`Protecting Your Fine Rug Investment`.

Transcription

“Protecting Your
Fine Hand Woven
Rug Investments”
By Norma Mc Cormick
“Like any fine work of art, Oriental rugs appreciate in value
with the passage of time. During their 2,000 year history,
Oriental rugs have been a standard of luxury and have
proved countless times … when properly maintained
their value increases over the years.”
Please feel free to pass this report on to friends and family.
If you want more information or have questions please call
me personally or visit our informative web site.
480-814-1657
www.NormasRugCleaning.com
© 2007 Norma McCormick All Rights Reserved
Norma’s Fine Oriental Rug Cleaning
Dear “Hand Made Rug” Lover,
I love and collect hand made rugs, and my business tends to attract people like you, who share
the same love and appreciation for the fine art of rug making.
As you read this report from cover to cover - you’re discover all the fine rug care secrets I’ve
learned from the countless training classes I’ve attended as a rug collector, and all the practical
tips and insider knowledge I’ve learned from my years as a certified “Master Textile Technician”
in my residential & commercial carpet cleaning business.
We appreciate hand woven rugs as “valuable artistic expressions” and “living histories”
reflecting the weaver’s life and traditions, from every corner of the world.
The amazing fact is that weavers literally invest great “parts of their lives”, maybe years into a
single rug: carefully shearing, dyeing, and then hand tying hundreds of thousands
of precise knots to create the beautiful rug that is now - a “part of your life”.
Our company values every rug for its workmanship and artistic spirit, but most importantly we
value it because it’s special to you, and when properly cared for will provide long lasting beauty
and financial returns for 100 years or longer.
“We know that every rug holds a special story, and whether it’s an
‘appreciating financial investment’ that beautifies your home or a
‘valued family heirloom’ lovingly passed from one generation to the next …
your rug deserves the very best care to maintain its history, beauty and value.”
“The scientific fact is - that your ‘hand made rugs’ need special
‘hand washing and drying techniques’ because they’re made of natural fibers
and cannot take the harsh cleaning procedures we use on synthetic carpets.”
Just as you would never throw a fine wool suit or a cashmere sweater into the washing machine
with harsh detergents, you should NEVER let your natural hand made rugs be touched by a
commercial-carpet-cleaner or dry-cleaner. ( I’ll tell you why in this report. )
Museum curators, auction houses like “Christies Auction House of New York,” established rug
merchants, and knowledgeable collectors know there is ONLY one way to clean, restore and
preserve fine hand made rugs … and that’s by completely removing all the dirt and then
submersion bathing the rug. ( Inside this report I’ll tell you why vacuuming alone can NOT get the
job done, and why - if you don’t remove ALL the dirt you just make MUD when you get your rug wet. )
It is with this spirit that my company and my staff carefully researched, developed and then
invested in the finest, most effective and safest cleaning and maintenance system for your fine
rugs. Our systems combine the proven traditional cleaning processes into a “Proprietary 7 Step
Scientific Hand Wash Process” that merges traditional (long proven) rug cleaning techniques
with today’s modern science and technology.
This report outlines the entire “7 Step Hand Washing Process” AND gives you the scientifically
proven procedures that you’ll need to protect, preserve and maintain all of your rug investments.
In addition, I’ve included a number of insightful reports that will help you have the same years of
enjoyment and investment return with your rugs - that I’ve had with mine.
“Before you start reading the special reports, I have to brag for a minute.”
I just had my insurance updated on part of my rug collection… and not only have
my rugs increased in value - the appraiser said the colors were so bright and well
preserved that they may very well pay for my grand children’s college education!
“Sustained beauty and great financial returns are just two of the reasons that
I protect my rugs with professional hand washing care and professional storage.”
I hope you get as much joy and value from your rugs as much as I do mine. Please feel free to
call me anytime, I love to talk about rugs and rug care.
Warmest Regards,
Norma
Norma McCormick, founder and owner, Norma’s Fine Oriental Rug Cleaning
-- Certified Rug Technician & Master Textile Technician with the IICRC,
-- IICRC Certified Firm (Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration),
-- Active member ASCR Association of Specialists in Cleaning and Restoration
-- Member of the Fabric Care Institute
-- Members in good Standing BBB, Chandler and Tempe Chamber’s of Commerce
P.S. If your time is short, make sure you read the next 2 pages on “Old Myths About Rug
Cleaning” … it could save you’re a fortune, and will stop you from making any mistakes
concerning your rug’s care and preservation.
Here ‘s some of the additional information I’ve included for your “Rug-Care-Library”:
•
Why museum quality rug cleaners will “individually dye-test EVERY single color” in
your rug. (We do this for every color and it can take as long as 24 hours to test a color.)
•
Why Dirt Removal Is The #1 Thing You Must Do - To Avoid Making MUD In Your
Rug. (This is 1 of the reasons why you never want to use a wall-to-wall carpet cleaning
service to clean you hand made rugs.)
•
Your “Holiday EMERGENCY Rug Care Guide” ( I can’t tell you how many valuable
rugs this Care Guide has saved because their owners took immediate action and knew
exactly what-to-do, and how-to-do it. )
•
The “Pet Puddle Care Guide” (Everything you need to know about “protecting and
restoring” your rugs when pet accidents happen, (including urine, feces, and vomit).
•
Why wall-to-wall carpet cleaners are the WORST way to clean hand made rugs!
“Old Myths and Fallacies About
Oriental Rug Cleaning … That Cost You Dearly”
These are short answers that reference more detailed explanations.
“It ain’t the things you don’t know that get you into trouble in life,
it’s the things that you do know … that just ain’t so!”
Mark Twain
Myth #1 “My rugs will last longer if I never clean them.”
TRUTH: Your fine hand made rugs are made of natural fibers and natural fibers need to be
cleaned on a regular basis to PREVENT irreversible damage.
Damage occurs as you walk across your oriental rug, grinding dirt (a highly abrasive
substance) into its fibers & giving it a worn look. The #1 thing you can do to
preserve your rugs is to clean them on a regular basis including vacuuming and hand
washing. (More specific information on pages 2, 3, 12, 13)
Myth #2: “The only reason to clean your rugs is to remove the dirt.”
TRUTH: Unfortunately dirt is not the only contaminant trapped in your rug’s fibers; Insects,
mites, and air pollutants also become embedded in your rug, and these pollutants can
aggravate existing respiratory conditions, including allergies, asthma and
emphysema. Frequent rug-cleaning decreases the amount of pollutants stored in
your rug’s fibers and improves your home’s indoor air quality. (See pgs 3, 10, 12, 13)
Myth #3: “Any wall-to-wall carpet cleaning company can clean your oriental
rugs.
TRUTH: On site cleaners only clean the surface of your rug, they can’t deeply clean a hand
made rug because they CAN NOT completely saturate the rug’s fibers; primarily
because their equipment is NOT designed to remove that much water from natural
fibers.
Think about it, natural fibers ABSORB water, synthetic fibers DO NOT… wall-towall carpet cleaning systems are made for synthetic fibers, because the synthetic
carpet fibers do not absorb any water the equipment can easily vacuum up the
remaining moisture. BUT when the same equipment is used on natural fibers the
water is drawn into the natural fibers like a sponge - where it can take days to dry out
resulting in both mildew damage and dye bleeding. (Drying natural fibers rugs requires
)
special drying rooms with both top and bottom air movement systems pg
Your rug receives additional damage from wall-to-wall carpet cleaners because the
natural fibers absorb the harsh detergents and buffering agents directly into the
fibers. These harsh chemicals CANNOT be removed without completely submersing
and rinsing the rug in cool water.
Leaving these detergents in your rug’s fibers creates stickiness and imbalanced pH
levels, attracting more soil and causing color change or fading. This is the WORST
thing you can do to your hand made rugs.
Leaving these harsh chemicals in your carpets natural fibers is like putting shampoo
into your own hair and NEVER rinsing it out! But it’s worse for your rug…over
time the buffering agents in the wall-to-wall cleaning solutions break down and
cause dye migrations.
In extreme cases, in home rug cleaning can ruin your rug! (See pages 14, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8)
Myth #4: “The company you give your rug to is the one that will be cleaning
it.”
TRUTH: Very often this is NOT the case, many retail rug dealers say they clean rugs and then
subcontract out the work.
To ensure that your rug is being cleaned as safely and as thoroughly as possible, find
out who their subcontractor is, and if that firm uses the proper cleaning methods and
if your rug is insured while it in their possession.
Myth #5: “Rugs don’t need to be cleaned BEFORE they are stored.”
TRUTH: Never store your fine rugs UNTIL AFTER they have been professionally cleaned.
We heard and seen countless horror stories of heirs finding their inheritance or a
cherished family heirloom rug, totally destroyed from bad storage procedures.
Rugs are unrolled and found - riddled with moth or rodent holes, covered with
mildew damage, moisture caused dye migrations, or worse yet - pet urine or feces
stains that have faded the dyes and are set forever because the rugs were stored dirty
and in uncontrolled heated storage environments.” (See page 10, 3, 4)
“I’ve been investing and collecting rugs for years… I can’t believe
how soft and vibrant our rugs look after your hand washing process.
They have never looked or felt better.
Your results would have been a bargain at twice the price, it’s the
best I’ve ever seen, now that you’ve done our rugs in our winter
home is Paradise Valley… I’ll be sending you the rugs from our
home in Saint Paul, Minnesota.
Knowing that I’m a very particular house keeper and vacuum our
oriental rugs every week my husband and I were stunned to see how
much dirt you took out of the rugs before you started cleaning them…
that vibrational massager of yours does an incredible job. Now I
know why the wall to wall carpet cleaner we used once did such a
poor job… we’ll never let anyone but you touch our investment rugs
again.”
Mary Richardson
“Protecting Your Fine Hand Made
Rug Investments”
and
“The Holiday Emergency
Rug Care Guide”
Table of Contents
“The Proprietary Pure Water 7 Step Scientific Hand
Wash - Rug Cleaning Process
“Rules For Rug Storage”
Additional Specialty Services:
•
•
•
•
•
Pages
1-9
10
10 -11
Padding
Enzyme Treatments to Sanitize Pet Stains
Fringe Repair and Replacement
Side Cord Repair
Velcro Hanging
• Moth Repellant
Top 3 Reasons Why Waiting To Clean Your Rugs Can
Destroy Their Beauty And Value
12
How Often Should You Vacuum And Wash Your Fine Rugs
13
Top 3 Reasons You Should NEVER Use A Wall-To-Wall Carpet
Cleaner The Good, The Bad and The Ugly About Carpet Cleaners
14-15
Mini Glossary of Rug Terms
16-17
Holiday Rug Care Tips - Survival Guide
18-20
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Putting Together Your Rug Care Survival Kit
Grocery Store Products that Ruin Your Rugs
How to Dye Test Your Rugs BEFORE Accidents Happen
Food and Drink Spills
Pet Puddles and Kitty Catastrophes
Special Information about Pet Stains
Candle Wax
Potted Plant Dangers
Rug Rotation
“The Proprietary
Pure Water
7 Step Scientific
Hand Wash - Rug
Cleaning Process”
“Where 2000 Year Old - Proven Rug
Cleaning Traditions Are Improved With
Modern Science And Technology.”
Protecting Your Fine Hand Made Rug Investment (Page 1)
www.Norma’sRugCleaning.com
480-814-1657
Step 1 - Creating the Pre-Cleaning Inspection and Rug Condition Report
When you see how detailed our “pre-cleaning inspection process” is you’ll know you’ve
brought your rug investment to the right place. When you visit out “Rug Inspection Room” you’ll
notice we use “special high intensity focused lighting” to examine each rug. This lets you and
our specially trained inspectors see the true picture of your rug’s condition.
Our rug care specialist’s hand-inspect “every inch” of your fine rug, going from the fringe to
the backing and record its current condition - in 38 separate areas. This detailed inspection
accomplishes two things: first, it flags any areas of concern for our cleaning team, and second, it
gives you a current detailed explanation of the condition of your investment.
You’ll then get a “written copy” of this report BEFORE we start the cleaning process!
Step 2 - Getting the Dirt Out - “The Magical Harmonic Dusting Massage”
Would you like a 30-minute massage? How about if I told you 40,000 vibration fingers
would be harmonically loosening up your tired muscles every minute for the whole 30 minutes?
Sounds great doesn’t it!
We’ll that’s the kind of spa treatment your rug is going to get. Not because it will appreciate
the massage, but because that’s the very best way to get all the deep down dirt and dust out of the
fibers and backing of your rug. Dirt and pollutants left in the rug continue to wear and destroy
the natural fibers The KEY is: If you don’t get all the dirt out you just end up making “mud-inthe-rug” as soon as it touches water
Remember when I told you our “Scientific Cleaning Process” combines the best
“Time -Tested Old World Care” with the best “Modern Technology”
this is a prime example of that special combination at Norma’s Rug Cleaning.
For thousands of years the preferred way to “Prepare A Rug For Cleaning” was to beat it all
day, so all the dirt, dust and crud could be lifted out of the fibers and backing. Then the rug
would be submerged into a cool river or lake for a low temperature submersion bath and careful
rinsing.
“A Few of The Keys To Protecting Your Fine Rug Investments”
• The more time taken in preparing a rug for cleaning - the better the results.
• The time-tested first step in cleaning hand made rugs for 1,000’s of years has been
vibrating the dirt out - by hand beating the rug thousands and thousands of times.
(Usually 1-2 people would hand beat a large rug for an entire day.)
• When dirt, dust, pollen, allergens, pet hair or crud gets WET - it sticks in your
rug, and then its becomes almost impossible to remove. This is #1 reason why wallto-wall carpet cleaners do more harm than good when cleaning hand made rugs.
• Vacuuming alone or air jetting CANNOT loosen deep down ground in dirt or get
to the years of accumulated dirt matted at the fiber base in your rug’s backing.
We’ve taken this time-tested old world way of vibrating the dirt out of a rug with hand
beaters and improved it with today’s modern technology. Norma’s is the only firm in the
southwest to have invested in this custom-made gentle harmonic rug vibrating system. This
harmonic vibrating machine acts like an “army of gentle rug beaters” carefully loosening the
deep down dirt out of both the front and backing of your rug.
480-814-1657
This custom made vibrating massager gently removes the dirt from your rug with
40,000 gentle harmonic vibrations per minute … that means your rug will receive
“over 1,000,000 (1 million) gentle dirt loosening- vibrations during its massage.”
These vibrations remove the dirt, BEFORE the rug every touches water.
This process takes at least 30 minutes for a small rug and can take hours on larger rugs.
Take a look at this example below:
“We thoroughly vacuumed this rug first, then we gently massaged it for 30 minutes going
over every inch - front and back. Now look at how much EMBEDDED DIRT the harmonic
massage process removed AFTER the rug had been thoroughly vacuumed. All that dirt would
have turned into MUD if a wall-to-wall carpet-cleaner or dry cleaner touched this rug, or if we
didn’t use the special harmonic massage process.” *** PLEASE NOTE: This rug came from a
meticulous $1,000,000 home, because of the owners allergies - the owners staff vacuumed every week.
The gray matt is like a
specially designed
massage table the lets
the dirt fall away from
the rug as its
massaged by our
custom made machine.
This picture demonstrates
how much embedded dirt
hides from your vacuum
cleaner - but it can’t hide
from our custom made
“harmonic dirt removing
massage machine”.
“It’s a little hard to see in the picture - but many times we literally get pounds of
“fiber destructive” dirt, dust, pollen, pet hair, and allergens out of a single rug.
Imagine the harm all this dirt has been doing to this rug year after year!”
Even wall mounted
rugs can hold pounds
of pollen, dirt, dust
pet dander, hair
and allergens.
Notice the
“Cutting Edges”
in these
Grains of Sand
(Magnified 150x)
As we mentioned before, at the microscopic level dirt acts like “tiny sharp
cutting blades” slicing away at the fibers and foundation of your rug.
This is why rugs that are not cleaned regularly get wear patterns and
needlessly wear out and lose fibers - destroying their beauty and value!
480-814-1657
Step 3 - Comprehensive Dye Testing - “We Test the Stability of Every Color in
Your Rug!”
Dye testing is done to determine the stability of the dyes used in your rug. Most fibers are
dyed using a Mordant Process, which is a chemical reaction that binds the dye to the fiber.
“If the dyes are not stable, they will bleed as soon as they get wet
and - one unstable color can ruin an entire rug!”
(Make sure you get a copy of our HOLIDAY Rug Emergency Guide…
it tells you what to do if someone spills a drink on your fine rug.)
Unfortunately there’s NO way to know if the dyes in your rug are stable, unless we
individually test them. Some weavers never use a mordant stabilizing process so when the rug
gets wet, the dyes move and migrate onto other colors in your rug… destroying its beauty and
depreciating its value.
Every hand made rug is unique, and the dyes used in an
individual rug are unique too. These dyes may be natural dyes,
man-made synthetics, or a combination of both.
“ Because of these variations - every color, in every rug
MUST be dye tested for stability
BEFORE the rug is cleaned.”
We individually dye test EVERY color in your rug - that
means if your rug has 20 colors then we do 20 individual dye
tests. We test the dyes to make certain that they are stable
and that we can set them - during our washing process.
Color testing is a very time consuming process, AND an
absolutely necessary part of our profession museum quality
cleaning program.
“Each color test, for each individual color, may take
from 1-2 hours or as long as 24 hours.”
We individually hand test
every color in your fine rug
for dye stability - if your rug
has 20 colors then we do
20 individual tests.
We test a color, and then we watch, for as long as it takes until the job is done right. Some
dyes take as long as 24 hours to migrate. We’re looking at each individual color for its
“individual dye stability”.
We want to know BEFORE the wash process, (before anything gets wet) if any of the colors
are unstable and might migrate on to the other colors in your rug. It’s good to be cautious!
“Rugs like Tabriz, Moraccans and Navajo can really give you problems.
Their dyes move and migrate because they were originally made in arid areas
where there is very little water, no rivers or lakes, so the dyes in
the yarns - have NOT been stabilized and hold so much color
that they bleed immediately whenever they get wet.”
480-814-1657
A Brief Overview of Rug Dyes
Natural Dyes
Until the late nineteenth century only natural dyes were used for coloring weaving yarns.
Natural dyes include plant dyes, animal dyes, and mineral dyes.
Plant Dyes
come from roots, flowers, leaves, fruit, and bark of plants. Woad, a plant of the
mustard family, and indigo, a bush from the pea family, are used for blue dye.
Yellow is produced from saffron, safflower, sumac, turmeric, onionskin, rhubarb,
weld, and fustic. Madder has been used since ancient times for reds. Redwood and
Brazilwood are also used for reds. Browns and blacks come from catechu dye,
oak bark, oak galls, acorn husks, tea, and walnut husks. Henna is used for orange.
For green, indigo over-dyed with any of a variety of yellow dyes is used.
Animal Dyes Come from animal sources that include insects such as Cochineal, found on cacti
in Mexico; Lac, a wild version of Cochineal, found in India and Iran; and Kermes,
found on Oak trees near the Mediterranean. All three produce a range of reds.
Mineral Dyes Come from ocher (yellow, brown, red), limestone or lime (white), manganese
(black), cinnabar and lead oxide (red), azurite and lapis lazuli (blue), and
malachite (green).
Synthetic Dyes
In the mid-nineteenth century, as the demand for handmade rugs increased in the West, their
production increased in the East. The need for easy-to-use and less expensive dyes with wider
range of colors caused the development of synthetic dyes in Europe.
Synthetic dyes were soon imported to Persia (Iran), Anatolia (Turkey), and other Eastern
countries. The first synthetic dye, Fuchsine (a magenta aniline), was developed in the 1850s.
Shortly after, other synthetic aniline dyes followed.
Chrome dyes are colorfast (any dye that retains its intensity despite
exposure to light and water), and are produced in an infinite variety
of attractive colors and shades.
•
•
•
Today, mostly chrome synthetic dyes are used for coloring weaving yarns.
Natural dyes are used in places where they are easily obtainable.
Sometimes the two are combined together in the same rug, and the weavers use the best
type of dye available to them. In some cases they can find good quality dyes in nature,
and in other cases they get better results from the synthetic dyes.
“The ONLY way to know if your rug’s dyes are stable
is to have each color individually tested … professional
testing for a dye stability and migration can take
from 1-2 hours (per color) or as long as 24 hours.”
480-814-1657
Step 4 The Purified Water- Full Submersion Hand Shampoo Cleaning Process
By the time we get to Step 4 your fine rug has been with us for a while: we’ve carefully
evaluated its conditions, removed all the deep down dirt and dust with our 40,000 per minute
vibration massage, and spent up to 24 hours testing each and every color for dye stability.
“Now that all the proper preparation is done
it’s time for the rug’s cool, submersion soaking bath.”
If you really want to get your rug clean, you have to follow
the 2000 year old cleaning traditions of Totally Submersing
the rug. For thousands of years rug owners have taken their
rugs to rivers and lakes to totally submerse and clean them in cool water. Cool water is very important - but it can be
improved.
We’ve taken this proven cleaning tradition and made it better!
Our soaking submersion process produces
“BABY SOFT “ feeling rugs - BECAUSE
we use Reverse Osmosis PURIFIED WATER.
We’re 1 of only 2 museum quality fine rug-cleaning companies
in the whole United States who use this totally purified water.
This is the type of pure water NASA & Intel clean rooms use.
This is our purified water
submersion tank that
creates baby soft rugs.
Because the water is totally purified - the mild shampoos clean better and the rugs
fibers rinse cleaner. Tap water leaves chorine, calcium, and other minerals in your
rug - that’s why rugs cleaned with un-purified water feel stiffer and harder after
they’re cleaned. You just can’t get the minerals out… unless you use totally purified water!
Our “purified water-total submersion process” breaks down and flushes out all the impurities,
and any remaining deep down dirt and dust that are trapped in the rug’s fibers and foundation.
In addition, special enzyme soaks can be used at this point to remove and totally sanitize pet
stains and urine spots.
“The scientific fact is that your rug is made of natural hair fibers, just like your own hair,
so we ONLY use Ph balanced mild shampoos. Natural fibers cannot take the
same kind of harsh cleaning solutions that synthetic man-made carpets can.”
We never use the hot water, and harsh detergents compounds that wall-to-wall carpet
cleaners use on synthetic carpets. These harsh cleaners have buffering agents that break down in
your rug and cause fading, sun damage and destroy the fibers, depreciating your rugs beauty and
value. Our entire submersion / cleaning process goes like this:
1- Submerge the rug for a long soaking in cool purified water.
2- Add sanitizing enzymes if pet stains and urine need to be removed.
3- Drain the tank and hand shampoo the back of the rug.
4- Turn the rug over and hand shampoo the front of the rug
1.
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.
Step 5 - Purified Water Rinsing and Our Massive Custom Wringer In Action
Now that your rug has been gently shampooed,
its time for the total submersion rinse.
Again, ONLY purified R/O (reverse osmosis ) water us used
in the rinsing process, so your rug dries baby soft and its colors
stays as bright as possible.
Now your rug has to be “prepared for the drying process”.
Most rug shops try to just “squeegee out” the excess water but
the fact is that this can be dangerous for your rug.
Oriental rugs are liable to grow mildew if they remain damp
for too long. Therefore a quick drying time is vital, especially
when dealing with wool fibers, which absorb and hold 70% of their weight in moisture.
To facilitate a faster and safer
drying time for your rugs we’ve
purchased one of the
largest hydraulic wringers
in the United States.
This custom made machine gets
90% of the moisture out of your rug
BEFORE we take it into
the drying room.
“This mighty hydraulic wringer, made back in the 1950’s, is one of the few remaining of
its kind in operation today. We researched the process and after a long search found this
classic unit, then we totally rebuilt and carefully refurbished it - to its brand new condition.
We love using it, because it really gets all the moisture out of your rug FAST!
This unique “quality control step” dramatically reduces a rug’s drying time so there’s
NO chance of the remaining moisture in your “baby soft clean rug”, turning into mildew.”
After the wringer eliminates most of the
moisture we then HAND GROOM your
rug so all the fibers flow smoothly in the
same direction as the nap of the rug.
It’s just like grooming the natural fibers on
your pet so they dry with a natural look and
a uniform flow.
After the hand grooming your rug goes in
to one of our “environmentally controlled”
drying rooms.
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Step 6 The 3 “Controlled Environment”
Drying Room Techniques
Depending on the style and condition of your
rug several different drying methods may be used.
Quick Drying Times and plenty of “Air Movement”
are the keys to a successful drying process.
Your rug must be completely dried on both the
front and back sides, this requires constant attention
and inspection to make sure the dyes are not
moving and the drying process is properly done. (1)
2
1
Hanging rugs in the drying room is not
always the most appropriate drying
method. Drying on a blocking table is more
suitable for rugs prone to losing their shape
when wet, typically needle point, crewel,
flat weaves, and dhurri rugs. (2)
We use “stainless steel” blocking pegs to
secure your rug for proper drying to avoid
any possible color contamination.
Notice how the air movers are blowing into a raised frame on this blocking table,
this allows the back and the top of the rug to quickly dry at the same time.
Q: How long does it take to properly air
dry the natural fibers in a fine
cashmere or wool sweater?
A: A full day.
Even with air movers, rugs take longer
because the natural fibers hold moisture
“inside the knots” that make up the entire
rug. (Wool holds on to over 70% of its weight.)
3
That’s the reason that even after a rug
feels dry to the touch we hang it over air
movers to make sure it’s absolutely,
100%, completely, dry. (3)
Improper drying, from a cleaning or a spill at home, is the #1 thing that destroys a rugs value.
480-814-1657
Step 7 Final Hand Grooming
The final step is the cleaning process is hand grooming your rug.
This process includes brushing the entire rug and then hand
washing and them hand grooming the fringe.
Grooming your rug allows its pile to lay smooth, much like
an animal’s fur. Every rug has a unique and definite direction
to its pile - this is caused by the position of the rug on the
loom during the weaving process.
“Fringe is very important component of any rug,
because it’s an extension of the warp yarns,
that make up the foundation of your rug.”
Many times the fringe is cleaned a second time with a mild
shampoo. We NEVER use chlorine bleach, like many shops,
to clean your rugs fringe. Bleach prematurely ages and wears
out natural fibers.
If you destroy the fringe you’re destroying the base for the entire rug!
Bleaching is a unnecessary short cut that causes breakdowns and deterioration of the rugs
foundation fibers and can lead to problems or expensive repairs.
Special attention is given to preserve and enhance the appearance of the fringe, since
damaged fringe can lead to the deterioration of your rug’s structure.
Now your rug is ready for a trip:
(1) Either it goes back to beautify your home or office /
or
(2) It’s ready for environmentally controlled safe storage.
480-814-1657
“Rules for Rug Storage”
Never store your fine rugs UNTIL AFTER they have been professionally cleaned.
“We heard and seen countless horror stories of heirs finding their inheritance
or a cherished family heirloom rugs, totally destroyed from bad storage procedures.
Rugs are unrolled and found - riddled with moth or rodent holes,
covered with mildew damage, moisture caused dye migrations, or worse yet pet urine or feces stains that have faded the dyes and are set forever because
the rugs were stored dirty and in uncontrolled heated storage environments.”
Our environmentally controlled storage procedures includes:
1. The 7 Step Scientific Hand Cleaning Process,
2. Odorless Moth Proofing (Approved for use by the Textile Museum),
3. And wrapping your fine rug in special acid free Tyvek paper to stop dye migrations.
4. All rugs are photographed (before and after the wash) and receive a complete 38 point
“Conditions Evaluation” noting any structural damage, permanent stains, or other
concerns. This information becomes part of the permanent record and is placed in the
inventory file for insurance purposes.
“All rugs are independently insured while we store them in our facilities.”
“Please ask us for a detailed description our insured fine rug storage services:
• Whether you’re rotating your rug collection,
• Wanting to securely store your valuable rugs - while you spend the summer season
• in another home,
• Or just want to safely secure a cherished family heirloom in a controlled environment.”
We also accept, clean, and store rugs from “out-of-state” in our Tempe facility.
Additional “Specialty Services”
To Enhance The Beauty and To Protect
The Integrity and Value of Your Fine Rugs
1- Padding For Hand Made Rugs is a NECESSITY.
Even though hand made oriental rugs have a remarkable ability to withstand wear, and their
life span far exceeds that of machine made rugs, padding makes them last longer and look better
while it protects your floors and other carpeting!
Padding acts as a “shock absorber ” absorbing foot traffic impact - so the carpet pile does not
wear down prematurely, leading to the breakdown of the rugs foundation,
With a proper pad the underside of your rug won’t wear out … AND
1. The rug will be softer to walk on,
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2. The rug will not move, buckle, wrinkle, or cause slipping on smooth floors,
3. Pads provide increased air-flow when you vacuum so your rugs will stay cleaner,
4. AND more importantly, any dirt rests on the pad NOT in the rug.
As you’ve learned it’s the dirt that causes premature wear - and by keeping your rug
insulated with proper padding, you will extend its life, beauty and value.
“Pads pay for themselves by protecting your rug
and maintaining and your families safety.”
2- Enzyme Treatment To Naturalize Pet Urine and Feces Stains
To remove odors from your rugs - the first thing we need to do is to remove the “Odor
Causing Bacteria.” Soaking the rug allows us to gently remove the urine salts from the fibers.
Then an enzyme treatment is applied to aid in this process.
Unfortunately because urine and vomit go on to rugs “hot and acidic” - they may alter the
dyes in the rug causing discoloration. See out Holiday Rug Care Tips - for immediately dealing
with pet emergencies.
3- Fringe Hiding or Replacement
Many people what their rugs to look symmetrical and perfect. But hand made fringe and tassels
just don’t always lay the way you want them. The mistake people make is cutting off the tassels
or fringe - not realizing that they have just cut the foundation of the rug into pieces.
If you want your rug’s fringe hidden or repaired please give us a call and we’ll explain how to
get the process done right to protect your rungs values and beauty
4- Side Cord Repair
The outer foundation threads on hand woven rugs are thicker wrap threads, sometimes a group of
threads, designed to hold the shape of the rug. This salvage wrapping can be worn off by foot
traffic over time and expose the wrap yarns, which will lead to costly repairs.
5- Velcro Hanging for Textiles
Its takes a special set up and technique to properly hang a hand made rug. We see many rugs that
have been destroyed or in need of costly repairs because they did not use proper hanging
techniques. Velcro straps need to be attached to the rug with hand stitching to secure the strap to
the base of the rug. This allows the rug to lay smooth against the wall.
6- Moth Repellent
This service can be applied to rugs before storage or in areas of the country where moths are a
problem. We use an Odorless Moth Proofing (Approved for use by the Textile Museum).
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“The Top 3 Reasons Why Waiting To Clean Your Fine Hand Made
Rugs Can Destroy Their Beauty and Value”
#3 You have to deal with pet stains right away, to avoid rug damage and unsanitary conditions.
• Pet urine and vomit goes on HOT and ACIDIC, so it penetrates the rug fibers completely.
• Because hand made rug dyes are “acidic dyes” this means the pet urine essentially
“RE-DYES” the fibers yellow and then sets itself.
• If this is NOT dealt with immediately, stains can be PERMANENT.
#2 Carpets and area rugs act like filters and trap insects, dirt, dander, pollutants, and bacteria in
the fibers. Without proper cleaning these breed in the carpet’s fiber - affecting indoor air quality.
#1 Dirt cuts into your rugs fibers like a knife. Every time you walk on a dirty rug the minerals in
the dirt and dust actually etch (scratch & cut ) the fibers until the luster and resiliency are worn
away.
Harder materials always destroy softer materials, so the more dirt in your
rugs the faster they wear out and lose their beauty and value.
The dirt in your rug can be almost as hard as a diamond.
FYI - How Hard Are The Minerals Cutting The Fibers In Your Rug
Hardness can be tested through scratching. A scratch on a mineral is actually a groove
produced by microfractures on the surface of the mineral. It requires either the breaking of bonds
or the displacement of atoms (as in the metallic bonded minerals).
A mineral can only be scratched by a harder substance. A hard mineral can scratch a softer
mineral, but a soft mineral can not scratch a harder mineral (no matter how hard you try).
Therefore, a relative scale can be established to account for the differences in hardness
simply by seeing which mineral scratches another. That is exactly what French mineralogist
Friedrich Mohs proposed almost one hundred and seventy years ago.
The Mohs Hardness Scale starting with talc at 1 and ending with diamond at 10, is
universally used around the world as a way of distinguishing minerals.
Simply put: the higher the number, the harder the mineral.
1. Talc
2. Gypsum
3. Calcite
4. Fluorite
5. Apatite
6. Orthoclase
7. Quartz
8. Topaz
9. Corundum
10. Diamond
= baby powder
= fingernail at 2.5 (sheet rock in the walls)
= copper (old penny) at 3.5 and Marble
= window glass or typical knife blade at under 5.5
= steak plate or good steel file at over 6.5
= typical sand, rock particles (cement dust)
= granite
“The natural fibers of your rug
would be softer than Talc!”
Notice the “Cutting
Edges” in A Grain of
Sand Magnified 150x
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Vacuuming - Dusting - Washing / Schedules
Your Hand Made Oriental Rugs
Here are some rug care tips and guidelines to help you keep your rugs
looking great, staying cleaner, and lasting longer.
DUSTING and CLEANING
Vacuuming your rugs is the BEST thing that you can do to keep your rugs in great shape in
between cleanings. Think of all the dust that daily settles on to your hard floors … that same dust
settles on your rugs and needs to be removed, otherwise it works its way into the fibers and
causes damage you cannot correct. (Remember the sharp dirt magnifications)
However, you do not want to overly “brush” these fibers, so the best tool to use is a canister
vacuum cleaner, or the upholstery attachment on your upright HEPA-filter vacuum cleaner, and
just run it over the top of the rug fibers. Vacuum WITH, not against, the nap of the rug’s “fuzzy”
side. (The rug’s fibers are similar to your pet’s fur – you know when you are petting with the nap, and when
you are not. Going “with” it causes less friction.)
If a lot of dirt seems to be collecting on the rug – like on your entryway rugs – then turn these
rugs fuzzy side down and run an upright beater bar vacuum along the back side (stay away from
the fringe tassels or you’ll suck them up!).
This “shakes” the dirt out of the base of the rug’s foundation, and then you can flip the rug
over and vacuum away all of the dust, dirt, allergens, mold spores, bacteria, and other
“unmentionables” that have been brought into your home by lots of shoes, feet and paws.
How Often Should Your Vacuum and Wet Wash Your Fine Rugs?
Traffic
Vacuum
Total Submersion
Rugs Locations
Frequency
Hand Washing Frequency
High Traffic Rugs
Entry & Hall Ways
Moderate Use Rugs
Medium Traffic
Low or No Use Rugs
or Hanging Rugs
Vacuum 2
Times Week
Vacuum 1 Time
a Week
Vacuum Every 2 Weeks
Bi-Weekly
Wet Wash
Every 1-2 years*
Wet Wash
Every 2-3 years*
Wet Wash
Every 3-4 years*
* If you are diligent with your vacuum routine you can be on the higher end of the time lines.
Rugs In Rooms With Children and / or Pet Activity
Here’s the Math: ADD “the number of kids” + “the number of pets” = the number of times you
should vacuum these rugs every week. “Wet Wash” these rugs every year.
Rugs collect allergens, bacteria, and chemicals in their fibers, so if you have kids or pets low to
the ground, it’s healthier for them if you keep these areas as irritant-free as possible.
(This is also the guideline for rooms frequented by people with strong dust mite allergies.
Having your rugs, carpeting, and bed linens treated with
an all-natural Anti-Allergen Treatment is also recommended.)
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Top 3 Reasons Why You Should NEVER Use A Wall-To-Wall
Commercial Carpet Cleaning Company, Or Grocery Store Shampoo Machine
To Clean Your Fine Oriental Carpets.
Reason #1 The Fibers Are Different (Think polyester vs. fine wool or cashmere)
99.9% of the carpets in today’s homes or offices are made of synthetic materials, (nylon,
rayon, polyester blends) that do-not really absorb moisture or stains. The dirt and stains kind of
lay on the outside of the synthetic fibers waiting to be flushed away.
So when a wall-to-wall cleaner applies harsh detergents, hot water, and pressurized rinses
they’re trying to duplicate what happens in your washing machine… they are attempting to lift
the dirt off the fibers, suspend it, and then flush it away. That works great for synthetic fibers!
BUT your fine hand-made rugs are made of natural fibers. And natural fibers absorb water,
and all the detergents and buffering agents in the commercial cleaning solutions, directly into the
fibers - they literally hold these chemicals inside the fibers, inside the knots and inside every inch
of the rug.
These contaminating detergents cannot be washed away WITHOUT totally submersing the
rug in a cool water rinse.
Reason #2 Not Enough Moisture To Flush The Dirt Out and The Detergents
Away.
You don’t need much moisture to dampen a synthetic carpet, just enough to loosen the dirt
on the surface of the carpet fibers so it can be flushed away. Because the fibers don’t absorb very
much moisture the carpet cleaner can vacuum up the excess moisture and the rug can dry before
it mildews.
So natural fiber rugs absorb moisture like sponges. So now the commercial carpet cleaner has
a problem: Either they use enough water to thoroughly flush out the carpet and flood your house,
OR they just use enough moisture to clean the surface, and hope you don’t notice.
Think of it this way - “surface cleaning is like taking a bath with a baby wipe”
it looks good for a little while - but its really not clean.”
The other problem with surface cleaning is that the deep down dirt that destroys the fibers in
your rug and ultimately destroys its value can’t be removed with s surface cleaning so they
continue to cut the fibers and pre-maturely wear out your investment.
Reason #3 HEAT & Dye Bleeding
Commercial carpet cleaners use heat, pressure, and harsh detergents to clean man-made
fibers. Natural fiber (wool, jute, cotton) hand made rugs do NOT like HOT water.
For thousands of years rugs were traditionally cleaned in the cool water of rivers and lakes
for several reasons: first cool water helps preserve the colors of the dyes, and second hot water
can cause immediate dye migration and dye bleeding - ruining your rugs value.
Unfortunately not all dyes are stable, and dyes can bleed immediately from hot water or the
hot water can cause a slow bleed that happens as the rug dries. (This kind of damage may take as
long as 24 hours, after the rug is wet, to appear.)
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The Good, the Bad and the Ugly Truth About Carpet Cleaners
Myth:
“Any wall-to-wall carpet cleaning company can clean your oriental rugs.
TRUTH: On site cleaners only clean the surface of your rug, they can’t deeply clean a hand
made rug because they CAN NOT completely saturate the rug’s fibers; primarily
because their equipment is NOT designed to remove that much water from natural
fibers.
Think about it, natural fibers ABSORB water, synthetic fibers DO NOT… wall-towall carpet cleaning systems are made for synthetic fibers, because the synthetic
carpet fibers do not absorb any water the equipment can easily vacuum up the
remaining moisture.
BUT when the same equipment is used on natural fibers the water is drawn into the
natural fibers like a sponge - where it can take days to dry out resulting in both
mildew damage and dye bleeding.
Your rug receives additional damage from wall-to-wall carpet cleaners because the
natural fibers absorb the harsh detergents and buffering agents directly into the
fibers. These harsh chemicals CANNOT be removed without completely submersing
and rinsing the rug in cool water.
Leaving these detergents in your rug’s fibers creates stickiness and imbalanced pH
levels, attracting more soil and causing color change or fading. This is the WORST
thing you can do to your hand made rugs.
Leaving these harsh chemicals in your carpets natural fibers
is like putting shampoo into your own hair and NEVER rinsing it out!
But it’s worse for your rug…over time the buffering agents in the wall-to-wall
cleaning solutions break down and cause dye migrations.
In extreme cases, in home rug cleaning can ruin your rug!
To protect your rug’s beauty, and investment value make sure you do the following:
• Only deal with carpet companies that have certified “Master Textile Technicians” on site.
• Make sure every color in your rug is individually dye tested BEOFRE it every touches
water.
• Only use rug-cleaning companies that use a cool, purified water, submersion cleaning
process.
• Make sure that all the dirt is removed, from the base to the backing BEFORE your rug
every touches water.
• Make sure that your rug cleaner has special drying room, moisture wringer, and dual
sided drying system… to protect your rug from mildew in the drying process.
• Make sure the cleaning agents are Ph friendly and made for natural fibers.
“Only Work With Companies That Offer You
A Written Satisfaction Guarantee.”
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Rug Terms - Mini Glossary
Abrash: Change or variation in the color of a rug due to differences in the wool or dye bath. The
effect of abrash is subtle shading differences. In older or antique rugs, abrash occurs naturally.
In new rugs, both machine made and handmade, Abrash is carefully created by changing the
color of the yarns to mimic a vintage look.
Border: A design that surrounds the field in an oriental rug.
Bukhara: (Bokhara) For centuries, a center of Muslim learning and spirituality, and the principal
trading point for Turkmen tribal carpets; many Turkman carpets as a result have erroneously
been called "Bukhara."
Cartooning: the practice of sketching the design of a rug on the foundation fibers before
weaving.
Chain Stitch: A crochet stitch used in rug construction that consists of successive loops to lock
the final weft in place at the end of a rug.
Chemical Wash applying chemicals (line, chlorine compound, wood ash) to soften the colors
and wools and to increase the sheen of a rug,
Doruksh: Jufti knotted Qainat carpets in the floral city style.
Dozar: A Persian name used to describe approximately a 4.6 x 6.6 size carpet.
Dry rot: After many years the rug becomes dry and brittle, or liquids or moisture on a rug for an
extended time can cause the rug to become dry rot.
Endless Knot: A buddhist emblem symbolizing long duration, often used with other symbols.
Field: The part of a rug's design surrounded by the border. The field may be blank or contain
medallions or an over-all pattern.
Flat Weave: Weaving in which no knots are used. The weft strands are simply passed through
the warp strands. For example a Kilim, Cicim or Soumac.
Flokati hand woven shaggy wool pile rugs woven in Greece dating back 200 years.
Foundation: The warp and weft is the basis/foundation of a rug.
Garden Design: Panel designs throughout the field woven with floral motifs, particularly found
in a Persian Bahktiari.
Ground: Background color which sets off the principle design motif of the rug.
Hand Knotted: Rug made by weavers who knot pile yarns around the warp fibers that run the
length of the rug. Generally, the more knots per square inch, the more valuable the rug.
Hand: Tactile qualities of a fabric including softness, stiffness, rough, scratchy, etc.
Hand-made: Constructed by hand. The category can include hand knotted, hand tufted, hand
hooked, needlepoint, aubusson and hand loomed rugs.
Ketken: plant used as a mordant in treating yarn before dyeing.
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Kizyl: (Turkmen) red.
Knot Count: The number of knots in a square inch of a rug. Hand made Chinese rugs are often
described in terms of "line." A 65 Line rug would have 65 knots per foot of width, 65 knots per
foot of length, and 29 knots per square inch. Knot makes the pile or nap of a carpet and
distinguishes it from the machine made and flatweaves.
Knot: A knot is formed when wool, cotton or silk yarn is looped around the warp threads. There
are different procedures for knotting and each knot type has a name, for example there is a
Turkish (Ghiordes) knot and a Persian (Sennah) knot.
Knotted Pile: The type of weaving most associated with oriental rugs in which tufts of wool
forming pile are wrapped around one or more (usually two) warps to project at right angles to
the plane of the weaving. They are tied individually, one row at a time, and held in place by
ground wefts. The process is to be distinguished from the making of hooked rugs in which tufts
of wool are poked into pre-existing loosely woven fabric.
Konya: important Anatolian weaving and cultural centre.
Kork Wool: The very finest quality wool obtained from the shoulder and flanks of shearling
lambs.
KPSI (Knots per square inch): Number of knots per square inch rates the knot quality.
Mordant: From the Latin 'to bite', the term describes a substance used to prepare wool or silk
for dyeing. The mordant attaches to receptor sites on the surface of protein fibers and makes a
chemical bridge between the dyestuff and fiber. The most common mordants are alum and iron
sulfite. Madder and the yellow plant dyes require a mordant, whereas indigo does not.
Natural Dyes: Dyes derived from insects or from the earth, which includes madder root, indigo,
milkweed, pomegranate, cutch and cochineal.
Oxidizes: With excess sunlight exposure rug colors can change to a brown or black color.
Persian Knot: Looped around one thread with only a half-turn around the other thread.
Pile: The nap of the rug or the tufts remaining after the knotted yarns are clipped.
Senneh Knot: Persian knot.
Senneh: Fine Kurdish rug.
Shiraz: SW Iran major rug collecting centre.
Tea Washed: Rugs that have an over dyed with adye to give then an antique look.
Warp: Beginning part of a rug where wool, cotton or silk strands are attached to a Loom
vertically, following the length of a rug. Comprising the structure, parallel wrap yarns run the
length of the rug and are interlaced with wefts.
Weft: Threads woven from left to right in between rows of wool knots to keep them in place and
even.
For A Larger Glossary Please Go To Our Web Site
http://wwwNormasRugCleaning.com
480-814-1657
Fine Hand Made Oriental Rug
“The Holiday Emergency Rug Care Guide”
The Bad News Is: “Accidents Happen”
The Good News Is: “That With a Little Preparation and Knowledge They
Don’t Have To Ruin Your Fine Hand Made Rugs.”
Rug Care Items You Have To Have On Hand:
1. White Terry Cloth Towels
2. White Vinegar and Cool Water (50/50)
3. Small Bowlss and Sponge
4. Soft Brush (Not Too Stiff)
5. Club Soda
6. Hair Dryer
7. ** If You’re A Pet Owner or guests bring pets PureAyre Enzyme (www.pureayre.com)
or Nature’s Miracle® enzyme treatment (sold in pet stores)
WARNING:
“DO NOT use these products on hand made rugs!”
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Wool / Silk / Cotton
Baking Soda
Bleech
Folex
Oxyclean
Resolve
Salt
Simple Green
• Woolite
Causes
You’ll be risking:
1. Color Loss,
2. Discolorations,
3. Permanent Yellowing,
4. Fiber Damage
5. And Dye Bleeding
You Need to TEST Your Rugs Before Accidents Happen
Testing Your Rug For “Migrating” or “Fugitive Dyes”
If Norma’s Rug Cleaning has NEVER cleaned them.
If you have had your rug cleaned with us you will already have a written
report on what dyes in your rug are suspected fugitives or might migrate.
1. Run HOT WATER from the faucet, and wet a portion of a white towel.
2. Wring out the excess water so the towel is damp NOT wet.
3. BEND open an area of the rug with the “suspect” colors that you think may migrate or be
fugitives.
4. Press the damp towel INSIDE the fibers - not just on the surface tips.
5. HOLD STILL for 10-15 seconds. (Don’t move the towel or you may move the dye.)
6. Remove the towel and see if there has been any color transfer.
7. If there has been a color transfer - they you have migrating or fugitive dyes.
The Holiday Emergency Rug Care Guide (Page 18)
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“If the Dyes are color colorfast and do NOT Migrate”
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
SPOON up solids, or vacuum up dry pieces.
If stain remains, use a sponge to dampen the spill area with CLUB SODA
BLOT are with the cotton towel (NO NOT RUB!)
BLOT until the spill stops transferring to the towel.
Places a folded towel UNDER and OVER the spill area to sandwich it.
Stand on the towel sandwich to help the excess moisture absorb, (wick up).
Use the HAIR DRYER (on the cool setting) to dry and groom the nap of the rug with the
BRUSH.
8. Prop up the rug so both the top and bottom can dry, for several hours so that the fibers on
the inside can dry completely.
“If the Dyes are Fugitives or will Spread or Migrate”
Repeat all the 8 steps above ONLY substitute “VINEGAR+WATER” for the “CLUB SODA”.
Pet Puddles & Kitty Catastrophes
Whether it’s pet vomit or waste:
1. Pick up all the solids. If stains remain, or if the accident
is urine, dampen the area with VINEGAR+WATER.
2. BEND open the fibers and be sure to dampen the fibers all
the way down, not just the tips.
3. BLOT the area with a cotton towel. (DO NOT rub!)
4. BLOT until the yellow urea stops transferring on to the towel.
5. Place a folded towel UNDER and OVER the spill area to make a towel sandwich.
6. Stand on the towel sandwich to help absorb the excess moisture.
7. USE HAIR DRYER (on the cool setting) to dry and groom the nap with the BRUSH.
MIST the top and back-side of the area with PUREAYRE Enzyme Spray or Nature’s
Miracle® enzyme treatment (sold in pet stores)
8. Prop the area up for several hours so that the fibers may dry completely.
Special Information About Pet Stains (FYI)
• Pet urine and vomit goes on HOT and ACIDIC, so it penetrates the rug fibers completely.
• Because hand made rug dyes are acidic dyes this means the pet urine essentially
“RE-DYES” the fibers yellow and then set itself.
• If this is NOT dealt with immediately, stains can be PERMANENT. You can reduce or
remove the odor causing elements with steps 1-8 above.
• OLD pet stains (7+ days) go from acidic to STRONGLY ALKALINE in pH.
• Being the opposite of acid, this actually “DISSOLVES” the rug dyes and can lead to color
loss and dye migration in specific areas.
• Repeated urine contamination not only devalues the rug, it is also a health concern for the
indoor living environment of your home or office.
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Candle Wax
Supplies Needed: Brown Paper Bag, and Iron
• Break off any large pieces before applying any heat.
• Cut a piece of PAPER BAG larger than the was spill and
place over the area.
• With IRON on high setting, run the iron over the bag with short strokes.
• As the was melts into the paper rotate the bag to continue
absorbing the wax,
• Continue until no more was melts into the bag.
Potted Plants
WARNING: POTTED PLANTS
• The leakage of potted plants can inflict costly damage to an Oriental rug.
• The constant seepage or condensation of water on the bottom of a pot causes the
foundation and the pile to rot, mildew, and fall apart.
• NEVER place a potted plant on an Oriental rug, and, be cautious about placing a plant
near one.
•
•
Rug Rotation
Rotating your rugs will help soften sun fading of the fibers.
In rooms with direct sunlight rotate the rugs 2x a year.
480-814-1657

`Protecting Your Fine Rug Investment`.

Transcription

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