FALL 2013 - Hubert White
Transcription
FALL 2013 - Hubert White
Hu b e r t Wh i t e Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2013 FALL FASHION CATCH CABIN FEVER THERE’S AN APP FOR THAT: GOLF GOES DIGITAL JOURNEY TO AFRICA COOL COATS! Hubert White 747 Nicollet Mall Minneapolis, Minnesota 55402-1719 612-339-9200 hubertwhite.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS John Frascone BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO Mac Brighton FEATURES 4 6 12 34 Welcome Letter The Power of New Style: On the Rise Tech: In Full Swing CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Christine Sullivan APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA FASHION 18 1 Suit. 7 Ways. 22 Log House of Style 28 The Fall Guy Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA DEPARTMENTS 10 14 32 38 42 44 Ask Brad Man of Style: All About Al World Scene Food: America’s French Farm Boy Travel: African Adventure End Page: Restaurant Rules Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2013. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE FALL/WINTER 2013 PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 16, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. welcome FALL 2013 FORUM MAGAZINE The power of new: it excites and drives successful businesses, and Hubert White, in its 97th year, is no exception. After our remodel last spring, the shop looked great, business was very strong and we were consistently receiving compliments from our clients and friends. One of the best comments came from an old and loyal client when he said, “Bob, your dad and grand dad would be proud.” It’s really wonderful to have such supportive friends. Thank you all for being such an important part of the Hubert White family. When Neiman Marcus closed in Minneapolis last winter, we were provided with the opportunity to create even more “new.” First we added three key new members to our staff. Paige Will, Dinh Nguyen and Kevin Luedke have joined us and are introduced later in this issue of our Forum Magazine. We’ve also added two iconic lines to our product offerings: Isaia and Brunello Cucinelli. Having them join Ermengildo Zegna, Luciano Barbera, Canali, Zanella and others really completes our Italian presentation, which is certainly unique in the Minnesota trade area. I look forward to seeing you in our remodeled shop, showing off our wonderful new fall merchandise and introducing you to the new members of the Hubert White team. Happy fall, Bob White The power of new I t is a phrase we use often at Hubert White. First conceived by Jack Mitchell in his New York Times best-selling book Hug Your Customers, Jack used it to refer to new merchandise and new trends. For Hubert White it means a newly remodeled store and much more. Three new faces, all former members of the Neiman Marcus team, have joined the Hubert White family. On the pages ahead get to know our “Power of New” Paige Will, Dinh Nguyen and Kevin Luedke. Bob White Paige Will 1. What is your favorite piece of clothing? My next purchase. 5. Favorite fall collection for 2013? Brunello Cucinelli. 2. What is your next clothing purchase? ISAIA Aqua cashmere sport jacket. 6. One word to describe the Hubert White culture? Family. 3. Living in downtown Minneapolis is... Extremely convenient. 7. Mary Lou and you... what is it like to be married to someone with the same career? I don’t have to explain why I am working on my day off. 4. What’s missing from your garage? A 2014 Corvette. Dinh Nguyen 1. When did you decide to become a tailor ? 1987 2. Tell us about your tailoring team. I love my team. We work hard but laugh often. 3. You spend a lot of time on the sales floor with clients. Why? I work with the sales associates to help build the customer’s confidence and create the perfect fit. 4. You have the good fortune to work with your wife Hue. How is it going? We work well together. At work I’m the boss, but at home it is a different story! 5. Your favorite thing to do when you are not at work? I like to be outdoors camping, biking and traveling with my family. 6. You are very well dressed. What piece of clothing do you want to be wearing this fall? A Samuelsohn made-to-measure suit. 7. What tailoring trend should your clients pay special attention to this season? Adapting to the slimmer fits. Kevin Luedke 1. As the footwear manager you are also “the face” of the store, usually the first person a client meets. How is that going? It has been a great opportunity to interact with Hubert White clients. 2. You just graduated from the Minneapolis Institute of Arts. What’s next in your future? My future consists of building a strong shoe business while I continue to improve my graphic design portfolio. 4. The footwear business has been rocking. What excites you about fall footwear? It will be my first complete season at Hubert White and I look forward to putting a personal touch on our assortment. 5. Your next pair of shoes? Gravati. 6. Favorite piece of clothing? Anything ISAIA. 7. You grew up in Rochester, went to school in Minneapolis and now live downtown. How’s life going? Living in downtown Minneapolis is great. All my favorite restaurants are just minutes away. ASKBRAD FALL 2013 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM go over the fabric with fine sandpaper but I worry I might make it worse. Q: Q: I recently bought some Boxer shorts are not dress shirts with French working under the new slim cuffs. On the inside part of each pants I’ve been buying. What cuff, there are two cufflink type of underwear should I try? We suggest trim boxer briefs in holes, while on the outside part some of the new high-tech fabrics of the cuffs, just one. Why? that are moisture wicking, anti- It’s to adjust the tightness of the sleeve, although not all makers offer this option. In any case, kudos to you for wearing French cuffs and cufflinks, adding a touch of class to your sartorial style. We hope you’re also trying bowties, pocket squares, tie clips and/or boutonnieres, all of which add personality to your executive look. microbial and amazingly comfortable. Try them in fashion colors and patterns if you dare. Q: I’ve noticed that my darker, harder-finish wool suits (even the expensive ones) tend to pick up shine after dry cleaning. Is there anything I can do about this? I’m tempted to 10 Skip the sandpaper and cut back on the dry cleaning. If your suit gets soiled, spot cleaning is best; dry clean as infrequently as possible. Other tricks of the trade: buy some good cedar hangers and leave space between suits in your closet; rotate your wardrobe so that you don’t wear the same suit on consecutive days. Most importantly: update your wardrobe with a new suit or two every year or so. With today’s slimmer fits, what’s in your closet is likely to look somewhat dated. Q: What’s the proper length for pants these days? Definitely shorter than they used to be, now that slimmer leg styles are popular. While we don’t recommend showing your ankles (although young trendsetters are doing it!), we do suggest just a slight break to no break at the top of the shoe. Unfortunately, lots of guys are still wearing their pants with a big break or even a double break: we feel that excess fabric bunched up on slim pants is a bit unflattering. Knowledge. Wisdom. Truth style ON THE RISE Clockwise from top: Kerry Rhodes, Tahj Mowry, Adam Huss Three up-and-coming stars talk clothes and cars. By Kelli Freeman way. I love boots, especially a pair of low-top distressed boots my father calls Oliver Twist style. Kerry Rhodes: My style depends on my mood. Generally I’m a clean-cut, tailored kind of guy. It feels great when something fits you well, straight and narrow. I wear custom-made suits to my games. How would you describe your personal style? You’re all really into cars. Tell us about your favorites. Adam Huss: I’m not a big shopper, but I love clothing. My style icons are Johnny Depp and Ryan Gosling, and I’d say my taste is a mix of hip-hop, funk and grunge. I prefer a layered look, dressier denim, and old-school leather with a soft hand. Tahj Mowry: Number one: Don’t copy someone else’s style. Number two: Be comfortable and confident in what you wear and you’ll carry yourself that Huss: I like a simple car that I can rely on, like my new Volkswagen Jetta. But there’s nothing like an old classic. A red Mercedes 560 SL: now that’s a ride you can go road-tripping in! Mowry: I have a white Audi S5 (which is faster than the A5). I love the blood-red leather seats and carbon fiber interior accents. This car gets me in trouble because it’s so fast and it distracts other drivers. 12 HUSS IMAGE BY MEAGEN MINNAUGH, HAIR BY CARLOS RODRIQUEZ he scent of a brand new ride, a leather jacket or a good cigar can conjure up a feeling of success and satisfaction. Listen in as Forum chats with three talented men about to make it big. They’re all on different paths, but share a passion for fashion and the need for speed. My next car may be a Mercedes-Benz G-Class, but I’m still an Audi guy! Rhodes: Cars are your babies! My favorite vehicle is my Range Rover, the first purchase I made once I got into the league. I get a new one every year. My second car is the first four-door Aston Martin Rapide in metallic gray, and one of the sexiest cars I’ve ever seen. I love it. My third car is a matte black BMW M3. HUSS IMAGE BY CARREL AUGUSTUS, HAIR BY CARLOS RODRIQUEZ. RHODES IMAGE BY MARCEL INDIK. MOWRY IMAGE COPYRIGHT 2012 DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED It sounds like you guys appreciate the finer things in life. What do you do to give back? Huss: I support any charity working to find a cure for cancer, especially leukemia. Mowry: I support The Thirst Project, which builds wells and provides clean drinking water to villages in Africa. Rhodes: I wanted to give back to the community and the people who helped me along the way, so I created The Rhodes Foundation to support educational and financial advancement for kids in underserved high schools. What’s something people would be surprised to learn about you? Huss: I am a nerd! I love comic books and super heroes (and want to be one). Mowry: That I’m a super reality TV fan! I love The Bachelor and The Bachelorette franchise and The Colony on the Discovery Channel. Rhodes: I’m actually a better basketball player than a football player. TRENDS THEY’RE INTO FALL ’13 SHOPPING LIST • boots • color • layering • slim-fit sport shirts • taking risks • cashmere hoodie • fitted leather jacket • perfectly tailored suit • sharp dress shoes • sleek high-tops Actor Adam Huss has appeared in NCIS: Los Angeles, CSI: NY and films like Resurrection County and Is It Just Me? Next, Huss stars in the feature film Find Me, which he also associate produced. He caught the acting bug at a young age: “I come from a big family. When we’d get together, I’d write a script, bring my cousins in and we’d act it out.” His passion is to tell compelling stories that invoke deep thought and feelings from the audience. NFL safety Kerry Rhodes was first drafted by the New York Jets in 2005. He was traded to the Arizona Cardinals in 2010, and will wrap up his NFL career this season. Rhodes’ philosophy about life and ‘The Game’ are one and the same: “Be smarter than your opponent. Be prepared for anything and you’ll be successful. Do the hard work, study.” With his new production company, The Come Back Kids, Rhodes hopes to transition from sports to the silver screen. “I just completed my first documentary about athletes and their inability to handle stardom or manage their money. I minored in theater, so I can see myself behind the scenes.” Tahj Mowry grew up guest starring on Full House, Friends, Sister, Sister and Who’s the Boss? before landing his own Disney sitcom, Smart Guy. He’s been a working actor since the age of four and is just coming off his second season of filming the ABC Family sitcom Baby Daddy. How does someone who’s worked through his childhood find work/life balance? “Acting is a job. I love it, but it’s not all of who I am. You have to separate it from yourself and live your life without letting your career consume you.” 13 man of style ALL ABOUT AL But fortunately, when we had Superstorm Sandy and the Oklahoma tornado and those types of severe events, we were pretty much right on target. As our computer modeling improves, so does our accuracy. How important are clothes in your life? What are your personal style preferences? I’d describe my style as fairly traditional: I don’t take major fashion risks; in fact, the biggest decision I had to make this season was cuffs or no cuffs on my pants. (I opted for no cuffs…) But what most distinguishes my style, I suppose, is that I’m not afraid to wear bold colors. I think it’s fun! For television, I like a tailored look. I used to be a basic blue blazer kind of guy, but as I’ve gotten older, I’ve evolved to more sophisticated Italian clothing. Zegna, Brioni and Kiton are among my favorite suit brands; sometimes I buy custom, sometimes off the rack. For weekends, I like The biggest decision to wear jeans or khakis I had to make this season with either a polo shirt or a classic woven shirt. was cuffs or no cuffs on my pants. Here’s what’s happening in Al Roker’s neck of the woods… By Karen Alberg Grossman What makes a great weatherman: accuracy or personality? Obviously it’s a combination of both, but accuracy is more critical than ever these days. With so many extreme weather events recently, getting it wrong can be life threatening. Of course, today’s improved technology enables more accurate forecasting. As for the personality part, whatever flavor you want, you can find it. Prefer a simple straightforward forecast, just the facts? You can find it! You want personality and showmanship, you can find that too. With so many TV channels, there’s a weatherman for every preference. Is it fair to ask your accuracy percentage? It’s not a good question since I’m now forecasting over such a broad area. When I did local news in Cleveland or D.C. or Syracuse, it was easier because it was a clearly defined geography; now it’s the entire country. (Lately, I’ve been buying checks.) I like easy comfortable sportswear and here, I’m less concerned about designer names. Who are your fashion role models? Well Matt Lauer has definitely influenced my style since he always looks so perfect (probably because he worked at an upscale menswear store as a teenager…). If I had to pick a celebrity fashion role model, I’d say Daniel Craig and George Clooney. (But how likely am I to ever look like them?) Actually, a 75-year-old guy who I don’t even know became a fashion role model for me. I had spotted him at a fundraiser in Washington, D.C. wearing a fabulous black watch tartan dinner jacket; I asked him where he got it and he told me he bought it 40 years ago at the flagship Brooks Brothers store on Madison Avenue. So I went looking for that fabric and had a similar one made up for me by Zegna. I wore it to a red carpet 14 ATTENTION TO DETAIL is what has turned Eton into one of the world’s finest shirt makers. Founded in 1928 by husband and wife Annie and David Pettersson, Eton’s dedicated belief in quality and craftsmanship has helped spread their story from the small village in Gånghester in the west of Sweden to some of the world’s most exclusive stores. Today, Eton is still run by the Pettersson family and remains loyal to its heritage as a specialist shirt maker. celebrating 85 years of fine shirt making 1928–2013 assignment and got lots of compliments! Do you have a good luck tie? Not really. But I’ve been wearing a lot of Brioni ties lately: I like the heft. Also Zegna and Drake’s… What about the slimmer-fit clothing they’re showing these days: are you wearing it? Not so much. For me, it will take some getting used to. Once you’ve been overweight, you don’t want to be reminded of when everything was too tight… meet this incredibly brave woman whose courage changed the course of history, for not just African Americans but for all Americans. And Charles Schultz because I too am an avid cartoonist and comic book fan; I’ve always been in awe of his talents. (I still sketch a bit but I’m not really pursuing it these days.) Who I’d most like to interview? Probably Obama. I’d ask him about his views on climate change. Other passions? I love cooking and reading. My most recent culinary accomplishment was grilled Chilean sea bass with roasted Brussels spouts and quinoa. My most recent great read was Thomas Jefferson: The Art of Power by Jon Meacham. Speaking of which, tell us about your new book. It came out in January; it’s called Never Goin’ Back: Winning the Weight-loss Battle for Good. It’s simply the story of my personal journey with weight loss. I think there’s a lot of good stuff that might help people along their own journeys, but it’s definitely not a “how-to” book… What are you most proud of? Hanging in there: I’ve been working for the same company (NBC) for 30-plus years. And of course my three children: my 26year-old Courtney is a chef in New York City; Leila (14) is studying performing arts; my son Nicky (10) is a master in Tae Kwon Do. I would have thought you’d be most proud of your unique ability to connect with people... I don’t know that it’s such a special talent: I simply treat people the way I’d want to be treated. It’s how my parents raised us, and it’s the lesson I’d most like to teach my children. And while we joke around a lot on the Today show, it’s especially important that we’re never laughing at somebody, only with them. “If it’s someone you love who’s overweight, the best thing you can do is shut up.” What advice would you give to someone wanting to lose weight who has not yet begun the journey? I don’t believe in giving advice on weight loss since it’s got to come from within. For me, it literally took seeing my dad on his death bed and promising him I’d change my life… Everyone gets to that point eventually, but no amount of lecturing will do it. Look at Governor Christie — he has young kids and a young wife and after all these years he finally made the decision to take control of his future… No one could have persuaded him. So that’s the advice I’d give people: do it for yourself, not for anyone else. If it’s someone you love who’s overweight, the best thing you can do is shut up. Because guess what: we know we’re fat! We don’t live in a world without mirrors… Who was your best interview ever and who would you like to interview next? My two favorites so far were Rosa Parks and Charles Schultz: Rosa because it was just such an honor to Who is your personal hero? Probably New York’s Cardinal Dolan. I was raised Catholic (my mom was a devout Catholic, I lean toward Catholic Lite) but with Dolan, it’s less about his religion and more about his humility, his humanity, how readily he can talk about his own failings (e.g. losing weight!). I’ve never officially interviewed him but we spent time together in Rome for the installation of the new Pope, and we’ve had dinner a number of times. He’s a straight shooter and a pretty tolerant fellow; I truly admire him. 16 F eatured Properties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t: 952.237.1100 F r an k.R o f fer s @ s o t h eby s re alt y.c o m www.SmithandRoffers.com )(-2 % 0+EPPIVME`)HMRE`12`;%=> %8% )0E OI 7 XVI I X`;E]^ EX E ` 1 2 ` )EGL3J½GI-W-RHITIRHIRXP]3[RIH%RH3TIVEXIH Maximize your investment in a classic cashmere suit with simple sartorial updates for any occasion. 1 SUIT. 7 WAYS. EXPLORE YOUR OPTIONS. Photography Jens Ingvarsson Styling William Buckley Grooming Katie Robinson 1 SPORTY STYLE REPLACE YOUR SUIT JACKET WITH A LEATHER MOTO STYLE TO ROCK YOUR WORKDAY (OR WEEKEND). 2 VINTAGE PREP BRIGHTEN A GRAY OUTLOOK WITH A KNIT TIE & COLORFUL PLAID SPORTCOAT. LO0KING GOOD! 3 CASUAL COOL 4 CHECK YOURSELF TRADITIONAL WITH A TWIST: THIS WORN WITH DARK DENIM, A STRIPED SPORT SHIRT & SNEAKERS GIVE SHIRT & TIE PAIRING BRINGS YOUR BASIC SUIT TO A MORE CREATIVE SPACE. YOUR JACKET A LEISURELY LOOK. MODEL: LEANDRO SOUZA, Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. TAILORING: JASON SANTIAGO. RING: PROPOSITION LOVE. WATCHES: TAG HEUER, PANERAI, BREITLING 5 LAYERED LUXE WHEN THE TEMPERATURE COOLS, ADD LAYERS IN FALL’S WARMEST SHADES. 6 PATTERN PLAY DON’T FALL FLAT: GRAPHIC CHECKS PROVIDE A SUBTLE CONTRAST AGAINST SOLID TROUSERS. LOG PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC HOUSE OFSTYLE HAIR & MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY STYLING: WENDY MCNETT MODEL: PETER ARGUE @ WILHEMINA. SPECIAL THANKS: WILLIAM BUCKLEY, MICHAEL & DONNA FRIEDMAN. YOUR GUIDE T O MODERN OUTERWEAR Photography Jens Ingvarsson Styling William Buckley Grooming Katie Robinson Don’t be afraid to mix textures, colors and patterns. THE FALL GUY Outerwear classics get a modern update with new treatments and details. A pocket square adds pop. The lined lightweight material takes you through changing seasons. Casual Luxury WITH FITTED SILHOUETTES AND LUXE DETAILS, THESE PIECES PULL DOUBLE DUTY FOR WORK AND WEEKEND. Distressed fabrics look great with jeans. Wide lapels define shoulders. Donegal fabric is dressy but cool. Double-Breasted GO DRESSY OR CASUAL WITH THESE SIMPLE TIPS. A nippedin waist keeps the look sleek. MODELS: JONATHAN RILEY, MITCH FERRIN, CEDRIC @ FORD; LEANDRO SOUZA @ Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO. Keep the length short for a modern take on casual. Vests PERFECT WITH YOUR FAVORITE SWEATER AND CHINOS, THEY PAIR JUST AS WELL WITH A SPORTCOAT AND TIE. department head world scene OPULENT ADVENTURES S ail off on luxurious explorations of two of the world’s most exotic locations: the Amazon River in Peru and Vietnam’s Mekong River. Aqua Expeditions offers three, four, or seven-day cruises on these two intriguing rivers, providing the opportunity for a variety of fascinating experiences, from visiting historic sites to piranha fishing. And they do it in great style. For the Amazon cruises, Aqua Expeditions provides either the 130-foot-long M/V Aqua, or the 147-foot M/V Aria. Both custom-built ships have airconditioned suites featuring sitting areas and picture windows with panoramic views. The M/V Aqua can accommodate 24 guests in 12 suites while the Aria has 16 suites with room for 32 guests, plus additional amenities such as an exercise room and an outdoor hot tub. Launching in 2014, the M/V Aqua Mekong is an extraordinary architectdesigned ship with a spa, screening room, outdoor pool and 20 guest suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, all offering magnificent views of Vietnam and Cambodia. Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson KEEP ON DANCING S IMAGE BY PAUL B. GOODE. FEATURED DANCERS LAURA HALZACK AND MICHAEL TRUSNOVEC ince 1954, the innovative and sometimes controversial modern dance choreographer Paul Taylor has created 138 dances exploring a range of topics: life and death, love and sexuality, iconic moments in American history. These are set to music as diverse as medieval masses, baroque concertos, classical symphonies, Tin Pan Alley, and The Mamas and The Papas. Every season for the past 60 years the Paul Taylor Dance Company has toured the world, performing in over 500 cities in 62 countries. What better way to celebrate the diamond jubilee of this legendary company than by taking to the road again? In 2014, Paul Taylor will be presenting modern dance across America, from New York to San Francisco. 32 OMMMMM A s the year winds down, take a few days and disappear to Ananda in the Himalayas, a restored viceroy’s palace with a destination spa that focuses on India’s ancient arts of yoga, meditation and ayurveda. The new you is orchestrated by a team of qualified nutritionists, western and ayurvedic physicians, and spa therapists who create programs to meet individual goals. Concentrate on destressing, detox and cleansing, relaxation, anti-aging or weight and inch loss, all in a 24,000 square-foot facility with 24 treatment rooms, hydrotherapy facilities, a Beauty Institute, outdoor heated swimming pool, sauna, steam rooms and a fully equipped fitness center. Fortunately, your stay doesn’t have to be all exercise and dieting. Between treatments, you can play golf, go white river rafting, or enjoy an elephant photo safari. GRAND ITALIAN GROUNDS A ldo Filicori and Luigi Zecchini founded Filicori Zecchini coffee in Bologna in 1919. After nearly a century, the company is still guided by the founders’ families and remains loyal to a philosophy that merges artisan passion and technological innovation. Together, the careful selection of the highest quality green coffee and the specific roasting process produce the particular aroma and flavor that makes Filicori Zecchini so impressive. So much so that many of the company’s coffees have earned the Italian Espresso National Institute’s certification, a designation reserved for only the best blends. Available in over 30 countries around the world, Filicori Zecchini coffee has just recently reached American shores. Buongiorno tutti! LET IT BEE T here was a lot of buzz when bees recently checked into the InterContinental Hotels in Boston and New York. Yes, that’s right, bees. In keeping with the environmentally responsible trend among luxury hotels, the InterContinental’s green initiatives include the use of energy-efficient lighting, water conservation and recycling programs throughout the properties. On the roofs of these hotels, along with an herb garden, there will also be apiaries, attended by a traveling apiculturist (one who raises bees for honey). The hives are expected to produce 20 to 30 pounds of honey per year, which the hotels plan to bottle for gifts and amenities, use in cocktails and on special Honey Menus. Comb through the chef’s latest creations, including honeylacquered duck leg confit and honey almond madelines. 33 tech “When people see themselves for the first time on video, they generally think about quitting golf,” laughs Chuck Quinton, founder of RotarySwing.com, an online instruction site. “But you can’t make a change without realizing exactly what you’re doing wrong. That may seem incredibly obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people don’t know what their swing looks like.” Golf analysis took a huge leap forward in the mid-’90s, Quinton says, when cameras capable of capturing high-speed athletics became smaller and more affordable than the TV-sized cameras previously required. Improved camera technology, combined with analysis software that previously cost thousands of dollars but which is available today from a $5 app, means instructors can now measure just about everything and qualify cause and IN FULL SWING Virtual data can help improve your physical game. By Christian Chensvold t a press conference following this year’s Masters Tournament, Tiger Woods was asked what he thought of 14-year-old golf phenom Tianling Guan. He credited golf apps that use high-speed video analysis for the success of today’s prodigies, who’ve grown up with laptops and smart phones as integral pieces of golf equipment. They’re accustomed to filming themselves, and more important, they’ve learned to analyze what they see. Whether it’s Konica Minolta’s SwingVision camera, which can break down Tiger’s swing into 18,000frames-per-second slow motion on your TV screen, or a grainy cell phone clip of a high handicapper struggling to improve, technology has brought unprecedented insight into the mechanics of the golf swing. But how many golfers are brave enough to uncover the naked truth of their faulty swings? Technology has brought unprecedented insight into the mechanics of the golf swing. effect in a student’s faulty swing. The most important thing video analysis reveals, says Quinton, is a golfer’s impact position: golf’s so-called moment of truth. The number of faults that can lead to a poor impact position are myriad, and are all revealed under the ‘CAT-scan’ of golf analysis software. For a membership fee, RotarySwing.com lets golfers upload biweekly video clips for analysis by instructors, who write up what they’re seeing and suggest drills and changes. The workload, Quinton says, is bordering on overwhelming. His staff of 25 certified instructors shares the duties, with one full-timer devoted entirely to swing reviews. Most of RotarySwing.com’s students use the golf app by V1, which founder Chris Hart says is an indispensable tool in a golfer’s perennial struggle to keep his sanity. V1 costs a mere $4.99 and uses a smart 34 phone’s camera to record golf swings, which can then be analyzed with software that measures body angles and compares clips of good and bad shots side by side, all of which users can store in a virtual ‘locker room.’ Clips can also be uploaded directly to coaches for professional analysis (cost varies). The company is currently working on score tracking and shot analysis features that will allow golfers to hit a bucket at the range and get a full set of data on where their shots went, a far more reliable means of ball flight tendencies than short-term memory. This will be combined with a golfer’s performance during their rounds of play. “There’s what you do on the range and what you do on the course,” says Hart, “and we want to have it all in one spot from which you can get feedback.” That’s right: you’ll soon have a convenient portable database with stats on all your slices, shanks and missed two-foot putts. While apps are cheap and convenient, nothing compares to today’s indoor golf simulators, which combine virtual play on famous courses such as Pebble Beach with advanced analysis software and multiple camera angles. XGolf’s top-of-the-line laser-based system goes for about $65,000. About half of sales are to indoor golf facilities, the other half to private homes. The simulator allows users to get side-by-side swing comparisons with clips of their favorite pros. And a feature called On Course Training makes lessons more engaging. “A student practicing 96-yard wedge shots can have it set up as an approach shot on a specific hole at Pebble Beach,” explains XGolf’s manager of sales and business development Ryan D’Arcy. “They can see the results as the ball lands on different parts of the virtual green.” As with any other piece of technology, there are upsides and downsides. In golf there’s a common issue called ‘paralysis by analysis,’ the point at which the golfer has so many technical thoughts in his mind he can no longer trust his swing to the part of the subconscious that controls muscle movement. Obsessing over angles and positions on your smart phone at the range can be as bad as texting at the dinner table. “Once you begin to leverage video analysis, you have to learn when to close the door,” says Quinton. “Every golfer goes through paralysis by analysis at one time THE MOST IMPORTANT THING VIDEO ANALYSIS REVEALS IS A GOLFER’S IMPACT POSITION: GOLF’S SO-CALLED MOMENT OF TRUTH. or another, and you need to be your own doctor and recognize the symptoms. [Relying on] video analysis can be a very slippery slope if you’re not careful.” In the same press conference in which he mentioned how much technology is helping the next generation of golfers, Tiger Woods talked about visiting Korea, where indoor golf simulators are extremely popular. New players hit on them exclusively and religiously for six to 12 months, he said, then head outdoors “and have perfect golf swings.” They all look the same, he noted, but maybe sameness is a fair trade-off for perfection. 36 T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R S food Daniel Boulud, right, with Tyler Shedden, taste testing in Toronto. clam and parsley broth. My entrée, the duo of cumbra beef, consisted of a dry-aged strip loin alongside red wine-braised short ribs and spinach subric. The grapefruit givré — a frozen grapefruit shell filled with sorbet, grapefruit wedges and rose-flavored Turkish delight, crowned with fluffy threads of halvah and a torched sesame cracker — was a visual masterpiece that playfully juxtaposed textures and temperatures. As the man who invented the gourmet burger, Boulud naturally has ‘mad’ love for beef, and never strays far from the other three Bs: bacon, butter and brioche. I spoke with the master about his successes, his roots on the farm, and what he likes to cook with his daughter, Alix. Is true fine dining a thing of the past? Fine dining is very much alive and kicking in the greatest cities of the world. But the definition, in many ways, has evolved. How do you define fine dining? It doesn’t have to be pompous or boring. Fine dining is exciting and rare. For me it can be a $2.50 [piece of] sushi or sashimi made with the highest-quality ingredients. Or going to Brooklyn for the best pizza made with local clams, local herbs, the perfect crust… while AMERICA’S FRENCH FARM BOY Chef Daniel Boulud’s dishes are haute but homey, and always from the heart. By Shira Levine o eat a meal crafted by Daniel Boulud is to be dazzled with a full-sensory culinary experience. My epicurean evening took place in Toronto, at the James Beard award-winning chef’s latest restaurant project. Called Café Boulud (like its New York and Palm Beach counterparts), the fine dining hotspot is positioned within the glassy-chic Four Seasons Toronto, recently redone in exquisite style. The multi-cultural culinary Mecca already has its share of hip eateries, yet visitors and locals alike are hungry for a bite of Boulud. Dbar is the lobby bar and café, but it’s the mezzanine-level restaurant outfitted with Mr. Brainwash pop art pieces that has people talking. Indeed about the art (an unexpected pairing with French haute cuisine), but more about the equally jaw-dropping menu. My tasting began with octopus à la plancha followed by a British Columbian black cod persillade in a it might be casual, it can be fine dining. Of course it’s about the food, but it is also very much about the service, and then the ambiance. Fine dining is about living well and enjoying life. What is the universal thread that runs throughout your 14 restaurants? Detail. I pay a lot of attention to service and training. Even though fine dining is becoming more casual, it is also more focused on details, more and better service, with more attention paid to making the customers feel at ease with the experience. You’ve been living in the U.S. for many years; do you still consider yourself a French chef? When you're French you can’t take it out of you. I live in America, and I love America; my daughter was born here. But I am certainly French. American foodies have embraced regional Italian cooking. Do you think you have been suc- 38 IMAGE BY CHRISTIAN HORAN Art by Mr. Brainwash is a lively addition to the décor at Café Boulud. cessful in spreading knowledge about French regional cuisines? Well, you tell me! I love all of it and I think it is fair to say people like my food. The cuisine regional — especially the specialties of cheese and charcuterie — is what has made me ‘stay French’ and feel so proud to cook French. Like many countries we also have the cuisine bourgeois: the food of the people. We have a history of cooking meals that are very elaborate yet very soulful. Then you have brasserie cooking for the big city; bistro is smaller scale and local. Lyon de bouchon is also very special: it’s the micro-scale restaurant where there is no choice on the menu because they serve you what they have made that day. It’s cooked with love. I have lived and worked all my life for haute cuisine: the best of the best. It takes a lifetime to master and it’s still never enough. What city’s food scene inspires you most? Copenhagen is really exciting. I lived there 32 years ago and I could see then that this place was going to be something amazing one day. I love their street food so much. I love the little skinny hot dog with the tiny bun! There is so much young Danish talent inspiring the culinary world with the way they are thinking about and making food. I also love Charleston, South Carolina. San Francisco and Chicago are longtime favorite food cities. “Fine dining is about living well and enjoying life.” These micro-scale restaurants seem to be more appealing to today’s foodies. This is the challenge for young chefs. They open a place with $100,000; it’s a shack, but they cook amazing food. Yes, it is fine cuisine, but the idea is to elevate the town with a fine restaurant. You don’t want a town with all the restaurants imitating one another. You grew up on a farm in France and weren’t always accustomed to fine dining. What do you make for a home-cooked meal? I keep it really easy; I cook with my daughter sometimes. I live above Daniel so usually what I do is go down to the restaurant and grab a roast or a fish, and then on the spot propose something for us to make. Can you envision making your own Jiro Dreams of Sushi film? Maybe Daniel Dreams of Butter? Not like that, but I am working on a documentary. It’s around a new cookbook I have coming out that celebrates 20 years of Daniel. It’s called My French Cuisine. It shows that I’m proud of my French identity and that no matter where I travel and what I experiment with, I still think French food is the best. 40 FALL 2013 We made Bills better by not changing a thing.® travel AFRICAN ADVENTURE Calling all thrill-seekers (who also crave fine wines, gourmet dining, spa treatments and more). By William Kissel sit in awe as the open-air vehicle makes its way over an expansive field of oat grass in the northern Serengeti. Suddenly, we’re nose-to-nose with a herd of 400-pound wildebeests all with the same features: a buffalo’s face, a camel’s hump and a horse’s backside. Tens of millions of migrating animals, including the homely, docile wildebeest, call this northernmost region of Tanzania home. If you’re lucky enough to visit East Africa during the off-season (mid-December through March), when the animals are calving and before the great migration gets underway in late July, you’ll find yourself viewing this magical scene almost entirely alone. The endless stream of Land Cruisers that jockey for the best viewing positions during Africa’s peak months in the fall are nowhere to be found on this warm January day: it’s a peaceful moment in nature everyone yearns to experience but few actually do. We drive slowly through a herd of feasting elephants, one of which is nursing a day old calf. We watch three hyenas unsuccessfully stalk a rare black rhino and her newborn offspring, a trio of cheetahs snake through the tall grasslands, and a lone lion nap under a thorny acacia bush. This is the Africa of your imagination. The panorama of wildlife has drawn visitors since long before the days when Hemingway came to hunt. But now, with the help of two of Africa’s most celebrated tour companies — Nomad Tanzania and Asilia, working in collaboration with Canadian custom tour operator Trufflepig — it’s time to revisit Africa’s original safari destination. East Africa’s safari outfitters have responded to competition for tourism dollars by building plush, deluxe camps and upgrading amenities to appeal to adventure-seekers who also want access to fine wines, spa treatments, pool time and other pamperings. Naturally, getting to these remote camps is a big 42 Below: The author’s tastefully appointed tent at the Serengeti Safari Camp part of the adventure. A commercial flight via South African Airways to Johannesburg is just the first leg in a 36-hour journey. From there we board a second flight to Tanzania, where one of Tanganyika Flying Company’s 12-seat planes awaits to ferry us to Arusha, the gateway town to Serengeti safari. Here we board another small plane for a flyover of Tanzania’s famed Ngorongoro Crater (the largest intact volcano caldera in the world) to Ndutu, a rock-filled airstrip, where the first of many Land Cruisers awaits our arrival. We cross the snake-like Mara river past a pool of hippos and a few crocodiles, and continue on to Ubuntu, one of three mobile camps designed to follow the migrating animals. Rested and well fed, we travel another three hours to our first camp at Olakira. These mobile setups are actually lavish tent cities that require two full days and three trucks to relocate, and each canvas structure is enormous by anyone’s standards. At both Olakira and Serengeti Safari Camp, tents are self-contained suites with oversized beds, sitting areas with lovely writing desks, and private bathrooms with a chemical toilet and stall shower in lieu of actual plumbing. Even in the remotest part of the world, these private sanctuaries are filled with little amenities to make outdoor living a four-star experience: gas- or battery-powered lighting, daily laundry service, and hot showers provided by stewards who boil water and fill your cistern on demand. Among Tanzania’s few permanent camps is Sayari, which is operated by Asilia and listed as one of the top five new luxury lodgings in Africa. It’s located in a remote valley five miles from the border of Kenya, home to the Kuria tribe. A mobile camp that found its permanent home just four years ago, Sayari is something of an anomaly among African camps. Its 15 tented structures are shaped like the large tabletop mountain called Turner’s Hill (after Miles Turner, the first warden of the Serengeti), visible in the distance. The tents are outfitted Asian-style with teak floors, shoji screen walls and massive marble tubs to wash away the residue from the raw, dusty plains. It’s a bit disconcerting to be in one of these tubs when a leopard passes by, but the small creature comforts far outweigh the predatory creature discomforts. (Sayari, like most camps, provides each guest with his own private askari, or night watchman, to guard against wild animal attacks.) Unlike Sayari’s Zen Buddhist vibe, few sites scream Africa more than Lamai Serengeti, a one-year-old permanent camp developed by Nomad Tanzania on the rocky Kogakuria Kopje peaks, just a few miles from where the great migration across the Mara river begins. Honored with the 2013 Best New Property in Africa award, it boasts 12 sumptuously appointed thatched roof structures, each with its own wraparound deck. Resident game lingers just outside at sun up, and during the day the playful vervet monkeys can be spotted feasting on the sour plums that dangle from the native Ole Lamai trees, from which the camp gets its name. In case you haven’t guessed, a safari is not the time to catch up on your sleep. Instead, you’ll wake before sunrise for the first of two game drives of the day. Those initial hours on safari are the most adrenaline-filled, especially as you catch your first glimpse of the big five — lion, rhino, leopard, buffalo and elephant — everyone comes to see. Once you’ve spotted them, usually within hours, your mind will open to Africa’s other amazing flora and fauna. Lavish lunches and dinners after each drive offer the perfect opportunity to reflect in solitude or share stories with fellow travelers. And at day’s end, a surprise sundowner cocktail — a nightly African tradition — always awaits where and when you least expect it. 43 Left: Women of the Kuria tribe in full ceremonial regalia Above right: One of the spectacular bathtubs at Sayari camp end page yourself; it’s generally better to be overdressed than underdressed and these days, a slim suit scores extra points. 7. Acquire the taste for a good cocktail, straight up. It’s cool to order and enjoy a classic — Manhattan, Rob Roy, Martini, Negroni, etc. — when you’re out on the town. (When in New York, do it at the King Cole Bar in the St. Regis Hotel.) 6. Suggest that your significant other also cultivate a favorite drink to enjoy before dinner. I love it when a lady replies promptly to a bartender’s request for her order. A confident response is sexy. 5. Red wine should be stored and served cool; experts suggest 57 degrees, not room temperature. However, it should be opened and set on the table about 15 minutes before you plan to enjoy it, so it can breathe and warm up just slightly. (Good restaurants know this.) 4. Never let your cologne precede your presence, especially in a restaurant, where fragrance and food smells are not a great combination. RESTAURANT RULES Stuff men should know (but probably don’t…) By Frank Schipani hen it comes to certain gentlemanly topics, including dress codes, a generation gap can often impede credibility. Receiving fashion advice from gray-haired guys in suits is not necessarily what young men crave, even if it’s what they need. That said, when it comes to wining, dining and women, experience counts. Here, the top 10 time-tested tips that are bound to score. 10. Always give the lady a facing-out seat (her back against the wall) in a restarant. A woman quite literally ‘dresses’ the room; she should have the observing seat to see and be seen. 9. Turn off your digital devices before entering a restaurant. You’re there to share an experience, not to worry about missed messages. (What could be more insulting?) 8. Always dress in a modern manner no matter where you’re going. Your appearance is how you represent 3. When making any kind of reservation, always note the name of the person you spoke to and the time you called. (Stuff happens; you may arrive only to have someone say “I don’t see your name here…”) 2. Better still, develop a relationship with the manager of a go-to place where you can get in on short notice. All popular restaurants say “We have nothing open but 5:00 or 10:00!” Fact is, they always save a table or two during prime time that they can easily give to loyal clients at the last minute. (If they know and like you, they’ll act like you had an actual reservation and simply make another party wait a little longer.) 1. Tired of dining out or ready for something more intimate? In addition to throwing steaks on the grill, learn how to make at least one dish for the stovetop or oven. May I suggest a basic tomato sauce for your pasta course? Buon appetito! 44 GETTY 1 When it comes to wining, dining and women, experience counts. H U B E R T W H I T E F O RU M FA L L 2 0 1 3