Proud Member of:

Transcription

Proud Member of:

February 2013
Volume 40 – Issue 06
Proud Member of:
Durham Region Aquarium Society
ALL ABOUT US
The Durham Region Aquarium Society (DRAS) was established in September 1966.
During that year our first annual fish show was held and a monthly bulletin created. The
Society’s stated aim, "For the advancement and improvement of the aquarium hobbyist",
has benefited hundreds of members in over 40 years of existence. Our Society is also a
charter member, and current member in good standing, of the Canadian Association of
Aquarium Clubs (CAOAC).
MONTHLY MEETINGS:
Our meetings are usually held on the second Tuesday
of every month. (No meetings in July and August)
TIME: 7:30 pm
MEETING LOCATION:
In the cafeteria of:
Anderson Collegiate,
400 Anderson Street
Whitby, Ontario
MEETINGS:
The monthly meetings include an interesting program with guest speakers, slide presentations or demonstrations. There is
also a jar show, door prize draws and an auction which usually includes fish or hobby related items such as aquariums,
books, plants and other equipment. There is always time to talk to fellow hobbyists.
MEMBERSHIP:
An annual membership includes attendance at the monthly meetings, a copy of our monthly newsletter Tank Talk, voting
privileges, use of the club library, participation in our Annual Fish Show and Auction, Breeders Award Program (BAP),
Aquatic Horticultural Award Program (AHAP) and other interesting events during the year. You have the opportunity to
attend annual fish shows and auctions hosted by other clubs and societies around southern Ontario and the northern
United States. The Society can also assist you in obtaining rare and/or exotic fish and aquatic plants that are not usually
found in pet stores.
VISITORS ARE ALWAYS WELCOME!!
MEMBERSHIP DUES:
For further information contact:
Junior $5.00
Joanne Harder at 905 404-8617
Single $20.00
Family $25.00
U
2012 - 2013 Executive & Standing Committees
Executive:
President:
Vice-President:
Treasurer:
Secretary:
Past President:
Joanne Harder
Ivan M. Shaw
Colette McKee
Barry McKee
Klaus Steinhaus
905 404-8617
905 728-3385
289-660-0100
289-660-0100
905-240-1029
Honourary Members: Mr. & Mrs Earl Gatchell
Mr. Peter Naef
Mr. Wayne Rakestrow
Mr. Doug White
FOR INFORMATION REGARDING ADVERTISING
IN THIS PUBLICATION, PLEASE E-MAIL:
[email protected]
HU
U
REPRINT POLICY FOR ARTICLES IN TANK TALK:
Unless otherwise stated, any non-profit organization may
reprint from Tank Talk provided that credit is given to the
author, Tank Talk, and the Durham Region Aquarium
Society (DRAS) and that two copies of the reprinting
publication are sent to the Durham Region Aquarium
Society’s mailing address. Any other use is not permitted
unless written consent from the Durham Region Aquarium
Society and/or the author is obtained.
Tank Talk – Feb 2013 / Volume 40, Number 06
Standing Committees:
Advertising:
Doug Chessell
AHAP Chair:
Paul D. McIntosh
AHAP Chair
Derek Tustin
Annual Show: Tom Mason
BAP Chair:
Tim McCaskie
CAOAC Reps: Barry McKee
Myron Iwanochko
Librarian:
Paul A. McIntosh
Lunch
Convenor:
Maria Topalis
Membership: Mary Hyland
Program Chair: Rick Glencross
Tank Talk
Editor:
Klaus Steinhaus
Exchange
Editor:
Derek Tustin
Webmaster:
Ivan M. Shaw
Forum Admin: Ivan M. Shaw
C.A.R.E.S.
Klaus Steinhaus
Annual Dinner Sonja Hojka
905 683-7119
905 728-1407
905-493-3360
905 839-6764
905 438-9618
289-660-0100
905-427-3307
905 697-7619
905 728-9757
705-357-2672
905-471-1345
905 240-1029
905-493-3360
905 728-3385
905 728-3385
905-240-1029
905-831-4395
Please forward all correspondence to:
DURHAM REGION AQUARIUM SOCIETY
c/o 110 Park Road North, #310
Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
L1J 4L3
Page 2
February 2013 Tank Talk
The next general meeting will be Tues, Feb. 12, 2013
The Program will be:
Javier Caicedo, Senior Sales Manager with Canadian
Aquatic Feed Inc.
About Fish Nutrition and Feeding
·
From the Editor
page 5
·
January Membership Report
page 5
·
President’s Message
page 6
·
Trading Post
page 6
·
Calendar
page 7
·
DRAS Volunteer
page 7
·
The Salty Corner – Setting up a Reef Tank / Part 2&3
·
AHAB & BAP Standings
page 14
·
DRAS C.A.R.E.S. Participants
page 15
·
Year of the Catfish – Plecos (or more properly, Loricariidae)
·
January 2013 Executive Meeting Minutes
page 19
·
January 2013 General Meeting Minutes
page 20
·
Cajun Catfish
·
WTFish?: L-Numbers and LDA-Numbers Explained
by Derek Tustin
page 23
·
My Green Wet Thumb: The African Water Fern
by Derek Tustin
page 27
by Marty Ziegler
by Derek Tustin
by Rick Glencross
page 8
page 16
page 21
The Durham Region Aquarium Society (DRAS) and the editors of Tank Talk
do not endorse, and are not responsible for, the actions of any advertisers or
merchants found within or through Tank Talk. Any dealings between you, the
member, and these companies or individuals, including payment for and
delivery of products, services and any other associated dealings, are solely
between you and the relevant advertiser or merchant and are made at your
own risk and by your own choice.
Page 3
Page 4
Jan. 2013 Membership Report
We currently have 83 active members.
New Members:
Rick Blohm, Steven Gocool, Terry Parsons,
Ed Creighton (speaker)
From the Editor
Welcome to the Club J
Member Renewals:
Joel Van Wyk, Andrew Lipczyk, Barry Sheppard, Andy
Bednarz
Thank you for renewing
Respectfully submitted by:
Mary Hyland
If you move or change your phone number,
PLEASE let me know ASAP.
As mentioned in the December edition of TT we will
have the year of the catfish starting with this issue. I
know that many of you are looking forward to the
articles since catfish have become quite popular of the
last couple of years.
However, there will also be articles and information
about other species and I will try to include some articles
about salt water for all you “salties”.
Any suggestions and aquaristic articles are welcome J
Please submit an article about ANY aquatic subject.
buntbarsch @rogers.com
Page 5
Well hey there folks,
Another month has passed us by and we are well on our way into the year 2013. The
remainder of the year promises to be a good one. Coming up soon is the annual dinner
which has returned to the Atrium at the Toronto Zoo on the 23rd of Feb. Ron Coleman
will be joining us and talking about his most recent trip to Costa Rica, should be most
interesting. Hope to see you all there.
Also approaching quickly is Aquariama 2013 on April 7th, this is at the Ajax Community
Centre again and I have no doubt it will be as successful as last year, I hope we can get a
few new volunteers this year as it is nice to get some new opinions and ideas involved.
(Some of the regulars are getting up there and could certainly use the extra
help….hehehe. Okay, I’ll try to be good.)
I hope everyone has had a great new year so far. See you on the 12th.
Cheers, Joanne
Trading Post
Diatom XL with big bag of powder.
Works well.
Retails for about $240.00
$100.00 obo
George @ 905-686-0632
28 gal. bowfront tank with canopy and stand
$30.00 in Mississauga - Carl McCleary
[email protected]
If you have anything to sell, give away or if you are looking for a particular item, please let the Editor know.
buntbarsch @rogers.com
Page 6
CALENDAR
DRAS Meeting Dates for the 2012/2013 Season:
February 12th, 2013
March 19th, 2013
April 9th, 2013
May 14th, 2013
June 11th, 2013
February 23, 2013
Annual Social Banquet
April 7, 2013
AQUARIAMA 2013
Sonia Hojka
The DRAS Volunteers
This month’s volunteer is
Sonia Hojka
Sonia has volunteered to look after our annual Social Dinner. As you can see in the picture
above, she is a very popular Lady. Maybe that’s the reason why she was able to complete a
task even Tom Mason could not. She managed to convince the bosses at the Toronto Zoo
that their Atrium is the best place to have our big dinner.
Thank you Sonia for helping DRAS to become a better club J
Page 7
“The Salty Corner”.
Setting Up a Reef Tank
Part 2 & 3
by Marty Ziegler
First published in Gravel Gossip,
Diamond State Aquarium Society
Aquarticles
O
ne summer day I said to my wife, it's time
to expand to a bigger tank- and she said,
it's time for new carpeting, and behold,
there was compromise. Since I wanted the new
tank in the same location as the old tank, this
would require a little more planning than I
expected The 55-gallon tank would have to be torn
down one day, have the carpeting replaced the next
day, and then set up the new tank the following
day.
First off, I purchased a new 125-gallon tank and a
deluxe wooden stand (my wife wanted to make
Amphiprion ocellaris
sure the stand would match with the rest of the
furniture). A stand to me is something to support the tank, not a piece of furniture, but again there is compromise. A
friend of mine just so happened to be selling his 75-gallon set-up, so I purchased it for a very reasonable price and
planned to combine the contents of that tank with the 55-gallon tank I already had set up. This would pretty much fill the
new 125-gallon tank, so I would not need to buy anymore accessories at this time. His set-up included another Fluval
303 canister filter, a Sea Clear protein skimmer with Whisper 800 air pump, a larger wet-dry trickle filter system, an
ultra-violet sterilizer, a two 175 watt metal halide lamp and two 40 watt actinic fluorescent bulb in a handmade wooden
canopy, and a lot more live rock The only thing that I would need is additional coral, which I would spread out over the
next two years.
Believe it or not, I accomplished the move with no casualties by the wee-hours of the morning of the fourth day. Setting
up from existing systems does make for a faster transition to a mature tank. I detailed this out in my "Moving a Reef
Tank-" article in the Oct/Nov issue of the Gravel Gossip. I can email a copy by request.
I had decided against using any substrate in this tank after reading several articles in the aquarium magazines of this
period, which I later regretted. Placing all this rock was quite overwhelming as I found myself constantly re-arranging
the rock to get the desired effect. This was probably the most time-consuming part of the set-up. I tried to create as many
caves and ledges as I could with the rock that I had. Again, I regretted not epoxying some of the rockwork together, as
later on I would have several accidental rockslides, which resulted in the loss of several corals.
I decided to hang the light canopy from the ceiling rather than set it on top of the tank. This is a good idea, as it greatly
aids in air circulation, heat dissipation, and gas exchange, as well as make it easier to access the contents of the tank. The
canopy was suspended approximately 6 inches from the top edge of the tank with two sections of decorative chain link,
which can be purchased from any hardware store or home improvement center. Just be sure it is rated for the weight of
the canopy you are using, The hanging hooks were firmly mounted to the ceiling joists. The metal halide bulbs are
actually 9 inches from the surface of the water. This can be adjusted from time to time, raising the canopy higher when
Page 8
the bulbs are new, and then periodically lowering the
canopy as the bulbs age. The 4-foot long canopy is
centered over the 6-foot long tank. Because of the
suspended canopy, light from the metal halides is still
able to penetrate to both ends of the tank, although is
reduced as it reaches the bottom ends of the tank Corals
requiring high-intensity lighting would be kept in the
middle 4 feet of the tank and on the upper level of the
rock structure, while corals requiring lower-intensity
lighting could be put in the lower levels or toward the
ends of the tank.
The photo period (the period of time the lights are on)
was set for 6 hours with the metal halides on and 10
hours with the actinic blue fluorescents on, coming on
two hours before the metal halides and going off two
Sphaeramia nematoptera
hours after the metal halides. This has seemed to work
well for me, and although I have adjusted it from time to time, I have ended up going back to this lighting period and
kept it there the past two years. As far as changing the bulbs, I generally replace one metal halide bulb after the first 12
months, and then replace the second bulb 3 months later. I raise the canopy after the first bulb replacement so the bulb is
approximately 10-12 inches from the surface of the water, and then start lowering the canopy, one link at a time, about
every three months after I replace the second bulb. This helps reduce the possibility of shocking the corals from the
sudden change in light intensity. The actinic blue fluorescent tubes are replaced every two years.
I used a glass cover for the top of the tank to keep stuff in the tank, to keep stuff out of the tank and to reduce
evaporation. Later, I started removing the glass cover during the peak lighting periods (metal halides on) to allow higher
light penetration in the tank. Even with the glass cover off for
only 6 hours a day more than doubled the amount of water
evaporation.
I went with the larger wet-dry trickle filter that came with the
75-gallon tank and used an Eheim 1250 water pump for the
return to the tank from the sump. The overflow was placed in
the center of the back of the tank A hang-on ultra-violet
sterilizer was installed and an Eheim water pump was used to
draw water from the sump. The Sea Clear protein skimmer
with the Whisper 800 air pump driving two wooden airstones
was placed next to the sump and water was drawn from the
sump with a small powerhead, and then returned to the sump.
I would later upgrade this to a Red Sea Berlin venturi
skimmer driven by a Supreme Mag-Drive Model 5-water
pump drawing water from outside the sump.
Two 200-watt submersible heaters are used to keep the tank
at around 76 degrees F., at each end of the tank. I do not use
a chiller, but the house has central air conditioning and is
kept at 76 degrees during the summer months. Even so,
during the summer months, the tank temperature can rise by
a few degrees, especially during the photoperiod. So I later
added a small fan that clamps onto the one end of the tank,
which was purchased at a local discount store for $8, to blow
air across the surface of the water under the light canopy.
This fan is hooked to the light timer and helps reduce the
temperature by a couple of degrees. I found that this works
Pterapogon kauderni
Page 9
well. At first, I ran the fan all the time, but it
reduced the temperature too much during the
night. The water evaporation does increase, but
is manageable now that the fan is only on during
the photoperiod
For next month's article, I shall write about the
fish and corals, which populated this tank, and
their care. As is the case with most everything,
new technology as well as new theories on
reefkeeping, have evolved over the last several
years. The resulting changes and how they
affected this tank, as well as future plans, will be
explored in future articles.
THE FISH
Once the tank was up and running for a while, I
Cryptocentrus caeruleomaculus
was ready to look for some livestock. Keep in
mind, if you are starting from scratch, you need to let the tank fully mature for 2-3 months with your rock and sand
before adding your livestock. In my case, I used matured live rock and the same filters used on a matured tank. Although
I could have stocked it within a day or two, I still ran the system for a couple of weeks, just to be sure everything was
working the way it should. To mature a tank, you need to add a couple of fish and wait for the tank to cycle, although
there are products available to greatly speed up the nitrification cycle.
The first fish I purchased were two yellow-tailed blue damsels, Chrysiptera parasema. These feisty little devils are very
hardy, don’t get very big (approximately 2 inches), are very active fish, make a good community reef fish, and are also
good first fish for maturing a tank. They do tend to be territorial, and therefore a bit aggressive to intruders, but their size
prevents them from doing any damage. Another good candidate, and a bit more docile, is the green chromis, Chromis
viridis, which grows to about 3-4 inches. They are very active and are good schooling fish, in groups of three or more,
with their iridescent green shimmering in the
water as they dart back and forth along the
upper levels of the tank.
The next candidate was a false clown
anemonefish, Amphiprion ocellaris. These
fish are a colorful orange with white
vertical bands and black trim around the
edges of all the fins. They make good
community reef fish, grow to about 3.5
inches long, are active in the upper portion
of the tank, and make an excellent choice
for a reef tank. The clown anemonefish,
Amphiprion percula has similar coloration,
except the black lines are thicker separating
the white bands from the orange on their
bodies, among other distinctions. I also
added a Clark’s anemonefish, Amphiprion
clarkii that a previous owner had for a few
Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
years, so he was fully-grown at about 5.5
inches. I guess because of his age and size, he is a bit bolder then the smaller percula clown, and lets everyone else in the
tank know he’s boss. Although these fish have a symbiosis relationship with certain sea anemones, they can be kept
without them. Anemones must have excellent water conditions and high intensity light for survival in a tank and are only
Page 10
recommended for the advanced reefkeeper. The Clark’s anemonefish has made a home in a large soft coral known as a
colt coral in my tank. On any given night, you can
find him lying in the center of the colt coral
amongst the branches.
Now I was looking for another active fish that
would move amongst the rockwork. The sixlined wrasse, Pseudocheilinus hexataenia fit the
bill perfectly. Being one of the most active fish I
have come across, this colorful fish, with
horizontal bands of blue and red along its body
and a green caudal fin, zips in and out of the
rocks all day long and covers the entire tank
many times over. Sometimes he is seen doing a
dance along the front glass. He also makes a
good community reef fish, getting along with the
other tankmates, as long as there are no others of
his type. I have found many species of marine
fish get along fine with other species except for
their own, so you have to be careful not to add
more than one of the same species unless they are a
mated pair, or are schooling fish.
Paracanthurus hepatus
Next, I found another unusual patterned fish know as the pajama cardinal, Sphaeramia nematoptera. Although this is a
nocturnal fish, with the big red eyes, they tend to stay out during the day and just "hang" in the mid to upper levels of the
tank as if suspended on a string. You can keep more than one of these fish in the same tank, and are a good fish to get
two or three of at the same time. They can grow to a maximum 4-inch length. At the time I set up this tank, the banggai
cardinalfish, Pterapogon kauderni was not available. This striking fish with black vertical bands against a silvery white
background with many small white spots on the body and edging the fins, is another great fish to keep more than one in a
community tank. They share the same traits as the pajama cardinal in that they sort of just hang there, although they are a
bit more active, but they are a sight to see.
To take care of the lower portion of the tank,
I obtained an algae blenny, Cryptocentrus
caeruleomaculus, which can reach a length of
3 inches. These remind me of a stone, so ugly
they are cute, as they will perch on a rock and
not move for quite a while before suddenly
bolting after a morsel of food or start
"sucking" on the rocks or the glass for algae.
Centropyge loriculus
I couldn’t pass up getting a few tangs or
surgeonfishes as there are quite a few
varieties out there with beautiful coloration. I
chose a regal tang, Paracanthurus hepatus
and a yellow tang, Zebrasoma flavescens.
These surgeonfishes are very active, and
make good community reef fish. They do
require a bit more attention to special feeding
requirements than the above fish. Being
herbivores, tangs need lots of vegetable matter
in their diet to stay healthy.
Page 11
When this fish caught my eye, the
coloration and movements of the
mandarinfish,
Pterosynchiropus
splendidus dazzled me. Obtaining a
length of about 2.5 inches, this fish
reminds me of a hummingbird, with
the way it glides over the rocks and
then hangs there until it pecks live
micro-organisms from the rocks. This
fish is very entertaining to watch,
although if you have a lot of
rockwork, you may not see it for long
periods of time. This fish needs these
micro-organisms that live in the
matured live rock to feed on, so it is
not advisable to add this fish to a new
tank.
When I saw my first flame angel,
Centropyge loriculus, I couldn’t pass
it up and just had to have one for my
Zebrasoma flavescens
tank. This fish, although one of the
safest in the angel fish family for a reef tank, can still nip at some corals and clams to the point of stressing these
animals. So beware if you plan to keep a lot of delicate corals in your tank.
Except for the tangs and mandarin fish, all the above fish will do fine on a variety of flake, frozen, and freeze-dried
foods, as well as an occasional treat of live brine shrimp, which I try to obtain once a week from my local fish store.
Although the tangs will eat the same food, they do need the addition of vegetable matter to their diets. You’ll find most
of the other fish will eat the vegetable matter as well, such as spirulina flake food.
I hope this helps you in your quest for the first fish in your community reef tank, but I have only scratched the surface.
There are many more fish that would make excellent tankmates. In the future, I hope to discuss them with you as I try
them out in my reef tanks.
Next month’s article will deal with the clean-up crew, the reef janitors. These are very important to the overall balance of
your ecosystem. Until then, happy fish hunting!
Pterosynchiropus
splendidus
Page 12
fish, reptiles & Pond Supply
Located at 7 Dundas Street West
Napanee, Ontario
Monday to Friday from 10:00AM to 7:00PM
Saturday from 10:00AM to 5:00PM
New Location
905-565-1232
Page 13
Aquatic Horticultural Awards Program
(AHAP) – Current Standings
Breeders Award Program
(BAP) – Current Standings
Grand Master Horticulturist
·
Wayne & Sandy Rakestrow
·
Derek Tustin
1760
1750
Master Horticulturist
·
Myron & Sharon Iwanochko
Advanced Award
·
Barry McKee
·
Myron & Sharon Iwanochko
·
Peter Naef
·
Wayne Rakestrow
835
Expert Horticulturist
·
Susan & Jim Mantle
·
George Banavage
·
Bill Dukitsch
615
535
455
Advanced Horticulturist
·
Jim & Carol Taylor
·
Barry McKee
·
Peter Naef
Intermediate Horticulturist
·
Paul McIntosh
·
Geoffrey Daw
·
Richard Clifford
·
Paul Figueroa
·
Dave Morland
Aquatic Horticulturist
·
Dennis Bidon
·
Jenny Fisher
·
Peter Pulman
2675
1380
1285
895
Senior Award
260
220
220
195
125
125
100
60
30
20
5
If anyone requires forms, guidelines or further information
on the Aquatic Horticultural Awards Program (AHAP),
please contact AHAP Chairman Paul D. McIntosh.
Don’t forget that your pond plants are included in this
program!
·
Jim & Carol Taylor
425
Intermediate Award
(No individuals currently in this category)
Junior Award
·
Udo Rohman
·
John Adamson
·
Ivan Shaw
·
Barry Sheppard
·
Tim McCaskie
Novice Award
·
Bill Dukitsch
·
Derek Tustin
·
George Banavage
·
David Fischer
·
Zachery Langille
·
Paul A. McIntosh
·
Jim Greenacre
·
Gary Peakock
·
Larry Shank
·
Patrick Boisvert
·
Eric Man
·
Sonia Hojka
215
160
170
170
210
90
80
65
65
55
45
30
30
20
15
10
5
If anyone requires forms, guidelines or further information
on the Breeders Award Program (BAP), please contact
BAP Chairman Tim McCaskie.
Fundulopanchax sjostedti
Page 14
DraS c.a.r.E.S. Participants
Species
Status
George Devries
Paretroplus kieneri
Paratilapia polleni
Ptychochromis oligacanthus
Paretroplus nourissati
vulnerable
vulnerable
at risk in nature
endangered
Tom Mason
Cryptoheros myrnae
Cryptoheros nanoluteus
Melanotaenia boesemani
Ameca splendens
endangered
vulnerable
endangered
critically endangered
Derek Tustin
Melanotaenia boesemani
endangered
Melanotaenia oktediensis
vulnerable
Ivan Shaw
vulnerable
Cryptoheros myrnae
endangered
Barry McKee
Xiphophorus couchianus
extinct in the wild
vulnerable
Cryptoheros myrnae
endangered
Paretroplus kieneri
vulnerable
Tim McCaskie
Paretroplus menarambo
critically endangered
Ptychochromis grandidieri
at risk in nature
Ptychochromis oligacanthus
at risk in nature
vulnerable
Cryptoheros myrnae
endangered
Tilapia snyderae
vulnerable
Pundamilia nyererei
Near Threatened
Paretroplus kieneri
vulnerable
Barry Sheppard
vulnerable
Astatotilapia aeneocolor
vulnerable
Joanne Harder
Botia sidthimunki
endangered
Jeff Brown
Puntius denisonii
endangered
Page 15
Year of the Catfish
A monthly column about Catfish
Plecos (or more
properly, Loricariidae)
by Derek P.S. Tustin
W
hen you mention catfish to an aquarist,
they don’t usually think specifically of
plecos because the first image that
pops to mind is invariably the red-tail catfish, or
maybe one of the talking catfish. In fact most
aquarists, while knowing that plecos are in fact
catfish, think of plecos as belonging to their own
group. However, plecos are most definitely
catfish, and are probably the most popular group
with aquarists.
Hypostomus plecostomus
But what is a pleco? First off, a pleco, that is Hypostomus plecostomus, is properly a pleco, but all other species of
Loricariidae, while called plecos, properly aren’t. Confused? Okay, a bit of history… the first Loricariidae catfish to be
imported and become popular in the aquarium hobby was the aforementioned Hypostomus plecostomus. The hobby
being what it is, H. Plecostomus quickly became known as a “pleco”. But as more species of Loricariidae catfish were
discovered and started to be imported, exporters knew that importers and aquarium stores would recognize the name
“pleco” and accordingly attached it to the newly exported species even though they weren’t H. plecostomus.
So, accepting that we erroneously call most Loricariidae fish “plecos”, we’ll use the term for convenience. All plecos
belong to the family Loricariidae, but most people don’t realize just how sexy that name is… What, you don’t believe
me? In Latin “lorica”, the root of the family name, means “corselet”. The modern meaning of corselet is a type of
undergarment sharing elements of both a girdle and a bra (not to be confused with a corset, which is a corselet with a
firm back and usually fastened with laces). See? Sexy! Okay, maybe not, as originally a corselet was actually a piece of
armour that covered the torso of the wearer. In the case of the plecos, the family name Loricariidae refers to the
armoured nature of the fish through the presence of scutes.
Anyway, the Loricariidae family is the largest catfish family,
containing in excess of 680 species in approximately 92 genera.
(I actually feel somewhat uncomfortable using such inexact
terms, but the reality is that new species are constantly being
described, and revisions are also constantly being done.) They
originate from freshwater habitats Central and South America,
with those habitats ranging from the lowlands to the mountains
and all areas in between. The specific locations can range from
mountain rivers, brackish estuaries, acidic (or black) water and
every other conceivable locale found in the geographic region.
But what are the criteria for a catfish to be part of the
Loricariidae family? Well, as mentioned, Loricariidae are
Baryancistrus xanthellus
armoured with the presence of scutes. (Catfish don’t have
traditional scales, but they do have scutes, which are basically boney external plates.)
Page 16
Additionally, most members of the Loricariidae family are nocturnal, and are very skittish, hiding when they sense
sudden motion or see a flash of light. In fact, their sense of sight is another facet of Loricariidae that is very fascinating.
Every genera in the Loricariidae family but one (the Rhinelepini group) have what is called an “omega iris”. Just like in
humans, when a greater amount of light enters the eye, the size of the pupil
becomes smaller. However, whereas the human pupil contracts or expands, in
most Loricariidae species the top part of iris is able to form a loop (the iris
operculum) that can contract and expand, effectively covering and reducing
the amount of light entering the pupil. As can be seen in the attached
diagram, when the loop is fully expanded (covering the majority of the pupil),
the pupil left revealed resembles an inverted Greek letter omega (Ω).
Plecos are often sold as algae eaters, and while some species do eat algae, all plecos are actually omnivorous. Depending
on the species, they will eat algae, plant matter, small invertebrates, detritus and even wood. (The Panaque species are
especially well known for being able to digest wood, which is known as xylophagy. However, there is some contention
regarding the actual dietary benefit of those species eating wood.) As always, when getting any fish I strongly advocate
some research to determine the exact dietary requirements of the fish you will be keeping. Keep in mind that different
species of fish from the same location will have different dietary requirements.
The mouth of Loricariidae is also another defining
characteristic. They will have a ventral (bottom of the
head) mouth that is a “sucker”. This mouth is used to rasp
food from surfaces, and can also be used to anchor the fish
to a surface, be it a rock, driftwood or in the case of
captivity, glass…
Panaque cf. armbrusteri “xingu”
There are also several other features that can be used to
determine if a fish is a member of the Loricariidae family,
but for the most part they are specialized anatomical
features (formation of the lower and upper jaws, type of
intestines, etc.) that are mostly the pervue of experts. For
our purposes the presence of the omega iris can be a
strong indicator, but what makes a definitive identification
possible is the presence of both scutes and a lateral
suckermouth. While other species of fish will have scutes
and others will have a lateral suckermouth, if they both
feature on the same fish, the fish in question is definitely a
member of the Loricariidae family.
In general, plecos are considered community friendly fish that, depending on the species, can either be kept singly or in
groups (again, different species have different requirements). They range in size from 2 cm (3/4”) (Nannoplecostomus
eleonorae) to over 100 cm (39”) for some species in the Panaque, Acanthicus and Pterygoplichthys groups. Most easily
adapt to captive keeping, although there are several species (especially in the Panaque group) that have difficulty
adapting from wild environments to captivity due in large part to internal parasites being present in wild caught
specimens.
Many Loricariidae species (but not all) have been breed in captivity, and once again the conditioning, requirements,
gestation and results vary from species to species.
But even with all of this, we must recognize that such criteria encompass at least 92 genera, and it is therefore impossible
to quickly summarize and describe all the different species that we are all familiar with. The website planetcatfish.com
(probably the best catfish related website currently available), provides a list of all the different known Loricariidae
species. Some of the genera that are immediately recognizable are;
Page 17
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
Acanthicus
Ancistrus
Baryancistrus
Chaestostoma*
Farlowella
Hypancistrus†
Otocinclus
Panaque,
Peckolita,
(featuring the beautiful Adonis Pleco)
(the Bristlenose Plecos we see bred so often by DRAS members),
(the Gold Nugget Pleco belongs to this group)
(the Rubber Plecos and my wife’s favorite catfish),
(the Twig Cats),
(where the beautiful Zebra Pleco can be found),
(what, you didn’t know that Oto Cats are actually a pleco?),
(the Royal Plecos)
(the Clown Plecos
In fact, taking into account undescribed species,
planetcatfish.com currently has 1,185 species listed under
Loricariidae…
Speaking of undescribed species, it should be noted that the
discovery and exportation of new species of plecos has
proceeded at such a pace that the description of the new species
has lagged far behind their availability of the new species to
aquarists across the world. While several Central and South
American countries have placed restrictions on the exportation
of plecos, others have not, and new species often appear. In
order to temporarily identify the different species, two semiHypancistrus inspector L201
scientific classification system, known as “L-Numbers” and
“LDA-Numbers” has been established. (Editor’s Note - For a better understanding of L-Numbers and LDA-Numbers,
see the article “WTFish?: L-Numbers and LDA-Numbers Explained” in this month’s edition of Tank Talk.)
With the sheer number of species and
genera involved, it isn’t possible to
examine many of them in depth. My
intention with this article is solely to
give you a basic introduction to this
massive yet interesting sub-category of
catfish. However, there are numerous
sources available, both online, in print
format and even knowledge within our
own club that can provide detailed
knowledge on many of the available
species.
So next time you see an interesting pleco
come up at one of our auctions, or are in
one of the local aquarium stores and see
some different plecos, consider keeping
them, knowing that there is likely a
species that will be right for you.
Hypancistrus sp L333
* See “Eyeballs on Oddballs: Hoover, Hoover, Hoover!!!” by Derek P.S. Tustin in the December
2007 edition of Tank Talk.
†
See “The Amazing Zebra Pleco” by Doug White & Derek P.S. Tustin in the April 2011 edition of
Tank Talk.
Page 18
DRAS Executive Committee Minutes
Date: January 15, 2013
The DRAS Executive Committee meeting was held in Oshawa, Ontario, at The Tartan Tavern.
Meeting called to order at 8:00pm by Joanne.
General Minutes
Klaus motioned to approve general meeting minutes, seconded by Mary. Carried.
Correspondence
Ottawa Valley Aquarium Society will be conducting a 2 day convention March 23-24, 2013.
Treasurer
Income from the January auction was $56.00
DRAS will be making a $500 donation to the Toronto Zoo for the Madagascar Conservation Program.
Advertising
Absent.
AHAP
No submissions for a long time. A presentation on the AHAP and BAP Programs will be made at the May meeting 2013.
th
Annual Show and Auction – AQUARIAMA – April 7 , 2013
Tom will be speaking to vendors in early 2013.
BAP
A presentation on the AHAP and BAP Programs will be made at the May meeting 2013.
CAOAC
th
DRAS has received CAOAC membership and Insurance for 2013. Next CAOAC General meeting is Jan 20 .
Library
Absent.
Lunch
Absent.
Annual Social Banquet
Feb 23, 2013 is the scheduled date at the Toronto Zoo Atrium. Ron Coleman will be the dinner speaker.
Lunch
Absent.
Membership
86 members. 3 new memberships and one renewal this month.
Programs
February topic is on Fish Nutrition Javier (NorthFin) and March will be a workshop on Fish Photography with Zenin Skormorosky.
April is Jeff Mountjoy.
Tank Talk
2013 theme is the Year of the Catfish. Klaus and Derek are actively looking for DRAS authors.
Website
Running Well.
Exchange
Derek has posted all exchanges.
Forum
There are 264 members.
C.A.R.E.S.
Joanne Harder received a certificate for her loaches Ambastaia sidthimunki and Jeff Brown for Puntius denisonii.
Old Business
Tom has set up 3 CARES Convention and Aquariama planning meetings.
Derek will look to Ripley’s for sponsorship, advertising and a speaker after they are open for business.
Barry will prepare an article including a review of the 2012 CAOAC Convention and other US based conventions and itemize some
2013 international aquarium related conventions and events.
New Business
Announcements
rd
Tim McCaskie has organized a Madagascar Fish Program fundraiser March 23 at the Toronto Zoo. The evening will be a Texas
th
Hold-em Poker event with snacks and prizes. Cost is $30.00 if purchased by March 16 and $35.00 at the door. Doors open at
4:30 and the event begins at 5:00pm. Contact Tim at fahaka@ hotmail.com or on Facebook at the “Madagascar endangered
fishes” page.
th
February 19 2013 will be the next Executive Committee meeting at the Tartan Tavern.
Derek made a motion to adjourn the meeting at 9:00pm. Motion seconded by Rick. Carried.
Respectfully submitted by: Barry McKee
Page 19
DRAS General Meeting Minutes
th
Date: January 8 , 2013
The meeting was held in the cafeteria of the Anderson Collegiate Institute in Whitby, Ontario.
Meeting called to order at 8:00pm by Joanne.
Executive Minutes
Myron motioned and Doug C. seconded to approve the November Executive minutes. Carried
Advertising
Going well.
AHAP
No Report.
Annual Show & Auction
Planning meetings are underway.
BAP
Ivan has submitted 2 entries.
CAOAC
th
The Next meeting is January 20 .
Library
Absent.
Lunch
Absent.
Membership
DRAS has 84 Members. 2 new memberships today. Please sign the member and guest books
Programs
February topic is on Fish Nutrition and March will be a workshop on Fish Photography.
Annual Social Dinner
rd
Annual Social Dinner is February 23 2013 at the Toronto Zoo Atrium. The cost is $25.00. Annual Social Dinner speaker is
Ron Coleman and the topic is the “Underwater Treasures of Costa Rica”. Ron Coleman is both an avid fish hobbyist and a
cichlid researcher by profession. He is an Associate Professor of Biology at
California State University, Sacramento, where he teaches about Animal Behavior, Ecology, Evolution and specifically fishes.
He grew up in Ottawa and Oakville, and later moved to Vancouver, returning to Toronto for his PhD. Now he enjoys the
warmth of Northern California most of the year, but spends at least 3 weeks each year in the rivers of Costa Rica, finding and
observing cichlids take care of their kids. He is a member of various fish clubs and is on the Board of Trustees of the
American Cichlid Association.
Tank Talk
Catfish Articles are needed.
Exchange Editor
Everything going well.
Jar Show
The Jar Show Program is suspended until further notice.
C.A.R.E.S. program
Absent.
Website
Everything is going well.
Forums
264 members.
Announcements
rd
Tim McCaskie has organized a Madagascar Fish Program fundraiser March 23 at the Toronto Zoo. The evening will be a
th
Texas Hold-em Poker event with snacks and prizes. Cost is $30.00 if purchased by March 16 and $35.00 at the door.
Doors open at 4:30 and the event begins at 5:00pm. Contact Tim at fahaka@ hotmail.com or on Facebook at the
“Madagascar endangered fishes” page.
Evening Program
January topic was on the new CFIA rules for bringing fish into Canada. Presented by Ed Creighton and Magda.
The meeting was adjourned at 9:45pm.
Respectfully submitted by: Barry McKee
Page 20
Cajun Catfish
I
By Rick Glencross
n the DRAS aquarium hobby world, Derek Tustin has declared this the year of the catfish. Catfish, from the
order Siluriformes, come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes and are found in most hobbyist tanks. We all have
our favorites. I like the Cory’s, keeping some C. mateus (except they look a lot like cross-breeds to me), C. julii
(except most Julies in the local fish store are not Julies), and C. pigmaeus. There are so many types and species of
catfish that even the experts are often confused. However, I will leave all that classifying and de-confusing to D.T.
because I have another favorite catfish (or two, actually).
Found in the southern United States, the Blue catfish (Ictalurus furcatus) and the Channel catfish (Ictalurus punctatus)
account for most of the catfish filets sold in North America. Although they are quite plentiful in the wild, most of these
catfish are from fish farms, and most of those fish farms are found within 100 kilometers of Belzoni, Mississippi
(population 2,220) on the Yazoo River about halfway between Indianola and Yazoo City. If you are ever near Lafayette,
Louisiana, observe this remarkable fish at its finest at Mulate’s, a local roadhouse. The catfish etouffee is wonderful.
Catfish is a firm, white fish that works really well with a Cajun spice treatment. However, Cajun cooking is an acquired
taste for some. There are two ways to learn to love this type of cooking: take a trip to New Orleans and pig out on about
8,000 calories a day, or mix up a “standard” spice mix and then experiment. See the sidebar for Cajun Spices.
The next stumbling block is the “blackened” Cajun catfish. Most of the time, the catfish is actually bronzed. It is
actually easy to do and creates wonderful flavors. The difference between “blackened” and “bronzed” is simple: oil.
Blackened cooking is done without oils. This creates a really black, burnt exterior. While it is delicious, it can be very
difficult to do well. The bronzed variation uses oil or butter when cooking, allowing the fish to grill or bake more easily.
The result is more bronze than black, and great results are easier to achieve. In both cases, the spices are rubbed on the
dry, unoiled fish.
So, without further ado,
Bronzed Louisiana Catfish with Tomato Relish (serves 2)
2 boneless catfish fillets, about 375 g
85 ml. (3 oz.) clarified butter or olive oil
4 tbsp. Cajun spice mix (see sidebar)
Tomato Relish (salsa) (uncooked, fresh relish):
1 plum tomato, seeded and diced
1 green onion, finely chopped
2 ml ( ½ tsp.) chopped garlic
½ lime (juice of)
Small amount of chopped fresh cilantro
Salt and pepper to taste (probably omit here)
Completely coat the catfish with Cajun spice mix. Rub both sides and sauté with a little oil or clarified butter in a nonstick pan for 2 minutes on each side. There should be a nice bronze color to the fish.
Transfer fish to a baking dish and roast in a 400 ͦF oven for 5 minutes or until the fish is cooked and flaky.
To make Tomato Relish, combine all ingredients in a stainless bowl and let sit for an hour or two in the fridge to
combine the flavors.
To serve, top each catfish filet with a desired amount of Tomato Relish. Serve with red beans, rice and glazed baby
carrots.
Page 21
Cajun Spices sidebar:
Here are some of the common spices used in Cajun cooking. Play with these and vary to your taste. Don’t make too
much at one time; the spice mix goes stale (as do all spices and herbs) and should be replaced every six months or so.
Here is a mix to start:
1 tsp. ground pepper. White pepper is strongest, black pepper is weakest, red and pink peppers are in the middle.
1 tsp. Hungarian paprika (or substitute sandalwood).
1 tsp. each of cumin, onion powder, garlic powder
¼ tsp. each of chipotle pepper and cayenne pepper
Salt to taste
Make small amounts, refresh often. The spice mix goes stale within 3 to 6 months. I do not enjoy extremely hot foods
(like “Suicide Wings”), but I use a bit more chipotle and cayenne pepper. Experiment a bit.
Not sure if it looks like this but I want some…..
Page 22
WTFish?: L-Numbers and LDA-Numbers Explained
I
f you take the opportunity to
visit planetcatfish.com, if you
read some of the different
aquarium magazines, if you visit
several of the various aquarium stores
in the local area, or even if you see
some of the different plecos at our
various auctions throughout the year,
you will often see Loricariidae listed
not under a binomial name, but under
an “L-Number”.
As aquarists, we are very adaptable,
Squaliforma villarsi
and referring to these plecos by both a
common name and L-Number has become accepted as standard practice. I was recently at Lucky Aquarium in the
market Village Mall in Markham, Ontario and saw a tank containing several Blue Phantom Plecos, along with the label
“L-128: Hemiancistrus sp.” Just another day of spelunking through fish stores...
But where did the L-Number originate, and what does it mean? Most people don’t give it a lot of thought, but there is
actually a story behind it all.
As mentioned in my article on Loricariidae that appears in this month’s edition of Tank Talk, the popularity of
Loricariidae exploded in a relatively short period of time. As more and more regions of Central and South America
were explored for the presence of different forms of plecos, more and more species were quickly discovered, exported
and found their way into local aquarium stores. But this short period of time between discovery and exportation left no
time for the newly discovered species to be scientifically described.
Still, exporters needed to be able to describe the fish on their export
sheets.
We all know that common names, while acceptable for most fish, can
occasionally not be accurate enough to differentiate between different
fish. Arthur Werner, the owner of Transfish (which was one of the
first companies to import Loricariidae to Germany on a mass scale)
and Rainer Stawikowski of DATZ (Die Aquarien und
Terrarienzeitschhrift – translated as The Aquarium and Terrarium
Magazine) saw this developing problem and created the L-Number
system. It was hoped that as most species had not yet be scientifically
described, yet still wanting to be able to provide a unique and specific
name for the fish, they could identify each species by assigning an LNumber (“L” standing for Loricariidae).
As new species of
Loricariidae were featured in DATZ, they were given an L-Number
starting at L-1 (now recorded as L-001) and progressing forward.
All well and good, right? Well not really. Business being what
business is, another German aquarium magazine, Das Aquarium (The
Aquarium) also wanted to feature newly discovered species. But if
they used the L-Number system that had been introduced by DATZ,
Page 23
they would essentially be promoting a competitor. So instead of using an L-Number, they instituted their own labeling
system, going with the “LDA-Number”. “L” again stood for Loricariidae, but they added “DA” (for Das Aquarium) to
come up with the “LDA-Number”. Again, the numbering started at LDA-001 and progressed onwards.
But two different and competing labeling systems wasn’t the only problem. The reality was that the same fish was often
caught at differing locations and exported at different times by different exporters. As we all know, fish that are
genetically different can look very similar, and the same fish can
look very different if from different locations or caught at different
times. Therefore, instances occurred where the same fish was
described under different L-Numbers and instances where
different fish were described under the same L-Number.
So, we’ve got two systems where duplication was becoming
common and problems with assigning a single number under
either system to a single fish. Confusing. But the problems don’t
stop there either.
One of the difficulties with using either the L-Numbers or the
LDA-Numbers in North America is that they originated in German
publications that had little circulation outside of Europe, and backissues that were hard to come by. So, even though fish were being
exported to North American under both the L-Number and LDANumber, the source for hobbyists to confirm the identity of the
fish wasn’t available. Aqualog, the publisher of multiple fish
identification books, decided to publish a book, Aqualog
Loricariidae: All L-Numbers, to present all Loricariidae species
described by L-Numbers. But many of the fish described under
one L-Number in the original DATZ publication were not the same
fish under the corresponding L-Number in the Aqualog
publication. So the L-Number in DATZ may describe a different
fish than the same L-Number in Aqualog.
But... it still doesn’t end there. In attempt to rectify the problem of different populations of the same species being
identified under separate L-Numbers, Aqualog subsequently instituted an alphabetic suffix to the L-Number. So instead
of just L-136 (an undescribed Hypanscistrus species), there is also L-136a, L-136b and L-136c, each identifying different
populations of what is believed to be the same species.
And yet another problem. Currently, once the fish is described the corresponding L-Number/LDA-Number is “retired”,
and the scientific name takes precedence. But this wasn’t always the case. During the early days of L-Number usage,
once a fish was scientifically described it was known under the binomial name, but the corresponding L-Number was
recycled, identifying a new fish. Since the hobby tends to hold on to certain things even after we shouldn’t, this resulted
in some L-Numbers identifying both a scientifically described fish, and a different undescribed one. Fortunately this
practice has stopped, but there may still be legacy issues that affect certain fish, and definitely affect historical literature
on some Loricariidae species.
So...
·
·
·
·
·
·
L-Number vs. LDA-Number
Multiple L-Numbers for the same fish
The same L-Number for different species of fish
DATZ L-Number vs. Aqualog L-Number
Alphabetic suffix to an L-Number
L-Numbers being recycled
Page 24
To give an example of the confusion that the above can
cause, let’s take a quick look at Parancistrus nudiventris,
also known as the Peppermint Pleco. This fish, native to
the Rio Xingu in Brazil, was scientifically described in
2005. Prior to that it was known under L031, but also
under L176, L300 and LDA004. So, three L-Numbers,
one LDA-Number, one common name and one scientific
name – all for just one fish...
How about the Zebra Pleco? Three L-Numbers (L-046,
L-098 and L-173), the common name and Hypancistrus
zebra.
Blue Fin Thresher Pleco? L-093, L-153 and L-195,
common name and Hypostomus villarsi.
Peckoltia ucayalensis? Also known as the Bola Pleco, L146, L232 and LDA30.
Peckoltia ucayalensis
The L-Number and LDA-Number systems, for all the duplication, error and confusion, have given at least some clarity to
identifying a given fish. The concept is sound, but the execution was lacking. If the hobby had agreed to one numbering
system rather than the two that seemed to originate from commercial competition, there would have been less conflicting
duplication. If there had been some communication between DATZ and Aqualog, the erroneous and contradictory
labeling of species between the two publications would have been avoided. If the numbering system had have been
clearly though out before being instituted, the recycling of numbers would probably not have occurred.
So, with such a range of problems, is the system even useful? Well, at present there are 457 L-Numbers and 105 LDANumbers describing various Loricariidae. If not for they numbering system, these species would probably only have
been identified by common name and/or collection locale.
I’d have to say that the L-Number
and LDA-Number systems are a
useful tool, but should not be relied
upon as the sole and definitive
source for identifying Loricariidae.
And looking back on it that is what
these systems were designed to be,
an interim tool to help with the
acquisition and discussion of new
species, not the end source.
So the next time you encounter a
fish labeled with an L-Number,
you’ll have a better idea how it
came to be identified as such, and
realize that what you may acquire
is likely a fish on the cutting edge
of aquatic discovery.
Hypancistrus zebra
Page 25
AQUARIUM HOBBYISTS
YOU CAN HELP THE ENVIRONMENT
Got an unwanted fish? Know of someone who has an
unwanted fish? Our Society will assist in trying to find homes
for any unwanted fish.
Most aquarium fish, plants, crayfish, snails, frogs, salamanders
and turtles are not native to Ontario. Releasing them into a
lake, river, pond or wetland is not only against the law, but it
could establish a new population which has environmental and
economic impacts.
Most aquarium plants and animals sold in pet stores are
imported from Florida, Central and South America, Africa, and
Southeast Asia. Some of these species are tolerant of colder
climates and can survive over winter in Ontario. Although you
may think you are doing them a favor, releasing aquarium
animals into Ontario waters is NOT a humane way to dispose of
an unwanted pet. They may soon die due to predation or
temperature extremes, or may die slowly due to starvation,
parasites and diseases.
Page 26
My Green Wet Thumb:
The African Water Fern
A
s aquatic horticulturists, we have numerous
different types of plants to try and grow.
Some of use specialize in certain types
(Aponogetons, Cryptocorynes, Echinodorus, etc.) and
become caught up in the sheer number of species
potentially available within that group that we
sometimes overlook other genera with only a few
species available.
I’m guilty of this, but from time to time I come across
something that I had previously overlooked and end
up buying. Early last year I was in the position to tear down and replant my 75-gallon aquarium when I decided to move
it from the main floor of my house to the basement. I took the opportunity to build a new stand, refresh the gravel and
re-aquascape. Of course, I planned it well enough in advance that I was able to sell many of my excess plants at the
2012 Aquariama. Since I had planned my new layout but hadn’t finished planting, I wasn’t planning on buying any new
plants. But during the course of the auction a bag of Bolbitis heudelotii came up. I was shocked because the bidding was
very, very low. It wasn’t something I was specifically looking for, nor had I planned on buying it, but with such a low
bid, I threw my hand up and a minute later was paying for something I hadn’t planned on getting.
I had actually had this plant once before, and it hadn’t done all that well in my tank. With the exception of several
different Anubias species,
I’ve tended to stay away
from rhizome plants. I’ve
had the obligatory Java Fern
(Microsorum pteropus), but
more to get some easy
AHAP points than due to an
actual desire to grow the
plant. But with my tank
pretty much torn apart, I
was able to put some
thought into trying to
integrate the plant into my
aquascape,
rather
than
wedge it in someplace.
Just under a year later I am
able to look into my 75gallon and see over half the
back covered in this
graceful and exotic looking
plant. If you haven’t tried it
before, you really should.
Page 27
This plant was named in honour of J. Heudelot, a French agriculturist, plant collector and explorer who collected plants
in both Guinea and Senegal. In 1825, at the age of 23, he was appointed the director of the French plantations in
Senegal. He served in that post until 1831, and then collected various plants in West Africa until his death at age 35 in
1837. For those of you not familiar with your African geography, Guinea and Senegal are countries in West Africa, and
that is the native range of this plant. It is unclear if J. Heudelot discovered the plant, or if it was named in his honour.
As indicated above, this plant grows from a rhizome. As with all rhizome plants, you must not bury the rhizome or else
your plant will die. Instead, it is best to attach the rhizome to a solid object, such as a rock or piece of driftwood. While
most people tie the plant to the object using either fishing line or dark thread, I attached it the 3-dimensional Styrofoam
background of my tank using small curved pieces of wire.
In nature, the plant will grow in both emersed and immersed forms, usually along the sandy banks of shaded streams. In
the hobby, most people have had the best luck growing this plant immersed. It is highly recommended that this plant be
placed in a position of high water flow, and it is reported that growth is significantly increased in the presence of CO2
injection. It is tolerant of a wide range of lighting conditions. While also very tolerant of a wide temperature range, it
has been reported that the higher end the plant may wither and die, so it is probably best suited for water in the cooler
range.
Regarding propagation, the best method is to cut the rhizome using sterile scissors or a sterile knife. New plants will
grow from each section of the separated rhizome. If you are acquiring a new plant from a source that has not informed
of their water parameters, the plant may not take immediately. It is recommended that old leaves be removed, and in
their place new leaves will grow, usually with a vibrant bright green colouration. Older plants will continue to grow, but
as
the
plant
ages,
the
leaves
will
take
on
a
darker
green
colour.
In short, this is a very user-friendly plant that can make a beautiful addition to the aquarium of aquatic horticulturists of
all skill levels. Should the opportunity present for you to acquire this plant, it really is one you should try.
Bolbitis heudelotii
Latin Name:
Common Name:
Height:
Width:
Light:
Temperature:
pH:
Hardness:
Growth:
Difficulty:
Origins:
Bolbitis heudelotii
African Water Fern
Bolbitis Fern
Congo Fern
15 – 40 cm (6 – 16“)
15 – 25 cm (6 – 8“)
low – high
20 – 27oC (68 – 80oF)
5.0 – 7.2
4 – 8 dH
Slow – Fast
Moderate
West Africa
Page 28

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