FUZEBLOCKS FZ-1 FUSE BLOCK INSTALLATION

FUZEBLOCKS FZ-1 FUSE BLOCK INSTALLATION
FZ-1 Fuse Block purchased 02-13-2009 from Cyclenutz dot com P.O. Box 954 Waukesha WI 53187
price $74.95 plus $8.95 shipping & handling - Total $81.90
Photo of FZ-1 Fuse Block with cover attached
Photo with cover removed
Direct-wire connection - no wire terminal rings are needed. Built-in relay for the ignition key-switched
power circuits is direct-soldered onto circuit board. Unit appears to be well-made of high quality
construction. Is indicated to be highly weather-resistant and splash-proof. Accepts “Mini” size blade type
fuses. Six individual fused circuits. Each circuit can be constant power or switched-only power simply by
changing the insertion position of the fuse. Includes ground bus and sockets for 2 spare fuses.
Closeup pic of circuit board.
Manufacturer’s wire hookup
diagram from the Installation
Guide appears on the next
following page.
Instructions were very clear and
concise including wire gauge
size recommendations.
FZ-1 Fuse Panel Wiring Hookup
Schematic From Installation Guide
INSTALL LOCATION ON
2009 HONDA GL1800
GOLD WING - WITH NO
CB / CD PLAYER
(Feasible if you do have CB
radio only).
FZ-1 Fuse Block reportedly
will fit underneath the left
battery side cover on a GL
1500, but it will NOT fit
under the left side cover on
the GL 1800.
I installed mine in the rear
trunk’s CB radio / CD
changer sub-floor cavity.
My GW has neither CB Radio (no desire for one) or CD Changer (because I use XM Radio and MP3
Player). I wanted easy access to fuse block but did not want to mount it directly to cavity floor. I decided
to mount the fuse block on a “support tray lift panel” that rests upon the two molded-in sidewall “shelves”
of the sub-floor cavity. Apparently, these are shelves upon which the stock OEM divider panel would rest
dividing the lowermost CB cavity from the uppermost CD Changer cavity, if the bike is so equipped.
In this fashion I can store small-item “stuff” adjacently next to the fuse panel in the upper cavity, as well
as lift up the tray panel for access to store small-item “stuff” in the lower cavity underneath the tray panel.
Photo shown with the
‘09 GW’s trunk floor
removable cavity cover
lid removed for photo.
FZ-1 Fuse Panel and a
12V power accessory
socket installed onto the
lift-up tray panel.
A flat-lying swing-up Dring was used as fingerpull to lift tray panel
upward to access storage
compartment underneath
the tray.
I used a “Casco” 12V
power outlet obtained
from Wal-Mart for rough
cost of $8 - $9. Have
seen identical outlet in
auto parts stores under
brand name “Bell”.
Spring-loaded protective cap
cover is quite strong and
presses against side body of
an accessory power plug
inserted into power outlet,
thereby helping to hold the
power plug very tightly &
securely in socket to aid
reliable electrical contact.
I also picked up a triple-socket 12V power panel from Wal-Mart attached
via industrial grade Velcro to center of main trunk rear wall. (See pics on
next page). Power wire runs under trunk carpet mat and CB-CD cavity lid,
plugs into socket on tray panel, thereby tripling 12V power supply in main
trunk, with total of four 12V accessory sockets in trunk for approx $25 cost.
When the triple-socket power panel is not needed or not in use, if-as
desired, I can simply pull it off the trunk wall Velcro and stash in the CB-CD
cavity, either above or below the fuse panel tray.
I debated material to use for
the tray support panel plexiglass, Lexan, etc. I
ultimately decided to use
this smooth-finished 1/4-in.
thick “crafts plywood” panel
obtained from local crafts
supply store for about $6 simply for ease of cutting it
and attaching items to it.
After cutting out tray
template, I spray-painted it
black to match trunk interior.
This panel was thus very
easy to work with, and
provides adequate non-flexing rigidity and support.
A dimensional sizing template for the lift-up support tray panel is shown on the next page.
SIZING TEMPLATE FOR LIFT SUPPORT TRAY
(Note comments below the illustration)
Actually, you do NOT need to cut out the curved arc at the top of the template at all. A regular straight-cut
rectangle will fit fine and clear the raised “hump” in the CB radio cavity. I just cut the arc because I hadn’t
yet removed the seat and thus wasn’t sure where I might end up deciding to drill the front wall of the
trunk for the fuse block’s wiring harness. If you elect to use a lift tray panel yourself, I suggest just using
a regular rectangle shape because the “hump” region doesn’t afford any convenient location for wire
harness pass-through, as you’ll see in subsequent pics later on herein.
The dimensions shown in template diagram are intended as a general guide and will provide a “loose
fit” and minor clearance leeways which should account for any slight variations that may exist in the
dimensions of the CB-CD cavity between differing model-year Gold Wings. You should of course
measure your own cavity dimensions on your own motorcycle and adjust size dimensions as per your
own preferences. Suggest making a cardboard template first to verify if the above dimensions are
suitable on your individual particular motorcycle.
Assembling Components Onto The Lift
Support Tray Panel
I pre-wired all 6 circuits for fuse panel and
(hereafter) over-wrapped them all with
electrical tape into a bundled wire harness.
I didn’t have a handy-sized wooden lift knob
laying around. Did have a tiny little U-bolt
clamp designed for clamping steel-braid cable,
so I used that plus a D-ring for a tray lift pull-up
handle. That worked out nice since the D-ring
can fold relatively flat.
I located a rubber wire grommet with central
circumferential groove wide enough to
accommodate the thickness of the trunk’s front
body-wall at Lowes Building Supply store.
You’ll need a grommet with a fairly wide
groove in it.
I used white plastic self-adhesive-backed wire
retainer holders from local hardware store,
which have large lever-handles for ease of
opening and closing the retainers.
Power socket & fuse block mounted on
tray, with fuse block cover installed.
Power socket & fuse block mounted on
tray, with fuse block cover removed.
I’ll be using “Smart Fuses” with built-in
integral LED lights that glow if-when the
fuse is blown.
It “wasn’t really necessary”, because there was just
enough clearance “as is” . . . but . . . the triple-socket
power suppy Velcroed to the main trunk’s rear wall has
a wire with cigarette lighter plug that passes underneath the trunk’s carpet floormat, underneath the front
of the CB cavity lid and plugs into the 12V power socket
on the fuse block mounting tray panel. So - just to avoid
any possible wire chafing, I used a Dremel tool to notch
out the front lip of the stock OEM cavity lid for the 12V
power adapter’s supply wire, at the location shown here.
DRILLING THE TRUNK HOLE FOR FUSE BLOCK WIRING HARNESS A WORD OF CAUTION - ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE STOCK OEM HEATED SEAT
I used 14-gauge wire for the six fuse block circuits. Once tightly tape-wrapped into a bundled wiring
harness, the diameter of harness was just a tad thicker and just a tad less flexible and bendable that I
had anticipated. I could have been a tad more judicious in trunk wall drill hole location but “got lucky” I ended up having enough clearance for the wire harness to “clear” sufficiently enough to avoid harness
chafing over time by the metal mounting tab that holds the electrical connection power supply Hitachi
plug for the 2009 Gold Wing stock OEM heated seat. See the following photos. Take your time, go slow,
and chose your trunk wall hole-drilling location very carefully for your application needs and your own
year-make-model Gold Wing. The next 4 pics will illustrate why (especially if you have a heated seat).
(Seat Removed).
Photo shown with the metal clip that holds the
heated seat Hitachi plug connector removed.
Here’s the referenced metal clip that holds the
aforementioned heated seat Hitachi Plug
connector.
The visual view-angle of pic is mildly
deceiving. I was able to run the fuse panel’s
wire harness, routed as shown by the yellow
line, without the harness contacting any
edges of the metal clip - and secure the
harness so it won’t ever move into any
contact with the clip - but it sure was a lucky
close call . . . so be very, very careful when
you decide where to drill the hole in your
trunk wall !!!
The fuse panel wire harness
route path shown here cable-tied to the inner side
of left frame rail and
portions of the stock OEM
harness that runs along that
same frame rail - did not
create any problems with
clearance or pinching by the
underside of the stock OEM
seat pan.
The fuse panel wire harness
continues along the left
frame rail to a point just
forward of the frame rail
cross-member near top rear
of gas tank. It then splits
right-left as described
below.
The continuing Wire Run “A” is the fuse panel’s main positive & negative leads to the battery
terminals . . . and to the stock OEM Fuse Panel’s positive “Accessory” terminal. That third wire
connected to the OEM fuse panel Accessory terminal is the wire that provides power to the FZ-1
relay which powers any of the circuits for which the fuse insertion position makes a circuit “switched
only”, powered only when the ignition key is in the “On” or “Acc” position.
Wire Run “B” continues across the bike from left side to right side, over the top of gas tank and in
front of the Relay Bank Housing Box. These wires are the positive and negative power wires for
connection to your add-on electrical accessories. I utilized 14 gauge stranded wire, double wires
similar to “lamp cord”, colored red and black, obtained from Radio Shack, for easy visual ID of
positive and negative wires for each one of the circuits attached to the FZ-1 fuse panel which exit
from the trunk body. The power connections to existing accessories were made in the region under
the right body side cover where there’s plenty of room for routing, connecting and tucking wires
above, below and behind the gas tank body. The ends of the remaining two (presently-unused
accessory-item circuit wires) were shrink-tubed and tape-wrapped for protection against short-circuits
and the weather. They were cable-tie-routed along the lower frame side-rail beneath the gas tank,
above the passenger footrest area, beneath the right body side cover, where they are easily
accessible for connection to additional accessories in the future.
With the exception of the direct-connect screw terminals on the FZ-1 fuse panel, stock OEM fuse
panel and battery terminals, any-all wire connections were soldered, shrink-tubed and tape-wrapped
for reliable and weatherproof connections.
COMMON GROUND & “HOT” BLOCK
Had occasion to desire a common ground block. In the past I’ve used the common ground block
offered by Electrical Connections Co. on prior GW and was perfectly satisfied with it, but wanted to
go a less-expensive route this time around.
I searched high and low for a generic aftermarket terminal block that afforded a “common feed” to
any-all screw terminals. If such a thing exists, I couldn’t locate one. All the terminal blocks I was able
to find provide common feeds only for individual pairs of terminal screws, each in their own individual
channel. Fortunately, there was an easy fix for that.
Forum member Fred H accomplished the necessary
“fix effect” by (apparently) dremeling out the terminal
block’s barrier ridge into a groove into which he inset
(epoxied???) a metal strip which affords contact
between both rows and all terminal screws. As shown
in Fred’s photo here. (After which Fred replaced the
purple wire with a thicker-gauge wire which he felt was
necessary). I truly applaud Fred for his Ingenuity, as
well as his Patience in fabricating this modification.
That patient, I am not, LOL.
Here’s the “fix method” I used to accomplish the same
thing. I only needed a small number of connects, so I
bought a small 4-terminal junction block. I used little
metal jumper clips that jump over and bridge the
barrier from one terminal screw to another, vertically. I
then used a very short jumper wire with two ring
terminals to bridge the channel rows horizontally.
Thus, any wire connected to any terminal then
provides current feed to all terminals. Here is a line
diagram that illustrates the common distribution
connections.
A photo of my common ground block installation is
shown on the next page.
Note that although I used a terminal block with only 4 terminal screws, the screw lengths are plenty
long enough to attach multiple ring terminals to any singular screw if so desired, and the marinegrade terminal block and its screws are designed to withstand high-torque screw tightening.
I attached a flat metal
strap bracket to the
terminal block’s 2
uppermost mounting
holes. That bracket is
bolted to bike via the
battery’s hold-down
bracket bolt. There
were no clearance
problems between the
terminal block, the
underside pan or lower
edge of seat, or the
upper edge of the body
side cover, at all.
The horizontal central
“hump” of the 2 metal
jumper clips can be
seen between upper &
lower terminal screws.
The little ring terminal
jumper wire that connects the left and right terminal rows is connected to the two lowermost terminal
screws, and tucked inward between the bottom of the ground block and the top of the battery casing.
Bearing in mind Fred H’s admonishment to not use too thin a wire for the primary connection, I went
a little bit on the “overkill” side and used a 10-gauge wire for the primary connection between the
negative battery terminal and the common ground block.
Next page shows a wider-angle view of installation.
Here’s a widerangle view. A
positive,
common “hot
block” was
also made up
and attached
to the lower
right front of
battery casing
via industrial
grade Velcro.
Hot Block sits
behind the
black plastic
splash shield
cover.
For hot-block
accessory
connections I
used LED
glow-whenblown “Smart
Fuses” in clear Smart Fuse fuseholders so I can see if fuse is blown without even having to open up
the fuseholders. Note slit piece of fuel line hose on battery hold-down bracket to prevent wire chafe.
When it comes time to replace the battery, all I need do is snip a few cable-ties, install new Velcro patch
on new battery for remounting the hot-block, reinstall a few new cable-ties and I’m “good to go”.
The wire hanging near lower right corner of pic is the connector plug wire for the portable heat controller
for my Gerbing heated jacket. When the left side battery / body side cover is installed, I reach in the side
cover’s “vent hole” and can access the plug-in for the Gerbing jacket. I have a Kuryakyn driver’s backrest
whose flat chrome sideplates (mounted beneath the passenger grab-handles via handle bolts) makes
the perfect place to hang the Gerbing Portable Heat Controller on - via the controller’s “belt clip” case
cover, so the temp controller is within easy reach of left hand and “out of my way”. In similar fashion, I
ran the connector plug for my Battery Tender so that the plug is accessible from the vent hole in the
opposite, right side, side cover.
The terminal blocks used are heavy-duty marine grade blocks manufactured by Blue Sea Systems,
obtained from local marine supply store. The terminal screws are plenty long enough for attaching
multiple ring terminals to a singular terminal screw if-as desired - and Blue Sea states they are
specifically designed to withstand high-torque tightening of terminal screws. The terminal blocks I used
are rated for 30 Amps - Part # 2502. The Blue Sea website http://bluesea.com/ (go to their “Busbars,
Connectors & Insulators” page) lists many varieties of terminal blocks. The site also has a “find a local
dealer” dealer page so you can locate a distributor near you who handles their product line if you don’t
want to “buy online” sight unseen. Strongly suggest personal pre-purchase look-see at items, at local
marine supply store, if possible, to verify adequacy for your own preference and application.
I hated the idea of adding any “spaghetti” near the battery - which was the whole idea of the FZ-1 fuse
panel to begin with.
Unfortunately, after purchase & install of the Fuzeblocks FZ-1 fuse panel, in subsequent purchases of
PIAA Powersports 1100X auxiliary driving lamps (love ‘em!) and Gerbing heated clothing I discovered
these two items came with inline fuse-holders rated at 20 Amps and 15 Amps, respectively. Exceeding
the per-circuit max rating of 10 Amps on the FZ-1 panel. I do not know if the manufacturer-supplied inline
fuse ratings represent “steady current draw” or not, but I elected to proceed on the side of caution and
thus decided to power these two items via common ground & hot blocks instead of wiring them through
the FZ-1 fuse panel.
I like the FZ-1 panel for what it is, the convenience of being able to have always-on or switched-only
power simply by changing fuse position, and the comparatively small size, but as the manufacturer states
the small size comes at a price of Amperage limitation as noted on their hookup schematic - 30 Amp
overall, 10 Amps per individual circuit. Evidently, the manufacturer must presume that all six circuits will
not be routinely ennergized at any given time ?
In retrospective hindsight, I would have done better with more foresight to research in advance the
amperage draw of any-all anticipated future bling accessories I might likely purchase, and choose a fuse
panel accordingly.
I debated returning the FZ-1, but didn’t feel like going through the hassle of that plus installation of a new
differing fuse panel. Since I anticipate purchase of no further high-amp-draw bling items, I decided to just
live with the choice already made and use the easier fix of a common ground and hot block for the two
aforementioned high-draw accessories. All in all I’m satisfied (enough) because I managed to maintain
at least some semblance of “orderly neatness” near the battery.
Hope this info proves useful or helpful for anyone considering similar or alternative mods.
Thanks to forum member Brian Fenner for sharing the idea of general install location o floor inside
trunk cavity, and for some helpful advices he offered, and to Fred Harmon for his shared info.
Mcrider4eva5491