Elbrus Expedition – North Side

Elbrus Expedition – North Side
THE CAUCASUS MOUNTAINS rise between the great plains of Russia and the mountainous territories
of Trans-Caucasian. They extend for 1200 km from East to West, between the Caspian Sea and the
Black Sea. The mountain system includes dozens of peaks over 4000 meters high and about 2000
glaciers.
THE CENTRAL CAUCASUS is the heart of the Caucasus, the highest and most fascinating part of the
entire mountain system and the one with the most difficult access. Closed off to the west by Mt. Elbrus
and to the east by Mt. Kazbek, the divide is quite articulate, complex and branches off to the north and
south into a series of buttresses. Here lie the most famous rock faces in the Caucasus system scattered
over the regions of Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Bezengi, Svanetia and, in the easternmost part of the central
Caucasus, of Digoria, Karaugorn and Tsey.
MOUNT ELBRUS dominates the countryside of the Central Caucasus
like a two-headed icy giant. It has two peaks that correspond to two
different volcano vents: the western peak (Zapadnaya) is the tallest
one, while the eastern peak (Vostochnaya), at 5621 meters high, still
has a gigantic crater 250 meters in diameter. The entire mountain
is covered by an immense sheet of ice that occupies 145 square kms
and in some zones is 400 meters thick. From the col that divides the
two peaks the white slopes of the mountain descend gently, splitting
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up into tongues of ice and crevasses lying in the many striking valleys that radiate from the mountain.
A circular lava massif, it has a diameter of 18 kilometres and more than 70 large and small glaciers flow
from its slopes.
THE FIRST person to climb the mountain was Russian Killar Khashirov in 1829, as part of a military
scientific expedition. 39 years later British climber Douglas Freshfield climbed the East Peak and in
1874 the higher summit was reached by F Crawford Grove.
THE APPROACH FOR THE NORTHERN ROUTE to Mount Elbrus starts with your arrival into Mineralyne
Vody where you will meet with our head guide Sasha Lebedev who has worked for us for over a
decade and has led every Adventure Alternative climb on the mountain. The Northern route is a lot
more adventurous than the normal southern route. It is more remote and does not have the ‘tourist’
infrastructure found on the southern side. Due to this it offers a purer mountaineering experience with
most accommodation on the mountain being in tents. Food is still cooked by our team and kitchen and
dining tents are carried in. Showers are not available on this route but hot water is provided for
washing. The southern side has cable cars and snow machines for carrying personal equipment up the
mountain, but on the North side we use porters only for the main expedition equipment and you will
be expected to carry your own personal gear to the top hut and the final camp as you acclimatise. You
won’t be carrying heavy loads and this is a perfect way to experience the methods and principles used
to climb higher mountains in the Greater Rangers.
We have an excellent team on the ground in Russia who will not only look after you very well but also
be good company whilst you attempt to climb Europe’s highest peak. It is a remote area and there is
more self-preservation on the north side, but beautiful panoramas, wildlife and mountain scenery.
Summit slopes on the north side
View from the top hut
Mt Elbrus is not technically difficult however it is in a region which attracts very temperamental
weather. For this reason you should ensure that you have good clothing and equipment with you. The
weather and lack of fitness are the main reasons for unsuccessful summits. Many people assume that
since Mt Elbrus is lower than Kilimanjaro that they will summit successfully but there is no doubt that
it is much harder. The climb tends to attract a wide variety of abilities, so a degree of tolerance is vital
for good team dynamics and enjoyment.
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ITINERARY:
Please note that due to the nature of the climb and weather on Elbrus we cannot guarantee a fixed
itinerary during the final climbing period. The itinerary below is an ideal scenario however the situation
on the ground at the time (group ability, acclimatisation, weather and terrain) will allow your guide to
adapt the itinerary to the safest option during your climbing period which will allow a summit.
Day minus 1. Depart home, fly overnight to reach Moscow the following morning (See our flight info
sheet).
Day 1. (this is the advertised trip date on our website and the arrival date into Mineralyne Vody) Fly
in the morning from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody, meet the Adventure Alternative team and then a
transfer to the base camp of the mountain, a journey of 5/6hrs to reach Mt Elbrus. The 1st section of
the journey is on asphalt roads which then changes to earth/dirt track roads. We then have our first
night under canvas at base camp which is at Emanuil's glade at the foot of Elbrus at 2250 m.
Day 3, 4, 5. We will enjoy acclimatisation walks along the hardened lava and enjoy the exotic
surrounding landscapes of stone mushrooms, volcanic bombs and lava sculptures. Acclimatisation
ascent to high camp, which is at 3800 m (4-5 hours) to drop off some gear.
Day 6, 7, 8. Ascend to the high camp on moraine (Northern shelter, 3800 m, 4-5 hours). Overnight in
the high camp (a hut) at 3800m. Practical training / tuition in safe travel techniques on snow.
Acclimatisation ascent and training walk (5 hours) to Lenz's rocks (4600m).
Day 9, 10, 11. Summit attempts to the West Peak. Depending on weather we may camp at Lenz’s
Rocks.
Day 12. Breakfast, transfer to the Mineralyne Vody airport and fly to Moscow.
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Climbing Mt Elbrus –
If you have climbed the likes of Kilimanjaro before
then you will be used to quite a structured itinerary
involving gradually climbing up the mountain each
day to the summit. The style in which Mt Elbrus is
climbed is different; we do carries of equipment and
adopt a ‘climb high sleep low’ principle. This
acclimatisation is important and allows everybody to
prepare for the summit day.
Due to acclimatisation, weather and objective
dangers on the mountain, there has to be an element
of fluidity in the programme that allows for the unforeseen! The guides will brief you regarding the
itinerary and make decisions to ensure group safety based on the many factors which must come
together to allow a successful summit of this beautiful peak.
The drive to Base Camp – Initially you will take a minibus from the city for about two hours before
transferring to jeeps or a truck and going off-road. These jeeps are Russian made, the only vehicles
available, and are not brand new but the drivers are well used to the conditions. There is a river
crossing just before base camp, and sometimes it is necessary to use a footbridge to carry equipment
across.
Base Camp, 2570m – We have a number of comfortable mountain tents which can accommodate up
to three people easily, although you may wish to keep it to two. There is a kitchen tent for cooking and
eating and a small sauna nearby. There is also a toilet but washing is done in the river about 120
metres away. Our team will provide hot washing water for hands and face etc, but there are no
showers. Bring a towel and wash kit, and a swimming costume if you intend to go for a dip! The biggest
problem is drying clothes if it is not sunny.
High Camp, 3750m – this is situated on the edge of moraine and there are several huts and good
places for tents. It takes about 4 hours to walk here, which will need to be done at least twice to move
the gear and food into place and assist with your acclimatisation.
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Top hut with Elbrus peak in the background
Lenz Rocks – the rocks start at 4570 metres and extend up to 5250 metres. If possible we can try to
camp in the rocks to shorten the summit day. This is the section where you will see crevasses so the
decision will be made by guides about the use of man ropes to keep everybody safely secured
together. You will need plastic boots, crampons and trekking or ski poles for this section, plus your
mountain clothing and shell. There is a clear route that has been previously marked along rocky ridges
where possible. Some sections are straight up and therefore steeper, but no more than about 35
degrees.
The route from Summit Camp to Summit – it takes about 2 hours to ascend the length of the Lenz
Rocks and then a further 5 hours to reach the Saddle at 5600 metres. From here to the summit is a
further 4 hours. It must be stressed that a successful summit of the peak requires ideal weather
conditions, excellent snow conditions and a strong team. It is a long summit day and involves a long
ascent. It is not very steep or technical, but it is an expedition peak with some objective danger in
crevasses and potential avalanche (if there has been snowfall).
Objective dangers on summit day - The weather will determine whether or not you get out of bed to
go for the summit, and you should expect temperamental conditions with cold and wind and snowfall
and lack of visibility. Down or heavy fleece layers and good shells (wind / waterproof trouser and
jacket) are important. Try to keep dry at all times, as well as warm, and make sure you have a dry set
of base layers to change into when you get back from the summit.
Snowfall will inevitably create the potential for avalanche, and this is a serious consideration on any
mountain. Avalanche conditions remain long after the snowfall has stopped so do not expect to have a
second attempt at the summit if the first attempt was prevented by heavy snow; the objective dangers
still remain.
If the weather prior to your summit day has been clear and generally good, and you have clear skies
during the night when you get up, then you will probably have a chance to go to the summit.
If all is favourable during your climbing period then a decision will
be made on which day to summit Mt Elbrus, but it the reality is
that trying a second time simply involves too much energy and is
very difficult. It all depends on the situation.
It is not possible to ask Sasha to re-adjust the programme beyond
the dates of your visa, to change flights or split into two groups.
The Russian visa you have cannot be extended, you can’t change
a flight in Russia at all easily, and Sasha has a responsibility to
look after everyone. On the summit day itself there will be several guides however, and it may be
possible for some people to continue if others need to turn back. Again, there can be no
generalisation, it entirely depends on the group itself and the conditions on the day.
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Elevation of main huts and points
Base Camp
2250m
High Camp
3800m
Lenz Rocks
4600m
Saddle
5300m
West Summit
5642m
Communication – There is no mobile phone coverage on the north side of Elbrus so we are out of
contact for the duration of the trip. Some people may want to bring their Spot which will show where
you are to friends and family. We also have handheld radio sets for use on the mountain between the
guides. In the event of someone coming down, a guide will always accompany that person and keep in
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touch with the others.
Staff – Sasha is the trip organiser and he works directly for Adventure Alternative, running our Russian
expeditions for the past 12 years. He is extremely good at handling Russian logistics. Clearly things do
change during an expedition and this particular trip does require a higher level of acceptance for the
unexpected and unforeseen, however Sasha is highly respected in the region and will ensure that you
are well looked after.
We also employ other local guides on a need-for-trip basis, in order to ensure the correct ratio of
guides in the group. These people do change seasonally, as there is a pool to choose from. We also
will have an additional cook to help the guides prepare the meals.
Andrey Panin runs our office in Moscow and he can organise airport transfers (airport taxis will take
advantage of you) into the City, tours, guiding, show tickets, hotel bookings etc. Moscow can be very
expensive so it is best to seek his advice about where to stay, eat and any other questions you may
have. If you need Andrey or his services you should email him on [email protected] or his mobile is +7
9857645645 or office +7 495 670 7111.
Kit List –
Large rucksack
Day pack for walks and summit day (around 40 litres)
Sleeping bag, 3 season
Sleeping mat
Hiking clothes and travel clothes
Thermal base layer
Midlayer - can be fleece or warm shirts, jumper etc. Top and bottom.
Fleece jacket (heavyweight eg Polartec 300, full zip jacket better) or thick jacket.
Down jacket with hood (if you do not bring this you must be sure of extra warm fleece layers
Shell trousers and jacket with hood
Sunhat and wool or fleece hat (warm with ear flaps)
Balaclava or neck warmer
Trekking socks and thick socks for summit
Fleecy gloves and waterproof warm mitts
Headlamp (spare bulbs and batteries)
Glacier or sunglasses (100% UV)
Goggles (optional)
Leather walking boots
Plastic climbing boots (avoid tight fit with heavy socks) for use on snow
Gaiters
Climbing harness, medium sling and 2 locking karabiners
Crampons (step-ins or strap-ons, 10 point)
Trekking poles
Water bottles - 2 x 1 litres capacity (don’t use water bladders for summit day) and thermos
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Personal first aid kit, sunscreen and lipscreen (SPF 30 at least)
Dry bags
Cost – £1,390 per person. This is an all-inclusive cost with no kitties
The price includes - visa support papers, accommodation and food throughout the trip, all permits
and district registration papers, all local transport in the Elbrus region, full guide services, mountain
food and camping/ hut fees, cooking facilities and a cook on the mountain, saunas, porters for carrying
equipment to the mountain hut.
The price excludes - international flight to Moscow and Mineralnye Vody, travel insurance (estimated
£70), cost of visa to buy at Embassy (£35 if bought well in advance), drinks and personal expenses, kit
hire.
For rent from Adventure Alternative: Crampons - £15.00, walking axe - £15.00
For rent locally (paid in rubles, advance noticed and sizes required): Plastic boots: £5- £8 per day.
Visa – we provide you with a visa invitation letter which you then use to apply for your visa from your
local Consulate.
Booking – all bookings are done online through the AA website and we require you to put all
information on the site, including flights, next of kin, passport information and medical information.
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