is in the spirit
of trying new things”
Especially when you learn said technique
from YouTube, as Ryan did, when he moved to
London from Hong Kong aged just 16 (he’s barely
24 now). But fashion was something he was drawn
to early on. “I didn’t have a specific moment,”
he recalls. “I obviously loved dolls and stuff like
that… The kind of Lolita thing. Maybe quite evil
in a way. More naughty.”
He’s still mining that dolly mixture today,
but there’s something tougher combined with
his trademark Kawaii. His spring/summer 2014
collection was his last under the Topshop-supported
Fashion East scheme, and his best to date. It netted
him NEWGEN support for the autumn/winter
season. What can we expect, then, from Ryan
Lo’s latest? “Just trying to be original,” he states
– keeping a lid on his plans. “For a new designer
you kind of have to make your name. I guess my
signature is in the spirit of trying new things.”
1205
Isn’t part of the appeal of fashion the bright lights,
cameras and catwalk action? The interviews, the
celebrity, the hunger to see your name emblazoned
across a label stitched into the back of someone’s
neck? Well, not always. Certainly not for Paula
Gerbase. She titles her label 1205, after the date
she was born (12 May), and despite being the
physical embodiment of her pared-back aesthetic,
all blunt-cut black fringe and immaculately lintrollered tailoring, she tends to take a back-seat.
What Paula proposes for women – and,
incidentally, for men, as her design ethos is
fundamentally unisex – is the idea of “purity,
restraint and substance.” There isn’t much colour,
nor print or decoration. What there is, is lots
of precise tailoring, cut with stark simplicity in
superb fabrics. Her background is Savile Row:
after studying womenswear at Central Saint
Martins, she worked for the Queen’s dressmaker
Hardy Amies, and then for five years at bespoke
bastion Kilgour. Paula was born in Brazil to a German mother
and Italian father, moving to America and then
to Switzerland. There’s something that makes
eminent sense in that mishmash cross-continent
53
blend when you look at 1205: there’s the rigour
of German modernism, that Mies van der Rohe
ideal that God is in the details; Italy surrenders
superlative tailoring and exquisite fabrication;
Switzerland suggests a cleanliness and purity;
and Paula even manages to tie all of that up
with the easy, breezy ready-to-wear ethos of
American sportswear.
“The most challenging and also
the easiest aspect of design is staying true
to your own beliefs”
Couple all of that with Brazil, a sensuality and
facility of fabrics, and it’s a winning combination
that women, and men, are coming to 1205 for.
Besides keeping up with demand, what is the most
challenging aspect of design for Paula? “The most
challenging and also the easiest aspect of design is
staying true to your own beliefs.” She seems to be
managing well. Kudos.
Photographer:
Sean and Yvette Photography
in 2012 after studies at Limerick School of Art
and Design and the Royal College of Art in
London. She should add wearable, and desirable,
to that mix. Danielle’s work, focused on simple
shapes and intricate, painstaking and resolutely
modern surface detailing, has caused the fashion
press and buyers alike to sit up and take notice.
Her label is only in its third season, but her
approach has garnered her plaudits and
stockists, as well as her first season as part of
Topshop’s NEWGEN.
Her inspirations are unusual: she’s based
collections on all-girl skate gangs, on sticky tape
and bubble-wrap – yes, the addictively poppable
packaging, translated into three-dimensional
textures on organza overcoats, intricately inset
with lace. Come autumn/winter 2014, she’s been
staring for long bouts looking at lenticulars, those
striated prints that give the impression of depth or
movement, particularly a tacky one of astronauts
from the sixties. “The nostalgia of the teenage
bedroom, the lo-fi technology of the lenticular
print technique, the optical illusion, the loving
something that you know you shouldn’t – all
combined in informing the collection.”
Nevertheless, as with all of Danielle’s work,
those disparate elements are boiled down into
desirable, modern clothing. “I was partying a
lot and decided to design and make a coat that
would make me look old enough to get into
pubs and clubs, and also look really cool,” says
“Organic, happily accidental, instinctive…
on a good day!”
Danielle Romeril
“Organic, happily accidental, instinctive… on a
good day!” Those are the words Danielle Romeril
uses to describe her eponymous label, founded
54
Danielle, of her sixteen year old self. “I bought a
book and taught myself to pattern cut and made
the coat from scratch. It worked, I got served.”
Although we wouldn’t encourage that sort of thing,
Danielle is still walking – sort of – the same path,
creating clothes that are sophisticated, elegant,
but also playful.
This wasn’t her first encounter with fashion,
of course. “I remember having design competitions
with this other girl at school aged 9. We would
sketch for 10 mins each and then our friends would
judge whose [drawings] were the best,” recalls
Danielle with a laugh. “I was forever drawing
T-shirts and shorts! I guess I was and still am a bit
of a tomboy.” She also allows that “My mum was a
big influence too, she wore beautiful clothes, Yohji
and Jil Sander when no-one in Dublin was wearing
labels like that. She did it in a really unselfconscious
way, she didn’t care whose name was on it she just
knew clothes that were beautiful garments were
exciting.” Like mother, like daughter.
Photographer:
Jacob Lillis
Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha’s studio is white. Very, very white.
She doesn’t do clutter well. Her Christmas
decorations are up (it’s mid-December) but they’re
plain white paper, and you get the feeling she’s
itching to rip them down. “For me, I’m all about
the edit,” Rocha says. “I like to get it all out and
then refine it.”
Simone was born in Dublin in 1986 – she
studied at the National College of Art & Design
in Dublin before her MA at Central Saint Martins.
Her Irish brogue is as thick as the perspex soles on
her signature “floating” footwear. She also has the
filthiest, funniest laugh in all of fashion, a cross
between a goose honking and a foghorn.
Simone studied at The National College of
Art & Design in Dublin, before her BA at Central
Saint Martins. She was immediately spotted by
Lulu Kennedy, who gave her a platform to show her
spring 2011 collection as part of Fashion East. “I
was blown away,” recalls Kennedy. “Her collection
jumped right out at me from the catwalk; its
appeal was massive and instant… strong and unstudenty.” Simone showed at Fashion East for two
seasons before going it alone, gaining the support
of NEWGEN and an impressive range of stockists.
What is it about the clothes? “For me, I always
wear my heart,” says Rocha. “If you put your heart
in something you sound much more powerful.” Fashion is not only in Rocha’s heart, but in
her blood too: her father is the fashion designer
John Rocha, and while you’d think she’d play
that connection down, Rocha is open about her
fashionable upbringing. “I’ve been going to shows
since I was zero. I started working on them when
I was 11, I started assisting when I was 14, then
I worked with dad until I was 17 when I went to
college,” she relates. “But I grew up in Ireland, so it
was never very ‘fashiony’.”
But Simone could be credited with making
Ireland the epicentre of the modern fashion scene.
It’s a constant source of inspiration for her, from
her Irish grannies, to truant schoolgirls and Dublin
street-kids of the ’30s, to Connemara, a wild
“There’s so much more to the world
than Minimalism!”
stretch of Western Ireland that inspired Simone’s
unabashedly romantic spring collection, from the
mossy colour through to pearl-embellished popsocks and wrapped tulle veils.
“I really want to create a beautiful thing
that has longevity,” states Simone. But it’s not
very mean or clean, is it? She honks that brilliant
laugh. “Hah! There’s so much more to the world
than Minimalism!”
55
Lucas Nascimento
Lucas Nascimento established his own label in
2011, following studies at the London College
of Fashion. After a stint showing at Rio Fashion
Week, he’s been presented on the London Fashion
Week schedule since 2012 as part of Topshop’s
NEWGEN, and last season showed the first
catwalk show for his line, now stocked by major
retailers across the globe. The highlight of his
career thus far? “Investing in my first industrial
knitting machine!” declares Brazilian Nascimento,
with boundless enthusiasm.
That’s a refreshing thing to hear a designer
say, and it epitomises Lucas’ approach to creating
clothes – namely, that said clothes come first.
Both designer and label may be young, but they’ve
been marked out by attention to detail, intricate
technique, and breathtaking sophistication. The
“I never get tired of seeing my
ideas come to life”
latter comes from his mother: “a very elegant
woman. She had an effortless sense of style,” he
says, relaying that she was his first inroad into
the world of fashion. As for the former, he states:
“I think design for the luxury market is about
Claire Barrow
Claire Barrow’s studio is up in the wilds of East
London – not ideologically, in the sense of “cool”
or “trendy” young Dalstonites, but literally. There
are trees, and birdsong, and it’s quite a long busride to get there. She’s away from other designers,
just like her clothes are.
Barrow’s studio is a hive of activity, because her
clothing is some of the most labour-intensive of all
London designers. Her University of Westminster
graduation show established her signature: intricate
hand-worked surfaces, especially the hand-painted
leather jacket. Claire sources vintage examples and
hand-paints designs onto them herself. No two are
exactly alike.
“Illustrated garments and the underground,”
are her choice words to describe what she does,
as well as the eternal “DIY” epithet that, to some
degree, fails to capture how unique and refined her
technique has become. It does, however, capture
the rawness of her inspirations, which have run
the gamut from Kenneth Anger’s art-house film
The Inauguration Of The Pleasuredome to the
intricate, swirly-whirly labels that adorn bottles
of Absinthe and Jack Daniels. “People wear these
kind of things on T-shirts,” Claire said of that
56
finishing the garments to the highest possible
standard. The inside of the garments should be as
considered and beautiful as the outside.” In case that major machinery purchase
didn’t give the game away, Lucas Nascimento
is a knitter, and a natty one at that. He creates
his own textiles, knitting the fabrics he uses,
whether floral scrolled jacquards, crunchy
semi-transparent net, or the fluffy chenille he
peppered his spring 2014 collection with, used
for towel-alike wrap dresses in eye-popping
turmeric yellow. Even when he uses leather for
mid-calf skirts or oversized coats, he bonds a
knitted layer inside, to give a flash of colour as
the wearer walks. “Knitwear is such a special craft
in that way because for a lot of designers their
starting point is the fabric, but we get to start
with the raw material and influence every part of
the process,” says Lucas. “It’s exciting. It makes
the possibilities endless.”
Considering how invested he is in that –
the very process of creation – it is notable that it
isn’t Lucas’ favourite part of what he does. “The
beginning and the end,” he states, when asked
what he finds most satisfying about fashion design.
“From unwrapping the first box of yarns to seeing
the final creation float down the catwalk. I never
get tired of seeing my ideas come to life.” collection. I remember her showing me half-adozen pictures of men dressed in the ubiquitous
Jack Daniels-emblazoned T-shirts. But then, she
shrugged “My mum said it was disgusting.”
That’s not a description that leaps to mind
when thinking of Barrow’s work. Sure, it’s raw, her
painting technique impressionistic, her preference
for contrasts of black and vibrant primaries, with
plenty of leather and raw hems. There’s a punk
aesthetic, an air of rebellion to what she does.
It has a cultish feeling, which appeals to a loyal
and ever-growing cadre of devotees that first
cottoned on to her style when she showed her
spring 2013 collection as a static installation as part
of Fashion East.
But Claire certainly doesn’t see her devotees
“When you have a creative mind, you want
to explore every path you can”
– or those instantly-recognisable and muchcoveted leather jackets – as the limit of her output
or appeal. “When you have a creative mind, you
want to explore every path you can,” states Claire
philosophically. “But sometimes, the best ideas
are the most simple…. Then covered in paintings
by me!”
57
COMING SOON
nordstrom.com/topshop
Photographer:
Miguel Miguel
Marques’Almeida
I have been puzzling for a few seasons over exactly
what the clothes shown under Marta Marques
and Paulo Almeida’s collaborative label Marques’
Almeida remind me of. Then, at their spring/
summer 2014 show, it clicked. Those boot-cut
jeans? That chopped-off raw waist? It’s Mariah
Carey in the Heartbreaker music video!
Luckily, that’s a reference the Marques’
Almeida twosome would entirely approve of. After
starting their career with grungy, punky layers
of mashed up, chewed up frayed denim, they’re
now looking back to the nineties, and even the
noughties. “We look at editorials a lot… and then
shows from that era as well, it could be Comme
des Garçons, Dolce and Gabbana, Helmut Lang
or Armani,” say Paulo and Marta. Few designers
would lay their inspirations quite so bare, but
like those denims, Marques’Almeida masticate
their reference materials so forcefully they’re
barely recognisable.
Marta and Paulo first crossed paths at fashion
school in Portugal – but their interest in fashion
started way before that. “I remember one of those
VHS video tapes of shows that you’d get with ELLE
or something lying around the house,” recalls
Marta. “And me obsessing over it. There’s also the
background that might sound super cliché but its
absolutely true, my grandmother was a seamstress,
she had a massive room where she’d work…
58
trash bags full of scraps… she would let me play
around.” Paulo recalls first being “very interested
in architecture, and then thinking it wasn’t exciting
enough. I guess I saw a lot of Fashion TV when I
was a kid!” Marta and Paulo became Marques’Almeida
by joining forces on the Central Saint Martins
MA course, showing a combined graduate
collection in 2011 before two seasons with Lulu
Kennedy’s Fashion East initiative. Frayed denim,
from the offset, was their trademark, jeans hacked
open at the thighs, dresses intricately shredded
and layers of fabric bonded to create camouflage
effects. But Marques’Almeida also work leathers,
pony skin and precious fabrics like taffeta with
the same deconstructed, anti-precious approach.
“Those boot-cut jeans? That choppedoff raw waist? It’s Mariah Carey in the
Heartbreaker music video”
“Raw, quietly defiant,” is how they describe their
look – which applies to everything from denim to
evening dresses.
Who is the ideal Marques’Almeida customer?
“I guess our customer is someone that somehow
identifies with the references we use and live
surrounded by, and wants something exciting on
a personal level,” reasons Marta. “Something that
they can relate to instinctively and that feels special
for that reason.”
K ate Moss
xTopshop
Coming soon