speed tasting report - The Tasting Panel Magazine

SPEED TASTING REPORT
Bend it Like
Chardonnay
Left to right: Wilfred Wong, Cellar Master for BevMo!; Nicole Kosta, Beverage Director at the Mandarin
Oriental Hotel, San Francisco; Petra Polakovicova, Wine Director for Epic Roasthouse/San Fran; Meridith
May, Publisher/Executive Editor, THE TASTING PANEL; Alan Johnson, CEO, BevMo! (who stayed to
watch the event); Shelley Lindgren, Wine Director and owner of restaurant A-16 in San Francisco; Tim
McDonald, public relations expert, Wine Spoken Here; Jennifer Ingellis, General Manager and Wine
Director, Brassica, Napa Valley; and Eduardo Dingler, Wine Director at Morimoto, Napa.
1 10 / the tasting panel / august 2012
THE MALLEABILITY OF THIS GRAPE INSPIRED
OUR RECENT BLIND SPEED TASTING
W
Wilfred Wong is the Cellar Master for
BevMo! and was our host and lead
panelist for this special blind speed
tasting, held at the company’s new
corporate o∞ces in Concord, CA.
photos by Nikki Ritcher
hether fat and buttery, lean and structured, tropical
and fruity or clean and mineral-edgy, Chardonnay
is perhaps the most versatile of all varietals. It all
begins with one little grape, but distinct terroir,
winemaker influence and aging techniques come
together in a swirl of possibilities to result in the
wide range of styles that make Chardonnay so interesting and unique.
THE TASTING PANEL, ever intrigued by the charms of Chardonnay,
decided to explore the realm of possibilities in the varietal’s expression in
the glass, and we invited a few of our favorite Northern California buyers
to join us as we delved into Chards from around the world.
We set up our Chardonnay Headquarters at BevMo!’s corporate office
in Concord, CA, where Cellar Master Wilfred Wong joined our panel of
eight of the most influential decision- and taste-makers in and around
San Francisco and Napa Valley as we blind tasted our way through ten
fabulous Chards.
During 45 minutes of tasting, swishing and spitting, our panel discussed everything from whether a wine is more suitable for a retail or
restaurant environment, to pondering general sales trends for unoaked
versus oaky Chards. For instance, Petra Polakovicova, Wine Director
at San Francisco’s Epic Roasthouse, says that Chardonnay continues
to be the most popular varietal, but notes that less oaked versions are
ahead of oaky-style offerings. Eduardo Dingler, Wine Director at Napa’s
Morimoto admits that while most food does “not cater to large-style
whites, demand for these monsters does exist. But we also sell a lot of
lean Chardonnays.”
The roundtable format continued as each Chard was revealed and
presented by a brand representative, and from the ten Chards in our
glass that day, the variety expressed was tremendous. “It is so important
to have this type of communication,” explained Wong, who is a major
part of the team that oversees wine selections in all BevMo! locations,
including the retail chain’s most recent expansion into Washington
State. “We’re all part of the same community that is working to bring the
customer the best wines possible,” says Wong.
Cheers to that, and cheers to Chardonnay! —Meridith May
august 2012 / the tasting panel / 111
Tasting Blind First, Then Revealing, One by One
Here are the wines we tasted and the panelists notes during the blind portion of the tasting.
REVEAL NUMBER ONE:
The Carneros Bend
Bouchaine Estate 2010 Chardonnay, Carneros (SRP $30, “new release”)
Stacked with layers of flavors, Bouchaine Chardonnay speaks the language
of this cool growing region with a lime/
ginger pungency. The winery farms 40
acres of Chardonnay, uses five different
strains of yeast and utilizes ML a-plenty
to achieve its surprisingly full texture.
Using various barrels, winemaker
Michael Richmond insists, “There is
no such thing as a neutral barrel,” and
claims this wine’s flavors “resonate on
demand with different food settings. It
responds to me with the most respect.”
Bouchaine’s VP of Wine Production
and Sales Greg Gauthier and GM
and winemaker Michael Richmond. The Panel’s comments:
“Lemon curd, crystallized ginger,
butter poached apples! I really like the weight of this not-too-ripe but full
Chardonnay . . . I can imagine its versatility.” —Shelley Lindgren
“Pleasant to drink and the oak is in check (lovely vanilla brûlée) with a clean,
bright, crisp finish.” —Petra Polakovicova
REVEAL NUMBER TWO:
The Steel Magnolia Bend
Oyster Bay 2011 Marlborough Chardonnay, New Zealand (SRP $15)
Small clusters, small berries and intense fruit are tell-tale signs for the
character of this unique profile of Chardonnay—a benchmark example of
Marlborough’s unique cool climate viticulture. Family-owned Oyster Bay
is one of the country’s top producers,
and this fruit, grown in the Wairau
Valley, experiences a long, extended
growing season. With no ML, limited
barrel aging and lees stirring in
stainless steel, this Chardonnay had
the panel guessing.
The Panel’s comments:
“It had floral, sweet tones—passion
fruit notes and citrus—that reminded
me of a Chenin Blanc. Pretty, bright
and aromatic, with a light slate
finish.” —Jennifer Ingellis
Oyster Bay’s Western Regional
Sales Manager, Steven Wyngard,
and Chain Account Manager
(Western U.S. ), Larry Miltko.
“Bone dry, with a slightly nutty/candied pineapple effect .The minerality adds complexity. But the white floral notes and pink grapefruit are an
unusual twist. It would be a great pairing with tuna tartare at Morimoto.”
—Eduardo Dingler
1 12 / the tasting panel / august 2012
REVEAL NUMBER THREE:
High-Elevation Bend
Antica Napa Valley 2010 Estate Chardonnay, Antinori Family Estate
(SRP $35)
Antica represents the venerable Antinori family in
California, located in a high-elevation valley in the
eastern mountains of Napa Valley, at the top of the
Atlas Peak AVA. The hilly terrain and rocky soils of
the estate comprise the formula that Piero Antinori
thought ideal for grape-growing. The Chardonnay
is grown on 10- to 22-year-old vines at 1,400 feet on
alluvial Bale Clay Loam and Perkins Gravelly Loam
soils. Five clones from nine vineyard selections, each
with their own identifiable qualities, go into making
Antica Chardonnay.
The Panel’s comments:
“Dust and earth start the mineral process on the
palate, while an onset of creamy oak and stone fruit join the parade. There’s
a lot going on in this firm, structured Chardonnay.” —Wilfred Wong
“Voluptuous California signature from obviously expressive terroir; full
and elegant brioche and red apple slant with good acidity, start to finish.”
—Nicole Kosta
Jennifer Scott DWS,
Luxury Business
Development
Manager, California,
at Ste. Michelle Wine
Estates.
REVEAL NUMBER FOUR:
Bend It . . . Delicately
Chiarina 2010 Chardonnay, California (SRP $15)
This small-production Chardonnay is sourced from vineyards
across California’s top
cool-climate growing
regions, with an emphasis on Sonoma County.
Straightforward and
bright, the fine acidity
and delicate nature of
this pretty white lends
itself to be a great food
pairing wine.
Kristy Fisher is the Customer
Representative for C&C Distributors.
The Panel’s comments:
“Light and ethereal on
the nose and a tropical
shininess on the palate. Beautiful mango to pineapple and banana
notes with a singing minerality on the finish.” —Meridith May
“Alluring mid-gold color, the lemon zest and acacia flowers
meld with a crushed white rock minerality. Great creamy texture.
This would be great on Epic’s patio on a Sunday afternoon.”
—Petra Polakovicova
august 2012 / the tasting panel / 113
SPEED TASTING REPORT
REVEAL NUMBER FIVE:
Blend It to Bend It
B Cellars 2011 Blend 23, California (SRP $33)
Blending is an art form at B Cellars, where co-founders Duffy Keys and Jim
Borsack work with winemaker Kirk Venge to explore wines with nuance. “We
make wines for chefs,” says Borsack.
“They can craft dishes that meld with the
components of our wines.” Ingredientdriven wine is a concept, and this fusion
Chardonnay is a fine example: a blend
of 51% Chardonnay from vineyards in
Carneros, Green Valley and Rutherford,
37% Sauvignon Blanc and 12% Viognier
from Pope Valley. While the barrelfermented Chardonnay offers citrus and
minerality, the Sauv Blanc is the tropical
Vin DiVino Western Regional Manager section; the Viognier adds body and a
garden of flowers.
Jim McGuire represents B Cellars.
The Panel’s comments:
“Well-structured with lemongrass, crème brûlée and vanilla bean. This is seamless, smooth and rich with a finish
of juicy white peach; great for customers who enjoy crisp whites.” —Shelley Lindgren
“Tastes like a super blend: a little spice on the nose with a hint of orange blossom and jasmine. It’s a fruit and floral
medley. Lovely, lean and elegant.” —Tim McDonald
REVEAL NUMBER SIX:
Bend It with ChalK
Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Sonoma
County Chardonnay, Chalk Hill AVA
(SRP $18.99)
Synonymous with Sonoma County, Rodney
Strong Vineyards’ was the first to designate a
wine from the Chalk Hill AVA after planting
Chardonnay there over 30 years ago. The
white reflective soil is actually derived from
volcanic ash that leaves that stony or “chalky”
sensation on the tongue. This Chardonnay
is barrel fermented and aged in new and
seasoned oak for nine months, with regular
lees stirring that shows off its creamy rich
texture.
Quinn McManus, Northern
Our Panel’s comments:
California Area Manager for
“Vanilla bean custard is enticing on the
Rodney Strong Vineyards.
nose. The palate is extracted and concentration of guava and melon play to a long finish.” —Eduardo Dingler
“Toasted marshmallow is a sweet start – and further along, the oak is well
integrated so you can actually call this rather creamy wine “lithe,” with a
mineral back.” —Meridith May
1 14 / the tasting panel / august 2012
REVEAL NUMBER SEVEN:
Bend It with CloneS
{Noble Vines} 446 2010 Chardonnay, Monterey
(SRP $12)
“Our line of Noble Vines wines pay homage to
the best clones from our terroir,” says winemaker
James Ewart. "Here in California, we’ve planted
a selection of these vines exactly where they will
flourish best. Single Vineyard 446 Chardonnay is
named for VineType 4 grown in Block 46 of our San
Bernabe Vineyard. San Bernabe’s cool growing season and diverse soil types add to 446 Chardonnay’s
brilliant color, juicy tropical and citrus flavors and
supple finish.” 2010 was Monterey’s coolest growing season since 1998, resulting in concentrated
color and flavor.
Our Panel’s comments:
“Meyer lemon and Sierra Beauty apple make
for a crisp and juicy entry. Just so full of flavor: This style is perfectly lean with a touch of
coconut sweetness.” —Shelley Lindgren
James Ewart is the
winemaker for {Noble
Vines} 446 Chardonnay.
Creamy banana and coconut purée (fun!) with a lemon/lime and green apple crispness lends layers to a creamy
texture and full bodied white. Very easy drinking.” —Petra Polakovicova
REVEAL NUMBER EIGHT:
Bend with Blended Lots
Black Stallion Estate Winery 2010 Chardonnay,
Napa Valley (SRP $19)
From a boutique Napa Valley winery on the Silverado Trail in the
Oak Knoll District, Black Stallion Estate Winery crafts wines from
small vineyard lots. This cool-climate 2010 vintage Chardonnay is
aged in French oak and
goes through malolactic
fermentation to create
body, concentration and a
creamy character. A great
value wine.
Holly Evans is Director of Public
Relations for DFV Wines.
Our Panel’s comments:
“As ripe and lush as it is,
it’s zippy to the core with a
steady line of minerality.”
—Wilfred Wong
“Green apple is center
stage but minerality plays a major role, along with great acidity. A
subtle, pretty wine with a medium-long finish. I would pair with our
Drake’s Bay oysters with hajike butter.” —Nicole Kosta
august 2012 / the tasting panel / 1 15
SPEED TASTING REPORT
REVEAL NUMBER NINE:
Bent for Texture
Liberty School 2010
Chardonnay, Central Coast
(SRP $15)
Whole cluster–pressed
and –fermented and stirred on
the lees, this cool climate, lush
Chardonnay defines mouthfeel.
Sourced from vineyard sites
in and around the Santa Lucia
Highlands of Monterey County
(a Region 1 cool climate indeed!),
the wine’s natural acidity sets
the stage for its fruit and floral
components. Six percent Viognier
is blended in.
Joel Peterson of Hope
Family Wines.
Our Panel’s comments:
“Well done! A leaner style California Chardonnay that feels
like a Chardonnay and offers varietal typicity of citrus, lime, pear
and papaya cleansing capabilities.” —Shelley Lindgren
“Alive and crisp, with elegant tannins and a fresh apple and
citrus profile.” —Wilfred Wong
REVEAL NUMBER TEN:
Bend It with Organically
Grown Grapes
Bonterra 2010 Organic Chardonnay, Mendocino County ($12)
Winemaker Bob Blue adopts a style that deliberately uses a
combination of oak and stainless steel to emphasize the crisp freshness of organically grown fruit from Mendocino. Seventy percent of
the juice is fermented in a combination of French and American oak,
which is allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation. The remaining
30 percent is fermented in stainless steel to preserve the crisp fresh
fruit flavors. Most of the wine is aged in previously-used or neutral
oak. New oak was used for just 16 percent of the wine to give this
Chardonnay a vanilla note.
Our Panel’s comments:
“Bright apple, a fine acidity through its very core and a light oak
touch, bring life to this lean white.” —Jennifer Ingellis
“Ripe stone fruit meets a chalky texture: clean from start to finish.
Tropical fruit, a tart lime middle and green apple notes add layers.”
—Petra Polakovicova
1 16 / the tasting panel / august 2012