A city that never - Incredible India

Destination
Urban Destination: Mumbai
A city that never
sleeps
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Destination
Maharashtra
New York, London, Hong Kong & Shanghai. These are the synonyms
used to describe Mumbai, which is not only India’s economic, financial
and film capital, but also the most cosmopolitan, versatile and dynamic
city. Here are some suggestions on how to spend a day or two in the
city.
Ranvir Nayar
Mumbai
L
ike
many
other
large
metropolises around the world,
Mumbai is many different things
to many people. For the millions
who have come here over the
past century, it is their new home and the
place that gives them their livelihood. For
a star-struck visitor, eagerly looking for
either a break in the largest film industry
in the world or just getting a glimpse of
their favourite silver screen personality.
For a visitor from a village, it is a new
world wonder with its glittering glass and
steel towers as well as its fast roads, and
of course not to forget its beaches and
islands.
Mumbai is a group of seven islands,
stretching north to south,and has
been inhabited for several centuries. It,
however, grew in importance in the 15th
century when the Portuguese colonised
it. In 1662, the Portuguese gifted it to
the British as part of the royal dowry.
The boom of Bombay began in the
last two decades of the 17th century
with the construction of a new port as
well as several roads and the arrival
of shipbuilding as an industry. It also
gained in importance as a trading port,
with many Gujarati, Parsi and Marwari
businessmen shifting here to set up
operations in diverse domains such
as finance, jewellery etc. By mid-19th
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus is
modelled on the lines of St Pancras
Station in London
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century, the city became a textile industry
hub and scores of textile factories began
production here.
The golden period of Mumbai, at
least architecturally, was also during
the same time as most of the GothicVictorian buildings currently found in
south Mumbai were constructed during
this time. Though many have become
dilapidated over the last 170 years,
several have been restored to their former
glory. A walk down the lanes and bylanes of the Fort is a pleasant experience,
especially in the evenings when the
buildings are lit up. An interesting array
of Gothic architecture buildings include
the Thomas Cook, Bombay House
(the headquarters of the Tata group),
Horniman Circle, the Mumbai university,
the High Court, David Sassoon library,
the Regal cinema and of the main railway
station - Mumbai Victoria Terminus,
known as Chhattrapati Shivaji Terminus.
Other parts of Mumbai with a rich
collection of these heritage buildings
is the Ballard Estate, shouldering the
Mumbai port and docks, as well as
Colaba, which has a number of churches
and Parsi Fire Temples dating back to
nearly 200 years.
No dearth of religious places
Having emerged as a major business
centre nearly three centuries ago,
Mumbai has managed to attract a
wide mix of people from all over the
country. This is definitely one of the
most cosmopolitan and well-mixed
population, not just in India or Asia, but
indeed in the world. It has all the faiths
and regions represented here - Hindus,
Muslims, Christians, Sikhs, Jews,
Parsis and definitely people from all the
states of the country. The city is home
David Sassoon Library houses one of the oldest
living library and reading rooms in use
Kala Ghoda Fort in South
Mumbai
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Though a megapolis that
borders on workaholism,
Mumbai sure loves its
festivals. With its diverse
population, the city
celebrates perhaps
all the festivals of the
world, but it is certainly
worth a visit for some –
Gokul Ashtami, Ganesh
Chaturthi, Navratri and Id
to several heritage properties that also
serve as a place of worship, including
the Parsi Fire Temples, Synagogues,
temples and mosques. Most of the Fire
Temples are located in the southern part
of Mumbai, where the Parsi community,
numbering over 100,000 has lived. The
most beautiful and oldest fire temples
can be seen in Colaba, Fort and in the
area around Mumbai central.
Though the Jewish population of
Mumbai is much lesser, there are a few
synagogues nonetheless, with the oldest
ones located in south and south-central
Mumbai, not too far from the Parsi
temples. The oldest synagogue, Gate of
Mercy, was built in 1796 and since then
nearly a dozen synagogues and Jewish
religious sites have come up.
With Muslims making up nearly 16 per
cent of its 16 million people in Mumbai,
the city is also home to some very
famous mosques which attract not just
the devotees but also tourists from all
over the country and indeed the world.
One such place is the Haji Ali Dargah,
a beautiful mosque which stands on a
large rock about 500 m from the coast.
Thousands of devotees visit it everyday
as it is supposed to fulfill all wishes of the
faithful. Another reputed mosque is the
Makhdoom Ali Mahimi in Mahim, which
was built in the early 15th century. There
is a large concentration of Muslims in
southern Mumbai, around Mohammad
Ali Road, extending all the way upto Haji
Ali and Mumbai Central station. This
area is also home to several other very
famous mosques like the Minara Masjid,
Jama Masjid, Moghul Masjid etc.
Mount Mary Church is one of the ancient basilicas
located in Mumbai, dedicated to ‘Virgin Mary’
Mumbai also has several very
famous and ancient churches, with the
likes of the Mahim Church and Mount
Mary Church in Bandra, which gather
thousands of devotees each year, but are
specially worth visiting for the Christmas
celebrations.
Though Mumbai has a temple
perhaps in every street, the most
important ones are the Mahalakshmi
temple, the Mumbadevi temple and
Siddhivinayak temple. The Mahalakshmi
temple is located a stone’s throw away
Mumbai’s iconic Sufi shrine Haji Ali Dargah
from the Haji Ali mosque. Built in 1831, it
is home to three deities – Mahalakshmi,
the goddess of wealth, Mahasaraswathi,
the goddess of knowledge and Mahakali,
goddess of valour. The Mahalakshmi
temple is definitely worth a visit during the
Navratri festival, which falls in October
and when it is thronged by thousands of
devotees.The Mumbadevi temple in the
southern part of the city is believed to
date back to the 15th century. It is home
to Mumba Devi or the deity of the fishing
communities, the original inhabitants of
Mumbai.
But perhaps the most famous of all
Mumbai temples is the Siddhivinayak
temple in the Dadar area of the northcentral Mumbai. Dedicated to Lord
Ganesh, by far the most loved deity
of Mumbai and indeed western India,
Siddhivinayak has become a regular
spot for spotting all kinds of celebrities
– leading film personalities, politicians,
sportspersons et al, who often walk 10-15
km from their homes as a special offering
to the God of all good beginnings.
Festivals
Though a megapolis that borders
on workaholism, Mumbai sure loves its
festivals. With its diverse population, the
city celebrates perhaps all the festivals
of the world, but it is certainly worth a
visit for some – Gokul Ashtami, Ganesh
Chaturthi, Navratri and Id.
Gokul Ashtami, or the birth of Lord
Krishna, is very popular with the Marathi
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Ganesh Chaturthi is one of
the biggest celebrations in
Mumbai
population of Mumbai and its key event
is the human pyramid, often as high as
20 m, which tries to catch a coconut
placed in a pot. The festival, which often
comes in August is keenly celebrated
in the localities spreading from the
southern edge to the northern fringes,
one can enjoy the sights of young boys
climbing on top of each other to reach
dizzying heights and get the prize catch.
Twenty metres is perhaps also the
height of an average large Ganesh idol
but come September and hundreds of
thousands of Ganesh idols of varying
sizes, colours and themes dominate
the city and its life for 10 days as the
devotees celebrate the Ganesh Chaturthi,
welcoming the Lord who removes all
hurdles and ensures success for its
followers. For a city that never sleeps,
Mumbai becomes even more dynamic,
vibrant and alive during this festival as
millions of devotees queue up all night
long to get a glimpse of the Lord and also
to participate in the prayers, the cultural
programmes and the fun and frolic that
accompanies the festival. Though initially
a festival mainly celebrated by Marathi
and Gujarati populace, Ganesh Chaturthi
now has a city-wide appeal.
Just days after bidding adieu to
Ganesh, Mumbai gets again into a festive
mood. This time to dance all night to
the beats of a mix of folk, modern and
even spiritual songs – the Navratri or
the Festival of Nine Nights. Hundreds of
grounds around the city are prepped up
for the event, with lighting and a great
music system and then it seems the
entire city gyrates to the music. This is a
festival especially appealing to the youth
as it gives the young girls and boys a
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unique opportunity spend long hours in
the night together, dancing and hopping
from one celebration to another. No
wonder then that a lot of engagements
and even weddings follow these 10
nights of fun!
Another event which brings the
city’s nightlife to a high is the monthlong Ramadan or fasting done by the
Muslims, which concludes with the Id.
The Muslim pockets of the city, which
infact are sprinkled all over, take on a
new avatar during this festival as over
1.6 million Muslims gather on the streets
of the city to break their fast every
evening and spend time with friends and
family, while also doing their shopping.
Mohammad Ali Road is certainly worth a
visit during this period as shops, homes
and mosques are covered with brilliant
lighting and hundreds of thousands of
people mill around in the lanes and bylanes of this large residential area. The
crescendo rises upto the festival of Id,
when Muslims dress in their best clothes
and celebrate it with lavish meals, gifts
et al.
Cuisine
Staying on the Mohammad Ali Road
and other Muslim quarters of the city, the
rich mix of peoples and their diversities
is every bit replicated in the restaurants.
Trishna - the famous restaurant of Mumbai
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Nariman point is an area which is situated on
land reclaimed from the sea
If you want to taste rare and exotic
Mughal food, head to these streets. Delhi
Darbar, Shalimar and Lucky’s are some
of the places where you can get hold of
delicious and authentic fare. For those
looking for barbecued chicken or lamb
and the famous kebabs, Bade Miyan in
Colaba is specially recommended.
Mumbai is also one of the rare cities
offering a mix of Irani and Persian
restaurants, with the traditional dishes
that are unique as many of them preserve
the foods that would have been found in
the pre-Islamic Iran or Persia. Mutton
(lamb) dhansak and salliboti are some
of the dishes to be tasted. The best Irani
and Parsi restaurants are in the southern
parts of the city. Brittania in Ballard
Estate, Jimmy Boy and Excelsior in the
Fort and Kyani’s in Kalbadevi are some
definitely worth a visit.
The Gujarati cuisine is not too far
removed from Parsi, even though Gujarati
is pure vegetarian and Parsi is largely
meat-driven. Mumbai also offers some
great places to taste authentic Gujarati
and even Jain food, with the emphasis
being on the ‘thalis’, a mix of at least half
a dozen vegetables, a similar number of
starters and of course the desserts. If
you have a big appetite, head to Thaker
Bhojnalaya in Kalbadevi or Chetana at
Kala Ghoda, just in front of the Jehangir
Art Gallery.
But if you are not a vegetarian, you
need to walk less than a minute to come
to Trishna, which, along with a slightly
less upmarket Mahesh, is one of the
best restaurants to sample fish and sea
food. Being a coastal city with a large
fishing population, Mumbai has several
fish delicacies like pomfret fry or prawns
People swarm to Mumbai’s Juhu
Beach for a bit of cool relief
Mumbai’s cuisine
would be incomplete
without its street
food. Being a working
person’s city, it has
ready and often very
delicious and nutritious
street food available
everywhere
koliwada or garlic-butter crab, which
are definitely mouth-watering. Both the
restaurants are a hit with advertising and
media professionals.
But Mumbai’s cuisine would be
incomplete without its street food. Being
a working person’s city, it has ready and
often very delicious and nutritious street
food available everywhere. Ranging from
vegetable and cheese grilled sandwiches
and pav-bhaji (a mix of vegetables like
potatoes, tomatoes, peas cooked in
butter and served with buttered buns)
to wada-pav (the original and Indian
burger), these are available almost
round the clock and in most parts of
the city. In fact, there are some streets
like the ‘khaugalli’ which have dozens of
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Marine Drive is one of the most beautifully laid boulevards in southern part of Mumbai
street food outlets and nothing else and
thronged by hundreds of late-nighters!
Nightlife
For the night-owls, Mumbai has a
large choice again. You could simply
stroll along the promenade at the
Queen’s Necklace or Marine Drive, a
3 km curvaceous road stretching from
Nariman Point to the Chowpatty beach.
You could also be on the beaches –
Chowpatty or Juhu in the north.
But if the cool sea breeze weaving
through your hair, while the sea water
laps your feet on a full-moon night, is
not your idea of a night-life, then head
to the myriad discos that attract not just
the brash young children of the city’s
many millionaires but also Bollywood
personalities and tourists. Most of the
action is in the stretch from Bandra to
Andheri in the western suburbs and in
some you are bound to run into a film
personality that you have been dying to
meet!
Shopping
Though the city has now got over two
dozen malls, offering a wide range of
products, the best shopping in Mumbai
could perhaps be done in three areas –
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Colaba causeway in south, neighbouring
Fashion Street and Linking road in
Bandra. Stroll through the streets and
pick up anything you want – clothes,
accessories, handicrafts. You can
touch and feel and of course haggle! If
you are looking to faux antiques (and
sometimes genuine one as well) go to
Chor Bazaar near Mohammad Ali Road
where you will get grandfather clocks,
ancient gramophones and anything else
supposedly from the 19th century. Better
be good at not only negotiating but also
picking the vrai from the faux!
On the outskirts
For those looking for a different kind
of Mumbai, head to the outskirts. You
‘Gateway of India’ is a very popular
memorial building in Mumbai
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can discover or re-discover the Buddhist
and Hindu rock carving and sculptures
in the caves, dating from over 1300
years and you can either take an hourlong ride out in the sea to the Elephanta
Island with eponymous caves that have
beautiful carvings and sculpture of Shiva
and other Hindu deities. The hour-long
ferry ride, from the Gateway of India – an
arch built over 100 years ago to welcome
Prince George V and just opposite the
famous Taj Mahal hotel -- is an added
attraction!
Or if you get sea-sick, head to the
north-western fringe of the city in the
midst of the dense forests of National
Park, you will hit the Kanheri caves, which
date back to nearly 2300 years ago and
are believed to be the largest collection
of caves carved in a single hill. The caves
have a variety of statues representing the
life and times of Buddha and believed to
have been inhabited at various periods
over the last two millennia.
The Taj Mahal Palace hotel
Bollywood
No description of Mumbai is complete
without its rich, though much more recent
film history. Not too far from Kanheri, in
the same forest is the Film City, where you
can watch many of the 1200-odd films
that are made in India each year. Song
and dance or a car chase or one of those
scenes where the hero battles a gang of
20 bad-men! Take your pick and you will
find here. The more serious devotees of
these silver-screen gods and goddesses
can also see the abodes of their deities in
the suburbs from Bandra to Versova. And
if you are lucky and blessed, the God(ess)
may actually step on the terrace to blow
you some air kisses! What better way to
end your visit to a city that is best known
for its silver screen. n
Bandra–Worli Sea Link is a cable-stayed bridge that links Bandra in the Western
Suburbs of Mumbai with Worli in South Mumbai
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