Untitled - APT Servizi

Transcription

Untitled - APT Servizi
Publishing project:
APT Servizi Emilia Romagna
Unione di prodotto Appennino e Verde
Unione di prodotto Città d’arte, cultura, affari
Unione di prodotto Costa
Concept & graphic design:
Empresa Creativa
Texts:
Lorenzo Frassoldati
Translation:
Link up, Rimini
Photographs:
Photo Archive of APT Servizi
Photo Archive of Unioni di prodotto Appennino e Verde - Città d’arte, cultura, affari - Costa.
Photo Archive of the following provinces: Piacenza, Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna, Ferrara, Ravenna,
Forlì-Cesena, Rimini.
Printed in April 2010 by Labanti e Nanni Industrie Grafiche - Crespellano (Bologna)
Simply delicious!
Intense fragrances and delicious flavours. For all those who live in Emilia-Romagna,
a region that enjoys an excellent quality of life, the culture of good food is synonymous
with tradition, friendship and hospitality.
To allow excellent balsamic vinegars, sweet hams and exquisite wines to “rest”, we have
sacrificed hundreds of rooms, at times even entire farmhouses. It’s true that nature
has given us fertile lands for growing wonderful products and perfect microclimates
for curing and maturing them. However, the key to our success lies in the harmonious
union between the work of man and the cycles of nature, between cultivation and
production, between processing and distribution. Thanks to these wonderful synergies
we have managed, over the centuries, to guarantee our children, Italy and the entire
world excellent food and wine products.
We are extremely jealous of these things, but have always shared them with friends,
with guests, with everyone. That is why we have put together this small guide-book
packed with suggestions for travels in our region discovering fantastic food and wine
products to take home or give as gifts while staying in comfortable hotels or at relaxing
holiday farms. We will show you ancient production techniques, teach you about
wines and cheeses, take you to visit museums, cities and hills; you will become chefs
and sommeliers and we will reveal all our treasures to you - from vintage cars to art
collections.
We look forward to meeting you, because we have something “special” for you to try.
Massimo Gottifredi
President
APT Servizi Emilia-Romagna
(Regional tourist board)
Andrea Babbi
Managing Director
APT Servizi Emilia-Romagna
(Regional tourist board)
Index
2
Introduction
6
Map
8
Piacenza & surroundings
16
Parma & surroundings
24
Reggio Emilia & surroundings
32
Modena & surroundings
40
Bologna & surroundings
48
Ferrara & surroundings
56
Ravenna & surroundings
64
Forlì - Cesena & surroundings
72
Rimini & surroundings
80
Events calendar
Piacenza
& surroundings
GUTTURNIO FESTIVAL
Carpaneto Piacentino
Last week in April
A BIT OF FLAVOUR - UN PO’ DI GUSTO
Lower Piacenza area
November
To eat
•Coppa piacentina PDO
•Grana Padano PDO
•Pancetta piacentina PDO
•Provolone Valpadana PDO
•Salame Cremona PGI
•Salame piacentino PDO
•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO
To drink
•Colli Piacentini DOC
•Emilia IGT
•Terre di Veleja IGT
•Valtidone IGT
9 - Piacenza & surroundings
s
Events
Marguerite of Austria commissioned
plans for a lavish, fairytale palace; this
was how Palazzo Farnese came about, a
palace-castle that has few equals in Italy
and the first place to visit in Piacenza. It
is equally unusual to find two sculptures
that both give their name to a square;
Piazza Cavalli, the most beautiful open
space in town. This is where the “Gotico”,
the symbol of the city also known as
the Palazzo del Comune, stands. Built
in Gothic Lombard style, it is adorned
with merlons and porticoes. Next to it
is the church of San Francesco, filled
with works of art, and Piazza Duomo,
where attention turns to the Romanesque
cathedral in pink marble (12th century).
INFO:
Piacenza Tourist Information Office
Tel. +39 0523 329324
www.comune.piacenza.it
www.provincia.pc.it/turismo
Don’t miss
PPROVOLONE VALPADANA PDO & GRANA
PADANO PDO
Stretched and processed, then wrapped around itself
and shaped; this is how curds are processed in the
cheese factories that make Provolone Valpadana PDO.
The stretching is a key moment in the processing of
Provolone Valpadana: what comes out is a ribbon
that is then wrapped around itself and finally, shaped
to ensure it has no air bubbles. It is a versatile and
modern cheese that is popular internationally and is
much appreciated by connoisseurs. It can be sweet
or strong, fresh or matured and mandarin-shaped
or cylindrical. The other “must-have” of the area is
Grana Padano, PDO Italian cheese that is a symbol of
typicality and tradition in the world. This cheese owes
its characteristic fragrance and aroma to the milk used
to produce it, which in turn is linked to the fodder
given to the milk cattle.
The gastronomic delights of Piacenza
are without doubt its three excellent
cold cuts; Coppa, Pancetta and Salami,
all awarded PDO recognition. It also
boasts quality cheeses like Grana Padano
PDO and Provolone Valpadana PDO.
Excellent wines are produced on the hills
around Piacenza, in particular the red
wine Gutturnio and the white Ortugo. A
typical dish is “pisarei e fasò”, an ideal
way to use stale bread, and main courses
like roast coppa and “picula ad caval”,
minced horse meat with tomatoes, onion
and peppers.
Ponte dell’Olio & bread “with a stamp”
In the area near Castel San Giovanni, Morfasso
and other areas of the Apennines near Piacenza,
this fresh cheese is made using whole cow’s
milk or mixed milk. Sugar, salt, grappa liqueur
or dry white wine are sometimes added. It is
stored in glass jars under oil, becoming more
intensely flavoured as it matures.
In Ponte dell’Olio, using wheat flour, water,
natural yeast, brewer’s yeast and salt, “bread
with a stamp” is prepared. It has this name
because a small ball of dough is placed in the
centre of the loaf, like a stamp, thus giving it
its distinctive shape. The processing cycle for
this bread is checked thanks to keen awareness
of the delicate microbiological processes that
occur during proving and no chemical additives
are used to prepare the dough. Numerous
people come from outside the province to buy
this bread that is excellent with all kinds of
food.
Worth trying
COPPA PIACENTINA AND OTHER PDO COLD CUTS
Pig farming in the area around Piacenza dates back
to a millennium before the Christian era. However,
the tradition of butchering, salting and curing
pork meat to make tasty cold cuts was consolidated
during the Middle Ages. Today Piacenza can boast
three wonderful examples of this ancient art; Coppa,
Salami and Pancetta PDO. Pigs destined for these
cold cuts come from the regions of Emilia Romagna
and Lombardy, but the processing area is limited to
the Province of Piacenza alone, where the climatic
and territorial characteristics are fundamental for the
unmistakeable flavour that has made them famous.
The hallmark of these cold cuts is a delicate balance
between sweet and savoury, as well as the particular
aroma that characterizes cured products.
Info: Consorzio Salumi Tipici Piacentini
(Consortium of Typical Cold Cuts of Piacenza)
www.piacenzafoodvalley.com
Every year in November, the lower Piacenza area
celebrates local flavours in an event called “Un po’ di
gusto”.
11 - Piacenza & surroundings
Castel San Giovanni & Robiola
Monticelli d’Ongina & garlic
Monte Lazzarina & caciotta
The product that symbolizes this village on the
right bank of the Po River is garlic for which
Monticelli is the one of the capitals in Italy.
The most popular variety is called “Piacentino
bianco” and thanks to the particular
environmental, climatic and geophysical
conditions of the area, it has a firm white flesh
that is delightfully fragranced, rich in vitamins
and mineral salts and exceptional in terms of
aroma and duration (it can be kept from one
year to the next).
Caciotta farmhouse cheese from Monte
Lazzarina is produced by mixing cow’s milk and
goat’s milk; it is then seasoned for two days
and matured for about a month. Production
is typically centred on the Apennines of the
Province of Piacenza and the finished cheese is
firm with a light-coloured rind.
A toast
GUTTURNIO & ORTRUGO DOC
Piacenza has always been a land of wines.
Gutturnio is certainly the king of local wines. It is
a full-bodied red wine with evident tannins and a
sharp, clear taste; the expression of a culture and
territory. In 1967, Gutturnio was one of the first
ten Italian wines to receive DOC recognition. The
other wine that symbolizes the territory is the
white wine Ortrugo, which has a light straw-yellow
colour and a dry, sweetish taste. It is produced in
both frizzante and spumante versions, but is also
becoming popular as a still wine. Some of the most
important wine cellars in the hills of Piacenza have
set up an association called “Mosaico Piacentino”.
Info: Consorzio di Tutela Vini D.O.C. Colli Piacentini
(Consortium to Protect the DOC Wines of the Hills of
Piacenza)
www.piacenzafoodvalley.it
Chestnuts, mushrooms and truffles are typical
products of the Apennines of Piacenza and
in October several events are organized to
celebrate them.
In Bobbio there’s a mushroom and truffle
market.
Info: Bobbio Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
In Castell’Arquato there’s a Chestnut Festival.
Info: Castell’Arquato Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
In Pecorara there’s an event celebrating
truffles and other autumnal produce.
Worth seeing
THE GOTICO
The incomplete Palazzo Gotico dominates the main
square in the town centre, Piazza Cavalli - with
its equestrian statues of Ranuccio and Alessandro
Farnese. It was commissioned in 1281 by Alberto
Scoto, head of the merchants and Ghibelline lord of
the city, and was planned by local craftsmen. Built in
Gothic Lombard style, its layout recalls the traditional
town hall buildings of northern Italy, with a low
portico for meetings and solemn French windows onto
a balcony, lighting the single large upper room. The
illustrious poet Francesco Petrarca was once hosted in
the main hall.
Info: Piacenza Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
13 - Piacenza & surroundings
The Apennines & autumnal produce
Worth seeing
A LAND OF CASTLES AND HISTORICAL
RESIDENCES
All around the territory of the ancient Duchy of Parma
and Piacenza there is considerable evidence of the
thousand-year old history of this area, a border land
and an area of transit. It has countless fortresses,
castles, residences, fortified villages and abbeys where
noble families, famous mercenaries, patrons of the
arts and great spiritual figures once lived. These sites
have now grouped together and are represented by
the Association of Castles of the Duchy of Parma and
Piacenza. The splendour and atmosphere of the past
come back to life in “Remembering Past Flavours”; a
packed programme of historical re-enactments, with
dinner, held at association castles.
Info: www.castellidelducato.it
15 - Piacenza & surroundings
Parma & surroundings
PARMA HAM FESTIVAL
In the municipalities of the Parma ham production zone
(Langhirano, Tizzano, Collecchio, Calestano, Lesignano Bagni,
Neviano Arduini, Montechiarugolo, Sala Baganza and Felino).
From the end of August until 20th September approx.
GASTRONOMIC AUTUMN IN THE TARO VALLEY
In the municipalities of the upper Taro Valley (Albareto,
Bedonia, Berceto, Borgotaro, Compiano, Tornolo).
In September, October and November
NOVEMBER PORC …. LET’S HOPE IT’S FOGGY!
Sissa, Polesine Parmense, Zibello, Roccabianca
Every weekend in November
To eat
•Culatello di Zibello PDO
•Parma ham PDO
•Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese PDO
•Porcini mushrooms of Borgotaro PGI
•Salame Cremona PGI
•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO
To drink
•Colli di Parma DOC
•Emilia IGT
•Fortana del Taro IGT
17 - Parma & surroundings
Events
Renowned for its art, music and quality of
life, with an old town centre built around
the ancient Piazza Grande, now Piazza
Garibaldi, Parma is an elegant, open
and hospitable town. Founded in 183 BC,
a free commune was constituted around
1140 to be followed by the supremacy
of the Farnese family, the Bourbons
and the Duchy of Marie Louise of
Austria. Its finest monuments include the
Romanesque Cathedral, the Baptistery,
in pink marble from Verona, the imposing
Palazzo della Pilotta and the neoclassical
Regio Theatre. The name of Parma is
also linked to its renowned culinary
tradition, the taste for sophisticated and
top-quality food and excellent products
INFO:
Parma Tourist Information Office
Tel. +39 0521 218889
www.turismo.comune.parma.it
www.turismo.parma.it
Don’t miss
ANOLINI
The princes of Parmesan cuisine, anolini (or cappelletti)
are the traditional dish for opening Christmas and New
Year lunch. “Anolini” is a term used solely in Parma
and refers to a filled parcel, shaped like a small disc
without no edge, made by superimposing two layers
of pasta. The delicious filling is a mixture of mature
grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, breadcrumbs,
egg yolk and the concentrated sauce of beef pot roast,
with a little grated nutmeg to taste.
like
Parmigiano-Reggiano
cheese,
Parma ham, boiled shoulder ham and
salami from Felino. The agricultural
and food excellence of Parma boasts an
ancient tradition and various museums
in the area are dedicated to it, including
the Parmigiano-Reggiano Museum in
Soragna, the Parma Ham Museum in
Langhirano, the Felino Salami Museum
and the Tomato Museum in Collecchio.
Info: Parmigiano-Reggiano Museum
www.museidelcibo.it
to prepare roasts and tasty cutlets. Lastly, try
them in various kinds of mushroom soup.
Every year in autumn, in the upper Taro Valley
- in the municipalities of Albareto, Bedonia,
Berceto, Borgotaro, Compiano and Tornolo mushrooms and other local autumnal products
are celebrated in various festivals.
Info: www.stradadelfungo.it
Borgotaro & Porcini mushrooms PGI
Borgotaro’s porcini mushrooms PGI grow in
the copses of the Valleys of the Taro and Magra
and are divided into four species; red, dark,
“magnàn” and cold-weather mushrooms. Their
characteristics are an intense, clean aroma
that is not too strong. Porcini mushrooms
from Borgotaro can be used in various recipes;
they are excellent served raw and thinly-sliced
or fried, grilled or preserved in oil, but also
delicious served with polenta, tagliatelle,
risottos and potato-filled tortelli or with meat,
Worth trying
NOCINO
Nocino is a typical product of Noceto, a small town
in the Province of Parma where the tradition of
making this walnut liqueur has always existed. The
preparation probably came from the Romans or maybe
even the Celts, who had learnt the art of fermenting
walnuts and honey from the Picts in Anglia. The ageold custom of making homemade nocino in Noceto
is surrounded by numerous legends. In September,
Noceto hosts a nocino and walnut cake competition.
19 - Parma & surroundings
Soragna & Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO
Felino & salami
The village, an agricultural and industrial
centre in the gently rolling hills of the valley of
the Baganza, owes its fame to the production
of salami. Felino salami is prepared using
only pork meat - the lean trimmings cut from
“coppa”, hams and shoulder hams. This perfect
mixture of fat and lean meat is coarsely minced
before adding salt, peppercorns and nitrate.
Just before the mixture is packed into the pig’s
gut, pepper and garlic crushed in a mortar
and dissolved in dry white wine are added.
According to tradition, salami should be sliced
A toast
MALVASIA DOC
On the hills near Parma and in particular, in the
valleys of the Baganza and the Parma, “Malvasia di
Candia” is grown and used to make the DOC wine
“Malvasia dei Colli di Parma”. It can be either a still
wine, to accompany meals, or a sparkling dessert
wine, with a balanced flavour, dry or medium-sweet,
still or sparkling and low proof. It is ideal with light
appetizers or vegetable dishes, but is also good with
traditional local salamis and cold cuts, as well as
“anolini” or “tortelli”.
Info: Consorzio Volontario per la Tutela dei Vini Colli di
Parma (Voluntary Consortium to Safeguard the Wines of
the Hills of Parma)
www.collidiparma.it
at a 60° angle in order to highlight the grain.
Felino has a museum dedicated to its famous
salami.
Info: www.museidelcibo.it
The town is situated close to Parma Torrent
and is surrounded by numerous factories that
process and cure Parma Ham PDO, an extremely
popular cold cut exported all over the world.
Proof of its success comes from 2,000 years of
history; Cato the Censor, Strabo and Polybius
all refer to pig farms and haunches kept under
salt. The Italian word for ham “prosciutto”
(which comes from the Latin perexsuctum,
literally “dried”) says it all: its slow and patient
curing has ancient origins. This geographical
area provides the ideal climatic conditions for
“drying” or in other words, the natural curing
that gives Parma Ham its sweetness, flavour
and harmony.
Info: Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma
(Parma Ham Consortium)
www.prosciuttodiparma.com
Langhirano has dedicated to this famous food
product both a museum and a festival, which is
held every year between the end of August and
the first half of September.
Info: Museum of Parma Ham and Salamis from
Parma - www.museidelcibo.it
Parma Ham Festival
www.festivaldelprosciuttodiparma.com
21 - Parma & surroundings
Langhirano & ham
San Secondo & boiled shoulder ham
Boiled shoulder ham from San Secondo is
a delicious traditional cold cut from Parma
produced in a restricted area in the plains
around the town; the epicentre of this area
is San Secondo. It was already popular during
Roman times and was one of the favourite
cold cuts of the great Giuseppe Verdi. Boiled
shoulder ham or spalla cotta from San Secondo
is made using the front shoulder of the pig,
tied by hand to give it the shape of a large
sphere, and then cured for 25/30 days. It is
then cooked for several hours at a very low
temperature in water, red wine and vegetables.
It is excellent as an appetizer, served alone or
with other cold cuts, accompanied by warm
homemade bread or traditional torta fritta (a
kind of fried dumpling).
Info: San Secondo Parmense Tourist
Information Office
[email protected]
Worth seeing
THE CATHEDRAL
THE REGGIA OF COLORNO
Dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption, Parma
Cathedral is one of the most representative buildings
of the Padania-Romanesque period. The façade has a
pitched roof, three orders of loggias and three portals.
Inside, it has a nave and two aisles and a transept with
side chapels ending in apses. The internal decorations
show incredibly interesting sculptural pieces, whilst
the Deposition by Antelami is walled in the transept.
Between 1525 and 1530, Correggio painted the cupola
of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary surrounded
by Apostles, ephebes and angels carrying musical
instruments with the patron saints of the city in the
pendentives.
With its polygonal shape and colonnade, the Reggia of
Colorno is the result of various interventions that have
taken place over time. Thanks to Phillip of Bourbon,
the furnishings were renovated in the second half
of the 18th century. After the unification of Italy,
its art collections and furnishings were lost. Inside,
the most interesting rooms are on the main floor,
which dates from the Bourbon period - small intimate
rooms, elegant decor, large marble fireplaces, inlaid
flooring, double swing doors with locks in wrought
gilded bronze and ornate stuccoes. Recent upgrading
work on the park has restored the English garden,
commissioned by Marie Louise in the first two decades
of the 19th century.
Info: Parma Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
Info: Colorno District Office
uffi[email protected]
Culatello of Zibello PDO is made using the
boneless legs of adult pigs, from which a part of
meat is removed to make the equally delicious
“fiocchetto”. The remaining part, which is
more tender and of superior quality, is carefully
trimmed and shaped then sprinkled with salt
and massaged vigorously, before being left
to rest. It is then stuffed into a pig’s bladder
and tied to give it its traditional “pear” shape.
Thanks to the area’s climate, curing gives
culatello its unique and unmistakeable flavour
and fragrance. The combination of summer
heat and autumnal fogs mean Culatello from
Zibello is exquisite when ready to eat.
Info:
Consorzio del Culatello di Zibello
(Culatello of Zibello Consortium)
www.consorziodelculatellodizibello.it
Delicious pork salamis and cold cuts are
celebrated each year in November in an event
called “November porc”, held between Sissa,
Polesine Parmense, Zibello and Roccabianca.
In its historical rooms, the Reggia hosts ALMA a top-level, international training centre for
Italian cuisine (Info: www.alma.scuolacucina.it)
and the University of Gastronomic Sciences,
founded based on an idea by Slow Food (Info:
www.unisg.it).
23 - Parma & surroundings
Zibello & culatello
Reggio Emilia
& surroundings
SLOW FESTIVAL
Felina (Castelnuovo ne’ Monti)
Last weekend in July
PUMPKIN FESTIVAL
Reggiolo
Last weekend in September
To eat
•Emilia Romagna pears PGI
•Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese PDO
•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO
•Traditional balsamic vinegar of Reggio Emilia PDO
To drink
•Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa DOC
•Reggiano DOC
•Emilia IGT
25 - Reggio Emilia & surroundings
Events
Reggio Emilia is one of the leading cities in
terms of the quality of life. With a growing
economic sector, thanks to numerous
production activities, it is first in Italy
in terms of the rate of employment and
exports. An art city, it combines ancient
monuments and contemporary works of
art such as the bridges of Calatrava, the
Spazio Gerra, the works of “Invito a” and
exhibitions like “Fotografia Europea”. It
is the home of the tricolour, the Italian
national flag, created here in 1797 in
what is now the town hall and gold medal
of the Resistance. It is rich in history,
illustrious figures and above all, memory
and a collective identity. It has a great
food and wine tradition; the Province
is one of the cradles of ParmigianoReggiano cheese and traditional
balsamic vinegar. Tortelli filled with
Swiss chard or pumpkin triumph, along
with erbazzone (chard pie), cold cuts and
pork, with produce from some of the most
highly specialised farms in north Italy. It
is possible to organize extraordinary food
itineraries starting in the heart of Reggio
Emilia and heading towards the hills or
the Po River, to discover the historical
feats of Matilda of Canossa and in the
literary footsteps of Boiardo and Ariosto.
INFO:
Reggio Emilia Tourist Information Office
Tel. +39 0522 451152
www.municipio.re.it/turismo
reggioemiliaturismo.provincia.re.it
Don’t miss
TRADITIONAL BALSAMIC VINEGAR OF REGGIO
EMILIA PDO
In a few cases, such as for Traditional Balsamic Vinegar
of Reggio Emilia PDO, history “is the product”. In fact,
for many centuries, this product of the geniality and
passion of man has honoured and characterised the
most fortunate and noble tables. It was first written
about in 1046, when the Emperor of Germany Henry
III from Piacenza, asked Boniface to give him special
vinegar “he had heard was made perfectly there”.
During the 12th, 13th and 14th centuries we know for
certain of the existence in Reggio Emilia, Scandiano
and the main towns under the House of Este of vinegar
producers who were part of authentic guilds whose
members jealously guarded the secrets of this precious
product. Writings about balsamic vinegar increase
during the 19th century, with the dowry lists of the
noble families of Reggio Emilia.
Info: Consorzio fra produttori di Aceto Balsamico
Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia (Consortium of the
Producers of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio
Emilia) - www.acetobalsamicotradizionale.it
In November, Albinea, in the foothills, celebrates both
balsamic vinegar and “ciccioli”, tasty pork scratchings.
Bibbiano is considered the cradle of
Parmigiano-Reggiano, the most famous
(and imitated) Italian cheese in the world.
Anyone who loves this cheese in its various
forms - less mature or after medium or longterm maturing - shouldn’t miss any of these
events; the “Sapori Matildici” Fair celebrating
local flavours in Bibbiano at the beginning of
autumn and the “Due Giorni” fair in Carpineti.
For more information on Parmigiano-Reggiano
cheese check the consortium website.
Info: www.parmigiano-reggiano.it
27 - Reggio Emilia & surroundings
Bibbiano & Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO
La Valle del Tresinaro & sheep
Brescello & spongata
To this day, in the Apennines, mutton butchery
and cold cut products are still extremely
popular. The most characteristic aspect is the
addition of seasoning, always present in these
preparations to harmonize the typical flavour
of mutton. In restaurants and butcher’s
shops near Mount Valestra, visitors are likely
to come across “barzigole” (seasoned meat)
delicacies. Abundantly seasoned, they exalt
the characteristic aromas that are much
sought-after and incredibly rich in history.
In Valestra, in the Baisano area, and as far
as Viano, areas that were once Byzantine,
families still produce an autochthonous
product par excellence - mutton ham, which is
called “violino” (or cushöt) and is particularly
dark and tasty.
There’s no dinner worthy of its name that does
not end with a cake and from this point of
view, Brescello has an age-old tradition thanks
to its famous “spongata”. The history of this
cake was lost in the 15th century, but in more
recent times, a letter dated 1951, thanking for
hospitality received, shows that Giovannino
Guareschi, Gino Cervi, Fernandel and all the
cast of the first of the five films of the Don
Camillo saga appreciated this famous cake.
Spongata is popular because, as well as being
an unusual dish, the filling between the two
layers of rich short-crust pastry calls to mind
the flavours of yesteryear. Don’t miss a visit
to the Don Camillo and Peppone Museum that
houses mementoes and souvenirs linked to the
film saga.
Info: www.appenninoreggiano.it
Worth trying
ERBAZZONE
Erbazzone, also called “scarpazùn” in dialect, is a
savoury vegetable flan and a typical gastronomic
speciality of Reggio Emilia. It consists in an
unleavened pastry base, made using wheat flour
(corn flour can also be used), water, lard and salt
that is then filled with a mixture of Swiss chard and
spinach, sautéed with onion and lard and seasoned
with garlic, parsley and other herbs. Abundant grated
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, matured a minimum of
24 months, and breadcrumbs should then be added. It
is then closed with another layer of unleavened pastry
and baked in the oven. In the Apennines the recipe
adds rice. A consortium has been set up to promote
authentic “erbazzone reggiano” and request European
Community PGI origin recognition.
29 - Reggio Emilia & surroundings
The plains & tortelli filled with
pumpkin and Swiss chard
For a large part of the Province of Reggio
Emilia (in particular the plains), pumpkin
tortelli, a fresh pasta dish served with butter
and sage or meat sauce, have represented for
centuries the dish of choice on feast days even
for the poorest farmers, unlike meat-filled
“cappelletti”, a more noble dish usually served
at the manor. Pumpkins grew everywhere
(and were cheap), not only in the area around
Reggio Emilia, but also in a vaster area where
pumpkin tortelli are still popular, for example
in the Mantua and Ferrara areas, although
subject to local variations. We should point out
that not everyone will appreciate the sweet
flavour of pumpkin tortelli.
Another typical dish of this area are Swiss chard
tortelli to which Scandiano dedicates a festival
in November that sees local restaurants, inns
and even housewives competing to win gold,
silver or bronze medals for their tortelli.
Info: www.stradaviniesapori.re.it
A toast
LAMBRUSCO REGGIANO DOC
Lambrusco Reggiano DOC wine comes from wild
vines that Cato refers to in his “De agri cultura” in
the 2nd century BC. If rosé, Lambrusco Reggiano
is ideal for snacks and appetizers such as cold cuts
(excellent with “mortadella”), erbazzone, first
courses, filled fresh pasta, fried white meat and
fish and even with pizza. In the darker variety it is
delicious with “cappelletti” and “lasagne”, as well as
with cold cuts, red meat, in particular pork, boiled
and roast meat served with tasty sauces, grilled
meat and fried or stewed fish. The medium-sweet
version is excellent with delicate local dishes that
tend towards sweetness, whereas the sweet version
is ideal for accompanying fruit and pastries
and biscuits.
Worth seeing
Info: Consorzio Promozione e Tutela Vini Reggiani
(Consortium to Promote and Protect Wines from
Reggio) - www.vinireggiani.it
Every year in October, in Correggio, Lambrusco is
celebrated in “Il Raccontavino” part of San Luca Fair.
Info: Correggio Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
In Montecchio Emilia, 30 km from Reggio, it is possible
to visit a wine museum dedicated to Lambrusco, “from
the countryside to the wine cellar” hosted at “Tenuta”
Rampata Farm.
Info: Wine Museum
www.acetaiamedici.it
CANOSSA CASTLE
The strategic position of this castle has made it a
natural stronghold since time immemorial. Canossa
became a fortified town of the feud of the Attonidi,
the powerful family of Lombard origin that enjoyed
its period of greatest splendour thanks to Countess
Matilda. The most famous image linked to the history
of the castle is that of Emperor Henry IV, pleading at
the foot of the castle and waiting to be received by
Pope Gregory VII in January 1077. After the death of
Matilda, in 1115 the castle began a period of decline
marked by its destruction in 1255 at the hands of the
commune of Reggio. In 1557, at the head of 5,000
foot soldiers and 800 horsemen, Ottavio Farnese
attacked the fortress with cannon fire and destroyed
it again. The castle now houses a small, recentlyrenovated National Museum that houses, amongst
31 - Reggio Emilia & surroundings
other items, a precious baptismal font dating from the
12th century.
Info: Tourist Information Office of the Lands of Matilda
di Canossa ([email protected] www.matildedicanossa.it)
BRESCELLO
The lower Reggio area provided the setting for all
the films based on the famous tales of Giovannino
Guareschi. In fact, Brescello is home to the Don
Camillo and Peppone Museum, which is housed in an
austere building, a former Benedictine monastery,
close to Piazza Maggiore. It was founded in 1989
thanks to a group of enthusiasts. The museum contains
mementoes and souvenirs linked to the saga: from the
bicycle that belonged to Fernandel, to the motorbike
owned by Peppone, as well as lots of videocassettes,
books and food and wine products. Other places made
famous by the films are dotted around the village (the
large bell, the square and, above all, the church with
its bell tower and Crucifix).
Info: Don Camillo & Peppone Museum
[email protected]
Modena
& surroundings
HUMAN DRAUGHTS
Castelvetro
2nd weekend in September
SHOWCASES, MOTORS AND BALSAMIC FLAVOURS
Spilamberto
1st weekend in October
To eat
• Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI
• Cotechino Modena PGI
• Emilia Romagna pears PGI
• Modena ham PDO
• Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese PDO
• Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO
• Sour cherries of Modena PGI
• Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO
• Zampone Modena PGI
To drink
• Bianco di Castelfranco Emilia IGT
• Emilia IGT
• Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC
• Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce DOC
• Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC
• Modena or di Modena DOC
• Reno DOC
33 - Modena & surroundings
Events
Modena began as the Roman city of
Mutina and it has remains of civilizations
ranging from the Palaeolithic to the
Bronze Age; the latter include the now
famous “terramare”, typical villages
founded in Emilia around the middle of
the second millennium. The industrial
and cultural motoring heritage of the
area near Modena, that has earned it
the name the “Land of Engines”, boasts
companies such as Ferrari, Maserati,
Pagani Automobili, B.G. Engineering,
De Tomaso and Bugatti. Modena is
also synonymous with good food and
eating well has been handed down from
a sophisticated gastronomic culture that
flourished on the tables of the nobility
and the exclusive court of the Dukes of
INFO:
Modena Tourist Information Office
Tel. +39 059 2032660
turismo.comune.modena.it
www.appenninomodenese.net
Don’t miss
COTECHINO AND ZAMPONE PGI
“Cotechino” and “zampone” are typical products of
Modena. They consist in a mixture of lean meat, fat
and pork rind with the addition of salt, pepper and
other spices; to make cotechino the mixture is stuffed
into a natural or artificial gut, whilst to make zampone
it is stuffed into the skin of the pig’s front trotter,
which also gives it its shape. Both are slow cooked in
boiling water and traditionally served with lentils or
mashed potatoes.
Este. Modena is famous for its unique
selection of delicatessen foods like
balsamic vinegar, cold cuts, zampone
and cotechino, tigelle, gnocchi fritti (fried
dumplings) and borlengho (literally “the
food of the poor”).
In Maranello - home of the automobile
manufacturer Ferrari - the “Taste Grand
Prix” is held in October, offering a perfect
combination of excellent flavours typical
of Modena and the red racing cars that
make the whole world dream.
Info: Terra di Motori Infopoint
[email protected]
www.motorvalley.it
Vignola & cherries
The origin of tortellini has always been
contended by Modena and Bologna; it seems
the dish initially came from Castelfranco
Emilia (at the time part of the territory
of Bologna) and according to legend, was
created by an innkeeper inspired by Venus’
bellybutton. However, the historical origins
of tortellini have been lost in time. These
small pasta parcels, filled with meat and
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese then cooked
in broth (traditionally capon broth) are the
symbol of the cuisine of Emilia all over Italy. In
Castelfranco Emilia, they are celebrated in the
traditional Feast of San Nicola, in the second
week of September.
Vignola is famous throughout Europe for its
cherries. Production begins in May when the
first “Durone Bigarreau” ripens and continues
with the “Mora di Vignola” cherry, a variety
with the best characteristics in terms of
flavour and fragrance. In June, dark cherries
like the “Nero I” and the traditional “Anella”
ripen, whereas late varieties include the “Nero
II” and “Ciliegione” with excellent nutritional
properties. The Cherry, Plum and Typical Fruit
of Vignola Consortium was set up in 1964 to
promote and protect local cherry varieties.
Info: www.cittacastelliciliegi.it
Worth trying
TRADITIONAL BALSAMIC VINEGAR OF MODENA
PDO
Since time immemorial, traditional balsamic vinegar of
Modena PDO has represented the culture and history of
Modena. In fact, its existence is due to the particular
pedoclimatic characteristics of the territory, along
with the skills and know-how of producers. Traditional
balsamic vinegar is obtained from grape must that is
cooked, matured by slow acetification derived from
natural fermentation and gradual concentration, and
then aged for an extremely long time in a series of
small wood barrels (called “batteries”) of decreasing
size and volume without the addition of any aromatic
substances. Various documents refer to vinegar made
using must in the ancient Duchy of Este as early as the
18th century.
Info: Consorzio Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena
(Consortium of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena)
www.balsamico.it
Spilamberto is the capital of balsamic vinegar and it
has a museum dedicated to it.
Info: Museo del Balsamico Tradizionale (Traditional
Balsamic Vinegar Museum)
[email protected]
In October, Spilamberto also hosts events celebrating
balsamic vinegar and other products.
Info: www.cittacastelliciliegi.it
Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, which has recently
gained PGI recognition, is another typical product of
this area and is popular both in Italy and all over the
world. It is obtained from boiled must, concentrated
35 - Modena & surroundings
Castelfranco Emilia & tortellini
Zocca & borlengo
This is a typical dish of the Apennines of
Modena, whose origins are contended by the
villages of Zocca, Montombraro, Guiglia and
Vignola. It is a type of thin bread, similar in
consistency to a pancake. The dough is very
simple and made using water, flour, eggs
and salt. It is served piping hot, folded into
quarters and seasoned with “cunza”, a mixture
of pancetta, lard, garlic and rosemary that
encloses all the flavours of this land. Borlengo
is “sociable” food and naturally, every village
fête serves it. In Guiglia, in May, there’s even a
Borlengo Festival. To promote and hand down
the “culture of borlengo” a school has been
set up called the “Compagnia della Cunza” and
there’s even a borlengo workshop in Lame di
Zocca (Info: Tel. +39 059 985584).
Info: Museo del Castagno e Museo-Laboratorio
del Borlengo (Chestnut Museum and Borlengo
Museum-Workshop)
Tel. +39 340 0073159
Mobile +39 340 0073159
www.museodelcastagno.promappennino.it
must and wine vinegar based on a process that is
decidedly quicker than that used for traditional
balsamic vinegar. The musts used to produce it come
exclusively from grapes grown in Emilia Romagna.
The product can even be aged for more than 3 years.
Info: www.consorziobalsamico.it
37 - Modena & surroundings
A toast
LAMBRUSCO DOC WINES OF MODENA
Lambrusco di Modena comes from the “labrusca”
vine, which was known to both the Etruscans and
Romans. Cato mentions it in “De Agri Cultura” in the
2nd century BC calling it a “singulare remedium ad
refrigerandos in morbis corporum ardores” (“a unique
remedy for lowering a fever”). There is evidence
of it being taken to the ducal wine cellars on 29
October 1693 and half a century later, it was already
extremely popular at court. In his monumental work
“Principali vitigni di vino coltivati in Italia” (on the
main vines grown in Italy), Italo Cosmo describes
three different types of Lambrusco vines in Modena
called Grasparossa, Salamino and Sorbara, the latter
of which he judged to be the most important because
it produced the best wine.
Info: Consorzio Marchio Storico dei Lambruschi Modenesi
(Consortium of the Historical Brand of Modenese
Lambrusco Wines) - www.lambrusco.net
In September, grapes and Lambrusco are celebrated in
a huge village festival in
Castelvetro.
Info: www.cittacastelliciliegi.it
Gnocco fritto & tigella
“Gnocco fritto”, a type of fried dumpling,
is made from dough similar to bread dough,
traditionally fried in lard and served with
cold cuts, cheeses or marmalade. Popular
throughout the area, it was created as a
substitute for bread and in the countryside
was once eaten for breakfast or as a midmorning snack for farmers who had been up
since dawn. Now every village fête includes
it on its menu. Another typical dish of the
Modena area is “tigella” or “crescentina”,
traditional mountain bread cooked over wood
in a fireplace between two clay discs. It is then
filled with cold cuts, soft cheeses or a mixture
of lard and rosemary. Visit the permanent
exhibition on the tigella at the visitors’ centre
of Sassi di Roccamalatina Park in Samone di
Guiglia.
The Apennines and ParmigianoReggiano PDO
The Apennines of Modena are one of the most
famous areas for the production of ParmigianoReggiano cheese, probably the best-known
Italian cheese in the world. In October, in
Lama Mocogno, the king of cheeses is the star
of an event called “Parmigiano-Reggiano da
gustare”.
Info: www.appenninomodenese.net
Info: Museo delle Tigelle
(Tigella Museum)
[email protected]
Worth seeing
CARPI AND THE LOWER MODENA AREA
THE CATHEDRAL AND GHIRLANDINA
In the lower part of the Province of Modena, which
is crossed by the Secchia and Panaro Rivers, the land
around the Renaissance town of Carpi is extremely
rich. Indeed, it is the cradle of Sorbara and Salamino
di Santa Croce Lambrusco wines, as well as a treasure
trove of other typical products and gastronomic
delicacies, like traditional balsamic vinegar of
Modena, Parmesan cheese, traditional cold cuts, fruit
and traditional cakes.
Modena Cathedral is one of the most important
monuments of the Romanesque period. The art of
Lanfranco, Wiligelmo and then the Campionesi Masters
contributed enormously to making this building a
place for practicing and spreading the faith. It has
a nave with two aisles and outside, has an elegant
continuous portico with triple round arches from the
façade to the apse. The large rose window and two
side portals on the façade, as well as the wonderful
“Regia Door” on the south side, are by the Campionesi
Masters who, after Lanfranco, worked in Modena until
around 1230. Building work on the characteristic
“Ghirlandina” Tower, which is just over 86 metres high,
began in 1100 and was completed in 1309 under the
direction of Enrico da Campione. The spire was added
later and completed in 1587.
Info: Terre d’Argine Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
39 - Modena & surroundings
Info: Modena Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
Bologna
& surroundings
FLAVOUR WEEKENDS IN BOLOGNA
Bologna
Weekends in October
TARTUFESTA IN THE APENNINES OF BOLOGNA
Municipalities in the Apennines of Bologna
Weekends in October and November
BACCANALE
Imola
First three weekends in November
To eat
•Emilia Romagna pears PGI
•Green asparagus of Altedo PGI
•Marrons of Castel del Rio PGI
•Mortadella Bologna PGI
•Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese PDO
•Peaches and nectarines of Romagna PGI
•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO
•Shallots of Romagna PGI
•White Bullock of the Central Apennines PGI
To drink
•Albana di Romagna and Romagna Albana Spumante DOCG
•Bianco del Sillaro IGT
•Colli Bolognesi DOC
•Colli di Imola DOC
•Colli Imolesi IGT
•Colli di Romagna Centrale DOC
•Emilia IGT
•Reno DOC
•Sangiovese di Romagna and Trebbiano di Romagna DOC
41 - Bologna & surroundings
Events
Bologna is the main city in Emilia Romagna,
a crossroads between the north and south of
the Italian peninsula. Initially an Etruscan
then a Gallic town, it was also a Roman
colony and municipality and became a
free commune during the Middle Ages. The
world’s first university was founded between
its walls in the 11th century. The charming
old town centre has numerous buildings
and churches that house a wealth of works
of art, bearing witness to the cultural
importance of Bologna over the centuries.
A walk under the almost 40 km of porticoes
that adorn its streets, mean visitors can
enjoy city life, shop in prestigious boutiques
or small or large markets and generally
get to know its many aspects. Bologna is
rich in art and history, a delightful place
to visit and densely packed with culture.
Bologna’s gastronomic fame dates back
to the Middle Ages, but its traditions are
closely linked to the university; the mix of
students from all over Italy and Europe
and professors of different nationalities
helped to enrich the city’s gastronomic
culture. Bologna, the fat thus goes hand-inhand with so-called Bologna, the learned.
Don’t miss the Archaeological Municipal
Museum, Diocesan Museum and the brand
new modern art museum (MamBO), as
well as the Giorgio Morandi Museum and
the studio-house of this great 20th-century
artist.
INFO:
Bologna Tourist Information Office
Tel. +39 051 239660 - 251947 - 6472113
www.bolognaturismo.info
Don’t miss
MORTADELLA BOLOGNA PGI
Mouth-watering and delicious, Mortadella Bologna
PGI boasts an ancient history. Its roots date back to
the 16th century and there are increasing numbers
of historical-literary references associated to this
product. Mortadella Bologna PGI, made from pure
pork, is a cooked cold cut that is pink, lightly spiced
and has an intense fragrance. Once cut, the surface is
velvety and a uniform pink colour; it is fragrant, with
a delicate taste. A festival called “Mortadella Please”
is held every October in Zola Predosa, on the hills near
Bologna.
Info: Zola Predosa Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
Info: Imola Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
www.stradaviniesapori.it
Castel San Pietro Terme & honey
At the foot of the green hills near Bologna,
on the border between Emilia and Romagna,
is Castel San Pietro Terme. As well as soft
cheeses, such as “squacquerone” and
“Castel San Pietro”, the town is famous for
its excellent extra-virgin honey. In fact, a
honey observatory has been set up here that
groups together Italian apiarian institutions
and organizations and has been entrusted
by ISMEA (Institute of Studies, Research and
Information on Agricultural Markets) to carry
out a monthly survey of the state of honey
production and wholesale prices.
Info: Castel San Pietro Tourist Information Office
[email protected] - www.stradaviniesapori.it
In Bologna, at the National Apiculture
Institute (80, Via di Saliceto), it is possible to
visit a museum dedicated to honey and bees; a
form of farming that has always been practiced
in Emilia Romagna.
C.R.A. Unità di ricerca di apicoltura e
bachicoltura
(Apiculture and Silkworm Breeding Research
Unit)
[email protected]
TAGLIATELLE & HOMEMADE PASTA
Bologna is famous for its tagliatelle with Bolognese
meat sauce, tortellini and all kinds of traditional,
handmade pasta. All over the city, visitors can buy
handmade pasta, made using eggs, flour and water,
in many shops that specialize in fresh pasta where
“sfogline” - the women who make handmade pasta work. The best compete each year to test their skills
in an event called “Il Matterello d’Oro” (or “Golden
Rolling Pin”) at Palazzo Re Enzo in the old town.
Info: Bologna Tourist Information Office
touristoffi[email protected]
43 - Bologna & surroundings
Imola & mutton
Altedo & green asparagus PGI
The “green prince” of Altedo, a small town
between Bologna and Ferrara, is asparagus.
In 1923 some farmers from Altedo travelled
to Nantes in France, returning with
clear technical notions about asparagus.
Subsequently, several important cooperatives
were set up to promote and market this
vegetable. Every year, in mid-May, Altedo
hosts an asparagus festival. Another important
place for this spring delicacy is Mesola, in the
province of Ferrara, where an Asparagus Fair is
held between the end of April and early May.
Worth trying
BOLOGNA POTATOES AND TRUFFLES
The Bologna area has always been famous for
producing top-quality potatoes. Between the 60s and
70s, the variety that became popular here was the
“Primura”, selected in Holland and excellent for all
kinds of uses. In the mid-70s, the first and as yet only
“Potato Exchange” was founded in order to set potato
prices in the field and the processing and packaging
warehouses. In 2002, the idea was first forwarded for
the Bologna Potato PDO, which is now almost a reality.
It is oval, uniform, with smooth, light-coloured skin
and firm, straw-yellow flesh and extraordinary for all
culinary uses.
In September, the Bologna potato is celebrated in
various events. “Patata in Bo” involves all the city’s
restaurants and numerous shops, whilst on the
Apennines a potato festival is held in Tolè, an outlying
hamlet of Vergato.
In Budrio, on the plains, there is a Potato Museum
that covers the history of its diffusion from the 17th
century to the present day.
Info: Museo della Patata (Potato Museum)
[email protected]
As well as potatoes, Bologna is famous for another
tuber, the fragrant truffle “dug up” in autumn in the
woods around the city. The truffle is the king of the
autumn kitchen and is celebrated in various events
such as “Tartufesta” held in various towns in the
Apennines and the White Truffle Festival of Savigno
and the Hills of Bologna.
Info: [email protected]
The cuisine of Castel del Rio is based on
the nuances of three different gastronomic
traditions that only a border territory boasts.
However, the local product par excellence is
the Castel del Rio marron. It is unlike normal
“chestnuts” given its size and sweeter taste
and fragrance. Pureed boiled marrons are used
to prepare “capaltéz”, a typical local dish,
and flour made from dried marrons is used to
prepare “castagnaccio” (chestnut cake) and
“sweet polenta”. The rooms of Palazzo Alidosi
house a delightful museum well worth visiting
(Chestnut Museum, Tel. +39 0542 95906) and
in October the town holds a chestnut festival.
Info: Office of the Municipality of Castel del Rio
[email protected]
www.stradaviniesapori.it
A toast
PIGNOLETTO DOC
Pignoletto is the name of the autochthonous vine
used to make this unique, delicious and exclusive
wine; it is rightly considered the “King of the Hills
of Bologna”. Even Pliny the Elder mentions a wine
called “pino lieto” in his “Naturalis Historia”. It is
a lovely, light straw-yellow colour with pale green
reflexes and a delicate, fruity bouquet. It is dry and
with good acidity, it is fairly persistent and can be
either sparkling or still. As it is delicate and light it is
excellent as an aperitif or for the entire meal. It is also
ideal with white meats, fresh cheeses and tortellini in
broth! At the end of September there is an exhibition
of wines from the hills in Bologna with tastings and
other events.
Info: Consorzio Vini Colli Bolognesi
(Consortium of the Wines of the Hills of Bologna)
www.collibolognesi.it
45 - Bologna & surroundings
Castel del Rio & marrons PGI
Worth seeing
THE EMILIA ROMAGNA WINE CELLAR
The Regional Wine Cellar of Emilia Romagna, housed in
the renovated cellars of the Sforzesca Fortress in the
mediaeval village of Dozza, has been working since
1978 to promote appreciation of the wines of Emilia
Romagna in Italy and worldwide. The permanent
exhibition has over 800 labels on display and for sale
from about 200 member producers. The wine bar also
organizes interesting wine-tasting events to raise
awareness of the inebriating world of wine. An event
called “Wine Forum” is held the last week of May.
Info: www.enotecaemiliaromagna.it
MEDIAEVAL BOLOGNA
As early as the 1960s, the main square of
Medicina, a small town in the lower Bolognese
area, was the benchmark market for setting
the price for onion production in the entire
Province of Bologna. The town is also where
the Confraternity of the Magnificent Medicina
Onion was founded and the traditional
Medicina onion fair offers visitors an event
dedicated entirely to this vegetable.
Info: www.stradaviniesapori.it
Over the centuries, the old town centre of Bologna
has managed to retain the colours, proportions and
architecture of the Middle Ages; starting with the
houses with towers, which are still a symbol of the
city. Don’t miss the views of the rooftops of Bologna
from the top of the Asinelli Tower, the monumental
complex of the 7 churches, known as the Basilica of
Santo Stefano, and the old Mediaeval market that adds
a touch of colour thanks to its narrow streets, stalls
with food products and the chatter of the traders.
Info: Bologna Tourist Information Office
touristoffi[email protected]
47 - Bologna & surroundings
Medicina & onions
Ferrara
& surroundings
RICE DAYS
Jolanda di Savoia
End of August
EEL FESTIVAL
Comacchio
First two weekends in October
To eat
•Coppia Ferrarese PGI
•Emilia Romagna pears PGI
•Green asparagus of Altedo PGI
•Peaches and nectarines of Romagna PGI
•Rice from the Po Delta PGI
•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO
To drink
•Emilia IGT
•Bosco Eliceo DOC
49 - Ferrara & surroundings
Events
The city of Ferrara gained considerable
prestige under the House of Este and to
this day is a fine example of balance and
harmony. The spirit of the Renaissance
can be seen throughout, on the streets of
the city peppered with dozens of buildings
and monumental churches, in the cloisters
and gardens and in the many parks and
gardens. Since 1995, the old town centre
of Ferrara has been a UNESCO World
Heritage Site as an “admirable example
of a city planned in the Renaissance whose
old town centre is still intact.” Alongside
its historical and cultural heritage, the
court of the House of Este left Ferrara
an excellent culinary tradition. Sweet
and savoury flavours combine, the taste
shown in preparing and serving dishes
INFO:
Ferrara Tourist Information Office
Tel. +39 0532 209370 - 299303
www.ferrarainfo.com - www.ferraraterraeacqua.it
Don’t miss
COPPIA FERRARESE
Info: www.ferrarainfo.com
is a pleasure for the eyes and the palate.
The cuisine of Ferrara still combines the
strong flavour of salama da sugo with
the delicacy of mashed potato and the
sweet crust of pasticcio ferrarese encloses
the fragrance of meat and macaroni
in béchamel sauce. An extraordinary
example of the sweet-and-sour cuisine
inherited from the court of the House of
Este are pumpkin-filled pasta parcels
(called “cappellacci”), served with butter
and sage or meat sauce. Pampapato is a
traditional cake made using almonds and
candied fruit, but a place of honour goes
to local bread, with the famous “coppia”
- a temptation difficult to resist.
Voghiera & garlic
The first documents to mention rice in the
Ferrara area are two letters from Duke Galeazzo
Maria Sforza dated 1475, whilst the “Diario
Ferrarese” by Ludovico Muratori mentions
that “in the year 1495 rice was sold in Ferrara
at only four quattrini a pound”, which shows
that local production was extremely high
and that rice was grown systematically in the
lands governed by the House of Este. Rice
was a constant presence in the agricultural
landscape of the Po Delta where it became the
main crop on reclaimed land. The nature of the
reclaimed land became a crucial factor in the
agricultural use of the same. In recent times,
mechanization and the introduction of new
varieties have made it possible to continue
growing rice. Although on a smaller scale,
this system is technically advanced and makes
it possible to earn more from this than from
other crops.
The presence of garlic as an important product
of Voghiera is confirmed by accounting
documents dating back to 1928 and referring
to the trade of “garlic and onions” with
several European countries. Over 60% of
garlic from the Ferrara area is produced
within the municipality of Voghiera. It is a
good, uniform size and bright white in colour.
Thanks to collaboration with the University
of Ferrara, the biomolecular and commodity
characteristics of the product have been
outlined and the top three varieties produced
in the area are tested in experimental fields.
Garlic from Voghiera is awaiting confirmation
of PDO recognition. Every year, in summer, a
Garlic Festival is held here.
Info: Associazione Risicoltori del Delta del Po
(Association of Rice Growers’ of the Po Delta)
www.risodeltadelpo.it
Info: www.stradaviniesaporiferrara.it
51 - Ferrara & surroundings
The Po Delta & rice PGI
Comacchio & eels
Eel is not only a delicious protagonist of the
cuisine of the lower Ferrara area and Comacchio
in particular. In this damp environment, once
hostile to man, it has become the main source
of sustenance. In any case, eels remain a typical
speciality of Comacchio that can be eaten in
various ways: from delicate risotto made with
eel-brodetto “a bec d’asan” (literally “made in
a hurry”), accompanied by toasted polenta.
Amongst the 48 different eel dishes possible,
there are some highly sophisticated options
like sweet-and-sour eel chops, worthy of
nouvelle cuisine. However, nothing equals the
intense fragrance that it releases when grilled.
For the past ten years, Comacchio has dedicated
two weekends in October to the “queen of the
valleys” with an Eel Festival; an event that has
become a cornerstone of tradition.
Info: Comacchio Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
Info: www.stradaviniesaporiferrara.it
Near Comacchio, an old building previously
used for processing fish now houses a museum
where it is possible to see how eels are
marinated and then taste this unmistakeable
dish. The “Manifattura dei Marinati” museum
is also a shop where visitors can buy tinned
marinated eels, along with other local fish
specialities.
Info: Museo dell’Anguilla “Manifattura dei
Marinati” (Manifattura dei Marinati Eel
Museum)
www.parcodeltapo.it
Worth trying
SALAMA DA SUGO
The origins of “salama da sugo” seem to date back to
the times of the House of Este. The main course of
ducal dinners, it became popular amongst farmers in
Ferrara and then a dish for important occasions. Over
time, cooking this “sausage” has become an authentic
ritual. It is first wrapped in a cloth and then hung over
a wooden stick placed diagonally across the top of a
pan full of water, so that this precious product never
even skims the bottom or sides. After 6 hours, the
external casing is removed and the sausage is cut into
slices and placed on a soft bed of mashed potato.
Info: www.stradaviniesaporiferrara.it
Between September and November, the village of
Madonna dei Boschi di Poggio Renatico hosts a
tradition festival celebrating this local speciality.
Info: Poggio Renatico Proloco Office
Tel. + 39 0532 209370.
In July, it is also celebrated in a popular festival in
Buonacompra, a small village near Cento.
Info: Cento Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
53 - Ferrara & surroundings
A toast
FORTANA DOC
The wines of Ferrara grow on thin, sandy soil. The
peculiarity of wines from grapes grown on sand also
lies in the integrity of the plant; the vines have still
on the whole not been grafted. Fortana, a ruby-red
wine that can be more or less intense, has a salty
bouquet and is medium-sweet when young, turning
drier with age. It is moderately tannic and acidulous
and can be either still or sparkling. It is ideal served
with fish soups, eel and shellfish, as well as cotechino,
the famous salama da sugo and traditional local pasta
dishes.
Info: Consorzio Vini DOC Bosco Eliceo
(Consortium of Bosco Eliceo DOC Wines)
www.vinidellesabbie.com
Worth seeing
POMPOSA ABBEY
Info: Codigoro - Pomposa Abbey Tourist Information
Office - [email protected]
THE HERCULEAN ADDITION
Info: Ferrara Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
Ostellato & pumpkin
Doughnuts were once only made for special
occasions; the term “brazadela” derives from
the fact they were slipped onto the arm.
In fact, sellers carried several doughnuts
threaded onto their arms, whilst customers
slipped them onto their right arm so they
could pour wine with the left. In the past, it
was only made for special occasions because it
was rich and there was little money for buying
chocolate and other sweets.
Every year in November, Ostellato, near the
Po Delta of Ferrara, celebrates pumpkins;
a generous fruit that is at its best in the
valleys of the Mezzano, the last large area
of marshland of the lower Ferrara area to be
reclaimed after the Second World War. Here
the pumpkins, which are called “violina”, have
compact orange flesh that is firm and sweet,
making them a delicious ingredient of local
cuisine.
Info: Argenta Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
Info: www.stradaviniesaporiferrara.it
55 - Ferrara & surroundings
Argenta & brazadela
Ravenna
& surroundings
ENOLOGICA AND EXHIBITION OF TYPICAL PRODUCTS OF
ROMAGNA
Faenza
3rd weekend in November
4 FESTIVALS FOR 3 HILLS: PORK DELICACIES, VOLPINA PEAR
AND MATURE CHEESE FESTIVAL, TRUFFLE FESTIVAL, OLIVE
TREE AND OLIVE OIL FESTIVAL
Brisighella
Sundays in November
To eat
•Brisighella extra-vergin olive oil PDO
•Emilia Romagna pears PGI
•Grana Padano PDO
•Peaches and nectarines of Romagna PGI
•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO
•Shallots of Romagna PGI
•White Bullock of the Central Apennines PGI
To drink
•Albana di Romagna and Romagna Albana Spumante DOCG
•Bosco Eliceo DOC
•Cagnina di Romagna DOC
•Colli di Faenza DOC
•Colli di Romagna Centrale DOC
•Pagadebit di Romagna DOC
•Ravenna IGT
•Sangiovese di Romagna e Trebbiano di Romagna DOC
57 - Ravenna & surroundings
Events
Ravenna is an extraordinary treasure
trove of art, history and culture. It is a
city with ancient origins and a glorious
past and was three times a capital city;
of the Western Roman Empire, of the
Empire of Theodore, King of the Goths,
and of the Byzantine Empire of Europe.
Its basilicas and baptisteries still house a
wealth of mosaics dating from the 5th 6th centuries and eight monuments in the
city are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
It has numerous cycle paths, making it
easy to reach any part of it, including
Teodorico Park, the planetarium,
the Garden of Forgotten Herbs or the
Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe. The
city has restaurants serving traditional
local dishes - from the valleys to the
Adriatic Sea. The most popular dishes
are cheese-filled cappelletti, passatelli,
grilled meats, grilled oily fish and for
more curious palates, frogs and eels.
INFO:
Ravenna Tourist Information Office
Tel. +39 0544 35404 - 35755
www.turismo.ravenna.it
ravennaintorno.provincia.ra.it
The Province of Ravenna has a rich
agricultural tradition, from cereal
growing and fruit farming in the plains
around the towns of Lugo, Russi and
Massalombarda, to peaches, nectarines
and kiwis near Faenza, where the hills
are also dedicated to olive growing, to
farming (mutton and “mora romagnola”
breed pigs) and wine growing and
production. The Adriatic coast of
Ravenna has a number of resorts, like
Marina di Ravenna, Cervia and Milano
Marittima, where fish cuisine reigns,
in particular oily fish such as sardines,
anchovies and mackerel, typical of the
upper Adriatic and with extraordinary
nutritional properties. The pine forests
and marshlands on the coastal strip are
part of the Po River Delta Park, an area
of extraordinary environmental value
and one of the largest and most important
in Europe.
Emerald green with golden reflexes and
tones, Brisighella Olive Oil PDO has a sharp
and pleasantly bitter flavour. It is excellent
as a dressing for vegetables and fish and
to prepare sauces. The area covered by the
denomination “Brisighella” has certain
characteristics that are different to the rest of
the region. In particular, the range of varieties
consists primarily in a single variety called the
“Nostrana di Brisighella”, which is not found
in other regions. PDO Brisighella extra-virgin
olive oil must be made using a ratio of not
less than 90% of the olive variety “Nostrana
di Brisighella”.
Info: www.terredifaenza.it
At the end of November, Brisighella olive oil
is celebrated in the town’s Olive and Olive Oil
Festival and it is also possible to visit an openair olive oil museum here.
Info: Museo all’aperto dell’olio d’oliva (Outdoor
Olive Oil Museum) - [email protected]
Don’t miss
THE CERVIA SALT MARSHES
Salt has always been the white gold of this famous
seaside resort on the Adriatic coast. It has always
been known as “sweet” salt due to the limited
presence of bitter salts, which give a slightly bitter
aftertaste that is less pleasant to taste. Production
has now been recovered so it can be presented as a
traditional product of the history of Cervia and its
culinary use can be promoted. Sweet salt from Cervia
is one of the 195 Slow Food presidia and there is a
museum dedicated to it well worth visiting.
Info: Museo del Sale di Cervia (Cervia Salt Museum)
www.turismo.comunecervia.it
59 - Ravenna & surroundings
Brisighella & extra-virgin olive oil PDO
Casola Valsenio & the herb garden
Info: The Herb Garden
[email protected]
Info: Casola Valsenio Tourist Information
Office
[email protected]
Ancient varieties of grapes like “Bursòn”
or “Centesimino” have been rediscovered
by wine cellars particularly interested in
tradition and the territory. These varieties
of autochthonous grapes are celebrated in
festivals and events like “Figli di un Bacco
Minore” (“Children of a Lesser Bacchus”)
in Bagnacavallo, an art city seventeen
kilometres from Faenza with a beautiful
mediaeval old town centre, the first to
relaunch Bursòn grapes.
Info: www.romagnadeste.it
Worth trying
PIADINA AND FISH SOUP
61 - Ravenna & surroundings
Bagnacavallo & Bursòn
Brisighella & its specialities
Brisighella is an ancient mediaeval spa town
in the Lamone Valley, between Ravenna
and Florence, which is rich in architectural
beauty, history and traditions. Here in July,
mediaeval festivals are held and in autumn
there are a series of events linked to the wealth
of the local gastronomic offer, in particular
the superior meats of the “mora romagnola”
breed of pigs and mutton, without forgetting
truffles, “volpina” pears and “moretto”
artichokes; the latter a rustic variety that has
undergone no genetic modification. It is not
just an ordinary artichoke therefore, but an
authentic gastronomic rarity that the town
dedicates a whole day to in the “Moretto
Artichoke Festival”.
Info: Brisighella Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
A toast
Worth seeing
THE WINES OF FAENZA
RAVENNA AND FORGOTTEN HERBS
The DOC wines of the hills of Faenza can be divided
into several types, including Albana, Sangiovese and
Trebbiano. In its passita form (with grapes left to
dry in the wine cellar) Albana DOCG, made from an
autochthonous vine of Romagna, is an extraordinary
dessert wine to accompany cakes or biscuits, as
well as mature cheeses. Amongst red wines, classic
Sangiovese di Romagna triumphs and is a worthy
accompaniment for “cappelletti”, grilled and roast
meats and cold cuts. Wines from the province are
celebrated in various events in November, including
“Giovinbacco in Festa” in Ravenna and “Enologica” in
Faenza.
Between Piazza Arcivescovado and Piazza Kennedy,
hidden behind imposing walls, but open to the
public is a delightful little garden. The Garden of
Forgotten Herbs is a place where history and nature
meet to offer city dwellers and tourists an alternative
destination for their walks. The flowerbeds are full of
herbs recovered from prescription books belonging
to apothecaries and famous herbs used daily in the
Mediterranean diet. The garden is the ideal place for
relaxing and enjoying this unusual botanical delight.
Info: www.stradadelsangiovese.it
Info: Giardino Rasponi (Rasponi Gardens)
Piazzetta Ragazzini Severino - Ravenna
Tel. +39 0544 34764
This typical vegetable of the Province of
Ravenna, in particular the municipalities of
Riolo Terme, is similar in shape to garlic, but
its taste and flavour recall that of onions.
These shallots are grown without using
chemical treatments or fertilizers. They are
not reproduced through hybridization or
genetic manipulation, but only via original
bulbs that have rigorously maintained the
same genetic complement for almost three
millennia. Shallots are extremely versatile
in cuisine and can be used as a base for
preparing sauces, soups, stuffing or as a key
ingredient of meat and ham sauce.
Info: Riolo Terme Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
BASILICA OF SANT’APOLLINARE IN CLASSE
The basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe, with its worldfamous mosaics, is situated about 5 kilometres from
the centre of Ravenna. It was built in the first half of
the 6th century and dedicated to St. Apollinare, first
bishop of Ravenna. The façade has a portico, under
which there are marbles and inscriptions taken from
the church. The main door has Greek marble jambs
and architrave. The interior still retains the charm
of its original splendour with two rows of twelve
diagonally-veined Greek marble columns. The apse
conch is completely occupied by the singular portrayal
of St. Apollinare, his arms in a praying position,
surrounded by his flock symbolized by twelve sheep in
a huge field full of flowers, surmounted by a symbolic
representation of the Transfiguration. The basilica is
at the heart of an area of great environmental interest
in the Po Delta Park.
Info: Ravenna Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
[email protected]
63 - Ravenna & surroundings
Riolo Terme & shallot of
Romagna PGI
Forlì Cesena
& surroundings
WINES AND FLAVOURS ON THE STREETS OF BERTINORO AND
LONGIANO
Bertinoro - mid-June
Longiano - mid-July
AUTUMN IN CESENATICO - FISH CELEBRATES
Cesenatico
Late October - early November
To eat
•Extra-virgin olive oil of the Hills of Romagna PDO
•Fossa Cheese from Sogliano PDO
•Peaches and nectarines of Romagna PGI
•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO
•Shallots of Romagna PGI
•White Bullock of the Central Apennines PGI
To drink
•Albana di Romagna and Romagna Albana Spumante DOCG
•Cagnina di Romagna DOC
•Colli di Romagna Centrale DOC
•Forlì IGT
•Pagadebit di Romagna DOC
•Rubicone IGT
•Sangiovese di Romagna e Trebbiano di Romagna DOC
65 - Forlì - Cesena & surroundings
Events
The city of Forlì owes its name to the
Roman place name Forum Livii. The
city’s central position along the Via
Emilia has marked its history, making it a
flourishing trade centre between the hills,
the plain and the nearby sea, contended
and conquered by outsiders. The old town
centre has a charming irregular shape,
with the streets radiating out from central
Piazza Saffi before broadening into wide
routes of communication. The city has
always held a special place for culture,
history and tradition. The Province of
Forlì is an area of great agricultural
and farming traditions, focusing in
particular on poultry (chicken and
turkey) and white meats (rabbit). The
poultry farming district of Forlì is one of
the most important in Italy and Europe
and every two years the town’s exhibition
centre hosts the sector’s key exhibition
“Fieravicola”.
Don’t miss
PIADINA AND CASSONI
A healthy dish made using frugal ingredients like
water, flour and salt. Thanks to its delicious flavour
and fragrance, “piadina” has always been popular on
the plains, on the coast and in the hills. Numerous
roadside kiosks have opened to serve this delicious
snack. It is excellent alone, with fresh cheese,
vegetables, cold cuts and in lots of other ways. The
dough is made using flour, water and salt with the
addition of lard to make it softer. It is then rolled
out and cooked on a hot plate. Also try “cassoni” - a
piadina filled and then folded in half, closed with the
prongs a fork and cooked on a hot plate.
Info: www.stradavinisaporifc.it
Crossed by the Via Emilia, Cesena is a
city with a lively economy and a splendid
town centre that over the years has been
returned to its former splendour and is
a popular place for citizens and tourists
to meet. Cesena draws its strength from
its territory and warm and welcoming
people who have skilfully combined an
agricultural vocation with modernity;
the beauty of the city is tangible outside
the old town too. In fact, in spring
the hills are dotted with peach and
cherry blossoms. Home to an exhibition
centre that hosts the most important
fair (Macfrut) dedicated to fruit and
vegetables in the Mediterranean area,
Cesena is the capital of one of the most
important fruit and vegetable districts in
Italy, with a strong presence of companies
producing, processing and marketing
fruit and vegetables.
INFO:
Forlì Tourist Information Office
Tel. +39 0543 712435
www.turismoforlivese.it
www.turismo.fc.it
INFO:
Cesena Tourist Information Office
Tel. +39 0547 356327
www.comune.cesena.fc.it/cesena/turismo
www.turismo.fc.it
Worth trying
BUSTRENG
It is difficult to identify the origins of “bustreng”,
a delicious cake whose origins are contended by
Romagna and the upper Marche region. There are
now various types available - starting from the basic
recipe of stale bread soaked in milk, every town adds
ingredients such as rice, raisins, almonds, walnuts,
apples, cheese, chestnut flour, dried figs or even
pig’s blood (called by farmers “sweet bustreng”).
It is often confused with a millet cake, called
“migliaccio”, and there are also various dialectal
names for this cake including bustreng, bostreng,
bostrengo and bustrengo.
Info: www.stradavinisaporifc.it
The Province of Forlì-Cesena is a treasure
trove of farming culture and civilization.
From agriculture specializing in fruit and
vegetables, farming and wine growing come
delicious, wholesome foods rooted in the ageold traditions of the territory. Unsurprisingly,
this area gave birth to Pellegrino Artusi, a
man of letters from Forlimpopoli and one of
the fathers of Italian cuisine. Here, handmade
pasta dishes, made using flour and fresh eggs,
abound and include “cappelletti” in broth,
“passatelli”, “strozzapreti”, “tortelli” and
“tagliatelle”. Romagnola breed cattle and mora
romagnola breed pigs, with their characteristic
dark coat, provide excellent meats. From the
pastures of the upper Rubicone come muttons,
traditionally grilled. But there’s more than
just meat. There’s also the sea and fish, in
particular “oily” fish, in the food traditions
of the province and Cesenatico, whose canalharbour was designed by Leonardo da Vinci,
is its capital. Typical products continue
with excellent olive oil from the hills near
Longiano, Montiano and Roncofreddo and
with extraordinary cheeses that each year, in
November, are removed from the ditches of
Sogliano al Rubicone. There’s also a wealth
of autumnal products; from mushrooms in
65 - Forlì - Cesena & surroundings
A territory to savour
Predappio and Cusercoli, to white truffles
in Dovadola and Bidente. Here peaches and
nectarines are at their best and have been
awarded European Community PGI protected
origin status. Above all, the local bread par
excellence is piadina, served hot filled with
cold cuts, Swiss chard and “squacquerone”,
typical local soft cheese similar to another
soft cheese called “stracchino” but with a
softer consistency. To accompany cuisine so
rich in products and flavours is one of the most
important wine-making traditions in Italy.
Thanks to the pedoclimatic conditions between
the Adriatic Sea, the plains and the Apennines
and the composition and variety of the land,
the hilly strip between Forlì and Cesena boasts
an age-old wine growing tradition, so much
so that “in Romagna if you ask for water,
they bring you wine”. Three of Romagna’s
autochthonous vines - Albana, Pagadebit
and Cagnina - are characteristic in this area.
But the area’s great red wine is Sangiovese,
whose bouquet and structure changes on
these hills depending on the altitude and soil
characteristics.
Info: www.turismo.fc.it
www.stradavinisaporifc.it
SAVOR
“Savor” (E’ Savor, Savour) is very closely linked to the
preparation of “saba” (a type of sauce). The ingredients
are carefully chosen, each at a different time in the
season - melon and watermelon peel dried in the sun
and cut into thin strips, diced carrots, pumpkin flesh
cut into “pieces” and the candied peel of various citrus
fruits such as lemons, citrons and oranges, walnuts,
pine kernels and sweet almonds all finely chopped,
apples, “volpina” pears, quinces, apricots, peaches or
figs dried in the sun and roughly cut, raisins and any
other fresh fruit. The result is a kind of marmalade with
a “juicy” consistency that is the ideal accompaniment
at breakfast or teatime with bread and piadina or
with fresh and mature cheeses. In Montegelli, on the
Apennines near Cesena, this product is celebrated
every year in September.
Info: www.stradavinisaporifc.it
This is a unique product that can only be eaten
and purchased at the “Festa dei Vignaioli” in
Predappio Alta every year in November. To
produce “La Solfara” grotto cheese, sheep’s
milk cheese from the hills near Siena is used.
Pienza Pecorino cheese, produced in spring,
is matured for two months in the sulphuring
grottoes of a disused mine in Predappio Alta.
The humidity and particular veins of sulphur
present in the grottoes make this cheese strong
and creamy, with a unique, delicate flavour.
This is why “La Solfara” is highly sought-after.
It is produced in limited quantities as there is
little space in the grottoes for maturing.
Info: Pro-loco Tourism Information Office
[email protected]
A toast
SANGIOVESE AND CAGNINA DOC
The hills between Cesena and Forlì are territories
that have an extraordinary vocation to quality
wine production. The Sangiovese di Romagna DOC
wine produced here is at its best, an excellent
accompaniment to the rich local cuisine. Another
typical red wine is Cagnina di Romagna DOC, the
first wine ready immediately after harvesting.
Traditionally, it is served with roasted chestnuts,
sometimes even “drowned” in the wine and removed
using a spoon ready to eat. It is a dessert wine with
a ripe pomegranate red colour with hints of purple on
the edge of the glass. It is also excellent with biscuits
and fruit tarts.
Info: www.stradavinisaporifc.it
Santa Sofia & Raviggiolo
Raviggiolo is a delicious soft cheese that
should be eaten fresh. It is one of the products
that symbolize the Central Apennines between
Romagna and Tuscany although, according
to tradition, it was first referred to in Santa
Sofia, on the slopes of the Tuscan-Romagna
Apennines. It is produced between October
and March, on a domestic level and therefore
production is limited. Rennet is added to
whole cow’s or sheep’s milk and the cheese is
then left to drain overnight on fern leaves in
wicker baskets. It is not matured and usually
served on small fern branches, picked far from
the roadside and carefully washed.
Info: Santa Sofia Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
67 - Forlì - Cesena & surroundings
Predappio & “La Solfara”
grotto cheese
Sogliano al Rubicone &
Fossa cheese
“Fossa” cheese has now become the
gastronomic symbol of Sogliano al Rubicone
and it is appreciated throughout Italy. This
unique product is obtained by fermenting
cheeses produced in the valleys of the
Rubicone and Marecchia in tufa ditches. The
origins of this practice are unknown, but
documents dating from the 15th century
clearly highlight that it already existed at
the time. According to tradition, the custom
of placing cheese in ditches came about
due to the need for local farmers to defend
themselves from the plundering Aragonese
troops that overran the countryside in
the 15th century. When they reopened
the ditches, the farmers realised that the
cheeses had acquired a new and extraordinary
flavour. Fossa cheese from Sogliano has
recently obtained PDO recognition. The
production areas cover the entire territory
of the provinces of Forlì-Cesena, Rimini,
Ravenna, Pesaro-Urbino, Ancona, Macerata
and Ascoli Piceno and part of the province of
Bologna, namely the municipalities of Borgo
Tossignano, Casalfiumanese, Castel San Pietro
Terme, Castel del Rio, Dozza, Fontanelice,
Imola, Loiano, Monghidoro, Monterenzio and
Pianoro. At the end of November - beginning
Worth seeing
CASA ARTUSI
Inaugurated in 2007 in honour of Pellegrino Artusi
(Forlimpopoli 1820 - Florence 1911), author of
the famous manual “La Scienza in Cucina e l’Arte
di Mangiar Bene” - Science in the Kitchen and the
Art of Eating Well, Casa Artusi is the first centre
of food and wine culture dedicated to domestic
Italian cuisine. Library, restaurant, cookery school,
wine cellar, museum and venue for events: this is
Casa Artusi, covering a surface of over 2,800 m
in the monumental complex of the Church of the
Servi in Forlimpopoli. It is a centre of gastronomic
culture that draws inspiration from the heritage of
Pellegrino Artusi to renew his teachings, diffuse
them and make them more contemporary.
Info: Casa Artusi - Tel. +39 0543 743138 - 749273
www.casartusi.it
of December a Fossa Cheese Fair is held in
Sogliano to coincide with the opening of the
ditches, which traditionally takes place on the
feast of St. Catherine.
Info: Sogliano al Rubicone Tourist Information
Office
[email protected]
Don’t miss the Fossa Cheese Museum at “Fossa
Pellegrini” farm.
Info: “Fossa Pellegrini” Fossa Cheese Museum
www.formaggiodifossa.it
69 - Forlì - Cesena & surroundings
BERTINORO
On the foothills between Forlì and Cesena stands the
ancient village of Bertinoro, known as the Balcony
of Romagna. Cobbled streets, historical buildings,
churches, houses and paths flank the remains of the
ancient city walls, at each turn offering charming
views. Bertinoro is famous for its “Hospitality
Festival” which is held the first weekend of September.
The celebration originates from the tradition of
hospitality, consolidated in the column with rings,
and over the years, other events have been added.
Today, celebrations include a night of shows and
historical re-enactments and an unusual ceremony
that takes place on Sunday, in the late morning, when
anyone who wishes to can be hosted by a family from
Bertinoro by choosing one of the envelopes hanging
on the column. The name of the village is also closely
linked to Albana; one of the most famous white wines
of Romagna.
Info: Bertinoro Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
Rimini & surroundings
SQUISITO!
Coriano
First weekend in May
NATIONAL TRUFFLE FESTIVAL
Sant’Agata Feltria
Sundays in October
To eat
•Extra-Virgin olive oil of the Hills of Romagna PDO
•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO
•White Bullock of the Central Apennines PGI
To drink
•Colli di Rimini DOC
•Sangiovese di Romagna and Trebbiano di Romagna DOC
71 - Rimini & surroundings
Events
The historical origins of the city date back
to the 6th century BC. A port towards the
East and crossroads of communication
routes from north Europe and the Italian
peninsula, it was where Etruscan,
Umbrian, Italic, Greek and Celtic
populations met. Under Sigismondo
Pandolfo Malatesta, a great patron and
connoisseur of arts, the city reached its
greatest splendour, boasting numerous
new buildings and works of art. It gained
the name of the capital of tourism, but is
now also queen of business and congress
tourism. The holiday capital of the
coast of Romagna, Rimini is the ideal
starting point for an itinerary to discover
the seafaring traditions of the region,
even with regards to its gastronomic
heritage. However, tourists shouldn’t
just look towards the sea; the inland
area of Rimini, which spills over into the
Montefeltro area in the Marche, reserves
equally interesting surprises in its
numerous enchanting villages. Squeezed
between the sea and the hills, agriculture
in the territory of Rimini focuses on vines
and olives that reach excellent quality
levels. In this area, country cuisine rules
and domestic customs and village fêtes
recall the strong flavours of central Italy.
Piadina, here in the thinnest version
found in Romagna, is not only served
with cold cuts but all kinds of food,
accompanied by Sangiovese red wine.
INFO:
Rimini Tourist Information Board
Tel. +39 0541 53399 - 56902
www.riminiturismo.it
www.turismo.provincia.rimini.it
Don’t miss
PIADINA FROM RIMINI
Piadina is a simple food that unites all of Romagna.
This unleavened bread, which in farmhouses was
traditionally cooked on hot stones, is a product that
has now become popular outside the region, even
though it is usually industrially produced. In Romagna
it is still homemade, maintaining its differences in
various zones, where it is called pieda, pida, pie or
pijda. The traditional recipe includes white flour, lard,
rock salt crushed in a mortar - better still of it is sweet
salt from Cervia - milk, bicarbonate and warm water,
kneaded into dough that is also used for the thinner
crescione or cassone. Piadina and crescione are ideal
accompaniments for wild or cultivated greens, cold
cuts and soft cheeses, such as “squacquerone”, but
are also ideal as desserts served with creams, jams or
honeys. In the Rimini area, piadina is larger, thinner
and puffier than in other areas.
Info: Consortium of Producers of Fresh Piadina of the
Province of Rimini - www.consorziopiada.it
Sant’Agata Feltria & white truffle
An extremely rare booklet dating from
the 16th century, written by Rimini-born
Malatesta Fiordiano, sang the praises of the
richest, most formidable and princely fish
soup. Numerous treatises had heated debates
about which fish to use and which to leave
out, whether oily fish should be used or not,
whether molluscs and shellfish have any right
to be included, whether to use tomato purée
or fresh tomatoes, wine or vinegar, pepper or
chilli pepper, whether a pinch of saffron helps
and whether the flame should be low or lively.
Besides this diatribe about which ingredients
are essential or optional and on cooking
methods and times, there’s only one secret to
good local fish soup and it isn’t really a secret
- the fish must be very fresh.
One of the capitals of this precious and
fragrant tuber is the enchanting Mediaeval
village of Sant’Agata Feltria, which every
year in October celebrates the National White
Truffle Fair. This is a unique opportunity to find
out more about this corner of Montefeltro and
its gastronomic delights such as mushrooms,
chestnuts, honey, officinal herbs, sheep’s milk
cheeses and mutton.
Info: Pro-loco Association
info@santagatainfiera.com
Info: www.turismo.provincia.rimini.it
Worth trying
EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
“Colline di Romagna PDO” extra-virgin olive oil, with
excellent characteristics of flavour and aroma, is not
as widely known and popular as its quality would
suggest. Now the main condiment of Mediterranean
cuisine, olive oil was traditionally considered a
“luxury” for the cold, tired and hungry world that
Romagna once represented, above all in the inland
area and in the hills. In fact, the popular cuisine of
Romagna mainly used (or abused) lard, a product
that was so energy-packed it was considered a sort
of “second coat for the winter”. Coriano, a village on
the hills near Rimini hosts an Olive and Autumnal
Products Fair every year in autumn.
Info: www.stradadeivinidirimini.i
73 - Rimini & surroundings
The Riviera of Rimini & brodetto
Saludecio & porchetta
“Porchetta” (or roast pork) is a small or
medium-sized piglet that is boned and filled
with chopped offal, to which a mixture of
pepper, garlic, salt, wild fennel and other
herbs has been added. The carcass is then
sewn up in “the shape of a pig” and threaded
onto a spit, before being slowly cooked in a
wood-fired oven for about 4 or 5 hours. Once
cooked, the pork rind on the back is crisp and
the meat is pink, soft and very tasty. Although
it is commonly considered a product typical
of central Italy (Marche, Umbria and Lazio),
porchetta is eaten widely in the area around
Rimini. Every year in May, Saludecio, a lovely
mediaeval town in the Conca Valley, hosts a
Porchetta Festival where visitors can taste
this dish. The hills near Saludecio, fall under
the territories of the “Colline di Romagna”
extra-virgin olive oil PDO, home to the largest
number of olive groves in the Province.
Info: Saludecio Tourist Information Office
Tel. +39 0541 869731
[email protected]
PECORINO AND FOSSA CHEESE
The hills near Rimini have always been home to flocks
of sheep kept for their milk which has always been
used to make fresh or mature Pecorino cheese. The
Pecorino cheeses can also be matured in tufa ditches:
this period lasts three months, from the end of August
until November, when the ditches are opened and a
cheese is removed with an inebriating fragrance and
extraordinary nutritional properties, flavour and
aroma. In November every year in Mondaino the
cheeses are “removed” from the ditches.
Info: www.stradadeivinidirimini.it
The maturing of cheeses in ditches has been certified
since the fifteenth century. One of the most famous
centres of production is the small village of Talamello
where Fossa cheese is also called “amber”. A
traditional event is the Ambra di Talamello Fair that is
held in the first half of November.
Info: Municipal Tourist Office
[email protected]
77 - Rimini & surroundings
A toast
SANGIOVESE AND REBOLA
The hills near Rimini are famous for wine production.
Of the red grapes grown here, Sangiovese di Romagna
DOC is a pillar on which local wine-growing and
production is founded. Of the territories that have
grown in recent years perhaps the most famous is
Coriano, which has even been called “Romagna’s
Montalcino”. Rebola stands out amongst the
autochthonous whites, called “Pignulèt” in local
dialect. In the past it was also used to make excellent
dessert wine, as important wine competitions of the
late 19th century confirm. It is a very interesting rustic
variety with medium productivity. What is obtained is
a wine with good proof that is fruity and velvety and
extremely pleasant. Other autochthonous wine grapes
are Trebbiano Romagnolo and Biancame.
Info: www.stradadeivinidirimini.it
Worth seeing
THE ROCCA MALATESTIANA
The Rocca Malatestiana in Montefiore is an imposing
symbol of the power of the Malatesta family
throughout the Conca Valley. Some say that, from
here, on a very clear day it is possible to see Mount
Velebit in Dalmatia, on the other side of the Adriatic.
Very little is known about the foundation of this
fortress, but it is certain that in 1337 Malatesta
Guastafamiglia had already made it an important
military and residential complex. In 1347, it hosted
Louis the Great, King of Hungary and his entire court.
Galeotto Malatesta Ungaro decided to add something
to the already imposing residence; the extraordinary
frescoes of battle scenes and portraits of ancient
heroes. In the fortress courtyard, there is a delightful
well dating from the end of the 14th century.
Info: Montefiore Conca Tourist Information Office
utribmontefi[email protected]
79 - Rimini & surroundings
THE SURGEON’S HOUSE
At the end of the 1980s in Rimini, in the heart of the
old town centre, an archaeological site of extraordinary
importance came to light with artefacts dating from
the Roman period through to the Middle Ages. It is the
“surgeon’s house”, so-called because of the profession
of its last owner, a doctor of Greek culture. Destroyed by
fire around the middle of the 3rd century, the domus has
revealed mosaics, plasterwork, furniture and furnishings
that offer an exceptional “photograph” of life in ancient
Rimini. The surgical and pharmaceutical instruments
found amid the ruins is the richest collection to have
ever come to light. The surgeon’s house has been open
to the public since 2007.
Info: Rimini Tourist Information Office
[email protected]
[email protected]
Events
calendar
Gutturnio Festival
Carpaneto Piacentino
Last week in April
A tribute to one of the most famous wines of the
hills near Piacenza. An opportunity for enthusiasts
to discover more about the history of Gutturnio and
the best accompaniments and naturally, to taste it.
Info: IAT Castell’Arquato
Via Dante, 27 - Castell`Arquato
Tel. +39 0523 803215 - Fax +39 0523 803215
[email protected]
Squisito!
Coriano
First weekend in May
Dedicated to those who love to eat well and those
who never tire of discovering new flavours or old
traditions. Top-rated chefs, experts and gourmets
come together to plot a contemporary map of
flavours. With workshops and tastings of excellent
products. To all intents and purposes a feast for
the palate!
Info: San Patrignano
via San Patrignano, 53 - Coriano
Tel. +39 0541 362111 - Fax +39 0541 362411
[email protected]
www.squisito.org
Wines and flavours on
the streets of Bertinoro and
Longiano
Bertinoro - mid-June
Longiano - mid-July
In these splendid “balconies” overlooking
Romagna, the protagonists of the Food and Wine
Route of the Hills of Forlì and Cesena festival are
typical local products and farmhouse produce.
Visitors can taste traditional local dishes and cakes
and quality regional wines.
Info: Food and Wine Route of the Hills of Forlì and
Cesena Association
Tel. +39 0543 469213
[email protected]
www.stradavinisaporifc.it
IAT Bertinoro
Tel. +39 0543 469213 - Fax +39 0543 444588
[email protected]
IAT Longiano
Tel. +39 0547 665484 - Fax +39 0547 665484
[email protected]
Slow Festival
Felina (Castelnuovo ne’ Monti)
Last weekend in July
This event takes place on the last weekend in July
with the appointments that have made it famous:
the “Slow City” route, the craft road, with the
best crafts produced in northern Italy, and areas
dedicated to exhibitions, the environment and
music, with over 20 shows.
Info: IAT Castelnuovo ne’ Monti
Via Roma, 15/B - Castelnuovo ne’ Monti
Tel. +39 0522 810430 - Fax +39 0522 812313
[email protected]
Rice days
Jolanda di Savoia
End of August
The event is linked to the promotion of Po Delta
rice PGI, of which the town of Jolanda di Savoia
is considered the capital, and hosts important
initiatives dedicated to both rice growers and those
who love this product. The four varieties of rice
grown in the Po Delta - Carnaroli, Baldo, Volano
and Arborio - reveal all their secrets to visitors.
Info: IAT Centro Unificato di Ferrara
Tel. +39 0532 299303 - Fax +39 0532 212266
[email protected]
Parma Ham Festival
In the municipalities of the Parma ham
production
zone
(Langhirano,
Tizzano,
Collecchio, Calestano, Lesignano Bagni, Neviano
Arduini, Montechiarugolo, Sala Baganza and
Felino).
From the end of August until 20th September
approx.
A great event that, for a whole month, brings to
life the Parma ham production zone with tastings,
seminars and great concerts, reaching its climax
with a fantastic festival in the city of Parma. The
initiative entitled “Open Windows” - a tried-andtested formula of guided visits accompanied by
local producers - will also take place during the
festival.
Info: IAT Torrechiara
Strada Castello, 10 - Torrechiara
Tel. +39 0521 355009 - Fax +39 0521 355821
[email protected]
Human Draughts
Castelvetro
2nd weekend in September
The event revokes the splendours of the Renaissance
with a game played on the square, marked out as
a draughtboard, by skilled starters with reallife draughts and “demons” in period costume.
It recalls the festival organized by the Marquises
of Rangone in 1564 to honour the poet Torquato
Tasso, who stayed in Castelvetro. During the two
evenings, visitors will see a procession of soldiers,
ladies and knights, archers and flag-wavers and the
event ends with a theatre and fire show.
Info: U.I.T. Terre di Castelli (Municipalities of
Vignola, Castelnuovo Rangone, Castelvetro di
Modena, Savignano s.P. and Spilamberto)
Via Selmi, 5 - Vignola
Tel. +39 059 764365 - Fax +39 059 764311
[email protected]
Pumpkin Festival
Reggiolo
Last weekend in September.
The event offers visitors the chance to taste
traditional pumpkin-based dishes from the lower
Mantua area and the area near Reggio, such as the
famous pumpkin-filled tortelli. As well as food and
wine, the programme of events includes songs and
various local folk performances.
Info: UIT Guastalla
Via Gonzaga, 37/A - Guastalla
Tel. +39 0522 219812 - Fax +39 0522 219708
[email protected]
Gastronomic autumn in
the Taro valley
In the municipalities of the upper Taro Valley
(Albareto, Bedonia, Berceto, Borgotaro,
Compiano, Tornolo).
In September, October and November
An autumn packed with events and village fêtes
in the upper Taro Valley to celebrate the “king” of
mushrooms - the Porcino or cep. Each weekend,
the restaurants, inns and holiday farms in the
valley offer top-quality menus. By filling in a
questionnaire, guests can choose the winner of the
“Golden Mushroom” prize, at the same time taking
part in a prize draw for a basket of typical local
produce.
Info: IAT Borgo Val di Taro
Piazza Manara, 7 - Borgo Val di Taro
Tel./Fax +39 0525 96796
[email protected],
Showcases, Motors
and Balsamic flavours
Spilamberto
1st weekend in October
The event starts Friday, with food-themed
initiatives organized by AIAB E.R. and OVERSEAS
and the screening of theme films. On Saturday,
grape must is boiled outdoors by the masters
of the Balsamic Vinegar Guild, with a tasting
of traditional products, shows and animation.
Activities at Flavour Museums, educational farms
and production consortiums and a vintage car and
motorbike rally on Sunday.
Info: IAT “Terre di Castelli”
c/o Traditional Balsamic Vinegar Museum
Via Roncati, 28 - Spilamberto
Tel. +39 059 78 12 70 - Fax +39 059 78 12 86
[email protected]
main square in Savigno.
Flavour weekends in
Bologna
Info: IAT Zola Predosa
Villa Garagnani, Via Masini, 11 - Zola Predosa
Tel. +39 051 752472 - Fax +39 051 752472
[email protected]
Bologna
Weekends in October
Events to promote and taste local food and wine
products in the historical city centre. The calendar
of events includes:
“Lo sfoglino d’oro” - a competition between
professional pasta makers who have won various
national and international competitions during the
year.
“Mortadella please”, an international mortadella
festival.
National Truffle Festival
Sant’Agata Feltria
Sundays in October
A great exhibition that attracts numerous
connoisseurs of these delicious, fragrant white
truffles. Alongside the famous tuber, there are also
mushrooms, chestnuts, honey and local crafts. An
opportunity to try some of the most sophisticated
specialities prepared using truffles and mushrooms.
Info: IAT Bologna
Tel. +39 051 239660 - 6472113 - 251947
Fax +39 051 6472253
touristoffi[email protected]
Info: Proloco Sant’Agata Feltria
Tel +39 0541 848022
info@santagatainfiera.com
Eel Festival
Autumn in Cesenatico
Fish Celebrates
Comacchio
First two weekends in October
A traditional appointment that offers the
opportunity to try delicious dishes prepared, using
eel and freshwater and saltwater fish, by the sailors
of Comacchio at the busy food stands. The streets,
bridges and canals of the village come to life
with craft markets, typical products and themed
scenery.
Info: IAT Comacchio
Tel. +39 0533 314154 - Fax +39 0533 319278
[email protected]
Tartufesta in the Apennines
of Bologna
Municipalities in the Apennines of Bologna
Weekends in October and November
Every weekend in October and November, 13
municipalities in the Apennines near Bologna offer
a packed programme of gastronomic and cultural
events to promote the precious white truffle, which
grows locally. The calendar of events concludes with
the traditional “National White Truffle Festival”
that gives life to the national truffle market in the
Cesenatico
Late October - early November
A weekend celebrating fish with an opportunity
to try traditional recipes, fried fish served in retro
brown paper and a fun market with stands selling
various products. An event that recalls the sea and
gently envelopes the charming, old fishing village.
Info: IAT Cesenatico
Tel. +39 0547 673287 Fax +39 0547 79404
[email protected]
Baccanale
Imola
First three weekends in November
A famous cultural and gastronomic event promoted
by the Municipality of Imola that each year focuses
on various aspects of the theme of food - culture,
history, local traditions, flavours, the promotion
of typical products and the relationship between
food and health. A packed programme that skilfully
combines entertainment, food and wine culture,
meetings, tastings, cookery lessons, exhibitions,
guided visits and shows.
Info: IAT Imola
Galleria del Centro Cittadino
Via Emilia, 135 - Imola
Tel. +39 0542 602207 - Fax +39 0542 602141
[email protected]
November Porc ….
Let’s hope it’s foggy!
Sissa, Polesine Parmense, Zibello, Roccabianca
Every weekend in November
An itinerant food event held every weekend in
November in the municipalities of Sissa, Polesine
Parmense, Zibello and Roccabianca. During
these events, visitors will be able to savour the
delights of the area, buy local produce and taste,
free of charge, maxi-reproductions of the 4 most
traditional cold cuts of the lower Parma area Mariola, Strolghino, Prete and Cicciolata.
Info: “Strada del Culatello di Zibello” Association
Tel. +39 0524 939081
[email protected]
www.novemberporc.com/.it
A Bit of Flavour Un Po’ di Gusto
Lower Piacenza area
November
Amid ancient traditions and genuine flavours, for
the entire month of November the best restaurants
and holiday farms in the area offer special menus
based on local flavours.
Info: IAT Piacenza
Piazza Cavalli - Piacenza
Tel. +39 0523 329324 Fax +39 0523 306727
[email protected]
Enologica and Exhibition
of Typical products of
Romagna
Faenza, provincial exhibition centre
3rd weekend in November
Exhibition and sale of select local wines and spirits
and typical products of Romagna. With a number of
workshops, tastings and the chance to meet chefs
and sommeliers.
Info: IAT Faenza
Voltone della Molinella 2 - Faenza
Tel./Fax +39 0546 25231
[email protected]
4 Festivals for 3 Hills:
PORK DELICACIES,
VOLPINA PEAR AND MATURE CHEESE FESTIVAL,
TRUFFLE FESTIVAL,
OLIVE TREE AND OLIVE OIL FESTIVAL
Brisighella, old town centre
Sundays in November
One hill comes to life each Sunday in November
with festivals dedicated respectively to products
prepared using pork meat, the rediscovery of
Volpina pears, served with mature cheese, precious
truffles, used to prepare traditional dishes, and
olive trees and olive oil.
Info: UIT Brisighella
P.tta Porta Gabolo - Brisighella
Tel./Fax +39 0546 81166
[email protected]