How to Clean a Fog Machine Pump 1 By: CoffinBound

How to Clean a Fog Machine Pump
By: CoffinBound
http://www.coffinbound.com
1
About this Document
This document is a revised version of my original ‘How to Resurrect a Potentially Dead Fog Machine’
document where I detailed how to disassemble, clean and reassemble a non-working fog machine.
Many years have passed and after rereading the original file, I decided it was really due for a rewrite. I
will still leave the original version out there on my site for review, but this will become the main How to
document for this procedure. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me using the Contact page
on my website.
Before we begin
Please read thru the ENTIRE How To before you start. If there is a step you don’t understand, email me! I
would much rather answer questions before you get started than have you tear into it and get stuck in
the middle. I will answer any questions I can.
Disclaimer
This How To document was created using a Lite F/X brand fog machine for the pictures and descriptions.
From my experience, it should be somewhat consistent with other brands and models of fog machines
available to the general public. That being said, I cannot guarantee the information provided here will
work on your specific fog machine. I make no promises or guarantee that by you following the
information and completing the steps provided below that your equipment will work afterwards or not
possibly be damaged further. I will not be held liable for misuse of this information. All information
presented in this document is presented 'as is', with no warranty, suitability, or fitness of purpose
implied. I do not accept any responsibility for any injury OR property damage resulting from use or
misuse of this information. Use of this information is at your own risk. Your use of this information
constitutes acceptance of these terms.
http://www.coffinbound.com
2
Gather the required tools and materials
You will need the following tools and about an hour to complete this tutorial. That is, unless you are like
me and work really slow. Then give yourself 2 hours or so.

















Phillips head screwdriver
Side cutters or nippers
Utility knife
6 inch piece of #14 or #16 gauge wire
Syringe (Mine was leftover from an infant prescription)
12mm open end wrench
Disposable bowls / cups
Old toothbrush
Cotton swabs
Coffee Filter
Paper towel or rag
Funnel
Clean & known good fog juice
Distilled water
White distilled vinegar
Notepad or camera for taking notes/pictures for reference
Teflon tape
Step 1: Examining the contents of the bottle
1. Make sure the fogger is unplugged and cold. Don’t try to continue with a fogger that was
recently plugged in. Many parts inside get EXTREMELY hot and burns can occur.
2. Place a coffee filter into the funnel and set into a catch container. I use a red plastic Solo cup.
3. Check if your fogger’s juice bottle has any fluid in it. If not, pour some fog juice or distilled water
into the tank. You don’t need much, just about ½ a cup or so.
4. Pick up your fogger and gently swirl it around. You are trying to loosen any solid particles that
may be sitting in the bottom of the fluid tank.
5. Pour the contents of the fogger’s fluid tank into the coffee filter. Allow this to filter out while
you proceed through the next sections.
Step 2: Disassemble the fogger
1. Most Lite F/X foggers have a metal strainer in the plastic fluid line that sits in the tank. Take the
side cutters and snip the plastic tie that holds the strainer onto the tube. Remove the strainer
and set it aside. Pull the hose out of the yellow cap and set the cap aside. If necessary, use the
utility knife to cut off the small section of tubing that was flared out by the strainer.
2. Remove ALL the screws from the top cover plate (the piece with the two plastic handles) of the
http://www.coffinbound.com
3
fogger. Lift off then pull the tubing out of the cover plate. Set the cover plate aside.
3. Flip the fogger over so it is sitting on its top. Remove all the screws EXCEPT the four (4) corner
screws and the three (3) screws in the middle of the bottom plate. If done correctly, the two
side panels should slip off now leaving you with the bottom plate and the two end plates.
4. Flip the fogger back over so it is on its base.
Step 3: Remove the pump
1. With your open end wrench, unscrew the nut on the end of the brass tube connected to the
pump.
2. Next, only LOOSEN the nut on the other side connected to the heater core. You aren’t removing
it, just making it so the tubing can be rotated.
3. Roll the fogger over onto its side and locate the single screw directly under the pump and
remove it.
4. Roll the fogger back onto the base.
5. Carefully pull and rotate the brass tube up and out of the pump. Be sure not to bend or kink the
tubing.
Step 4: Disassemble the pump
1. Use the side cutters to snip any wire ties keeping the wires to the pump tidy. Having extra slack
in the wires will make it easier to complete the next steps.
2. If necessary, take some pictures or make some notes of what wires are where in case something
gets disconnected. Having a couple pictures now may be a life saver later.
3. Grasp the cylindrical pump housing in one hand and twist the exhaust housing in a counter
clockwise direction. The exhaust housing is the 90 degree elbow that the brass tube was
connected to. They might look like they are one solid piece, but they aren’t as evidence of the
red sealant used as a tamper evidence marking.
4. Continue to unscrew until they separated. Be careful and go slow as there are several small
parts inside that need to be put back in the same way they are now. Make notes or take pictures
of how they are situated inside. My pump contained the following parts, but yours may vary.
a. Pump Housing
b. Inner Spring
c. Small Thin Rubber Ring Seal
d. Flat Metal Washer
e. Small Thick Rubber Ring Seal
f. Piston
g. (2) Large Rubber Ring Seal
h. Exhaust Housing
http://www.coffinbound.com
4
Step 5: Cleaning the pump and miscellaneous parts
This step has changed considerably since the original write-up. Please note that I no longer
recommend using any type of commercial solvent when cleaning the parts. I now solely recommend
using only WHITE DISTILLED VINEGAR. It isn’t as harsh as other chemical cleaners and shouldn’t react
and damage the metal components.
1. All the parts are normally smooth when first assembled, so examine the parts for any mineral
buildup and roughness. These areas will need to be scoured to bring them back to a clean
smooth state.
2. Place the exhaust housing, rubber rings, metal washer, spring and piston into a small container.
Pour in enough vinegar to submerge the parts. Allow to soak while performing next steps.
3. Take a cotton swab and soak it with vinegar. Insert it into the pump housing and thoroughly
clean the inside walls of the pump. You can even dump some vinegar into the pump and allow it
to soak to loosen and remove stubborn buildup. You may need to plug up the end of the plastic
tubing so the vinegar doesn’t run out. The swab should eventually come out clean once the
buildup is removed.
4. Verify that the tiny inlet hole on the side of the pump still connected to the plastic tubing is
open and not blocked. Like in the previous step, you can verify by dumping some vinegar into
the pump and allowing it to run out the end of the plastic tubing. If clogged, pull off the tubing
and clear the hole with a small pointed object like a safety pin.
5. Using a cotton swab and vinegar, clean the inside of the exhaust housing. Clean until the cotton
swab comes out clean. Make sure to get both sides of the housing. There is also a check ball in
the corner of the housing. Make sure it moves freely by pushing on it with the stick of a cotton
swab with the cotton removed. If it doesn’t, allow the part to soak some more.
6. Wipe down the other parts that were soaking. Inspect the rubber rings for flat spots, nicks or
tears. If any damage is noted, replace them. Make sure the metal washer is smooth and clean.
Replace if pitted or broken.
7. After all parts are cleaned, rinse them thoroughly with distilled water.
8. Take a look at the brass tubing and remove any old Teflon tape that may be on the tubing or
nut.
9. Examine the coffee filter. Look for any solid bits that might be left in the filter. Note any pieces
of metal and try to determine where they came from. My strainer deteriorated contaminating
my entire fluid bottle. If you find solid particles, be sure to flush out the bottle to completely
remove all solid bits. If the strainer is deteriorating, determine if it is still safe to use or if it
should be replaced. i
Step 6: Reassembly
1. Follow any notes or pictures you might have taken to reassemble the pump.
2. Pour some clean fog juice into a cup and place all the parts except the exhaust housing and
pump body into it. This will act as lubrication for all the moving parts and seals.
http://www.coffinbound.com
5
3. Fill the syringe with fog fluid. Squirt some into both sides of the exhaust housing. Use the thin
wire to make sure the fluid completely fills the cavities.
4. Remove the remaining parts from the fog juice and reinstall them into the housing and pump
body. Be sure to put them back in the same way they were removed. Reinstall the exhaust
housing onto the pump body. Make sure to realign the red tamper marker so that you know you
have the housing installed properly.
5. Reinstall the fully assembled pump back into the fogger base. Reinstall the screw in the bottom
to hold the pump in place.
6. Wrap a couple turns of Teflon tape onto the threads of the exhaust housing then reconnect the
brass tubing. Gently but firmly tighten the retaining nut. Also tighten the retaining nut on the
heater core side as well.
Step 7: Testing
1. Don’t install the side panels yet. You will just end up taking them back off if something doesn’t
work.
2. Fill your syringe with fog fluid and push in onto the end of the plastic tubing leading into the
pump.
3. Plug in the fogger and allow it to come up to temp.
4. When the fogger is ready to go, gently squeeze the syringe and activate the trigger at the same
time. Forcing the fluid down the line will reduce the amount of time it takes for fog juice to get
into the pump and prevent it from seizing up again. If your syringe empties before the fluid has
reached the pump; release the trigger, refill the syringe and do it again. You want the tubing full
of fluid before continuing.
5. Once the tubing is full, remove the syringe and insert the tubing into the tank containing clean
fog fluid. Run the fogger several times to make sure it is working properly.
6. If it is working properly, go ahead and allow the unit to cool down then install the rest of the
cover panels and the fluid line strainer, cap, etc.
If after completing this procedure, your fog machine still produces little to no fog, then you might have a
clogged heater core. I personally have never been able to successfully clean a heater core in my fog
machines. On my web site, I have information some people have supplied outlining how to remove and
clean, yet I didn’t have the success they did. I personally recommend you proceed with caution.
i
Locating replacement filter / screen may prove to be challenging. Here are a couple things you can try Googling to
assist you in locating a replacement. Some of these may take some creativity to use though. My personal favorite is
the “Crap Trap” filter. I think it has the best possibility of working and dependability.
-- Oregon 37-232 Pressure Washer Detergent Suction Filter with Check Valve (brass) 1/4-Inch Barb
-- http://www.pneulinesupply.com/
-- http://www.ebay.com/bhp/1-4-fuel-filter
-- Sullivan “Crap Trap” Fuel Filter – Part # S187 OR S189
http://www.sullivanproducts.com/FuelSysComponentsMainFrame.htm
-- http://www.hobbylinc.com/rc_airplane_fuel_filters
http://www.coffinbound.com
6