Viva Daily

N E W Z E A L A N D FA S H I O N W E E K
V I VA . C O . N Z
Daily
I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
FIND MORE
EXCLUSIVE
COVERAGE AT
VIVA.CO.NZ/NZFW
Monday August 22, 2016
Picture / Guy Coombes
Harman Grubisa kick off Fashion Week
T
By Amanda Linnell, Viva editor
oday marks the start of
New Zealand Fashion Week
2016 and the Viva Daily
— your exclusive paper
bringing you the very
best coverage of all the
action. From the opening show tonight
with Mercedes-Benz Presents Harman
Grubisa (above) — the most talked about
HOT SPOTS
Fashion people love a gourmet burger, and
this nostalgic food trend is showing no sign
of slowing. Visit one of these new openings:
The Burger Bar K’Rd
St Kevin’s Arcade’s newest addition is
a retro-themed beer and burger bar.
The small space has an old-school living
room feel, with couches extending into
the arcade. Burgers are handmade, as is
the relish and aioli, and flavours include
experimental options such as chicken
liver pate with duck breast and parsnip.
Burg’z Burgers
Elliot Stables’ latest offering specialises
in organic, handmade burgers, teamed
with organic wine and craft beer. The
design duo of the week — through to the
late night shows and parties of renagade
brands such as Huffer and Stolen
Girlfriends Club, the Viva fashion team
will be there. You will find our writers
backstage interviewing the designers,
talking to the top models and reporting
on the hair and makeup trends. Our
photographers and videographers will
be capturing it all — including the
team swear by fresh produce, using
free-range and hormone-free meat, and
vegetables supplied daily from local
farmers. Weekly specials like mushroom
chips keep things interesting.
Corner Burger
After just nine months at Greenwoods
Corner, this relatively new burger joint
has opened a second outpost, on the
corner site of an old petrol station in
Mt Eden. Delicious burger creations
include hickory pulled pork with streaky
bacon and an ice cream-filled cronut
burger. The bar offers craft beer and
cocktails in a tempting outdoor space.
For more retro-style burger joints, see
Viva.co.nz/Burgers
frisson of the street style set and the
glamour of those in the front row. The
key focus, however, will be the fashion
collections and determining which looks
will be the top sellers in-store next
season. Fashion Week is, after all, not
just about flashy runway shows. There
is a commercial reality that underpins
the whole event. From the established to
fledgling new labels, Fashion Week is an
FOLLOW US
@NZHViva
important platform that increases their
visiblity and puts them directly in the
media and public’s eye.
Keep your finger on the fashion pulse with
the Viva Daily — in the inner-city this
week, our bumper Viva magazine free in
Wednesday’s Herald, at Viva.co.nz/NZFW
for up-to-the minute online coverage and on
Instagram, Snapchat, Twitter and Facebook.
Small Talk Tips
It’s Fashion Week, and the ratio of
extroverts to introverts is probably very
high. You may find yourself next to someone
you don’t know ... Break the ice with these
conversation starters:
• Turn and whisper, “It’s so Vetements isn’t
it?” at any outfit you see. Extra points for
correct pronunciation (VET-MAHN).
• The best way to catch someone off-guard
is to ask them a serious question. Try:
“What are your thoughts on the state of
politics in the US today?” Cross your arms
and stare at them intensely.
• The weather: that old chestnut. “This
weather is so temperamental, isn’t it?”
Alternatively, if the person looks below 25:
“Auckland weather. Ugh. Am I right?”
Daily
N E W Z E A L A N D F A S H I O N W E E K / Monday August 22, 2016
I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
Chill Out, Man
Dan Ahwa’s simple ways to find your bliss
and stay centred during Fashion Week
Put a crystal in your bag
Whenever you feel the need to centre your chakra, why not
clutch a crystal? There are so many options, that surely
one will emit the positive vibes you’ll need to cope with the
MADNESS! CHAOS! and DRAMA! of Fashion Week.
EAT, WEAR, LOVE
WORD
ON
THE
STREET
Who does the best coffee in Auckland?
KIERAN WHELAN
KIRSTEN PLEITNER
Various job holder, part-time
fabric wholesaler, 25
“Fort Greene in St Kevins Arcade.
They do Peoples Coffee and it’s on
that fair trade, organic buzz and
it’s always hot.”
Iko Iko Ponsonby store manager, 36
“Kokako in Grey Lynn.”
We love fashion and food,
so naturally this week we’ve
looked at recipes inspired
by the runway. This lemon
mousse, from Eleanor
Ozich of Petite Kitchen, is
inspired by the above look
from Giorgio Armani’s
Resort 2016 collection. Both
the recipe and the playful
two-tone dress are elegant,
simple and uncontrived, says
Eleanor. “Scarlet-coloured
raspberries are the most
exquisite of fruits. Served
in unadorned simplicity,
layered within a lemony
cream mousse. Thyme honey
brings a slightly herbal note
to this dessert. Serve in
appropriately small portions,
and devour with a teaspoon.”
Lemon mousse with
poached raspberries
Serves 4-5
For the poached raspberries:
DAVID GILLESPIE
Amateur singer, guitarist, poet
and painter, 61
“In my opinion, the best coffee in
Auckland is at DeBretts Kitchen,
because A: they have good coffee
and B: they have atmosphere
there. It is tranquil and an oasis
within the city. It is wonderful.”
1½ cups fresh or frozen
raspberries
1 Tbsp thyme-infused honey
2-3 Tbsp water
For the mousse:
450ml cream
Juice of two lemons
¼ cup honey
1. To make the poached
raspberries, combine all
ingredients in a small
saucepan over medium
heat. Bring to a soft boil,
then simmer for 2 minutes
or so, until the berries
release their juices and
become tender. Set aside to
cool while you prepare the
mousse.
2. Combine the cream and
honey in a small saucepan
over a low heat. Bring to the
boil slowly, whilst stirring to
dissolve the honey.
3. Once the mixture comes to
the boil, let it bubble gently
for 3 minutes or so, stirring
continuously.
4. Remove from the heat
and add lemon juice, stirring
thoroughly as you do so. It
will begin to thicken.
5. Taste, and add a little
more lemon juice or honey if
desired. The mousse should
be sweet, tangy and creamy.
6. Layer the poached
raspberries and lemon
mousse in 4 or 5 small
glasses or jars.
7. Place in the fridge for
approximately 2 hours until
chilled.
For more from Eleanor, visit petite-kitchen.com or see
Viva.co.nz each Thursday for one of Eleanor’s recipes
V I VA . C O . N Z / N Z F W
THE THINGS
YOU REALLY NEED TO
KNOW ABOUT NZFW
Rosie Kelway lines up the trends, collabs and collections to watch out for this week
COOL COLLABS
1. Last year, spatial designer Angus Muir
was behind Sean Kelly’s mirrored runway
installation — this year he will create a light
installation for Stolen Girlfriends Club.
Illustrator Michaela Van Der Laan has
SHOP THE RUNWAY
also customised a number of shoes
Designer Turet Knuefermann will
and garments for the brand’s inpresent her latest range on Thursday, with
season show, which is inspired by
the chance to shop the collection following
Kurt Cobain’s personal diary.
From Mongolian fur to full-on sequins,
the show. Her Fanshawe St store will be open
2. Salasai will collaborate with
we can’t wait to see what design duo Harman
from 12pm for the public to order garments
Taylored
Architecture Studios and
Grubisa do next. As the recipients of this year’s
from the new collection, straight from the
up-and-coming furniture designer
Mercedes-Benz Presents accolade, they will no
runway — reflecting the international
Anthony Robertson, to create
doubt open NZFW tonight with a bang.
“see-now, buy-now” trend.
something incredible for their installation
and exhibition.
BRINGING BACK
THE GLAMOUR
TREND
SPOTTING
Expect to see these street style trends
outside of the shows
1. The 90s and 00s are still dictating
street style looks, from choker necklaces to
coloured, tinted glasses. Think Levi’s jeans
and throwback youth brands such as Fila,
Dickies, Champion and Vans.
2. Wearing your jacket like you hate it
is having a moment — sloped off the
shoulders but still clinging on with at
least one arm.
3. Off-duty athleisure is still big ... expect
it to go one step further this year, with
tracksuit pants likely to be spotted.
NEW BEGINNINGS
Exhibitions and
Installations
Last year, there was the usual speculation
• New Zealand Post, which is a major
that it could be New Zealand’s last fashion
partner of Fashion Week this year, will have
week, as the event’s founder Dame Pieter Stewart
an installation set up in the main foyer of
announced she was looking to take a back seat role.
the Viaduct Events Centre, with past and
She has since sold 50 per cent of the company to three
present postie uniforms on display.
new investors, who have come on board as partners:
• Salasai will hold a live installation
Lance O’Grady, co-director of fashion-focused digital
and exhibition with a focus on the
agency Pocket Square, and Vinny Sherry and Anna
re-launch of the menswear side of its
Hood, co-directors of communications and event
business. Expect familiar faces Ngahuia
management agency Campbell + Co, who have
Williams and Jasper Seven to feature in
been involved with NZFW for many years. We
the installation.
look forward to seeing where they will take
Fashion Week next.
HOT! TALENT!
WELCOME BACK MOVE IT
This year will be all about moving images
After a five year hiatus, World returns to the
— from Snapchat to Boomerang, Instagram
NZFW runway with two shows at Fashion
Stories and even old fashioned videos. We’ll
Weekend. The last time the brand showed at
be getting creative, from the front row to
Fashion Week in 2011, it was the most watched
backstage, so make sure to follow us on
collection in NZFW history, screened live as
Snapchat and Instagram (NZHViva).
the finale episode of New Zealand’s Next Top
Model. “It was the most watched show ever,
I think it had a live audience of about 1.1
million,” says World director and designer
Benny Castles.
This year, the brand will present
its in-season spring collection
Once the shows have wrapped, it’s time to
on Saturday night — with
celebrate with a good ol’ party. Huffer will close
some extra surprises. “We
Fashion Week on Thursday night with an after party
are also putting together a
at its Queen St basement headquarters. It has been the
number of looks and pieces
brand’s workroom for the past 19 years, and following
that we will just be showing
Fashion Week the team will move to Britomart. They’ll
on the runway,” says Benny.
farewell the space with a big send off, including stages
On Sunday night, World will
set up for at least five bands to perform. See our
collaborate with hair salon
pick of the most epic NZFW after parties of all
Ryder. “They came to us with a
time at Viva.co.nz/NZFWParty
concept which we thought was
really special and will be presenting
10 looks — they are going to be
extraordinary.”
Party Time
It’s definitely the year for emerging
designers to be in the spotlight, with Wynn
Hamlyn, Eugenie, Penny Sage, Jarrad
Godman and Kharl-William Wirepa all
presenting their first solo shows. Emerging
stylists are also shining bright this year,
from our own Viva editorial assistant
Danielle Clausen styling Wynn Hamlyn’s
Tuesday show, to Tau Subritzky, who will
be styling Ovna Ovich’s collection as part
of the K Rd Presents show tomorrow night.
Sebastian Hunt and Dylan Richards, who
work with Kanye West and Kim Kardashian
in Los Angeles, are back in town and will be
styling the Stolen Girlfriends Club show on
Wednesday night — expect lots of leather,
denim and Vetements-influenced attitude.
BREAKING
THE RULES
We can’t give away too much, but expect
some off-schedule action this Fashion Week.
In past years, brands like Miss Crabb, Little
Brother and Mala Brajkovic have cheekily
held shows or parties away from the official
NZFW schedule. Expect more of the same
this year ...
Daily
N E W Z E A L A N D F A S H I O N W E E K / Monday August 22, 2016
I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
Focus On:
Jarrad Godman
This young designer to watch will showcase
his new collection tomorrow night, in a
collaboration with the team at Servilles
WICKER MAN
Take a cue from Jane Birkin and accessorise
with a wicker basket, says Jessica Beresford
How did you get into fashion?
My first job was at a fashion PR
showroom, I was lucky enough to work
there while studying fashion at AUT.
The job really showed me the ins and
outs of the industry, which proved to
be very useful when I started my label
after graduating.
What’s something that people would
be surprised to find out about you?
People seem to be surprised when they
find out I am colour blind — but I work
with a lot of black and clashing colours
so they don’t seem to notice.
If you weren’t a designer, what would
you do?
I’d probably look towards pursuing a
career in psychology, but let’s just hope
design works out!
Your three favourite models?
session, in an attempt to counteract the
large quantities of pizza I’ve been eating
whilst making this collection.
The last thing you read and loved?
I recently finished reading Alexander
McQueen’s biography. It was incredibly
upsetting but eye-opening.
Do you think there is a lack of
diversity in NZ fashion, in terms of
representation of gender, sexuality,
race, size?
Definitely! But I guess it’s the same
across fashion as a whole. I’m proud
that I am part of a vocal generation
which is proactive when it comes to
solving these inequalities. Beauty is so
diverse, and I feel in NZ we have woken
up to that and are making progress.
If you could spend 10 minutes in a room
with anyone, who would it be?
There are so many local models who
I adore, and I really can’t choose
between them, so I’ve pulled names
from a hat: Ashleigh Good, Jade
Woods and Jordan Daniels.
Probably my mother’s father. I didn’t get
to meet him and I’d really like to know
if he was bald, seeing that baldness is
inherited from the mother’s side.
What does your typical day look like?
Tumblr, Instagram, *insert website that
makes me look interesting*
For the past month, it’s been the same
routine of patterning, cutting and
sewing in to the early hours of the
morning. But I’ve managed to slip in
countless coffees as well as the odd gym
This Celine
handbag would be
with me for life.
What websites do you frequent?
Your top five emojis?
The
A
s the story goes, Jane Birkin was once
on a flight from France to London, when
she bumped into Hermes’ then creative
director Jean-Louis Dumas. He was not impressed
with her signature wicker basket, the contents
of which had spilled on the plane. On that very
same trip, the now sought-after Birkin Bag was
conceived, sketched onto a sick bag and released
three years later, in 1984.
The moral of this tale is not about getting your
hands on the latest pricey designer bag, rather
that the style maven knew what she was doing.
35 years later, it’s the modest straw basket that’s
emerged as the bag du jour. As Alexa Chung
captioned an Instagram of herself carrying a rather
slouchy-looking variety: “If you’re made of straw
I will probably try to buy you.” Man Repeller’s
Leandra Medine has also been shunning anything
too extravagant in favour of a sturdier take on
wicker, reminiscent of a laundry hamper.
If you’re serious about the quest to channel
Jane, Etsy will return plenty of results, as would a
hunt around the house or an op shop, probably. Of
course, designer manifestations are already on the
market, including Charlotte Olympia’s watermelon
basket and Dolce & Gabbana’s simple tote, which
will set you back a cool couple of thousand.
Although, a word of caution: no one will offer
sympathy if your most prized possessions are
nicked from a wide, open basket, no matter how
on-trend you may be.
Long and challenging bush walks — far from the digital world.
EDIT
VIVA EDITOR
AMANDA LINNELL,
shares what’s inspiring her right now
Tom Ford
Tobacco Vanille —
a fragrance people
always admire when
I wear it.
I have a weak spot
for handmade
ceramics, like this
Richard Stratton
vase.
Ling Mingwei’s The Letter Writing Project
at Sydney’s MCA, is a peaceful space made of
little shrines based on Buddhist contemplation.
Escaping to our house on Waiheke and
working on our spring garden.
I love the vintage
vibe of these woven
heels by Kate
Sylvester.
Wild foliage hand-illustrated laptop
pochette by French brand Maison Baluchon
— a happy alternative to a briefcase.
This Gucci dress is a
heady mix of the exotic
and flirty fringing.
Daily
N E W Z E A L A N D F A S H I O N W E E K / Monday August 22, 2016
I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
CULTURE FIX:
FLAPS
Why not spend your evening watching
a different kind of show? Setting out
to connect as many established and
emerging female creatives in Auckland
as possible, local theatre group Bits and
Pieces Ensemble is presenting the play
Flaps. The highly collaborative piece
is an exploration of the cisgendered,
female experience. According to Bree
Hill, who curated the show, “the piece
sets out to not only discuss the ins
and outs of our world view, but to also
make a direct comment on womyn
making theatre in Auckland. We set
out to collaborate with as many female
creative artists as we could.”
— August 23-27, Basement Theatre.
For tickets visit basementtheatre.co.nz
Picture / M.A.C
GET GRAPHIC
CLUB
TROPICANA
Herald the return of balmier weather with a pair of
espadrilles — even better when it’s a slip-on style from
Proenza Schouler, featuring a vivid banana tree print.
Worn with a summer dress or jeans, this seasonal
wardrobe update will give you plenty of mileage.
$729 from Workshop. Ph (09) 361 3727.
The most eye-catching makeup trick
to master right now is going graphic
with liner. It’s our pick for the
look most likely to transition from
runway to reality, so steady your
hand and boldly go black.
International shows such as
Kenzo (above) pointed the way last
season, and at Fashion Week expect
more arresting handiwork, with
liner applied in unexpected strokes.
This can range from delicately
etching out shapes above the
crease line to heavily wrapping the
eyes in a chunky outline. Forget
cat eye flicks, get creative with a
stronger statement.
M.A.C’s senior artist in New
Zealand, Kiekie Stanners, says the
graphic trend that she saw first
emerge while working backstage in
Europe is gaining momentum.
It will carry through to 2017, given
how well bold makeup looks work
in winter. With six shows to direct
Daily
among the 11 M.A.C are doing
makeup for at NZFW this year,
Stanners knows her stuff. She
explains that what makes a graphic
eye modern is that it is applied more
precisely than a punk interpretation
of old. Where you paint it may be
free form, but the execution needs to
be razor sharp.
“There’s a punkish feel to it, but
there’s a precision too. It’s delicately
done and I think it feels much more
luxurious and high-end.”
Start with looks that hug the lash
line as these are easiest to achieve.
Straight lines with blunt ends are
an option as is curving your liner
thickly round the eye, including
in the waterline. Try a fast-drying
gel liner applied with a brush for
precision, or chunk it up with kohl
or a thick felt-tip liner pen. M.A.C
Black Track Fluidline is one product
that does the job nicely.
— Janetta Mackay
Managing editor Amanda Linnell. Associate editor Zoe Walker. Fashion editor Dan Ahwa. Writers Rosie Kelway, Jessica Beresford, Rebecca Barry Hill.
Beauty editor Janetta Mackay. Photographers Guy Coombes, Babiche Martens. Designers Sue Pat, Lucy Casley. Sub-editor Fiona Ralph. Editorial assistant Danielle Clausen.
Commercial director Paula Blind. Contact us [email protected]
V I VA . C O . N Z / N Z F W
SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST
If you’re planning on spending a day at Fashion Week, plan it like a military operation and pack a kit for all eventualities
Skip the quinoa seeds in coconut water this week.
Choc Stars chocolate, made from Ecuadorian cacao,
is the preferred energy spike for the fashion pack.
$10.50, from Smith + Caughey’s.
Dehydrated skin is never pretty.
A spritz of Jurlique Rosewater
Balancing Mist, $40, from Smith +
Caughey’s, will refresh skin instantly.
It’s water darling. S’well water bottle,
$59.95, from Smith + Caughey’s.
If it’s good enough for Anna Wintour, wearing sunglasses
inside is perfectly acceptable for the rest of us.
Prada sunglasses, $530, from Smith + Caughey’s.
Fact: it can get pretty windy at
Wynyard Quarter. Enlist the help
of a Tangle Teezer to keep that
blow-dry ship-shape. $28, from
Smith + Caughey’s.
If you’ve ever become a fashion casualty and uttered
the words: “You go on, leave me here. I can’t walk any
further,” consider whipping out Twinkle Toes Invisible
Gel Cushions, $12.95, from Smith + Caughey’s.
Because Fashion Week is an endurance event.
Sod’s law: it always rains during
Fashion Week. Blunt umbrella,
$89, from Smith + Caughey’s.