San Francisco II - Assembly Guide - Pack 1

T
he most fearsome ships of the Spanish Armada of 1588
were the heavily armed galleons. This class of sailing ship
first appeared in the 16th century and for 150
years remained the most powerful warships of their
time. The San Francisco II was one of the ships to
survive the Armada’s defeat
by the Royal Navy and
returned badly damaged to
the port of Santander in Spain.
TECHNICAL DATA:
The San Francisco II
Model no: 22452
Degree of difficulty:
Length: 680mm (26 3/4in)
Height: 520mm (20 7/16in)
Beam: 240mm (9 7/16in)
Scale: 1:90
Not suitable for children under 14 years of age. Model for collectors only.
1 THE SAN FRANCISCO II
GALLEONS
The name ‘galleon’ is applied to any large European ship with
several decks that plied the seas between the 16th and early
18th centuries. They included both warships and merchant
vessels, but both types were likely to carry armaments in the
form of medium-sized cannons, typically the demi-culverin.
T
Right: Columbus’s ships, the caravels,
Niña and Pinta, and the Santa Maria,
a small carrack.
longer, narrower, hull and a lower
forecastle than a carrack, giving it a
much sleeker line and the ability to
cut through the water when running
ahead of the wind, and a combination
of stability and manoeuvrability. Other
typical features of the galleon were a
square stern, replacing the rounded
profile of a carrack, and a projection
from the bow below the forecastle,
known as the beak.
Galleons usually had three masts,
although some larger examples had
four, or very occasionally five. The
foremast and mainmast were squarerigged, but the mizzen – and the
fourth, the bonaventure mizzen
when present – carried triangular
lateen sails.
DeAgostini
he galleon evolved from
vessels such as the light,
speedy and manoeuvrable
caravel, which was used mainly in
coastal waters, and the much bulkier,
more stable and capacious, but
slower, ocean-going carrack. Carracks
usually had a high aftcastle and a long
bowsprit, while the caravel had a
lower castle and shorter bowsprit.
Both ships were developed by the
Portuguese in the 15th century, at
the beginning of the Age of
Discovery. The caravel was excellent
for getting close to shore, and led the
exploration down the coast of Africa,
but the carrack was used for longer
voyages of discovery, as it could hold
more provisions. The ship in which
Columbus sailed to the Americas in
1492, the Santa Maria, was a small
carrack (or nao), while the
accompanying vessels, the Pinta and
Niña, were caravels. Larger carracks
were used for trade once the routes
had been opened up, while the
caravel was better suited to fighting.
The galleon combined the best
features of its predecessors. It was
larger than a caravel, with a much
Above: A galleon in full sail must have
been an awe-inspiring sight.
DeAgostini
with archers raining arrows down on
the crew of the enemy vessel from a
high aftcastle as a prelude to boarding
and bloody hand-to-hand combat,
from the 16th century warships came
increasingly to rely on blasting
opponents out of the water with a
broadside from ranks of cannons.
This meant that aftcastles could
be significantly lowered. At the same
time, the lateen-rigging of the mizzen
and bonaventure mizzenmasts were
gradually replaced with square sails
and a spanker.
DeAgostini
Above: The English galleon, the Mayflower, which carried the Pilgrim Fathers to the
religious freedom they craved in the New World, in 1620.
Adapted to suit
At first, galleons were used mainly by
the Spanish and Portuguese, but
eventually all the maritime powers
with an Atlantic fleet had their own,
and adapted them to their own special
requirements. British galleons, for
example, tended to be a fair bit
smaller but considerably quicker than
their Spanish counterparts, but the
sheer durability of the latter tended
to compensate for this.
The shape of the galleon evolved
over time, with various nations
claiming credit for the several
improvements made.
The changing demands of warfare
at sea had a considerable effect on
galleon design. While earlier naval
engagements were at close quarters,
THE MANILA GALLEON
Most galleons displaced no more than 500 tonnes, but those that plied the
trade route between Acapulco and the Philippines could be up to four
times larger. The route, which operated from 1565 to 1815, took
advantage of Pacific trade winds by sailing out through the South Pacific
and returning north of the Equator. Cargoes landed at Acapulco were
carried across Mexico to Veracruz, and loaded on smaller galleons bound
for Spain, so in effect fulfilling Columbus’s dream of finding a trade route
to the Indies by sailing west.
Labour intensive
Although the galleon’s masts were
usually of pine, the keels were
generally of more durable oak, while
the rest of the hull and the decks
were constructed from various other
hardwoods. It took many months and
literally hundreds of skilled men – not
only carpenters and shipwrights, but
also smiths, coopers, pitchmakers and
so on – to build a galleon. The high
costs of all this effort were met by
consortia of wealthy merchants when
the ships were meant for trade, and
by the exchequer when they were
to be used as warships. But privately
built galleons could be switched
quite easily to military use, and
this was usually the fate of any
trade galleon captured in warfare
or by looting freebooters.
Their very adaptability meant that
galleons were the main form of large
ship for nearly 200 years, before they
were replaced by more specialized
forms: the tall-masted, square-rigged
Dutch fluyt for cargo, and the fast,
two-masted brig and the larger,
three-masted ship of the line,
with no castles to speak of and
ranks of cannon to fire broadsides,
as warships.
2 THE SAN FRANCISCO II
Galleons were fitted with special
rigging systems that could be
operated by just a few men, as it
was not unusual for a high
percentage of crew members to
die on a long voyage.
ATTENTION! Assemble under adult supervision. Unsuitable for children under 14.
To assemble this model we recommend that you follow the step-by-step guide.
1
1. Follow all assembly steps CAREFULLY.
Take all the time you need. First look at the
photos and read all the documentation included
in the kit, as it will help you assemble the
model correctly:
• Parts list with Dimensions and Materials.
• Cut Sheet with precision-cut numbered parts.
• These instructions.
4
4. To ensure the perfect adjustment of cast
metal parts, go over the edges with a small
file before fitting to eliminate possible burrs
and impurities.
5
2
5. To give a more authentic appearance to
the ship’s sails, dye them in some tea. When
completely dry, add them to the ship without
ironing them.
2. To remove the wood pieces (see Cut
Sheets), carefully cut the tiny strands joining
them to the sheet. Use the Cut Sheets to
identify fully the precision-cut parts.
After removing the parts from the sheets to
use them during assembly, carefully sand them
before gluing in place.
Given the nature and origin of the wood,
there may be slight differences in the tone
or colour of some material.
3
6
6. For parts that need bending or curving,
dampen them in water for greater flexibility. You
can also use a bending press, or plankbender,
which is highly useful during assembly.
7
3. To cut to size and identify the parts which
are not prefabricated, look at the parts list
where you will find:
• Part number.
• Part description.
• Number of same parts to be cut and used
in the model.
• Part dimensions (thickness, width, length,
in that order).
• Material used to make the parts (subject to
modification by prior notification.
7. Before mounting the pulley blocks or deadeyes, it is best to enlarge the holes with a
0.75mm diameter drill.
8
GLUES
Apply glue sparingly and in strict accordance
with the manufacturer’s instructions. There are
different types of glues that can be used to
assemble the model.
White glue
This is also known as carpenter’s glue or PVA.
It can be applied directly or with a brush to
one of the parts to be glued. Clean off any
excess glue immediately after joining the
parts to avoid staining when fully dry.
Contact glue
This glue can be applied with either a brush or a
flat spatula. Apply a thin coat to both surfaces to
be joined. Before joining the parts, leave for
approximately five minutes. After joining, apply
light pressure and remove excess glue.
Fast-drying glue
Apply a tiny amount directly to the point where
the parts are to be joined. It is very important
that the parts are correctly positioned as you
will not be able to move the parts again to set
them correctly.
Metal glue
Super Glue Gel or Two-part epoxy glue
PUTTIES
Use regular stopping putty for wood. Read the
manufacturer’s instructions carefully!
Applying putty
To fill holes or cracks in the ship’s hull, apply
the putty with a flat spatula. Allow to dry and
softly sand the entire surface of the hull to level
off the putty.
VARNISHES
Use clear (not coloured) stopping varnish. Read
the manufacturer’s instructions carefully!
Applying varnish
Use a brush to apply varnish to wood. Sand
the surface and thoroughly clean the part
before varnishing. Varnish as follows:
1. Apply a first coat and allow to dry.
2. When dry, sand and clean the part.
3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2.
4. Apply a third coat and allow to dry.
5. When dry, polish the part using steel wool.
PAINTS
Use acrylic (water-based) paints. Read the
manufacturer’s instructions carefully!
Applying paint
Use a paintbrush. Sand the surface and clean the
part thoroughly before painting. Paint in the
following order.
1. Apply a coat of varnish to prepare the
surface to be painted. Allow the part to dry.
2. When dry, sand and clean the part.
3. Apply a first coat of paint and allow to dry.
4. When dry, apply a second coat of paint.
1 THE SAN FRANCISCO II: GENERAL TIPS
GENERAL TIPS
•Varnish 200cc pot (item 27621)
Required tools and accessories:
•Brush to apply varnish
•White glue (item 27601)
All tools and
Recommended extra tools and accessories:
•Quick-drying glue (item 27611)
materials are
•Half-round file (item 27052)
•Hand drill (item 27018)
available from
•Bending press, or plankbender (item 27024)
•Hammer (item 27017)
•Sandpapers – medium grain (grain 240), www.model-space.co.uk •Nailer (item 27023) •Pliers (item 27012)
•Electric grinder/drill (27077)
very fine grain (1000)
Ref:
1
2
3
4-12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
Description
False keel
Mainmast and foremast knightheads
Mizzenmast knighthead
Frames
Waist deck
Bowsprit deck
Helmsman's deck bulkhead
Helmsman's deck
Aft deck
Fore deck
First stem knightheads
Second stem knightheads
Third stem knightheads
Bottom base of the upper stern
Upper stern
Deck lining
Deck bratticing
Edge of the fore deck
Bulkhead lining
Bulwarks
Hull lining strakes
Interior lining strakes for bulwarks and head rails
Deck stringers
Rubbing strakes
Doors
Rubbing strakes that extend the limber boards
Stem
Cutwater
Keel
Stern post
Loading tracks and vertical reinforcements
Rudder blade
Rudder half-hinges
Rudder hinge pin
Upper stern door
Windows
Shields with lion
Shields with tower
Gunport shutters
Frames for gunports without shutters
Helm
Upper stern arches
Gallery side support arches
Gallery central support arches
Gallery
Head rails
Gallery lining and head rails
Columns
Gallery handrail
Limber boards
Small rungs on the boarding ladder
Large rungs on the boarding ladder
Bow riders
Stern riders
Cat davits
Bowsprit support pillar
Side walls of the helmsman's cabin
Forward wall of the helmsman's cabin
Aft wall of the helmsman's cabin
Roof of the helmsman's cabin
Lining for the helmsman's cabin
Strips for edging the helmsman's cabin
Amount
1
2
1
9
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
1
1
40
1
1
7
2
70
12
2
4
6
4
1
1
1
1
3
1
6
3
1
2
6
6
22
10
1
2
2
2
1
2
10
62
2
4
12
12
2
2
2
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
Dimensions (mm)
Pref 4
Pref 4
Pref 4
Pref 4
Pref 1.5
Pref 1.5
Pref 1.5
Pref 1.5
Pref 1.5
Pref 1.5
Pref 4
Pref 4
Pref 4
Pref 1.5
Pref 1.5
0.6x5x500
0.6x5x500
1.5x3x500
0.6x5x500
1.5 Pref
2x5x500
0.6x5x500
2x2x500
1.5x3x500
Pref
2x2x500
Pref 4
Pref 4
4x4x310
4x4x100
1.5x3x500
Pref 4
Pref
Diam 1x10
Pref
Pref
Pref
Pref
Pref
Pref
Pref
Pref
Pref
Pref
Pref 1.5
Pref 1.5
0.6x5x500
Pref
Pref 1.5
2x5x500
1.5x3x7
2x5x10
4x4x50
4x4x20
5x5x50
5x5x20
Pref 1.5
Pref 1.5
Pref 1.5
Pref 1.5
0.6x5x500
2x2x300
Material
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Ramin
Mahogany
Mahogany
Mahogany
Plywood
Mahogany
Ramin
Applewood
Applewood
Cast in metal
Applewood
Mahogany
Mahogany
Mahogany
Mahogany
Applewood
Mahogany
Brass
Brass wire
Cast in metal
Cast in metal
Cast in metal
Cast in metal
Cast in metal
Cast in metal
Cast in metal
Cast in metal
Cast in metal
Cast in metal
Plywood
Plywood
Mahogany
Cast in metal
Plywood
Applewood
Applewood
Applewood
Applewood
Applewood
Applewood
Applewood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Mahogany
Ramin
2 THE SAN FRANCISCO II: LIST OF PARTS
LIST OF PARTS
Check that all the necessary ship parts are present and that you have all the necessary paints, varnishes and glues and the
tools that you need to build the model. Follow the steps CAREFULLY.
!
Masthead rigging
1
3
2
2
1
1
Fit and glue the masthead rigging for the fore- and mainmasts 2 and the mizzenmast 3 to the false keel 1, ensuring that each is perpendicular, making
a 90º angle with the keel. Use white glue.
2
Fitting the frames
9
9
13
6
1
8
7
2
Fit the frames 7 and 8 into their corresponding slots in the false keel. Fit the waist deck 13 into place on frames 6 and 9, making sure that the hole
for the mainmast is close to frame 9. Then fit this assembly in place on the previously fitted frames (7 and 8). Continue to fit the frames 4, 5, 10, 11
and 12 onto the corresponding slots in the false keel. Make sure that they are perfectly aligned and fitted to their full depth into the slots, and that they
are perpendicular to the false keel. Do not glue them yet.
1 THE SAN FRANCISCO II: STEP BY STEP
THE SAN FRANCISCO II
STEP BY STEP
Fitting the frames, continued
9
13
12
5
6
4
11
10
8
7
Fitting the decks
3
18
17
15
16
9
14
18
14
16
17
17
3
13
15
Fit into place and pin the bowsprit deck 14 and the helmsman’s deck 16. Fit and glue the helmsman’s deck bulkhead 15 onto the helmsman’s deck,
supported by the elevation of the false keel. Fit into place and pin the aft deck 17 and fore deck 18. Using a brush, glue the frames to the false keel
and the deck with a 30 per cent mix of glue and water.
2 THE SAN FRANCISCO II: STEP BY STEP
2
Stem knightheads and upper stern
19
20
21
Glue the first, second and third knightheads 19, 20 and 21 to the side
keel, on both sides of the hull.
3 THE SAN FRANCISCO II: STEP BY STEP
4
4