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Jancis Robinson
1 von 22
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Grosses Gewächs 2007
8 Sep 2008 by Michael Schmidt
German wine specialist Michael Schmidt v ery kindly of f ered to share with us his
tasting notes taken at the of f icial launch of the top German wines of the 2007
v intage in Wiesbaden at the end of last month. He has been attending this ev ent
since its inception f our or f iv e y ears ago and comments,
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'If y ou f ind my marks rather generous I can only say that 2007 has liv ed up to
expectations and has turned out to be a truly great v intage, by f ar the best since
the Grosse Gewächse hav e been introduced. Whereas the challenges of 2006
sorted the wheat f rom the chuf f with regard to growers’ skills, 2007 was a y ear
where ev en Tom, Dick and Harry Winzer could hardly get it wrong, though in the
non-Riesling sector the taming of the alcohol could be a bit tricky .' Thank y ou v ery
much indeed. Michael.
Tamlyn Currin, one of Michael Schmidt’ s wine students, writes: Michael was born in
Germany , but headed ov er to England in the swinging ‘60s – whether f or lov e, or
rock and roll remains a point of debate but it certainly wasn’t f or the wine or cuisine.
Despite that, he spent the decade f rom 1973 to 1983 try ing to lif t British standards
by running a f amily restaurant in Ewell, Surrey . It was there that he cut his teeth
buy ing wine and managing the restaurant cellar. He passed the WSET Diploma in
1980, and started working as a prof essional wine writer and taster f rom 1982. Since
the mid-1980s, Michael has contributed articles to the Sunday Telegraph Good Wine
Guide. He has also been the specialist German consultant f or Sotheby' s World Wine
Encyclopedia since 1986. In the mid-1980’s he became a wine tutor in Adult
Education classes and in 1998 started his own wine school. In 2004, Michael became
the editor f or the German section in the annual Wine Report. He is also an
International Wine & Spirits Competition judge. He keeps try ing to retire to the Ahr
Valley to start drinking up his Prüms, but his wine students keep dragging him back.
ACHAM-MAGIN, Pfalz
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29 Aug 2008 by Julia Harding MW
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25 Aug 2008 by Linda Murphy
Acham-Magin, Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16
Drink 2009-13
Pineapple and grapef ruit on nose, nice def ining acidity , medium body , not great but
v ery well balanced.
(MS)
Acham-Magin, Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Pfalz 17 Drink 2009-14
Fresh apply , steely nose; baked apple spiked with nutmeg, lov ely texture,
well-dosed acidity , great balance, though lighter and not as concentrated as some of
the heav y weights it inv ites to be drunk.
(MS)
GERHARD ALDINGER, Württemberg
Gerhard Aldinger, Fellbacher Lämmler Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Württemberg 15 Drink 2009-13
Some interesting herbal notes with a hint of f ennel; light in f ruit, quite sof t, not v ery
long.
13.5%
(MS)
FRITZ ALLENDORF, Rheingau
Fritz Allendorf, Winkeler Jesuitengarten Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007
Rheingau 15.5 Drink 2009-12
Sof t, peachy , minerally , all the Rheingau attributes, but a little on the light side
without a great deal of concentration.
12.5%
(MS)
ST. ANTONY, Rheinhessen
St Antony, Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Rheinhessen 15.5 Drink 2009-12
Apple peel nose; dev elops well on palate; restrained f ruit, acidity and alcohol in good
balance; may be a bit short and f inishing of f on apple peel rather than apple.
12.5%
(MS)
St Antony, Niersteiner Őlberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Rheinhessen
15.5 Drink 2009-12
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
2 von 22
Quite neutral. Nice spread on palate, rich texture, may be just a little hot on f inish, sav ed by a
modicum of acidity .
13%
(MS)
St Antony, Niersteiner Orbel Riesling GrossesGewächs 2007 Rheinhessen 15.5 Drink
2009-12
Quite f umy and waxy ; f ull-bodied, already well balanced, but slightly lightweight on f ruit.
12.5%
(MS)
WEIN- UND SEKTGUT BARTH, Rheingau
Wein- und Sektgut Barth, Hattenheimer Hassel Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007
May be a little v olatile; bitter elements dominate on palate, a little hot, pink grapef ruit f rom
f lesh to pith.
(MS)
GEH. RAT DR. VON BASSERMANN-JORDAN, Pfalz
Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2007 Pfalz 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Restrained on nose; quite earthy , melon skin and grapef ruit pith f lav ours, slightly hot on
f inish.
13%
(MS)
Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Grosses
Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16 Drink 2009-13
Muted, hint of sulphur, quite spirity ; on the palate as successf ul combination of creamy
texture, f ull body and earthy f ruit; just-in-time acidity .
13%
(MS)
Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2007 Pfalz 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Restrained sof t apply nose; also quite sof t on palate without too much def inition, liv es of well
balanced acidity ; medium length.
13%
(MS)
Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Grosses
Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2009-13
Generous nose of apricot and some exotic f ruit; creamy with tactile f ollow-up; dried rather
than f resh apricots; just a hint of almond kernel creeping in, also quite a spirity f inish.
13%
(MS)
Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen Riesling Grosses
Melon and mango scents; quite broad, slightly earthy , the merest herbal touches, a tad tactile.
13%
(MS)
BASTIAN, Mittelrhein
Bastian, Bacharacher Posten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Mittelrhein 15 Drink
2009-12
Quite green, almost nettles; nutmeg and pear skin, spice a little too obtrusiv e, quite hot f inish.
(MS)
BATTENFELD-SPANIER, Rheinhessen
Battenfeld-Spanier, Nieder-Flörsheimer Frauenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Rheinhessen 15 Drink 2009-13
Nose of spontaneous f ermentation/sulphur. Quite v egetal, almost cabbagey , probably
bottle-sick. There is potential underneath all that adv ersity .
13.5%
(MS)
Battenfeld-Spanier, Hohen-Sülzener Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Starting of f quite sweet, but then the more serious elements of minerality and stone f ruit
come through. Finish quite hot, but v ery , v ery long and expanding all the time. Massiv e
concentration.
13.5%
(MS)
FRIEDRICH BECKER, Pfalz
Friedrich Becker, Schweigener Sonnenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 15.5
Drink 2009-13
Fascinating nose of exotic f ruit and a hint of caramel; v ery sof t and creamy , but trailing of f a
little short.
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
3 von 22
(MS)
BRŰDER DR. BECKER, Rheinhessen
Brüder Dr. Becker, Dienheimer Tafelstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Rheinhessen
16.5 Drink 2009-14
Grapef ruit and cinnamon nose; v ery nice balance of spice, apple and grapef ruit; really f resh,
mouth-watering acidity , medium length, nice wine.
13%
(MS)
BERGDOLT-ST. LAMPRECHT, Pfalz
Bergdolt-St Lamprecht, Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Pfalz 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Full-bodied, v ery spicy and slightly earthy ; may be a bit on the spirity side, lacking f reshness
a little.
13.5%
(MS)
BICKEL-STUMPF, Franken
Bickel-Stumpf, Thüngersheimer Johannisberg “Rothlauf” Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2007 Franken 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Quite unusual nose of gorse and whisky barrels, some kind of wood inf luence, may be barrelf ermented. Attractiv e, but not instantly recognisable as Riesling.
(MS)
JOSEF BIFFAR, Pfalz
Josef Biffar, Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16 Drink
2009-13
Ripe apple with a hint of Mandarin Napoleon; quite spirity , but still f resh enough; broader
sty le.
(MS)
Josef Biffar, Deidesheimer Grainhübel Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16 Drink
2009-13
A smidgeon of pear; understated ty pe, lov ely light and f resh tone of crisp apple; may be not
the deepest and longest , but with a ref reshing greenness on the palate.
(MS)
Josef Biffar, Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16.5 Drink
2009-14
Lov ely balance of f ruit, spice and acidity with alcohol well reined in, a v ery ty pical Pf alz
Riesling without any airs and graces, good length, already showing well, but will dev elop.
(MS)
REICHSRAT VON BUHL, Pfalz
Reichsrat von Buhl, Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 15.5 Drink
2009-13
Touch of f ennel and pineapple on nose; quite f resh, slightly green and earthy , may be lacking
f ull ripeness just a little though quite enjoy able.
13%
(MS)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 15.5
Drink 2009-13
Unusual but attractiv e whif f of whisky casks; quite spirity and alcoholic on palate, broad and
powerf ul.
13%
(MS)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16.5
Drink 2009-14
Quite pronounced exotic f ruit with more than a hint of pineapple; rich in f ruit, mainly mango,
play ing the tropical tune v ery well, Alsace bells beginning to ring.
13.5%
(MS)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16 Drink
2009-14
Once again the f aintest notion of whisky casks, hint of apricot, possibly signs of barrelf ermentation; apricot skin, mandarin f ruit well balanced by nicely integrated acidity ; f resh,
good but not great.
13%
(MS)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2009-15
Generous scent of dried apricots and nutmeg; there is ev en some coconut on the palate, but
all the exotic elements are bound in by a lov ely Riesling acidity . Texture v ery creamy ,
may be a little too much of a f latterer.
13%
(MS)
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
4 von 22
Reichsrat von Buhl, Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz
16 Drink 2009-14
Apples and pears on nose; a delicate mineral touch on the palate, v ery well integrated acidity ;
not the longest f inish, but v ery nice and approachable wine.
13%
(MS)
BŰRGERSPITAL ZUM HL GEIST, Franken
Bürgerspital zum hl Geist, Würzburger Stein “Hagemann” Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2007 Franken 16 Drink 2009-14
Restrained nose, but lov ely mineral and f linty aromas on palate; just a little ov er the top in
the residual sugar stakes; good length.
13.5%
(MS)
Bürgerspital zum hl Geist, Würzburger Stein-Harfe Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Franken 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Sour pineapple chunks; nice play of sweet and sour, quite simplistic, but pleasant.
13%
(MS)
Bürgerspital zum hl Geist, Randersacker Teufelskeller Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Tropical notes backed up by a successf ul combination of acidity and minerality without being
ov erpowering; nice wine, showing well already .
13.5%
(MS)
DR BŰRKLIN-WOLF, Pfalz
Dr Bürklin-Wolf, Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 15 Drink
2009-13
Apple and pear skin f ragrance; some tactile astringency and a bit thin and short on mid-palate.
(MS)
Dr Bürklin-Wolf, Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 15.5 Drink
2009-13
Earthy and f ull-bodied with the merest hint of spice; v ery Pf alz, but lacking a little in def inition
and length.
(MS)
Dr Bürklin-Wolf, Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16.5+ Drink
2010-15
Nose still v ery restrained, but on the palate there is great concentration, grapef ruit with f lint
and earth; v ery tactile with some astringency , has the edges a good Riesling needs f or
dev elopment; v ery good balance, one to lay down.
(MS)
Dr Bürklin-Wolf, Ruppertsberger Gaisböhl Monopol Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Big, round, almost bordering onto f labby ; another power wine, shows interesting hints of
spices and dried apricot, v ery v oluptuous ty pe of Riesling, Alsace connotations.
(MS)
CLEMENS BUSCH, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Clemens Busch, Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 MoselSaar-Ruwer 17.5 Drink 2010-15
Hint of botry tis or maceration, apple skin; massiv e concentration, almost an essence of
f lav ours, hard to dissect at this stage, v ery concentrated with great length, will take time to
unf old its undoubtedly great potential, f resh despite its power, perhaps not quite Riesling as
we know it f rom the Mosel
(MS)
Clemens Busch, Pündericher Marienburg “Rothenpfad” Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2007 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 16.5 Drink 2009-14
Very rich, v ery concentrated, just lacking a little f reshness f or perf ection, quite hot and
spicy , good length
(MS)
FŰRSTLICH CASTELL’SCHES DOMÄNEAMT, Franken
Fürstlich Castell’sches Domäneamt, Casteller Schlossberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2007 Franken 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Full-bodied, rich texture, pink grapef ruit and a hint of mandarin; just slightly missing out on
acidity and theref ore a little f lat.
13%
(MS)
A. CHRISTMANN, Pfalz
A. Christmann, Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16
Drink 2009-14
Broad, almost f at, quite weighty ; some tropical notes appealing to the powerf ul brigade, but
slightly lacking in elegance; I know somebody who would score this higher!
13%
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
5 von 22
(MS)
A. Christmann, Königsbacher Idig Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 15 Drink
2009-13
Cheese rind on nose, clears with air; hint of pineapple, touch v egetal on f inish.
13%
(MS)
A. Christmann, Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 15
Drink 2009-13
Pleasant, round, uncomplicated; lov ely texture, but acidity almost an af terthought, not quite
integrated.
13%
(MS)
DR. CRUSIUS, Nahe
Dr. Crusius, Niederhäuser Felsensteyer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Nahe 17 Drink
2009-14
Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, lime and pink grapef ruit, f irm structure with clear def inition
of acidity .
12.5%
(MS)
ERNST DAUTEL, Württemberg
Ernst Dautel, Bönnigheimer Sonnenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Württemberg
15.5 Drink 2009-12
Nice and sof t without aspirations of greatness; a pleasant wine drinking well already .
12.5%
(MS)
DIEFENHARDT’SCHES WEINGUT, Rheingau
Diefenhardt’sches Weingut, Martinsthaler Langenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007
Intriguing note of aniseed; on the palate minerally with undertones of f ennel; good
concentration, but quite elegant and not with the oiliness of some others, may be just a tad hot
on f inish.
13%
(MS)
SCHLOSSGUT DIEL, Nahe
Schlossgut Diel, Burg Layer Schlossberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Nahe 16.5
Drink 2009-14
A more opulent Nahe rendition with plenty of minerality , may be just a tiny bit f lat on f inish.
12.5%
(MS)
Schlossgut Diel, Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Nahe 18
Drink 2009-15
Big mouthf ul, quite dry with abundance of minerality , grapef ruit and lime, ev en almonds, but
managing to av oid the tropical trap, shading prev ious wine, plenty to come
13%
(MS)
Schlossgut Diel, Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Nahe 18.5 Drink
2009-16
There is ev en a touch of quinine on this outstanding rendition of minerality and f ine f ruit
reminiscent of oranges and grapef ruit. Great complexity and potential with spot-on acidity .
Rich but not ov erpowering; a wine to watch.
13%
(MS)
Schlossgut Diel, Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Nahe 17.5
Drink 2009-15
Round, sof t and v elv ety , dominated by f ruit aromas of apricot, grapef ruit and oranges bef ore
minerality takes ov er. May be just not quite as complex as Goldloch.
12.5%
(MS)
DOMDECHANT WERNER’SCHES WEINGUT, Rheingau
Domdechant Werner’sches Weingut, Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Erstes
Gewächs 2007, Rheingau 15.5 Drink 2009-12
Minerally and slightly peach scented; v elv ety texture, may be a little lightweight on mid palate.
12.5%
(MS)
Domdechant Werner’sches Weingut, Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Erstes
Gewächs 2007, Rheingau 15.5 Drink 2009-12
Some medicinal aromas; mint and malt, mineral backdrop, slightly bitter undertones.
13.5%
(MS)
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
6 von 22
DŐNNHOFF, Nahe
Dönnhoff, Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Nahe 18 Drink 2010-17
A little lactic at this stage; great concentration, slow burner, long dev elopment. Minerals and
lime backed up by f irm acidity , v ery closed but sheer density on palate promises much.
13.5%
(MS)
Dönnhoff, Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Nahe 19 Drink
2010-18
Though nose is still v ery reticent, the concentration on palate just unbeliev able. There is an
amazing density of f lav ours without f ruit or acidity gaining the upper hand. Minerality abounds
in a wine still taut but y et generous. Ev erlasting f inish.
13.5%
(MS)
Dönnhoff, Schloßböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Nahe 18
Drink 2010-17
Again nose still muted, but abundance of complex f lav ours unf olding, almost exotic with hints
of mango and orange; minerality is nev er neglected and acidity so well integrated, one just
doesn’t think about it.
13.5%
(MS)
DRAUTZ-ABLE, Württemberg
Drautz-Able, Heilbronner Stiftsberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Württemberg 15.5
Drink 2009-12
Straightf orward clean Riesling with all the components in the right place without reaching the
heights of excitement. Correct.
(MS)
HESSISCHE STAATSWEINGŰTER KLOSTER EBERBACH, Rheingau
Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach, Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling
Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau 17 Drink 2009-15
Deep y ellow; rich honey ed nose, ripe peaches and mandarin Napoleon on palate, stands out
of the crowd with power and opulence rather than elegance; a big mouthf ul of really ripe
Riesling.
12.5%
(MS)
EMRICH-SCHŐNLEBER, Nahe
Emrich-Schönleber, Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Nahe 17 Drink 2009-15
Rich, opulent and v ery creamy , almost lanolin texture; a v ery elegant and complex wine with
great promise.
12.5%
(MS)
Emrich-Schönleber, Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Nahe 17.5+
Drink 2009-16
Dif f erent sty le with f irmer structure; as f resh as a mountain spring with exquisite f ruit and
minerality still raw-edged. At this stage deceptiv ely understated, but complexity -bound.
13%
(MS)
AUGUST ESER, Rheingau
August Eser, Oestricher Lenchen “Rosengarten” Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007
Rheingau 17 Drink 2009-14
A big mouthf ul of traditional Rheingau, mineral and peach f lav ours mingle and expand on the
palate, good length, a lov ely , if not too complex wine.
13%
(MS)
FRIEDRICH FENDEL, Rheingau
Friedrich Fendel, Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007
Medicinal nose, herbal cough sweets; another burner, quite hot and slightly bitter with alcohol.
13.5%
(MS)
Friedrich Fendel, Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007
Rhgeingau 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Lemony and citric on nose, with an added touch of minerality lif ting the palate, medium
length, just a tad more interesting than prev ious of f ering.
13%
(MS)
JOACHIM FLICK, Rheingau
Joachim Flick, Wickerer Mönchsgewann Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau 15.5
Drink 2009-12
Honey and herb aromas; herbal, quite peppery and hot, not too long.
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
7 von 22
13%
(MS)
Joachim Flick, Wickerer Nonnberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau 15 Drink
2009-12
Slightly v egetal nose; also quite v egetal on palate with a hint of green pepper.
13%
(MS)
FREIHERR VON UND ZU FRANCKENSTEIN, Baden
Freiherr von und zu Franckenstein, Zell-Weierbacher Neugesetz Riesling Grosses
Gewächs 2007 Baden 15 Drink 2009-12
Quite sweet, ripe apple; uncomplicated and pleasant, not bothered by depth or length.
(MS)
STAATSWEINGUT FREIBURG & BLANKENHORNSBERG, Baden
Staatsweingut Freiburg & Blankenhornsberg, Blankenhornsberger Doktorgarten
Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden 14.5 Drink 2009-11
May be some mineral touches, but otherwise simple and quite f lat
13.5%
(MS)
Staatsweingut Freiburg & Blankenhornsberg, Freiburger Schlossberg Riesling
Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden 15.5 Drink 2009-12
Sour grapef ruit going right to the pith, adding an earthy quality ; sound wine, medium length.
12.5%
(MS)
RUDOLF FŰRST, Franken
Rudolf Fürst, Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Franken
16 Drink 2009-14
Y easty ambrosia rice pudding smell; nicely rounded on palate with acidity and astringency
kicking in, attractiv e steely f inish.
13.5%
(MS)
GRANS-FASSIAN, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Grans-Fassian, Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 16
Drink 2009-12
Hint of honey and a whif f of nutmeg; rich on palate, if any thing lacking acidity a little, v ery
oily texture, alcohol coming through.
12.5%
(MS)
K.F. GROEBE, Rheinhessen
K.F. Groebe, Westhofener Aulerde Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Rheinhessen13.5
Drink –
Smell of adhesiv e, touch v olatile; on palate glue and ov erripe f ruit, pity as there seems to be
good concentration.
13.5%
(MS)
K.F. Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Rheinhessen
15.5 Drink 2009-13
Quite sweet, but plenty of concentration, f ruit could hav e done with a bit more backbone f or
balance, decent f inish, complexity possibly to come.
13.5%
(MS)
GUTZLER, Rheinhessen
Gutzler, Wormser Liebfrauenstift Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Sweet, touch of pineapple, but at the same time a little cabbagey . Dif f erent components not
that well integrated, a dif f icult wine. Will time tell?
13%
(MS)
KARL HAIDLE, Württemberg
Karl Haidle, Stettener Pulvermächer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Württemberg 15
Drink 2009-12
Notes of herbs and straw; lightweight and uncomplicated; lacking f ruit and depth.
(MS)
PRINZ VON HESSEN, Rheingau
Prinz von Hessen, Winkler Jesuitengarten Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau 15
Drink 2009-12
Peardrops on nose, v ery underdev eloped at this stage, hard to see any complexity emerging,
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
8 von 22
pleasant and simple.
(MS)
FREIHERR HEYL ZU HERRNSHEIM, Rheinhessen
Freiherr Heyl zu Herrnsheim, Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2007 Rheinhessen 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Clean, slightly f umy nose with a hint of apple; high acidity , really crisp, almost slightly unripe
f ruit, astringent f inish.
12%
(MS)
Freiherr Heyl zu Herrnsheim, Niersteiner Brudersberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Slightly cheesy , lactic nose; starts of f oily but acidity emerges, f resh grapef ruit. Quite a
f inish, a dev eloper.
13%
(MS)
HEYMANN-LŐWENSTEIN, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Heymann-Löwenstein, Winninger Uhlen “Laubach” Riesling 2007 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
16.5 Drink 2009-14
Nose still quite dumb, almost a touch of marzipan; quite rich, spicy , with a hint of bitterness,
has a cutting edge.
13%
(MS)
Heymann-Löwenstein, Winninger Uhlen “Blaufüßer Lay” Riesling 2007 MoselSaar-Ruwer 16 Drink 2009-13
Nose not v ery attractiv e at this stage, but not f aulty ; v elv ety and smooth on palate with well
integrated acidity , touch of apple kernel.
12.5%
(MS)
Heymann-Löwenstein, Winninger Röttgen Riesling 2007 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 15.5 Drink
2009-13
Camphor! (Spontaneous f ermentation?). Quite hot, strangely medicinal f lav our, slightly
acquired taste.
12.5%
(MS)
STAATLICHER HOFKELLER WŰRZBURG, Franken
Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg, Würzburger Stein Riesling 2007 Grosses Gewächs
Honey and gorse on nose; creamy texture, some herbal and mineral elements; quite long,
potential.
12.5%
(MS)
Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg, Würzburger Innere Leiste Riesling 2007 Grosses
Gewächs Franken 15 Drink 2009-12
Quite f labby , a little spirity , some interesting earthy notes; not v ery long.
12.5%
(MS)
Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg, Randersacker Pfülben Riesling 2007 Grosses Gewächs
Franken 15 Drink 2009-12
Simple, lightweight, neither the depth or the length to be “gross”.
12.5%
(MS)
SCHLOSSGUT HOHENBEILSTEIN, Württemberg
Schloßgut Hohenbeilstein, Hohenbeilsteiner Schlosswengert Riesling Grosses
Gewächs 2007 Württemberg 15 Drink 2009-12
Some odd green notes; v ery green, almost medicinal on the palate, camphor, nettles; still
correct.
13.5%
(MS)
SCHLOSS JOHANNISBERG, Rheingau
Schloß Johannisberg, Schloß Johannisberger Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007
Touch of peardrops, burns a little, quite simplistic, just doesn’t hit the spot.
13%
(MS)
TONI JOST – HAHNENHOF, Mittelrhein
Toni Jost – Hahnenhof, Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Mittelrhein
14.5 Drink 2009-12
Faint; quite hot, lacking f reshness, burning f inish.
(MS)
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
9 von 22
JULIUSSPITAL WŰRZBURG, Franken
Juliusspital Würzburg, Würzburger Stein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Franken 15.5
Drink 2009-13
Apply nose; starts of f with some nice f ruit, a little lightweight on mid-palate, though quite a
lasting f inish.
13%
(MS)
Juliusspital Würzburg, Randersacker Pfülben Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Franken
15.5 Drink 2009-13
Understated on nose; crisp acidity , pear aromas; slightly earthy ; middling.
13%
(MS)
JAKOB JUNG, Rheingau
Jakob Jung, Erbacher Hohenrain Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau 16 Drink
2009-14
Pronounced aniseed aromas, cough sweets; stone f ruit, may be a little one-dimensional.
(MS)
Jakob Jung, Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau 15.5 Drink
2009-14
Stone f ruit, v ery tactile, some astringency , almost a chewy wine.
(MS)
Jakob Jung, Erbacher Siegelsberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau 16 Drink
2009-14
Fairly f aint nose; quite broad on palate, but dev eloping a minerally edge, good lev el of
acidity .
(MS)
GRAF VON KANITZ, Rheingau
Graf von Kanitz, Lorcher Pfaffenwies Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau
15 Drink 2009-12
Very ripe grapef ruit and some mineral notes, f inishes of f quite hot, alcohol taking ov er.
Promising start, disappointing f inish.
14%
(MS)
Graf von Kanitz, Lorcher Kapellenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau 15
Drink 2009-12
First snif f of sulphur of the day , making me realise that this issue is well under control now;
there’s borderline residual sugar here.
13.5%
(MS)
KELLER, Rheinhessen
Keller, Westhofener Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Rheinhessen 19 Drink
2009-18
Nose dominated by spontaneous f ermentation aromas at this early stage, but on the palate
the sheer power and concentration banish all doubts. Can a wine hav e too much
concentration? Finesse par excellence, a thinking wine, not a drinking wine.
13.5%
(MS)
REICHSGRAF VON KESSELSTATT, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 15.5 Drink 2009-12
Hint of kernel; rich texture, quite pronounced acidity lif ts wine, may be a touch too oily , a little
apricot.
11.5%
(MS)
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Scharzhofberger Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 MoselSaar-Ruwer 15.5 Drink 2009-12
quite y ellow; hint of ripe apple, rich grapef ruit on palate, oily texture, f air acidity .
12.5%
(MS)
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 MoselSaar-Ruwer 16 Drink 2009-13
Fresh apply f ragrance, rich texture, almost tactile, f resh apple (skin), tart grapef ruit.
12%
(MS)
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 15.5 Drink 2009-12
Smell of pear and herbs; pear skin on palate, rich oily texture, f air alcohol, good length.
12.5%
(MS)
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Josephshöfer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 MoselSaar-Ruwer 16.5 Drink 2009-14
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
10 von 22
Attractiv e f resh f ragrance of green apples, apple and grapef ruit, hint of herbs (nutmeg), good
lev el of acidity , not appearing as oily as other Kesselstatt wines, good length.
12.5%
(MS)
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 15 Drink 2009-12
Nose not entirely conv incing, on palate grapef ruit pith and pear skin, slightly dominated by
alcohol, not totally f resh.
12%
(MS)
KNIPSER, Pfalz
Knipser, Dirmsteiner Mandelpfad “Himmelsrech” Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz
17.5 Drink 2009-15
Fragrance of ripe apples and pears; broad, almost f at, in my book a bit of a Burgundy
look-a-like, ev en a touch earthy in the nicest possible way . Acidity kicks in to banish any
thoughts of f labbiness; excellent length.
(MS)
Knipser, Laumersheimer Mandelberg “Steinbuckel” Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Spicy and earthy aromas; quite broad, remarkably f linty , again Burgundian sty le, like a
generous Chablis, connotations of y ellow stone-f ruit, weighty without excess, promising
complexity . May be not Riesling as we (in the UK) know it, but a great wine.
(MS)
BARON ZU KNYPHAUSEN, Rheingau
Baron zu Knyphausen, Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau
16.5 Drink 2009-14
Sof t, nicely rounded on nose; quite broad, almost f at, but f inishing of f on a tactile minerally
edge.
(MS)
Baron zu Knyphausen, Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007
Blancmange, ambrosia rice pudding; oily texture, some aniseed aromas, quite tactile, not v ery
long.
(MS)
KRUGER-RUMPF, Nahe
Kruger-Rumpf, Münster-Sarmsheimer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Nahe 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Touch of pineapple, light, f resh and racy , but quite lightweight and not v ery long.
13.5%
(MS)
Kruger-Rumpf, Münster-Sarmsheimer Pittersberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Nahe
16 Drink 2009-13
Liv ely , with almost piercing acidity f or lov ers of the f resh, lighter Riesling sty le, ev en a touch
of f izz, really f resh grapef ruit.
13%
(MS)
KŰHLING-GILLOT, Rheinhessen
Kühling-Gillot, Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Sweet scent, hint of honey , also still a touch y easty ; rich on palate with melon and guav a
aromas, but well balanced by acidity ; f air f inish
13.5%
(MS)
Kühling-Gillot, Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Rheinhessen 15
Drink 2009-13
A little medicinal, touch of camphor, sponti; associations of camphor on palate, hint of
aniseed, peppery f inish.
13.5%
(MS)
Kühling-Gillot, Niersteiner Őlberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Rheinhessen 16
Drink 2009-13
Touch of the tropical, mango on the nose, carries on on the palate, may be just a little f lat on
the f inish, turning slightly v egetal, slightest hint of cinnamon on f inish adds interest.
13.5%
(MS)
Kühling-Gillot, Oppenheimer Sackträger Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Rheinhessen
15 Drink 2009-13
Fermentation nose of ambrosia rice pudding; quite sweet with hints of aniseed and pear skin,
may be just a tad f labby .
13.5%
(MS)
PHILIPP KUHN, Pfalz
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
11 von 22
Philipp Kuhn, Laumersheimer Mandelberg “Steinbuckel” Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2007 Pfalz 17 Drink 2009-15
Sponti sulphurous to begin with, cleans up its act f ast with some air, exotic f ruit coming
through; creamy palate with guav a and ripe melon f lav ours, powerf ul, but well reined in by
acidity ; excellent balance and length.
13.5%
(MS)
Philipp Kuhn, Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 17
Drink 2009-15
Very textural wine with spice adding some interest; a touch of pepper on f inish, lingers, almost
a hint of Viognier à la Condrieu.
13.5%
(MS)
Philipp Kuhn, Großkarlbacher Burgweg “Im großen Garten” Riesling Grosses
Sweet apple and mango nose; v ery creamy , but just when y ou start to suspect f labbiness
Kuhn’s wines are alway s sav ed by an emerging acidity . This is possibly his f reshest of f ering
and f inishes of f with a great array of f lav ours.
13.5%
(MS)
FRANZ KŰNSTLER, Rheingau
Franz Künstler, Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau 16
Drink 2009-13
Quite restrained f lowery nose; rich y ellow plum aromas, touch minerally , nicely def ined
acidity giv es an edge.
(MS)
ANDREAS LAIBLE, Baden
Andreas Laible, Durbacher Plauelrain Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden 15
2009-12
Herbs and straw on nose; well-rounded, pleasant, just a tad f lat; lacking any great interest or
length.
13%
(MS)
HANS LANG, Rheingau
Hans Lang, Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau 16.5
Drink 2009-13
Peach, f ennel and minerals; good balance of acidity and f ruit, quite elegant, medium length.
12.5%
(MS)
LANGWERTH VON SIMMERN, Rheingau
Langwerth von Simmern, Hattenheimer Mannberg Riesling Ertstes Gewächs 2007
Peach and pineapple; acidity prov iding nice balance f or ov ert f ruit f lav our, uncomplicated,
mid-length.
13.5%
(MS)
LANIUS-KNAB, Mittelrhein
Lanius-Knab, Engelhöller Bernstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Mittelrhein 15
Drink 2009-12
A little musty ; pear skin and nut kernel, may be a hint of pineapple, but lacking f reshness.
13.5%
(MS)
Lanius-Knab, Oberweseler Oelsberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Mittelrhein 14
Drink 2009-11
Dry cleaning, brush cleaner, slightly chemical; apple core and skin, lacking f reshness, quite
dull.
13.5%
(MS)
DR. LOOSEN, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Dr. Loosen, Űrziger Würzgarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
16.5 Drink 2009-14
Pale straw, nose really f resh, apricot and spice; loaded with spice on palate, f lav ours keep
expanding, acidity giv es the necessary lif t, v ery long and tactile f inish
12.5%
(MS)
Dr. Loosen, Erdener Treppchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 16
Drink 2009-14
Pale with greenish tinge; nutmeg sprinkled on grapef ruit, herbal f inish, interestingly dif f erent
12.5%
(MS)
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
12 von 22
FŰRST LŐWENSTEIN, Franken
Fürst Löwenstein, Homburger Kallmuth Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Franken 15.5
Drink 2009-13
Round, creamy , earthy , may be f inishing just a little on the f lat side.
12.5%
(MS)
LŰTZKENDORF, Saale-Unstrut
Lützkendorf, Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Saale-Unstrut 15
Drink 2009-12
Apply and earthy , on the palate earthy aromas expand a little too much; on the leaner side.
(MS)
MESSMER, Pfalz
Messmer, Weyherer Michelsberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16
Drink 2009-14
Gentle aromas of apple and pear; creamy but not too opulent texture, nice balance of f ruit
and acidity with reasonable length.
(MS)
Messmer, Burrweiler Schäwer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 15 Drink 2009-13
Sweet and sour grapef ruit aromas; sound without any f rills, slightly tactile f inish.
(MS)
GEORG MOSBACHER, Pfalz
Georg Mosbacher, Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 15.5 Drink
2009-13
Intriguing and idiosy ncratic nose of roasted cof f ee beans; f ortunately this does not come
through on the palate, touch earthy , hints of spices and f ruit, but not enough to lif t it into
something special.
13%
(MS)
Georg Mosbacher, Forster Freundstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 15.5
Drink 2009-13
Uncomplicated apply nose, a little muted; a little lightweight and not too long, but nice and
f resh, a v ery pleasant early dev eloper.
13%
(MS)
Georg Mosbacher, Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 15.5 Drink
2009-14
A little earthy and spirity ; touch hot, though good lev el of acidity prov ides balance, will
improv e.
13%
(MS)
Georg Mosbacher, Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16
Drink 2009-13
Touch of pineapple on nose, f resh and sweet pineapple chunks on palate; may be a little
simplistic, f inishes of f a little on the spirity side.
13%
(MS)
GEORG MŰLLER STIFTUNG, Rheingau
Georg Müller Stiftung, Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2007
Cough candy ; some herbal notes, but trails of f f ast, no hidden depths.
(MS)
MATTHIAS MŰLLER, Mittelrhein
Matthias Müller, Bopparder Hamm Mandelstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Mittelrhein 15 Drink 2009-11
Very lactic with pineapple aromas; f resh pineapple chunks, f air acidity , superf icially
attractiv e.
13%
(MS)
MŰLLER-CATOIR, Pfalz
Müller-Catoir, Haardter Bürgergarten “Breumel in den Mauern” Riesling Grosses
Nose subdued, but nice taste of f ruit with generous acidity ; grapef ruit f lav our with an added
mineral touch.
14%
(MS)
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
13 von 22
MŰNZBERG, Pfalz
Münzberg, Godramsteiner “Schlangenpfiff” Münzberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Starting of f sof tly , but dev eloping quite a bit of a bite, f air acidity , some minerally tones,
room f or dev elopment.
13.5%
(MS)
SCHLOSS NEUWEIER, Baden
Schloss Neuweier, Neuweier “Mauer-Wein” Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden 16
Drink 2009-13
Fresh, apply with some liv ely spritz and crisp acidity , racy Riesling without the power of big
alcohol, some relief , ev en if it has no aspirations of greatness.
12.5%
(MS)
Schloss Neuweier, Neuweier “Das goldenen Loch “ Mauerberg Riesling Grosses
Gewächs 2007 Baden 15.5 Drink 2009-13
One of the sweeter of f erings, but with well balanced crisp acidity ; light and pleasant.
12.5%
(MS)
GUTSVERWALTUNG NIEDERHAUSEN-SCHLOSSBŐCKELHEIM, Nahe
Gutsverwaltung Niederhausen-Schlossböckelheim, Niederhäuser Steinberg Riesling
Grosses Gewächs 2007 Nahe 15 Drink 2009-12
Pleasant apply aromas, a little f lat, lacking length.
12.5%
(MS)
Gutsverwaltung Niederhausen-Schlossböckelheim, Niederhäuser Kerz Riesling
Grosses Gewächs 2007 Nahe 15.5 Drink 2009-12
A little more liv ely ; good balance of grapef ruit and acidity , pleasant and early -drinking.
12.5%
(MS)
Gutsverwaltung Niederhausen-Schlossböckelheim, Niederhäuser Hermannsberg
Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Nahe 16 Drink 2009-13
Nice minerality , just a little simplistic af ter Doennhof f , but nev ertheless a good balance of
f ruit, acidity and minerality with reasonable f inish.
12.5%
(MS)
STAATLICHE WEINBAUDOMÄNE OPPENHEIM, Rheinhessen
Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Oppenheim, Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Grosses
Gewächs 2007 Rheinhessen 15 Drink 2009-13
Quite restrained nose with an attractiv e clean and steely Riesling f ragrance; disappointingly
f lat on palate, some apple, but the supermarket kind.
13%
(MS)
VON OTHEGRAVEN, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
von Othegraven, Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 MoselSaar-Ruwer 14.5 Drink 2009-11
deep y ellow, almost gold; slightly musty nose, same on taste, pear peel, not entirely f resh
(MS)
PAWIS, Saale-Unstrut
Pawis, Freyburger Edelacker Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Saale-Unstrut 16 Drink
2009-13
Underdev eloped nose; herbal aromas on palate, quite tactile, steely f inish, f air length.
(MS)
PFEFFINGEN – FUHRMANN-EYMAEL, Pfalz
Pfeffingen – Fuhrmann-Eymael, Ungsteiner Weilberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007
Understated apply nose; v ery crisp on the palate with tactile acidity ; v ery recognisable as
Riesling, may be just a little under-ripe; quite dry .
13.5%
(MS)
Pfeffingen – Fuhrmann-Eymael, Ungsteiner Herrenberg “Mardelskopf” Riesling
Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16 Drink 2009-14
Very f resh apply nose; quite earthy and crisp, but with some creaminess, heading more
towards the classic Riesling image, but dry ; nice length.
13.5%
(MS)
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
14 von 22
S.A. PRŰM, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
S.A. Prüm, Graacher Domprobst Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 16
Drink 2009-13
Deep y ellow, almost gold; stone f ruit, slightly minerally nose, expands on palate. Mirabelle
aromas with a hint of bitterness.
(MS)
BURG RAVENSBURG, Baden
Burg Rav ensburg, Sulzfelder Burg Rav ensburg Husarenkappe Riesling Grosses
Gew ächs 2007 Baden 15.5 Drink 2009-12
Slightly tropical nose; nice play of acidity and fruit, just a hint of herbaceousness.
13%
(MS)
RATZENBERGER, Mittelrhein
Ratzenberger, Steeger St Jost Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Mittelrhein 14.5
Drink 2009-11
Quite faint and neutral, lacking concentration; a little dilute, merest hint of apple,
short.
13%
(MS)
Ratzenberger, Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Mittelrhein 15.5 Drink 2009-12
Faint; quite full on palate, ripe apple, hint of spice, better length than St Jost.
13.5%
(MS)
ŐKONOMIERAT REBHOLZ, Pfalz
Őkonomierat Rebholz, Siebeldinger Im Sonnenschein “Ganshorn”Riesling
Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2009-14
Exotic fruit, pineapple; great minerality, very tactile, fruit not as overtly tropical on
palate as on nose, more restrained, quite elegant.
(MS)
Őkonomierat Rebholz, Birkw eiler Kastanienbusch Riesling Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Pfalz 16 Drink 2009-13
Nose rather muted; nice grip of acidity, fresh, a touch minerally though not overly
complex.
(MS)
SCHLOSS REINHARTSHAUSEN, Rheingau
Schloss Reinhartshausen, Erbacher Schlossberg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Rheingau 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Cheesy, lactic nose; bit of pineapple, creamy texture, a little lightweight and simpl e.
(MS)
Schloss Reinhartshausen, Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Grosses Gew ächs
Herbal sweet, fennel; pronounced herbal aromas on palate, some mineral touches,
tactile, a bit light on the finish.
(MS)
BALTHASAR RESS, Rheingau
Balthasar Ress, Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Erstes Gew ächs 2007
Very ripe grapefruit edging towards mandarin with a slightly minerally tang, does
linger without being overpowered by alcohol.
12.5%
(MS)
VILLA SACHSEN, Rheinhessen
Villa Sachsen, Binger Kirchberg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Rheinhessen
12 Drink ??
Strange cabbagey nose, not clean, faulty.
(MS)
Villa Sachsen, Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Rheinhessen 13 Drink ??
Nose rather muted, unpleasant vegetal flavour, should not be here.
(MS)
PRINZ ZU SALM-DALBERG, Nahe
Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg, Wallhäuser Johannisberg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Nahe 16 Drink 2009-13
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
15 von 22
Creamy, almondy, well integrated acidity, nicely balanced wine if a little light,
medium length.
(MS)
Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg, Roxheimer Berg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Nahe
15.5 Drink 2009-13
Quite round and creamy, maybe a little lightweight on fruit, acidity and minerality
save the day, though finishes on the short side.
(MS)
SALWEY, Baden
Salw ey, Glottertaler Eichberg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Baden 16 Drink
2009-13
Full bodied style with an earthy quality backed up by a flinty note; has some length.
12.5%
(MS)
HORST SAUER, Franken
Horst Sauer, Escherndorfer Lump Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Franken 17
2009-14
Wine with a near perfect balance of minerality, acidity, fruit and alcohol; just lacking
that final complexity, but a great drink if you want to forget about the theory of
relativity.
13.5%
(MS)
SCHÄFER-FRŐHLICH, Nahe
Schäfer-Fröhlich, Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Nahe 16.5 Drink 2009-14
Orange and mandarin fruit, even a hint of lime, but firm rather than exotic. Quite
elegant and rich in flavour.
13%
(MS)
Schäfer-Fröhlich, Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Nahe 17 Drink 2009-15
Nose still in its infancy, but a really tight minerality encompasses elements of fine
fruit, alcohol and body play perfect supporting role.
13%
(MS)
Schäfer-Fröhlich, Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Nahe 17.5 Drink 2009-16
With this effort Tim Fröhlich joins the Nahe Masters! The nose is showing real
promise and on the palate the wine is firm, showing great structure and complexity.
A sound mineral backbone does not overpower the notes of yellow stone fruit.
13%
(MS)
Schäfer-Fröhlich, Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Nahe
17.5
Drink 2009-15
This rendition combines opulence of almost exotic fruit with a taut minerality;
possibly an earlier developer this is very enjoyable already, but promising greater
things to come; a more open style of wine with tremendous length.
13%
(MS)
SCHMITT’S KINDER, Franken
Schmitt’s Kinder, Randersacker Pfülben Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Franken
16 Drink 2009-14
Broad style, rich texture; flavours of apple and ripe grapefruit emerging; good length
and firm structure.
13%
(MS)
SCHNAITMANN, Württemberg
Schnaitmann, Uhlbacher Götzenberg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Württemberg 15 Drink 2009-12
Light sweet and sour; simple and honest, but just no length or depth.
(MS)
SCHLOSS SCHŐNBORN, Rheingau
Schloss Schönborn, Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Erstes Gew ächs 2007
Light fragrance of honey and peaches; dried apricot and nutmeg, rich texture, early
developer
13.5%
(MS)
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
16 von 22
Schloss Schönborn, Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Erstes Gew ächs 2007
Rheingau
17 Drink 2009-14
Some exciting mineral, stone fruit touches; earthy but clean, racy Riesling as
opposed to some of the oilier offerings, nice long finish with some interest.
13.5%
(MS)
Schloss Schönborn, Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Erstes Gew ächs 2007
Pineapple on nose, but more interesting minerally notes on palate, though maybe a
bit on the sweet side.
13.5%
(MS)
Schloss Schönborn, Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Erstes Gew ächs
Still quite yeasty; lively wine, creamy with a bit of spritz and racy acidity, stylish,
medium length.
13.5%
(MS)
ZUR SCHWANE, Franken
Zur Schw ane, Escherndorfer Lump Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Franken
15.5 Drink 2009-13
Taste of apple and grapefruit with a touch of peel and pith; nothing elaborate, fair
finish.
(MS)
Zur Schw ane, Volkacher Ratsherr Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Franken
15.5 Drink 2009-13
Pear and peardrops, a hint of pineapple: juicy acidity, but lacking a little in depth
and finish.
(MS)
SIEGRIST, Pfalz
Siegrist, Leinsw eiler Sonnenberg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Pfalz 15.5
Drink 2009-13
Lively, almost fizzy apple, a bit simplistic, crisp finish, lightweight.
(MS)
SCHLOSS SOMMERHAUSEN, Franken
Schloss Sommerhausen, Sommerhäuser Steinbach Riesling Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Franken 16.5 Drink 2009-14
Deceptively muted nose; really opens up on palate, very tropical and honeyed, for
lovers of the more exotic style, Alsace calling.
14%
(MS)
JOSEF SPREITZER, Rheingau
Josef Spreitzer, Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Erstes Gew ächs 2007
Unusual green note of camphor (sponti?); full-bodied, slightly bruised apple
flavours, fair amount of oxygenation, idiosyncratic and quite controversial, certainl y
won’t be to everybody’s taste. Could just do with a hint of more freshness for my
liking, but a wine with character.
(MS)
Josef Spreitzer, Oestricher Lenchen “Rosengarten” Riesling Erstes Gew ächs
There can be no doubt about the concentration, but again a slightly odd note of
camphor, probably sponti. Judging on compactness and length of flavour this is a
serious effort.
(MS)
WAGNER-STEMPEL, Rheinhessen
Wagner-Stempel, Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Touch soapy at this stage, borderline residual sugar, just a little too sweet to get
complexity going.
13%
(MS)
Wagner-Stempel, Siefersheimer Höllberg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Different class from Heerkretz, great concentration of aromas, firm backbone,
minerals, lime and orange without being too sweet, excellent structure.
13.5%
(MS)
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
17 von 22
STIGLER, Baden
Stigler, Ihringer Winklerberg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Baden 16.5 Drink
2009-14
Touch of caraway or cumin adds interest; quite minerally too with a sound edge of
acidity; Baden redemption!
12.5%
(MS)
DR. WEHRHEIM, Pfalz
Dr. Wehrheim, Birkw eiler Kastanienbusch Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Earthy, full-bodied and dry, easily underestimated until long finish proves quality;
will take time, a bit rough around the edges. There was also a musty touch, maybe
bad cork. Score reflects wine without fault.
13.5%
(MS)
Dr. Wehrheim, Birkw eiler Kastanienbusch “Köppel” Riesling Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2009-14
Pineapple chunks; juicy acidity, quite dry and full bodied, chewy and with good
length.
13.5%
(MS)
ROBERT WEIL, Rheingau
Robert Weil, Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Erstes Gew ächs 2007 Rheingau
18+ Drink 2009-15
Fragrance of yellow fruit, quince and Mirabelle; very minerally, almost salty flavour,
great complexity and concentration, very long, great potential.
13.5%
(MS)
STAATSWEINGUT WEINSBERG, Württemberg
Staatsw eingut Weinsberg, Abstädter Burg Wildeck Riesling Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Württemberg 15 Drink 2009-12
Slightly herbal nose; a little flat and quite short.
13%
(MS)
HANS WIRSCHING, Franken
Hans Wirsching, Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Sweet and sour; some minerality; elegant but just a little lightweight.
13.5%
(MS)
Hans Wirsching, Iphöfer Kronsberg Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Franken 15
Drink 2009-13
Again quite sweet and sour; pleasant wine, but just lacking an edge, a little on the
flat side.
13.5%
(MS)
WITTMANN, Rheinhessen
Wittmann, Westhofener Aulerde Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Rheinhessen
17 Drink 2009-14
Well developed nose already, peaches and cream, very much Rheinhessen if such
an oversimplification maybe allowed, also notes of sweet exotic fruit, guava,
mango, just slightly lacking in firmness.
13%
(MS)
Wittmann, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Sweet fruit, initial creaminess is supported by a firm mineral structure, on the fini sh
the fruit, including peaches, pear and grapefruit shine through again. Long and
powerful finish.
13%
(MS)
Wittmann, Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Rheinhessen 18+ Drink 2009-2016
A new site to me, but an utterly convincing effort. The creaminess of the previous
Wittmann wines giving way to a really firm rendition, almost austere if it wasn’t for
the generous fruit. Perfect balance of pronounced acidity, opulent fruit and salty
minerality. Very long finish and great complexity.
13%
(MS)
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
18 von 22
Wittmann, Westhofener Morstein Riesling Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Rheinhessen
17 Drink 2009-14
A little too sweet for my liking, but well saved by pronounced minerality and firm
structure. Not necessarily a food wine. Nevertheless impressive, very concentrated
with good length.
13%
(MS)
SILVANER
BICKEL-STUMPF, Franken
Bickel-Stumpf, Frickenhäuser Kapellenhof “Mönchshof” Silv aner Grosses
Gew ächs 2007 Franken 16.5 Drink 2009-13
Lovely nose of herbs; herbal aromas come right through on the palate; quite rich
and spicy, excellent typicity.
(MS)
BŰRGERSPITAL ZUM HEILIGEN GEIST, Franken
Bürgerspital zum Heiligen Geist, Würzburger Stein Silv aner Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Franken 13
Earthy to the point of musty, not entirely clean; maybe faulty, if not it’s entirely
underwhelming.
FŰRSTLICH CASTELL’SCHES DOMÄNEAMT, Franken
Fürstlich Castell’sches Domäneamt, Casteller Schlossberg Silv aner Grosses
Gew ächs 2007 Franken 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Mellow, rich texture; earthy, could do with just a bit of acidity to give it a little more
freshness.
13%
(MS)
STAATLICHER HOFKELLER WŰRZBURG, Franken
Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg, Würzburger Stein Silv aner Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Franken 15.5 Drink 2009-12
Broad, some typical earthy notes; a little alcoholic, but some nice typicity.
13%
(MS)
Juliusspital Würzburg, Würzburger Stein Silv aner Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Quite broad and fat, but interesting notes of fennel and caraway, a little acidity
would not have come amiss.
13%
(MS)
Juliusspital Würzburg, Escherndorfer Lump Silv aner Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Bordering onto the flabby; rich, powerful, alcohol beginning to overpower the
mineral and earthy aromas.
13%
(MS)
Juliusspital Würzburg, Iphöfer Julius-Echterberg Silv aner Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Franken 15.5 Drink 2009-12
Very rich texture, notes of fennel and aniseed, quite broad, slightly bitter finish,
alcohol showing.
13.5%
(MS)
FŰRST LŐWENSTEIN, Franken
Fürst Löw enstein, Homburger Kallmuth Silv aner Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Very ripe fruit, underscored by some nice minerality, earthy edge and vegetal notes.
Textbook Silvaner, great typicity and definite notes of terroir.
12.5%
(MS)
LŰTZKENDORF, Saale-Unstrut
Lützkendorf, Karsdorfer Gräte Silv aner Grossess Gew ächs 2007 Saale-Unstrut
14.5 Drink 2009-11
Slightly overripe fruit; quite fat, a little earthy with citric acidity, not convinci ng.
(MS)
HORST SAUER, Franken
Horst Sauer, Escherndorfer Lump Silv aner Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Franken 17
Drink 2009-14
Nose quite closed, but wine opens up on palate with herb garden and mineral
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
19 von 22
flavours; keeps expanding, more spice than fruit as to be expected of Silvaner,
excellent finish.
(MS)
SCHMITT’S KINDER, Franken
Schmitt’s Kinder, Randersacker Pfülben Silv aner Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Franken 16.5+ Drink 2009-14
Fresh and earthy, with that long-awaited mineral touch, nice edge, salt of the earth;
has the acidity some of the others are lacking; fresh as it should be.
13%
(MS)
ZUR SCHWANE, Franken
Zur Schw ane, Volkacher Ratsherr Silv aner Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Franken 15
Drink 2009-12
Lactic nose, a little cheesy; on palate cheese rind with some tropical notes, hint of
fennel; a little one-dimensional.
(MS)
SCHLOSS SOMMERHAUSEN, Franken
Schloss Sommerhausen, Sommerhäuser Steinbach Silv aner Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Franken 16 Drink 2009-12
Broad style with a little caraway; full-bodied, powerful, spice makes up for lack of
acidity.
13.5%
(MS)
WELTNER, Franken
Weltner, Rödelseer Küchenmeister Silv aner Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Franken 16
Drink 2009-13
Very broad with some almost salty notes; herbal aromas coming through, keep
growing; easily underestimated in a fast tasting; just a tiny bit on the flabby side.
13%
(MS)
HANS WIRSCHING, Franken
Hans Wirsching, Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Silv aner Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Pronounced flavour of aniseed, quite big and powerful without overwhelming the
inherent Silvaner characteristics.
13.5%
(MS)
Hans Wirsching, Iphöfer Kronsberg Silv aner Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Franken
15.5
Drink 2009-13
Another alcohol monster; pity, because the bitterness spoils the typicity expressed by
herbal, spicy and earthy notes. Needs restraint.
13.5%
(MS)
WEISSER BURGUNDER
BERCHER, Baden
Bercher, Burkheimer Feuerberg Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Baden 16.5 Drink 2009-15
For once the use of wood has been mastered; subtle and with substance this wine
can become a classic; already mellow, but quite fresh with it, ripe melon flavour.
14%
(MS)
BERGDOLT-ST. LAMPRECHT, Pfalz
Bergdolt St Lamprecht, Kirrw eiler Mandelberg Weisser Burgunder Grosses
Gew ächs 2007 Pfalz 16 Drink 2009-13
Big alcohol kicks in, too powerful; massive wine that lacks finesse, but those who li ke
their wines big will like this monster.
13.5%
(MS)
BERNHART, Pfalz
Bernhart, Schw eigener Sonnenberg “Rädling” Weisser Burgunder Grosses
Gew ächs 2007 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2009-14
Very ripe fruit and smoked cheese; interesting and unusual, but also big and
powerful, mineral structure keeps grip on the finish.
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
20 von 22
14%
(MS)
BŰRGERSPITAL ZUM HEILIGEN GEIST, Franken
Bürgerspital zum Heiligen Geist, Würzburger Stein Weisser Burgunder Grosses
Gew ächs 2007 Franken 15 Drink 2010-13
Mellow starter, but then again masses of oak taking over; subtlety is out of the
window, power all round.
14%
(MS)
DR. HEGER, Baden
Dr. Heger, Ihringer Winklerberg Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Big and powerful, no noticeable wood; maybe a little on the bland side though
some mineral notes come through; just a touch alcohol-driven.
13.5%
(MS)
Juliusspital Würzburg, Volkacher Karthäuser Weisser Burgunder Grosses
Gew ächs 2007 Franken 16 Drink 2009-13
Comes as a bit of a relief after some of the wood-packers. Shows ripe, almost exotic
fruit, a hint of smokiness from a more moderate use of oak; even quite fresh with a
smidgeon of acidity.
13.5%
(MS)
PHILIPP KUHN, Pfalz
Philipp Kuhn, Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Weisser Burgunder Grosses
Gew ächs 2007 Pfalz 17.5 Drink 2009-15
Really vibrant, a hint of oak, possibly barrel-fermented, very sweet fruit with plenty of
acidity, excellent balance, when will Alsace learn that Pinot Blanc can rock and
roll?
13.5%
(MS)
MESSMER, Pfalz
Meßmer, Burrw eiler “Im goldenen Jost” Schlossgarten Weisser Burgunder
Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Pfalz 15 Drink 2009-12
Residual sugar borderline, quite round and powerful, easier to taste than to drink in
my estimation.
(MS)
MŰNZBERG, Pfalz
Münzberg, Godramsteiner “Schlangenpfiff” Münzberg Weisser Burgunder
Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Pfalz 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Ripe to overripe fruit, almost cloyingly sweet; defeats the notion of Grosse Gewächse
being dry. Its strength is minerality, its shortcoming the lack of acidity, an opinion
splitter rather than a fence sitter.
14%
(MS)
PAWIS, Saale-Unstrut
Paw is, Freyburger Edelacker Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Saale-Unstrut 15 Drink 2010-13
Pronounced wood on nose which also keeps a firm hold on the palate, not much
else coming through; quite sweet with newish oak; powerful but one-dimensional.
Timber!
(MS)
PFEFFINGEN - FUHRMANN-EYMAEL, Pfalz
Pfeffingen - Fuhrmann-Eymael, Ungsteiner Herrenberg “Vogelsang” Weisser
Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Pfalz 16 Drink 2009-12
Broad shoulders, mellow, creamy texture; well developed, nice restrained fruit
aromas of melon and guava.
14%
(MS)
SCHLOSS PROSCHWITZ, Sachsen
Schloss Proschw itz, Schloss Proschw itz Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Sachsen 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Another wood-cutter on the nose, but possesses some saving acidity; quite sweet
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
21 von 22
with an afterthought of smoked cheese.
(MS)
Burg Rav ensburg, Burg Rav ensburger Löchle Weisser Burgunder Grosses
Gew ächs 2007 Baden 14.5 Drink 2009-12
Matured in rubber? Most likely an overdose of sulphur, long airing recommended to
bring out an otherwise relatively light and fresh wine.
13.5%
(MS)
ŐKONOMIERAT REBHOLZ, Pfalz
Őkonomierat Rebholz, Siebeldinger Im Sonnenschein Weisser Burgunder
Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Pfalz 16 Drink 2009-13
Packs power, but has fruit and minerality too, keeping a grip on the alcohol;
nevertheless a powerhouse.
(MS)
SALWEY, Baden
Salw ey, Oberrotw eiler Henkenberg Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Baden 15 Drink 2009-12
Lower alcohol indicates earlier picking, confirmed by some green and sour notes;
not a success.
12.5%
(MS)
STIGLER, Baden
Stigler, Ihringer Winklerberg Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Baden
16
Drink 2009-14
Ripe melon and a mineral touch provide backbone for a very powerful wine that
finishes of on a note of smoky bacon.
13.5%
(MS)
DR. WEHRHEIM, Pfalz
Dr. Wehrheim, Birkw eiler Mandelberg Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Pfalz 17 Drink 2009-14
Complexity and minerality rein in sugar and alcohol; sufficient acidity to provide
excellent balance, slightly smoky finish, Pinot Blanc at its best.
14%
(MS)
GRAUER BURGUNDER
BERCHER, Baden
Bercher, Burkheimer Schlossgarten Grauer Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007
The nose doesn’t give it away, but this is loaded with newish oak; nevertheless quite
mellow, not at all raw, hint of apricot, subtle undertone of fruit very promising.
13.5%
(MS)
Bercher, Burkheimer Feuerberg Grauer Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Baden
17.5 Drink 2010-15
No effort to save the forest here! Big oak, creamy texture, but there is massive
potential and a lot of wine trying to get out. I’m no wood fan, but full marks for a
smoky Meursault impersonation.
14%
(MS)
FREIHERR VON UND ZU FRANCKENSTEIN, Baden
Freiherr v on und zu Franckenstein, Zell-Weierbacher Abtsberg Grauer
Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Baden 16 Drink 2009-14
Soft and almost fat, more Alsace Pinot Gris than Pinot Grigio; powerful and a big
mouthful without too much timber.
(MS)
DR. HEGER, Baden
Dr. Heger, Ihringer Winklerberg Grauer Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Massive, really fat and broad, oily texture; fortunately light on oak, but a monster.
13.5%
(MS)
09.09.2008 17:09
Jancis Robinson
22 von 22
ANDREAS LAIBLE, Baden
Andreas Laible, Durbacher Plauelrain Grauer Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs
2007 Baden 17 Drink 2009-14
Shows it can be done with little or no wood; lovely fruit, almost exotic; not bone dry
but with good acidity and appealing already; excellent effort.
13%
(MS)
Burg Rav ensburg, Burg Rav ensburger Löchle Grauer Burgunder Grosses
Gew ächs 2007 Baden 16 Drink 2010-14
Vanilla and the resin of freshly sawn logs; well made with enough acidity to stand
up to the commercially attractive oaky notes and powerful alcohol; will need time to
mellow but has appeal.
14%
(MS)
SALWEY, Baden
Salw ey, Oberrotw eiler Eichberg Grauer Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007
A touch of sweet oak; more than a touch on the palate, also some tropical fruit,
quite an exotic cocktail but holding much promise; a little sweet for my taste, but
overcoming personal prejudice it has to be admitted that there is great potential in
this powerhouse.
14%
(MS)
Salw ey, Oberrotw eiler Henkenberg Grauer Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Baden 16.5 Drink 200914
Slightly more moderate use of oak, better integrated at this stage; a touch of honeyroasted, still quite wooded at this stage, but should come round a little earlier than
its bigger brother/sister.
13%
(MS)
SCHLUMBERGER, Baden
Schlumberger, Laufener Altenberg Grauer Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007
Big mouthful, tad flabby; not too much wood, but dominance of alcohol makes wine
appear almost sweet.
13.5%
(MS)
STIGLER, Baden
Stigler, Ihringer Winklerberg Grauer Burgunder Grosses Gew ächs 2007 Baden
16.5 Drink 2009-14
Interesting oak variation of roasted coffee beans on nose; quite subtle on palate, not
too timber-clad, creamy and round.
13.5%
(MS)


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