MBW Walk magazine 1961 - Melbourne Bushwalkers

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-------------------------------------------·-------
What
Every
Walker
Knows!
Any experienced walker can tell you of tight spots that he has
been in. The time when he found the creek flowing the wrong
way and had to sit down and re-orientate himself. The time
when the weather went bad on him and he had to use all he
knew to keep warm and dry and find his way. At such times
the walker must muster all the skill and experience that he has
accumulated over the years to get himself and his party safely
home again.
Under such conditions there is extra stress on
equipment. The urgent battle through exuberant vegetation, the
penetrating wet, the bitter cold, the necessity for cooked food.
All these exact a toll of skill and en~rgy.
If at such times there is a failure of equipment then the burden
is made greater and lives are endangered.
THE WISE WALKER USES "PADDYMADE" GEAR AND SEES
THAT IT IS KEPT IN GOOD REPAIR.
THEN HE KNOWS
THAT HE CAN RELY ON HIS EQUIPMENT.
See that your gear is "PADDYMADE"- the gear that has been
serving Walkers in Australia for nearly thirty years.
From:
PADDY PALLIN
PTY. LTD.
201 CASTLEREAGH STREET
SYDNEY
Victorian Agents:
AU SKI
343 Little Collins Street
Melbourne
I
·--------------------------------------------------
qoalk
A
JOURNAL
THE
OF
MELBOURNE
BUSHWALKERS
1961
NUMBER TWELVE
CONTENTS
•
PRESERVING THE MOUNTAIN TOPS
Editorial .
3
THE ALPINE NATIONAL PARK
.... J. Brownlie
4
ALPINE HOLIDAY
.. A. Schafer
7
ALONG THE TRACK WITH HILLARY
R. Taylor
13
"WILKY"
A. Bennett
15
THE BUSH MUSIC CLUB
F. Pitt
18
18
THE END OF THE TRACK-C. B. Green, M.W.C •.
JOYS OF THE FEDERAL TRACK
M. Halls
19
ALFRED WILLIAM HOWITT
G. McKinney
20
NOT AS BAD AS IT SOUNDED
"Pommy"
22
LET'S GO TO THE SNOW
''Nature Lover"
25
NEW MAP ISSUES
26
SEARCH AND RESCUE
W. Thompson
TWENTY YEARS AFTER
27
29
THE GROUND WE WALK UPON
B. Short.
30
SCALYFOOT
J. Brownlie .
33
FOREST HERITAGE
F. Halls
35
MOUNTAIN MUSTER
40
THE COMPLETE WALKER
S. Larsen.
43
WHAT PRICE A WALKER?
"Q.M."
44
TRAMPING AROUND GROOT EYLANDT
L. Mabus
48
HAPPY VALLEY COMES TO LIFE
N. Richards ..
59
WALKS SECTION
Beveridge Flats - Mt. Selwyn - Mt. Murray - Mt. St. Bernard
Taradale - Loddon Falls - Lyonville .
Lederderg Ford - Bear's Head - Long Pt. - Lederderg Ford .
Bruce's Ck. - Cottrell Spur - Westcott Ck. .
Yarra Glen - Yarra Ridge- Yarra Glen
Sunbury - Emu Ck. - Wildwood - Sunbury
Cover Photo: Mt. Feathertop from Diamentina, by John Brownlie
52
56
61
62
63
64
<Geoff Niddon Photo>
EDITOR: NORM RICHARDS
Tel.: WJ 9524
CLYDE PRESS. 608-610 High Street, Thornbury. Phone: JJ 2902
all around and, of course, Mt. Feathertop dominates the scene. On our left
it towered high into the sky like a gigantic pyramid, a wisp of white cloud
playing about the apex, and between stony slopes riven by perpendicular cliffs,
down poured the noisy waters of Feathertop Creek. Behind and above ran the
undulating outline of the Razorback. Turning to the right, and at our feet, lay
the great basin of the Diamintina Valley itself, as though lying between the
outstretched arms of a giant- Mt. Hotham being the giant, its left arm the
Razorback, and the right Machinery Spur and Mt. Loch.
Surveying our route further down the spur, we could see an indistinct pad
leading over a lower series of knobs in scrubby country, down to where it
became timbered and branches into a number of minor spurs each dropping
sharply into the Kiewa, giving rise to some doubt as to the best course to take.
Once below the treeline navigation on a spur becomes difficult, so it was
not surprising that by 11 a.m. we found ourselves off the main spur in a tangle
of ferns and messy vegetation. The going was rather tedious until reaching
Feathertop Creek about a mile upstream from its confluence with the Kiewa.
But when a section of the creek led under the dappled shade of overhanging
Paperbarks, this was voted the most idyllic lunch spot of the trip. About an
hour's paddling and scrambling along the creek and pushing through tall
reeds and ferns on the banks brought us to the Kiewa's west branch. The river
was roaring like thunder and through the spray our old friend, Dungey's Track,
could be seen on the opposite bank.
On our side the track continued a short distance up the flats of the creek
from which we had just come, but then ascended one of the fingers of the
Diamintina Spur for a few hundred feet to finally loop around to a high slope
overlooking the river. The track here is wide enough for vehicular traffic but
fallen timber seemed to indicate that the cattle had not made their annual
visit to the Plains. We kept going upstream, passing the remains of an old
survey camp, and descended to broad pleasant flats, the track winding around
gnarled and knotted river-type gums, at length fording the shallow-bedded
Diamintina Creek. On the far side, the track led past a number of dry lagoons
then up the spine of a peculiar thin spur, something like a railway embankment, dividing the turbulent Kiewa from the cosy, sheltered flats of the
Diamintina. This spur took us well above the river. Then another steep pull
and we were on the extremity of Machinery Spur. It was mid-afternoon and
we missed the cool breezes which temper the heat on the ridges, but soon the
track dropped suddenly and sharply down to the ford which leads directly
into Blairs.
The first thing that caught the eye was the yard. The previous year, with
cattle about, the grass had been eaten down to suburban lawn level, but now
it was almost a foot high. We looked in the hut and found it was occupied by
a large black snake which was soon dispatched before we settled down to an
early camp.
An early camp augurs well for an early start, so at eight next morning, we
were well along the track leading up to the Plains. This track branches off
from Dungey's just behind the hut, crosses a stream and then negotiates a
few gully-heads and spurs. When the gradient increases the track divides into
a number of pads, care being taken not to follow the one which swings right to
a gully. The plan is to keep to the spur as much as possible and the main track
is soon easily picked up again just before it leads past Westons, the next port
of call. The hut and yard are perched on a small sloping clearing a few
hundred feet below the rim of the Plains. Long grass in the yard again pointed
to the absence of cattle.
Up from Westons the track becomes much eroded and rock strewn, and
leads through low bushes, over small snowfields, by belts of snowgums, rising
gently all the time until the edge of the Plains is at last seen - marked by a
line of brown boulders. However, it is best to avoid the temptation to climb up
to the Plains at this point but follow the track which swings left and then
right, and before long a magnificent valley will open out before one's eyes.
The valley is clad with tussocky snow grass and threaded by meandering
streams, and we found that the occasional shady snowgum was a welcome
relief from toiling in the shimmering heat as we followed the contour-keeping
cattle pads.
Page Ten
W A L K
~--·········-·--··-··-························-···-·
what's going on out there?
Is it time to get going on our walk:>
At least a snap-happy camera enthusiast was WIDE
A WAKE to the opportunity of getting a perfect snappy
picture on ILFORD Roll Film.
It never fails you!
For PLACES and FACES
ILFORD
S.P. ROLL FILM
NOW FREELY AVAILABLE AT YOUR CHEMIST OR DEALER
Page Eleven
~----------·---------------------------------------
WALK
A lone snow pole in the centre of a broad curving saddle connecting the
Plains to one of its outliers was our next landmark. We passed this as we
traversed the saddle northwards and there on the far side in the timber glinted
new galvanised iron-roofing of one of the two new huts recently erected in the
area. After entering the timber we found a rather overgrown pad leading down
a bushy slope to the sheltered valley of Tawanga Hut Creek, the ruins of its
namesake still standing on the far bank. Downstream from the hut site the
stream cascades over a series of small rock pools, just the spot for a cool-off
from the exertions of the morning.
Camp was set up and we set off for the Fainters. This meant climbing out
and heading our valley before picking up the track leading to those large
rocky knobs known as the Niggerheads. Less than a mile off, according to our
map, but it was over an hour before we had got through the heath and up to
the trig-point. Even without packs it's a long walk along the dusty pads which
wind through rocky groves of snowgum until reaching the wide open areas of
the Little Plain. It was in the vicinity of Salt Camp Creek that we saw the
first herds of cattle, smaller in number than usual. On the far side of the
creek the ground rises to where a few low trees cast the last shade available
before the exposed slopes of North and South Fainter are tackled. Under the
clear skies of summer the distances were quite deceptive, so it was not surprising that the time was 4.30 p.m. when we had reached the northern peak.
The air was cooler on top, and looking towards the west, we could trace our
earlier route along the silhouetted outline of the Razorback. About halfway
along the northern section of the Razorback, which runs from Mt. Feathertop
to Mt. Beauty, rises Pyramid Hill, in the vicinity of Dungey's Gap. Looking
beyond this aptly-named peak we could see a vast complex of low but tangled
ranges and valleys bounded by the wide Ovens Valley near Bright. In the
north-east the afternoon rays of the sun were illuminating what appeared to be
the vertical walls of Mt. Emu in the Kiewa Valley. High on the horizon, due
east, rose the escarpment of Spion Kopje, an outlying tongue of the Mt. Nelse
section of the Bogong High Plains, and just in front its smaller brother,
Little Spion Kopje, from which, in a week's time, we were to peer down on
to Lake Guy almost directly below. Turning to the south-east sector, it was
Mt. McKay and the Frying Pan Spur which were the salient features of the
Plains. From Mt. Beauty to the Frying Pan there were glimpses of the 20-mile
long winding S.E.C. road.
Turning to head back to camp, we dropped down to the Little Plain and
the temperature rose! Warm air from the heat of the day was still trapped
in these sheltered snow plains, but, though tired out after a long day's walking,
we were back at camp in half the time taken in going out.
It was the morning of the sixth day out when we left Tawanga Hut Creek,
climbing back to the saddle marked by that solitary snow pole, at last making
for the rock-banked Plains. The first thing we saw was a stockman with a
small mob of Black Polls. Grazing has been restricted and we were sure that
many of the pads we followed were beginning to disappear once more into the
the tussocky grass. However, in many places it was possible to walk tn almost
any direction quite easily. Usually the Plains are pretty sodden in parts, but
this had been an unusually dry season.
The sun was blazing by the time we reached Mt. Jim, a low hill of looselypiled rocks and scrub, yet one of the highest landmarks for some distance
around. At eleven o'clock we were resting under the shade of the timbercrested ridge known as Mt. Bundarrah. Ahead Mt. Cope dominated the scene,
while on the left we overlooked the deep and extensive reaches of Pretty Valley.
By the time we had passed Mt. Cope the faint cattle pads had given way
to a new road which passes by Cope Hut, where we entered our names on the
last page of the visitors' book and wondered if this year would be the close of
a chapter in the history of this hut- at least as bush walkers have known it.
Avoiding the road, we left the hut and followed the snow pole line between
a number of small rises. On coming to the top of one of these rises we saw
Rocky Valley Dam, full for the first time and reflecting the blue of the skyso peaceful and serene in the enfolding hills. But we took a turning and in a
few hundred yards were at Wilkinson, where we stopped for the next few
days before continuing the second half of the tour- which is another story.
P~ge Twelve
W A L K
cALent~ the ~rack with ~illar\1
Rob. Taylor.
(An account of a Mountaineers Camp at Mt. Field National Park, Tasmania, during the Easter Holidays, 1960, at which Robin Mitchell, Peter
Batiste and Rob Taylor represented the Melbourne Bushwalkers).
It is not everyone that has an opportunity to climb with the conqueror
of Everest. With that thought I felt I had justified my extravagance in
attending the mountaineers' camp held under the auspices of the Tasmanian
Adult Education Board. (The five day trip cost about thirty-five pounds). Now,
when I look back several months after the camp I feel that my claim was
justified many times over.
SIR EDMUND AT PETERSON HUT
-R. Mitchell
I have a host of memories of those five crowded and exhilarating days and
a few more tangible momentoes as well. Among the latter are included an
autographed map, some rather bleak looking photographs and a large patch
on my sleeping bag, the last reminding me never again to leave it unattended
before a roaring fire.
When I arrived at Franklin Square, Hobart, early on the Friday morning,
I found numerous miserable looking walkers huddled under verandahs, watching the gusty showers sending scraps of paper afluttering along the empty
street. However, the air of gloom was soon dispelled when we were told
that heavy snow was falling on the ranges. The coach journey took us along
the Derwent Valley and through the pleasant hop-growing district surrounding
New Norfolk until the entrance to the park was reached. From this point
onwards the transition was amazing. In the space of a few miles the grassy
meadows were replaced by a dense, gloomy rain forest dominated by the regal
Antarctic Beech. Even Sherbrooke Forest seems parched and unfertile in
comparison. As the altitude increased, so the forest thinned out until only a
sparse, hardy alpine fiora was left on the plateau. Amongst the tenacious
herbs an occasional dark linear Cypress-pine or twisted Snow-gum stood out
in stark contrast to the white, windswept peaks. If nothing else, the scenery
was what one expected of a mountaineers' camp.
Upon our arrival at the Lake Dobson camp site the locals descended like
a wolf pack on all available huts, and Robin and myself were faced with the
delightful task of pitching camp in the snow. This procedure was complicated
by the fact that there appeared to be no limit to the distance that tent poles
W A L K
Page Thirteen
could sink into the ground. However, after much trial and error we succeeded
in erecting our tents on the only fiat area in the whole camp - a moss bog.
Our choice of such an exposed site amused the locals no end, but when the
snow eventually melted it was we who had the last laugh. Those who had
pitched in deep gullies sheltered from the wind found that their tents were
in the middle of small creeks. The serious business of pitching camp completed, we channeled our energies into modelling a snow woman. She collapsed soon after being photographed, no doubt shocked by Robin's amorous
approaches. 'Ihe remainder of the afternoon was spent in exploring a nearby
tarn (a small lake, hollowed out by glacial action).
That evening Sir Edmund gave the first of his intimate fireside lectures.
He described the organisation and planning of an overseas climbing expedition and emphasised that only climbing ability and intiative were required to
make a success of such a venture.
His first overseas trip was run on meagre finance and equipment; but once
having established a good reputation, financing expeditions became less difficult. I obtained the impression that he was very proud of being a selfmade man.
By this time a strong blizzard had blown up and it was with some difficulty
that we staggered the few yards to our tents. Once snug inside I was quickly
fast asleep, but alas this fine state of affairs did not last long. I was soon
rudely awakened by the flapping of the icy tent wall against my face. What
a time for the cord to snap! With many blasphemous remarks concerning
the quality of tent cords I clambered out of the tent and fumbled with the
two frayed ends. Twenty minutes and two frozen hands later I was once
again snug inside but this time sleep eluded me. I lay on my back watching
the contortions of the walls as they were blown in many directions. Everytime
a particularly strong gust hit the tent, I held my breath and said a little
prayer.
By the morning the snowing had ceased, but the deep snow drifts
(Which were ten to fifteen feet deep in places) necessitated a revision of the
programme. The proposed trip to Mt. Mawson was replaced by a walk to
Mount Field East. At lunch time it was amusing to see people disappearing
up to the eyebrows in mud or blundering around blinded by the smoke. This
intermission was followed by an assault on Mount Field East, where gale
force winds blew us from rock to rock like a flock of forlorn sparrows. The
programme on Sunday was considerably more strenuous than that of the
previous day, and it was a tired but happy crew who returned to camp that
afternoon. The fourteen mile tramp included such features as the Golden
Stairs (a notable misnomer at this time of the year), the Mt. Mawson Plateau
and the Tarn Shelf. Upon our return to the camp I had the stimulating
experience of talking with Sir Edmund during which he expressed some uninhibited views about back-slapping politicians and diplomats. The Monday's
steep climb to K Col on the Mt. Field West Track was made extremely difficult
by the deep snow drifts and the biting winds. At the Col the Peterson
Memorial Hut was officially opened by Sir Edmund. In the rush that followed
the opening of the door, thirty-odd walkers succeeded in cramming into the
eight-man hut.
In the evening Sir Edmund followed up his previous lectures on his Antarctic adventures and overseas lecture tours by giving an informative account
of Search and Rescue procedure in New Zealand. This was of particular
interest to Robin and myself and we were most impressed by his account of
some of the more hazardous rescues that have been successfully accomplished.
His casual way of describing the technique involved in crossing a dangerous
crevasse or a swollen torrent left many of us a little flabbergasted.
Regretfully we broke camp the next morning, and headed back for Hobart
after a trip which although not favored by good weather, had nevertheless
proved a success. For me the highlights of the camp had been the lectures
by Sir Edmund in which he had kept his audience spellbound with his accounts
of such diverse subjects as what to say to a girl paralysed on the brink of
a precipice and the method of divorcing the top half of an umbrella from its
handle. The impression of Sir Edmund that I brought back with me was that
of a man of initiative and of physical and mental strength.
Pa9e Fourteen
WALK
-Alan Bennett.
This year our club turned twenty. Next year we get the key of the door,
and this will be very welcome, because we have the door, but the key which is
supposed to belong to it doesn't work. The door is on Wilkinson Memorial
Lodge, in the Rocky Valley area of the Bogong High Plains. We are now
the proud owners, but entry is usually through a window after much muttering
and cussing, trying to open the legitimate entrance with the less legitimate
instrument provided for the purpose.
"Wilky" was built by the S.E.C. to house staff whose duties included
collecting information on snowfall, to be used later in the planning of the
Kiewa Hydro-electric Scheme. When it was no longer needed for this, it
was acquired by the Ski Club of Victoria, and named by them The Wilkinson
Memorial Lodge.
~.,;-~~~"~\.... tlo -'> ~
-~~
WILKINSON LODGE
Robert Wood Wilkinson, after whom it was named, was one of the pioneers
of skiing in Victoria, as well as being a keen walker. In the years between
1909 and 1930 he made some notable trips through Victoria's snow country, and
was particularly attached to the Bogong High Plains area. He was an early
member of the S.C.V., and was its President for many years. One of his
special interests was the Rovers' ski lodge, on the slopes of Mt. Cope, and a
photograph of him now hangs in the lodge. He died in May 1938, and, in
September of that year his ashes were scattered on the mountains he had
known and loved.
The S.C.V. acquired the house as a projected base for ski touring. Now,
it has been said that many skier's idea of an ideal place to ski is a long run
with a Ski-in Bar at the bottom long enough to allow consumption of two
beers on the way through, and the bottom station of a chair lift at the other
door. As a novice at the sport I really can't comment. But Wilky had very
little use for ski touring over a period of some years. <In parenthesis, why?
Many bushwalkers are also skiers, and ski touring, at least to one who hasn't
tried it, appears to be a most rewarding variation on the bushwalking theme).
On reading the Visitors' Book, one finds very few entries by skiers. Most of
the visitors have been walking parties in the warm months of the year. And
so, after spending a lot of money on it, the S.C.V. offered it for lease or sale
at a nominal price.
WALK
When the subject was first broached to the MBW, there was much
understandable caution on the part of members. After all, it is rather remote
from the more popular walking areas of the High Plains; it is a long way 250 miles - from Melbourne, and was, at the time, rather hard to get to.
we had, during our life as a club, managed to get along quite satisfactorily
carrying our house on our back, and, although we might sometimes feel as
though we were carrying the kitchen sink, this seemed no good reason for
paying good money to buy a real one buried in the bush hundreds of miles
away.
Still, many of the members who had happily carried their home with
them in the early years of the club had now acquired families, and found it
almost impossible - morally or physically - to get away for trips to remote
areas. A Club lodge would enable them to take the family too. And there
was the opportunity of a lease, with the option to purchase. So on this basis
we took a twelve months' lease, to see just how many people would use it.
Well, the number surprised many who had opposed the idea, but it was still
felt that it did not represent a really large section of the club. It would cost
an estimated £50 to put the place in reasonable shape, plus a certain fixed
annual cost, without the "nominal" purchase price - still unstated. So a
questionnaire was circulated to members, asking, among other things, whether
they would use it, were prepared to work on its repair, would sit on a committee
of management, and would, if necessary, contribute towards the cost of
repairs. The response to this was disappointing to the enthusiasts. A meeting of those who expressed willingness to serve on a committee of management
decided to make a <very) nominal offer to the S.C.V., and elected a provisional
committee to manage the lodge.
Then came the big blow. The nominal offer was turned down, and a
much larger figure named. At this price it was simply not a proposition for
the Club as a whole. But the enthusiasts thought there was still a chance of
raising the wind by donations. And this Is what happened. A healthy sum
is already in kitty, with another smaller but still healthy sum outstanding in
promises. The "News" of January-February this year proudly announced that
Wllky "is now ours."
We have already, since the beginning of the lease, had several work parties.
The roof has been patched, but we still need an iron roof to make a permanent
job of it. Incidentally, the first patching, done last year, stood up surprisingly
well. The bunkroom downstairs, which had been a wet, mouldy, smelly mess
when we started was, to our surprise, quite dry when the first party went up
this year. The main visible difference is a bright <and how!) new coat of
orange paint. Access is now much easier in good weather - in fact, there
is a road junction about 150 yards from our front door. There was quite a
lot of discussion on what colour we should paint it - a blue or green that
would tend to camouflage it from the new road, or a bright yellow or orange
which would show up in fog, to the benefit of slightly-bushed walkers in bad
weather? Rightly or wrongly, the bright orange won the day. Many people
felt that, with the bad weather reputation this end of the High Plains has, the
more shelter huts available - and findable - the better.
Apart from the roof, there is still plenty of work to be done, mostly inside.
Plans are still fluid, but, by the time the committee is satisfied, it will be
quite a snug little berth. There have already been some enquiries about its
use in winter. This will have to be considered very carefully indeed, from
several points of view. Safety is the biggest consideration. The area around,
particularly on the Rocky Valley side, is considered to be downright dangerous
in the snow season, to the extent that it is closed to skiers by the S.E.C. The
presence of a 200-foot cliff face on the Basalt Hill quarry, Rocky Valley Dam
itself, and the bad weather conditions which frequently prevail there are just
some of the reasons why the S.E.C. has issued warnings to all the ski and
walking clubs to keep away in winter. A Search and Rescue operation is never
a picnic. Under severe snow conditions it is just so much more arduous and
dangerous, and less likely to succeed.
WALK
MT. BOGONG FROM BOGONG HIGH PLAINS
(Block, courtesy Melbourne Walking Club)
This leads me to the important point of our responsibility as owners of
"Wilky." We are in the area on sufferance. The country belongs to the S.E.C.
who very understandably impose certain conditions which they expect us to
observe strictly. Along with the Rover Alpine Crew, with their very wellequipped Bogong Chalet over the ridge from us, we are, as far as I know,
the only people being granted regular access to the area. To the S.E.C.,
tenants such as ourselves would be a prime headache if we did not comply with
their requirements. If we play the game with them, they will reciprocate the Rovers and ourselves have already had experience of that. So the rest is
up to members using the Lodge. The conditions to be observed will eventually
be published for the information of all. If you are going there, be sure you
know the drill- it is not onerous, but is mainly commonsense and courtesy.
And to end on a brighter note - Club members who have not been there
yet, should give it a go! It is a glorious spot, and even the confirmed throughwalker will not be too proud to make it his base for a few days while he
explores the surroundings.
A TENT THAT'S DIFFERENT
Ideas that are really new are rarities; but a type of tent placed on the
market recently seems to be one of them. Originally developed in co-operation
with the Army as an open-sided shelter for issue in the tropics, it has now
been modified for general use so as to enable it to be either a completely
enclosed tent or an open shelter. Key to its adaptability is its elementary form.
Merely a large rectangular sheet with a system of eyelets and cords, it can be
pitched in a large variety of ways - "abdulling" is easy - and being of waterproof nylon material it can be creased or rubbed with impunity. The makers
claim that the pores of the fabric are small enough to make it waterproof, but
not airtight, so that, although it will keep the water out, the tent can still
"breathe." The tent's many virtues would seem to make it ideal for use under
adverse circumstances where it is impossible to pitch a good taut tent, such
as in heavy scrub or on steep, irregular ground.
WALK
Paqe Seventeen
THE
':Bu6h cm.u6ic etub oi q)ictoria
-Frank Pitt
Every country has its folk-lore: the popular expression of the people's
experiences and aspirations; and Australia is no exception. Though many
people doubt that a country whose civili&ed settlement goes back only a century
and a half could have a genuine folk-lore, there is, beyond doubt, a vast
amount of song, verse, story, phrases and words that can only be so described.
Those of us who have become aware of it find that the more we study it, the
more fascinating the study becomes, and the more we are aware of the vastness
of the field.
One alarming feature is that it is only lately that Australians have begun
to appreciate their own folk-lore, and now we are trying desperately, before il
is too late, to gather as much of it as possible from its originators: the old
people who are inevitably carrying their creations and knowledge to the
grave. The task of collecting is so vast, and needs such expert handling and
assessment, that many people believe it is impossible; it is stated that 20
years, or even less may see the end of the era.
Some years ago, a musical play called "Reedy River," which incorporated
many Australian traditional songs, was successfully staged in Sydney and
Melbourne. One of the actors, accordionist and mouth-organist Frank Nickels,
later gathered together a few enthusiasts, and established a group to play and
sing traditional and characteristic Australian songs. After a few months, the
name Billabong Band was adopted. The group is still very active in this
field, and has performed on T.V. and for recordings.
There was such evident enthusiasm for this type of song that Singabout
Nights were started in private homes, to enable more people to participate.
The Singaabouts themselves became so popular that, soon after transferring
permanently to a Scout Hall in Toorak, the Bush Music Club was formally
established, in June 1959, to carry on this activity and allied functions. The
Club aims to provide a focus for all people interested in Australian songs,
dances and music; to assist in collecting such material; to spread the knowledge of these songs and dances; and to provide an opportunity for people to
enjoy singing and dancing.
One of the latest plans of the Club is to assist members to learn to play
suitable musical instruments, so that there will be more musicians to lead
more people in singing more songs, so that the songs are passed on to more
people.
It is plain that there is a popular interest in, and demand for, such
activities, where people can join in, instead of just watching. There is no
doubt that they enjoy it, for the monthly Singabouts are enthusiastically
attended by large numbers, and in mid-1960 a second Singabout Night was
established in Pascoe Vale. Several Bushwalkers are attending Singabouts,
and if you would like to join us, you will find a cordial welcome and a
t~oroughly enjoyable evening. The Secretary is Mr. Robin Bailey, 15 RiverSide Road, Ivanhoe (phone JX 1180).
'l'HE END OF 'l'HE TRACK
CHARLES BUCHANAN GREEN
OBIT.: 1st July, 1960.
Although many of us had not seen him since he retired and went to live
at Noosa Heads, in Queensland, three years ago, the news of the death of
Charlie Green was a shock to all who knew him.
For thirty years a member of our sister body, the Melbourne Walking Club,
he was Treasurer for three years and Secretary for fifteen. In the latter
role, especially, his pleasant unassuming manner and decisive mind made him
one of the best-known and respected walkers in Victoria.
Page Eighteen
WALK
do'J6 oi the ~eaeral ~rack
-Merle Halls.
The Federal track Is really a disused timber tram-line which once carried
logs along the Ada Valley between Starling's Gap and the Ada mills. A wetday reconnaissance of a section of the track indicated that under such conditions the leeches were In full cry. So the leader decided that if it was wet
on the day of the trip he would take an alternative route so as to avoid them.
The weather promised fair when he disembarked from the van at Starling's
Gap, so off we set along the Federal track; but typical of springtime, just as
we were ftnishing lunch, down came the rain - and out came the leeches!
DERELICT BRIDGE- FEDERAL TRACK
There are at least six bridges along the track; high trestle bridges with
broken sleepers and a general state of disrepair. Care is required in crossing
the broken spans, and some of the party were most reluctant to tackle them
At the first bridge it was apparent that the track would traverse some fine
mountain ash forest with groves of myrtle beech; but much of the pleasure was
lost by the necessity to make stops to "de-leech!" One thing, however, was clear;
those in the party wearing trousers and gaiters fared much better than the
"shorts brigade."
Late in the afternoon we left the Federal track and turned on to another
track to find ourselves crossing the Ada River on the longest bridge of
them all.
We camped about two hundred yards from here, and it wasn't very long
before there was a cry of "Snake," and a four-footer tiger snake was dispatched. It wasn't long before another small "tiger" was found under an
old piece of iron.
There was heavy rain overnight, but Sunday was a beautiful spring day.
After leaving camp we tramped to the top of the "High Lead," which was
once the haulage track down to Big Creek and the Latrobe River - and a
really steep bit of track it was. Returning to Dewey's Spur Road, forest
access roads and fireline tracks led through some very fine forest country.
During the morning a copper head snake was captured by the Club herpetologist who placed it in a plastic bag and carried it for the rest of the day
in his water bucket <with zipp-fastener). We lunched in a particularly nice
gully in warm sunshine, and then wended our way back to a rendezvous with
a Club party of day walkers and the van at Powelltown.
W A LK
Paqe Nineteen
The
Melbourne Bushwalkers
OFFICE-BEARERS, 1960-61
President:
BILL THOMPSON
Vice-Presidents:
NORM. RICHARDS
FRED HALLS
Hon. Treasurer:
IAN PHILLIPS
Hon. Secretary:
VAL. GOLDSMITH
Hon. Walks Secretary:
ROB. TAYLOR
Hon. Social Secretary:
HELEN DOWNING
Lodge Manager: ALAN BENNETT
Betty Emslie
John Brownlie
General Committee:
Dora Hills
Robin Mitchell Athol Schafer
Barbara Muir
Mike Stevens
Editorial Sub-Committee:
N. Richards, W. Thompson, J. Brownlie, R. Bittner
THE MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS:
CLUBROOM: Room 110, Victorian Railways Institute,
Railway Buildings,
Flinders Street, Melbourne, C.l.
(Open every Friday evening from 8 p.m. to 10.30 p.m.)
Advertising:
R. G. Bittner
49 Elizabeth St., Melbourne, C.1
Tel.: 62-1716
Distribution:
W. Thompson
39 Allison St., Box Hill Nth.
Tel.: 89-8240
"DEDICATED TO ALL WHO APPRECIATE THE GREAT OUTDOORS" . . .
WALK is a voluntary, non-profit venture published by the Melbourne
Bushwalkers in the interests of bushwalking as a healthy and enjoyable
recreation.
PATRONISE OUR ADVERTISERS!
WALK can only be published with the assistance of our advertisers, and
we are grateful to them for their support. We urge all our readers to support
them whenever possible, and so help us to continue our efforts in publishing
this magazine.
Page Two
W A L K
o4Lire.:l Ubilliam ;J.lowitt--
AND HIS FRIENDS, THE ABORIGINES
-Graeme McKinney
In times when world leaders move and counter-move for advantage, and
dividers of the land prosper, perhaps outrageously, it is refreshing to reflect
on those remembered for their good deeds to others. Such a one is Alfred
William Howitt, scientist and explorer, and in his own unobtrusive way,
humanitarian.
At the age of thirty, with only eight years in the Colony, the rescuer of
the only survivor of the ill-fated first expedition to cross the Continent was
already quite a remarkable man. He had explored the little known and normally dry Lake Eyre district of South Australia during a severe drought, and
startling gold rushes followed his Government Prospecting Party as it progressed through the unexplored mountains of Gippsland. On his return to
Melbourne in June 1861, the youthful and seasoned Howitt was immediately
sent to Central Australia to search for the Burke and Wills Expedition which
had not been heard from for many months, resulting in the discovery of the
lone John King near Cooper's Creek at the point of death.
It would be a great pity to let the Burke and Wills centenary now pass
without mentioning this man, and I feel there could hardly be a more fitting
tribute to his memory than his delightfully understanding diary of finding
King with the blacks.
For its simple humanity, the diary is a tonic for those bewildered by
"man's inhumanity to man" ... and perhaps thought-provoking for those with
little care for Australia's REAL pioneers. For Dr. A. W. Howitt, the gold
warden and police magistrate for Gippsland, the Secretary for Mines, the
Audit Commissioner and member of the Victorian Public Service Board, the
renowned scientist and author of books on geology, timbers, and primitive
societies, was plain Alfred Howitt with another distinction, and quite a rare
one by all accounts - an initiated member of a primitive East Gippsland
tribe. He introduces us to these life-long friends of his as he finds their
'whitefellow guest' in a native gunyah at Cooper's Creek.
"I found King sitting in a hut the natives had made for him, and he presented a melancholy appearance - wasted to a shadow - and I found it
occasionally difficult to follow what he said. The natives were all gathered
around seated on the ground, and looking with a most gratified and delighted
expression."
After eight days nursing King back to health and trying to dispatch
carrier pigeons to Melbourne with false tails 'borrowed' from local crested
pigeons, Howitt on the 23rd September, 1861, rode along the creek in search
of the natives before returning to Melbourne: "I could not think of leaving
without rewarding them for the kindness they had shown to Burke's party
and particularly to King. They made a great commotion as we rode up but
seemed very friendly ... The tomahawk was the great object of attraction.
and after that the knife; but I think that the looking-glass surprised them
most. On seeing their faces reflected, some were dazzled, others opened their
eyes like saucers and made rattling noises with their tongues, expressive
of wonder. We had quite a friendly palaver, and my watch amused them
immensely. I made them understand that they were to bring the whole tribe
next morning to the camp to receive their presents, and we parted the best
of friends."
And next day, as good as their word: "About ten o'clock this morning our
black friends appeared in a long procession, bawling out at the top of their
voices as usual. We collected them together on the fiat below, and the uproar
was deafening. With the aid of King, I at last got them all seated before
me, and distributed the presents - tomahawks, knives, necklaces, lookinggl~sses, combs, sugar and 'whitefellow• nardoo <fiour) - amongst them. 1
thmk no people were ever so happy before, and it was very interesting to see
how they pointed out one or another whom they thought might have been
Page Twenty
WAlK
overlooked. The piccaninnies were brought forward by their parents to have
red ribbons tied around their dirty little heads, and an elderly woman, who
was very kind to King, was loaded with presents.
"Some old clothes were then put on some of the men and women, and
the affair ended with several of our party and several of the blackfellows
having an imprumptu 'corroboree,' to the intense delight of the natives; and
I must say, very much to our amusement. They left making signs expressive
of friendship, carrying their presents with them. I feel confident
that we have left the very best impression behind us, and that the 'white
fellows,' as they have learned to call us, will be looked on henceforth as their
friends, and will receive the kindest treatment in their hands in cases of
emergency."
The delightful homeliness of this thirty-year-old explorer and rescuer is
noticeable in King's narrative, which King related to Howitt whilst recovering
at Cooper's Creek before his return to Melbourne; and here are a couple of
scenes showing the simple genuineness of these native folk who cared for
the lone survivor.
ALFRED WILLIAM HOWITT, C.M.G., D.S.C.
(Courtesy Vic. Historical Soc.)
Two or three days after the natives found him wandering on his own, one
of the women to whom he had given part of a crow returned with some
nardoo, saying that she could spare no more as her arm was so sore:
"The thought struck me of sponging it in water boiled in the billy. During
the operation, the tribe sat around muttering to one another. Her
husband sat down by her side, and she was crying all the time. After washing
it I touched it with some nitrate of silver, when she began to yell, and ran
off crying out 'MOKOW! MOKOW!' <Fire, Fire). From that time, she and
her husband were very kind to me, and gave me nardoo both night and morning, and whenever the tribe was about to go on a fishing excursion, he used
to give me notice to come along with them."
"They were very anxious to know where Mr. Burke lay, and one day
when we were fishing nearby, I took them to the spot. On seeing his remains,
the whole party wept bitterly, and covered them with bushes (as is their
custom). After this they were very kind to me; and I always told them that
'white man' would be here before two moons, and pointed up; and in the
evening when they came with nardoo and fish, they used to talk of the
'white fellow's' coming, and at the same time pointing up.
"I also told them they would receive many presents, and they constantly
asked for tomahawks, called by them 'bomay ko.' From that time till when
W A L K
Pa9e Twenty-one
the relief party arrived, a period of about a month, they treated me with very
great kindness, and looked upon me as one of themselves.
"On the day I was found, one of the tribe who had been fishing came to
tell me that the 'white fellows' were coming, and the whole tribe sallied out
in every direction to meet them, while the man who brought the news helped
me over the creek, where I shortly saw the party coming down."
King could barely have lived much longer - Dr. Wheeler of the relief
party thought perhaps three days ... one fortunate turn of luck in an extraordinary chapter of catastrophe.
When Welsh, the second-in-charge and twenty-two year old surveyor rode
up he saw a figure hardly recognisable as a human being except for the
remnants of clothes which he wore, a figure collapsed on the sand in an
attitude of prayer.
Alfred William Howitt lived on until 1908, when he died at Bairnsdale,
aged 78, still striving to gather together his life's work on eucalypts and
natives.
NOT AS BAD AS IT SOUNDED
-"Pommy."
Pommie had belonged to a rambling club back in the old country, so when
she came to Melbourne she soon contacted the bushwalkers.
'
"There is a walk next Sunday in the Dandenongs. Be at Flinders Street
Station at 8.45 a.m. Bring some lunch and wear stout shoes."
This sounded like the walks she was used to. What did one wear above
the stout shoes? Slacks, she supposed. There was no dimculty in recognising
the group at the station; but some of them looked terribly tough. Why did
they need those huge packs - when all they had to carry was their lunch and
a raincoat? Nearly everyone was wearing boots - was the walking going
to be hard then? Perhaps it was because of snakes! Australia was said to
be crawling with them. She felt a bit scared.
By the end of the day she knew her fears had been groundless, though
she wished she had taken her shorts. The walk, which was not hard, had
been through pleasant hill country, scattered with farms; really not so different
from the West of England she was used to. Lunch had been fun. lighting
fires and boiling the billy, instead of stopping at some little country pub for a
tankard of beer or a cup of tea with your sandwiches. Some people had even
cooked chops or steak over the fire - she must try that next time. And they
saw no snakes. The toughies with the boots and large packs belonged, she
was told, to a species known as "week-enders." Apparently they went off
on camping trips carrying everything - tent, sleeping bag, food, etc. - on
their backs.
"You must try it," they said.
She wasn't interested. However, she became an enthusiastic day-walker.
Knowing few people in Melbourne she was glad of the company and soon
made many friends. The Dandenongs trip was not typical. Often they
travelled by furniture van - not over-comfortable but cheap - to reach
more inaccessible places where you could walk all day without seeing a sign
of habitation. She grew to love the strange, dry, grey-blue Australian countryside, with its feeling of vastness and emptiness, so different from her own
gentle green land whose beauty is enhanced by picturesque villages and old
farm houses.
"Why don't you come week-ending?"
She still wasn't interested, though realising that she was missing some
of the best scenery. And those nights round the camp-fire sounded intriguing.
But how could anyone enjoy walking with all that weight on their back?
It is now nearly three years since Pommie became a bushwalker. Her
commando boots and framed pack are standard equipment on even the easiest
of day walks. She is a regular week-ender and has even done a ten-day hike.
Rambling in England would seem very tame now, but occasionally on cold,
wet days, sitting huddled under a cape eating a damp lunch, she thinks
nostalgically of a roaring fire and a tankard of ale in one of those cosy pubs.
WALK
Clear a space
of ten feet
around
the fire.
Keep the fire
small.
Be sure it is extinguished before you leave.
and smokers , , , make
sure your cigareHe or
match is OUT before
throwing if away,
FORESTS
WALK
COMMISSION
OF
VICTORIA
Page Tw•nty-three
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Page Twenty·four
WALK
~et'" <go to the Snow!
"Nature Lover"
Did you hear about the "nature lovers" who set out in shorts to see the
snow at Donna Buang? We'd be surprised if someone didn't pass it on -there
were enough people around to report it.
It happened like this - the dropping-off point for the Sunday club walk
happened to be at Cement Creek - in August - with the Donna road closed
by snow at that point. When our van arrived we wondered what had struck
us. Instead of the quiet solitude of our usual spots, we were confronted by
something as busy as St. Kilda beach in summer. Vans, parlour coaches,
cars•. pe~ple, c~lldren, dogs, babies, barbeques, hot drink stands - all spread
out m smgle file, except the people, along the side of the Acheron Way narrow enough at any time. Our van was open season for the snowball
throwers and the war was soon on as our boys rose in a body and gave chase.
IN THE SNOW IT'S INDIAN FILE
The policemen on duty had a very philosophical air about them and casually
directed the van to keep moving, so the party had to dismount in dribs and
drabs, or be carried on for a few mlles. Thus it was some time before the last
of the party collected - that is, all of it that appeared. Of the original 19,
we now had 10! Surely a record loss before the trip had even started.
The only thing to do then was to head off in the direction of Donna Buang,
in company with hundreds of trippers until we found the rest of the party.
The main difference between us and our surrounding company was that they
were wearing slacks, heavy jumpers. scarves, hats, mits, etc.. while most of
us had shorts, shirts, boots and packs - apparently to go to the top of
Donna!
Various comments heard en route:
"Nature lovers - whow!"
"Gee, he's a hero"- <about one of our biggest blokes).
We heaved a sigh of relief when we found the rest of the party and
were able to head off up a track to Mt. Victoria- this wasn't marked on the
map but we were willing to risk anything. The leaders did a good job playing
"Good King Wenceslas" in the 2-3 feet of snow, and they were fairly certain
that none of their party would stray. The weather stayed fine and the sun
glinting through the trees on the snow made a very attractive picture as we
hopped onto snow-covered ferns. over fallen trees - and out of deep snow
when we missed our footing.
WALK
Page Twenty.five
Lunch was a time for primus stoves and cold feet - none were dry by
this time - so it was a quick one and we were off again, soon reaching
the top of Mt. Victoria and the jeep track along the Boobyalla Plateau. This
was also deep in 2-3 ft. of snow but was easy walking (in the back of the line
anyway>. A threatening snow storm did not eventuate and the sun shone
again as we dropped down to the Donna turntable (some did the last stretch
on groundsheets). Most of the trippers had departed by now, and the snow
had lost the virgin whiteness we had so admired higher up. A couple of
venturesome cars still remained and we pushed one to start it before we
dropped off on the steep track to Warburton. Three miles of downh111. This
was fairly easy going while the track was still covered with snow, but when
this disappeared and mud took its place there was many an unexpected sitdown. However, the reward was beautiful views over Warburton and to the
west until we eventually reached the aqueduct, and the footbridge over the
rushing Yarra.
A pie, a drink, a change of footwear, into long trousers and we were away
laughing - tired but infused with the warm glow that comes with overcoming
the elements.
cnew
ctrlap ~ddUed
1.
HOWITT
Dept. of Lands and Survey
1 Inch to 1 Mile
This map of the State Topographic Series is one of the most interesting
so far as walkers are concerned as it covers probably the best walking area in
the State. The area covered stretches from just east of Mt. Sterling eastward
to Mt. Murray, and from some distance north of Mt. Cobbler to just south of
Howitt Hut. One hundred feet V.I. form lines are shown throughout. An
interesting point is that the map's naming of Mt. Magdala, No. 1 Divide, etc.,
rekindles the old controversy as to which is really which-we don't knowhave it your own way tbut we don't like these).
DATE COMPILED: 1959 (issued June 1960l.
2. COBBERAS
Dept. of Lands and Survey
2 Inches to 1 Mile
Another State Topographical map. Dye-line prints only are available.
Form lines are drawn at 50 ft. vertical interval. Issued in four quarter sheets:
A, B, C and D.
DATE OF ISSUE: JULY 1960.
3. BEECH FOREST
Dept. of Land and Survey
Similar in format to No. 2 above.
2 Inches to 1 Mile
DATE OF ISSUE: AUGUST 1960
4. MELVILLE CAVES-MT. KOOYOORA
Melbourne Bushwalkers
Approx. 2 Inches to 1 Mile
Shows the main points of interest in the Melville Caves district. The
approaches to the area are also shown.
DATE OF ISSUE: AUGUST 1960.
5. KING-HOWQUA-JAMIESON
Victorian Mountain Tramping Club
1 Inch to 1 Mile
This is a re-issue of a well-known map of the Buller-Howitt area. Many
new forestry roads are shown in detail.
DATE OF ISSUE: (B) 1960.
6.
Melbourne Bushwalkers
EASTERN BARRY MTS.
1 Inch to 1 Mile
This map is the result of correlation of existing maps made during and
after a Club trip through the area last Easter. Detail is mainly concentrated
on the ridge of the Buffalo-Buckland divide to Mt. Selwyn, then the ridge of
the Barry Mountains to Mt. St. Bernard.
DATE OF ISSUE: JUNE 1960.
Page Twenty-six
WALK
Search ana
CR.e6cue
W. I. Thompson
The sole aim of search and rescue operations tS. and R .) is the saving of
life, and all activities are directed towards this end. Members are not called
out on missions of a frivolous nature, or when there is no hope of finding the
person alive.
The S. and R. organization evolved slowly and improvements are stm
being made. After the war, when the Federation of Victorian Walking Clubs
was re-formed, several members were keen on community service. In 1949 a
man was lost on Wilson's Promontory and several members voluntarily searched
for him. Their performances and ability so impressed the police that after
several conferences an embryo organization was formed.
The first search was in 1951 at Warrandyte, when about 40 members helped
police look for a woman who was later found drowned. In April, 1952, a party
was lost in the Marysville area. S. and R . men, army, M.M.B.W. and locals
all assisted the police. The victims were found.
In August, 1953, an extensive search was conducted in the Mt. Donna
Buang area to find two young people, Kirk McLeod and Jennifer Laycock (who
afterwards became known as "the snow girl") . In this search, the army and
M.M.B.W. men also assisted. After being out for four days, the couple were
found alive but badly frostbitten.
SEARCHERS SCAN THEIR MAP
In June, 1955, another major search was conducted on the Baw Baw
Plateau for a lost man, Mirhan Haig, and also one of the S. and R. searchers
who became separated from his team. At least 170 bushwalkers were engaged:
also searching were Forestry Commission and M.M.B.W. men. The Lands
Department made maps available and the army provided some radio com·
munication. This search lasted 10 days, again in bad snow conditions, which
prevented Haig from being found. After this search a State Search and
Rescue Committee was formed, with representatives from the Federation of
Walking Clubs, police, Lands Department, Mines Department, Forestry Commission, M.M.B.W. and the army.
There followed a period of comparative quiet when no searches were necessary, and the State Committee became moribund. In November, 1959, an old
lady was lost near Blackwood and we were called out. The recall was given
before any of our group left town. In April of this year <1960) five boys were
delayed on a snow walk from Mt. Howitt to Mt. Selwyn in the Barry Mountains.
W A L K
P~qo
Twenty-seven
The police called us out but the boys were found before we left Melbourne.
In July we were called out to search for an old man in the bush country
between' Olinda and the Sylvan Dam. Forty walkers with Forestry Commission,
M.M.B.W. and local men assisted the police in combing the area for one day.
From the bushwalkers point of view, S. and R. is controlled by the
Search and Rescue Sub-committee of the Federation of Victorian Walking
Clubs. This committee meets in December, just before Christmas, before
Easter, in the middle of June and at other times as circumstances necessitate.
The committee consists of a Convener, who is elected by the Federation; a
Police Liaison omcer <P.L.O.) and Deputy; a Field Organizer <F.O.) with a
list of six Deputies; and one Delegate and one Observer from each Club. The
lists of Club members available for S. and R. are kept by the F.O. together
with other personal data of address, phone numbers, and any specialist knowledge held. Information of names, availability, Club lists, contacts, omcebearers and search histories, etc., are kept in five copies of "The Field
Organizer's Book." Two copies of this book are kept at D24 and three by the
F.O. The committee also maintains a F.O.'s Box which contains message pads,
pencils, stationery, hurricane lanterns, etc., and a well-stocked first-aid rucksack.
After the Baw Baw search the police realised that in the future more
people would be venturing into our bushland, with the likelihood of increased
incidence of search, and so a Police Search and Rescue Squad was formed.
Originally ten men under a Senior Constable, they have the job of looking for
all persons, dead or alive, in Victoria and, sometimes, the Riverina. To do this
they are now each equipped with full frogman outfits for diving jobs and about
£200 worth of walking equipment. The squad has its own radio-equipped car.
They took over our organization and search methods and now are fully and
effectively in control of all searches. OUr F.O. controls the F.V.W.C. side of
the search, but it is with the acquiescence and co-operation of the police.
Relations between the police and ourselves are on a very friendly basis and
co-operation at a high level of emciency. A search is nominally controlled by
the Superintendent of each district but circumstances dictate how much a
personal interest he can take. The squad has reached a high level of training
and is always most ready to co-operate in our practices.
An important part of S. and R. is the contact system, by which the
individual members are advised of searches. It is essential that lists of names
and phone numbers be kept up-to-date at all times. Contacts are generally
wives of senior or less active members of the Clubs who are generally available
by phone. Each Club has at least two contacts and there are two Federation
contacts whose only lists are of Club contacts. The Club contacts are also
used on normal Club trips as the focal point for enquiries if a party is
delayed. Normal practice is for the leader of every Club trip to check in with
the Club contact upon return.
Now, what precisely happens on a call-up? When a person is reported
missing, the local police are usually advised by relatives. The local Constable
will advise his District Superintendent and conduct a local search, assisted by
local residents. Usually after one day the Police S. and R. Squad is called in
from Melbourne, and if they do not find the victim in 24 to 36 hours, and
circumstances warrant it, the Senior Constable in the field will send a call for
us back to D24. On receipt of this call, the police advise both the P.L.O. and
F.O. of the search and collect them both by car for a conference at D24, after
which the F.O. collects his gear and is taken to the search area where he sets
up his Field Headquarters. The police also advise the Federation Contact of
the area to be searched and the number of men required. She, in her turn,
phones a contact from each Club and passes on this information. Sometimes
the :·~;0. ph<;mes the Clu~ contacts direct. The Club contacts then ring, firstly,
the A pr1or1ty men, tellmg them where the search is and when to report to
D24; and, secondly, the "B" priority men, alerting them in case they are
required. Thus, within three or four hours, a body of up to fifty men is available at Police Headquarters to be transported to the search area. On reporting
to D24, members give their names and Club to the P.L.O. who radios them to
the F.O. With tl?-is advan~e information, the F.O. has time to pick his leaders
and mark out h1s team hsts before their arrival. On leaving D24 the P.L.O.
Page Twenty-eight
w A LK
'Lwent\1 ~ear~ o4Jte,..,
The first small beginings of the Melbourne Bushwalkers occurred in April
1940 when a number of persons of like interest - actually a foreign language
class - took part in a short informal walk from Belgrave to Mt. Morton and
return.
So April 1960 found us celebrating our 20th birthday. We had celebrated
our tenth aniversary by re-traversing the route of the foundation walk to Mt.
Morton, but this time the advance of suburbia proved a hazard and we had to
modify the route, finally going to Belgrave South for lunch, visiting Mt.
Morton on the way, and finishing up by going through Kallista and Sherbrooke
Forest during the afternoon.
During the lunch halt there was a good deal of reminiscing by the old
timers, many of whom came to the lunch site by car with their families. A
large birthday cake, complete with candles, was cut with due formality, and
Life Member Egon Donath spoke very briefly about our earlier days, mentioning
how pleasing it was to see the Club thriving and as active as ever. He
looked forward to our fiftieth anniversary, and wondered just how much of an
inner suburb Mt. Morton might have become by then.
(Continued from previous page)
will appoint a group leader for each bus or truck to be responsible for the
arrival of the bus at Field Headquarters. As further men are required they are
called up by the contacts in the same fashion. After the recall, at the end of
the search, the men are checked into Field Headquarters as they return from
their search areas. Transport back to the city is provided, and each man is
then responsible for checking in with his Club contact.
It is the aim of the S. and R. Committee to maintain efficiency, and so
regular annual practices are held. Hitherto they have been weekend practices,
but last May a day practice only was held. A practice usually consists of a
demonstration of stretcher making and carrying methods, a discussion on
procedure on the Saturday night and a simulated search and all its ramifications on the Sunday. Normally the police are only too pleased to assist, to
increase co-operation and to give their own men search practice. These practices allow men from all Clubs to get to know and co-operate with each other
and to accept team leadership, perhaps from another Club member, all of
which is most essential in a genuine search. It also allows them to become
familiar with field procedure and the use of radio equipment, etc.
In any big search of the future, radio communications will no doubt be
supplied and operated by army personnel. The police have a number of portable transceivers which have been developed by Pye Radio of England. The
range of these sets is not very extensive, being limited to three or four miles,
less in dense scrub, especially when transmitting.
The international distress signal is three sounds or signs. Sounds may be
made by radio, whistles, gun shots, gelignite, etc., and signs may be smoke, rows
of trees dragged into position, trampled snow, patches of coloured materials, or
flashing mirrors. Two whistle blasts repeated after five seconds is the S. and
R. recognition signal and four evenly spaced whistles is the recall signal. This
is likely to be given at any time, but especially on the hour. The international
system of ground-to-air signals is also used by S. and R. and any of the above
methods may be used for making signals to search aircraft. The use of smoky
fires by S. and R. men is not encouraged, this method being reserved for
victims. Semaphore signalling is not used but a set of signals made by different
positions of the arms, each with a special meaning is used.
First aid is a complete subject in itself. S. and R. men are encouraged to
undertake St. John courses and this qualification is specially listed in the F.O.'s
book. On a search, the F.O. endeavours to place one first-aid man in each
team and on finding the victim he has complete charge of medical operations,
until the arrival of a doctor or the victim reaches Field Headquarters.
From the above survey it will be seen that Search and Rescue is a comprehensive and growing voluntary organization, dedicated to the saving of
lives of those distressed or delayed in the great Australian bush.
W A L K
Page Twenty-nine
EDITORIAL:
Cf're..,eruin'3
the '11lountain ~"P-'
For many years it has been our dream to have some large tract of Alpine
country reserved for use as a National Park. Various proposals have been
made from time to time, but none has come to fruition. Now, however. there
at last appears to be substantial reason to hope for a change. Already, since
the setting up of the National Parks Authority in 1956, the Government has
shown its interest by proclaiming a number of parks in other areas. Perhaps
the most noteworthy of these is Fraser National Park, adjoining Eildon, as it
was a spontaneous act on the Government's part. During the past year they
have added Hattah Lakes (44,000 acres), Mt. Richmond ()534 acres> and Mt.
Eccles (80 acres).
About two years ago a sub-committee of the Federation of Victorian
Walking Clubs was commissioned by the Victorian National Parks Association
to prepare a memorial, concerning the desirability of an Alpine National Park,
for presentation to the Government. The long job of doing this is now nearing
completion, and the first article in this issue of WALK tells something of what
is proposed. Other articles serve to show the nature of our interests and
activities within the proposed park. It is almost certainly true to say that
mcst of the trips and happenings described in our pages have taken place
inside the recommended boundaries of what we hope will soon become Victoria's Alpine National Park.
The project is a grand one, and well worthy of the work being put into
it. It has yet to culminate in an effective Act of Parliament, and before this
happens there is much to be done, particularly in the field of publicity. These
days popular demand is a powerful force, and our members can do much to
promote it by making themselves acquainted with every aspect of the proposal.
If we value the country as we have inherited it then we must discharge our
debt to posterity by doing our best to have it handed on as we received it.
WALK
Page Three
~lte ~rouna we qoalk CU,pon
-Barry Short.
Many bushwalkers have often wondered about the formation of the rugged
gorges and the high mountain country amongst which they have so often
wandered. If you have a passing interest in the matter- and it does make
your walking doubly interesting - it is as well to remember that river valleys
and road cuttings provide an excellent method of giving you an insight into
the way that the rocks were laid down and have since been changed around
by earth movements. The faults which cause so much of this disturbance are
the result of the earth re-settling itself- the earthquakes which occur in
Japan and South America are today's examples. Here, briefly, are the geological histories of some of our better-known areas.
Many of our longer walks are on our high plateau country- at elevations
between 3000 and 5000 ft. Examples which come to mind readily are the
Baw Baw and Buffalo Plateaux, and the Dargo and Bogong High Plains.
Although it may seem that these would be of similar construction, they are
in fact of two kinds -one represented by the first two, and that by the second.
In the case of the Baw Baws and Buffalo, the areas are of granite <easily
detected by the large grains of quartz and mica). This is a rock formed during
slow cooling of molten material deep down in the earth. It has eventually
come to the surface through an uplift of the land and subsequent wearing away
of all the covering material over a very long period of time. Continuing
erosion has still further worn away the surrounding rocks which were not so
hard, and left the remnants as the plateaux we know. On the other hand, the
Bogong and Dargo High Plains are composed of a much more rapidly cooled
volcanic rock- from lavas which spilled from the tops of volcanoes at a later
date and formed rocks in which you can hardly detect any grains. When this
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WALK
Page Thirty
sort of lava is cooled very rapidly it produces a texture like glass. These rocks
are also hard and not so ready to wear away, so this area also stayed at the
higher elevation. It is interesting to note, however, that the neighbouring
Mt. Bogong is of the deeply-formed granite.
The Sugarloaf of the Cathedral Range, near Buxton, is another example of
an outcrop of the deeply-formed rock; this time it has a slightly different
composition and is called granodiorite, but the large grains are again apparent.
However, the Razorback, which connects this with The Cathedral, is composed
of thick beds of steeply-dipping sandstone, these were originally horizontal
but have been tilted by some long-past earth movement.
The Lederderg Gorge, north-west of Bacchus Marsh, is one of the most
rugged river gorges in Victoria, and was excavated entirely from resistant
Ordovician rocks (geological ages are set out in a table at the end of the
article). This happened about the time that men first appeared on earth.
THE ORGAN PIPES- COLUMNAR BASALT
A fault developed across the course of the then Lederderg river producing a
scarp face and causing the water to drop many hundreds of feet over it. As
this scarp face was gradually eaten away by the force of the water, a gorgelike valley was formed. In a case like this, the river is said to be "rejuvenated''
and here the cause is called the Rowsley Fault. It is known to extend for
some distance, from the Anakies, past Bacchus Marsh, and north towards
Mt. Macedon. It is responsible for the Blackwood Ranges, and the Brisbane
Ranges are blocks upthrown when the faulting occurred.
The Otway Ranges in the south-west were once a broad dome with fairly
recent- geologically speaking <Tertiary)- gravels and sands (hardened into
rocks) covering a dome of sandstones deposited at a much earlier date
<Jurassic), around the time when the first birds appeared. A fault appeared
along the coast between Airey's Inlet and Cape Otway and caused these Tertiary rocks on the south-east of the Ranges to tilt at high angles- these can
be seen in the valley of Stoney Creek, west of Airey's Inlet. On the western
and northern flanks, however, these Tertiary rocks continue to cover the area,
but have been more and more worn away towards the top until, at the higher
levels, the underlying Jurassic rocks are exposed. They also appear in the
river valleys where the river has cut down.
WALK
Page Thirty-one
The Grampians are also composed of massive beds of resistant sandstones
and grits, deposited during the Paleozoic era, and are about 300 million years
old. They were laid in horizontal beds in Carboniferous times <about the same
time as some of our black coal deposits were formed) and are somewhat
younger than the rocks in the Lederderg Gorge. Then faulting occurred and
the rocks in the Grampians area slipped in such a manner as to tilt the beds.
DIPPING STRATA NEAR MT. MAGDALA
Mt. Cobbler in distance
-R. Taylor
Over the course of time the sandstone became very hard and resistant, but
erosion forces eventually reduced the whole area to a plain at the end of the
Cretaceous period. The picture is then that of a plain with hardened sandstone
to the west of the fault and softer older rocks to the east. The area was then
uplifted as a whole during the Tertiary periOd - streams developed and cut
deep valleys. The older softer rocks were removed from the eastern side of
the fault plane and the Grampians sandstones were left as the high mountain
ranges of tOday, with their deep scarp face towards the east.
BRIEF GEOLOGICAL TIME TABLE
Time
<millions
of years>
Era
Period
60
Cainozoic
Pleistocene
Tertiary
Advent of man
Extinction of dinosaurs
190
Mesozoic
Cretaceous
Jurassic
Triassic
Climax of reptiles
First birds
Primitive mammals
Paleozoic
Permian
Carboniferous
Devonian
Silurian
Ordovician
Cambrian
Rise of reptiles
Coal deposits
Age of fishes
Rise of land plants
First known fish
---
---
550
more than
550
P~qe
Thirty·two
Pre-Cambrian
Character
WALK
Seal\I ~oot- -John Brownlie.
Amongst the many and varied natural interests we have come across in
the past twelve months whilst out walking, one might find a small place in
these pages.
His common name is Scaly Foot - a snake lizard - but he goes under
many others too, such as Jumping Snake, Saltbush Snake, Slowworm, etc., the
latter being quite a misnomer as he is far from slow when you try to capture
him. We found him near Bendigo, trapped in an aqueduct, otherwise we
would not have seen him at all for he is extremely timid and rapidly retreats
to protective cover.
This lizard <to give him his full name> - Pygopus lepidopodus <lepido scaly, podus - foot>, is one of eighteen species found throughout Australia and
New Guinea. Our fellow was about 13 inches long, with clean scales and a
very long tail - over twice the length of the head and body. At first sight
you would think him a snake and unfortunately he suffers for this, but on
closer inspection his back legs are visible as small scaly flaps, one on each side
of the body. He also behaved like a snake, striking and attacking as if his
bite were lethal. But it was all bluff as his mouth was quite free of fangs and
poison glands - he had rows of teeth similar to those of the smaller legged
lizards. The colour and markings of the species varies greatly - ours was
uniformly grey with small dark markings around the head, a large unblinking
eye <his eyelids are immovable>, and ear openings in a similar position to
that of the skink lizards <snakes have no external ear opening>.
I shall finish with a plea for the protection of this small lizard. He is one
of many unique and interesting small snakes and lizards found throughout
Australia, and although the small snakes do have fangs and poison glands
they are quite harmless. So when you see them scurrying for protection
amongst the logs and bushes, let them be - they do no harm and do play a
part in maintaining the balance of nature.
WA LK
Page Thirty-three
--------------------------------------------------WINGS FOR
THE
WALKERS
• • •
I
by TAA
FOR WALKERS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS •.•
T.A.A. announces three 1961 summer tours in Tasmania
similar to T.A.A.'s first fabulously successful long week-end
Bushwalkers' Tovr to Cradle Mountain in March, 1960.
I
MT. FIELD NATIONAL
PARK
Here's the T.A.A. itinerary for AUSTRALIA
DAY WEEK-END: January 27th-30th:
FRIDAY 27th JANUARY: 7 p.m. depart
Melbourn~ Airport by T.A.A. Jetliner for
Hobart· 9.00 p.m., arrive Hobart Airport
and tra'vel by special coach to Mt. field
National Park. Arrive at Lake Dobson
approximately midnight.
SATURDAY, SUNDAY AND MONDAY
MORNING: Conducted walks through this
magnificent country, guided by members
of the Hobart Walking Club.
MONDAY AFTERNOON: Return
by
coach to Hobart Airport. Depart Hobart
Airport 6.00 p.m. by T.A.A. Jetliner for
Melbourne. Arrive Melbourne Airport
8.00 p.m.
The same itinerary is also
available for the SECOND tour to Mt.
field National Park during the MOOMBA
LONG WEEK-END, friday, March lOth, to
Monday, March 13th.
CRADLE MOUNTAIN
Q
There's an interest·packed itinerary for
T.A.A.'s second Cradle Mountain tour
during the MOOMBA LONG WEEK-END,
March 10th-13th:
FRIDAY, March lOth: Depart Melbourne
Airport 6.30 p.m. by T.A.A. Jetliner. Arrive Devonport Airport 8 p.m. and travel
by special coach to "Waldheim" at Cradle
Mountain.
SATURDAY, SUNDAY AND MONDAY
MORNING: Conducted walks through the
unbelievably beautiful scenery of Australia's "most perfect peak."
MONDAY AFTERNOON:
Return by
coach to Devonport Airport via forth
falls and Sheffield.
Depart Devonport
Airport 5.30 p.m. by T.A.A. Jetliner,
arriving Melbourne Airport 7 p.m.
ALL INCLUSIVE TOUR COSTS: Melbourne to Melbourne: Mt. Field
National Park (First Class air travel>, £29/12/-; (Tourist Class air travel,
£25/10/-. Cradle Mountain (First Class air travel only), £21/10/-. Bookings through T.A.A. Holiday Travel Service, 250 Collins Street, OR the
Tasmanian Govt. Tourist Bureau, 254 Collins St., or your Travel Agent.
FOR THE LONG WEEK-ENDS IN 1961
ll~iJAA THE FR/lNDlY WAY
W A L k
~------------------------····----------------------·
Page Thirty-four
~ore6t ;J.lerita~~
-Fred Halls.
One of the vital questions which has concerned Victorians over the last
few years has been that of allowing timber milling in water catchment areas.
The Melbourne Bushwalkers were keen to have some informed opinion on the
question and to this end arranged for lectures from representatives of both
the Melbourne and Metropolitan Board of Works and the Forest Commission
of Victoria. The F.C.V. also arranged an excursion and the following is a
summary of information gained from these activities.
The forestry excursion was conducted in the Broadford area and was led
by Mr. John Chinner of the Forestry School, Melbourne University, and F.C.V.
District Officer, Neil Carr. These two highly-trained foresters aimed to prove
to Club members that logging of timber can proceed in mountain catchments
without detriment to the quality of the water produced, and without speeding
the onset of soil erosion. They maintained that Australia has a shortage of
both timber and water, and therefore the utilization of forests for both
purposes is very necessary.
The district visited was in the Hume Ranges where the control in the south
and east is held by the M.M.B.W., who allow no logging, and in the rest by
the F.C.V., where logging has been in progress for 50 years with an additional
water conservation project for the last 18. Mt. Disappointment (2600 ft.), at
the southern end, is the highest point and the area generally is around 2000 ft.,
with an average rainfall of 45 ins. per year. Short steep hills flank the
western approaches from the grazing lands of Wallan, Clonbinane, Kilmore
and Broadford. The range acts as a watershed for Tourorrong Reservoir and
Plenty River in the south, Sunday Creek in the north-west, Strath Creek in the
north, and the King Parrot in the east.
The forests of the M.M.B.W. seem to be mainly of pure mountain ash,
much of it in mature or over-mature condition. In the State Forest at high
levels and in sheltered well-watered situations, there are many stands of
well-grown mountain ash, with messmate (eucalyptus obliqua), peppermint
<e. radiata, e. dives), mountain grey gum <e. goniocalyx) and "cut-tail ash"
<e. fastigaeta> lower down in drier places and on poorer ground. There seemed
to be a difference of opinion about this last-named tree, the District Officer
contended that it was a new species, but Mr. Chinner regarded it as a hybrid
between messmate and mountain ash, caused by the overlapping of their
habitats. It is certainly a noble tree, the bark at the base being like messmate,
changing to peppermint, whilst the topmost trunk and branches display ash
characteristics. Along Cottrell Spur Road we saw fine forests of mountain grey
gum which has vigorously regenerated, and now averages around 50 feet. This
regeneration occurred much earlier than anticipated, and will probably result
in the future forest of this area being predominantly mountain grey gum.
Foresters had hoped for regeneration of messmate, which they consider
superior. Other major flora to be seen includes silver wattle <acacia dealbata),
blackwood (a. melanoxylon), sassafras <therosperma moschatum), and blanketleaf <bedfordia salicina).
In the M.M.B.W. area we were shown a one-age forest of mature mountain
ash 108 years old, which had never been thinned. Most of the trees were 3-4
feet through above the buttresses, and the rate of annual growth had greatly
declined. According to the foresters the best time to cut mill logs is at 80
years, before the annual growth inc1·ement has started to fall. One tree that
had been measured was 215 feet high and this is probably typical of the trees
in the area. We were told that mountain ash stands were probably not climax
forests, and would probably disappear if not thinned, or the dormant seed in
the ground germinated by fire. It was thought that either sassafras or myrtle
beech would dominate the ash and become the climax forest, and as neither of
these is as satisfactory as watershed cover. they should be replaced by young
ash. Along the firebreak there were some giant trees with a girth of about 30
feet above the buttress, a count of annual rings had revealed the age of one
as 347 years. It is thought that most of the trees of this size would be between
300 and 400 years old.
W A L K
Page Thirty.five
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Page Thirty-six
WALK
It occurred to us to wonder if Nature did not provide her own thinning
process. We noticed in some parts of the M.M.B.W. area that the young ash
forest grew very thickly, yet in the mature and over-mature forests only a
fraction of the number of trees grew, therefore it seemed that the weaker
saplings had died to make room for the strong, in effect thinning out the
forest. It was noticeable, before the bad fires in the early 30's, particularly
along the Divide east of Cumberland Valley, and along the spur towards Mt.
Arnold, and along the Acheron Way, that the ash grew to gigantic proportions, in parklike stands, indicating that Nature must have provided her own
thinning process. In many of these parts since the tires dense thickets of
mountain hickory have sprung up.
F.C.V. FIRE TOWER
Mr. Chinner told us of some of the requirements for correct forest management during logging operations. With regard to watercourses, the F.C.V.
insist that no operations take place within one chain of the watercourse, and
that no drag or snig lines cross it. Until recently the Kilmore district allowed
logging in its water catchment area, but on one occasion the water was
severely muddied because of violation of this principle, and although the
F.C.V. revoked the licence of the operator responsible, the public lost confidence in the idea. Mills are to be situated outside the area and logs transported to them under F.C.V. supervision, snig lines and bulldozed tracks along
the contours, not down the slopes, and all forest workers medically examined
to prevent spread of disease.
One of the most common charges made against allowing logging is that
it increases the tire risk. Mr. Chinner spoke of the firebreaks cut and the
network of forest access roads able to provide entry when a fire did break out.
Although he agreed that the risk was greater, he pointed out that should a
fire start in the M.M.B.W. area there was little hope of stopping it and it
could develop into an uncontrollable crown tire, soon engulfing the whole
area. Human agents caused 88% of bushtires, the other 12% being due to
natural causes. We were interested to learn that the "slash" which presents a
fire hazard not present in the uncut areas is found to have completely broken
down and returned to the forest floor in two or three years. We visited an area
adjacent to Morrison's Creek to study some of the tire prevention measures
used there. A firebreak of about a chain width had been burnt on each side
of the road, this continued uphill to protect the valuable timber on the top
of the ridge. Particular stress was laid on protective measures in this area
because the valley tended to channel high winds and rapidly spread fires.
WALK
Page Thirty-seven
We were shown an area where logging was being carried out. The trees
to be cut had been marked by F.C.V. personnel on day wages. One of the
greatest faults of the timber industry is possibly the piecework system on
which they operate. The accent is always on speed, consequently standards
are lowered and the condition of what is left behind is not considered as
seriously as it should be. A daily wage system would possibly develop a
forestry conscience amongst the majority of timber workers. There had been
no tractor snigging here, all hauling having been done by horses; hence
there was a minimum of disturbance to the forest floor and associated shrubs,
and little chance of erosion starting. We were told that any disturbance provided an effective seed bed, but this does not conform with the theory of the
Native Plants Preservation Society, which claims that native plants require
undisturbed soil to propagate and build up beneficial soil bacteria. There is
evidence in plant sanctuaries to prove that soil disturbance allows foreign
weeds to gain a foothold and eventually choke off the native plants. This is
detrimental to the general health of the bushland, as the delicate balance of
nature is gradually destroyed.
The harvesting of the timber takes place over a period of 60 to 80 years.
At 20 years the forest is thinned and the thinning used for poles, at 40 years
mill logs are cut and those not suitable are used for pulp wood cminimum 4
inches diameter), with the final reaping of mature wood at 60 to 80 years, this
to be completed within flve years. In one stand at the 40-year thinning,
14,000 super feet per acre had been harvested, yielding £106 per acre on forest
royalties and a total of £130 including wood pulp, i.e., about £3 per acre per
annum. This, of course, does not include the value of the timber itself or of
the water derived from the area. On Cottrell Spur 50,000 super feet per acre
were harvested for mill logs. Here four seed trees per acre had been left as
an insurance against fire damage. Whereas tt was previously thought that
20 or so years were necessary before trees matured and seeded, it has been
found that for mountain ash it is nine years and for alpine ash only three.
Mr. Lee, Deputy Chief Engineer of the M.M.B.W., used as his chief argument against logging the fact that there would be a reduction in the yield
from the watershed. He said that although the catchment areas controlled by
the M.M.B.W. comprise only 1.4% of Victoria's forests, they produce water for
75% of the State's population.
Tests have shown that 56% of the water falling in these catchments is
recovered, compared with 5% in Western Australia and 15% in South Australia where the areas are far less heavily timbered. The value of the denser
cover is that it allows summer run-off. The majority of the rain falls on the
watershed during the winter months but the moisture is then released very
slowly through the spongy fibrous forest floor and continues to flow during
the summer. About two-thirds of Melbourne's daily water requirements are
supplied from this, and only a third is taken from accumulated stocks. Should
the forest cover be partly denuded there would be faster run-off of surface
water, with a reduction in summer intake, and consequently a reduction in
intake generally. A 10% to 15% drop In yield would mean that the water
supply of t million people would cease, and in view of the increase of the
metropolitan population it would be necessary to construct more water storages years earlier than otherwise.
Tests tend to prove that the quantity of bacteria in water from undisturbed catchments is only one-tenth to one-fifth that obtained from logged
areas, hence less pure water must inevitably result. The cost of water treatment works such as flltration and/or chlorination would probably cancel out
the revenue gained through the timber, the amount obtained would only
supply Victoria's needs for six weeks.
If water catchment areas were preserved in their present condition they
could become a special form of National Park. We may not be able to visit
such areas; the essential fact i& that we will have discharged our obligation
by handing on these watersheds intact for posterity, allowing them to serve
two great purposes at National Parks and as storage for a pure water supply.
We learnt much from these talks and the field trip, and found them most
enjoyable, the trip being especially noteworthy as it was such a lovely day and
our guides were so pleasant and expertly informed.
Paqe Thirty-eight
W A L K
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Available from MYER OUTDORIUM, lonsdale St. Store, HARTLEYS and
all reliable suppliers of camping equipment.
M.Wt
WALK
Paqe Thirty-nine
~he cALpine 'national Cf'ark
John Brownlie.
In July 1953 the Victorian National Parks Association was formed, its
aims being, broadly speaking, to investigate the management, maintenance
and furthering of National Parks throughout Victoria. This work to date has
resulted in appreciable additions to National Park area in Victoria. However,
even then Victoria and Australia as a whole are far behind other countries as
is shown in the following comparison:
Total Area Nat. Parks. Approx.
(sq.m.)
<sq.m.)
%
93,907
12,000
Britain <inc. N. Ireland)
12.7
103,416
5,000
4.7
New Zealand
3,855,000
29,000
Canada <inc. area of lakes)
0.77
3,733,000
19,900
U.S.A.
0.53
2,974.000
7,000
Australia
0.23
<Not very flattering for us, is it?>
Country
For many years now the walking clubs of Victoria have been pressing for
preservation as a National Park, an area which so many of us walk through
on our long vacations. Owing to its special nature the V.N.P.A. allotted the
job of locating, defining and publicising this Alpine park to the Federation
of Victorian Walking Clubs, and for many months a committee has been
working on the project.
Many of us will know the highest parts of this mountainous area which
is now becoming well serviced by roads to well above the tree line. These
roads lead us into the open saucer-like Alpine valleys, carpeted with alpine
plants and dotted with snow gums sheltered by the rocky outcrops.
P•ge Four
WALK
THE CAMP sponsored by the Tasmanian Adult Education Board at Mt.
Field West, and led by Sir Edmund Hillary was so successful <see Rob Taylor's
story), that another is to be held from January 13th to 17th, 1961. The leader
this time will be George Lowe, another well-known member of the successful
1953 Everest expedition.
THE KOSCIUSKO-SNOWY MOUNTAINS AREA soon looks like becoming
well known to the average Victorian tourist. Now that the Hydro-electric
Authority is going ahead 'full bore' with the development of Khancoban as
its administrative headquarters the western side of the range may become
better known than the eastern. The policy of the S.M.H.E.A. is to encourage
tourists to come and see for themselves just what the Authority is doing and it's a mighty job too! With the miles and miles of roads put in to service
the various power stations, dams, etc., at his disposal, the motorist is ultimately
going to be able to enjoy scenery such as has never been accessible before.
They will also open up the valley of the Geehi to walkers, and so present us
with a comparatively unkown area in which to plan new trips - trips fit to
whet the appetite of the most blase veteran walker.
ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RANGE, and independent of the Snowy
Mountains Scheme, a start is scheduled for this year on a 23-mile road linking
Suggan Buggan with Jacob's River and Jindabyne. Apparently it will closely
follow the historic stock route show.n on the N.S.W. Snow-Lease map, and so
complete a story begun more than a century ago. This route was the one
used by the early Monaro stockmen when they first penetrated toward Gippsland with their cattle in the 30's and 40's of last century. Suggan Buggan
and the area around Benambra were penetrated at about the same time as the
Henty's landed to found the first permanent settlement in Victoria, at Portland. However, they were operated as out-stations of the Monaro establishments rather than as permanent holdings. When constructed this road should
give some marvellous views of what was perhaps Australia's grandest stream,
the Snowy River. Let's hope that the calls made on its waters by the hydroelectric scheme will not cause too great a change in its character. In any case
the surroundings are unique; wild brown hills dotted with Murray pines and
dropping steeply into the verdant valleys of the Snowy.
AFTER YEARS OF FEVERISH ACTIVITY the Bogong High Plains are
now reverting to something like their natural peacefulness. The Kiewa hydroelectric scheme has now been rounded-off as finished - although, due to the
impact of the Snowy scheme, not as extensive as originally planned. Doubtless
Nature will not be long repairing the scars, and in a year or two probably
the only outward signs of the intrusion will be the four quietly efficient
power stations, the reservoirs, the mountain roads, the towers of the transmission lines, and the Falls Creek ski village. Reports say that before summer
is with us the only personnel still employed on the project will be those engaged
in maintenance work.
THE SCENT OF BURNING GUM LEAVES and the ftavour of billy tea
could become unknown to the 'outdoors' types' of the future. Many of us
assumed that whatever the picnicker or camper might do about using prepacked fuels, at least walkers would never carry anything they didn't have to.
Alas, post-war disposals caused 'canned heat' to appear among the little tents,
to be followed by the 'jimpy' - the miniature pressure stove burning Shellite.
Then last Xmas we found one of our stalwarts a step further along the same
track when he turned up with a 'bottled gas' outfit. Advantages claimed are
that a leaky container won't cause you to hiccough petroleum after every
meal; lighting-up is easier, and instantaneous. Main disadvantage seems to
be that a leak could go undetected indefinitely. Regarding the all-important
questio':l of weight there seems little to choose at present - Jimpy, full of
fuel we1ghs 20 oz.; gas stove weighs 10 oz. and bottle of gas 10 oz. Burning time
of gas 6-8 hrs .. Jimpy probably about the same.
Page Forty
WALK
WHILE ON THE SUBJECT OF EQUIPMENT we recently were shown
some samples of American sleeping bags (Which incidentally, and despite the
trappings, had nothing new to show us except the doubtful virtue that they
were all filled with artificial fibres such as orion, rather than eider-down).
Amongst them was one which is a best-seller with the Boy Scouts of
America. It was a large, flat bag with 'envelope flap' head, long zipp fastener,
and a waterproof lower outer sheet to remove the need for a groundsheet if you don't roll about too much. But apparently the point which made its
sales appeal was the lining; bright red material printed all over with the Scout
badge, the legend 'Boy Scouts of America,' campfire scenes, etc. Enough to
make you feel like the little girl with the new lace petticoat; want to wear
the inside outside!
TWO NEW MEMBER CLUBS were admitted to the Federation of Victorian Walking Clubs during the past year. They were the Royal Melbourne
Technical College Explorers' Club, and the Campion Tramping Club; the
former naturally composed of Melbourne Tech. students and ex-students, and
the latter a club of Catholic walkers. We extend to them a warm welcome,
both on behalf of our own Club and walkers in general.
The old (or is it really the 'new') FEDERAL TRACK was the venue of the
F.V.W.C. track-clearing effort this year. This track is a disused timber
tramline linking Starlings Gap with the site of the Federal mill in the area
between Warburton and Powelltown, and follows the valley of the Ada river,
The effort resulted in the track being substantially cleared for 2 miles at the
Starlings Gap end, and for 3 miles at the other. The remaining U miles will
be tackled as the next stage. Meanwhile a short distance of the track to
Big Pat's Creek has also been cleared adjacent to Starlings Gap.
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WALK
Page Forty-one
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WALK
~lte eompLete qoaLke~
Sam Larsen.
When reading these pages you may often have wondered just how good
all these fine walkers really are. Well, of course the answer is that most of
them are very nearly perfect; maybe you can recognise them from the following specifications.
Firstly, it is a "sine qua non" that a walker should have the physical
strength and stamina for the particular walk he has chosen, and he should be
so trained that he won't be a burden on his companions. A reliable pair of
feet, sturdy legs and a powerful torso are essential to support him and his
pack.
Secondly, he should be able to appreciate Nature in her widely different
forms: the many varieties of gum trees, tall and straight with their green
leaves that are not shed in Autumn; the sight and scent of the golden wattle
and numerous species of wildflowers in bloom in Spring-time; the joy of
awakening to the clear, shrill notes of the lyre bird, the laughing kookaburra
and the melodious magpie; the thrill of climbing a peak in the crisp,
early morning to see the sunrise; the rugged grandeur and majesty of the
distant mountains; the beauty of the hills in a mantle of snow; the music
of the rippling stream; and the rainbow with its merging of each colour into
another.
The third requirement of our ideal walker is that he is a natural leader:
he has that personal magnetism that inspires people and binds them together;
he is always master of the situation with the calmness of the veteran. He has,
before the walk, studied all maps and learned what he could about the area,
so that no matter what sort of emergency he is faced with, his knowledge and
experience of conditions will enable him to reach a sound decision.
Fourth on the list is that invaluable asset, a sense of direction. The
wise walker, however, knows that his sense of direction is not infallible, so
always has a good compass with him. It is no trouble for him to convert a
magnetic bearing to a true bearing and vice versa when the occasion requires
it to be done. He may, at times, want to make sure that his compass is
working properly, one reason being that he may be in country which has
deposits of iron-stone - causing his compass-needle to deflect. In this event,
he knows of several methods by which approximate directions may be obtained:
for instance, he knows when the sun will be true North - its highest point,
which occurs, on the average, at 12.20 p.m. in Melbourne- and that it changes
direction at about 15 degrees per hour - so that its position may be estimated
for any hour of the day with reasonable accuracy.
The next attribute is that he has the pioneering spirit: the desire to be
the first to climb a peak, to fearlessly blaze the trail through country which
no man has gone before. In short, he has the curiosity to see for himself regardless of personal safety - what is around the corner.
Our walker is, of course, observant. He notes each track and its direction,
each stream he crosses and checks it on his map. He has that uncanny knack
of being able to recognise surrounding peaks, though they have changed slightly
in appearance due to being viewed from a new angle. He takes in the general
pattern of the district; whether it is densely timbered or not, fiat or hilly and
wet or dry. No bird or animal escapes his attenton, and he is at all times
alert to the danger of snakes.
He is skilled in bushcraft: he knows that water is even more necessary
than food, and can find a creek or water-hole in apparently dry country. As
far as food is concerned, he can, in an emergency, live off the land from fruits,
berries. roots. animals, fish. birds. etc. In the coldest and wettest weather
he can always light a fire and so keep warm.
When first-aid needs to be rendered, his training stands him in good
stead, and he is able to give prompt assistance to the victim - no matter
whether he is suffering from a sprained ankle or a broken limb.
W A L K
Page Forty·three
He is always pleasant and cheerful, and has a sense of humour for even
the darkest occasion. He has the personality needed to mix with different
types of walkers and generally put them at their ease. He has a repertoire
of folk songs and bush-ballads which he uses around the camp-fire at night,
and can strum a banjo or play a mouth-organ to entertain his fellow-walkers.
When it comes to selecting the equipment that he has to carry, he sees
that he gets durable, light-weight material that can be put into a small space
in his pack. He carries many items of gear throughout different trips, but is
never without matches, a torch, a watch and a compass. He knows that
if he treats his equipment well it will treat him well in return - in particular
his watch. Accessories often used to advantage are cameras and binoculars,
etc.
Over the years he has built up a knowledge of the foods needed to sustain
him on his journeys. Circumstances demand that they be as nourishing as
possible for their weight and volume; he works on the theory that his pack
will be lighter if he carries dried and dehydrated foods - water being obtained
at the camping site. Our seasoned walker can cook quite a well-balanced and
appetising meal.
Naturally, he chooses his clothing with care, and it sees him through
all vagaries of weather.
Finally, he knows that walking is a natural, healthy exercise, and he finds
contentment in the peaceful. serene world of Nature.
qoltat Cf'rice a qoalker 1
-"Quartermaster"
Walkers are often accused of enjoying the advantages of having a relatively
inexpensive pastime. This is a claim that many walkers themselves would say
was true, at least those who are careful not to mix their walking expenses
with those of some complementary interest such as Photography. Ask any
individual you see bedraped with cameras, tripods, light meters and all the
other thingummies which go to make up the Complete Shutterbug and you'll
hear a tale of woe indeed.
Certainly, when compared with other pastimes (e.g. following slow horses
or pursuing fast women) , walking does seem to exact only a modest toll. An
ex-nightclubber and partygoer friend of ours finally decided that the pace
was getting a little too fast for his hardening and ageing arteries, so he cast
around for a Clean, Healthy Recreation. He took up walking, improving not
only his health, but, also to his surprise, his bank balance which previously
had been sadly depleted by his past excesses. In no time he found himself
respectably married to a very nice girl. Now he is broke and doesn't come
out walking any more. Whether this illustrates the benefits or the risks of
walking is a moot point, but it is a story often told.
New walkers are often puzzled as to where they can buy the right sort
of equipment, especially when they are about to invest a few hard-earned
pounds in such items as tents and sleeping bags. The advertisements in the
pages of this magazine should offer them some clue in this regard. However,
it is best to seek out the opinion of experienced walkers before buying.
Always try to buy the best. The few pounds saved by buying a cheaper
and more likely inferior sleeping bag will hardly compensate for the misery
and the untold hours of lost sleep up on the frosty highlands. In this matter
disposal stores should be regarded with some suspicion. Undoubtedly wonderful
bargains may be had at these places, but there is also a good deal of indifferent
stuff. The inexperienced are likely to purchase a lot of heavy ex-army gear,
and load themselves up with tin dixies, massive webbing, etc., which is contrary
to the idea and art of lightweight camping.
Perhaps the chief danger in visiting disposals is that one is liable to forget
what one entered for, being dazed by the fabulous goods on display. I
remember entering such an establishment with the sole intention of buying
a pair of gaiters. (Disposals seem to be the only places where these items
Page Forty-four
W A L K
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W A L K
Page Forty-five
may be obtained>. I also remember coming out with a radar set under one
arm and a tin of green paint under the other; pockets were empty and the
gaiters quite forgotten. A second trip had to be made for them, but even
then another load of odds and ends was the result.
It is rather difficult to say exactly how much walking costs. Total equipment, from sun hat to corn cure, is never bought all at the one time. Usually
the gear accumulates over the years as new requirements are needed from
time to time or new pieces replace deteriorating items. Recently I cleaned out
the bottom layers of the tin trunk in which I keep my gear. I started off by
unearthing a perished groundsheet and half a tent, these two items being
promptly appropriated by my young nephew, who has just joined the scouts.
<He is not very discriminating yet). Then a young lady friend going overseas
was absolutely delighted when I presented her with a moth-eaten sleeping
bag, and again felt rather virtuous as I placed a number of old socks in the
rag appeal bag. How long those socks had reposed in the bottom of that
trunk, I've no idea.
Now here is a picture of a new walker, in fact, a very beginner, all
ready for his first ten mile day walk. He wears an old sports coat, pair
of baggy trousers, is shod with a pair of stout <we hope) golf shoes, and carries
a plastic raincoat over one arm. Lunch either reposes in a companion's
knapsack or is carried in a string bag- sometimes it is even a Gladstone bag.
Did I say a picture of a beginner? Well there are those who never seem to
graduate beyond this stage.
So far there have been no expenses, except of course, for fares and Devonshire Teas. And we musn't overlook that large strip of Sticking Plaster for
that blister; which brings to mind that one of the first purchases of any sort
of walker must be a first aid kit.
During the next few excursions the tyro soon meets the leader who leads
the way through a patch of blackberry bushes. The plastic raincoat is torn
to ribbons and down comes the rain. Our tyro, feeling rather "wet," realises
the advantages of a tough and commodious cape-groundsheet as he watches
the old hands pull their's out of their rucksacks. He pulls up the collar of his
sportscoat, now heavy and soggy with rain, and shivering, reflects that
experience is a hard schoolmaster. So next time he is in town, that is if his
enthusiasm hasn't been damped too much, he makes the following purchases:An ex-army knapsack, 15/-; a cape groundsheet, 30/-; gaiters, 10/-; billy,
7/-; workmen's boots, 60/-. Already he has spent over £6 for the minimum
amount of equipment essential for comfortable walking. By the time he has
all the refinements of the expert, his special clothes and equipment will probably have cost him £20.
Sooner or later the walker decides on attempting an overnight trip. He
finds that he has most of the gear required except for a tent and sleeping bag.
After buying these he may find to his dismay that his rucksack will not hold
the larger load. A larger framed rucksack must now be purchased, unless he
was wise enough to buy one in the first place. To fully equip a week-end
walker costs up to £50, while the difference to convert from a day walker to
a week-ender would cost from £20 to £30.
If the week-ender loves luxury he'll add an air mattress - £6 to £9, and
if he likes breakfast in bed, a small primus stove, or if he prefers scrubpushing, he'll want a jungle slasher. It is easy to see that a keen type could
own £70 or more worth of equipment.
So far we have been considering "capital" expenses only. Good walking
gear stands up to a lot of hard use and if looked after properly will last a long
time, but operating expenses are always with us. These include maps, club
fees, tucker and fares. The average fare for a day-walk within a 40 mile radius
of Melbourne is about 10/-, while the week-ender with his greater range
averages about 23/- a trip. Thus a once-a-month day walker would spend
about £6 per annum in fares and the week-ender, also out once a month, £14.
Of course, the do-it-yourself and the bargain hunter can tell a lot about
chopping expenses but in another decade the prices of 1959 will look ridiculously quaint, so say those who study the price-inflation spiral, when the basic
wage should be well up around the £20 mark, So let's keep walking while the
going's fine, eh?
Page Forty-si•
WALK
···········--·-··--------··-···-··-----·············
Boots for the Bush !
BUT
I
SHOES
for
FASHION
®nl~ tlf£
"1fiook"
is tJ!xp£nsift£
--------------------------··-----------·-----------WALK
P1ge Forty-seven
~rampin9 o4rouna
<groote €vlanat
Les A. Mabus
Groote Eylandt <Dutch for Great Island) is 117 square miles and situated
at the top of the Gulf of Carpentaria.
Its highest point is 600ft. above sea level, the remainder is mainly sand,
and is covered by low scrub, paper bark and acacias. It is rather an isolated
spot being 300 miles west of Thursday Island, 410 miles east of Darwin and
320 miles north-east of Karumba.
In early 1939 it became one of a chain of bases serving the Short Sunderland flying boats on the Australia-England air-mail route. These bases were:
Rose Bay, Sydney; Gladstone, Brisbane, Townsville, Karumba, Groote Eylandt,
Darwin, thence up through the East Indies and on to Singapore.
The lagoon at Groote was an excellent site, being roughly three miles in
diameter and almost land-locked. The opening to the sea at Port Langdon
was barely a half mile wide. The jetty ran for 1645 feet across the shallow
mud flats before deep water (26 feet) was reached. There were two anchorages
one near the jetty for fair weather and the other two miles across the lagoon
in the shelter of the sand hills. This was used only when the south-east
monsoon made the jetty anchorage untenable.
The base was manned by 15 Civil Aviation staff and three Shell Co.
personnel. Its other inhabitants were the Yetibah tribe of natives, a rather
nomadic tribe; some wild, some Mission trained, and from these simple people
I learned much and made many good friends.
A supply ship called twice a year with supplies <all tinned), but fresh
meat, eggs, butter and vegetables were flown in on each flying boat from
Townsville.
This was to be my home for the next three years, and although we had few
amenities we were a happy crowd.
The lagoon itself was a fisherman's paradise and the freezing chamber was
always well stocked with choice ftsh. The rocks abounded in oysters for the
taking, but alas, it had its dangers in sharks, crocodiles and the deadly stone
fish. Ducks were plentiful and the big blue mud crabs lived a precarious
existence as we went out after them at every low tide.
Many a lovely shell collection had its beginning in this lagoon, and keen
competition existed whenever a native brought in a basket of shells.
And now you have an idea of what the island is like - let's go exploring.
"Jagged Rock" was a tumbled mass of rock at the eastern side of Port
Langdon and was a favorite spot for many interesting walks. Situated some
six miles from the base it was reached by launch. A lovely inlet with crystalclear water and a virgin beach gave access to the clitis. A sharp climb atiorded
pleasant views, but 'ware walking. The terrain was split by deep chasms,
and taking the wrong route led one into a lot of trouble. Caves
abounded and were all explored until the day we found the skeletons. Yes!
We had stumbled on the burial ground of the Yetibah tribe, and from then on
cave exploring was taboo.
North-East Island was also reached by launch and its lovely coral gardens,
rainbow hued ftsh, and white beaches all got a lot of attention. We took a
native with us as guide through the reef, and how interesting he was. He
showed us the right wood to make a ftsh spear from, how to harden it by ftre,
and how to use it. It's a lot more fun than a line. It was on this island
that I actually saw a turtle dig a hole and lay her eggs, 94 of them, the size
of ping-pong balls. The hole is laboriously dug with the rear flippers until
deep enough. Then she rests, and the egg duct protrudes and drops the eggs
at the rate of approximately one per minute.
Page Forty-eight
WALK
The Mission Station was 36 miles away in the south-east corner of the
Island, and old Baldy and I had four days leave due. We decided to visit the
station, and our launch dropped us across the lagoon with our gear. Here we
were joined by some 30 natives, for it was Easter and a big corroboree was
to take place at the Mission.
In single file we followed the native pad, for the spear grass grew high,
and the seed heads had a horrible knack of screwing through what little
clothing we wore and causing quite an irritation. We learned how to find
yams, how to tell the edible berries from those which were poisonous, and to
read the animal signs. Over dry creek beds and sandy plain we travelled until
we reached the Anooroocoo.
Here the natives ran ahead of us and in they went shouting, screaming
and beating the water. Old Baldy and I finally made it, and imagine our
horror on climbing out on the far bank to find large crocodile tracks in the
sand. As the croc's hadn't eaten us, we decided to call a halt for lunch.
NORTHERN TERRITORY ABORIGINAL
It was then that we heard a noise like a traction engine with whooping
cough coming through the scrub accompanied by wild yells and shrieks.
Around a bend came a vintage T model Ford, with natives hanging on all over
it. Ahead and behind raced the rest of them, and the half-caste driver did
a marvellous job not to run over those in front, or pile up those behind. Henry
Ford would have been proud of that old "Lizzie."
We climbed aboard trying not to look nervous. but definitely trying to
remember a praye1· or two. An angel must have watched over us, for we did
arrive safely at the Mission, and were welcomed by the Reverend Harris and
his staff, who had been advised by radio of our trip.
W A L K
Page Forty-nine
Our proposed park includes the Mt. Feathertop area, adjoining the Mt.
Hotham reserve which is under consideration of the Government at presentthe boundaries then extend north and include Mt. Lock, Mt. Jim, the Bogong
High Plains, Mt. Fainter, and Mt. Bogong at 6515 ft. From Mt. Hotham they
go south near the Dargo road, across Mt. Hump, Mt. Skene, Stirling, Cobbler,
Mt. Selwyn and join with a narrow neck to the northern boundary near
Mt. St. Bernard.
This excludes all privately owned land in the area, and Mt. Buller, which
is well managed as a popular resort. It amounts to some 2000 square miles
of country serviced by good roads on its borders - the Mt. Feathertop area by
the Omeo Highway, the northern end at Mt. Bogong by the State Electricity
Commission road to Rocky Valley. The southern end is lacking somewhat but
the Licola road is now being extended and other roads will probably follow,
gradually giving access to the car owner.
THE RAZOR,
THE VIKING
AND
TERRIBLE HOLLOW
-L. Barr
Mt. Bogong, the highest peak in Victoria rises abruptly from the Kiewa
valley with its thick undergrowth of Eucalyptus forests. At greater heights
these give way to more stunted alpine trees and grasses scattered with a host
of alpine flowers. The Mt. Beauty road to Rocky Valley dam, which can be
used with permission, is owned and maintained by the S .E.C.
Mt. Bogong and the adjacent High Plains were first known by the cattlemen of Cobungra. who first journeyed up to them about 1852. Then came the
famous Baron von Mueller, who explored the Feathertop area, and as in all his
similar wanderings throughout Australia, collected and named the alpine flora.
Later came the walker and an occasional skier. and the area was left to them,
and to the cattlemen who took their cattle to the alpine meadows for summer
WALK
After making us welcome and comfortable we were shown over the
station. What a lovely place it was. Bananas, paw paws and pineapples were
bearing well. Watered by the crystal-clear waters of the Emerald River the
vegetable gardens were tended by the natives.
The chapel was beautifully decorated with shrubs and water lilies which
the lubras had gathered and all was in readiness for their Good Friday service.
After dinner we sat out under the moon to watch the corroboree. The
wailing of the didgery-doo and the dancing of the natives to the chanting of
the lubras, lit by the full moon and the flickering light of the fires, was a
wonderful sight.
It was late when we decided to hit the cots for it was getting cold and
a dirty scud had started to race across the moon. Baldy and I were tired out
and were soon asleep.
Why God chose that night to wreck such a lovely spot, only He will ever
know, for a cyclone struck at 4 a.m. with the roar of an express train. In
seconds we were dressed, and out on the verandah of the Mission with the
staff.
The Chapel was the first to go, and its iron roof rolled up like a sheet of
brown paper, and disappeared in the trees. The walls went a few minutes after
and from then on the destruction continued as building after building was
flattened in the 75 m.p.h. wind which shrieked and howled around us. The
rain was terrific and stung like hail as we raced around the area, freeing
trapped natives, rescuing children, and mustering womenfolk at the Mission
House which had lost half its roof.
Baldy got a fire going somehow, and kept us supplied with a steaming
brew, until he couldn't find a dry stick anywhere. The pedal wireless was
soaked and out of action so we couldn't call the Base for help, and the
Emerald was rising at an alarming rate.
Towards noon the storm passed and we were able to take stock of the
situation. "Desolation," was the summing-up, and the Reverend Harris called
all hands to prayer to thank God for our deliverance. The only casualties
were a few cuts and bruises, and one broken arm.
We worked for four days to help restore some semblance of order and then
we had to start back.
At dawn we crossed the Emerald by boat and, accompanied by our natives,
started the thirty-six heart-breaking miles back to Base. The soil in this
area was loose and, with the terrific rain on it we sank above our ankles at
each step. The spear grass and scrub was flattened and helped to impede our
progress.
That night we camped under a rock overhang and the natives got a rather
fitful fire going but never did a meal taste so good. We all huddled together
for warmth, and before dawn started off again.
By midday the going became better, for we were out on the sandy plains
again and the water had got away. Creeks were still running strongly but we
crossed them safely, thanks to the natives.
On the second night out we shared the last of the tinned food supplied by
the Mission, and ate wallaby meat brought in by our faithful entourage.
After the meal we pushed on again, and about 10 p.m. came out onto the
lagoon beach, and could see the lights of our Base three miles across the
lagoon.
We dropped into an exhausted sleep on the sand and slept solidly until
daylight. OUr signal fires were spotted by natives at the Base, and quickly
brought a launch to our rescue, and us to a very relieved C.O.
And now Groote Eylandt is many years behind me, but often on a moonlight night I think of the mournful howl of the dingo, the plaintive call of
the curlew, and the wail of the didgery-doo, for I was initiated as a blood
brother of the Yetibah tribe, and Groote Eylandt is part of my destiny.
Pa9e Fifty
WALK
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Page Fifty·one
FOR FOUR OR FIVE DAYS
BEVERIDGE FLATS-MT. SELWYN-MT. MURRAY-MT. ST. BERNARD
Distance: ZB miles.
TRANSPORT: Private transport to Beveridge Flats via Porepunkah and Buckland Bridge. Return from Mt. St. Bernard at junction of Dargo Road
and Alpine Highway.
SUITABLE SEASON: The best season should be Spring, which at this altitude
can be as late as January. Avoid when snow or fog covers the tops, as
there are many places on the range where poor visibility can cause mistakes. However, in good weather little diftlculty should be encountered by
an experienced party.
AVAILABILITY OF WATER: This range has the reputation of being the
"Dry Barries." However, it is well to remember that known water exists
at points approximately a day's walk apart. These are:
At Selwyn Creek before leaving the valley;
6~
miles from Beveridge Flats where the forest access road crosses one
of the Selwyn Creek heads;
10~
miles from Beveridge Flats, close to the saddle between Selwyn
north and south peaks;
4t miles east of Selwyn north peak- this is in a soak <one of the
Wongungarra heads> and rather "cowy";
On the south side of Mt. Murray;
8!1 miles from Selwyn north peak, ! mile below Murray Hut;
6 miles from Murray Hut near the Twins (site of F.C.V. road construction camp, Easter 1960) ;
Near the Dargo-Alpine Road junction.
This is one of the most worthwhile walking tours in Victoria and suitable
for an early Easter. The highlights of the trip are the fine forests, and grand
views to all points of the compass from the sharp ridges. In certain weather
conditions this trip can also provide the spice of adventure.
Take the transport 25 miles beyond Porepunkah to a F.C.V. hut at a road
junction, a short distance before Selwyn Creek and Beveridge Flats. From
here take the forest access road which leads to the right. A short distance
along it the Selwyn track can be seen leaving on the left. This track then
crosses the main creek six times before becoming somewhat obscure as it
climbs a steep spur to the east of Selwyn. An easier approach can be made by
following the track for 2 miles through pleasant forest country before rejoining the forest access road which then climbs the southern slopes of the Selwyn
Creek valley to a F.C.V. camp in the saddle of the Buckland-Buffalo divide.
This is N.W. of Selwyn north peak and 81. miles from Beveridge Flats. The
road traverses good timber country, and at higher levels there is evidence of
considerable milling activity, particularly in the Woollybutt forests of the
Buffalo range.
Pa9e Fifty-two
WALK
Leave the road at the camp and follow a snig track S.E. to the top of
the range <Buckland-Buffalo divide), from here take a track E.S.E. along a
broad ridge into a saddle just below Selwyn's north peak. Continue along this
track and after a climb of a few hundred feet the snow gums and the exposed
north peak of Selwyn are reached OOl miles).
There is a good view all around from the north peak, and the following
are the magnetic bearings to various key points: Feathertop 42 deg., The
Twins 70 deg., Mt. Murray 96 deg., Snowy Bluff 163 deg., Selwyn South Peak
180 deg., Crosscut Saw 232 deg., Speculation 238 deg., Cobbler 260 deg., South
Peak Buckland-Buffalo divide 290 deg., Buffalo Horn 329 deg.
HEAD OF SELWYN CREEK
The next stage east from Selwyn is along a narrow well-defined rocky
ridge, but care must be taken to avoid a well-defined track on a spur E.N.E.N.E. <U miles from Selwyn). The Barry ridge here turns right (E.S.E.)
through bracken. Continue along the track on the ridge, but at 3~ miles avoid
a plain cattle pad to the right into the Wongungarra watershed. Now the
track generally follows the ridge but shortly after the knob <4800 ft.) before
Deep Saddle it is joined and replaced by a jeep track which comes from the
Buckland Valley on the left. This runs E., S.E. through wattles, then E. again
into Deep Saddle (6 miles from Selwyn), up the long pull out of the Saddle,
then N.E. on to the main ridge. From here there are extensive views across the
beautiful Buckland, past the mile-long flats at Beveridge, nestling in the valley
far below, to Buffalo with its Hump and Horn. To the south, in the Wongungarra, lovely stands of park-like alpine ash <woollybutt) clothe the steep slopes.
At 8 miles the jeep track to Mt. Murray leaves on the right <S.) and in
approximately the next saddle watch out for logs piled high to form a dog-leg
fence. Just past this fence to the right is a tree with the trunk marked "W"
WALK
Page Fifty-thru
on one side and "H" on the other. 400 yards down the track from here is
Murray Hut. In a further ~ mile a gully on the right brings in good water from
the slopes of Mt. Murray <8i miles) . The best and most sheltered camp sites
are on the saddle in the lee of the fence. Walking time from Selwyn is
approximately 6! hours, including lunch and rests-allow two hours extra for
the return trip to Mt. Murray <5000 ft.) .
The next stage east along the ridge is gradually upward, falling only into
shallow saddles until the track ascends to a grassy knoll at 5100 ft. <H miles
from Murray Hut). Just before this point avoid the track to the right <S.l
and continue along the main ridge slightly north of east. This is a beautiful
BARRY RANGE, EAST OF MT. SELWYN
part of the trip. Over the grassy knoll the snow gums are particularly attractive-colourful, gnarled and healthy; the whole atmosphere is parklike, with
short green grass and patches of bright emerald moss. Near the end of this
knoll remain on the crest, avoiding both the plain cattle pad dropping down
on the right CS.l side of the ridge, and that which follows a steep spur <leftl
and turns N. and N.W. After the rocky knobs <5100 ft.) the ridge runs N.E .
and at about 3 miles past Murray Hut avoid the spur track N.E. down into the
Buckland Valley. On the climb up from the saddle at 4800 ft. take the track
which diverges 15 deg. to the left <N.) and sidles the N. side of the ridge to a
saddle <4200 ft.) at the western foot of The Twins. Avoid the track along the
crest of the range which turns S.E. then S. down a steep spur into the
Wongungarra country.
The faint track to the top of The Twins <5800 ft.) continues straight
ahead from the 4200 ft. saddle, just to the right <SJ of the narrow, rocky
ridge. The other track ewell-defined with small new blazes on some treesl
turns left from the saddle and sidles the northern spurs of The Twins. This is
a narrow, well-cut and graded track which runs N. and N.W. for a considerWALK
able distance, then turns sharply E. Look out for a newly-formed 4-wheeldrive road below to the left, and after dropping on to this, turn right and
follow it for 6/i miles to a 4300 ft. saddle east of The Twins. <At the 6-mile
point-Easter 1960-there was a F .C.V. road construction camp, close to the
water mentioned earlier.) From the saddle the road turns left <N.E.) on the
ftnal ascent to Mt. St. Bernard <5080 ft.) and the Dargo-Alpine Road junction.
Look for a rough stockyard on the right at about 1 mile; then the Dargo road
can be seen below on the other side (E.) of the valley <Wongungarra head).
Near the road junction a short diversion to the left leads to the top of St.
Bernard, and a few hundred yards further N.E. the end of the journey is
reached (8 miles from Murray Hut) .
MAP REFERENCE: Melbourne Bushwalkers-"The Eastern
Mountains and Approaches," also Lands Dept.
"Howitt"
NOTES COMPILED : April, 1960
-F.W.H.
Slip a Cherry Ripe into your pack
for a quick, nourishing snack
Enjoy Cherry Ripe anytime, milky
coconut and real, ripe cherries.
Here's a delicious combination milky coconut and real, ripe
cherries. What's more, it's
coated with smooth "Old
Gold" chocolate. A
handy size bar, enjoy
Cherry Ripe today.
~
The Great Name in Confectionery
WALK
Pac;~e Fifty·five
FOR THAT LONG WEEK-END
TARADALE-GLENLUCE SPRINGS-LODDON FALLS-GLEN LYONLYONVILLE
Distance: 12 miles.
TRANSPORT: Train to Taradale, return from Lyonville. Left Spencer Street
Station 7.50 a.m. Saturday morning. Fare 29/-.
DESCRIPTION OF ROUTE:
First Day: On leaving Taradale railway station follow road opposite
station gate W. for ~ mile to road junction. Turn left <S.), following road
downhill for !- mile to take first road on right to meet highway in another !
mile. Cross highway to general store, then walk S. along highway for
100 yards to turn abruptly right <W.> into a road, with churches on either
side.
On the outskirts of the town this road swings left (S.W.) with a gullied
creek on the right sand side. ~ mile along this road a farm is seen close by the
road where it crosses an aqueduct and enters timber. <It may be a good
idea to pick up water for lunch here as the country is dry from this point
to the Loddon).
Just over the aqueduct bridge is a signpost standing at the junction of
three forestry roads. Take the centre <Fryers) road which runs in a westerly
direction and on the left side of a gully. In !I mile a side road is seen coming
in from the right (N .) crossing the gully on a small bridge. Ignore this road
but continue on for 1 mile to where the road branches. The right branch
goes down to the gully, and the left swings to the S.W. Take the left branch
which soon swings to the S. and then W., finally climbing up to a low N.W.
ridge. This ridge road is followed for a short distance, turning to the N.W. down
to a shallow depression then up to a well-formed forestry road. A higher
ridge can be seen to the west of this road. Leave the road, and climb to
the top of this ridge, skirting a gully on the right and gradually changing
course to a N.W. direction, soon meeting another gravelled forestry road.
Looking N., parts of this road can be seen among the timber further along the
ridge. However, turn left (8.) along the road, climbing, and then passing a
side road entering from a wide northern valley. In another ! mile pass
another road coming in from the left and in a short distance come to a
forestry tower which commands a widespread view of the area. This is a
good site for lunch.
(Vacant hut in good condition provides shelter in inclement weather.
Water in tanks. Might make good site for overnight camp, e.g. Castlemaine
to Kyneton?
From the tower follow the ridge road N.W. for a short distance to where
the tower telephone line leaves the ridge. Follow the line down a rocky spur
with a deep, timbered gully on the left. In a few hundred yards leave the
telephone line, which continues in a N.W. direction and descend the gully
through open timber to pick up old wheel tracks which intersect a forestry
road in ! mile. Cross the forestry road and follow the creek bed for a few
hundred yards to meet another road on the left <E.) bank. Follow this road
for about 1 mile to where it is seen to climb the valley sides further on the
left. However, keep to the valley following old wheel tracks, which soon merge
to become a single file pad crossing and recrossing the stream and passing
past evidences of the mining days. Within 2 miles the creek swings to the
north and enters cleared land - the site of many stone ruins. Another creek
coming in from the south joins it here. Keep following the valley downstream (N) for 1 mile to cultivated paddocks. On the left (S.) bank of
stream go through gate and follow a track leading through low scrub to a
grassy lane with a farm house on the right. At the end of the lane a white
Paqe Fifty-six
WALK
bridge crosses the stream, with a road junction nearby. Join the road at the
bridge and take the right hand road, which in a few yards past the bridge,
passes by the cellar of the site of an hotel on the left side of the road. The
road gradually climbs, past a few farm houses (Irish town), and in ~ mile
past bridge come to another junction with a road coming down from a ridge
on the right. Keep to the right branch, descending into the Loddon valley
and meeting the Vaughan road on the right, in l- mile. Take the left hand
road continuing S., then S.S.E. for another 1 mile, looking out for a signpost on the right denoting the track down to the Glenluce Springs on the
Loddon River-the camp site for the night. <10 miles for the day).
Second Day: Next morning cross the river and follow it upstream along
a grassy bank and then along the remains of an old aqueduct. In about t
mile from the camp site the river can be seen making a sharp meander to the
w. This can be short cut by crossing to the other bank and climbing up
to a saddle marked by a large rock cavern. Cross the saddle and descend to
a grassy flat, keeping to it until a spur can be seen rising from the flats on
the opposite <W.l bank. Cross the river here, climbing the spur up to a ridge
which is followed for a short distance before descending to a low saddle.
Going S.E. traverse the saddle to climb a high knob on the further side and
which affords a good glimpse of the countryside, including poplars near
Vaughan. Keep S. along the ridge which soon ends overlooking a small gully
with a track running E/W along it. Cross track and climb a little up the
gully to pass through fence on far side. Keep climbing out of gully to the
crest which opens on to grassy spur overlooking a cleared valley. Sidle and
descend the grassy spur to the creek bed, gullying in places, to the centre
of the valley where a western branch of the cleared land adjoins it. Follow
WALK
Page Fiflr·seven
the creek bed to the southern boundary of the clearing and enter timber.
This valley gradually rises up to a low saddle which overlooks a timbered
depression. From the saddle wheel tracks lead down to a creek. Follow the
tracks downstream for a short distance, then climb the right bank, to pick
up more wheel tracks which lead in a southerly direction to N/S ridge.
Traverse this ridge for 1 mile to cross a low saddle and on to a higher ridge,
which is studded with white quartz. This ridge swings to the S.W. then ends
at a low saddle joining a shorter ridge leading up to a rounded prominence
affording a fine view of the Loddon Valley. At the foot of this hill, to the
E. the Glen luce-Drummond road can be seen disappearing into a cutting,
and there are further glimpses of this road to the south in forested country.
Go down to the road, turn right (S), and in ~mile cross Middleton's Creek at
bridge. Nearby are the ruins of "Brown Jug" Inn, marked by lines of poplars.
To avoid roadbash, leave the road opposite the ruins and climb cleared land
between the road and Middleton's Creek. An old track then leads through
timber and parallels the main road south for about 1 mile. This old
track continues to the Porcupine Ridge Road which runs E/W. South of
this road is a high hill which gives a view of the country towards the east.
An old mine shaft is at the summit. Return to the main road which is only
a few yards to the left and continue along it, swinging to the E., then N.,
and then S., to where it crosses the Loddon. This is a good lunch site and
there is a stone fireplace handy.
After lunch continue along road (E.) for ~ mile, then turn into a minor
road coming in from the right <S.). In a few yards the track branches, the
left branch climbing steeply, the right branch taking an easier grade. Take
the right branch which in 1 mile leads out to the margin of cleared land,
with farm buildings to be seen ahead on the right. Nearing the farm, the
track turns right, passes the buildings, then turns abruptly left down to a
gully. The track heads the gully, mounts a spur, then descends to ford the
river recrossing it a short distance further on. A track on the left <E.) bank
saves any need to ford the river if it is high. Just past the second crossing,
tht track climbs steeply up to open grassy country and passes a farm house
in 1 mile. ! mile past the farm house watch for a track going into timber on
the right. Follow this track which in a few yards emerges into open country,
keeping west of a cross country telephone line. In ~ mile a farm is seen ahead.
Turn right in a S.W. course, making for a low rise crowned with a large stone.
From this cairn-like stone keep a S.W. course and cross two steep gullies,
working around the further bank of the last, to enter the Loddon valley
tract. Drop to the river flats, which are timbered and well sheltered, to find
a good camp, site. (14 miles for day).
Third Day: On breaking camp follow left <E.) bank upstream for ~ mile
to where river branches. Cross and follow left branch for ~ mile to Loddon
Falls. Above the falls is an old mine. From the mine follow a shallow creek
bed for 1 mile to an E/W road. Turn left (E.) along this road which leads to
Glenlyon in ~ mile. The main Malmsbury-Daylesford road runs through the
town. Follow this bitumen road S. to where it turns right <W.) (The Military
Survey Map shows this road incorrectly turning past the road with the school.)
Turn left (E.) away from main road, and in ~ mile pass dam and cross Loddon
on bridge. (The flats between the dam and the river also make another good
campsite.)
A short distance past the bridge meet a N/S road. Turn right past cottage
with pine plantation at rear. Road turns right but keep straight ahead following a series of old wheel tracks in a northerly direction. In about 1 mile swing
to the S.W. to reach a track leading down to a fiat wooden bridge spanning
the river. Do not cross bridge but follow tracks upstream, passing through
open grassy flats. ! mile past the last open fiat the river valley narrows and
best progress is made by keeping a little way up the valley slopes. A few
hundred yards of this narrow track leads to an E/W road which crosses the
stream on another wooden bridge.
WALK
Cross bridge, leave road on left (S.) side, enter paddock and cross diagonally up hill to house. On far side of house pick up wheel tracks which enter
timber at S.W. corner of paddock. A short distance in the timber the tracks
branch into three. Take the centre track which climbs to W. then S. up to
the main ridge, where the road is well-defined for the first two miles, but then
splits up into a number of timber tracks. However, by maintaining a course E.
of S. a well-graded forestry road running N/W-S/E should be met about 4
miles from the house. On meeting the road turn left and follow it (E.) to where
it bridges the river. There is a fireplace at hand making the spot a good
lunch site.
Cross the bridge and turn right <S.) along a road which runs above the
lower slopes of the valley. In ! mile the Lyonville mineral springs are reached,
being situated in a concrete well on the right of the road. Follow the road
past the springs, skirting the eastern flanks of Babbington's Hill. In 2 miles
the road turns abruptly left, then crosses open country to reach Lyonville
Station in ! mile. (Distance for day: 12 miles.)
MAP REERENCE: Castlemaine and Daylesford Military
Maps, I" to I mile
NOTES COMPILED: April, 1960
-A.S.
<Further details of this area are contained in the article, "We Followed the
Prospectors," WALK No. 8, 1957, pp. 21-24)
~app\1 'Valle\1 come6 to ~iie
Norm. Richards.
Happy Valley is a remote selection on the Wonangatta River, and was for
many years the solitary home of Harry Smith who lived in a log cabin there
until his death at an advanced age about 14 years ago. The Eaglevale station,
of which it was a part, was first selected nearly one hundred years ago, but
since Harry's death the remote homestead in the shadow of Mt. Kent's winter
snows has been for the most part uninhabited. A few years ago Messrs. Bruce
Dungey and Keith Scott of Dargo began working it on a part-time basis, and
Bruce has since been building it up with a view to living there permanently.
He has now actually become one of the elite few to reverse the twentieth
century trend from the country to the city. Last February my daughter and
I had the privilege of being guests at his marriage to Miss Frances Traill,
and now he and his bride have gone to live at Happy Valley. They used
Harry's old home for a while but now have completed a brand new house
half a mile away. Even so they can still claim to be a real pioneering couple.
Their nearest neighbor is ten miles away. During the summer months they
travel along the river by four-wheel drive 'blitz buggy'; but in winter the river
rises and the only access is by horseback along a track which follows the ridge.
The road is slowly advancing towards them; but it is still some miles and
probably a number of years away. Our admiration and best wishes go to Mr.
and Mrs. Bruce Dungey in their venture; we envy them the peace and serenity
of their valley.
W A L IC
Pa9e Fifty-nine
grazing, until the S.E.C. became interested in the area about 1925. Their
interest, of course, stemmed from its hydro-electric potential, a comparatively
heavy precipitation area being located at a high elevation. Their efforts have
meant the spending of £40 million in developing the area.
However, not just the Bogong High Plains, but the whole area proposed
as a National Park is most important as a water catchment. The S.E.C. scheme
is located on the headwaters of the Kiewa River; but also draining the
northern and western slopes of the area are such large streams as the Mitta
Mitta, Ovens, Buffalo, Howqua and Jamieson, to name only the better-known
ones. They all drain into Australia's largest river system, the Murray, and are
the source of much of the water that river provides for the people who live
along its thousand miles of waterway. On the southern slopes of the area the
MacAllister, Avon and Mitchell ftow faster and much shorter courses into Bass
Strait. The Latrobe river is also dependent on the area for part of its water,
and on it depends the prosperity of the Latrobe Valley with its enormous
benefit to Victoria as a whole. The future of Gippsland is dependent on all
these streams, their headwaters must be preserved and unspoiled.
The bushwalker, when crossing this high country, is probably more
interested in what he sees than in its usefulness. Wildflowers abound with
such names as Silver Daisy, Alpine Billy Button, Mountain Beauty and
Leather Star Bush. Even though many of us never get as far as knowing their
scientific names, we can always admire them and appreciate their beauty.
There are also many birds, small ones such as the pipit, red wattle bird,
white eared honey eater, willy-wagtail and sundry different robins and wrens.
There is also our old friend, the emu, not common, but seen right across the
high country from Bogong to Mt. Wellington.
Historically the country occupies an interesting place in the development
of Victoria. After the cattlemen first opened up the country, as mentioned
earlier, there came the prospectors seeking for gold, then the gold rushes
which brought the small townships, and the tracks linking them; the Moroka
Track, Grant, Talbotville, Sunnyside - most of the tracks now lost or halfovergrown, the townships long disappeared or at least now showing the
merest signs of their having once existed. These old towns, founded in the
sixties of last century were on the fringes of the area now proposed as an
Alpine National Park. Perhaps history is no great concern of our high-speed
existence of the 1960's; but even the holiday-maker, tourist of the future will
thank us for the preservation of such as remains.
Of course, it's hardly fair to say nothing about the area as a potential
skiing resort. In this area of 2000 square miles is found the pick of Victoria's
snow country. Mt. Buller just outside the proposed park's western boundary,
is already probably reaching saturation point; but inside there is scope for all
the skiing facilities future generations of Victorians may require. The coming
of ski-lifts has catered for the fast downhill runs that most skiers prefer;
and there are plenty of places where these can be provided. There are also
the extensive high snowfields for those who prefer extended ski-touring.
The access roads are steadily pushing into this area, and it will not be long
before penetration is easy. To the people of the Latrobe Valley living in Moe,
Warragul, Traralgon and the rest, Mt. Wellington will become their
recreational target. Albury, Wangaratta and the towns of the north-east will
look to Bogong and the High Plains, while Melbournites will be able to settle
for Buller, and thence maybe the Howitt Plains. Summer or winter, there is
always something to attract. Here is an area that all can enjoy; the walker,
the skier, the day tripper, probably in the not distant future even the caravanner. There is an urgent need in our community for such a park. It is
there now for the proclaiming. Let us hope that its promise will soon be
fulfilled - and not blighted by haphazard and destructive "development."
WALK
··-···--------------------------------------------- .
JOHN DONNE & SON
I
I
I
I
CHART HOUSE
372 POST OFFICE PLACE, MELBOURNE
FOR
MAPS, COMPASSES AND BOOKS
FOR THE WALKER
I
* *
Included in our Range are:
•
e
"Army Survey Maps," price 5/-, plus postage, 6d.
"Army Manual of Map Reading," 14/-, plus postage, 1/3.
•
"Six Lectures on Map Reading and Field Sketching," 3/4,
plus postage, 9d.
•
"The Magnetic Compass and How to Use It," 4/2, plus
postage, 9d.
~--------------------------------------------------·
Are YOU interested in
BUSHWALKING?
Short easy walks-Social OutingsWeek-end walksInstructional Week-endsExtended tour walking .. .
PLUS a busy Social Program .. .
Then write for details to the Hon. Secretary, at our Clubroom, Room 110, Railways Building, Flinders Street,
Melbourne, or CALL AND SEE US any Friday (8 to 11.30
p.m.)
*
THE MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS
VISITORS are always WELCOME on our WALKS
Subs., 30/- p.a. (Seniors); 15/- p.a. (Under 20)
Married Couples, 40/- p.a.
Pa9e Sixty
WALK
A WEEK-END WALK
LEDERDERG FORD -
BEARS HEAD RANGE -
LONG POINT -
FORD.
Distance: 15 miles.
TRANSPORT: Must be arranged privately. Nearest rail station is Bacchus
Marsh.
FIRST DAY: Take transport to the Lederderg ford. Pick up irrigation
channel just by shack near car park and follow it for a few yards west until
it crosses a gully. Head up this gully and then climb out. This will bring
you on to a moderately-graded spur running North west. Follow this ridge
for about one mile till you emerge from the timber into cleared land at
the head of a gully <at approx. 476612). Turn N.E. around the northern side
IN THE LEDERDERG GORGE
of the gully. In another ! mile another gully will be seen. Pass the dam
in the gully still keeping N.E. A ruined house will be seen about .t mile to E.
Turn North at the house, following a ridge to its head for .t mile, and then
East for a few hundred yards. A rough road running N/S will be reached at
486616 near a farm house. Follow this track North for about a mile when
a non-perennial creek crossing will be reached. This makes a delightful spot
for lunch. After lunch continue along this pleasant track for several miles
to its end as shown on the map. However, it has been continued by the
Forests Commission and will now be seen to swing to the N.W. and climb
rather steeply along a spur to a 1900' hill at 475666: A signpost will be
seen here which leads "West No. 3." A good view of the Lederderg Valley is
to be had from a few yards along this track. Continue along the "main"
road for a few yards to the second signpost which reads "West No. 2."
Follow this for about a mile to the west till its end is reached adjacent to
"Wattles Gully, The Old River" at 461672. Leave the track, turn South down
a steep spur to the Old River, hence to the Lederderg River. Cross the
Lederderg a few yards downstream from its confluence with the Old River
and a good, sheltered, grassy, fairly level camp site will be reached at the foot
of a long spur running down from the Bears Head Range.
WALK
Page Sixty·one
SECOND DAY: Depending on the level of the river, two alternatives are
available for the second day. If the level is down, the gorge can be followed
back to the ford. However if the level is up the following route is better:
Climb up Beads Head Range, which is not dimcult if taken easily, then follow
the spur which runs up from the camp site. <There is a good goat track along
the crest of this range). After reaching the highest point of the Beads Head,
where a good view of the gorge is afforded at 430650, navigation becomes
dimcult, but if the compass is closely followed and the eyes kept open, it
should be possible to keep on course. Turn East from the Bear's Head and
follow the ridges to Long Point where a very pleasant lunch spot (dry) will
be found near letter "L." After lunch continue along the ridges for several
miles till the ford can be overlooked. Pick up spur which runs down to house
near ford and cross river at ford.
MAP REFERENCE: Balian Military Map, I" to I mile
NOTES COMPILED: Auqust, 1960.
-P.I.
BRUCE'S CK.-MORRISON'S CK.-COTTRELL SPUR-WESTCOTT CK.
Distance: 12 miles.
TRANSPORT: Will need arranging privately.
DESCRIPTION OF ROUTE: This walk is through some fine timber country,
mostly with mountain ash, messmate and mountain grey gum.
Leave van at the junction of Bruce's Creek Road and Mountain Road,
one-quarter mile east of Kilmore Reservoir. Follow Bruce's Creek Road for
about 1/3 of a mile then turn left on to an earth road, leading up hill
through pleasant timbered country. Follow this road till it meets with the
Mount Disappointment Road. Turn left along this road and follow for a
! mile to the junction with Mountain Road which is followed for another 200300 yards. Turn right here on to a bush road which is followed for !l mile
to another road junction. Take left road at the junction and in a further
H miles Mountain Road is reached. Turn to the right and a t mile after
crossing Hazel Creek turn right (uphill) on to a timber track heading
towards the Dry Hills. H miles further on and just below the dry Hills
turn left and after a further U miles a lunch spot is reached on one of the
reaches of Sunday Creek. After lunch head for Cottrell Spur Road. Turn left
and continue on this road to ! mile past the Comet Link Road. Head north
for ! mile to where an obscure track is followed across to the Comet Link
Road. About ! mile along this road turn left and in a further !l miles reach
the mountain Road at Westcott Creek.
Turn left, and in a short distance turn right to follow the Westcott Creek
road to the finishing point at the junction of this road and Escreet's Road.
MAP REFERENCE: Mt. Disappointment Forest Map
NOTES COMPILED: July, 1960
-F.W.H.
Paqe Sixty-two
WALK
YARRA GLEN-ONE TREE HILL-YARRA RIDGE-YARRA GLEN
Distance: 12 miles.
TRANSPORT: Return rail to Yarra Glen.
DESCRIPTION OF ROUTE:
On leaving Yarra Glen Station, climb bank and turn left <W> into
unformed road. In !- mile, turn sharp right and in a short distance meet
road going N.W. towards hills. Take this road and in 't mile cross bridge
over aqueduct. On the far side the track branches. Take the left hand branch
which is little more than eroded wheel tracks, climbing steeply to the south.
l- mile past the aqueduct there is a good view of the Yarra Valley. From here
the track swings westerly through scrubby timber and along a spur, rising
steeply up to a gravelled road at Big Hill.
Turn S. along this ridge road, and in ?. mile pass a branch road coming
up from the left. A large waterhole can be seen a short distance down a
gully between the two roads. In 2 miles cross a road junction with a church
and farm buildings in vicinity. Continue N.W., along road, dropping down in
1 mile to Watson's Creek, a suitable place for lunch.
Cross creek and climb the far bank to emerge on to a cleared ridge. Go N.
to descend to the Junction of two gullies. Follow the northern gully, swinging
to the right, up to a saddle leading to hill crowned with scattered timber.
Continue N. through a clearing to thicker timber. Enter the timber and
pick up wheeltracks, following them to the east, soon meeting a track which
ascends from a farm clearing further to the east. Turn left (N) along this
track which traverses the ridge up to One Tree Hill.
From summit continue N. along ridge to cross gravel road coming up
from the right, but keep to faint tracks on ridge. About ! mile past summit
a fence lies across the track and marks the boundary of a cleared area beyond.
Further N. of the ridge a farm house can be seen where the ridge narrows.
However, a few yards before coming to the fence, turn sharply to the right
(E) to leave the ridge. By sidling and dropping to the right, meet a spur
which leads of! the ridge. Though steep, the spur soon eases to a more
gradual gradient where old cart tracks wind through open scrub and grassy
clearings down to a small creek. Cross the creek and climb the further bank,
going E. through taller timber and in a short distance up to a narrow, cleared
ridge running N/S. An unfenced road on the top of this ridge can be seen
leading to a farm less than t mile to the S.
Follow the road to where it enters the farm property, leaving it to turn
left (E), and to follow a fence down to a timbered gully. At the end of the
fence, turn right to find a narrow bridle track leading through scrub and
timber and skirting a bushy creek bed on the left. Keeping in a general S.E.
direction for about i mile, the track crosses a reed-bound creek bed, just
beyond which can be seen a fenced, gravelled road. (2?. miles past One
Tree Hill).
Turn right <S.E.) down this road which descends to a broad and shallow
timbered valley intersected with a number of water courses. Ignore all
E.W. branch roads. The road starts to climb high ground again and in !
mile look out for a well-formed branch road climbing steeply to the left (E).
This road leads up to the Yarra Ridge road, from which good views of
Steel's Creek Valley and the Yarra Valley may be taken from the banks of
a road cutting or from cleared paddocks on the left (W) side of the road.
Turn S. down the ridge road and in !. mile come to road junction. Take left
hand (W) branch descending hill to cross aqueduct, then along KinglakeMelbourne road back into Yarra Glen.
MAP REFERENCE: Yan Yean Military Map, I" to I mile
NOTES COMPILED: April, 1960
-A.S.
WALK
Page Sixty-three
SUNBURY-EMU CREEK-WILDWOOD-SUNBURY
Distance: 12 miles
TRANSPORT: Return rail ticket to Sunbury.
DESCRIPTION OF ROUTE:
After coming out of the station gate turn left and cross the railway line
over the footbridge, then walk down the street opposite, passing the post
office on the N.W. corner of the first intersection. Continue down the same
street to the next intersection and turn down a diagonally running street
<N.E.) to where it meets the Sunbury-Bulla Road at the War Memorial. Walk
300 yards S.E. along the Bulla Road passing a street on the left with a church
school on the corner. Keep to the same road passing another street on the
left, but take the third street which in a few hundred yards leads down to the
local swimming pool.
At the upstream end of the pool, a low concrete causeway spans Jackson's
Creek. Cross here and follow the eastern bank upstream for a short distance
to where a farm track, leading up from a wooden bridge, goes uphill. Follow
the track uph111, keeping to its left, but leave it altogether when an old
masonry wall is seen, also on the left. A narrow pad leads past the wall up
to a grassy prominence on about the 700' contour line. Follow the edge of
the scarp northwards for about l- mile to where it overlooks an easterly bend
of the creek. This point offers good views of Sunbury, Rupertswood below,
and flat-topped Burke's H111 overlooking all.
Continue for another l- mile northwards along the scarp which swings to
the north east. Here the railway line can be seen entering a deep cutting
a short distance ahead. Look out for signs of a faint cattle pad leading up to
a fence on the right. Cross fence going due east, soon picking up a farm
road, sheltered on the right by a belt of tall trees, till the Lancefield Road is
crossed 3 miles north of the farmhouse marked on the map (802656). After
crossing to the other side of the road, follow a shallow grassy gully in a N.E.
direction to the remains of an old stone fence. An overgrown road is soon
met, and in about !1- mile from the Lancefield road the gully deepens and the
ruins of a farm house and orchard are seen to the left. Cross the gully
where it meets Emu Creek, then walk downstream a few hundred yards to
where an easy crossing may be made. Climb the opposite bank, and taking
an easterly course, in 1o- mile enter the northern edge of a lightly timbered
zone. On a clear day the plains offer an uninterrupted panorama of the
Macedon ranges from here.
Now turn S.E., go through timber to cut the Wildwood road in !1- mile
<831643); then in a ! mile cross gully and turn east to meet the same road
at a bend (835638). Follow road S. for one mile, passing "Rockdale" on the
left, to where it swings S.E. and where the "Emu Flat" track begins <841622).
Leave road, keeping fence on right hand, go due south, and in ! mile come
to the rocky brink of the escarpment which overlooks the confluence of the
Maribyrnong River and Emu Creek some 250' below. The village of Bulla can
be seen 2 miles to the south. Descend scarp to find lunch site near bluestone
bridge and fireplace. <844612).
After lunch reclimb scarp and follow Emu Creek upstream. In about
a mile a deep gully has to be negotiated. The best plan is to descend to the
main stream, cross the gully's mouth, then continue sidling low along the
eastern bank until a sheep pad is picked up which leads down to a grassy
fiat, then up a long spur to finally regain the 600' contour level near a saddle.
Continuing northwards, another deep gully will be met in ~ mile; walk around
1ts head where a well defined pad leads in a N.W. direction to the Sunbury
Road near where it crosses Emu Creek valley and in ~ mile further on intersects the Lancefield Road. Continue W. for another !l mile, then cut across
paddocks, in a N.W. direction heading for the western end of a short belt of
pines. Go through a white gate which opens on to track leading down to
swimming pool, from whence the morning's footsteps may be retraced back
to the station.
MAP REFERENCE: Sunbury Military I"" =
NOTES COMPILED: November, 1959
Pa9e Sixty-four
I mile
WALK
o4Lpine ~eliaa\1
-Athol Schafer.
Summertime holidays being the only time during the year for most walkers
to visit the Alpine areas, it was decided to take things leisurely this season,
make the most of the opportunity, and have a really good look around. Consequently it was mid-afternoon, Boxing Day, that five of us landed in Bright,
off the bus from Wangaratta. Our next mode of transport was taxi which took
us a further four miles along the Alpine Highway to Freeburgh, to turn down
an unobtrusive side track winding a mile or so across farm land, with the
occasional stop to open and close the odd gate. The last paddock was passed
where the valley narrowed and the car bumped to a stop. This was it! We
piled out, adjusted boots and gaiters and gingerly eased the full packs on to
our shoulders. It was 4.30 p.m., and ahead of us Dungey's Track disappeared
into the tall timber - the track which was the first stage of our fortnight's
tour over the State's highest mountains and plateaux.
ROCKY VALLEY DAM
The start-off looked promising. Sunny weather and a shady track crossing
and re-crossing the gently ftowing water of Snowy Creek. At the ninth crossing
<a small jump across) we found our campsite, a grassy comfortable spot.
An ominous change in the weather picture greeted us next morning. So it
was an early start, in time to be breakfasted and away before the heavy clouds
descended, enshrouding us in rain and mist. Eight o'clock found us further
along the track peering through the misty drizzle, straining for a glimpse of
the next landmark. There it was! Ahead, a small tributary joining the creek
and an old logging track beside it, while Dungey's turned sharply to the left
where it goes to climb Simmon's Gap. However, this was where we were to say
goodbye to Dungey's until a few days later where we were to encounter it in
a different area.
Snowy Creek, now running high with a local ftash-flood, was crossed for
the last time, and we started up the old trail which was soon lost beneath our
feet amid the new shrub and bush growth. The gully was steep and the best
path was found under the treeferns and ti-tree overhanging the now-flowing
rivulet. A steep gradient and full packs gave the excuse for several rests en
route to the top. A few hundred yards below the ridge, a well-defined pad
was picked up, making the going much easier and leading up to a small saddle.
As the gradient slackened so did our breath and we continued along the
lightly-timbered ridge, the Stony Creek Top as it is known, in a northerly
direction. A small knob was rounded, and there was a view of Mt. Feathertop
WALK
Paqe Seven
emerging out of the cold and billowing mists, looking very distant and straddling the Razorback, the long, high ridge ahead. It was our first glimpse of the
mountain which was to dominate the scenery <and us> for the next few days.
We kept up our ridge walking, skirting the head of a wide valley, the weather
then improving a little so that we could see at the foot of this valley the
clearings near the village of Harrietville. Conveniently varying the scenery for
us, the track swung to the south-east, climbing up to a small clearing from
where we could see the massive summit of Mt. Fainter North. A few hundred
yards further along the track and we found ourselves dropping down to the
old Stockyard at Dungey's Gap. We passed through the yard and then undertook the long, slow climb up to the further ridge.
The ridge here was narrow, sharp and steep, running north and south.
At last we were on the Razorback, and it was time for lunch. Dry, but there
was a fine view to claim our attention. At our feet the ground simply dropped
away steeply, lost to view in the timber tops, down into the Kiewa Valleyand, just over the way as it were, upthrusting from forested slopes, the great
sprawling Fainter peaks with Mt. Bogong itself, mantelled with rolling clouds,
occasionally peeping over their shoulders.
Lunch over and we were switch-backing southwards along the Razorback.
over a series of knobs, every time gaining a little more altitude, until emerging
on to a more open one <actually a miniature snowplain, complete with daisies)
giving us a splendid view of the country through which we had travelled. It
was 3.30 p.m. and by this time Feathertop appeared much closer than since
our first glimpse, but ahead, the Razorback was seen dipping deeply into the
timber between us and the final climb up to the mountain itself. We found it
takes about an hour to negotiate this dip into the scrubby snowgum, though
there is no encouragement to loiter on this stretch as the ground is literally
alive with myriads of hungry ants. The track climbs out of this dip as if to
meet the high grassy spur of the mountain but, at a small saddle, swings
abruptly right to sidle the western flanks. The track itself, nothing more than
a narrow pad, is rocky and spectacularly overlooks the precipitous head gullies
of Stoney Creek Valley. There are some breathtaking aspects of this section
as the track winds around the gully tops and rises sharply over high and narrow
exposed saddles, until Feathertop Springs <the first water for eight hours) is
reached. A little way past the springs and we were at the saddle between Big
and Little Feathertops. The summit we were saving for the morrow and clearer
weather. As the smaller mountain is by-passed in a matter of minutes we were
soon striking out along Bungalow Spur and into the westering sun, and by
six o'clock tottered wearily into the welcome refuge of Feathertop Hut.
The sun was up with the dawn next morning and was to stay out for the
next week. This day was Acclimatisation Day. This meant a spell from the
fag of pack-bearing, a sleep-in, a leisurely "brunch" and a lazy wander around
the snow meadows near the hut. During the afternoon, there was the joy of
an unhurried excursion to the summit of Mt. Feathertop. Weather conditions
were immaculate, the mountain vista clear in detail, and so an hour was spent
languidly surveying our route for the days ahead. Then a brief but exhilarating
scramble down the northern spur to the Springs track along which we retraced
our previous footsteps back to the hut.
Next day we were away early in the crisp morning air and had passed the
track junction by the crucifix, taking the right-hand branch to the south and
sidling the western flanks of the Razorback to the first dip in the ridge. Just
beyond this dip a snowpole line may be seen leading over a large knob a short
distance ahead, beyond this again the easily recognisable Twin Peaks with
Mt. Hotham appearing as a long grey-green hump on the horizon. Our route,
however, was along the pad which leaves the Razorback at the saddle just
before the large knob, sidling eastwards around it. At its most easterly extremity small snowfields slope gently further to the east - the beginning of
the Diamintina Spur.
These little snowfields, covered in summer wildflower and hedged by
irregular rows of snowgum, soon give way to a series of steep sided grassy
knobs comprising the middle section of the spur. There are walls of mountains
WALK
~
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.....,
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SNOWPOI.ES
TR,t..CKS
0
I
SCALE GF MILES
2
J
"WALK"
4
MT HOTHAM 8 BOGONG HIGH PLAINS.
·-----------------------,
IwA;c~e:~t~e!
II
Challenge of
BEAUTIFUL
Wh.,~~u~ ~t::u~ ~ ~de,land
of
sce~k g'andeu,
I
I
I
I
I
Specially arranged March, 1961 - Long Week-end
trip to famous Cradle Mountain, Lake St. Clair. Reserve
and Mt. Field National Park (1 0-13th March).
Leave Melbourne by T.A.A. Friday evening for
Devonport - returning to Melbourne Monday evening.
Spend two delightful days in Tasmania's spectacular
mountain and lake country.
Literature, Maps, etc. and Full Details from-
Tasmanian Government Tourist Bureau
I
II
I
I
I
I
I
254 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
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