military collectors` club of canada

Transcription

Military Collectors’ Club of Canada Winter Issue 2014
MILITARY COLLECTORS’
CLUB OF CANADA
Edition 259 ~ Winter Journal 2014
Illustrated by Hannah Doell
Featuring Articles Submitted by
Erin Hoar
John Burchell
and an Important Message from 2015 Convention Chairman
Alan Mackenzie
So Ya Want To Be A Military Collector, EH…? (Part 3)
(Guidelines for the new military collector)
Presented by the Calgary Military Historical Society
By David W. Love
www.mccofc.com
MCCC Members # 360 & 2438
1
THE MILITARY COLLECTORS’ CLUB OF CANADA
EXECUTIVE FOR 2014-2015
President
Jim Kusnick
8-4703 51 Street Delta, BC V4K 2W1
(604) 946-2622
[email protected]
Vice President
Arlon Bauer
Box 6, Site 8 RR 2 Stn. Main Cochrane, AB
T4C 1A2 (403) 932-3940
[email protected]
Past President
Jim Kusnick
(604) 946-2622
[email protected]
Secretary
Treasurer
John Zabarylo
Box 9, 525 London Street Winnipeg, MB
R2K 2Z4 (204) 669-0871
[email protected]
Edmonton
Jim Neathway
Box 673 Redwater, AB T0A 2W0
Calgary
Garry Milne
644 Stratton Terrace SW, Calgary, AB
T3H 1M6
Manitoba
Dennis Karpins
35 Wilmington Drive, Winnipeg, MB
R3X 2C1
Others:
Website
Clinton Beck
www.mccofc.com
[email protected]
US Representative
Paul Wallace
PO Box 58462 Seattle, Wa USA 98138
Chapter Chairmen:
Honorary Life Members:
Editor &
Journal Production
Jack Boddington #1, John Thyen #59, Gale Hawkes #152
Nicholas Beck
10447 124 Street Edmonton, AB T5N1R7
(780) 474-7447
[email protected]
Commercial Ads,
John Zabarylo
Club Medals &
Badges, Swap & Shop
Box 9, 525 London Street Winnipeg, MB
R2K 2Z4 (204) 669-0871
[email protected]
Ribbon Bank
Doug Styles
15223 79A Avenue Edmonton, AB
T5R 3H3
(780) 483-7985 [email protected]
Auditor
Jim Kusnick
(604) 946-2622 [email protected]
Honours & Awards
Chairman
Doug Styles
15223 79A Avenue Edmonton, AB
(780) 483-7985
2
PRINCIPAL
CONTENTS
PRINCIPAL CONTENTS
Executive Members …………………………………………………………………………….1
Executive Members.…………………………………………………………………………………..1
Roster Updates………….…………………………………………………………………..…..3
Roster
Editor’sUpdates………….…………………………………………………………………..………….3
Report …………………………..…..……………………………………………..…..4
Secretary/Treasurer
Report
……………………………………………………………….…..24
…………………………………………………………………. 5
Editors
Report…...………………….…..…..……………………………..............................3
…………………………………………………………………………….…...
………………….….27
6
Secretary/Treasurers Report…………………….……………………..………………………..4
Recent
MilitaryNews
Matters
…………………………………………………………………………………....
…………………………………………………………………………….….42
7
Military
Collectors
Club of Canada 2015 AGM Update………………………………..5
Coming
Letters to
Events…………………………………………………………………………..……..43
the Editor…………………………………………………………………………….7
Swap
Convention
Shop…………………………………………………………………………….…..44
Minutes and Reports……………………………………………………….…...8
So
Ya and
Want
To Be A Military Collector, EH…? (Part 3)………………………………...7
Convention 2009 Photos……………………………………………………………………..15
So Ya Want To Be A Military Collector, EH…? (Appendix)…..…………………...20
A Change in the Merit Bar Regulations……………………………………………………17
Upcoming
sale in
of the
Shankland’s
Victoria
Air
Observers
First World
WarCross…………………………………….….….19
- Stanley Caws and Alfred Koch……….30
Robert Shankland VC DCM…………………………………………………………….…….22
Coming Events………………………………………………………………………………………….36
NOTICE: RE 2009 MEMBERSHIP RATES
Piecing Together The Past……………………………………………………………….…..24
1 Year
2 Years
Swap
In
King
Canada
ofand
theShop………………………………………………………………………………………...37
Pimple – Brigadier-General
$25.00
Edward $45.00
Hilliam (Part
In Canadian
2) ………………….….27
Dollars
In USA
$25.00
$45.00
In USA Dollars
Overseas
Military Matters …………………………………………………………………………….….42
$30.00
$55.00
In Canadian Dollars
Kit Shop Items………………………………………………………………………………………….40
Membership
Coming Events…………………………………………………………………………..……..43
runs January 1st through December 31st with dues payable to the Secretary/
Treasurer.
Swap and Shop…………………………………………………………………………….…..44
NOTICE: RE 2014-15 MEMBERSHIP RATES
In Canada
In USA
Overseas
1 Year
$25.00
$25.00
$30.00
2 Years
$45.00
$45.00
$55.00
In Canadian Dollars
In USA Dollars
In Canadian Dollars
NOTICE: RE 2009 MEMBERSHIP RATES
Membership runs January 1st through December 31st with dues payable to the Secretary/
Treasurer.
1 Year
2 Years
In Canada
$25.00
$45.00
In Canadian Dollars
In USA
$25.00THE JOURNAL
$45.00
In USA Dollars
Overseas
$30.00
$55.00
In Canadian Dollars
st
The
Journal of runs
the Military
Collectors’
ClubDecember
of Canada 31
is printed
every payable
three months-mailing
Membership
January
1st through
with dues
to the Secretary/
dates
are: March (Spring Issue), June (Summer issue), September (Fall issue) and December
Treasurer.
(Winter issue) each year. The Journal is printed in Canada for the members of the M.C.C. of C.
and any article submitted for publication in the Journal by members of the Club will not be reprinted without the consent of the Editor or Executive of the Club. Any opinions expressed in
letters or articles in the Journal are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views
of the M.C.C. of C., its officers or its members at large.
ISSN: 1195-5031
3
Roster Updates (December 2014)
New Members
3456
Robert Robins, 788 Parkridge Dr. Calgary, AB T2J 5C9
3457
Arlen B. Nienhuis, 48 Alder St. RR 1, Oakbank, MB R0E 1J1
PH#: 204-803-4132 Email: [email protected]
Interest: WWI Medals, Vimy Ridge, Lee-Enfield Rifles.
3458
Ian MacDonald, 114 Fairway Dr. Edmonton, AB T6J 2C2
PH#: 780-432-0635
Interest: WWII German Equipment, Russia, NATO
3459
Kevin Roberts, 2412-6224 17 Ave SE, Calgary, AB T2A 7X8
PH#: 403-554-1643 Email: [email protected]
Interest: WWI Calgary Bns
3460
Erin Hoar, 12105 102 Ave NW, Edmonton, AB T5N 0L5
Email: [email protected]
Change of address
2520
Rick Rutherford, 530 Leaside Pl. Victoria, BC V8Z 6M4
2669
Richard Martin, 68 Rue Du Jordan, Gatineau, QC J9A 0G1
3371
Steven Dieter, 4348 Weldon Dr. Ottawa, ON K1J 8R2
3412
John Cookman, 16913 Grey-Bruce Line, RR 2, Tara, ON N0H 22NO
2562
Harry Evans, 27 Greenwood Forest Rd. Oro-Medonte ON L0L 3E0
A note from the Editor,
What a busy year 2014 turned out to be, I can say on a personal level I don’t know where the time went. I feel like I just
took over and here I am working on my 5th Journal.
I would like to encourage everyone to continue contributing
stories and articles for our Journal. My reserve is beginning to
dwindle so anything anybody can put together for me for the Spring issue
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would be wonderful. I will remind everyone again that all articles are not only
appreciated but very necessary to keep our Journal afloat. I don’t want to
reuse old articles if I don’t have to. Lets keep the passion going into the new
year. I was superbly impressed by the volume of articles I received for the last
two issues, but the more the merrier.
I am still encouraging everyone to send me feedback regarding the Journal
and I am always on the hunt for new or fresh ideas.
Finally I would like to wish our readers a happy holiday and the best in the
new year!
Editor, Nicholas C. Beck
Treasurers Report,
Greetings, just a couple of notes at this time.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: The MCCC has a brand new web page
all set up and ready to take your membership dues online.
The kit shop is not finished as of yet but is being worked on..
THE CLUB WEBPAGE ADDRESS HAS CHANGED AND NOW IS:
www.mccofc.com or www.militarycollectorsclubofcanada.ca . So, check
out the site in the mean time and if you have any ideas for the new page
please send them in to the new webmaster [Clinton Beck]. You will need your
membership #. If you have forgotten it just email or call me and I will tell you
your number.
The Club asks that you help support it and take out an S&S ad or a dealers ad.
The cost of the ads as well as the membership fees have not been increased
in at least 15 years. If we can’t get more ads from the members, then we
may have to put on the AGM agenda for next year about raising them. At
present we have a discount on dues if you take them for 2 years and if you
take
Dealer ads a year [paid in advance] there is a 10% discount. We have the
lowest rates of any other organizations and yet they have more ads than we
do. You don’t have to take out 4 ads, as little as one ad will help. If you are
looking for a specific item or wanting to sell some items, that S&S ad just
might do it for you.
I have been asked if we have the gold or silver stars in the kit shop for attaching to the Club Medal to denote receiving either the Club Gold or Silver Dis-
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tinguished Service Award. I have found a source and have them in stock now..
If you are interested in obtaining either they are $2.50 each plus postage. As
a note we no longer have [officially] a Kit Shop as the members at the 2013
AGM meeting at the Convention made a motion to kill the kit shop as well as
year bars for the conventions. I can only issue what I have in the Kit Shop for
long as the supplies last and that is it. So if you want any items, now is the
time to order, otherwise the Club will be issuing paper certificate replacements instead of awards. If you have any comments or thoughts on this new
procedure contact the President or Vice-President and let them know what
you think of this idea. You can find their addresses and emails on the inside of
the cover.
Lastly, the following members whose membership numbers from:
1 to 169 are eligible for
3rd Bar
170 to 1324 are eligible for 2nd Bar
1325 to 2260 are eligible for 1st Bar
2261 to 2950 are eligible for 15
YR LSM
to their Long Service Medal or additional Bars if they have not already received them. For other awards contacts me and I will let you know what
you are entitled to.
Cheers to all, and a very merry Christmas to Everyone, and all the best in the
new year!
John Zabarylo
Military Collectors Club of Canada 2015 AGM Update
The Calgary Chapter membership is hard at work planning
the 2015 Convention and AGM with an update to the National Membership as follows:
The Calgary Chapter will host the 2015 Convention & AGM
on Friday, April 3, 2015 at the Hotel Blackfoot. It is being held in conjunction
with the Alberta Arms and Cartridge Collectors Association’s Easter Gun Show
which runs Friday and Saturday April 3rd and 4th, 2015.
Knowing that you will have had a long day buying and selling, we thought that
you would appreciate relaxing in a casual atmosphere having a good meal and
enjoying a fun filled evening in the company of friends. This is exactly what
the Calgary Chapter hopes to provide.
The Event will be held in the Heritage Room at the Hotel Blackfoot with a ten-
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tative schedule as follows:
6:00pm—The evening’s festivities will commence
 Banquet Dinner
 Cash Bar
 Silent Auction
7:00pm—National President will conduct the annual General Meeting
8:00pm– Convention Chairmen will conduct the display awards ceremony
8:30pm– Live Auction will commence
The buffet will be kept open for the evening with desserts and coffee. The
cash bar will remain open for the evening as well.
Registration
To help us in event planning it is important that we receive your intent and/or
your registration as soon as possible. We will be submitting a registration
form for insert in the next Journal and sending out one electronically. Please
complete and return ASAP
 Registration for the convention will be $50.00. This includes the dinner,
AGM and Auction events.
 For attendees booked into the Hotel Blackfoot, their registration packages will be made available at the Hotel upon check in.
 On the day of the event, registration packages can be picked up at the
MCC of C booth at the AACCA Gun show or after the show at the MCC of
C registration desk at the Hotels event facility, the Heritage Room.
 Registration packets will include your name tag. Your name tag is your
ticket to the Friday Banquet and auctions and is necessary for entry.
To submit your intent to attend, to register, or if you have any questions with
regards to registration contact Martin Urquhart at [email protected] or
403-764-0348
Auction Items
We would like at this time to begin soliciting donations for the auction events
as profit accrued from the auction will help pay for convention expenses. To
submit an auction item, provide contact information for a prospective, donor
or for any enquiries contact Martin Urquhart at [email protected] or 403764-0348
It is up to the Calgary Chapter to host an enjoyable event, BUT the support,
attendance and participation of the National Membership is necessary to help
us host not only a successful event but more importantly a memorable one.
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We look forward to seeing you all in April. Please feel free to contact me with
any questions.
Your Convention Chairman, Alan Mackenzie
[email protected]
So Ya Want To Be A Military Collector, EH…? (Part 3)
(Guidelines for the new military collector)
Presented by the Calgary Military Historical Society
By David W. Love
August 1995
Preservation
You now have a collection. How do you preserve it? It really depends
on the type of article being preserved and what you wish to do with it.
However from the start there are a few general truisms. Artifacts are
often received in poor condition and could require some maintenance for
preservation and/or display. This can range from polishing to actual restoration or repair. The most commonly professed philosophy is to alter it as little
as possible but occasionally this may be necessary. Depending on whom you
talk to, though, will get you a different answer. There are those who will not
change anything, no matter what. Others will polish or clean their articles
while others still will go to the extreme of bringing the item back to its original
condition. There is probably no correct answer to this question so let your
conscience be the guide. And above all use common sense. If you must work
on the artifact, at the very least fully understand what you are doing and how
to do it and use the right tools and materials. For example, patent compounds
for a variety of restoration and preservation purpose are available but it is
well to test them on an unimportant article before chancing it on quality examples.
Especially be careful when dealing with articles of mixed media such
as uniforms, webbing and the such. For example, an old leather belt needs
reconditioning. Most conditioners on the market today will do an excellent
job however they are also very hard on the cloth stitching that many belts
were sewn with and ultimately will do more harm than if you had left well
enough alone.
The deterioration of artifacts starts at the time such things are made
and proceeds through their lives. Iron and metal objects rust or corrode,
8
paintings develop cracks and the paint layer may flake off, wood warps, paper
cockles and discolors, both textiles and paper rot, leather decays, etc. Such
deterioration is natural in the sense that it is the response by which such artifacts attain a state of physical and chemical equilibrium with their immediate
environment. Changes of environment, obviously, begin the deterioration
process anew.
Moisture in the atmosphere plays a substantial role in the deterioration of artifacts. The relative humidity or RH is a measure of the moisture content of air. Even in dry climates, some moisture content is always present and
often, in conjunction with atmospheric pollutants, can cause cracking and
flaking of paint layers, shrinking in wood and organic objects, the cockling of
parchment and paper, the corrosion of metal, the growth of molds and fungi,
etc. Apart from atmospheric moisture being present, humidity fluctuation can
be especially damaging to composite objects, due to the different properties
and hence the different responses to their environment. For example, the
wooden portions of weapons alternately swell and contract as the relative
humidity of the atmosphere increases and decreases, while the metal parts
may remain untouched, or conversely a constant but moist environment can
promote onset of rust in metal components while wooden fittings remain
relatively unaffected.
Our modern industrial environment contains substantial amounts of
sulphur dioxide which is evolved in the production of many metals from their
ores and in the burning of fuels such as coal and oil. In the presence of air and
water the sulphuric acid is greatly speeded up; iron salts and oxides function
as catalyst for this reaction. The sulphuric acid formed will cause the deterioration of most materials. Paper will discolor and become brittle; the long fibrous materials such as papers and textiles are composed of are broken under
the action of the acid and material loses its strength; leather will become
weak and powdery; marble is transformed and may disintegrate in the process, even rubber disintegrates.
Degradation can also come about through the chemical “activity” of
metals torwards each other. Certain combinations of metals or indeed, of
materials in general, when placed in contact with each other, will initiate a
chemical corrosion on the surface of one of the metals involved. This is usually manifested by a colored stain or coating which is commonly called verdigris.
In the case of brass particularly, by way of example, this corrosive product can
be seen to be greenish in color. If at all possible, it is best to store artifacts of
different material construction separate from each other.
The presence of harsh light, notably sunlight, will very quickly fade
9
articles and leave them brittle and dry. Also, certain degradation processes
are initiated or enhanced by the energy of light. Keep artifacts in a setting
where subdued light is in the norm.
Other types of artifacts obviously need special care but once again
avail yourself of knowledgeable people. In cases where severe restoration or
preservation is necessary, it is recommended that the collector approach a
large museum which deals in similar artifacts for advice. Failing this, a call to
the Canadian Conservation Institute in Ottawa should give some satisfaction.
While the Canadian Conservation Institute has a mandate of providing conservation and restoration services and advice to public institutions only, it will
not provide extensive service to the individual collector, however the staff
general welcome the occasion query and are generous with their advice,
providing no expense to the Institute is involved.
Storage
Considerations of storage will vary from collector to collector depending on the available space and resources of each individual. Often when a
collector starts into this hobby, the artifacts are either placed in drawers or
mounted on white card or some other similar material which best shows off
the collection. Regardless of type, make certain the supporting base is stout
enough to bear the weight of the specimens it will contain eventually, and
leave gaps for those that you fully expect to obtain.
If using a card mount system, the cards can be placed in drawers, but
pieces of similar material or corrugated cardboard cut to a slightly smaller size
should be placed between them to protect the articles underneath from protrusions of those on the card above. Do not have to much weight on them
(therefore, do not stack to many cards in one drawer). If the holes made in
the card are not too large the items will be held firmly in place but, to make
certain, you can use split wire pins ore a strip of transparent adhesive tape to
hold firm. Generally this is not usually considered necessary until actual framing is carried out.
Under no circumstances should the original shanks, slider or fasteners be removed, as this will affect the value of the article. It is not a good idea
to alter the piece in any fashion. It has been known for fasteners to be removed laboriously and short screw lugs soldered in their place: also small
holes drilled and the badges held in place by thin wire. It is quite unnecessary
to adopt either of these methods for not only does it spoil the badge but it
renders it valueless.
10
In dealing with textiles and leathers, especially those of some age,
the natural aging and drying processes will leave the fibres weakened and
susceptible to undue pressure. Care should be taken to ensure that no new
creases or folds develop as a result of the storing process. If at all possible,
such items should be laid flat and enclosed top and bottom with cotton
sheeting or cloth. If this is not possible, the items can be hung separately ensuring the hanger is suitably padded to minimize the creasing, and hence
weakening the artifact.
Cleaning
Once you have decided you wish to clean an artifact (remember,
there is some discussion whether this is advisable or not), there are often
different methods in handling certain types of article. No one method can
necessarily be considered to be the ‘right’ one (although there are definitely
incorrect methods). As such the suggestions following are merely that – suggestions. As previously warned, it is advisable to test the following, if unsure,
on less important artifacts of similar composition to confirm no damage will
occur.
Medals
Many collectors spoil their medals by over-polishing or buffing them
up with metal polish. This may be quite satisfactory on the harder brass or
cupro-nickel medals struck for World War II. Indeed, this is the only sensible
course for, unlike their solid silver counterparts of World War I and earlier,
these cupro-nickel medals cannot be treated in a silver cleanser. However,
continual rubbing and polishing of the solid and softer silver medals will, in
time, reduce them to lumps of polished silver with all their intricate details
and high spots reduced to a faceless anonymity.
For the best results when using a silver cleanser, first carefully remove the ribbon and place it between the pages of a heavy book. This ensures the ribbon is out of harm’s way as well as being pressed. (When one is
handling a ribbon of say, 1860, it pays to be extra careful as, in some instances, the ribbon is harder to acquire than the actual medal! The firms of Hayward or Spinks can usually be relied upon to supply many replacement ribbons, but it kills a little of the romance to see an antique piece dolled-up with
a brand new shiny ribbon).
Now, having stored your ribbon away, thread a thin loop of nylon
fishing line through the bar or suspender fitting and thoroughly immerse the
medal in a liquid silver cleaning solution (dip). Rinse with water and dry with a
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soft cloth. Minimize rubbing. As the silver content of the medals is usually
extremely high, the silver dip works in almost all cases. Medals of other materials can be cleaned with various results using the same methods and appropriate cleaners. The point is to clean the medal without dulling the sharp edges or lettering on the edges. Both of these tend to be diagnostic features of
the medal and should be preserved as best as possible.
If two or more medals are to be treated put them all in at once, leaving the loops of nylon cord hooked over the side of the jar. Try not to let them
touch each other. A word of warning – if the medals are heavily tarnished be
sure to carry out the work in a well-ventilated room, workshop, or garage. The
toxic fumes can play havoc with your health. Once the dipped medal takes on
a nice brilliant shine, rinse it well in warm, soapy water and, after drying on a
soft piece of toweling or cloth, lightly polish it with a ‘Long Term’ or similar
silver cloth.
Medal ribbons can pose problems, especially if they are of any great
age. If the ribbons are torn or dirty, they can either be replaced in some cases
or, assuming they still maintain their competency, you can clean them yourself. Many of those issued at or later than the turn of the century should
prove no trouble to replace, but those of, say, Germany or Italy or any pre1860 examples are rather more difficult to find. To clean, carefully wash the
ribbon in a cold mild detergent to which a bit of salt has been added. (The salt
will minimize the chance of the dye running). Rinse gently but well and air dry
on a flat surface, then iron with a soft cloth or brown paper cover to prevent
an unnatural sheen from occurring. With very old ribbons in suspect condition, the only recourse is to lightly press them with a warm (not hot) iron,
once again using a cloth or plain brown paper as a barrier. Preserve them at
all cost – a frayed, battered piece of antique ribbon is better than no ribbon at
all.
Some collectors treat their medals with a clear shellac, after cleaning.
This is ideal for those who live where air containing salt from the sea plays
havoc with metal. However, central heating and pollution cause noticeable
changes on this protective coating of shellac. The metal beneath becomes
discolored after a few years. The new acetate coatings like varathane are
somewhat better but this same problem does occur and besides this product
can be seen to coat the badge somewhat thicker than with the shellac and
may give an appearance not wanted by the collector. Regardless of the material used, either can be simply removed by a simple immersion in boiling water. For articles with a duller finish, such as some insignia, a coating of varathane will often impart a sheen inconsistent with the original surface of the
article and as such should be used advisedly.
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Insignia
Be very careful indeed in your approach to cleaning badges. Many
specimens have been ruined irretrievably by enthusiastic collectors who have
removed the original finish of bronze of black. The main criterion is to obtain
a specimen in, as near as possible, its original condition when issued. When
you obtain a new item for you collection, first of all examine it carefully and
determine what the original finish was, remembering that a very high polish is
not what you require. The reverse side of the badge will help a great deal in
deciding its original form.
As mentioned, the patina retained by the badge over the years is
often attractive, as well as being a diagnostic feature of authenticity (it is hard
to fake). Notwithstanding this, many collectors polish their badges. This is a
personal choice and once again, let your conscience prevail. Indeed, cleaning
should only be carried out if the badges are suffering badly from verdigris
(corrosion). In chronic cases of verdigris, it is advisable to leave the affected
badge soaking in a neat solution of lemon juice. Brushing well with an old
toothbrush will soon remove the offensive green deposit and a wash in warm,
soapy water will quickly neutralize the acid. Staining can also be removed in
the same way, but it may be enough to give the metal a brush with a brassbristled brush. What works particularly well in removing staining and polishing at the same time, with little apparent ill-effects is Worcestershire Sauce.
Steer clear of abrasives – metal polishes such as Brasso or Duraglit
may be good enough for brass-hilted bayonets and swords, or brass and copper powder flask, but these cleaners tend to leave a deposit of filth in the fine
relief work of badges and the polishing effects of the latter cleaner in particular is quite short-lived, leaving the badge eventually in a much worse appearance than before. Of course back in the days of army ‘bull-shine’, it was the
done thing to burnish badges and brass-work to a fine old state. The results of
this zealousness are now little more than highly polished pieces of metal
showing little of the original detail of design. All one can do with these now is
to polish them lightly with a wadding cleaner, and brush out any residue from
the crevices. In general, take the same care as with medals to ensure minimal
wear on the item.
Uniforms and accessories
Take care in cleaning these types of artifacts as the material has
often weakened with age and will readily tear or disintegrate under vigorous
cleaning. Generally restrict cleaning to a light brushing with a soft clothing
brush. In the case of heavy staining, wet and blot the affected area repeatedly
13
(first test the effect of water on an unseen portion of the article to see if water staining will occur). If total cleaning is required, it is advised to dry clean
rather than using water, however check with a local museum to see which dry
cleaning store does their work. There should be an appreciation on the part of
the dry cleaning staff to do their work gently and minimize the use of harsh
dry cleaning chemicals.
With canvas items, a strong brushing is usually sufficient to remove
most dirt and residue. Careful use of water may also be in order, but water
can have a tendency to stain so use it with care. Never use a hard brush as it
will affect the surface of the canvas.
In cleaning the various metals and finishes the following hints may be
of assistance, should the more benign methods already mentioned fail to
work.
Bronze of bronzed artifacts
Bronze or bronzed insignia, and old copper or coated copper items
should not be cleaned at all. If the badge or button seems to be clogged or
coated with a layer of dirt or is stained, a light application of machine oil
should be rubbed gently over it and then removed with a soft cloth. When
much of the finish has been removed it is very difficult to replace it unless you
have the correct powder. A semi-matt brown paint of the right shade would
be hard to find. Where much of the original finish has been retained a dark
brown boot polish will add some color.
Gilt
If very dirty use a small amount of a mixture of liquid detergent and
strong ammonia. Apply this with a small silver brush and wash if off carefully
with a gentle brushing in warm water. Dry and polish with a clean cloth. Do
this in a well-ventilated area.
Silver
Use a silver dip wherever possible, but if necessary to remove heavy
staining, use a silver brush and apply plate powder dissolved in a small
amount of methylated spirit (alcohol), or rub with pure lemon juice on cotton
wool. For stubborn corners play out the end of a match stick and use to apply
mixture.
Brass or Gilding Metal
Prepare a weak solution of one part sulpheric acid (H2SO4) to twenty
parts of water. Add the acid to the water to avoid unpleasant results. Soak the
item in this solution for thirty minutes to one hour. Then gently scrub in warm
14
water using a brass wire brush to remove the deposit which will have formed.
Always wear rubber gloves whilst handling the object to protect your hands
against the effect of the acid solution. Finish with a soft brush using liquid
detergent and warm water. Dry well.
White Metal
The same instructions as for gilding metal but do not use the same
solution you have already used for gilding metal or brass for it may cause
deposits of copper to stain the white metal. Use a fresh batch. When faced
with the problem of an artifact which consist of both white and gilding metal
or brass, treat it with the solution which has been used for whichever metal
forms the major part of the specimen.
Blackened brass
If much of the original finish is removed, use patience and skill in
replacing it. On a badge where the finish has been completely removed, spray
carefully with a matt-finished paint. Blackstove or boot polish can also be
used to refurbish such badges. Remember that some blackened badges have
had the high points polished purposely to bring into relief the design or battle
honors. This should be preserved, so any cleaning will require great care and
skill.
Enamel
Using tweezers or long nosed pliers hold the badge in the steam of a
gently boiling kettle. Then, with great care, clean with a mild soap or detergent in warm water. Any vigorous action is to be avoided. Make sure when
doing this that the small discs or rings which carry the enamel backing are
distorted to ensure that the enamel is not cracked or loosened.
Varnishes and coatings
Old copal varnishes are apt to turn yellow brown and are most difficult to remove. It is preferable to leave the specimen without a coating of any
king and to frame them behind glass. Sealing the frames as much as possible
is the best preservative. They should be kept in a warm and smoke free atmosphere and will then last for many years. Alcohol or acetone will remove
the coating if desired, as will usually boiling water.
Repairs
If you are not experienced, let a qualified person with a jewelry background or specific background do your repairs for you, even if this means
sending the item out of province or country to a qualified practitioner. A good
repair job will usually not affect the price unduly but a poor job will very definitely have a major negative impact. Also don’t try to overdo it and return the
15
item to an “as new” condition. There is a lot to be said for leaving the patina
untouched that has developed over the life of the article.
In the case of medals, the most common repairs are to the shanks.
With insignia, about the only repair job that need ever be considered is the
repair or replacement of missing fasteners on the reverse. Once again, let
someone who knows their job do the work. Should repairs to the fasteners be
necessary remember any heat treatment will weaken them, especially if more
than one type of material is present, so try to avoid this if possible.
Displays/Presentation/Security
As a collection is built up there comes the time to display it and this
can be a problem since the display will often be changing as new or better
examples are acquired. (It is advisable not to frame your badges until you
have sufficient to make a reasonable display, otherwise you will create extra
work, dismantling and rearranging, thus wasting the time, trouble and resources already spent on it). In the past many good badges have been ruined
by the bending, removal, drilling and nailing of the sliders and lugs and this
must be avoided at all cost. Cloth insignia can be stitched to a material backing although this also causes wear and possibly damage.
Most collectors generally do not follow formal rules of display. Rather collections are mounted as resources, sense of taste and experience dictate. The amount of space available also influences the final product. For example, mounting artifacts in glazed picture frames is all very fine if the room
is large enough, but it can be a little imposing to be constantly under the gaze
of what would be a hobby and not a chore.
Consider you color scheme carefully, particularly of the room in
which you intend to mount your display, and avoid making it dark or dingy.
Given that most collectors have spent their limit in acquiring artifacts, they are often limited in the quality of display materials. With a little
ingenuity, however very effective presentations can be made using scrounged
and unusual materials. Watch what other people and organizations display
materials – not only military artifacts but other things. Use your imagination.
If you like it, what does it matter about others?
In terms of medals, there are a variety of methods of display – only a
couple of which are mentioned here. Probably the first choice the collector
must make is to display medals singly or in groups. This would be followed by
the method of hanging the medals. Currently, and assuming you have ribbons
16
for the medals, there are two methods – the swing mound and court mount.
The former method is the traditional way of suspending medals. With this, a
group of medals are suspending from a specifically designed metal bracket
(which can be purchased from medal dealers) over and through which the
medal ribbon is sewn. Approximately two to three inches of ribbon are allowed to show and the metal part of the medal is allowed to hang freely from
the upper fastened edge. Court mounted medals, on the other hand, are securely fastened to a rigid backing so that no movement is possible. With this
method also the length of the ribbon showing is somewhat longer – up to four
inches and is continued not only above the metal portion of the medal but
also over and down behind the medal itself. This method of suspension first
showed itself about twenty years ago but has since become very popular. In
displaying older medals, the collector must decide which method to utilize
because prior to World War I, medals were never court mounted. If authenticity in all regards is important, then the swing mount method should be adopted. Also in the case of medals with hard to find ribbons, court mounted medals use much more ribbon than the original swing mount.
The last thing to be aware of when displaying medals is that there is
an order priority or precedence to medals, which is reflected in relative position of medals in a group. Those of higher precedence are situated to the left
of lower order decorations. To a veteran collector, nothing stands out clearer
than an improperly situated medal within a group.
Many collectors display medals in a ready-made cabinet comprised
of thin drawers lined with green baize. Although this is handy for the collector
faced with a space shortage, some collectors prefer to display medals in
glazed frames. This rather effective and picturesque way of showing war medals is most rewarding for, with the many a various combinations of ribbon
color, the whole display can be a beautiful adornment to a room. Peg-board is
a favorite frame backing material as it can be purchased in small off-cuts and
the ready-punched holes make it easier to sew (safer, neater and more professional-looking than most other alternatives) the ribbons to a cloth backing
and then through into the holes behind.
Tacks can also be used to mount medals, but unless you purchase
the all-brass variety, a certain amount of rust or corrosion could be picked up
on the ribbon. If you decide to use tacks take care to mount the medal carefully. Failure to do so makes for an unsightly pin-head on all the ribbons displayed. Take each medal to be displayed and lay it in position. Gently flip it on
its back, stretching the medal out to its full length of ribbon. Press in the pin
about ½ inch from the ribbon end and then return the medal to its proper
position by bringing the ribbon right over the pin-head, thus concealing it
17
from view. A word of warning – ensure the tack can be pushed into the backing easily and that the backing will hold the weight of the medal. Having to
force the tack into backing or having it fall out could result in the ribbon being
torn or the medal damaged. Once the medals are correctly in position and the
small identification labels installed, finish the display off by pasting a piece of
thick brown paper over the back of the frame. This effectively combats the
ever-present danger of dust filtering in through the back, and damaging both
ribbons and medals.
To display insignia or other related items, most collectors tend to use
frames, with or without glass. Cover a suitably-sized piece of cardboard,
‘foamcore’ or other similar material (of sufficient thickness to carry the
weight) with an appropriate material ranging from velvet to hessian
(broadcloth). Fasteners can then be gently pressed into the backing or if the
badge is fitted with a slider this can be slipped into the material. The backing
with attached badges can then be slipped into the frame. This system should
cause no damage to the badges and can be very easily changed if new badges
are acquired or the theme is changed. Ensure the covering does not wrinkle
by affixing the material evenly to the back and make the holes large enough
for the shanks to penetrate without damage. Generally the same procedure
can be used, however it is not as crucial to minimize dust as the insignia are
generally metal (the exception is, of course, cloth shoulder flashes and patches and embroidered badges).
Another method is to mount insignia on velvet or cloth-covered cardboard trays which are cut to fit a drawer, cupboard or filing cabinet. The cards
can then be easily stored away, discreetly awaiting the discerning and admiring eye of the enthusiast – even if it is only that of the collections proud owner!
In general displays, a few suggestions for consideration:
1. Be flexible in your design as most private collectors are notorious for
contuinually changing displays – your probably will also.
2. Pay attention to the color scheme so that, when hung, the frames harmonize with the general décor of the room or setting.
3. A visit to other collectors or to military museums and a study of how their
displays are mounted, and how the appearance strikes you, will help you
to make the most of your collection.
4. Framing is a matter of personal choice governed by many factors – not
the least being cost. Suitable frames can be obtained or made cheaply
and adapted to your own requirements. Search your basement and visit
shops and sale rooms as necessary. Garage sales and flea markets will
often sell old pictures with frames at low prices. Throw the picture away;
18
save the frame. If possible, focus on one type of suitable frame construction.
5. It is an advantage to have a ‘dummy run’ by laying out the specimens you
intend to frame. This way you can try different strategies of organization
before securing the artifacts.
6. Make certain that all articles are positioned flat against the surface and
secured. This can be done by using split wire pins and packing the space
between them and the back of the board with small pieces of card or
cork. Prongs or tangs can be held by strips of adhesive tape and packing
where needed. Double-sided sticky tape is another possibility as well as
small blobs of the carious proprietary materials. If these are used it is as
well to check that there is no potential chemical reaction between cloth
and adhesives and that it can be removed without and adverse effect.
Sew the items on if necessary.
7. Leave sufficient room between the mounting board and any glass covering
to take the deepest of the artifacts and, when fixed to the backing, there
is equally sufficient room at the back to cover protrusions with another
piece of card (if you want a ‘finished’ backing to your frame). When completed, seal with adhesive tape and brown paper to render the display
dustproof (if that is important).
8. Ensure beforehand that the frame brackets, both in the wall and on the
frame, are strong enough to carry the weight, which will be surprisingly
great, and the cord or wire is also safe.
9. Color schemes for the backing material are a matter of personal choice.
White or light khaki will reflect the light and show off medals and badges
well, but red and blue are also very popular. For Scottish badges a tartan
background is suitable with the Royal Stewart much preferred .
10. If labeling or descriptions are to be used, general conventions are that
both upper and lower case letters are more effective and should be at
least 24 font and bold. It is also helpful to plan any written text in the display so that the reader will not spend more than 10-20 seconds on any
one description. The use of the computer and double-sided tape make the
labeling process quite easy these days, however make sure you measure
and level each label prior to sticking them onto the display. The resulting
mess if a crooked or miss-centered label is removed often necessitates
redoing the frame.
One last consideration is the question of security – both for public
display and home. The individual collector usually does not have resources to
install sophisticated security devices, so strategies must be developed to minimize risk.
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With public displaying, sufficient security for most circumstances can
be maintained with a few simple precautions such as placing a rope barrier in
front of the display or putting the artifacts under glass. Try to design your
presentation in such a way that any attempt to remove an item will bring the
entire works crashing down on the individual. And always ensure adequate
security is in place should you have to leave your display overnight in a public
area.
The home environment is a different proposition because this is
where your collection spends most of its life and is handled the most often.
Most collectors have either purchased a basic security system (in extreme
cases it has been known for collectors to install a completely vaulted room
with alarm systems, climatic control and heavy locking devices) or put their
collections way from view under lock and key. If the collection is out on display, the normal precautions that you use for the rest of your property are
usually sufficient.
Although the individual cost of your artifacts may be small, the value
of a collection soon builds up and as such they should be insured in some
manner. A full description of the badges should be kept, preferably with photographs. In defining the artifacts, a catalogue number from one of the standard reference books is valuable as a good identifier. If a photograph is contemplated it should be remembered that a reasonable close-up picture is
preferable to a general view of the number of artifacts. All this will aid in the
ultimate recovery of lost or stolen items in that event and make dealings with
insurance companies much easier. When dealing with insurance agents, determine up front what criteria they value you collection, what value they will
allow if lost, damaged or stolen and what steps you should take to ensure any
settlement would be handled with the least amount of hassle.
In closing, probably the most important security measure is not to
unduly advertise the whereabouts or value of your collection to people you
do not know. The trick is to separate the collection from the collector.
Conclusion
It is our hope the foregoing will be of some value to you as you contemplate entering the aera of military collecting. While it is not possible to
include every piece of information that would be of use (even if we knew every item of wisdom – which we don’t), it is hoped this summary will offer some
insights and get you off to a good start. Should you wish further information
or advice on any of the included topics or others, please do not hesitate to
20
contact the Calgary Military Historical Society. We would be only too pleased
to offer assistance if we can.
Calgary Military Historical Society
P.O. Box 205, Stn. M
Calgary, Alberta T2P 2H6
Appendix
‘Standard’ Categories of Military Collecting (at a fairly general level)
Ammunition – small arms, artillery and armoured, infantry, paramilitary
Art – original, prints, lithographs, trench art
Buttons and fasteners
Cloth Insignia – shoulder flashes, unit patches, commemorative flashes, flags
and banners, other insignia
Edged Weapons – swords, bayonets, knives
Firearms – rifles, muskets, handguns
Instruments and equipment – survey, navigation, communication, medical,
etc.
Medals and ribbons – gallantry, service, campaign, tribute (e.g. homecoming,
Veterans recognition), etc.
Paper artifacts – letters, stamps, envelops, propaganda, passes, postcards,
military money, etc.
Personal items – toiletries, cutlery, condoms, ration cards, period items, etc.
Photographs
Re-enactment materials
Sweetheart brooches and gifts including cigarette tins, gifts or appreciation,
etc.
Uniforms and accessories – kit, webbing, packs, helmets, headdress, etc.
Vehicles – soft skinned, armoured, specialty, parts and accessories
Miscellaneous – anything else that can be imagined but not included above.
Commonly Used Abbreviations
QVC
QC
KC
BZE,BZ
BR
BI/MET/BIM
CPR, CU, C
ENG
G, GM
HM
HP
Queen Victoria Crown
Queen’s Crown
King’s Crown
Bronze
Brass
Bi-metal
Copper
Engraved
Gilt, gilded, gilding metal
Hall marked
Helmet Plate
ORIG
OBV
RES
REPRO
REV
SUSP
STER, S, AG
S/P, AG/P
VOL
VIC
WM
Original
Obverse
Restored
Reproduction
Reverse
Suspender
Sterling Silver
Silver plated
Volunteer
Victorian
White Metal
LM
MISC
S/G
WBP
IMP
S/T
BUL
SBP
PKD
C/W
OFFRS
NI
AL
Lug Missing
Miscellaneous
Silver and gilt
waist belt plate
Impressed
Shoulder title
Bullion
Sword belt plate
Pickled
Complete with
Officers
Nickel
Aluminum
LR
E
AU
OR
WWI
WWII
PR
EMBR
CRM
XBP
S/O
W/O
VAR
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Lug replacement
Enamel
Gold
Other ranks
World War One
World War Two
Pair
Embroidered
Confirmed
Cross belt plate
Slip on
Without
Variety, variant
Significant Canadian and International Military Collectors’ Societies
Military Collectors’ Club of Canada (MCC of C) ($25/year) (confirmed)
BOX 9 – 525 London ST. Winnipeg, MB. R2K 2Z4
Canadian Society of Military Medals and Insignia (CSMMI) ($30/year)
(confirmed)
640 St-Andrew Street West, Fergus, Ontario, Canada, N1M 1P6
Orders and Medals Research Society (OMRS) (UK £25, Overseas £30)
(confirmed)
PO Box 6195, Royal Leamington Spa, CV31 9JU
American Society of Military Insignia Collectors (ASMIC) ($30.00 US/year)
(confirmed)
Orders and Medals Society of America (OMSA) ($50-75US/year) (confirmed)
Crown Imperial (£11/year)
37 Wolsey Close, Southall, Middlesex, UB2 4NQ England
Chute and Dagger ($18US/year)
5009 N. 24 Street Arlington, Virginia 22207, USA
Military Historical Society
There are also many local and focused military history and collectors’ associations throughout Canada, the United States and Britain – too numerous to
mention here.
Significant Military Museums, Archives and Libraries with General Focus –
Canada
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Personal Records Centre, National Archives of Canada, Tunney’s Pasture,
Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0N2
The National Archives of Canada is the official repository for records
of the government of Canada which are judged to have lasting historical significance. It also acquires and preserves private papers and records of Canadians whose lives and activities have made important contributions to the development of Canada, its history, economy and culture. Records include correspondence, manuscripts, data files, maps, plans, drawings, paintings, photographs, microfilm, sound recordings and film. The archives’ collection reflects
Canada’s total military involvement, at home and abroad, in the prosecution
of its wars.
The Government Archives Division is responsible for records of government departments and agencies and include administration of defense
policy and strategies for carrying out such policy. The Media Division contains
art, photography (over 500,000 photos from World War II alone), maps, plans
and audio-visual records. Lastly, the Manuscript Division is responsible for
textual archives from private sources. These also include private papers, diaries, regimental, squadron and responsible for textual archives from private
sources. In addition, this department can supply service records and metal
entitlements for over 2 million former Canadian Armed Forces personnel,
providing certain rules of privacy and disclosure are met – in general you can
request copies of your own service records, those of an immediate relative if
he/she is dead (if you are a spouse, sibling or child), the records of anyone else
if you can provide proof that they have been dead for at least twenty years, or
if still alive, you have a written authorization from them. In making request for
such information, be sure to include proof of circumstances as explained
above, and as much service details of the person as you can. Information particularly helpful are full name, date of birth, service number, unit(s) served in,
dates of enlistment and discharge. If you do not have this information, try to
give other pertinent material such as parents’ names, places and/or date of
enlistment, etc. that would be helpful to the archivist.
To order a record or information, you can either formally request the
material using an ‘Access to information’ form, obtained from libraries or government information centers, or you can apply informally by letter. For the
private collector, often the informal route is the best. Firstly, it is usually free
(apart from copying charges that may be levied) and easier to accomplish,
however the formal route (cost $5) is usually faster in response and will ensure
you get complete records should you be entitled to them and they are available for access.
23
If you choose to visit the Archives personally, the following may be of
use:
1.
Phone first to determine hours of operation, method of registration, accessibility and classification of records needed and get an idea of how
long it will take to do the research (it varies from person to person however the archivist can give some suggestions on how to save time).
2.
Be sure on the first visit, to leave sufficient time for registration, or if possible, register by mail beforehand.
3.
Take pencils – they will be the only writing instrument allowed
4.
Plan on not smoking, eating or drinking within the archives and research
areas.
5.
Leave most of your personal belongings at home – no briefcases, etc. will
be allowed within the research area (there is a secure place outside to
leave such material).
6.
When carrying out research, it is a good practice to go through one record
box at a time and try to ensure material removed is places back in the
same order. Use cotton gloves (supplied).
Other methods of access, if you cannot visit the archives personally
include: inter-lending service (through libraries or universities and college),
research by mail (slow but possible usually at little cost), research by phone
(best for limited material only), utilization of professional researchers (rates
usually are around $15-20/hr plus expenses)
Canadian War Museum, 330 Sussex Drive, Ottawa, Ontario K1G 3V3
Royal Canadian Military Institute Museum and Library, 426 University Avenue, Toronto, Ontario
M5G 1S9
Glenbow Museum and Archives, 130 – 9 Avenue SE Calgary, Alberta
There are approximately 130 museums, including most regiments,
with significant military collections across Canada. Many have accompanying
archives. A complete listing is available from the Department of National Defense under the authority of the office of the Director of Ceremonial in Ottawa.
Ask for the publication on the “Task Force of Military Collections in Canada”.
Significant Military Museums, Archives and Libraries with General Focus –
United Kingdom
24
Public Record Office, Ruskin Avenue, Kew, Richmond TW9 4DU, England
National Army Museum, Royal Hospital Road, Chelsea, London, England
SW3 4HT
Imperial War Museum, Lambeth Road, London, England SE1 6HZ
Royal Air Force Museum, Graham Park Way, Hendon, London NW9 5LL
Royal Navy Museum, HM Naval Base, Portsmouth, Hampshire P01 3LR
As with Canada, there are hundreds of smaller focused museums and
archives across Britain. There has been a published listing of these places in
recent years which a good British Book seller should be able to put you on to.
Standard (Popular) Military Artifact and Collecting References
Not meant to be exhaustive, this list is reasonably representative of
the most popular sources of artifact information. Books on Canadian military
subjects are being published at an ever-increasing rate and it is certain that as
these new volumes come onto the market, they will take an equal place
among those listed below. Also not included is specific information to be found
in official Armed Forces orders and records.
Canadian (also British and Commonwealth in some cases)
Abbot and Tamplin. British Gallantry Awards
-authors are two of the most knowledgeable experts on medals in the world –
British authors
Army Historical Section. The Regiments and Corps of the Canadian Army, Vol.
1, Queen’s Printer, 1964- Out of print but the “official” summary of each
unit’s lineage – very good.
Babin, L.L. Cap Badges of the Canadian Expeditionary Force, 1914-1920, Illustrated. Standard WWI
- Reference, not complete but close, hand-drawn illustrations – not always as
clear as they might be, well organized – U.S author
Blatherwick, J. Canadian Decorations and Medals
- good resource—Canadian author
Brooker, C. Canadian Cap Badges of World War 1
- out of print, hand-drawn but very clear illustrations of cap badges only, gives
market value estimation which is generally conservative but accurate in most
cases, well organized, used Babin classification – American Author
Medal News. Medal Yearbook, Annual
- Good complete source, updated annually with current market value estimations – British Author
25
Cox, R. Military Badges of the British Empire 1914-18
- Comprehensive summary with many of the badges shown, very expensive,
hard to find, especially good for WWI Canadian artillery cap badges – British
Author
Cross, W.K. The Charlton Price Guide to First World War Corps – in press
Cross, W.K. The Charlton Price Guide to First World War Canadian Infantry
Badges
- Complete source of cap, collar and shoulder title badges, hand drawn but
clear illustrations, gives current market value estimation, well organized – Canadian Author.
Dornbusch. The Canadian Army, 1855-1965, Hope Farm Press
-Out of print, hard to find, organization is chaotic and illogical, hard to follow
but contains a lot of lineage information on Canadian military units, no illustrations – American author
Edwards, A.C. Canadian Army Formation Signs
- Insignia and its history, quite complete, hand drawn but very clear illustrations and well organized – US author
Hampson, W. Canadian Flying Service, Emblems and Insignia 1914-1984.
- For the most part, organization sometimes hard to follow but a very good
source – Canadian author
Hughes, G.W. A Marchpast of the Canadian Army Past and Present, 3 vol. p.p.
1993
- Very large compilation of unit histories including insignia, battle honors, lineages, orders of battle and other pertinent details, well organized and for the
most part clearly and simply stated; a few errors are present but given the size
of the work , these are quite minor, can be obtained from the author, expensive – Canadian author.
Historical Arms Series, Museum Restoration Service
- A good series of pamphlet publications dealing with a series of topics, mostly
weapons – various authors
Wilkinson, F. Badges of the British Army
- Incomplete overview but gives a flavor of the hobby, British author and a
recognized authority
Mazeas, D. Canadian Militia Badges Pre-1914
- Very complete source with life-sized hand drawn illustrations that are generally clear, shows cap, collar and shoulder badges plus helmet plates and occasional belt badges, very expensive to buy, well organized – French author
Mazeas, D. Canadian Badges 1900-1914 with 1920-1950 Supplement
- As above except much less expensive and illustrations are usually smaller
than life-size (dimensions sometimes given)
Mazeas, D. Canadian Badges 1920-1950
- As above
Meeks, J.F. Over the Top
26
-limited edition publication now out of print and hard to find, very good, well
organized and complete summary of unit histories and cap badges of the infantry battalions of the Canadian Expeditionary Force, WWI, well-crafted photo illustrations throughout – Canadian author
Rosen, A and Martin, P. CEF Military Cap Badges of the World War I
- Price guide and catalogue of WWI badges, hand drawn illustrations, and well
organized, current market value estimations (appear more accurate for the
central Canadian collector than those in the west)
Ross, D and R. Chartrand. Catalogueing Military Uniforms, A publication of
the New Brunswick Museum
- Good summary discussion of uniforms, their care and display, gives a good
glossary of uniform terms, probably available from the museum directly – Canadian authors
Sexton, J.A. A Guide to Canadian Shoulder Titles 1939-1985
- As for Edwards – US author?
Spinks. Catalogue of British Orders, Decorations and Medals, Annual
-good standard source of medals, etc., well organized with current market
value estimations
Stewart, C.H. Concise Lineage of the Canadian Army, 1855 to Date
-out of print, getting harder to find, two versions (a summary edition and a
more complete one), essentially no illustrations but good information gather
from a number of sources, quite well organized- Canadian author.
Stewart, C.H. Overseas – The Lineages and Insignia of the Canadian Expeditionary Force, 1914-1919
-out of print, hard to find, gives photo illustrations of most Canadian WWI
badges (although photos tend to be somewhat small for clear study), a good
source for the badge collector – Canadian author
Summers, J.L. Tangled Web: Canadian Infantry Accouterments 1855-1985
-has quickly become the standard reference source for this material, well organized and clearly illustrated with line drawings and photos, a very detailed
discussion of the history and development of Canadian webbing – Canadian
author, still believed to be in print but quite expensive.
Thompson, R. Cap Badges of the CAF, RCAF, RCN, volume 1
-a standard source of this type of material, well organized with photo illustrations – Canadian author
Thompson, R. Cap Badges of the Canadian Officers’ Training Corps, volume 2
-same as above
Thompson, R. Cap Badges & Insignia of the Canadian Army, 1953-1973, volume 3
-as above, the main source and almost the only source for badges of this period
Tripp, Canadian Army Overseas
-a summary of Canadian WWII cap badges and the overall organization of the
27
Canadian Army Overseas, a good secondary source, photo illustrated
throughout – Canadian author
United Kingdom
Any text be W. Carman
Abbot and Tamplin. British Gallantry Awards
-mentioned above
Churchill, C. and Westlake, R. British Army Collar Badges, 1881 to the present
Medal New. The Medal Yearboo, annual
Davis, LD. British Army Cloth Insignia, 1940 to present
Dress Regulations for the Officers of the British Army, Mounted Corps and
Infantry, 1660-1968. London, 1969.
Edwards, T. Regimental Badges
-a reasonable summary overview
Fortescue, J. History of the British Army. London, 1899-1930
Frederick, J. Lineage Book of the British Army, Mounted Corps and Infantry,
1660-1968. London, 1969
Kipling, A. and King, H. Headdress Badges of the British Army. 2 volumes.
-the standard text of British cap badges, very complete and very expensive,
reprints are now available.
May, W. and Carman, WY. Badges and Insignia of the British Armed Services
Parkyn, HG. Shoulder Belt Plates and Buttons.
Ripley, H. Buttons of the British Army.
Joslin, E. Standard Catalogue of British Orders, Decorations and Medals.
Spinks. Catalogue of British Orders, Decorations and Medals, annual
Vernon’s Collectors Guide to Orders, Medals and Decorations
Wilkinson, F. Badges of the British Army.
Military Collecting – General
Gaylor, J. Military Badge Collecting. London 1971
Wilkinson, F. Collecting Military Antiques
Wilkinson, F. Militaria
There can also be found specialized sources for specific and finite
areas of military collecting. These tend to be quickly discovered by the interested individual. The sources listed above tend to be those that are most
widely used and useful to many collectors.
The ’Men-at-Arms Series of booklet, published by Osprey Publishing
Company, London, cover an enormous range of military topics – there are
more than 250 titles. Each volume is devoted to some aspect of military history, regiments, campaigns or equipment. They comprise a brief history and
details of the particular topic, black and white photographs and some color
plates. In general, their standards are high although, since no researcher in
infallible, there are occasional errors.
28
There are also many magazines and other publications devoted to
various aspects of the topic and most public libraries can supply details of
current publications. Some established publications that may be of interest
are: Guns and Weapons, Men-at-Arms, Military Hobbies Illustrated, Military
Illustrated, Military Modeling, the Bulletin of the Military Historical Society.
Common Shapes of Crowns seen in Commonwealth Military Insignia
The Queen Victoria Crown comes in several similar patterns but is readily recognized by its flat-topped or square appearance. The Tudor Crown has been
adopted by Edward VII, George V, Edward VIII, George VI.
Typical Royal Cyphers
29
These represent the major cyphers used by various British Monarchs. While
variations are common, they tend to revolve around the common themes
shown below.
Another method of determining the nationality is to look for a broad arrow
device stamped or printed on the artifact. This signifies the article to be the
property of the war office of Great Britain. In Canada, the broad arrow is still
present however usually a “C” is included to designate the article as Canadian
military issue. Other countries such as Imperial Germany would use an eagle,
while Nazi material often had a swastika.
Typically Canadian Insignia Fastener Patterns
Terms Commonly Used in Grading Condition of Military Artifacts
1. Mint – As issued, in pristine condition
2.
Extra or Extremely Fine Plus (XF+) – Almost mint, some faint surface
markings or hair line scratching
3.
Extra or Extremely Fine (EF) – First class condition, with some slight
scratches or abrasions, no sign of wear
4.
Very fine (VF) – Surfaces clean and distinct, some scratching or contact
marking, slight wear to highlights.
5.
Fine (F) – surface clean and distinct, but showing signs or heavier wear,
some “dints”, contact markings, abrasions, scratching, or a combination
of all. Highlights a little worn.
6.
Very good (VG)
7.
Good (G)
8.
Worn – surfaces worn, either by neglect or heavy polishing, heavily
abrased, and or, contact marked, highlights deeply worn.
9.
Edge Knocks (E/K) – Abrasion or damage to edge or article, due to drop-
30
ping or miss-handling; most often used for medals.
10. Brooch Marked – Medal having been mounted for a wear as a brooch,
but later reconvened back to its original form, but the marks of the
mounting are still visible.
11. Pitting – Damage caused to the surfaces due to contact, corrosion, or
faulty metal, casting or striking.
Some Canadian Manufacturers of Canadian Military Insignia – Past and Present
O.B. Allen
Jackson
George H. Lees
McDougal
D.A. Reeson
Roden Brothers
Service Supply Company
Tiptaff Ltd.
Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Co. Ltd.
Hicks
D.E. Black
Hicks
D.E. Black
Brown
F.W. Coates
Creighton’s
Dingwall
Eatons Ltd.
J.R. Gaunt and Son Ltd.
Wheatley
Jacoby, Rosenthal
Kinnear & Desterre
Maybees
Patterson Brothers
Reynolds
William Scully
Stanley & Aylward
Wellings
J.B. Bailey
Birks Ltd.
Caron Brothers
Chauncey Maybees
Cooke
Dingley
Dominion Regalia
Ellis Brothers
Air Observers in the First World War - Stanley Caws and Alfred Koch
By Erin Hoar (3460)
The primary role of the Royal Flying Corps (RFC) during the First
World War was to support the ground forces through artillery cooperation,
tactical and photographic reconnaissance. Through necessity, specialized aircraft and equipment were developed along with improved tactics and training
which provided an airborne resource capable of providing battlefield information, thus making the role of the air observer a vital one.
Canada did not have an independent air force during the First World
War, therefore recruits would enlist in the British military’s air arm. There
were approximately 11,400 who registered with the Royal Flying Corps (RFC),
with 423 of those from Alberta. Two Alberta men, Lieutenant Stanley Winther
Caws and Lieutenant Alfred Michael Koch, were among these recruits in the
31
First World War. Caws and Koch both initially enlisted in the 19th Alberta Dragoons, but later transferred to the RFC and became Air Observers. This article
will show the contributions of two Edmonton area members who served in
the Royal Flying Corps in order to recognize the often over looked, but vital
role of the airborne observer.
Stanley Caws was originally from the Isle of
Wight, England and moved to Alberta in the early 1900s.
He was a prospector by trade, having previously served in
the Boer War as a member of the cavalry unit, Paget’s
Horse. At the time that the First World War had erupted,
Caws was on a prospecting expedition in North West Canada, but abandoned his mission to offer his services to
the country. He initially volunteered for the 19th Alberta
Dragoons in 1914 and was transferred to the RFC in 1915.
Stanley became a Pilot in the No.10 Squadron, No. 1 Wing,
flying BE2cs.
Lieutenant Caws
Image from
Isle-of-wightmemorials.org.uk
At 36 years old, Lieutenant Stanley Caws was considered to be of
advanced age to serve as an active Pilot in the Royal Flying Corps. He was mature, had previous military experience and became a role model to his fellow
comrades. Caws became known for his good-humoured antics, such as snatching up the table knives and throwing the cutlery into the wooden doors of the
mess room during meals. This behaviour undoubtedly had an unforgettable
impact on his colleagues at a time when manners were much more structured. Stanley was a memorable character who made a strong impression on
the younger generation of service men that he worked alongside with. An RFC
member fondly described Caws as “a grand character, the life and soul of our
little party,” and a friend who was always there to give advice when needed.
On September 21, 1915, Caws was flying a reconnaissance sortie,
along with a British Observer, when their aircraft was attacked by numerous
German fighter planes. Caws and the Observer exhausted their ammunition in
an air battle that lasted fifteen minutes until Caws was shot dead 11,000 feet
up. He died at the age of 36 and was reported to be the first Canadian airman
to perish in action.
Lieutenant Stanley Caws was given a German military funeral with
honours, but his grave was destroyed by subsequent battles in the area. He is
commemorated at the Arras Memorial in France.
Alfred Koch was born in Switzerland and immigrated to Canada at a
young age. At the time of his enlistment in the First World War on September
23, 1914 he was a 20 year old student. He was a Trumpeter in the 19 th Alberta
32
Dragoons and departed for England with the 1st Cavalry
Squadron of the Canadian Expeditionary Force. By 1916,
Koch had transferred to the No. 6 Squadron as a Lieutenant
in the Royal Flying Corps, serving as an Air Observer in a
BE2.
Koch underwent 10 days of operations where he completed 11 reconnaissance sorties, all at a low altitude. He carried out these dangerous missions by attacking enemy
troops, disrupting their transport and he even dispersed an
Lieutenant Koch
entire enemy battalion. After completing a reconnaissance,
Image from
Theaerodrome.com Koch bombed an enemy location and was then attacked by
a patrolling opposition aircraft. Koch became wounded in
the attack and his fuel tanks were pierced, but managed to safely return his
aircraft to the base.
Later on, Koch became a member of the No. 70
Squadron as a fighter pilot and flew Sopwith Camels. He
completed his military service in the First World War
with 10 aerial victories. Lieutenant Alfred Koch was given
the Military Cross in late March of 1918 for his service in
the First World War. He was awarded the medal “for
conspicuous gallantry and devotion to duty,” while
showing “splendid courage and initiative” during a sortie.
2014 marks a century since the outbreak of the
Military Cross
Image courtesy of
First World War and it remains important to recognize
Veterans
the contributions that individuals provided to their counAffairs Canada
try. Lieutenants Alfred Koch and Stanley Caws left behind interesting stories of their RFC wartime service and they will continue to
be remembered, as they have contributed greatly to Alberta’s rich Aviation
history.
This information was part of an exhibit that ran for the month of August at the Alberta Aviation Museum to commemorate 100 years since the
start of the First World War.
Written by Erin Hoar, Assistant Curator and John Liddle, Head Librarian with
the Alberta Aviation Museum.
Sources
Bashow, David L. Knights of the Air: Canadian Fighter Pilots in the First World
War. Toronto: McArthur & Co, 2000.
33
Canadian Great War Project. Accessed September 1, 2014.
www.canadiangreatwarproject.com/.
Library and Archives Canada. "Soldiers of the First World War: 1914-1918."
Accessed
September 1, 2014.
http://www.bac-lac.gc.ca/eng/discover/military-heritage/
first-world-war/first-world-war-1914-1918-cef/Pages/canadian-expeditionary
-force.aspx.
St Helen's Church. "Memorials & Monuments on the Isle of Wight: S. W. Caws
Memorial."Accessed September 1, 2014.
http://www.isle-of-wight-memorials.org.uk/churchessthelens_caws_sw.htm.
"Supplement to the London Gazette." The London Gazette, June 22, 1918,
supl.
30761, p. 7415.
https://www.thegazette.co.uk/London/issue/30761/supplement/7415.
The Aerodrome: Aces and Aircraft of World War I. Accessed September 1,
www.theaerodrome.com.
Veterans Affairs Canada. "Stanley Winther Caws: The Canadian Virtual War
Memorial."
Accessed September 1, 2014.
http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/remembrance/memorials/canadian-virtualwar-memorial/detail/743975.
Wise, S. F. Canadian Airmen and the First World War: The Official History of
the Royal
Canadian. Air Force. Vol. 1. Toronto: University of Toronto
Press, 1980.
34
My Adventure Back Into WW2 History
Forty years ago in Germany I met a WW2 veteran. My interest in wartime
history and his military service created a bond of lasting friendship.
My keen interest encouraged a personal sharing of details of his life as a
young boy in pre-war Germany which eventually led him to military service
for his country.
In the National Socialist regime existed a number of para-military organizations under the guise of sporting activities. At the age of fourteen he joined
the National Socialist Flying Corps and continued pursuing this interest at glider training camps in the Flight Section of the Hitler Youth organization. The
Air Force (Luftwaffe) considered these boys as their future pool of manpower.
In 1941, he was accepted for special training as a paratrooper
(Fallschirmjaeger). This was a voluntary branch of the air force considered an
elite service.
His military career literally took-off. He participated at battles in Crete (with
fellow paratrooper and famous world champion heavyweight boxer, Max
Schmeling); Russia; Italy; France (Dieppe and Normandy), and the Ardennes
Battle of the Bulge.
This year, enjoying good health at the age of ninety, he decided to make his
last trip to Italy to visit places where he had served. And, he wanted me to
accompany him!
This invitation was an honour and a unique chance of a lifetime to visit places
where he had fought seventy years ago and to see and hear what he had to
say about what happened back then – all from the perspective of a German
veteran who had actually been there.
The trip was done in his motor-home. He steadfastly refused my offers to
assist with the driving and remained behind the wheel for the entire 4,000
kilometers. I understood this as a sign of firm determination.
During the drive, he recounted details of his training and described incidents
which had occurred during his wartime service.
On site he pointed-out areas where he experienced serious action: direct
combat against Sherman tanks in Orsogna; and in Cassino where he and his
men had held a strategic point of defense dominating Monte Cassino on a hill
known as Point 593.
I admire this man as an honourable soldier with a true
sense of chivalrous conduct. His thinking and attitudes
were not warped by National Socialist ideals. He was a
soldier fighting in the service of his country.
He described an incident where Allied soldiers were taken
prisoner. I have read post-war articles by New Zealand
veterans involved in that incident which corroborate their
treatment in a professional, respectful manner of soldierly
conduct.
At the 70th anniversary commemorative ceremony held in the
German War Cemetery near Cassino, we met visitors from
New Zealand who had been asked to seek him out and speak
with him about this experience.
During his wartime service he was awarded both classes of
the Iron Cross for valour; the Close Combat Clasp (Bronze
Class) and the Wound Badge (Silver Class). He also qualified
for the Parachutist Badge and the Ground Combat Badge.
Over forty years of friendship he has
passed-on to me certain items of military regalia. On the occasion of this
visit, he paid me the ultimate compliment of handing over his complete
awards. I now have the honour to be
the custodian of
these historical
items.
John Burchell
Brule, N.S.
35
36
******COMING EVENTS******
January 2015
10-11th Saskatchewan Gun, Knife, Militaria & Police Show, Sat. 9:30am to
5:00pm Sun. 11:00am to 3:30pm, Evraz Turvey Centre, (Armour Rd.)
Regina Saskatchewan
(Jim, 306-546-3915)
18th
Canadian Society of Military Medals & Insignia, Burlington Seniors
Centre 2285 New St. Burlington Ontario, 9:00am to 12 noon
(Tim, 226-383-0695)
25th
Western Gun & Militaria Collectors, Woodstock fairgrounds 875 Nel
lis St. Woodstock, Ontario 7:30am to 1:00pm
(Monica 905-679-8812)
31st
Toronto Military Show (East) General Sikorski Hall, 1551 Stevenson
rd. North, Oshawa, Ontario 8:30am to 2:00pm $8.00 admission
(Angela 416-427-8379)
February 2015
1st
8th
15th
Orangeville Gun & Militaria Show, Orangeville Fairgrounds, Hockley
Valley Rd. Orangeville, Ontario. 7:30a.m. to 1:00p.m.
(Monica, 905-679-8812)
Hamilton Military Collectors Society, 630 Trinity Rd. Jerseyville
Ontario
(Marshall 705-754-2081)
Centre, 2285 New St. Burlington Ontario 9:00a.m. to noon
(Tim, 226-383-0695)
March 2015
1st
15th
21st
22nd
Ontario Arms Fair, Markham Fairgrounds, 10801 McCowan Rd.
Markham Ontario $7.00
(Allan, 416-579-4944)
Centre, 2285 New St. Burlington Ontario 9:00a.m. to noon
(Tim, 226-383-0695)
Toronto Military Show (West) Etobicoke Olympium, 590 Rathburn
Road, Etobicoke, Ontario, 8:30 to 2:00pm, $8.00 admission
(Angela, 416-427-9379)
Orangeville Gun & Militaria Show, Orangeville Fairgrounds, Hockley
Valley Rd. Orangeville, Ontario. 7:30a.m. to 1:00p.m.
29th
37
(Monica, 905-679-8812)
Manitoba Military Collectors Club of Canada Show, Sunova Centre
on the North Perimeter HWY. Winnipeg, MG. Show Opens at
10:00a.m. to 3:00p.m.
(John Zabarylo, 204-669-0871, [email protected])
Let me know of coming events in your area (date-time-place) in order to share
the information through our Journal.
Please keep in mind, in order to meet the publishing deadline, please have all
submissions in to Diane prior to the first day of the month preceding publication (February 1, May 1, August 1 and November 1).
Diane Migory #273
134 Scott Road
Toronto, ON M6M 3T6 (416) 653-6648
SWAP & SHOP
If you are interesting in posting an add in the Swap & Shop section of the
next issued Journal please email your ad (ten lines or less), with a remittance of $4.00, to the Shop & Swap Editor. A kind reminder to please
make all cheques payable to the Military Collectors Club of Canada as well
as your membership number.
WANTED:
3 Master P450 Trigger Locks.
Contact: Mike Zawislak (#3197)
[email protected]
(Exp. Summer 15)
WANTED:
WW1 Royal Newfoundland Regiment medals, Memorial Plaques,
paper, service badges etc.; WW1 Canadian Nursing Sister medals (single
"orphans" ok); 1939-1945 Newfoundland Volunteer War Service Medals; military mail/cards/ephemera/artifacts relating to WW2 Canadian POWs at Oflag
IVC (Colditz Castle) and Buchenwald; original autographs & paper associated
with Canadian Victoria Cross recipients. Only serious offers considered. Priced
photocopies/details in first instance welcomed and always appreciated.
Dean Mario (#2014), [email protected]
P.O. Box 342, Station Main, Saskatoon, SK S7K 3L3
38
(Exp. Summer 15’)
WANTED:
George VI Memorial Crosses to wartime casualties (KIA or DOW), RCAF/RAF
wartime flying logbooks. I am trying to reunite medal groups and need the
following: Military Medal & 1914 Trio to: 1680 Pte. G. Gouk Royal Highland
Regt.; Memorial Crosses to R/163668 F/S G. E. Smith, R/54056 Sgt. E. M. Leftly
& 115435 F/O A. W. J. Piers. Also NWC to Lt. E. H. T. Heward QOR: Canada
Korea to SD802403 R. P. Brown; WW1 Pairs to Lt. A. J. Knowling, 911858 Pte.
G. H. Knowling CMGC, Lt. J. H. Morgan & 417970 Pte. J. A. Langlois 5 CMR or
RCR; Trio to 2/Lt-Capt. S. M. Oliver, Royal Fusiliers and Elizabeth II Canadian
Forces Decoration to Capt. M. V. Lawrence.
Doug Styles (#218) [email protected]
15223 79A Avenue Edmonton, AB T5R 3H3 (780) 483-7985
(Exp. Summer ‘15)
WANTED:
A Large collections of Police, Fire & Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources
insignia (patches, badges, collar dogs). Also seeking Hunting & Gun Manufacturers related patches. Please respond with photographs and prices appreciated.
John Cookman (#3412) [email protected]
(Exp. Summer ‘14)
FOR SALE:
Andy Jeffrey of the "Badge & Stamp Depot" is retiring after 22 exiting years
activity in the world of international military memorabilia. Thousands of badges, patches, tallies, wings, books, miniature planes, legion stuff, uniforms etc.
All records correspondence, files are going at a practically give away prices.
Must see to appreciate. Refer to www.canbadge.ca or contact me for the particulars.
Andy Jeffrey (#2861) [email protected] or www.canbadge.ca
(Expires. Fall ‘14)
WANTED:
60", 70's RCMP Winter Parka, flock nylon, made by Peerless [WPG] size L or
XL Also, the white horsehide mocassins in a size 12 or 13 in any height, plain
or crepe sole. Lastly, interested in island spatters of the Pacific, British, Australian, or New Zealand.
39
Danny Hutch [# 2893] at 204-475-7471.
(Expires. Spring ‘15)
WANTED:
WW II Piat Gun Bomb carrier tubes, and a Piat Gun instruction book on the
Bubbel Sights. WW I Gas P.H. Hood and a WW I X-large P.08 Web Belt
55” (end to end). Also looking for a WW II Cdn/Brit helmet linershelmet in
large sizes from 7, 1/2” to 8” (inches). Please respond with condition and
prices of items and any pictures if possible.
Terry Burik (#1811) 109 Gusnowsky Road W, St. Andrews, MB R1A 2Z6 or call
(204)-334-7401)
(Expires. Winter ‘14)
FOR SALE:
Small number of Canadian and Foreign Badges for sale from the following
lists: #1-Cdn. metal hat badges; #2-Cdn. metal collar badges; #3-Cdn. metal
shoulder badges; #4-Cdn. cloth badges, pre’70; #5-Cdn. cloth badges,
post’70; #6-Foreign metal hat badges; #7-Foreign metal collar badges; #8Foreign metal shoulder and miscellaneous badges; #9-Foreign cloth badges;
#10-UN national identifiers. E-mail for list you want, pictures available on
request.
Ian Bowen (#3198) at: [email protected]
(Expires. Fall ‘15)
BOOKS WANTED
WE ARE CURRENTLY BUYING QUALITY USED BOOKS ON ALL MILITARY,
NAVAL, AND WARFARE SUBJECTS. ANY QUANTITY
CONTACT US IF YOU ARE SELLING OR DOWNSIZING YOUR COLLECTION.
Old Authors Bookshop
Rare & Unusual Books Bought & Sold
Roger Hart (#3439)
Tel: 613-726-0188 Email: [email protected]
Visit our Website at: http://www.oldauthors.com/
40
KIT SHOP ITEMS FOR SALE
ALL OF THE BELOW LISTED ITEMS CAN BE OBTAINED FROM
THE SEC-TREAS AND YOU CAN PHONE, WRITE OR EMAIL
ME.
1. Club Medal (National)
$12.00
2. Lapel Pins
$6.00
3. Club Crests
$5.00
4. Bullion Blazer Crest
$10.00
5. 15 Year LSM (Free to those eligible)
$16.00
6. 10 Year Bar (Free to those eligible)
$5.00
7. Club Tie
$16.00
8. A newly revised edition of the MCC Book ‘Medals & Badges of the
MCC of C ‘in full color’ Compiled by John Zabarylo.
REDUCED PRICE
Lapel Pin
Club Crest
$25.00
Club History Book of Awards
SPECIAL NOTE:
If you would like a Manitoba coin, they can be had at the following price.
The coin (see below) is gold & enamelled.
$5.00
41
42
Grenadier Militaria is a unique military store that sells hard to find
military books, militaria and art. Grenadier Militaria also combines the private
Great War collection of Mark Cahill for your viewing pleasure. Additionally,
we are proud to have a unique study library, devoted to sources from and
about the Canadian war experience during World War I.
We issue 4 catalogues per year, and they are mailed and/or e-mailed out to our clients quarterly. If you wish to be
added to our mail listing free of charge, please do not hesitate to contact us at our coordinates below.
We also buy military books and militaria at competitive prices. Just send us a listing of your items and we will be sure to
get back to you as soon as we can.
You can find our books on ABEbooks.com and Biblio.com, as well as on our own website: www.grenadiermilitaria.com.
We will be selling militaria items from our own website as well so be sure to check us out!
We invite anyone interested to come browse the shelves and browse the collection for a truly unique experience! We
are open Monday to Friday; 9am to 5pm and on weekends by appointment.
Grenadier Militaria is situated within the same locale as the Monmet
companies:
5524A St-Patrick Street, Suite 202, Montréal, Québec, H4E 1A8
Telephone: 514 788 6007 or 905 982 0317
Fax: 514 788 6009
web: www.grenadiermilitaria.com
email: [email protected]
MCCC Member # 3433
21129 Con 9 North Lancaster ON K0C 1Z0
Tel: 1-613-525-3840 Fax: 1-613-525-1865
Email: [email protected]
MCCC Member # 2808
MCCC Member # 2108
43
44
By Chris Boyer #3377
TOY SOLDIER MARKET
at Byward Market News
1242 1/2 Wellington Street West
Ottawa ON K1Y 3A4
Phone: 613-562-2580
Fax: 819-776-0591
45
Medals And Badges of the MCC of C
Compiled by John M Zabarylo.
The revised and updated version is now
available. The book is coil bound, the front and
back covers are laminated for protection, and all
items are in full color. A new printer has been
found to lower the cost of printing.
The new cost is $ 25.00 plus $ 5.00 postage in
Canada (ask for mailing costs to the USA and
overseas).
This is an excellent history of the MCC of C
and a must have for collectors.
Sample pages from the booklet.
To order your copy contact the Secretary/Treasurer, address at the
front of the Journal.
Military Collectors’ Club of Canada Journal
Advertising Rates
FULL PAGE (TYPE AREA 7 ¼” X 4 ½”)
HALF PAGE (TYPE AREA 3 5/8” X 4 ½”)
$90.00 (per issue)
$50.00 (per issue)
QUARTER PAGE (TYPE AREA 3 5/8” X 2 ¼”)
$30.00 (per issue)
Inserts: prices will be quoted on submission of material.
Remember: If four issues are paid in advance, a 10%
discount will be given.
All advertisers must be current members of the Military
Collectors’ Club of Canada.
46
LOUIS E. GRIMSHAW
MILITARY ANTIQUES
612 Fay St.
Kingston, ON, K7L 4V1
Tell:(613)-549-2500
Fax: (613)-549-8320
Email: lougrim@kingston,net
www.grimshaw-military.on.ca
All types of medals & militaria, particularly Canadian medals & Insignia, international airborne & special forces.
Medal mounting a specialty.
Dixon’s Gazette
Published four times a year. Probably the
largest listings of British Orders, Medals
and Decorations in the World. A good selection of books and articles. Subscription
for 4 issues.
£20 (UK), £35 (Europe)
£30 (USA & rest of the World)
All incl. of P&P (Airmail where appropriate)
Take a look at our website on:
www.dixonsmedals.co.uk
Deadline dates for
Advertising
Spring issue March 2015,
adverts to arrive by February 15,
2015
Summer issue: June 2015,
adverts to arrive by May 15, 2015
Fall issue: September 2015,
adverts to arrive by August 15,
2015
Winter issue: December 2015, adverts to arrive by November 15,
For more info, Contact:
John Zabarylo
PO Box 64009
RPO Morse Place, Winnipeg, MB
R2K 4K2 (204) 669-0871
[email protected]
MCC Member # 3197
Four catalogues per year
Annual subscription: $15 (Canada)
($15.00 US) ($30.00 US) overseas
Sample of a recent issue Free to Club
Members on request.
Following year’s subscription FREE to
Club members on request
Following year’s subscription FREE with
purchase in the current year.
AMEX, Mastercard & Visa
MCC of C #710
3434
47
48
MILITARY COLLECTORS’ CLUB OF CANADA
C/O JOHN ZABARYLO – SEC/TREAS.
BOX #9, 525 LONDON ST., WINNIPEG, MANITOBA
R2K 3Y4
CANADA
EMAIL: [email protected]
WEBSITE: http://www.mccofc.ca
PLEASE PRINT CLEARLY
RENEWAL / APPLICATION FOR MEMBERSHIP
NAME: ______________________________________________________
ADDRESS:____________________________________________________
CITY, PROV/STATE _____________________________________________
POSTAL CODE: ________________ PH. # __________________________
EMAIL: ______________________________________________________
INTERESTES: _________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
I AM A COLLECTOR _______ / A DEALER _______ OR BOTH _______
I WAS A PREVIOUS MEMBER:
NO ________
/
YES ________
I AM A CURRENT MEMBER AND MY # IS ________________________
SIGNATURE _________________________________________________
DATED _____________________________________________________
DO YOU WISH YOUR NAME AND INFORMATION TO BE PRINTED
IN THE JOURNAL OR ROSTER RE THE PRIVACY ACT.
YES ______
NO _______
MEMBERSHIP DUES ARE AS FOLLOWS:
COUNTRY
CANADA
USA
OVERSEAS
1 YEAR
$ 25.00
$ 25.00
$ 30.00
2 YEARS
$ 45.00 [IN CDN$]
$ 45.00 [IN US$]
$ 55.00 [IN CDN$]
Please mail to above address
Or contact via Email
(MCC Member #2542)
MCCC MEMBER #2542
Tanya Ursual (#780)
Military Antiquarian, INC.
Specializing in:
Medals · Orders · Decorations
Miniature Medals
Military Antiques

military collectors` club of canada

Transcription

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