12 foot telemaster kit

12 FOOT TELEMASTER KIT
TEL1800
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Circle
Brentwood TN 37027 USA
Phone 866-512-1444
TEL1800 -REV 1.16-R1
MADE IN THE USA
Keys to Building Success
1. Have a clean workspace of adequate size for the project.
o A work table 8’ long with a flat surface to pin to.
o An area other than the build table to stage the parts needed for the
specific steps.
2. Organize the part sheets in numerical order.
o There are 87 sheets of laser cut wood. You will save yourself tons of
grief by organizing them now.
o Do not remove parts from carrier sheets before you get to that
assembly step.
3. Inventory the Sheets (non laser cut), Sticks and Shapes and
Hardware
o We recommend that you use a small parts organizer box available at
your hardware store or Home Depot to separate your hardware.
o Separate the sticks by type but leave them rubberbanded until the
required step is reached.
4. Familiarize yourself with the part-labeling format, this makes
everything easier to understand.
o A=Aileron, i.e. AR-1 is Aileron Rib #1, AHP is Aileron Hinge Pocket.
o BB=Bomb Bay, i.e. BBF is Bomb Bay Frame, BBS is Bomb Bay Side
o E=Elevator, i.e. ELE is Elevator Leading Edge, EJ is Elevator Joiner
o F=Fuselage, i.e. FLB is Fuselage Longeron Bottom
o FL=Flap, i.e. RFB is Right Flap Base, RFLE is Right Flap Leading
Edge
o R=Rudder, i.e. RLE is Rudder Leading Edge
o S=Stabilizer, i.e. SLEP is Stabilizer Leading Edge Plate
o V=Vertical Fin,
5. Use the Parts Locator in this manual
o The locator tells you what the part is, which sheet it is located on, what
size that sheet is and what it is made of and how many are required.
6. Follow the instructions
o Doesn’t matter how many other airplanes you have built in the past,
the specifics to building this one are unique to this kit. Every effort has
been made to make this as enjoyable and easy as possible.
7. Refer to both the written instructions and the full size plans
o Reading the manual alone can sometimes be confusing. Combining
the written instructions with a review of the plans will clarify most
building steps quicker.
Most of all; take your time and enjoy the build; you will be rewarded with a great
flying giant model airplane. It will give you many years of service and will quickly
become your favorite plane to fly. The ease of assembly and disassembly make
this big bird a joy.
1
Terminology used in this manual.
With the precision of laser cut parts and notch and tab construction, the assembly and gluing sequence becomes very important. If components are glued in place too soon, they will not allow enough movement to install other components. When
instructed to install a part, do only that. You will be instructed to glue it when it is no longer required to be moveable.
Test Fit:
Test fit and install but do not glue.
Install and glue:
Permanently install the part.
Locate and prepare:
Find the parts requested, you can locate them faster using the parts locator pages at the back of this manual. The parts locator
will direct you to the correct sheet number as well as describe the part for easier identification. Most of the parts are supplied still in the sheet. These sheets are called the carrier sheet and the parts are held in the carrier sheet by small breaks in
the cutting line. These are called retainer breaks and in most cases the parts can be extricated by simply flexing the carrier
sheet and the retainer breaks will release the parts. In harder materials it may be necessary to use your hobby knife to sever
the retainer breaks to remove the parts. After removing the parts, a small nub may remain where the retainer break was, this
must be removed with a light swipe of sandpaper so it will not interfere with the parts fit.
Adhesives:
There are four primary types of adhesives recommended for constructing your model. They are CyanoAcrilate (referred to
as CA) in all viscosities, Aliphatic Resin Glue (carpenters glue), Polyurethane glue referred to as PU and Epoxy. CA is the
primary adhesive to use however there are times when it is not the best choice.
They are:
1. When you need more time to carefully position a part than a fast setting adhesive will allow.
2. When attaching plastic such as a windshield (Use Pacer formula 560 here).
3. When gluing laser cut aircraft grade plywood’s. The microwave set adhesives used in aircraft grade plywood does not
ablate well under a laser beam. As a result it burns the wood fibers near by leaving a charred edge. Fast setting CA adhesives
do not allow time for the adhesive to penetrate this layer of char and bond to the wood fiber underneath. Use a slower setting
adhesive such as Aliphatic Resin for maximum strength use Epoxy on aircraft grade ply parts. Lite Ply’s do not use this type
of adhesive and do not suffer from this problem.
Assembling the registration pins.
We will be using two types of pins; registration pins and push pins. Registration pins are assembled from two fiber blocks and two specially prepared
2-1/2” nails. Push pins will be used to temporarily secure parts to the building
board.
Locate the two pinning blocks supplied. Note that they have a counter sink on
one side. This is the side that the nail must be inserted from. Place the block
on a piece of scrap wood to prevent the fiber block from tearing out when the
nail is driven through. Now hammer the nail through just far enough to exit the
block. Next place the block up against the side of the bench or other heavy
object and finish installing the nail. When done, the nail head should be in the recess so the block can sit flat on the bench.
Repeat this process with the second pinning block assembly.
INVENTORY
Before beginning construction, check off each part and sheet from the inventory sheets at the back of this manual.
Organize the sheets in numerical order to speed up locating parts when called for.
2
While assembling your 12 foot Telemaster kit you will be instructed to use a technique called pinning.
Included with your kit are the pinning blocks assembled above but there are times when the parts require
being pinned for exact position but must remain flat on the bench. When this requirement is the case, we
will use several 1/8” wood dowels instead of the pinning blocks. See the examples below.
Above are two examples of the pinning process used in the assembly of your Telemaster kit. On the left
a small assembly using the pinning blocks. On the right is a larger part that must remain flat on the
bench when being glued so the dowel method is being used here.
The assembly sequence used in this manual starts with the stabilizer because it is probably most
like the construction most builders are familiar with. There is no reason that this sequence must be
followed. If you prefer to start with another section, feel free to do so however read through
the entire manual before beginning construction.
Stabilizer Assembly (Build on plans)
Notes:
The stabilizer will be assembled over the plan. Lay the plans over the work area and cover them with
waxed paper to protect the plans.
c 1 Locate the two pieces of the stabilizer leading edge
plate (SLEP) and glue them together at the splice
line to form the stabilizer leading edge plate.
c 2 Align a straight edge with the leading edge of the
stabilizer on the plans and pin securely in place.
Place the stabilizer leading edge plate up against
the straight edge and align it with the plans at the
center. Note that all remaining stabilizer components will key off of this part so it is important
that it be aligned accurately. Also note that the half
moon alignment key should be located to the right
side of center.
ALIGNMENT KEY
3
c 3 Locate the stabilizer plate parts SPA and SPB. Remove the four round donuts from the servo knockout areas and press a #6-32 T-nut into each donut
and for the moment put these aside.
c 4 Assemble the top and bottom spars by splicing two
1/8” x ½” x 36” basswood sticks for each. Use the
miter gauge to mark the angle.
c 5 Glue SPA to the leading edge plate SLEP.
c 6 Glue one of the 1/8” x ½” basswood spars to the aft
edge of SPA. Place the splice centered on SPA.
c 7 Glue SPB to the aft edge of the bottom spar.
Above, the blind nut buttons have been installed.
Note that the splice in the bottom spar is centered
c 8 Glue the two stabilizer trailing edge plates (STEP)
on the assembly,
to SPB. Temporarily use one of the S8 stabilizer
ribs at each tip to position the trailing edge plate
and pin in place. While you have them there, mark
the bottom spar for trimming on the outside edge
of S8.
c 9 Trim the bottom spar at each tip mark
c 10 Glue the four donuts containing the #6-32 T-nuts
into the holes indicated in SPA and SPB.
c 11 Install and glue the two-piece trailing edge (STE)
to the trailing edge plate (STEP).
c 12 Use a plane to add a slight bevel to the trailing
edge. Check your progress by temporarily installing a rib. You will remove very little material and
should be able to produce the correct angle with
only a few passes of the plane.
c 13 Install and glue all stabilizer ribs S1 through S8,
make sure they are fully seated in the leading and
trailing edges.
c 14 Install and glue the ¼” sheer webs, centered on the
bottom spar. Make sure the sheer webs next to ribs
S1 butt up against the S1 rib for extra support. For
the remaining bays, there will be a small space between the sheer webs and the ribs.
c 15 Install and glue the top 1/8” x ½” basswood spar.
c 16 Install and glue the ½” x ¾” x 48” leading edge.
4
The ribs and sheer webs have been installed and the
stabilizer is ready for installation of the top spar.
c 17 Install and glue the eight stabilizer hinge pockets
(SHP) into the slots provided in the trailing edge
and the trailing edge plate.
c 18 Install and glue a stabilizer hinge pocket cap
(SHPC) to each side of each hinge pocket (SHP).
c 19 Cut two 1” pieces of 1” triangle stock for each
stabilizer tip.
c 20 Plane the bottom edge of each stabilizer tip to a
45° angel. Glue The stabilizer tip to S8, use the
stabilizer tip gussets to set the correct angle.
c 21 From the 36” piece of 1” triangle stock, cut four 1”
pieces. Glue one of these pieces at the leading and
trailing edge to support the tip.
AHP, The elevator hinge pocket is being installed
here. Next the two hinge pocket caps (AHPC) will
glue onto each side of AHP. This will give you a
perfect hinge line every time.
c 22 Use the supplied leading edge template to shape
the leading edge of the stabilizer. The flight characteristics of your model are heavily dependent on
the shape of the leading edge of both the wing and
the stabilizer so get it as close as you can to the
template.
c 23 Plane and sand the stabilizer tips to contour with
rib S8.
c 24 Install one servo reinforcement frame (RSS) at
each servo opening.
This completes the stabilizer assembly.
Above, the stabilizer tip is installed with the tip gussets and a piece of 1” triangle stock at the leading
and trailing edge of the stabilizer.
RIGHT:
The photo shows the bottom of the stabilizer and
rudder assembly as it will be installed on the aircraft. You will note that the rudder linkage is offset, this is to provide clearance for installation and
removal of the assembly from the fuselage stabilizer mounting plate. The rudder horn (tinted here
for clarity) is cut to accommodate this offset. Note
the slight z-bend in the push rod link to maintain a
90° interface with the control elements.
5
Elevator Assembly (Build on plans)
The elevators are assembled on a 1/16” balsa base
sheet (EB).
c 1 Locate and assemble the two sections of the elevator leading edge (ELE).
c 2 Place a long straight edge over the plans aligned
with the elevator leading edge and secure with
pins. Place the two elevator base sheets over the
plans and secure with pins.
c 3 Glue the leading edge assembly to the two stabilizer plates.
c 4 Install and glue the basswood elevator joiner (EJ)
to this assembly.
c 5 Install and glue the elevator ribs E2 through E8.
Above, the elevator hinge pockets are being assemc 6 The elevator hinge pockets (EH#-A) must be as- bled on the pinning blocks. Above and to the right
sembled from three parts, one EH and two (EH#- of the pinning blocks is a completed elevator hinge
B). Use the registration pins to assemble the EH-1 pocket ready to be installed into the elevator.
through EH-4 assemblies.
c 7 Install and glue the EH assemblies.
c 8 Cut and glue two pieces of 1-1/4” trailing edge stock
to the trailing edge of each elevator half. Make sure
the 90° corner is down on the base sheet.
c 9 Cut two 5” long pieces of 1” triangle stock and
glue them to the stabilizer tips. Mark and trim them
close to the size required prior to gluing them on.
c 10 Install and glue the stabilizer control horn block
(EHB) between EH1 and E2 on the left stabilizer
section.
Contour the leading edge and the tips to match the
ribs. Bevel the leading edge for hinge clearance. If Above, the nearly completed elevator with the trailyou use a band saw to cut the bevels, you can use ing edge stock installed. The filler pieces at the
35° for the bottom bevel and 27° for the top bevel. center have to be planed to contour with the ribs.
Note that the elevator horn block (EHB) has been
installed on the left side of the stabilizer between E2
This completes the elevator assembly.
and the hinge pocket.
6
Vertical Fin Assembly (Not built on plans)
The vertical fin is effectively stick built, however the stick frame is all laminated up from three layers of
3/16” material. This 3-ply construction is far stronger then single stick construction, it also enables the
exact placement of the hinge pockets for a perfect hinge line. It is not built over the plans.
c 1 Locate the three sections of (V3), V3-A, V3-B and
V3-C. Place V3-A on the pins and laminate V3-B
to it. Snap off the dash cut joiner from V3-B and
then laminate V3-C to this assembly.
c 2 Locate and laminate the three sections of V1 together
c 3 Laminate the three sections of V-2 together.
c 4 Laminate the three sections of V4 together.
c 5 Now glue these assemblies together to form the
vertical fin frame.
c 6 Install and glue the horizontal ribs V5 and V6.
The vertical fin tail post being assembled from three
laminations of 3/16” balsa. The tab on V3-B is removed only after laminating it to V3-A.
c 7 Radius the tip and leading edge down to the flat at
the bottom. Leave the flat square, as it will butt up
against the aft edge of the dorsal fin, which will be
installed, on the fuselage.
All of vertical fin components prepared and ready
for assembly. The hinge pockets are incorporated
into the vertical fin post.
This concludes the assembly of the vertical fin.
Rudder Assembly (Not built on plans)
The rudder is built on a core sheet of 1/16” ply. We will first build one side of the rudder and then turn
it over and assemble the remaining side. It is important that you keep the core sheet flat on the building
board. This type of assembly is extremely warp resistant and for this reason if you build in a warp it will
be almost impossible to remove.
7
c 1 Using the registration pins in the upper holes,
install and glue one RHB to RC.
Place
the pins in the bottom two holes and temc 2
porarily install RF-A onto them. Use a pencil to
mark the outer edge of RF-A onto RC to indicate
where to apply glue and then remove RF-A.
c 3 Apply glue to RC and then install RF-A, use ample
glue around the landing gear stub.
c 4 Install and glue RF-B over RF-A, once again use
ample glue around the landing gear stub.
c 5 Remove the rudder assembly from the pins and
carefully align RF-C with the elevator opening and
glue in place. The dash cut material can be removed
once it is glued in place.
Viewed from the front you can see the rudder core
sandwiched in between the rudder leading edge.
The leading edge will be trimmed at the elevator
opening after sheeting.
c 6 Install and glue RLE to RC.
c 7 Install the rudder ribs R1 through R6.
c 8 Install the filler rib R7 at the tip aligned with the
tip.
c 9 Install the rudder pocket hinge caps (RHC) at
each hinge pocket.
All that remains is to sheet the top of this rudder asYou are ready to install the rudder skin however be- sembly. The tail wheel strut will be Epoxied into the
c 10 fore doing so, test fit the rudder skin using the two pocket provided after covering and the ply rudder
register pin holes and the two 1/8” dowels at each cap will be Epoxyed to the bottom.
end of the rudder. You will place the pins into the
assembly from the top. You will need to sand RF-C
slightly to get it to contour with the ribs. When you
are satisfied with the fit, glue the rudder skin to the
rudder assembly. Weight the entire assembly flat on
the bench until cured.
c 11 Flip the rudder assembly over and repeat the above
steps to install the remaining components on the
other side of the rudder.
c 12
When installing the remaining rudder skin, do not
weight the assembly down. Instead, use clamps or
cloths pins to hold the sheeting into contact with
the rudder assembly. This will prevent warping the
surface.
c 13
Cut the leading edge material out from the elevator
opening.
c 14
Bevel the leading edge for clearance.
c 15 The tail wheel gear will be installed with Epoxy
after the assembly has been covered.
8
Fuselage Assembly (Not built on plans)
From the cabin area forward, the fuselage is constructed of two plies of 3/16” balsa. The inner ply is made up of
three pieces containing all the notches for the internal components plus the pin registration holes for assembly.
The outer ply, also made up of three pieces containing the registration holes and those required for the wing attachment.
The illustration below shows the inner laminate parts (top) and the outer laminate parts (bottom). The longerons
are not laminated but supplied in 3/8” balsa. Fuselage side, inner parts A, B and C are assembled together and then
Fuselage side, outer A, B and C are assembled. The two assemblies are then laminated using the pin system.
FLT-C
FLT-D
FS-I-A
FS-I-B
FLB-A
FS-I-C
FLB-B
EXPLODED VIEW OF INNER LAMINATE AND TOP AND BOTTOM LONGERONS
FS-O-C
FS-O-B
FS-O-A
VIEW OF OUTER LAMINATE WITH TOP AND BOTTOM LONGERONS
c 1 Locate and prepare the three inner sections that make up the inner ply for each side, FS-I-A, FS-I-B and
FS-I-C. Remove any nubs left by the retainer breaks so they fit tightly together. Use thick CA to glue FSI-A to FS-I-B and then glue FS-I-C to this assembly. From this point forward, this will be considered one
part, FS-I.
c 2 Locate and prepare the three outer sections that make up the outer ply of each side, FS-O-A, FS-O-B and
FS-O-C. Remove any nubs that may have been left by the retainer breaks and then glue FS-O-A to FS-O-B,
then glue FS-O-C to this assembly. From this point forward this will be considered one part, FS-O.
c 3 Lightly sand out any bumps or lumps left from the glue up. Do not be concerned about any slight differences in material thickness. To prevent building two left or two right sides, place the two outer plies (FSO) on the bench mirroring each other and mark the side that is up. You will want this side up when you
perform the next step.
c 4 The best adhesive for this step is a Polyurethane glue such as Gorilla Glue. Aliphatic resin glue can cause
the assembly to warp and it a little too large of an area to spread CA. Place one of the outer plies on the
bench with the marked side up and apply polyurethane glue to the whole side. Use a piece of scrap plywood as a spatula to spread the glue out into a thin layer along the outer edges so the glue will not foam
out the edges. Do not allow glue to get into the register pinholes. Place one of the inner plies over this
and using 1/8” dowels in the pinning holes, press the two together. Repeat this process for the remaining
side and then stack the two on the bench using the registration pins to insure alignment and a piece of
waxed paper between to prevent them from bonding together. Now weight the entire assembly down so
it is flat on the bench and let it cure. After they have cured, clean out any glue that has foamed into the
notches. The parts must be able to bottom in the notches to fit correctly.
9
c 5 Locate and assemble the top fuselage stringer (FLT-B & FLT-C). Glue them together at the splice line.
Remove all the knockouts from FLT-C.
c 6 Locate and assemble the bottom stringer (FLB-A & FLB-B). Remove all the knockouts from FLB-B. Glue
them together at the splice line.
c 7 Test fit a top fuselage longeron to one of the fuselage side assemblies. Remove anything that prevents a
nice tight fit and then glue the longeron to the fuselage side. Repeat this process for the remaining side.
c 8 Test fit a bottom fuselage longeron (FLB) to one of the fuselage sides and remove anything that prevents
a nice tight fit, then glue the bottom longeron to the fuselage side assembly and then glue both longerons
together at the tail.
c 9 The blind nut that will hold the wing capture bolt
must be secured so it cannot be dislodged if it is impacted while installing the wing. To that end, it is
sandwiched into a plywood ring assembly and then
glued into the fuselage side with Epoxy. Locate the
four 1/4” lite ply wing capture nut plates (WCNP)
and install a #8-32 blind nut into each one. Make
sure the nut is inserted all the way.
Onto these assemblies, glue a 1/32” ply spacer
c 10 (WCNS), this is placed on the flange side of the
assembly.
c 11 Add the wing capture nut cap (WCNC) to the top
of the spacer.
c 12 Use only Epoxy for this step and install and glue
the four nut plates into the holes provided in the At the top of the photo are three capture bolt nut
top longeron. Make sure WCMP, the lite ply side assemblies ready to be installed into the fuselage.
is facing out.
Below that are the three components that make up
the assembly with the #8-32 blind nut installed in
c 13 Next we must pre-assemble the wing attach anti- WCNP.
pivot mechanism. Locate the wing latch mounting
plate (WLM) and install four #4-40 blind nuts into
it from the unlabeled side.
c 14 Locate and prepare the polycarbonate anti-pivot
latches. There is a left and a right. Before removing
the protective film, sand the edges to remove any
burrs left from cutting. These latches must be free
to move smoothly over the latch mount plate. Place
the right latch onto the latch mount and retain it
with two #4-40 x 1/2” socket head bolts and one
flat washer. Screw these down only finger tight.
All the components for the wing anti-pivot autocapture mechanism are shown. The left plastic
capture plate (lower left) has not been deburred or
peeled while the right capture plate is ready for assembly.
10
c 15 Install the spring onto the opening in the center of
the wing latch mount and then install the left antipivot latch and secure with two #4-40 socket head
bolts and flat washers. Repeat this process for the
right latch plate.
c 16 After snugging all four bolts up finger tight, back
each one off 1/2 turn and test that each anti-pivot
latch moves freely.
Lock
each bolt at this location with a jamb nut
c 17
tightened down against the blind nut from the back
and test the action of the anti-pivot pins again.
The completed anti-pivot capture assembly as it will
appear in the finished aircraft. Before installing
c 18 Now that you have assembled this mechanism and WLM into the fuselage, the unit should be disassee how it must work, you will need to disassemble sembled to prevent any glue from getting into the
it before installing WLM into the fuselage.
moving components. They must be able to move
freely with no binding.
c 19 The firewall is laminated up from three 1/8” ply
sections, F1-A, F1-B and F1-C. Note that if you
plan to use gas or glow power you can leave the
knockouts in the firewall parts or use only the
knockouts you want and use the center lines to
drill your own mounting holes. Place the registration pins in the 1/8” holes located diagonally from
each other in toward the corners of F1-A with the
unlabeled side up.
c 20 Apply glue to the facing side of F1-B and slide it
down the pins into contact with F1-A. Repeat this
procedure with F1-C and put the assembly aside to
cure under weight to insure it cures perfectly flat.
Install four #8-32 blind nuts into the firewall.
LEFT SIDE
c 21 Install and glue the wing left bar brace (WBB) to
the inside of the left fuselage side. Use the register Additional support for the wing bar is supplied by
holes and some 1/8” doweling to place it. When the the wing brace being installed here using the dowel
glue has cured, trim the dowels flush.
pinning method. Use a liberal application of glue
for this installation.
c 22 On the right side of the fuselage, WBB also contains the wing bar latch spring assembly. Place
WBB-R on the registration pins and install and
glue WBB-A. Form the spring and install it into
Right side WBB stack order
the slot provided in WBB-A. Glue WBB-B to this
assembly rendering the spring captive in the asRetainer spring,
sembly. This assembly can now be installed onto
bend from 1/16”
the right side of the fuselage in the same manner as
wire.
the left side was.
Finished assembly
WBB RIGHT SIDE ASSEMBLY
11
c 23 Once again using the dowel pin registration method, Install and glue one Fuselage wing base rib
(FWB) to the outside of each fuselage section.
When the adhesive has cured, trim and sand the
dowels flush.
c 24 The landing gear mount is supplied in three sections that will be laminated together. Locate LGMA, LGM-B and LGM-C. Place two short sections
of dowel into the holes provided in LGM-C. Apply glue to the facing side of LGM-B and glue the
two together. Temporarily install LGM-A onto the
pins and mark a pencil line onto LGM-B along the
aft edge of LGM-A. You do not want glue in this
area.
c 25 Remove LGM-A from the pins. Apply glue to
LGM-B, avoiding the area just marked and then
install LGM-A.
Assembly of the landing gear plate utilizing the
dowel pinning method. The #8-32 blind nuts will be
installed after the assembly is laminated.
c 26 Install four #8-32 blind nuts into the holes provided from the LGM-C side.
c 27
In the next step you will begin assembling the actual fuselage. You will need the left fuselage side
(FS), the firewall (F1), Former F2, The fuselage
battery plate (FBP), the wing latch mount you assembled earlier and the forward hatch latch plate
(HLP). The combination of F1, F2 and FBP will
automatically square the fuselage sides.
c 28 Install and glue a 3/8” magnet into the hole in HLP.
The magnet should be flush with the top of HLP.
c 29 Lay the left fuselage side on the bench with the inside up and the top facing you. Position it so the fuselage wing base is extended out over the edge of
the bench and the side is laying flat on the bench.
Temporarily test fit F1, FBP and F2.
12
Basic fuselage assembly is underway with the installation of the firewall assembly, F2, the battery
plate and HLP. If all tabs are bottomed in there respective notches, this assembly will automatically
square the fuselage sides.
c 30 Remove F1, FBP and F2 and apply glue to all interfacing parts. This is a good fit for aliphatic resin
or slow cure Epoxy to allow plenty of time to apply
and position the parts. Weight this assembly down
to make sure all parts are bottomed in their slots.
Also that F1 and F2 are fully engaged in FBP.
c 31 Install and glue F3. Use the supplied square to insure that it is square to the fuselage side.
c 32
When the glue has cured, place the right fuselage
side on the bench with the inside up and the top
facing you. Test fit the assembly to it and when
satisfied with the fit, remove it and apply glue to
all interfacing parts. Before installing the assembly, install but do not glue the wing latch mount.
This must be installed with the labeled side facing
aft. The blind nuts will face forward. Install the left
side assembly to the right side and again, weigh
the assembly down until cured.
c 33 Cut two 2-1/4” pieces of 3/8” triangle stock. Place
it on the WLM and the fuselage and apply thin CA.
We need this attached to the fuselage but we do not
want any glue to get on the backside of WLM.
The supplied Building Square is used to install former F3 square to the fuselage side.
NT
FRO
c 34 Cut two 6-1/2” pieces of 3/4” triangle stock and
glue it to the back of the firewall and the fuselage
sides for additional support for the firewall.
c 35 Install and glue the landing gear mount assembly.
Install and glue the two landing gear gussets.
Use glue sparingly on WLM to avoid getting glue
on the aft side.
13
c 36 Install and glue the bomb bay screw rails (BSR).
c 37 From a 1” x 4” sheet of balsa, cut four 7” pieces to
sheet the the forward bottom of the fuselage. Glue
this sheeting in place.
c 38 Install and glue the fuselage stabilizer plate (FSP)
and F8. You will need to install both of these components at the same time. Note the notches in the
top and bottom stringers to position F8. Make sure
the stringer tabs are fully engaged in the notches in
FSP and weight the assembly down to insure both
fuselage sides are flat on the bench.
c 39 Flip the assembly over and install and glue the
lower fuselage tail piece (FLT) in place. Keep it
c 40 Cut four pieces of 1/8” x 1/4” basswood to 6-7/8”
long. You will install these in the slots provided at
the wing bar opening. They will serve to guide the
wing bar when installed. Test fit these pieces with Clamps hold the bomb bay screw rails tightly to the
the wing bar and sand as necessary to get a free fit inside of the fuselage assembly until the glue has
to the wing bar and then glue all four in place.
cured.
c 41 Install and glue formers F4, F5, F6 and F7 in that
order. Note the notch in each stringer for exact position. Place one side of the former into the notches
and then tip the remaining side into position and
clamp until the glue has cured. Check frequently
that the fuselage remains straight.
c 42 It’s time to re-install the wing anti-pivot hardware
and adjust it. Place the right hand latch in position
and secure with two #4-40 bolts and flat washers.
Snug them down finger tight and then back them
off one half turn While holding the bolt in this
position, install a jamb nut on the back side and
tighten it down against the blind nut. After you are Above, the wing bar is installed to test the fit of the
satisfied with the action, put a drop of thread lock 1/8” x 1/4” basswood bar guides. The guides should
onto each jamb nut.
be snug but not tight. Sand as required when installing to get the right thickness.
RIGHT:
The completed anti pivot capture mechanism installed in the fuselage. Make sure the action is
adjusted before covering the fuselage as you will
have very limited access to it after that,
14
c 43 Install and glue two 3/8” x 3/4” x 48” stringers in
the top of formers F3 thru F8. Install the center
stringer first. Note that the outer stringer must be
tapered at the tail. The stringers should be glued to
each former as well as each corner stringer. These
stringers will stand 1/16” proud of formers F4
c 44 Repeat the previous step on the bottom of the fuselage.
c 45 Install the forward hatch rail (HR) into the forward
hatch (HA). Test fit these into the holes provided in
the firewall. Note that these are cut for a snug fit so
you may have to do some sanding to get them to
seat neatly in the firewall. Then install and glue a
3/8” magnet into the hole in HA.
1/2” TRIANGLE
STOCK
1” TRIANGLE
STOCK
c 46 Cut eight 6-7/8” long pieces of 1/4” square balsa To complete the windshield, the 1” triangle stock
and one 6-7/8” long piece of 1/4” square bass- will be glued to the hatch.
wood. Install one balsa piece in the first notch located at the top of the windshield. Install a balsa
stick in the next three notches. In the fifth notch,
install the basswood stick; this will retain the top
hatch. Install the remaining balsa sticks in the last
four notches.
c 47 Install and glue a piece of 1/4” triangle stock
6-7/8” long into the notch provided at the bottom
of the windshield area.
c 48 With the front hatch in place, install and glue a 1”
piece of 1” triangle stock 6-7/8” long to the hatch.
Butt this piece up against the piece of 1/2” triangle
stock already attached to the fuselage.
c 49
Install and glue the windshield (WS).
c 50 Cut two pieces of 1/4” square basswood 6” long.
Assemble the top hatch by gluing the top hatch
rails (THR) into the top hatch (TH). Install the
two 1/4” basswood sticks into the notches provid- Here the top hatch rails have been added and now
ed in THR at the front and the back. Glue these to the top hatch magnet mounting plate is being inTH. Note that the rails are slightly curved. Make
stalled using the dowel pins.
sure TH conforms to this curve.
c 51 Use two sections of 1/8” dowel to pin and glue
THL to TH. Trim the dowels flush when the glue
has cured. Install the top hatch handle (THH) into
the slot provided. Install and glue a 3/8” magnet
into the hole in THL.
c 52 Install the four #8-32 x 1-1/2” wing catch bolts
with a standard nut and a Ny-Lock nut as shown
on the plans.
c 53
Install and glue the top hatch magnet mounting
plate (THMMP). Install and glue a 3/8” magnet in
the hole in THMMP.
c 54 Sheet the remainder of the over cabin area with
1/8” balsa. You will need four pieces of 1/8” x 4”
balsa cut 6-7/8” long
15
Fuselage assembly is almost done with only the top sheeting left to install. The wing catch bolts have been installed with a standard nut (jamb nut) and a Ny-Lock nut to act as a grip for turning when adjusting the depth.
Once the proper depth has been determined, the jamb nut will lock the catch bolt in place.
Bomb Bay Assembly (Not built on plans)
The bomb bay is an option on the Telemaster that most pilots want however if you do not plan on using it for this
purpose you may omit the assembly of the bomb bay and just close in the opening with the bomb bay frame (BBF)
with all the knock outs still in it.
The bomb bay is designed to allow two separate drops per load by opening only half of the bomb bay at a time. A
divider separates the cargo for each door. You can omit the divider if you want all the cargo to drop at once.
c 1 Locate and prepare the bomb bay frame (BBF).
Note that the end of BBF with the two elongated
holes is the front of BBF, lay this part on the bench
with the labeled side down.
c 2 Locate and prepare the two bomb bay sides (BBS)
and the bomb bay partition (BBP) and the front and
back, (BBF) and (BBB). Note that BBS and BBP
are slightly wider at one end. The wider end is the
front and should face forward when assembled.
c 3 Lay the bomb bay sides flat with the toothed
sides facing each other and mark the side that is
facing up, INSIDE.
c 4 Install a dowel pin in the holes provided with the
inside facing up.
16
One of the bomb bay walls with the hinge plate
(BBWHP) installed using the dowels pins and next
the bomb bay wall hatch plate cover (BBWHPC)
will be installed.
c 5 Test fit the bomb bay wall hinge pocket (BBWHP)
to the bomb bay side. When satisfied with the fit,
glue BBWHP to BBS.
c 6 Glue the Bombay wall hinge pocket cap (BBWHPC) over BBWHP. Repeat this operation for the
remaining side.
c 7 All four sides and the partition will be assembled at
the same time; the easiest way to do this is to use a
slow setting adhesive such as aliphatic resin. Apply
glue to the bottom of the bomb bay sides, BBS and
install. Then apply glue to the front and install this
onto the sides and secure with masking tape. Then
apply glue to the back BBB, first install the divider
BBP and then the back BBB and secure with mask- BBL-A has been installed and the the tabs and
ing tape. Set this assembly aside to cure.
center section are removed as shown.
c 8 Cut two 1” lengths of 1/8” dowel and glue them
into the two 1/8” holes at the front of BF.
Note that part BBL has two tabs and a center secc 9 tion that is retained by these tabs. Do not remove
the tabs or the center section until after BBL has
been glued to BF. Apply glue to the outer sections
of BBL-A and glue it onto BF using the registration dowels installed earlier, then remove the two
tabs and the center section.
c 10 Glue BB-B to BB-A using the pins. Note the area
marked NO GLUE; avoid getting any glue in this
area.
c 11 Slide the Polycarbonate latch plate into the slot under BB-B with the flat end facing forward. Install
a #4-40 x 1” bolt into the hole closest to the center
of the latch plate from the bottom and secure with
a #4-40 Ny-Lock nut. Snug it up but do not over
tighten it.
The spring action for the bomb bay latch is supplied by this 3-3/8” piece of .02” music wire captive
in BBL-C and sandwiched in between BBL-B and
BBL-D.
BBL-C
SPRING
The illustration at the right shows the stack order
of the hatch latch components.
BBL-B
BBL-A
HLT
BBF
17
c 12Install a 3-3/8” piece of .02” music wire into the
opening (spring well) in BB-B. The wire must fit
freely without binding at the ends and will ride on
the front of the nut just installed. Test this assembly
to make sure it moves freely and returns to the aft
position by the spring.
c 13 Install and glue BB-C onto BB-B taking care not
to get glue into the spring well area.
c 14
c 15
Install the brass eyelet into the hole in the bomb
bay servo mount (BBSM). The eyelet should be
installed from the side that will face forward.
The bomb bay door catch (BBDC) installed on
the completed bomb bay doors. The doors are now
ready for installation into the bomb bay.
Glue BBSM to BBF with the eyelet facing forward.
c 16 Install a servo into BBSM, with the control arm
facing forward.
c 17
c 18
Use a piece of strong thread such as upholstery
thread to link the servo arm with the #4-40 bolt
that is protruding through BBL-C. CA it to the bolt
just above the nut and then pas it through the eyelet
and connect it to the servo arm.
Locate the bomb bay door parts, BBD-A, BBD-B
and BBD-C.
c 19 Note that that BBD-A has notches at one end, this
will be the front and of the bomb bay. Place BBDA on the register pins with the labeled side up.
Glue BBD-B to BBD-A.
c 20 Test fit BBD-B to BBD-A, note that the notch in
BBD-B must align with the notch on BBD-A. Then
glue BBD-B to BBD-A.
c 21 Tests fit BBD-C to the assembly and when satisfied
with the orientation, glue BBD-C to the assembly.
Once again note that the notch in BBD-C must line
up with the notch in the assembly. Assemble the
remaining bomb bay door in the same manner.
c 22 Install and glue a bomb bay door catch (BBDC) on
each door.
c 23 Temporarily install three medium Robart Hinge
Pins in each door and then install the doors to the
bomb bay assembly.
c 24 Install the bomb bay assembly with ten #2 x 1/2”
sheet metal screws.
18
The completed latch mechanism allowing a two
stage drop as well as manually opening the hatch
regardless of servo position. The bomb bay loads
through the top hatch.
Wing assembly (Build over plans)
The wing is assembled over the plans. You will be working with a structure that is longer then some of
the stock materials and so you will need to splice some sticks. We recommend that you splice all the
materials at the same time.
c 1 Splice the following 36” lengths of material; this
will cover both wing halves. You will need 12 of
the 1/2” x 1/2” pieces, 8 of the 1/4” x 1/2” pieces
and 8 of the 1/2” x 1” pieces. Assemble the supplied miter gage by gluing a piece of scrap 1/4
square balsa to the edge indicated. Use the miter
gauge to mark half of the sticks. Stack them two
at a time and cut them in pairs and keep the pairs
together so they match when gluing.
c 2 The leading edge plate is supplied in two pieces,
LEP-A and LEP-B. Glue these together at the
splice line to form LEP.
c 3 The trailing edge plate is also supplied in two sections, TEM-A and TEP-B. Glue these together at
the splice line to form TEP.
c 4 Place right wing plans on the workbench and
cover them with waxed paper.
Splicing all the sticks at once will save time. After
marking and cutting the pairs, they are glued up
and two pins are used to prevent movement. Masking tape is the added to hold the two part securely
together until cured.
c 5 The trailing edge is supplied in four sections that
must first be assembled and the laminated to each
other. Locate and glue TEA-1 and TEA-2 at the
splice line.
W1 and W1-A are assembled using the pining system. Ribs W2, W3 and W4 are assembled in the
c 7 Orient the TEA assembly so it is in the correct ori- same manner.
entation with the wing plan. The TEA-1 label is at
the root, the label may be on the top or bottom depending on which wing panel you are working on.
Place a 1” length of 1/8” dowel in each of the three
1/8” holes provided in the TEA assembly. Apply
aliphatic resin glue to the TEA assembly and then
install the TEB assembly onto the pins. TEA and
TEB must be flush on the bottom except for the
tabs on TEA. You will note that TEB will step back
1/16” at the top, this is correct. Make sure the assembly is straight and weight the assembly down
until cured. Note that TEA1 must be on the leading
edge side of the trailing edge assembly.
c 6 Locate and glue TEB-1 and TEB-2.
c 8 Place a four-foot straight edge along the aft edge of
LEP over the plans and pin securely in place.
The trailing edge assemblies are laminated using
three 1/8” pinning dowels. The assembly is aligned
with the straight edge to insure it is straight,
19
c 9 Align LEP with the plans at the W1 and aligned
with the straight edge. Use a pin in between each
bay to secure LEP firmly in place. Make sure it is
straight, as all remaining wing components will
key off of LEP. Note that paper plans will stretch
and shrink with temperature and humidity so don’t
be concerned if the notches do not line up toward
the tip. The parts are correct.
c 10 Install and glue the trailing edge assembly (TE) to
the trailing edger plate TEP.
c 11 Wing ribs W1, W2, W3 and W4 require some pre- The trailing edge sections are first assembled and
assembly before installing into the wing. Locate
then laminated.
W1 and W1-A, W2 and W2-A, W3 and W3-A and
W4 and W4-A.
c 12 When assembling these ribs make certain that you
have the A part on the wing tip side of the rib. The
wing bar will not install if they are installed on the
wrong side due to the dihedral offsets used.
c 13 Install and glue the wing dihedral web parts
WDW-A and WDW-B to W1. Use the building
square to insure that they are installed at 90° to
W1.
c 14 Position the trailing edge plate (TEP) by temporarily placing the root rib (W1) and the tip rib (W16)
in the leading edge plate. Pin TEP at the root and
tip and then remove the ribs.
c 15 Use the miter gauge to mark and sand the dihedral angle into the ends of two of the 1/2” square
sticks you spliced together earlier.
c 16 Use Epoxy to glue the root rib (W1) to the LEP and The trailing edge assembly is glued to the trailing
TEP. Insure that both WDW-A and WDW-B are edge plate and a piece of 1/4” triangle stock is addflat on the building board, as they will set the exact dihedral. Make sure that W1 is aligned exactly
with the plans.
c 17 Use Epoxy to glue the two 1/2” square balsa
sticks you prepared earlier to W1, one to the
bottom forward spar location and one to the aft
bottom spar location. Do not glue the aft spar to
TEP; this will be done after all the ribs have
been installed.
c 18 Install and glue a flap hinge pocket (FHP) at each
of the five hinge point locations. Use a large hinge
point through the hole in the trailing edge to insure
correct alignment of the hinge pocket.
c 19 Install and glue a flap hinge pocket cap on top of
each of the five hinge pockets just installed.
20
The dihedral of the W1 assembly is set by WDW-A
and WDW-B shown here braces with triangle stock.
Use the building square to insure a 90° angle.
c 20 The aileron hinge pockets (AHP) are a round donut shaped part, use the 7/32” brass tube as a temporary alignment tool and install and glue two of
these parts to each of the five aileron hinge point
locations.
Install and glue rib W2. To insure correct alignc 21 ment of WDW-A and WDW-B, use some scrap
1/2” material in the top spar notches to act as a
surrogate spar. When the glue has cured, remove
the 1/2” material. IMPORTANT when installing any of these wing components, make certain
that all parts are fully bottomed in there respective
notches.
c 22
Moving down the wing, install and glue ribs W3
through W8. Insure that all ribs are fully engaged
in there appropriate slots in LEP and TEP.
c 23
Refer to Detail B on the right wing plan sheet
(#4) and cut four 4” lengths of .047” music wire.
Smooth the ends and the then bend a 1/8” leg 90°
on one end of all four pieces. Measure down from
the bend 3/8” and make another 90° bend. Two
with the 1/8” leg facing left and two with the 1/8”
leg facing right. Measure 3-3/8” from this bend
and make another bend in the same direction as
the last bend slightly over 90°. Lay these springs
on a flat surface and check that they lay perfectly
flat. If not, twist them until they do.
c 24 Refer to detail C on the plans sheet and install a
#6-32 x 5/8” bolt, a #6 x 5/32” spacer, flat washer
and a Ny-Lock nut on both WASMP and WFSMP.
c 25 Install one of the springs with the short leg through
the slot on the post end and with the short leg facing away from the post. Push the other end through
the hole provided and add one of the ply doubler
washers on the top for additional support. If the
spring does not snap back when pushed down
and released, remove it and add to the bend at the
mounting end. When satisfied, glue the spring permanently in place.
Some 1/2” scrap is used as a temporary spar to keep
WDW-A and WDW-B aligned correctly.
PEG
W10
WFSMP
W9
SPRING
This assembly of W9 and W10 provides a hard point
for the wing struts as well as a hand hold foe transporting this large wing. Install the strut posts and
catch springs before installing WASMP and WFSMP into the W9-W10 assembly.
c 26 Using the building square to insure a 90°, glue
WSM-1 to W9 on the outboard side of W9.
c 27 Loose fit WFSMP into WSM-1 and then install
and glue WSM-2 onto this assembly. Now glue
WFSMP to both WSM-1 and WSM-2.
c 28
Install and glue WSM-3 into the notches provided
in W9.
c 29
Loose fit WASMP into WSM-3 and then install and
glue WSM-4 to this assembly. Now glue WASMP
to both WSM-3 and WSM-4.
Above left is an aileron hinge pocket and on the
right is a flap hinge pocket. The aileron hinges require a 7/32” brass tube extension to support the
offset pivot point.
21
c 30 Install and glue W10 to this assembly
c 31 Install and glue the W9-W10 assembly into the
wing.
c 32 Install and glue W8-A, refer to the plans and note
that there is a gap between W8 and W8-A.
c 33 Install and glue the remaining ribs, W11 through
W16.
c 34 Install a flap hinge pocket cap (FHPC) on top of
each flap hinge pocket (FHP).
c 35 The aileron hinge pockets are round doughnut
shaped pieces cut from 1/4” basswood. Glue two
of these on the inside of the trailing edge at each of
the aileron hinge holes.
The W9/W10 assembly as seen from the top ready
for installation into the wing. Visible are the NyLock nuts with the plywood reinforcing washers
and the strut retainer springs.
c 36 Install and glue the aft top spar from one of the
½1/2 x 1/2” pieces you assembled earlier. After the
glue has cured, plane the aft top spar to contour
with the ribs.
c 37 Install and glue the forward top spar with one of
the 1/2” x 1” sticks you spliced earlier. Weight
this assembly down until cured; the wing must be
flat on the building board.
c 38 Install and glue a piece of 1/4” triangle stock in the
corner of the aft side if the trailing edge and the
trailing edge plate in the aileron bay area.
c 39 Use the trailing edge planeing template to plane the
top of the trailing edge to contour with the ribs.
c 40 The trailing edge top plate is supplied in two sections that must be assembled with a finger joint. A flap hinge pocket is installed awaiting a plywood
Locate the two sections of TETP and assemble hinge pocket cap. In the background are two ailethem, install TETP to the trailing edge of wing.
ron hinge pocket doughnuts awaiting installation.
c 41 Glue a piece 3/32” x 1/2” balsa to TEP at the front
of the ribs. This will raise the leading edge just
enough to match the leading edge of the ribs.
c 42 Glue on the leading edge, one of the 1/2” x 1”
sticks that you spliced earlier. Glue it to the 3/32”
stick you just installed and to each rib. Use Epoxy
at the root rib.
c 43 Install and glue the two 1/4” x 1/2” turbulator strips
at the leading edge.
c 44 Trim spars and turbulator strips flush with the outside of W-16.
c 45 The wing tip (LWT & RWT) is supplied in two The wing tip installed with gussets and 1” triangle
pieces. Locate the wing tip for the panel you are stock for fill and support at the leading and trailing
building and assemble it.
edges.
22
c 46 Plane a 45° angle on the bottom of the wing tip to create glue land between the tip and the tip rib. Glue the
wing tip on and use the wing tip gussets WTG-1 through WTG-5 to set the angle and provide support.
c 47 Cut five pieces of 3/8” triangle stock 2” long and install and glue to the tip and W16 between the gussets
for additional support.
c 48 Cut a 1” and a 6-1/4” long piece of 1” triangle stock and glue the 1” piece at the leading edge to W16 and
the tip. Glue the 6-1/4” piece at the trailing edge. Note it will save you some labor if you mark the triangle
stock and remove the bulk of the excess before you glue it in place.
c 49 Install and glue all the diagonal ribs. Use a 3/8” spacer as shown to keep the rib vertical and correctly
positioned.
c 50 Install and glue the aft spar sheer webs. Install these on the back of the spar and butt each sheer web up
against the outboard ribs for extra support.
c 51 Install and glue the sheer webs on the main spar.
Glue these to the front of the spar and butt them up
against the outboard ribs for extra support.
c 52 Cut four pieces of 3/16” x 3/8” basswood to 4-5/8”
long and glue them into the deeper slots in W4 &
W5 and in W11 and W12. These will provide more
screw support for the servos.
c 53 Install and glue the right flap servo mount to W4
& W5. Note that the flap servo opening is offset
to allow for correct servo action, the left flap servo
mount will be offset to the other side. The aileron
servos are centered.
c 54 Cut four pieces of 1/8” x 1/4” basswood to 131/2” long. These must be installed in the notches
provided by the wing bar slot. These will serve to
guide the wing bar when it is being inserted into
the wing. Test fit each one with the wing bar before
gluing it in place.
Use the supplied template when shaping the wing
leading edge.
c 55 Install the wing strut mount caps (WSMC) between
W9 and w10. The holes in WSMC should remain
open after covering for finger holes. This is a large
wing and without adequate hard points it can be
unmanageable to handle. Handle with wing by the
finger holes and the root or the finger holes and the
tip.
c 56 Use the supplied template to shape the leading
edge. The shape of the leading edge will have a
significant affect on the flying qualities of any
wing so match the leading edge template as close
as possible.
c 57 There are a lot of glue joints on this wing; it is a
good idea to revisit all of the glue joints with a
bead of aliphatic resin glue before covering.
This concludes the basic wing assembly.
When covering your Telemaster, keep these two
finger holes open for handling and the strut peg
openings for access when attaching the strut assemblies.
23
Aileron Assembly (Not built on plans)
The ailerons are assembled on a 1/16” base sheet; the aileron base sheet and the aileron leading edge are
mirrored to produce a left and a right aileron. Where parts are handed, they will be labeled starting with an
L or and R to differentiate between them. We will start by assembling the RIGHT aileron first. The ailerons
are not built over the plans.
c 1 Locate the right aileron base (RAB), clear all the
notches and pin it to the workbench over waxed
paper. This does not need to be over the plans,
place it on the bench with the labeled side up.
c 2
Glue a 1/8” x 1” x 36” sheet to the trailing edge of
RAB. The trailing edge is the edge with the notches farthest from it. Keep it flat until the glue has
cured.
c 3 Once again, pin the right base assembly to the
workbench to stabilize it for the remainder of the
assembly.
c 4 Locate one 1/8” x 1/4” x 36” basswood stick and
two 1/8” x 1/4” x 36” balsa sticks.
c 5 Place but do not glue the end rib (AR-1) in place
and install the basswood stick in the notch at the
bottom center of AR-1.
c 6
The aileron end rib tacked in place with the 1/8”
x 1/4” basswood stringer in place. The 1/8” x 1/4”
balsa stringers at the lead edge are loose fit for
now.
Place the two balsa sticks in the notches provided
at the bottom leading edge of AR-1. These will
provide glue land for the leading edge and bottom
sheeting when installed later. Tack glue AR-1 to
RAB, do not get glue on the bottom basswood or
balsa sticks. Use the supplied square to insure that
AR-1 is perfectly perpendicular to RAB.
c 7 Install the right end rib (AR-9) in the same manner.
c 8 Install and tack glue all remaining ribs, AR-2
through AR-8 to RAB only.
c 9 The aileron hinge pockets are composed of a 3/16”
balsa hinge pocket rib (AHP-A) and two 1/16” ply
caps (AHP-B). Use the registration pins to assemble all five of these components. First place one
AHP-B on the pins. Then glue the AHP-A to it and
finally install and glue the remaining AHP-B to the
top of this assembly. These hinge pockets will provide perfect alignment of the hinge line when the
hinges are bottomed in the pockets.
24
Above: The one aileron hinge pocket being assembled on the registration pins.
c 10 Install and tack glue all five of the hinge pocket
ribs to RAB. Do not get glue onto the 1/8” x 1/4”
balsa at the leading edge.
c 11 Assemble the aileron control horn pocket. Using
the pins in a similar manner as you did the aileron
hinge point pockets, glue one ACHP-B to each side
of a HCHP-A to form the control horn pocket.
c 12 Install and tack glue the aileron control horn pocket in the slot provided in AB.
c 13 Use a knife or other implement to apply upward
pressure on the 1/8” x 1/4” leading edge balsa stick
at AR-1 to insure that it is bottomed in the slot and
glue it in this position. Use this same procedure at
all remaining ribs. See photo A.
c 14
ABOVE: The installed hinge pocket next to a standard rib in the aileron assembly.
A
You can now fully glue all the ribs, the bottom
basswood stringer and the leading edge glue land
The Aileron Leading Edge sheeting (RALE) must be formed before installing it. You may have a preferred
method for bending wood but if you don’t or this procedure is new to you, have no fear. I will walk you
through it step by step. Wood would much prefer to stay in the shape of a tree, it is up to us to finesse it into
the shape of an airplane and the best way to do this is to wet it. A piece of 1” PVC pipe about 42” long from
your home supply store will make a perfect mandrel. The wood is first saturated and then formed around
the PVC and allowed to dry in this position. You will also need some 8’ pieces of fiberglass drywall tape.
This is the stuff that looks like gauze and has a self-sticking adhesive on one side. This is also available at
your home supply store and the smallest roll they sell will be more then enough for our purposes.
a. Cut a large trash bag into two 12” x 48” strips. We will use these to cover the wood parts to prevent
them from drying out.
b. Place one of the plastic strips on the bench and place the leading edge on it. Some builders like to
use an ammonia and water mix but I just use a liberal application of Windex with ammonia on the
wood. Turn the part over and apply Windex to the remaining side. Place the remaining plastic sheet
over the part to keep it wet. How long you leave the wood to soak is entirely up to the wood. Typically an hour should do it but it is not uncommon to require several hours. You can test how supple
the wood is through the plastic.
HINT: For this next operation is is best to have a helper. If you are working alone, find a way to
support the mandrel such as another piece of pipe or a large dowel inside it so that you have one
hand to turn the mandrel and part while applying tension on the drywall tape with the other.
c. When the wood can be bent to about half the radius required it should be ready to mount to the
mandrel. Remove the part from the plastic and with a paper towel; wipe down just enough to remove
the excess moisture. Flip the part over and wipe down the backside. Place the part (ALE) on the
mandrel aligned so that it is perfectly parallel to the mandrel and with the labeled side out. Use a
piece of masking tape to secure one end about 3” from the end. Secure the opposite end in the same
manner as well as at the center. Check that it is still aligned square with the mandrel. Start wrapping
the mandrel with the drywall tape, pulling it tight against the mandrel. When you get to the masking
tape, remove it and continue wrapping the part, overlapping the drywall tape slightly until the entire
part is wrapped. Put this assembly aside to thoroughly dry. If any cracking occurs during the wrapping
operation, just keep wrapping and fill it later.
25
d. After the part is the thoroughly dry, remove the drywall tape and sand out any impressions from the
tape. Your leading edge is ready to install.
For aileron assembly help, see the video at http://www.hobby-lobby.com. Type in 12’ Telemaster and click on the
PLAY button.
c 15 Install and glue the remaining 1/8” x 1/4” basswood strip into the center notches on top of the ribs. Install
and glue the two remaining 1/8” x 1/4” balsa sticks into the notches provided at the top leading edge of
the ribs.
c 16 Place the shaped leading edge onto the aileron assembly aligning the notches and tabs. You may notice
that the notches are slightly wider than the tabs. This is to accommodate any minor stretching of the part
that can occur during the bending operation. Use thin CA to glue the leading edge to each rib leading edge
while applying pressure to keep them in good contact. Use a straight edge to hold the leading edge into
contact with the aileron assembly and run a liberal bead of CA along both edges while hold it in contact
with the aileron assembly.
c 17
Sand both ends flat and then glue on the 1/64” plywood end caps (AEC).
c 18
c 19
Plane the trailing edge slightly to contour with the
ribs.
Trim one edge of a sheet of 1/16” x 6” x 36” balsa
sheet with a straight edge. Place it on top of the aileron and butt it up against the leading edge sheeting. Use a piece of masking tape at each hinge rib
to pull it tight against the leading edge sheeting and
hinge it. Flip the sheet forward and apply aliphatic
glue to all ribs, the leading and trailing edges as
well as the 1/8” x 1/4” basswood stringer. Flip the The completed aileron assemblies ready for coversheeting back over the aileron and apply some pressure overall with magazines, sandbags or whatever
you have that will keep the sheeting in contact with
the ribs until cured. Then remove the tape.
This completes the assembly of one aileron; repeat this procedure for the remaining aileron. Install the polycarbonate aileron horns after covering, when doing the final installation of the ailerons onto the wing.
26
Flap
Assembly
(Not built on plans)
The flaps are assembled over a 3/32” balsa base
sheet (LFB and RFB) for left and right flaps. It is
not necessary to build the flaps over the plans. We
will start with the right flap first.
c 1 Locate the right flap base (RFB) and open all tabs.
Pin the part to the workbench labeled side up over
waxed paper.
c 2 From a sheet of 1/8” x 3” x 36” balsa, cut a piece
1-1/4” wide by 32” long. Glue this sheet to the The flap leading edge is installed up against a
trailing edge of RFB.
straight edge and with the building square to insure
a straight and square installation.
c 3
Using the same method, install and glue the hinge
plate cap (RFHPC) on top of RFHP, then remove
the dowels
c 4 Install and glue all ribs FL-1 through FL-8.
c 5 Install and glue two 1/8” x 1/4” x 36” basswood
stringers in the notches provided.
c 6 Assemble the flap horn mount using the registration pins. First install one FLHM-B onto the pins.
Note that FLHM-A has a dash cut area that will be
removed as soon as it has been glued to FLHM-B
so avoid getting glue in this area. Glue FLHM-A to The flap control horn is assembled on the registration pins. The polycarbonate control horn will be
the FLHM-B on the pins.
installed after the flap has been covered.
c 7
Glue the leading edge (RFLE) to RFB. Use a
straight edge butted up against the leading edge of
RFB to insure that RFLE is aligned with RFB. Use
the building square to insure that RFLE is at 90° to
RFB.
c 8 Cut three 1” lengths of 1/8” dowel. Place the right
flap hinge plate (RFHP) in position over RFB and
install the three dowels into the holes provided
in both RFB and RFHP. These will align the flap
hinge plate accurately. Glue the flap hinge plat in
this position and then remove the dowels
RIGHT: The flap hinge pocket plate (RFHP) is
being installed using three 1/8” pinning dowels to
insure correct position.
27
c 9 Cut and remove the dash cut material in FLHM-A
to form the flap horn pocket and then glue the remaining FLHM-B to this assembly.
c 10 Glue the FLHM assembly into the remaining slot
in RFB.
c 11 Plane the leading edge and the trailing edge to contour with the ribs.
c 12 Place a sheet of 1/16” x 6” x 36” balsa on top of
the flap assembly aligned with the leading edge.
Use several strips of masking tape to hold it in this
position. Rough trim off any excess balsa; leave
about 1/16” extra all the way around.
c 13 Flip the top sheet forward to expose the ribs and
apply aliphatic resin glue to the leading and trailing edges as well as all ribs and the two basswood
stringers. Fold the top sheet back over the flap and
apply weight evenly over the entire surface until
cured.
c 14 Sand the leading edge flat. Refer to the plans sheet
#4 W1-A cross section and install a spacer strip
of 1/16” x 1/2” balsa along the top of the leading
edge. Let this strip stand proud of the top sheeting
by about 1/32”. After curing, sand this strip flush
and to contour with the top sheeting.
c 15 The bottom leading edge of the flap must be radiused slightly to allow clearance. Use the supplied
template (FRT) to apply the correct radius.
c 16 Sand both ends flat and slightly radius the trailing
edge. Use the Flap Template to guide you and radius the bottom leading edge.
c 17 Install and glue the flap end caps (FEC).
This completes the assembly of one flap. Assemble
the left flap in the same manner noting the correct
labelling.
Ready for the top sheeting and some minor sanding. Note that the leading and trailing edges have
been planed to contour with the ribs.
MOTOR MOUNT ASSEMBLY
c 1 Use the registration pins to laminate two MBM and two MM parts.
c 2 Use Epoxy to glue on all four sides. The sides are all identical and can only be installed in one position.
After assembling the motor mount, it is recommended that you brush on a liberal application of thinned
Epoxy finishing resin (about 50-50 with denatured alcohol) to wood weld all the parts together. Attach the
motor mount to the firewall with four #8-32 x 5/8” bolts.
28
STRUT ASSEMBLY
The airfoil shaped aluminum struts are a functional part of your Telemaster. Never attempt to fly the aircraft without the struts installed. The struts are attached with ends cut from tough polycarbonate plastic.
These ends must be glued permanently into the shaped aluminum struts with a tooling Epoxy such as J-B
Weld. Your struts can be installed and removed without any tools or extra parts such as bolts. Do not remove the protective film from these parts until instructed to do so.
c 1
Refer to the Strut Attach Detail on plans sheet #1
and install four #6-32 x 1/2” bolts, spacers, washers and Ny-Lock nuts to the strut attach plate. Install the strut attach plate assembly with two #4 x
5/8” sheet metal screws in the first two holes in the
bomb bay plate.
c 2 Remove the burr from the polycarbonate parts.
You will need two short ends, two long ends and
two strut hooks. Use a flat sanding block to sand
off the burr and char. At the wing end of the strut,
the shorter end will go into the forward strut and
longer one into the rear strut. Note that the notches
must be facing away from each other.
c 3 Test fit the parts into the strut. Check that the strut
end has not been deformed in shipment; it should
be the same shape as the rest of the strut. Check the
part in several struts.
Above the hook or fuselage end of a strut assembly
is shown. It’s a good idea to label the struts left and
right as minor differences may make interchanging
them difficult. If you plan to paint your strut assembly, be sure to apply a scuff coat to the polycarbonate parts with fine sandpaper before priming.
c 4 We will begin by assembling the strut hook with
two of the struts. Select two struts and place a
small wad of tissue paper or paper towel in the end
and using the strut hook to push the wad of paper
down the tube until the strut hook bottoms in the
strut. Remove the strut hook and trickle some thin
CA down the inside of the strut to produce a hard
paper plug. Do this to both struts.
c 5 Remove the protective film from both sides of the
strut hook. Use some coarse sand paper to rough
up the tabs of the strut hook that will fit into the
strut. This will improve adhesion of the Epoxy to
the strut. Note the arrows on both tabs of the wing
hook. These arrows point in the direction of flight.
c 6
Mix your Epoxy and fill the end of the strut about
half way with Epoxy. You want to have enough so
that when you install the strut hook, the Epoxy is
forced to fill all the voids in the strut hook and the
strut. When some Epoxy is forced out of the strut
you will know you have succeeded.
The strut attach plate assembly is screwed to the bottom of the fuselage through the holes in the bomb
bay plate just aft of the landing gear.
29
c 7 Repeat this procedure for the remaining strut. Clean up any excess Epoxy (denatured alcohol will do the
trick) and set the assembly aside to cure with the strut hook facing up to prevent the Epoxy from dripping
out.
c 8 After the Epoxy has cured, drill a 1/16” hole centered and 1/2” from the end of each the strut and install a
#2 x 1/4” sheet metal screw.
c 9 Install the wing bar and install a wing onto the fuselage. Place a strut assembly onto the fuselage attach
point and place a short wing end in the forward strut. Slide the strut end onto the strut peg until the retainer
spring snaps out. Place a long strut end in the aft strut and install it onto the strut peg in the same manner.
Mark each strut end at the end of the strut with a Sharpie or scribe a line. Remove the assembly and glue
then end in place using the same technique as used at the hook end.
HINGING SURFACES
Large Robart hinge pins are used on all flying surfaces and Robart medium hinge pins are used on the
bomb bay doors. The hinge pin holes are all laser cut for a precision hinge line every time, however there
are still some things that must be done to insure free movement of all surfaces. In all cases EXCEPT the
aileron holes in the wing trailing edge, the hinges must be bottomed in their holes and they will align perfectly. In the case of the ailerons you MUST use the installation tool to get the exact depth required.
c 1 The aileron hinge points require a 7/32” x 1-1/8” brass extension tube on the wing side. Cut ten pieces of
brass tubing from the 12” stick supplied. Use thick CA to glue these tubes to one end of ten hinge points.
Apply CA to the hinge point and some into the tube, slide the hinge point into the tube. Wipe off any excess
CA and apply accelerator. Put aside to thoroughly cure.
c 2 After the CA has cured, sand a chamfer on the end
of the brass tubing so it will not catch on the sides
of the hole when being installed. This is easily done
by spinning it against a sanding disk, drum or belt.
c 3 Clean ends with denatured alcohol to remove any
contaminates that will prohibit a good bond with
the Epoxy that will be used to install the aileron
hinge assemblies into the wing.
ABOVE: The end of the brass tube is chamfered to
remove any burrs and allow smooth passage into
the wing hole.
LEFT: A brass garden hose cap makes a great container to heat up the Vaseline for dipping the hinges. This will insure that no adhesive gets into the
hinge during installation and seize it up. Use your
covering iron for a source of controlled heat. Hold
the hinge in the hot solution until it warms enough
to allow the Vaseline to flow into the hinge. Lay the
treated hinges on a clean paper towel to absorb excess lubricant. Take care not to allow the Vaseline
to get on the ends of the hinges.
30
c 4 The brass tube end of the hinges is installed with 5
minute Epoxy. Use a piece of 1/16” wire to butter
the inside of the aileron hinge holes with Epoxy.
Wipe the brass tube with Epoxy and then insert the
hinge to the depth allowed by the aileron hinge installation tool. Bend each hinge at a 90° angle to
insure it is at the correct rotation to the hinge line.
c 5 All remaining hinges are installed with an Epoxy
and Micro Balloon mixture. Mix about a tablespoon full of Z-Poxy finishing resin and add micro
balloons until you have a mixture slightly thicker
the peanut butter. You want it dry enough so that it
will not slump or run but not so dry that it will not
stick. Once again use a length of 1/16” wire to butter the insides of the hinge holes. Don’t try to pack
the holes with the mixture. Butter the ends of the
hinges as well. This is easy to do by just picking up
some of the mixture and rubbing the hinge between
your fingers. You just want a nice film of the material on the hinge. You will have some access to all
hinges except the aileron hinges once installed so if
some oozing of Epoxy occurs you can wipe it off.
With the ailerons you may want to test the holes
with a spare hinge to make sure you do not have
too much Epoxy in the holes. All hinges must be
bottomed in their holes to line up correctly. When
satisfied with the installation, put the assemblies
aside to cure.
The hinge is nested in the aileron hinge insertion
tool. Make sure it is bottomed in the slot.
After applying 5 minute Epoxy, the hinge is installed and pressed in with the aileron hinge
installation tool. This tool will insure the exact
depth of each hinge.
CONTROL HORNS
All control horns are installed with 5 minute Epoxy
after the model has been covered. Cut the covering from the slot and the area where the horn will
rest on the surface. Fill the slot with Epoxy and
wipe the control horn with Epoxy. Make sure to
get some into the holes in the horn mount. If there
are no holes in the horn mount, drill some before
proceeding. Install the horn and let the excess Epoxy ooze out. Clean up the excess Epoxy with denatured alcohol.
WING LOADING CHART
Aircraft Weight
Lbs.
25
27
29
31
33
35
37
Wing Loading
Oz. Per Sq. Ft.
19.0
20.5
22.0
23.5
25.1
26.6
28.1
31
NOTE: Before peeling the protective skin from these parts, use fine sandpaper to remove any flashing from the
edges. When the edges are smooth, peel off the protective skin.
32
PART LOCATOR
PART #
ACHP-A
ACHP-B
AEC
AHD
AHP-A
AHP-A
AHP-B
AILERON HINGE TOOL
AR-1
AR-2
AR-3
AR-4
AR-5
AR-6
AR-7
AR-8
AR-9
BBB
BBD-A
BBD-B
BBDC
BBD-C
BBF
BBF
BBL-A
BBL-B
BBL-C
BBP
BBS
BBSP
BBWHP
BBWHP
BBWHPC
BBWHPC
BNP
BSR
DF
E2
E3
E4
E5
E6
E7
E8
EB
EB
EF
EF
EH1-A
EH1-B
EH2-A
EH2-B
EH3-A
EH3-A
EH3-B
EH4-A
EH4-B
EHB
EJ
ELE
QTY.
2
2
4
10
6
4
20
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
2
2
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
4
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
1
2
4
2
4
2
4
1
1
1
2
4
1
1
2
SHEET #
63
67
18
17
45
46
1
19
10
26
26
26
26
26
26
26
10
44
63
68
63
68
20
44
44
1
44
44
44
20
67
68
67
68
43
20
50
25
25
25
25
25
25
10
6
7
10
11
45
67
45
67
45
46
67
46
67
17
17
75
SIZE
MATERIAL
3/32" X 6" X 15"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
1/64" X 4" X 12"
1/4" X 3" X 24"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
1/16" X 12" X 24"
1/4" X 7.5" X 39"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
3/32" X 6" X 15"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 6" X 15"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/16" X 12" X 24"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/16" X 6" X 36"
1/16" X 6" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 3" X 24"
1/4" X 3" X 24"
3/8" X 3" X 36"
AC PLY
BALSA
3-PLY
BASSWOOD
BALSA
BALSA
AC PLY
LITE PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
LITE PLY
AC PLY
BALSA
AC PLY
BALSA
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
AC PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BASSWOOD
BASSWOOD
BALSA
USAGE
AILERON CONTROL HORN POCKET PART A
AILERON CONTROLE HORN POCKET PART B
AILERON END CAP
AILERON HINGE DONUT
AILERON HINGE POCKET PART B
AILERON HINGE POCKET PART A
AILERON HINGE POCKET PART B
aILERON HINGE INSTALLAETION
AILERON RIB 1
AILERON RIB 2
AILERON RIB 3
AILERON RIB 4
AILERON RIB 5
AILERON RIB 6
AILERON RIB 7
AILERON RIB 8
AILERON RIB 9
BOMB BAY BACK
BOMB BAY DOOR PART A
BOMB BAY DOOR PART B
BOMB BAY DOOR CATCH
BOMB BAY DOOR PART C
BOMB BAY FRAME
BOMB BAY FRONT
BOMB BAY LATCH PART A
BOMB BAY PART B
BOMB BAY LATCH PART B
BOMB BAY PARTITION
BOMB BAY SIDES
BOMB BAY SERVO PLATE
BOMB BAY WALL HINGE POCKET
BOMB BAY WALL HINGE POCKET
BOMB BAY WALL HINGE POCKET CAP
BOMB BAY WALL HINGE POCKET CAP
BLIND NUT PLATE
BOMB BAY SCREW RAIL
DORSAL FIN
ELEVATOR RIB 2
ELEVATOR RIB 3
ELEVATOR RIB 4
ELEVATOR RIB 5
ELEVATOR RIB 6
ELEVATOR RIB 7
ELEVATOR RIB 8
ELEVATOR BASE
ELEVATOR BASE
ELEVATOR FILL
ELEVATOR FILL
ELEVATOR HINGE POCKET 1 PART A
ELEVATOR HINGE POCKET 1 PART B
ELEVATOR HINGE POCKET 2 PART A
ELEVATOR HINGE POCKET 2 PART B
ELEVATOR HINGE POCKET 3 PART A
ELEVATOR HINGE POCKET 3 PART A
ELEVATOR HINGE POCKET 3 PART B
ELEVATOR HINGE POCKET 4 PART A
ELEVATOR HINGE POCKET 4 PART B
ELEVATOR HORN BLOCK
ELEVATOR JOINER
ELEVATOR LEADING EDGE
33
PART #
F1-A
F1-B
F1-C
F2
F3
F4
F5
F6
F7
F8
FBD
FEC
FHP
FHP
FHPC
FL-1
FL-2
FL-3
FL-4
FL-5
FL-6
FL-7
FL-8
FLB-A
FLB-A
FLB-B
FLB-B
FLHM-A
FLHM-B
FLT
FLT-C
FLT-C
FLT-D
FLT-D
FRT
FS-I-A
FS-I-A
FS-I-B
FS-I-B
FS-I-C
FS-I-C
FS-O-A
FS-O-A
FS-O-B
FS-O-B
FS-O-C
FS-O-C
FSP
FTED
FWB
HA
HLP
HR
L.E. TEMPLATE
LAB
LALE
LEP-A
LEP-A
LEP-B
LFB
34
QTY. SHEET #
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
4
10
10
10
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
1
1
1
2
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
23
23
23
20
19
19
20
20
20
20
20
18
61
88
8
10
25
25
25
25
25
25
10
77
78
77
78
67
1
20
58
79
58
79
44
51
80
46
48
50
55
49
84
45
47
52
81
23
87
23
19
20
23
44
5
2
70
71
69
64
SIZE
MATERIAL
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
1/4" X 7.5" X 39"
1/4" X 7.5" X 39"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
1/64" X 4" X 12"
3/16" X 3" X 6"
3/16" X 3" X 24"
1/32" X 2.3" X 6"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
3/8" X 4" X 36"
3/8" X 4" X 36"
3/8" X 4" X 36"
3/8" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
1/16" X 12" X 24"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
3/8" X 6" X 48"
3/8" X 6" X 48"
3/8" X 6" X 48"
3/8" X 6" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 3" C 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/4" X 7.5" X 39"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/16" X 6" X 36"
1/16" X 3" X 36"
3/32" X 3" X 48"
3/32" X 3" X 48"
3/32" X 3" X 48"
3/32" X 6" X 36"
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
3-PLY
BASSWOOD
BASSWOOD
AC PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
AC PLY
LITE PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
LITE PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
3-PLY
BALSA
3-PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
3-PLY
LITE PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
USAGE
FIREWALL PART A
FIREWALL PART B
FIREWALL PART C
FORMER 2
FORMER 3
FORMER 4
FORMER 5
FORMER 6
FORMER 7
FORMER 8
FUSELAGE BATTERY DECK
FLAP END CAP
FLAP HINGE POCKET
FLAP HINGE POCKET
FLAP HINGE CAPS
FLAP RIB 1
FLAP RIB 2
FLAP RIB 3
FLAP RIB 4
FLAP RIB 5
FLAP RIB 6
FLAP RIB 7
FLAP RIB 8
FUSELAGE LONGERON PART A
FUSELAGE LONGERON PART A
FUSELAGE LONGERON PART B
FUSELAGE LONGERON PART B
FLAP HORN MOUNT PART A
FLAP HORN MOUNT PART B
FUSELAGE LOWER TAILPIECE
FUSELAGE LONGERON TOP, PART C
FUSELAGE LONGERON TOP, PART C
FUSELAGE LONGERON TOP, PART D
FUSELAGE LONGERON TOP, PART D
FLAP RADIUSING TEMPLATE
FUSELAGE SIDE, INNER PART A
FUSELAGE SIDE, INNER PART A
FUSELAGE SIDE, INNER PART B
FUSELAGE SIDE, INNER PART B
FUSELAGE SIDE, INNER PART C
FUSELAGE SIDE, INNER PART C
FUSELAGE SIDE, OUTER PART A
FUSELAGE SIDE, OUTER PART A
FUSELAGE SIDE, OUTER PART B
FUSELAGE SIDE, OUTER PART B
FUSELAGE SIDE, OUTER PART C
FUSELAGE SIDE, OUTER PART C
FUSELAGE STABILIZER PLATE
FLAP TRAILING EDGE DOUBLER
FUSELAGE WING BASE
HATCH
HATCH LATCH PLATE
HATCH RAIL
L.E. TEMPLATE
LEFT AILERON BASE
LEFT AILERON LEADING EDGE
WING LEADING EDGE PLATE PART A
WING LEADING EDGE PLATE PART A
WING LEADING EDGE PLATE B
LEFT FLAP BASE
PART #
LFHP
LFHPC
LFLE
LFSM
LGG
LGM-A
LGM-B
LGM-C
LWT
MBM
MBS
MITER GUAGE
MM
PLY WASHERS
R1
R2
R3
R4
R5
R6
R7
RAB
RALE
RC
RF-A
RFB
RF-B
RF-C
RFHP
RFHPC
RFLE
RFSM
RHB
RHC
RLE
RS
RSS
RWT
S1
S2
S2
S3
S3
S4
S4
S5
S5
S6
S6
S7
S7
S8
SHP
SHP
SLEP
SP
SPA
SPB
SPHC
SQUARE
QTY. SHEET #
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
2
4
1
2
4
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
1
1
2
1
2
2
1
1
1
1
2
6
2
2
2
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
8
8
2
1
1
1
16
2
53
65
11
43
10
23
23
23
59
24
24
44
24
22
65
65
65
65
65
65
16
4
3
1
6
66
1-A
6
53
65
11
43
56
1
16
54
19
60
16
41
42
41
42
41
42
41
42
41
42
41
42
16
61
88
40
43
43
43
64
20
SIZE
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 8" X 12"
1/8" X 8" X 12"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 8" X 12"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 3" X 36"
1/16" X 6" X 36"
1/16" X 3" X 36"
1/16" X 12" X 24"
1/16" X 6" X 36"
3/32" X 6" X 36"
1/16" Z 6" X 6"
1/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/16" X 4"X 36"
1/16" X 12" X 24"
1/4" X 3" X 36"
1/16" X 6" X 36"
1/4" X 7.5" X 39"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/4" X 3" X 36"
3/16" X 3" X 6"
3/16" X 3" X 24"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
3/32" X 6" X 36"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
MATERIAL
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
LITE PLY
BALSA
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
BALSA
AC PLY
AC PLY
LITE PLY
AC PLY
3-PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
AC PLY
BALSA
BALSA
AC PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
LITE PLY
BALSA
AC PLY
BALSA
BALSA
LITE PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BASSWOOD
BASSWOOD
BALSA
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
BALSA
LITE PLY
USAGE
LEFT FLAP HINGE PLATE
LEFT FLAP HINGE POCKET CAP
LEFT FLAP LEADING EDGE
LEFT FLAP SERVO MOUNT
LANDING GEAR GUSSET
LANDING GEAR MOUNT PART A
LANDING GEAR MOUNT PART B
LANDING GEAR MOUNT PART C
LEFT WING TIP
MOTOR MOUNT BOLT PLATE
MOTOR MOUNT SIDES
MITER GUAGE
MOTOR MOUNT
sTRUT POST REINFORCMENT
RUDDER RIB 1
RUDDER RIB 2
RUDDER RIB 3
RUDDER RIB 4
RUDDER RIB 5
RUDDER RIB 1
RUDDER PART 7
RIGHT AILERON BASE
RIGHT AILERON LEADING EDGE
RUDDER CORE
RUDDER FILL PART A
RIGHT FLAP BASE
RUDDER FILL PART B
RUDDER FILL PART C
RIGHT FLAP HINGE PLATE
RIGHT FLAP HINGE POCKET CAP
RIGHT FLAP LEADING EDGE
RIGHT FLAP SERVO MOUNT
RUDDER HINGE BLOCKING
RUDDER HINGE CAPS
RUDDER LEADING EDGE
RUDDER SHEETING
REINFORCED STABILIZER SERVO
RIGHT WING TIP
STABILIZER RIB 1
STABILIZER RIB 2
STABILIZER RIB 2
STABILIZER RIB 3
STABILIZER RIB 3
STABILIZER RIB 4
STABILIZER RIB 4
STABILIZER RIB 5
STABILIZER RIB 5
STABILIZER RIB 6
STABILIZER RIB 6
STABILIZER RIB 7
STABILIZER RIB 7
STABILIZER PART 8
FLAP HINGE POCKET
STABILIZER HINGE POCKET
STABILIZER LEADING EDGE PLATE
WING AILERON SERVO PLATE
STABILIZER PLATE PART A
STABILIZER PLATE PART B
STABILIZER HINGE POCKET CAPS
BUILDING SQUARE
35
PART #
ST
STE
STEP
STG-1
STG-2
STG-3
TE-A-1
TE-A-1
TE-A-2
TE-A-2
TE-B-1
TE-B-1
TE-B-2
TE-B-2
TEP-A
TEP-A
TEP-B
TEPT
TETP
TG-1
TG-1
TG-2
TG-2
TG-3
TG-3
TG-4
TG-4
TG-5
TG-5
TH
THH
THL
THMMP
THR
V1
V1
V2
V3-A
V3-B
V3-C
V4
V5
V6
W10
W10
W11
W11
W11-D
W11-D
W12
W12
W12-D
W12-D
W13
W13
W13-D
W13-D
W14
W14
W14-D
36
QTY. SHEET #
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
1
3
1
1
1
3
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
26
76
39
16
16
16
12
14
12
14
13
15
13
15
72
73
74
44
9
59
60
59
60
59
60
59
60
59
60
1
23
23
44
23
49
51
52
57
55
57
57
16
16
21
22
30
35
82
85
28
34
82
85
28
34
62
84
27
33
62
SIZE
1/8" X 4" X 36"
3/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 3" X 36"
1/4" X 3" X 36"
1/4" X 3" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 48"
3/32" X 4" X 48"
3/32" X 4" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/32" X 4" X 48"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
1/16" X 12" X 24"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 3" X 36"
1/4" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
MATERIAL
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
LITE PLY
AC PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
AC PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
LITE PLY
3-PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
3-PLY
3-PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
USAGE
STABILIZER TIP
STABILIZER TRAILING EDGE
STABILIZER TRAILING EDGE PLATE
STABILIZER TIP GUSSET 1
STABILIZER TIP GUSSET 2
STABILIZER TIP GUSSET 3
TRAILING EDGE A PART 1
TRAILING EDGE A PART 1
TRAILING EDGE A PART 2
TRAILING EDGE A PART 2
TRAILING EDGE B PART 1
TRAILING EDGE B PART 1
TRAILING EDGE B PART 2
TRAILING EDGE B PART 2
WING TRAILING EDGE PLATE PART A
WING TRAILING EDGE PLATE PART A
WING TRAILING EDGE PLATE PART B
TRAILING EDGE PLANING TEMPLATE
TRAILING EDGE TOP PLATE
WING TIP GUSSET 1
WING TIP GUSSET 1
WING TIP GUSSET 2
WING TIP GUSSET 2
WING TIP GUSSET 3
WING TIP GUSSET 3
WING TIP GUSSET 4
WING TIP GUSSET 4
WING TIP GUSSET 5
WING TIP GUSSET 5
TOP HATCH
TOP HATCH HANDLE
TOP HATCH LATCH
TOP HATCH MAGNET MOUNTING PLATE
TOP HATCH RAIL
VERTICAL FIN PART 1
VERTICAL FIN PART 1
VERTICAL FIN PART 2
VERTICAL FIN PART 3 A
VERTICAL FIN PART 3C
VERTICAL FIN PART 3 C
VERTICAL FIN PART 4
VERTICAL FIN PART 5
VERTICAL FIN PART 6
WING RIB 10
WING RIB 10
WING RIB 11
WING RIB 11
DIAGONAL RIB 11
DIAGONAL RIB 11
WING RIB 13
WING RIB 12
DIAGONAL RIB 12
DIAGONAL RIB 12
WING RIB 12
WING RIB 13
DIAGONAL RIB 13
DIAGONAL RIB 13
WING RIB 14
WING RIB 14
DIAGONAL RIB 14
PART #
W14-D
W15
W15
W15-D
W15-D
W16
W16
W16-D
W16-D
W1-A
W1-A
W1-B
W1-B
W2
W2
W2-A
W2-A
W3
W3
W3-A
W3-A
W3-D
W3-D
W4
W4
W4-A
W4-A
W4-D
W4-D
W5
W5
W5-D
W5-D
W6
W6
W6-D
W6-D
W7
W7
W7-D
W7-D
W8
W8
W8-A
W8-D
W8-D
W9
W9
W9-D
W9-D
WASMP
WASMP
WBB
WBB-B
WBB-R
WBG
WBS
WCNC
WCNP
WCNS
QTY. SHEET #
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
2
4
4
4
84
27
33
62
84
21
22
62
84
21
22
21
22
32
38
21
22
32
38
21
22
39
40
31
37
21
22
83
86
31
37
83
86
30
36
83
86
30
36
83
86
29
35
22
82
85
21
22
82
85
21
22
23
23
23
18
23
63
20
9
SIZE
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/64" X 4" X 12"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
3/32" X 6" X 15"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
1/32" X 4" X 48"
MATERIAL
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
3-PLY
3-PLY
BALSA
BALSA
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
BALSA
BALSA
3-PLY
3-PLY
BALSA
BALSA
3-PLY
3-PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
3-PLY
3-PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
3-PLY
BALSA
BALSA
3-PLY
3-PLY
BALSA
BALSA
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
AC PLY
LITE PLY
AC PLY
USAGE
DIAGONAL RIB 14
WING RIB 15
WING RIB 15
DIAGONAL RIB 15
DIAGONAL RIB 15
WING RIB 16
WING RIB 16
DIAGONAL RIB 16
DIAGONAL RIB 16
WING RIB 1 PART A
WING RIB 1 PART A
WING RIB 1 PART B
WING RIB 1 PART B
WING RIB 2
WING RIB 2
WING RIB 2 PART A
WING RIB 2 PART B
WING RIB 3
WING RIB 3
WING RIB 3 PART A
WING RIB 3 PART A
DIAGONAL RIB 3
DIAGONAL RIB 3
WING RIB 4
WING RIB 4
WING RIB 4 PART A
WING RIB 4 PART B
DIAGONAL RIB 3
DIAGONAL RIB 4
WING RIB 5
WING RIB 5
DIAGONAL RIB 5
DIAGONAL RIB 5
WING RIB 6
WING RIB 6
DIAGONAL RIB 6
DIAGONAL RIB 6
WING RIB 7
WING RIB 7
DIAGONAL RIB 7
DIAGONAL RIB 7
WING RIB 8
WING RIB 8
WING RIB 8 PART A
DIAGONAL RIB 8
DIAGONAL RIB 8
WING RIB 9
WING RIB 9
DIAGONAL RIB 9
DIAGONAL RIB 9
WING AFT STRUT MOUNT PLATE
WING AFT STRUT MOUNT PLATE
WING BAR BRACE
WING BAR BRACKET PART B
WING BAR BRACE, RIGHT SIDE
WING BAR STOP
WING CAPTURE NUT CAP
WING CAPTURE NUT PLATE
WING CATCH NUT SPACER
37
PART #
WDW-A
WDW-B
WFSMP
WFSMP
WHA
WHF
WLM
WS
WSM-1
WSM-1
WSM-2
WSM-2
WSM-3
WSM-3
WSM-4
38
QTY. SHEET #
2
2
1
1
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
44
44
21
22
21
21
20
10
21
22
21
22
21
22
21
SIZE
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
MATERIAL
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
LITE PLY
BALSA
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
USAGE
WING DIHEDRAL WEB A
WING DIHEDRAL WEB B
WING FORWARD STRUT MOUNT PLATE
WING FORWARD STRUT MOUNT PLATE
FORWARD WING HAND HOLD
AFT WING HAND HOLD
WING LATCH MOUNT
WIND SHIELD
WING STRUT MOUNT PART 1
WING STRUT MOUNT PART 1
WING STRUT MOUNT PART 2
WING STRUT MOUNT PART 2
WING STRUT MOUNT PART 3
WING STRUT MOUNT PART 3
WING STRUT MOUNT PART 4
INVENTORY SHEET
SHEET #
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
SIZE
1/16" X 12" X 24"
1/16" X 3" X 36"
1/16" X 3" X 36"
1/16" X 6" X 36"
1/16" X 6" X 36"
1/16" X 6" X 36"
1/16" X 6" X 36"
1/32" X 2.3" X 6"
1/32" X 4" X 48"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 4" X 36"
1/4" X 3" X 36"
1/4" X 3" X 24"
1/64" X 4" X 12"
1/4" X 7.5" X 39"
1/4" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 12" X 37"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
1/8" X 8" X 12"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
1/8" X 12" X 19"
1/8" X 12" X 48"
MATERIAL
AC PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
AC PLY
AC PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BASSWOOD
AC PLY
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
3-PLY
AC PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
LITE PLY
LITE PLY
SHEET #
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
84
85
86
87
SIZE
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
1/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
1/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/8" X 6" X 48"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 3" X 12"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 6" X 15"
3/32" X 6" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 6" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 4" X 36"
3/32" X 3" X 48"
3/32" X 3" X 48"
3/32" X 3" X 48"
3/32" X 4" X 48"
3/32" X 4" X 48"
3/32" X 4" X 48"
3/8" X 3" X 36"
3/8" X 3" X 36"
3/8" X 4" X 36"
3/8" X 4" X 36"
3/8" X 6" X 48"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
3/16" X 6" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 4" X 36"
1/8" X 3" X 36"
MATERIAL
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BASSWOOD
BALSA
AC PLY
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
BALSA
39
30
Sheets, sticks and shapes
Item
Size
Dowel
1/8" x 36"
Shape
1/4" Triangle
Shape
1" x 36" Triangle
Shape
3/4" x 36"
Shape
1/2" x 36" Triangle
Shape (TE)
5/16" x 1-1/4" x 36"
Sheet
1/16" x 6" x 36"
Stick
1/8" x 1/4" x 36"
Stick
1/16" x 3/8" x 36"
Stick
1/8" x 1" x 36"
Stick
1/8" x 1/4" x 36"
Sheet
1/8" x 4" x 36"
Sheet
1/4" x 4" x 36"
Stick
1/2" x 1/2" x 36"
Stick
1/2" x 1" x 36"
Stick
3/32" x 1/2" x 36"
Stick
1/4" x 1/2" x 36"
Stick
1/8" x 1/2" x 36"
Stick
1/4" x 1/4" x 36"
Stick
3/16" x 3/8" x 24"
Stick
3/8" x 3/4" x 48"
Stick
1/4" x 1/4" x 36"
Qty.
1
2
1
1
1
1
4
13
2
2
8
1
1
12
4
4
8
4
1
1
8
2
Material
HD. WD.
Balsa
Balsa
Balsa
Balsa
Balsa
Balsa
Basswood
Basswood
Balsa
Balsa
Balsa
Balsa
Balsa
Balsa
Balsa
Balsa
Basswood
Basswood
Basswood
Balsa
Balsa
Hardware & Miscelanious
Item
Size
Axle
#250
Bar stock
1/8" x 3/4" x 10-1/2"
Bar stock
1/4" x 1" x 36"
Block
.5" x 1/5" x 3"
Bolt
#4-40 X 1/2"
Bolt
#8-32 x 1.5"
Bolt
#6-32 x 1/2"
Bolt
#8-32 x 5/8"
Bolt
#6-32 x 5/8"
Catch plates
3/32"
Eyelet
3/16"
Hingepoint
Robart large
Hingepoint
Robart medium
Horn, aileron
3/32"
Horn, flap
3/32"
Horn, rudder
3/32"
Horn, stabilizer
3/32"
Landing gear
3/16" Formed
Latch
3/32"
Magnet
1/8" x 3/8"
Nail
8d x 2.5"
Nut
#4-40
Qty.
2
1
1
2
4
4
6
4
4
2
1
32
6
2
2
1
2
1
1
4
2
4
Material
Usage
Plated
Landing gear
Aluminum
Fuselage strut mount
Aluminum
Wing bar
MDF
Pinning blocks
Plated
Wing antipivot plate
Truss head
Wing capture hardware
Plated
Strut mount
Plated
Landing gear mount, Motor mount
Plated
Wing strut mount
Polycarbonate Wing antipivot pins
Plated
Bomb bay release
Composit
All controle surfaces
Composit
Bomb bay doors
Polycarbonate Aileron
Polycarbonate Flap
Polycarbonate Rudder
Polycarbonate Stabilizer
Aluminum
Landing gear mains
Polycarbonate Bomb bay latch
Hatches
Steel
Pinning system
Std. Nut
Wing antipivot plate
Usage
Multiple locations
Trailing edge support at aileron bay
Wing tip, Multiple locations
Firewall
Windshield, multiple locations
Stabilizer trailing edge
Top sheeting ailerons and flaps
Multiple locations
Flap leading edge spacer
Aileron trailing edge
Aileron stringers
Fuselage top
Fuselage bottom
Wing spars
Wing leading edge
Wing leading edge padding
Wing turbulators
Stabilizer spars
Top hatch stiffener, Over wing hatch
Servo screw rails
Fuselage stringers
Over wing on fuselage
Hardware & Miscelanious (Continued)
Item
Size
Nut, blind
#4-40
Nut, Blind
#8-32
Nut, Ny-Lock
#6-32
Nut, Ny-Lock
#8-32
Nut, Standard
#8-32
Ny-lock nut
#6-32
Plans
Screw
#4 x 5/8"
Screw
#2 x 1/4"
Spacer
#6 X 5/32"
Spring
#94
Strut
3/4" x 36"
Strut end, long
1/8"
Strut end, short
1/8"
Strut hook
1/8"
Tail Wheel Strut 5/32" M.W.
Thread
137M
T-nut
#6
Tube
7/32" x 12"
Washer
#4
Washer
#6
Washer
#4
Wire
.047" x 18"
Wire
.02" x 3-38"
Wire
.0625" x 18"
Qty.
4
4
6
4
4
4
4
2
8
8
1
4
2
2
2
1
12"
4
1
4
4
4
1
1
1
Material
Usage
Blind nut
Wing antipivot plate
Plated
Wing capture hardware
Plated
Strut mount
Plated
Wing catch bolts
Plated
Wing capture hardware
Plated
Wing strut mount
Rolled
Plated
Strut mounting bar
Plated
Wing strut assembly
Aluminum
Strut mounting pegs
Plated
Wing antipivot plate
Aluminum
Formed strut
Polycarbonate Wing strut mount
Polycarbonate Wing strut mount
Polycarbonate Wing strut mount
Formed
Tail wheel mount
Upholstery
Bomb bay release mechanism
Plated
Stabilizer plate
Brass
Aileron hinge mounts
Flat washer Wing antipivot plate
Plated
Wing strut mount
Plated
Wing antipivot plate
Music wire
Music wire
Music wire
Bomb bay latch spring
Music wire
Wing bar latch & Strut latches
41
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Circle
Brentwood TN 37027 USA
Phone 866-512-1444