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Villa Le Barone
A Hotel in Chianti: A story of change
“ When we fix our gaze on the distant horizon, so contained and
tranquil, the vexations and discord of the present are forgotten and
when the sweetness of the reawakening earth takes us by surpise each
year all discouragement melts away and we are indundated by the
love which binds us to the land.”
A hotel in Chianti: a story of change
Marie-Blanche Viviani Della Robbia, A Farm in Chianti
Life is Good in Chianti
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Foreword
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Introduction
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A Farm in Chianti: A Brief History
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Vision and Change: From Farm to Hotel
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A Charming Hotel in Chianti: The Early Years
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Olive Groves for 26 Bathrooms: Expansion, Restoration and Decor
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Tuscan Hospitality: The Staff
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Food, Wine and Celebration: Dining at the Villa
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A Chianti Garden: Orchards, Roses and Vistas
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A Symphony of Thanks: Guests, Friends and Family
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New Horizons: The Future
A 30 year Chronology
Life is good in Chianti, life is good in Panzano...
“Le Barone”, a feminine name which has always evoked for me two women, two noblewomen
Bianca Maria Viviani Della Robbia, whom I have known trough the pages of her “ Farm in Chianti”,
a book that my father, Tullio, held as a treasure, and that I used to read with passion, like a fable, but
where however I could find familiar places and people as well as relatives. Also a book where I could find
and admire the will and entrepreneurship of a lady who loved her land, and who, in difficult years, was
strongly fighting to make it more productive and modern.
Her daughter Franca, Duchess di Grazzano Visconti I have known personally.
We Tuscans have always given priority to quarters of beef over quarters of nobility, but have always had
the greatest respect for courage and strength of character. And Duchess Franca was a fascinating woman
of great character, whom I have admired. I was very fond of her.
When, thirty years ago, Franca decided to transform Villa Le Barone into an elegant residence, raising
curiosity and interest, I felt how similar she was to her mother : entrepreneurship, focus on long term
and love for this town.
A hotel in Chianti: a story of change
ISBN-10: xx-xx-yy-ww
ISBN-13: ww-xx-yy-ww
1st Edition: May 2006
All rights reserved.
No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any
information storage and retrieval system, without
permission in writing from the publisher.
www.villalebarone.it
She has created a jewel, a new reason for prestige in Panzano. She has been an encouragement for other
tourism businesses and other successful local development initiatives.
Life is good in Chianti. Life is good in Panzano – perhaps not the most beautiful town in the world
– but a great beautiful land blessed by God, where a friendly smile is always to be found, where laborious people have the taste, the tradition of welcoming guests, the sense of hospitality and the happiness
to celebrate.
Here is the past and future, seasoned with good food and good wine. And this is the hopeful future for
all of us.
Dario Cecchini
The Butcher of Panzano.
Foreword
I
taly is synonymous with both tradition and innovation. Its long and varied history is a testament to inherited
values and a continuous “rinascimento” to classical beauty and current fashion. Chianti, a small region in
the Italian province of Tuscany, is a parallel microcosm of its host nation. “A Hotel in Chianti” is the story and
celebration of one historical Tuscan farm’s transformation into its current status as one of Chianti’s leading
boutique hotels. It is about history, love, vision and change.
For centuries the farm at Villa Le Barone steadily operated under the supervision of a “fattore” employing over
200 local workers to tend a variety of crops. This steady agricultural pattern remained unchanged until the early
20th century. With the quickening pace of modernization linked to technological change and the increasing
pressure for productivity the farms survival was threatened. Marie-Blanche Viviani Della Robbia recognized the
need to adapt her family estate Villa Le Barone to more up to date methods. She shares her story of the property’s
slow transformation into a modern wine estate in her book “A Farm in Chianti.”
The Second World War again brought sociological and technological changes to Italy strongly hitting agriculture.
To survive in this time of global challenge there were very few choices. One could have chosen to concentrate
on wine or olive oil production but Marie-Blanche’s daughter, Duchess Franca Visconti decided to explore
the new and emerging tourism trends happening in the Chianti region. In 1971 she bravely considered
another transformation for the Villa - to turn it into a small Inn – making her one of the first Chianti tourism
entrepreneurs. Maintaining its original authenticity and charm she opened her family country home in 1976 to
paying guest and her vision of “A hotel in Chianti” became a reality.
Today Villa Le Barone has become one of Chianti’s leading charm hotels, faithful to its original family values of
hospitality, refinement and “buon gusto”.
Introduction
I
In spite of agricultural hardships, Chianti remained
beautiful, the hilly landscape retained its serene stance,
the vineyards and olive groves appeared like the lines of a
lovely book written over the centuries. Marie-Blanche’s
daughter and new owner of Le Barone, Franca Duchess
Visconti, was also a woman of great character, preferring
action over ‘status quo’ and lived her mother’s credo and
wasted little time adapting to the changing times of the
Chianti region. Therefore in the early seventies the old
villa and adjoining farm buildings underwent a massive cleaning, refurbishing and painting. Franca would
excitedly share with us the progress of transforming Le
Barone from a working farm into a private guest house.
Her enthusiasm made it evident that the fun part of the
ordeal greatly surpassed the toil of hard work. When the
first six rooms were made available to Guests in June
1976, the spirit of Le Barone was set: a stylish old family
house open to friends. Good humor and friendliness
often made up for the lack of formal training of the
former farm people turned into staff, gardeners, cooks
and maids and the over seeing manageress Rina Buonamicci’s smile and calm efficiency took care of the rest.
often remember as a child visiting my cousin the
elderly Marchesa Marie-Blanche Viviani Della Robbia (née Larderel) at her Chianti farm Villa Le Barone.
Together we would stroll through the gardens, overlooking the lovely rolling countryside and this not very
tall, wrinkled lady with a shrill voice, a funny hat and
sparkling intelligent eyes, would regard me seriously
and humor my budding interest in agriculture (we still
believed in it in the fifties!) by showing me the latest
improvements in the farming techniques she was using
there. A new all metal plough on wheels, a clanging,
smoking tractor that the white Chianina oxen regarded with disbelief and, wonder of wonders, a small but
deep artificial lake that would allow plentiful summer
watering for the promising bountiful new crops! With
eyes open wide I was mesmerized by the wonder of this
exciting future. Marie-Blanche, a fan of Modernity with
a capital M, would nod and remind me one should
always adapt to new times and never regret the past.
Sadly, the sixties and seventies wrote a different story
and agricultural revenues in Tuscany, as for the rest of
Italy and Europe, dwindled away; farmers abandoned
farmhouses to go to the city, oxen were sold and ploughs rusted away.
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The child that listened in awe to Marie-Blanche is now married to the
lovely Jacqueline and blessed with a wonderful family - our son Folco
and our daughter Blanche. During all the years we kept in close touch
with Franca and Le Barone. Upon the sad passing of this remarkable
woman Jacqueline and I became the proud new custodians of this lovely place with the aim to continue the tradition of sharing the house
and its Tuscan hospitality with our guests until the next generation is
ready to take over. We are pleased to share that the Villa’s future rests
secure for many years as our fourth grandchild (a girl to our daughter),
is going to be christened this year on the 30th anniversary of Villa Le
Barone.
“A Hotel in Chianti” is the continuation of Marie-Blanche Viviani
Della Robbia’s ‘Farm in Chianti’. This book serves as both celebration
and tribute to the evolving story of a land and place, despite numerous
transformations, remains we hope a Chianti home. If what appears to
be love transpires from these pages then we will have accomplished our
objective.
Count Corso Aloisi de Larderel
Count and Countess Aloisi de Larderel in front of Villa Le Barone
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A Farm in Chianti: A Brief History
The vine covered old stables and fattoria building today houses guest rooms
with private terraces and is called the “Garden House”.
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A Farm in Chianti: A Brief History
A Farm in Chianti: A Brief History
T
turned into a farm house and then later converted into
a formal residence for the famous family. The scattering
of outer buildings on the estate were used to house farm
workers and serve as stables, presses and barns.
he passion for villeggiatura – an escape from the
city to a villa in the hills – is deeply embedded in
the history and culture of Tuscany. Over the centuries
the ancient Tuscan towns of Florence, Arezzo and Siena
flourished into important cultural and political centers
attracting and spawning a patrician class of nobles. Strategically skirting these prospering cities lay the pastoral
and agricultural region of Chianti. The slower more
tranquil pace of its countryside attracted nobles to build estates away from the noisy, cluttered cities and the
number of villas and castles became particularly populous in these verdant hills. These countryside retreats of
the ruling classes also served as important agricultural
enterprises or fattorie, - farms whose produce supported the households in nearby cities with foundational
agricultural products such as olive oil, wine, produce
and meat.
The Villa maintained its traditional agricultural rhythm
until the early 20th century when it was inherited by
Marie-Blanche widow of the late Marquis Viviani Della
Robbia. A modern and intelligent woman, Marie-Blanche was actively involved in cultural and literary circles
of Florence. She was a respected and celebrated author
and a founding member of a cultural salon attracting a
wide range of participants to address current social and
cultural issues. Through these circles she became aware
and interested in the more modern methods of agriculture and determined to invest these new ideas into
the operations of her farm. She restored the house, re
planted gardens and sought to teach the traditionnally
stubborn peasants new ways to improve the land. She
converted the property into a wine estate and became
wholeheartedly devoted for many years to overseeing
the challenges of running a farm in the then still rural
hills of Chianti - something considered very unusual for
a woman of her status and time.
In the late Renaissance the descendents of the famous
Florentine ceramicist Luca Della Robbia claimed Villa
Le Barone as their Chianti farm and summer retreat.
Located only 30 kilometers from Florence and perched
on a commanding hilltop the Villa, once a seat of a
Baronetcy (hence its name), was originally built in the
middle ages as a watch tower. By the late 14th century
the tower was torn down and the main building was
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Europe in the early 20th century was sadly witness to
two World Wars and though the Chianti stumbled relatively undiscovered and unscathed through the first
one, in the latter it experienced the invasion of soldier
encampments interrupting the centuries old farming
patterns. But the post war modern world had far reaching global effects and the rural Chianti was unable
to regain its previous agricultural momentum and the
pastoral existence of Tuscany was changed forever. Long
time farms and contadini homes were abandoned as
laborers were attracted instead to pursue more lucrative opportunities in the fast growing city centers. Finding and retaining reliable farm managers or workers
was difficult and maintaining the Villa Barone as an
operational farm became an increasing challenge for
Marie-Blanche and many other Chianti land owners.
Fattoria Le Barone persevered despite the hardships. In
her celebrated book “A Farm in Chianti” Marie-Blanche
shares her many challenges and mourns the deteriorating state of the Chianti farms, angry and disappointed at the changing loyalty of the younger generation
of contadini. She remained, until her death, confident
and optimistic that the inherent love of the land would
ensure its future.
“But how did it come about that i should have
the brilliant idea that i could and i should do
something more for my fields than just seek poetry
and colour in them
Marie-Blanche image in the Fields of Fattoria Le Barone
The poetic and descriptive accounts of enlightening the often
stubborn and superstitious farming peasants of Villa le Barone to modern agricultural methods are eternalized in MarieBlanche Della Robbia’s book “A Farm in Chianti”
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Lovingly passed through generations of family members the Villa sustained its rhythmic
agricultural patterns tended by its loyal peasant workers, the “contadini”.
“ Under the modern methods of the determined Marie- Blanche Della Robbia
the farm produced olive oil and a Classic Chianti red wine.”
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The entrance gates to Villa Le Barone at the
beginning of the 20th century before the mature
trees and hedges of today screen it from the small
country road.
“ The entrance to Villa Le Barone today.”
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Vision and Change: From Farm to Hotel
Harvested grapes hanging in the upstairs of today’s “garden house” which once served as a stable
and barn area with a view of San Leolino in the background
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Vision and Change: From Farm to Hotel
Vision and Change: From Farm to a Hotel
T
he Marchesa Marie-Blanche Viviani Della Robbia
had only one child, a daughter Franca. MarieBlanche was very involved in her only child’s education and ensured her studies were global and cultural.
They traveled together but for most of her youth Franca
was raised in the Chianti countryside at Villa Le Barone instead of their central Florence home. Franca was
regarded as one of Florence’s great beauties and loved
the excitement and activity of being in the city. In her
youth she regarded Villa Le Barone as remote country
living and disliked the long and cumbersome commute
on the then unpaved long and windy roads. In her early
twenties she married Duke Guido di Grazzano Visconti
living a privileged and active life in the city center. Unfortunately Guido died early in their marriage during
World War II in Africa and Franca never remarried.
She traveled extensively with her primary residence in
Florence. She visited Le Barone rarely, mostly to visit
her mother, and chose instead for her country retreat
her closer property in Ugolino. Upon the passing of her
mother in 1971, Franca, at the respectable age of 64,
took over the Fattoria Le Barone property. Despite her
appreciation for the Barone property and respect for her
mother’s determination to maintain it as a productive
farm, the inheritance proved at first an onerous responsibility to the Duchess. The dearth of experienced and
qualified laborers to work the land and the poor economic returns on an agricultural dependence underlined
the limited viability to sustain itself as a working farm.
What was she to do with this family legacy of various
stone farm buildings, an old manor house and acreage
of olive groves and grape vines?
A student of her remarkable mother, she understood the
importance of adaptability and evolution. She looked
to the modern transformations happening around her
in the Chianti. In the 1970’s Chianti was undergoing
its very genesis as a Tourist attraction. After the war the
abandoned Chianti farmhouses were discovered primarily by the pastoral loving English who began to buy
the old buildings and restore them. The rolling hills became peppered with the reclaimed cotta colored stone
buildings again heralding the seductive beauty of the
Chianti. As demand grew numerous Italian families opted to sell their farms, villas and castles to this growing
demographic of foreigners wishing to claim an idyllic
Tuscan retreat for themselves.
For many landowners and farmers it was a welcome opportunity to address the financial challenge of maintaining agricultural properties in the countryside. Franca
was briefly tempted herself to consider a generous offer
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However her determination and high expectations
were the engines necessary to move the new enterprise
forward. The rooms were updated and decorated with
personal antiques and interesting trinkets the Duchess
personally chose while on her own travels abroad. To
assist in the operation and provision of board for the
newly opened hotel she engaged many of the loyal contadini who had worked on the farm, encouraging them
in their new trades as gardeners, waiters, porters, cooks
and concierge. A celebratory evening to mark the Inn’s
official opening was organized on June 30th 1976 for
the Duchess, her many friends and international contacts. The hotel’s charm and simple, warm Tuscan hospitality earned it many accolades and the news of its
existence quickly spread.
but the long history of entrepreneurial genes from her
grand mother’s Larderel family, must have been strong
in her blood. At the age of 65 she chose a more courageous and creative path deciding instead to turn the
long time family farm into a small charming hotel for
the increasing stream of visitors to the Chianti. Her
friends and advisors challenged the boldness and viability of such a vanguard decision. What did she know of
such a business - it was something new and untested for
the area? Would it be successful? And how would she, a
single woman of advanced age manage it? But Franca,
like her mother, was a strong and determined woman
and moved her vision forcibly ahead. Thus began the
third life cycle of Villa Le Barone as a charming inn.
For a period of over twenty five years Franca commanded the operation and growth of the Villa Le Barone
until her death in 2003. Today Corso Aloisi de Larderel,
Franca’s cousin and his wife Jacqueline are the current
custodians and spend much of their time now at Villa
le Barone. Dedicated to ensuring the integrity of the
original vision they oversee the continual adaptation of
necessary changes and upgrades demanded by today’s
ever evolving modern world.
A well traveled woman of patrician class Franca enthusiastically engaged in the project. The small hotel
of only 6 rooms in the central manor house was first
opened to referenced guests. A stickler for manners and
decorum Franca, ignoring the demands of the service
industry, boldly placed in the reception foyer the unusual greeting “All guests make us happy - some by coming, others by leaving.” She was indeed a confident
and tough task master to both staff and guests!
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The Aloisi de Larderel family
The Larderel Family Story
Marie-Blanche Viviani Della Robbia and Corso Aloisi de Larderel share as a common ancestor
the very interesting François de Larderel. A young Frenchman living at the time of the French
Revolution, he decided to seek fortune in Italy and left for Livorno in the wake of Napoleon Bonaparte’s conquest of Italy. He was an early entrepreneur, chemist by training and an inquisitive
young man by nature. He roamed the Tuscan land and discovered the dreadful fuming, sulfur
smelling, burning land called Montecerboli (Monte Cerberis) or Mount of the Devil. Being a foreigner and trained chemist he sought to analyze the ground and found that the vapors contained
a high degree of Boric Acid (quite useful in those times for pharmaceutical and general disinfection purposes). François quickly and brilliantly designed a process to extract the precious chemical
from the fumes, enacted his project, collected the chemical, sold it and became rich...very rich.
One of his son’s, Enrico, was the grand father to Marie-Blanche Viviani Della Robbia who was
the mother of Franca Visconti. His eldest brother, Federico gave birth to Florestano who is Corso
Aloisi de Larderel’s great grandfather. The Larderel enterprises spanned three generations evolving
from chemistry to geothermal energy until they were nationalized in the 1930’s. Larderello is a
small energy producing town in Tuscany (25% of Tuscan energy comes from there) created by the
Larderel’s.
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The Duchess Franca Visconti
Viviani Della Robbia
Duchess Franca Visconti Viviani Della Robbia was still a
beautiful woman at the advanced age at which I had the
pleasure to know her better and appreciate some qualities
of her strong personality. I met her a few years before her
death when she asked me to meet with her in order to touch
on specific items related to her properties.
I accepted her invitation and, after listening to her, I gave
her my point of view and advice - which she accepted.
This was the beginning of a strong friendship and mutual
respect that sadly ended only with her death.
This is not the place to discuss the ongoing business queries she shared with me but I would like to relate
her serenity in meeting with the conclusion of her earthly life, strengthened by her deep Christian Faith
and her special devotion to S.Padre Pio da Petrelcina.
I share just one episode.
One morning, while lying sick in her bed for several days, she asked me to drop in. When I was ushered
in she was busy talking on the phone with Signor Mugnaini, her long time trusted mason, to whom, with
ironic calm, she was imparting her instructions on how to prepare her grave stone.
Once the conversation ended, she hung up the phone and waved away the subject of her call - just as if
it were a matter of little importance. She then proceeded to discuss with me the business matter she had
called me in for.
This was Franca, the Duchess.
A Few Tips on Panzano in Chianti
The name of the village of Panzano is of Roman origin but the settlement is older since Etruscan
finds have been made in the neighbourhood. The first documentary evidence is 11th-Century,
when the development of the “borgo”, the village around the castle, at 500m, took place. The
castle stands on a ridge separating the Val di Greve from the Val di Pesa, exactly halfway between
Florence and Siena, between which it was always a source of contention.
The Romanesque Pieve of San Leolino, five minutes walk from Villa le Barone, dates back to the
10th century. It is one of the best known and the best loved churche of the Chianti. A graceful
five-arch 16th-century portico has been added to the Church. To the right handside of the Pieve’s
entrance is a large door, which leads into a charming, fresh and calm 13th-century cloister.
There is a rich collection of pictorial and sculptural works, including two tabernacles attributed
to Giovanni della Robbia. On the left side one can admire a 13th painting attribuated to Meliore
di Jacopo which represents the Madonna and Child with St. Peter and St. Paul. On the right
handside of the church a 13th-century triptych panel by the Master of Panzano represents the
mystical marriage of St. Catherine of Alessandria. In the choir, behind the high altar, there is a
polyptych attribuated to Mariotto di Nardo. A reliquary bust in polychrome terracotta represents
San Eufrosino, evangiliser and patron Saint of the Chianti, as a Bishop.
The fresco by the baptistry, ”the Baptism of Jesus in the river Jordan”, painted in the style of
Verrocchio at the end of the 15-th century, is attribuated Raffaellino del Garbo. It has just been
beautifully restored.
Classical music concerts, most often free of charge, take place in the church.
The Oratory of San Eufrosino, twenty minutes walk away from Villa Le Barone, was the destination of pilgrimages during the Middle Ages. The church was completely rebuilt in 1441 in the
Gothic style. It has a chapel with a little Romanesque altar, which probably belonged to the previous oratory. The church is open only for concerts and exhibitions, but nevertheless it is always
worth walking down to the oratory or around it, since it is located in a really beautiful place, in
the middle of the so called “Conca d’Oro”, the golden conch of Panzano.
Ugolino Della Gherardesca
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“A Charming Hotel with Great Character”: The Early Years
Contributing to the historical integrity and decorative charm are the
numerous family heirlooms scattered throughout
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“A Charming Hotel with Great Character”: The Early Years
“A Charming Hotel with Great Character”: The Early Years
S
Chianti, ultimately contributing to the long term economic growth and sustainability for future generations
of Chiantigiani. Villa Le Barone contributed both value and wealth to her neighbors heralding the unheard
small towns of San Leolino and Panzano as destination
spots.
ince its opening on June 30th 1976, Villa Le Barone
has been recognized as a charming hotel with great
character. Numerous guests, friends and journalists all
visited the small hotel singing its praises and sharing
accounts of their visits. Guest book entries grew from
short name and date entries to complimentary comments and letters about the villa, its staff and the magic
of its environs. The Duchess’s vision of an exclusive and
charming hotel was applauded in numerous articles and
hotel guides, it offered something new and different for
the adventurous traveler.
The crux of the hotel’s success was its mandate to be
more home than hotel, a concept both desirable and
complementary to the simple charms of the countryside. “A home where everything is right” wrote one early
visitor in the inn’s guest book. The Duchess and her
newly trained staff of loyal contadini welcomed travelers as personal guests with a casual but hospitable Tuscan warmth. In fact some of the earlier guests were so
comfortable amongst the staff and in the villa there are
amusing accounts of guests who chipped in to help busy
staff with reception, the bar or even carrying suitcases
for new arrivals. Many of these early guests still have
family members who visit the hotel today.
In the late 70’s and early 80’s the Chianti’s growing popularity continued to attract new visitors to the region
and Villa Le Barone was constantly full. Accommodation in the Chianti was still a scarce commodity and
often travelers arrived at the small hotel begging for a
room. Sometimes when the desperation for a place to
sleep was insistent the Duchess and her staff would provide weary travelers cushions and bedding to sleep on
the villa’s carpeted floors. The warm, simple Tuscan hospitality earned the hotel many loyal future guests. The
Duchess and her entrepreneurial establishment served
as the vanguard for future tourism development in the
In 1977 Ms. Rina Buonamici (the young wife of the
Duchess’s accountant) was assisting the Duchess with
other business matters but also began to help out behind
the scene of the hotel’s operation. Her calm, efficient
manner earned her the respect of the staff and numerous admirers amongst the guests and she kept the villa
running smoothly. In 1982 she officially took over the
hotel’s management. Rina remains the best witness to
the hotel’s history and many of its early stories.
herself she expected perfection and hired a professional
manager to oversee the hotel’s daily administration. After three professional but foreign “implants” the Duchess recognized the small hotel demanded someone
more familiar with the Tuscan model of casual but efficient hospitality. Working with a staff of local “Chiantigianni” whose culture is tied to the long traditions of
the area required the sensitivity and demure skills of a
respected Tuscan...someone who understood the land,
the people and local customs.
As the hotel’s reputation spread and its occupancy continued to increase the Duchess quickly sought professional administrative help. As a well traveled woman
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Rina’s Story
If walls in Le Barone had ears, they would say that a couple of the words more often heard over these
last thirty years would be: “Signora” and “Rina”. “Rina, I have a problem.” “Signora, please come and
help me”. “Rina, I don’t know what to do”. And of course, coming from the dear Duchessa: “Rina, come
immediately to see me; I want to change everything”. “Am I feeling proud that so many people rely on
my help in Le Barone?” More than proud I am happy that, in an era where standardization seems to
be everyone’s objective, a big part of my attention, of my time and of my life, has been devoted to solve
specific problems, adapt to unique situations and try to delight individual guests by answering their
personal wishes.
The first brochure of Villa Le Barone
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My husband Giuseppe (Peppino, affectionately) had set up the accounting system in Le Barone ( we
have not made much changes since then !) and disliked driving a car; as a good wife I used to drive
him to work in Le Barone and, little by little, I was taken in by the charm of the place, the charm of
the manageress of that time and the tornado like enthusiasm of the Duchesse. I started to contribute,
officially as an accountant, but in reality trying to help cope with the many unforecasted events that
make the salt of any start-up: two reservations for the same night and room, Nada’s cackling hens
running loose around the swimming pool, a baffled guest being explained by a staff member with a big
smile and a thick Tuscan accent how to dial a number in Staffordshire and the Duchessa, coming in
at the peak of the excitement, heatedly demanding an immediate answer on why last night’s dishes had
not been properly warmed and the flowerbeds not yet watered this morning!
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As time went by in our happy microcosm, I eventually was appointed in 1982 as the manageress of Le
Barone and was in touch with the Duchessa daily whether she was in Florence, traveling abroad or
in Le Barone. Let me describe her to you in a few words : tall, blond, piercing green eyes, beautiful in
spite of the many years, impatient at sloppiness; once an idea had gotten into her - and she had many
on the layout of the premises - she would relentlessly harass everyone – in the surroundings or not – to
get it implemented well and quickly. “What! It’s not possible! What do you mean it’s not possible? (the
tone would then be at its maximum) Yes, today, I want to start today; immediately!”. Sometimes, some
of the words she said were harsh, difficult to accept, but a smile from her, a thank you would make
you melt down and forgive everything. The Duchess’ accomplice for matters of masonry at Le Barone
was Maestro (Master) Mugnaini, an old Tuscan hand. The Duchess and he organized bathrooms, door
openings, moving walls, windows and other adaptations needed by a hotel according to their unfailing
taste... and their innate sense of architecture.
Would you also like to know why, in the early 21st century, we have a ‘No Topless’ sign by the pool? In
the early 80’s, a polite young teenager guest (probably from a Nordic country) asked if she could bathe
topless. The Duchess, from whom this capital authorization was requested, agreed. Then, at the end of
the morning, the Duchess strolled through the rose garden by the pool and saw that the topless bather
was not only the teenager, but also her dignified, but not as aesthetical grandmother. The Barone’s
carpenter, Mr. Ferruzzi, was immediately requested to prepare and deliver a sign with “No Topless”
on it!
Recently, I spoke to a friend’s daughter working in a hotel. Proud of her job, she enumerated to me all
the techniques, reporting and processes she mastered in her activities and then asked me: “And you?
How do you do it in Le Barone?”. I was a bit embarrassed at not having a convincing professional answer, but I gave her an honest and candid one : “I did it simply by putting my whole heart into it”!
Let me tell you a couple of stories about the early days of Le Barone: Terzo, an old farm hand (he
still comes to help prune the olive trees) was turned into a gardener and trained about the need for
quietness on the grounds of Le Barone. He was always caught by the dilemma of having a perfectly
trimmed lawn and having to disturb guests with the noise of a lawnmower. This gentle person would
then peep through the bushes around the swimming pool to check all guests had gone to dinner before
he could get out the noisy lawnmower and start working (He could be seen shutting down his machine
at 11pm just in time for early diners to have a quiet nightcap on the “terrazzo”. During the time he
was mowing the grass, his wife Nada was working as a maid in the restaurant, checking with nervous
stares that all guests she had been serving were finishing off their plates completely. If that were not the
case, she would first encourage them with a big smile and a big accent to eat and drink (“La beva!”,
“La mangi!”), then in case of failure, she would worriedly ask them if they did not like their food or if
they wanted something else. In most cases, the message put through in Tuscan would not be understood
and the affair would end with a big laugh.
Rina Buonamici, Manager Villa le Barone
Duchess Visconti was brought up by a British nanny and her mastery of English was perfect. One
evening, in the restaurant, she saw a guest send back a plateful of her favorite dish, “ribollita”, an old
recipe tuscan soup. She did not hesitate, rose from her table, took the dish from the maid and brought
it back to the bemused guest. She then explained what “ribollita”was, stated that the one cooked at
Le Barone was probably one of the best and did not leave the table until the bedraggled guest did not
swallow the last spoonful. The old Lady certainly had character!
“Villa le Barone manager Ms. Rina Buonamici with the late Duchess.”
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35
T.W.A. Ambassador magazine,
October, 1984
Selections of early years press cuttings about Villa Le Barone
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Olive Groves for 26 Bathrooms: Expansion, Restoration and Decor
One of the biggest challenge the Barone’ s transformation into
a hotel was the installation of 26 bathrooms
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Olive Groves for 26 Bathrooms: Expansion, Restoration & Decor
Olive Groves for 26 Bathrooms: Expansion, Restoration & Decor
O
pening the main house of the Villa as a bed and
breakfast proved successful prompting the Duchess to expand the Villa’s offering from 6 rooms to include the scattering of farm buildings surrounding the
Villa. But financing the expansion and refurbishment
would be costly. In an interview for the Italian journal
Alisei in November 1992 the Duchess shared her initial
vision and straightforward strategy for expansion:
The original “fattoria” building where farm staff lived
up to as recent as 1982 is upgraded and transformed
into a cozy nest of rooms clustered around a large fireplace common room which once served as the buildings
original kitchen and hearth.
Patios and terraces are created over old courtyards and
stable areas providing lovely common seating areas
and private nooks and crannies of meandering quaint
walkways through gardens and outer buildings to private rooms.
“I was the first to dare a new idea for Chianti and everyone looked at me incredulously. Permits were difficult
to attain, and I did not understand any of it... I sold the
surrounding land to help with the expenses and I did it.
I put in 26 bathrooms and upgraded the outlying rooms
but most of the villa remains like it was during the time
of my mother.”
Within the main manor house the original red tiled kitchen is transformed into an honesty bar for guests to
help themselves to a drink and relax while appreciating
the original monogrammed tile work and the grand
fireplace that once served as the central cooking center
of the country residence. The original dining room and
foyer fireplace are turned into breakfast rooms and the
vantage view tower room becomes the most sought after
guest room.
So the lovely cascading hills of silvery olive groves skirting the family farm were sold and Villa le Barone grew
to 29 rooms all with en suite bathrooms! Over the ensuing years other amenities were added. The longtime
chicken coop area overlooking the small town of San
Leolino was cleared, planted with roses and an azure
blue pool was installed.
Technological changes resulted in major wiring advancements. At first the Villa was able to operate with a
40
trinkets the Duchess personally chose while on her travels abroad. Family portraits and personal memorabilia
are lovingly scattered throughout retaining the intimacy
of a family home.
one line telephone and simple typewriter but today the
reception area houses a fully operational business center
with the necessary technological equipment required to
run a busy hotel. However what one won’t find in any
of the guest rooms are televisions. The rooms retain the
integral design and quiet comfort of a country retreat
away from the hustle and noise of the busy world.
Today the Villa boasts 29 guest rooms throughout four
buildings. Room spaces reflect their functional history
offering a broad range of diversity in accommodation
– from the quaint intimate rooms of the “fattoria” to
the grander rooms situated in the main manor house.
Today one can wander the grounds and spaces of Villa
Le Barone and still get an honest glimpse and understanding of a quieter, slower era.
But possibly the greatest upgrade to the hotel’s expansion was the addition of all the bathrooms. The convenience of en suites in all guest rooms was important to
the Duchess’s sense of hospitality. Creating space and
adding plumbing into rooms never intended to house
such modern luxuries proved to be an interesting challenge resulting in some clever and creative solutions for
bathrooms. Plumbing nightmares abound with amusing stories of guests good heartedly even using umbrellas once while dining inside the restored breakfast room
due to some early plumbing challenge. However through all of the changes, upgrades and construction the
original ambience is kept carefully intact using original
furniture, materials and colors to maintain the villa’s
historic integrity. Adding interest and eclectic diversity in some of the rooms are the many souvenirs and
41
The Tower room. A typical Tuscan
architectural tribute to the open
upper story loggias of the renaissance villa. Strategically situated
at the apex of the roof its elegantly
arched windows provide expansive
views of the Chianti countryside
offering a place of refuge and vantage. When the hotel first opened
the room served as a lounge area
but currently is one of the most popular guest rooms of the Villa.
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1935
2006
The old fattoria building wich once provided housing for farmers today serves a nest of guestrooms
43
The Mantor house wich was once the main residence but currently houses of guest room. All the rooms of the Villa are furnished with family heirlooms, antique chests, paintings and bedsteads that provide intimate glimpses into the home’s noble and
splendid past. No two rooms are alike and instead offer unique
features and tailored palettes.
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45
The old Press Room with wine barrels,
now restored to serve as the dining hall.
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47
A place to come to
“The entrance foyer and reception area of Villa Le Barone.
The stairwell foyer today acts as the breakfast buffet room.”
I visited Le Barone for the first time in the summer of 1991. My parents had found it in the Michelin Guide,
had stayed there for a few days, and then had recommended it to me.
I was a rather junior attorney at the time. Therefore I was very happy that this first visit was financed by the
Dutch Bar Association, who had requested my colleague Maurice Polak (no family) and me to write a story
that could serve as a case for a conference organized by the joint European Bar Associations. Maurice and
I had managed to stipulate a fee sufficiently lavish to spend a week in Le Barone. The story, named “A Case
for Europe”, was indeed written there, working daily on the lower terrace under the chestnut trees, where it
is never really hot.
In recent years, I have returned many times, first with a girlfriend and later on with my parents, my grandmother, and Tanja, the women who would later become my wife. Since then, Tanja and I have been back
several times with our children.
The charm of Le Barone is, as all visitors know, manifold. The authenticity of the villa, the beautiful setting,
the pleasant low key manners of the staff, and the understated luxury of the self service bars, to name just a
few.
In the course of the years, not much has changed. There has been some refurbishment, but this only serves to
reinforce original charms. By not changing, and at the same time maintaining its attraction, Le Barone has
become a fixed point in life. Just by sitting on the upper terrace at breakfast makes one wonder at what has
changed in one’s own life since the last visit. The coffee is still excellent, the friendly smile of the director Rina
is still reassuring, but life has gone on. Le Barone is still the same. A place to come to relax, to recharge, and
to reflect.
I can only hope that in thirty years time, my children will visit this place, and will realize that life has gone
on, but that their parents, their grandparents and even their grand-grandmother whom unfortunately they
have never known, have been there before, with the same delight and with the same thoughts.
Rob Polak, the Netherlands, 31 October 2005
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49
Tuscan Hospitality: The Staff
The Count and the Countess Aloisi de Larderel with the staff at Villa Le Barone
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It is impossible to mention all the loyal staff who have contributed and shared in the Villa’s transformation over the
last 30 years but there are those that are integral to the history and story of Villa le Barone as an Hotel..
Tuscan Hospitality: The Staff
TERZO and NADA
In May 1990 a guest at Villa Le Barone wrote
Though a relatively small hotel its operation demands
the services of chamber maids, waiters, waitresses, chefs,
cooks, gardeners, receptionists, concierge, porters and
managers. Today most are still long time employees coming back year after year. The majority of this dedicated
staff are locals, people familiar with the land, its history
and culture and have over the years developed a secondary family amongst themselves, singing and laughing
often under incredible pressure and long hours. From
its intimate opening in 1976 with only a few staff the
Villa now swells in the busy season to a staff of twenty.
With the evolving needs and developments in hospitality and technology the long time staff continue to adapt
to a modernized world of computers, faxes, internet,
mechanical equipment for housekeeping, kitchen, garden and landscaping. For 30 years Villa Le Barone staff
has risen to their exemplary best. Today a new generation of staff begins to enter the halls of this boutique hotel and those of its numerous neighbors. Following the
footsteps of their older generations, this new generation
of workers ensures the long time traditions of hospitality, service and pride of work will continue to thrive in
the hills of Chianti.
“Obviously the hotel the food and the spectacular setting
all contributed to our general contentment, however
there is no doubt that the excellent and friendly service
we experienced from all of you was perhaps the greatest
single factor in guaranteeing our holiday success “.
T
his type of accolade truly underlines the flavor
of Villa le Barone’s charm...its staff. Over its 30
year history as a boutique hotel the Villa and its
management have breathed the very essence of Tuscan
hospitality - a staff always present and aware but not
officious and imposing. Raised in the solid traditional
ethics of those who worked the land for centuries the
loyal contadini, under the direction of the determined
Duchess, learned new skill sets, laying down their shovels and ploughs and picking up suitcases and trays.
Proud of their place and eager to share the appreciation
and results of their toil the small staff were flexible and
helpful, uncomplainingly responsive to the changing
and demanding needs of the many guests. The voluminous guest books are 30 years of testimonials to the
dedicated and loyal staff who took personal interest in
ensuring each guests stay was enjoyable and memorable.
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Terzo was born in the Fattoria and worked in Villa le Barone all his
life, first on the farm and then as a gardener from the opening of the
hotel until 1995. He still comes occasionally to help and train the
younger generation of gardeners. His wife Nada also converted herself
from the work in the Fattoria to a lovely, generous and helpful waiter
until a heart attack obliged her to cease work.
MARCO
Marco came first to le Barone in 1978 as a waiter. Upon finishing
his secondary school studies he continued at the hotel working as a
receptionist and helpful concierge until an unexpected illness took him
away in 1995. His kindness, enthusiasm and “joie de vivre” are still
missed but not forgotten.
RINA
There have been 4 managers at Villa le Barone between 1976
and 1982, but only one since 1982: Rina Buonamici,
the pillar and soul of Le Barone.
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“Local staff serving guests at a
celebratory buffet at the newly
opened Villa le Barone Hotel”
“Staff collecting flowers for
the guest rooms”
“We could not have been better looked after or shown more kindness by everyone at the Villa.”
“If you can please a family with members aged 11 to 60 you must be doing the right things!”
“One could not want for anything here”
“The staff bustles about with an easy going friendliness under the charming Catarinas supervision”
“Thank you for your first class hospitality”
Thank you everybody for looking after us so well and making our holiday so special”
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Guest Book September 1985
Guest Book July 1991
Guest Book May 1997
Guest Book June 2000
Guest Book July 2001
Guest Book August 2002
Food, Wine and Celebrations: Dining at Villa Le Barone
Guest drink at night in courtyard terrace
Food, Wine and Celebrations: Dining at Villa Le Barone
F
ood and wine are often said to be the “soul” of Italy.
Chianti has a long history as a favored wine producing region for Italy and now the world. The number of small and grand wineries is abundant in the area
and when traveling through Chianti one is constantly
tempted to stop and taste the wines and olive oils of
the region. Home to the famous Chianti Classico and
now the Super Tuscans theses vintages of the region are
considered synonymous with the term “Italian wine”.
Villa Le Barone proudly shares in the wine history of
the Chianti as a small Chianti Classico producer under the management of the Duchess’s mother Marchesa
Marie-Blanche Della Robbia. With the transformation
of the estate into a small hotel the operation of its winery and presses ceased but the villa’s idyllic location offers
premium access to both boutique and established vintners. Also its own wine cellars continue to stock a fine
selection of wines to please discerning palates.
menu and service. Employing a staff of home bred local
Tuscan chefs the cuisine at the Villa’s kitchens present
casual Tuscan cooking using fresh ingredients grown on
the property itself or from the local farms. Today the
olive oil and meats are from the Maremma farms of the
Larderel family.
What you eat is important but also where you eat
factors high as well. The Chiantigiani strongly believe
no meal should ever be rushed and should be enjoyed
in a casual and comfortable environment. The local homesteads underline this credo with kitchen and dining
areas taking on prominent roles as the hubs for family
activity. At Villa Le Barone the numerous dining areas
serve as the heart and pivotal center for social interaction. The shady terrace areas for dining al fresco are scattered with linen covered tables and comfortable seating
and the old stables and press rooms have been lovingly
converted into an inviting dining room for the evening
meal. The recent addition of a new terraced dining patio
exclusively for the evening meal is the latest investment
to ensure a truly wonderful Chianti dining experience.
Wine and food were important elements to the Duchess’s sense of hospitality - one could not work, relax
or breathe without having a good meal to sustain them.
Therefore providing “board” alongside accommodation
was essential to a Villa Le Barone, Chianti sojourn. In
Tuscany as all over Italy dining is not just about the
food it is about the experience, encompassing place,
“The cooks play an essential role in the reputation of the house”
“The food and wine in the charming hotel Villa Le Barone was a match for
the best French provincial cuisine with an excellent cellar”
Guest Book: July 1994
Guest Book: Aug. 1995
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59
The old main kitchen with original tiled cooking hearth today serves as a self serve bar for hotel guests.”
Dining at Villa Le Barone
The day began with a continental style buffet breakfast served inside the villa by the foyer’s fireplace. Guests were
welcome to eat in the original dining room or outside on the sun dappled courtyard. Fresh food served by a friendly
staff certainly started the day on the right track.
Since this was our first visit we were a little apprehensive about having dinner at the hotel multiple evenings but
our concern disappeared the first evening.
From the moment we entered the charming and cozy restaurant in the old winery we knew we were in for a
wonderful experience. The dining room is bright, friendly, and filled with flowers. Each evening we were greeted with
a gorgeous antipasto buffet display of garden fresh vegetables and delicious local Tuscan delights.
The menu changed daily and we looked forward to dinner each evening. The variety was outstanding and thoughtfully
prepared. A special treat is the fresh beef raised on the owner’s farm. Everything was beautifully prepared and
presented by a caring and knowledgeable staff. Of course in Italy every dinner deserves the best wine. The wine list
was outstanding with one of our favorites being the Fontodi Chianti Classico Reserve. A visit to this nearby winery is
a nice adventure. After dinner a glass of Vin Santo served with delectable cantucci was the perfect close to a glorious
day and a special culinary experience.
We looked forward to returning again and again!
Barbara & David Buzzelli, September, 2006 - USA
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Chianti and the Consorzio del Gallo Nero :
An Italian Vintage for centuries
Chianti classico and super tuscans
Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ has a richer taste than Chianti Classico, is generally produced only with red
grapes and is kept longer in vats, barrels or barriques before being commercialized. Approximately
20% of Chianti Classico becomes ‘Riserva’. ‘Riserva’ can be drunk best from 5 to 15 years after
vinification.
The rolling hills between Siena and Florence have been an enological center for several thousand years.
In fact one of the regions local varietals traditionally used in Chianti Classico, the Canaiolo nero grape,
was known to the ancients as the “Etruscan Grape.” The name Chianti used for centuries to describe this
region of hills possibly derives from the local noble Etruscan family the Clantes. In the mid 13th century
Florence created the “Lega del Chianti” to unite the regions’ three most important centers – Castellina,
Radda and Gaiole and they chose the black rooster as their symbol. By 1404 the red wine long produced
here was being called Chianti and in 1716 a grand ducal decree defined the boundaries of the Chianti
and laid down general rules for its production, making it the world’s first officially designated wine producing area. In the 19th century one vinter, experimented with varietals using the sangiovese grape as his
base. Working off centuries of refinement, he eventually came up with a balance of grapes that became
the unofficial standard for all Chianti. Soon the title “Chianti” was being used by hundreds of producers
both in the area and farther afield. Not all were producing good quality wine and the international reputation of Chainti became degraded. To fight against this the Greve and Castelnuovo Berardenga joined
the original Lega cities and formed the “Consorzio del Gallo Nero” in 1924 and revived the old black
rooster as their seal. The consorzio, which is still active today, pressed for laws to regulate the quality of
chianti wines and restrict the Chianti Classico name to their production zone only When Italy devised its
DOC and DOCG laws in 1960 Chianti was one of the first to be defined guaranteeing its quality as one
of the top in the country. Today over 100 sq km or 7,000 hectares ov vineyards are dedicated to the grapes
that will eventually become the Chianto Classico and carry the seal of the black rooster.
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Super-Tuscan is a generalized name for wines, raised
within or without the Chianti Classico region using:
non traditional grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and/or Syrah)
mix of different grape types: 100% Sangiovese,
or Sangiovese-Cabernet Sauvignon, or CabernetMerlot,...)
non traditional vinification processes (ageing in newly
made French barriques)
Contrarily to Chianti Classico, no legal specification
exists for Super-Tuscans. Many Super-Tuscans use the
IGT (Typical Geographical Origin) certification.
DOCG means Controlled and Guaranteed Origin : wine type corresponds to criteria defined in its
zone of origin.
The Gallo Nero (Black Rooster) label certtifies that the bottler of the wine belongs to the Chianti
Classico consortium and is a guarantee of enological quality and taste.
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RIBOLLITA
MEDICI PUDDING
Ingredients:
Ingredients:
garlic: 2 cloves
carrots: 2
black cabbage: 14 oz
savoy cabbage: 11 oz
onion: 1
cooked cannelini beans: 12 oz
olive oil: 1 glass
stale bread: 11 oz
pepper:
tomatoes: 5
leek: 1
salt:
celery: 2 stalks
thyme: 1 branch
4 slices of toast or 2 croissants
6 eggs
150 g sugar
1 litre of milk
1 sachet of vanillina
raisins and pine seeds
Preparation:
Boil the milk with sugar and
vanillina.
Take off the heat.
Whisk the eggs, then add the
warm milk.
Put the slices of toast into an
ovenproof dish, add some raisins, pour the liquid until it has
been a bit absorbed.
Sprinkle some pine seeds on
top.
Bake in the oven at 180° for approx. 30 mins.
Preparation:
“The food and wine in the charming hotel Villa Le Barone was a match
for the best French provincial cuisine with an excellent cellar”
Guest book July 1994
“The cooks play an essential role in the reputation of the house”
Guest book September 1993
64
In a large pan brown the onion
and chopped garlic. When
they turn a golden colour add
the leeks, celery and carrot all
chopped finely then add the
tomatoes chopped into pieces,
the thyme, and cabbage finely
chopped, salt and pepper to taste. Mash all the vegetables (or
liquidize). Seperate a quarter of
the beans and mash (or liquidize) the rest. Add all the mashed
ingredients to the soup. If necessary add hot water. Leave to
cook for half an hour. When it
is all ready add the remaining
whole beans, leave to cook for
some minutes all together, the
mixture should have a liquidy
texture. Slice the bread and place at the bottom on two levels.
At the moment of serving cover
reheat over a low flame. Serve
with added olive oil and black
pepper directly on the plates.
PEPOSO
Legend has it that Brunelleschi cooked his peposo in the same furnace and at the same time he
cooked the bricks for the dome he was building in Santa Maria del Fiore …
Take very lean beef stew meat, preferably from the shank, cut in large pieces .
Put the meat, garlic and tomato, salt and freshly ground pepper (at least a level soup spoon) into a large
earthenware dish. Cover completely with cold water, put on the lid and place in the oven, previously heated
to 180° C. Cook for about two hours, checking that it does not dry out too much; if so, add a little warm
water. At the end, add some ground pepper and a little olive oil. The meat should be very tender by the end
and the sauce well reduced and thick. Advised wine: Fontodi Classico 2003
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A Farm in Chianti: A brief History
“A holiday in Paradise”
Europe in the early 20th century was sadly witness to two World Wars and though the Chianti stumbled through the
first unscathed in the latter it experienced the invasion of soldier encampments and many of the agricultural homesteads
became infantry outposts interrupting the centuries old farming patterns.
But the post war modern world had far reaching global effects and the rural Chianti was unable to regain its previous
agricultural momentum and the pastoral existence of Tuscany was changed forever. Long time farms and contadini
A Chianti
Garden:
poollucrative
and vistas
homes were abandoned as laborers
were attracted
instead toRoses,
pursue more
opportunities in the fast growing
city centers. Finding and retaining reliable farm managers or workers was difficult and maintaining the Villa Barone
as an operational farm became an increasing challenge for Maria Bianca and many other Chianti land owners.Villa Le
Barone persevered despite the hardships and in her celebrated book “A Farm in Chianti” Maria Bianca shares her many
challenges and mourns the deteriorating state of the Chianti farms, angry and disappointed at the changing loyalty of
the younger generation of contadini.
She remained until her death in DATE still confident and optimistic that the inherent love of the land will ensure its
future.
A view from the Tower Room
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67
A Chianti Garden: Roses, pool and vistas
T
The vegetation throughout remains simple and natural,
from the formal greenery to the open spaces that have
color of every hue. Indeed the gardens of Villa Le Barone
are witness to a constant evolution of colors. The walls
of the villa are blanketed in climbing vines that colorfully mark the seasons. Scattered throughout the grounds
are terracotta pots and boarders abundant with seasonal
blooms of geraniums and impatiens.
Though the Chianti is noted for its mild climate it is
often a surprise to visitors to learn the winter months
often bring snow and ice. The Chianti can and has experienced extreme winter conditions. Any local will share
a sad story of lost vines, destroyed olive trees and frozen
homes. Such was the case in 1986 when the Chianti was
blanketed with snow and ice and the extreme low temperatures froze the ground and the frost set in.
The entire region sadly experienced extensive loss of vegetation. Villa Le Barone was not spared and lost most
of its olive trees. That spring the Chianti sadly showed
the bruises of its winter battles and the area was determinedly replanted. Today the silvery branches of the young
olive trees again thrive alongside gnarled vineyards and
furrowed meadows erasing all traces of past winter strife.
he beauty of the Chianti countryside has long seduced locals and visitors. The gently rolling hills reflect
the imposing order of generations of workers who have
cultivated the land as if it were one enormous tended
garden. From the vantage point of the Villa’s commanding hill top setting these vistas, serene and luxuriant,
are echoed in the very gardens of the Villa itself.
Over the years the gardens have adapted themselves to
the changing needs of the Villa’s occupants. Composed
of a diverse mix of Mediterranean vegetation the current
gardens are built on pre existing terraced vineyards and
the dry stone walls containing land molded by the hard
toil of farmers now serve to support a well stocked vegetable garden for the kitchen, rose beds for the enjoyment
of guests, small orchards for shade and sun dappled terraces to relax.
It is a blending of modern needs with the long time elements of the Tuscan landscape. These additions to the
core structure of the land have enhanced the gardens
even further providing a wide variety of trees, flowering
bushes and roses everywhere.
Apparent throughout is the owners, past and present,
love of gardening. Both the Marchesa and her daughter
the Duchess were avid gardeners. The former planting a
myriad of Dahlias and the latter numerous rosebeds. This
tradition of gardening still runs strong with current custodians Corso and Jaqceuline. You will often find them
on bended knee pulling weeds or pruning the extensive
rose bushes and orchards, both recent additions mandated to supply the house with constant fresh flowers.
A large part of the Chianti’s magic is the outdoors; dining
al fresco, long country walks, lying in the sun or reading
under the generous shade of the Tuscan evergreens. Villa
Le Barone provides all of these activities but for those in
want of more vigorous activity there is now a swimming
pool and tennis court on the property as well.
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Blanche
Draw of core of Villa Le Barone estate
69
A view of San Leolino fromm the Pool Garden
70
The Rose Garden
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As one guest exclaimed humorously “ a far too seductive spot
for those wanting to go Tuscany cultural traipsing”
The Duchess loved the vistas and ensured it was experienced everywhere at Villa Le Barone, even while playing tennis!
Set amidst verdant lawns , bordered by flowering rose bushes the blue
tiled pool overlooks the small hamlet of San Leolino and the countryside.
Once an area to contain chickens and livestock the Duchess cleared the
land, strategically re planted and converted the old stone farm buildings
into changing rooms and a self serve refreshment bar.
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73
Four seasons at Villa Le Barone
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Four seasons at Villa Le Barone
Winter
Summer
Spring
Autumn
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A symphony s of thanks: Guests, friends and family
The villa also boasts a small formally designed garden off the dining hall. This charming whimsical pattern of box hedges is
reminiscent of an earlier era in the Villa’s long history underlining its function once as a noble retreat
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A symphony s of thanks: Guests, friends and family
author: Alex ZÜrcher
S
ince its opening in 1976 the numerous guests and
visitors to the Villa Le Barone hotel have left a diverse and wonderful contribution of notes, photos, poems
and paintings. These have become a valuable collection
of treasures for the owners and the staff. They are the
testaments to and the value of vision, toil and place.
Sharing her home became the ultimate passion for the
Duchess and the following pages are just a small sampling of the results.
author: Alex ZÜrcher
Painting of the Lounge area of Villa Le Barone by Anna Ricceri
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Villa Le Barone: Autumn Paradise
No lovlier garden
Roses abound
Church bells and song birds
Peaceful, heavenly sound.
Bright red orange ivy –
Clings to ancient wall
Vineyards surround us –
Harvest in the fall.
The Duchess is gracious
Her paradise to share
Villa Le Barone, so lovely so fair.
Sally Whiting (Oct. 1997)
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“Le Barone “ or a certain idea of the happiness...
Guest Sidney Aerdons painting of the garden at Villa Le Barone
Just by mentioning this simple name, “Le Barone”, a hundred images pass by to the rhythm of seasons, of slow paced
Time, there is the smell of roses, of old varieties of roses with innumerable crumpled petals and the scent of Granny,
or the invasive smell of a fresh mown lawn, and its tender green velvet with pearls of dew than one treads upon, alone,
in the early morning ..., there is the San Leolino chime that puts in rhythm the fresh hours of a golden morning or
those, warmer, of a sweet, ochre colored, evening, that solitary bell barely able to cover the chirping of hungry swallows circling through the dusk slowly settling over Impruneta...
Quality of life ... that’s it! Is there a place more blessed by the ‘douceur de vivre’, by good taste, by ‘dolce farniente’,
where the surroundings enable so many silent discoveries, timeless dreams, where one really feels as being an integral
part the landscape, ...such as sitting by the pool and letting one’s stare wander over the almost infinite ocean of the
surrounding hills, soft motionless waves with pastel colors and subtle harmonies, where the only visible objects are
cypresses pointing – just like fingers – in the direction of God.
And at night, to listen to silence, light and discreet, restful and relaxing, only interrupted sometimes by the exuberant
and joyous richness of the nightingale, under a starlit dome, bigger, more beautiful, more extended and nobler than
elsewhere, yes, ... but why?
And what about the warm welcoming reception, service, authentic Tuscan food and, on an lazy afternoon stroll by
the restaurant, listening to the cooks singing whilst preparing the evening dinner ... Every room has its secret and its
own intimate charm, and the pleasure to drink a nice cup of tea upon returning from an autumn walk, in the living
room - just as at home - with a blazing fireplace to warm and cheer up, the mind still full with the smell of wet leaves,
mushrooms, the perfume of fermenting grapes and mist taking over the Conca d’Oro.
A quarter of a century, already, and I don’t get bored by coming back, ‘home’ I was going to say, again and again ...,
and the imprint of the Duchess, always so present, with her spirit and soul that had such an influence on the site and
watches over us from the height of the hill over the village. ... ‘Le Barone’ is all this, where each detail, a frame with
its ancient print, an old stone bench covered by moss, a last glass of Vin Santo and Cantucci late at night, under the
chestnut trees, an afternoon nap by the pool right under the plum tree, exactly where the early evening breeze starts
pushing leaves around and creates moving lights and shadows... and feel good ... not wishing anything else or anything
more, ... and what if this is what happiness is about ...?
Dr Halbritter Switzerland March 2006
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New Horizons: The Future
Painting of the Patio of Villa Le Barone by Anna Ricceri
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New Horizons: The Future
L
e Barone has great emotional value for me. As a teenager, I spent peaceful summer holidays there with
my dear Aunt Franca. She shared her projects with me,
such as the creation of new rooms, her passion and her
sense of quality and perfection. She never ceased to tell
me, “all is in the details,” and no defect, however small,
went uncorrected!
While being attached to a certain tradition, Franca was,
like her mother Marie-Blanche, very modern, and personally involved in all fields of the hotel – from decoration of the rooms to gardening. She kept motivating
and correcting the staff with her “steel hand”, bringing
them round to her ideas.
I spent happy moments in her company, impregnating
myself with her lifestyle and her personality. Le Barone
is also very special to me as we celebrated many family
events there. In particular, it is the place where I was
married and where my second daughter will be christened.
Transmitted from woman to woman - Marie-Blanche,
Franca - the mission as a future custodian is not easy.
“It is necessary that everything changes so that nothing
changes” wrote Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa.
It is a question of preserving the spirit of Le Barone – a
family home where nature and culture blossom - while
modernizing and adapting to the current world.
Blanche Aloisi de Larderel
“The splendid site of the house, the calm and quiet, the
peaceful evenings under the trees all this is why people
who know Villa Le Barone will return...For all these
reasons Villa Le Barone must go on maintaining the
character and charm of a Villa” – Sept. 03
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Portrait Picture in Salon
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Acknowledgement
Text to insert
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SUMMARY
SUMMARY
1971
October 26th , Marie Blanche, Marchesa Viviani Della Robbia , born de Larderel, passes
away, and her daughter Franca , duchess Visconti inherit Villa le Barone.
1985
After a long period of extremely cold weather in early January and many olive trees perish.
To remedy the emptiness, rose beds are created in what was the olive grove.
1974
Duchess Visconti decides to sell the “podere” and most of the land, and to transform le Barone into a hotel.
1991
Construction of the tennis court.
1976
On June 30th inauguration ceremony and opening of Villa le Barone as a Hotel. The Hotel
consists of nine rooms, all in the Villa, and five bathrooms. Dinners are served in one room
on the ground floor of the “Fattoria” (the place where the manager of the farm was living) or,
weather permitting, on the terrace format garden overlooking Panzano.
1978
The pool is dug, in a part which was earlier a poultry pen, and the lawn and surroundings
are arranged. The “Tower room “in the Villa, which was used as a lounge, is transformed
into a bedroom.
1982
7 rooms are created on the first floor of the Fattoria. The kitchen of the “Fattoria” becomes
the lounge.
1983
On July 3rd, inauguration of the new restaurant in what once the Villa’s cellar
1984
Opening of the three rooms with terrace in the “garden house”, and of three rooms on the
ground floor of the “Fattoria”
1995
New bedrooms are created on the ground floor of the fattoria.
2003
April 17th, Franca Visconti passes away.
Her cousin Corso Aloisi de Larderel and his wife Jacqueline take over Le Barone.
2004
There is now air conditioning in 18 rooms.
2005
Maintenance and upgrading works are performed, keeping the same spirit
2006
A terrace to dine “al fresco” is opened. a new orchard with more than 30 species is planted, and
a new rose bed with more than 70 roses bush are installed to provide for the bouquets in the
rooms.