of Leatherworking

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Instructions and techniques
for successful leatherworking
Introduction
Leather, one of mankind’s oldest natural resources, is a foremost gift to man from Mother Nature. Without it man might not
have survived.
The history of leather is closely merged with the progress of mankind. Long before man devised a written alphabet, he communicated
through simple drawings or sign language. Many of these “messages” were done on skins of animals which he killed for food. With the
skins of animals he was able to clothe and shelter himself. Modern archaeology has uncovered leather articles and artifacts from
cultures dating back over 33 centuries and found them to be in an excellent state of preservation.
The ancient Romans used leather as currency, and the style and quality of a Romans sandals conveyed his status in society.
When man realized the importance of recording his thoughts and knowledge in books which he could carry and store more conveniently
than stone tablets, he began to express himself on parchment leather pages.
During the Middle Ages, however, only the wealthy could afford boots, capes, saddles, etc. made of leather. Leather workmanship was
limited to a very narrow section of society. A secretive lot, Leather Guildsmen closely guarded knowledge of their art which they handed
down from father to son.
When Cortez conquered Mexico in the early 16th century, leather artistry came boldly into the New World. The Conquistadores brought
horses and with them came the need for saddles and other horse gear. Spain had long been a leader in leather artistry and the skilled
craftsmen who came over to the New Land coupled their vast knowledge with the inspiration they leaned from the beautiful floral
patterns to be found all about them. Thus came the transition from basic geometric designs dating back to medieval times to the floral
patterns of modern artistry.
Today anyone can enjoy leatherwork, the art of creating beautiful and useful articles of leather. Just as early man learned his “ABC’s”
on leather, this section is designed to teach you some of the basics of working with leather.
To decorate leather by carving, you need a small group of specially designed tools: swivel knife, camouflage, beveler, pear shader,
veiner, seeder, backgrounder and mallet. These tools enable you to create basic leather articles. As your skill and enthusiasm grow you
will want to add more tools to your collection. Of course you also need leather.
Leather is unique, different from any “cloth” put together by man, for it is the actual skin of an animal that grew as the animal grew.
The skins of bovine animals (cows, oxen, etc.) provide most of the leather for carving. These skins must be vegetable tanned so that
they will readily absorb moisture, allowing you to mold and form the leather easily.
Leather is usually sold by the square foot and is measured by special machines at the tanneries. The number of square feet is usually
marked on the underside of the hide with a marker, chalk or machine stamp. Known as a skin, the complete hide of the animal may be
left whole or cut into sections: sides, bellies, backs and shoulders.
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24
©2009 by Tandy Leather Factory. All rights reserved.
The thickness (or weight) of leather is usually measured
in terms of ounces. One ounce equals approximately
1/64" in thickness. Thus, 7-8 oz. means the leather is 7
to 8 oz. in weight or 7/64" to 8/64", making it approximately 1/8" thick. Lighter weight leather such as calf or
kip (large calf) range from 1.5 oz. to 3-4 oz. Heavier
leathers, 4-5 oz. to 10-11 oz. and more are from the
hides of mature cattle.
To make leather a uniform thickness, the hides are run
through a splitting machine. Since animal hides are not
of uniform thickness and since they are wet when put
through the splitting machine, the thickness of the
leather will not remain the same throughout the hide.
There will always be slight variations and that’s why
leather weights seldom measure out in exact 64th’s of an
inch. This is why leathers are usually shown as 4-5 oz.,
6-7 oz., etc.
Subdivisions of a Hide
The definitions of the various
parts of a hide are shown below.
A
B
C
D
Side
A + C + E or B + D + F
Single Shoulder
A or B
Double Shoulder
A+B
Back
A + C or B + D
Belly
Now that you have been introduced to the history of
E or F
leatherwork, you are ready to begin to learn to create
luxurious leather articles. Start with a billfold or key
case. Soon you’ll be making handbags, bowling bags,
sporting goods, etc. Or, you may wish to begin your leatherwork hobby by making a pair of moccasins or sandals, or decorating your home
with wall hangings and other accessories.
F
E
For centuries, leather has fulfilled a great need in man’s life. So, full speed ahead. You’ll be entering a fulfilling, creative hobby you’ll
enjoy all the years of your life.
How to Moisten The Leather
water
Vegetable tanned tooling leather must be moistened with water before you can work
with it. This procedure is called casing. As you wet the leather, the fibers swell and
soften, thus enabling you to stamp and shape it. Leather is moistened by rubbing a
damp sponge on it. Be sure your hands are clean. Rub the damp sponge on the flesh
side and then on the grain side. Apply the water as evenly as possible. When the
leather begins to return to its natural color, begin stamping. If your leather dries
before you complete the tooling design, it will be necessary to remoisten. Be sure
you case the entire piece to avoid water spots.
Caution: Always use glass or plastic containers for the water. Metal
containers may cause the leather to stain.
Do not grip tightly.
How to Use Craftool ® Stamps
Enhance the beauty of your leather projects with Craftool stamps. These may be used
to create original designs or for embellishing the beauty of your carved design. Use a
wood or rawhide mallet head to strike the top of the stamp to obtain its impression
in the leather.
Caution: Never strike Craftool® stamps with a metal faced hammer,
as this will damage tools.
Hold both the mallet and decorative stamping tool upright in a secure, but
relaxed manner. Hold the mallet in the center of the handle with your fingers rather
than the palm of your hand.
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25 1. Pivot action aids in
minimizing wrist and arm
movement. Use this motion
for light tool impressions.
2. Wrist and arm
action creates
most striking force.
Use this motion
for deep tool
impressions.
©2009 by Tandy Leather Factory. All rights reserved.
Fig. 2
Using Craftool ® Alphabet and 3-D Stamps
Alphabet stamps are a quick way of personalizing your leathercraft projects. 3-D stamps
come in a wide variety of designs like animals, pictorials, symbols, etc.
Using Alphabet & 3-D Stamps,
For best results:
1. Make sure leather is moistened (see page 25).
2. Place leather on top of a firm surface like
marble. This will help you create deep impressions.
3. Properly position stamp(s) on leather (Fig. 1).
4. Place handle in stamp (Fig. 2).
5. Make sure you hold the handle down firmly
while striking with mallet (Fig. 3). This will prevent the stamp from “bouncing”. Bouncing
creates undesirable multiple impressions on
the leather.
Proper positioning of stamp.
Fig. 1
Correct
D
A
Incorrect
A
N
Fig. 3
A
Result
Result
A
N
Step 1
3/32"
4-Prong Punch
Step 2
3/32"
First Prong Enters
Last Slit Punched
After punching corner slits, Remove tool and place first
begin punching with multi- prong in last slit, punch
prong punch. Space first slit again.
(from corner) same width as
the punch blade (3/32").
Step 3
Step 4
Stay On Guideline
Continue punching to
corner.
Corner Slit
Use Single Prong Punch To
Adjust Slit Spacing
If slits do not come out
properly spaced at corner,
use single prong punch to
punch remaining slits.
How to Punch Lacing Holes
Punch lacing holes after all project parts are cemented together around the edges.
For lacing around edges, use a Wing Divider (#3607-00) to mark a line around edges
to ensure holes follow in a straight line.
1. Use a single prong Craftool® Thonging Chisel (#8040 or #8044) to punch around
corners and in places where there is not room for multi-prong chisels.
2. Multi-prong Thonging Chisels (#8042 or #8046) come with various numbers of
prongs. A chisel of 4 or more prongs makes punching faster. After you punch once,
set the end prong back in the last hole you punched and hit punch with mallet. This
gives you three new holes and by placing one prong in the last hole, all holes come
out perfectly spaced.
Note: Place Poundo Board (#3461-01) on top of Marble Slab (#32228-00) and then
place your leather to be punched on top of poundo board. The marble provides a
firm base and the poundo board will help protect your chisel from becoming dull or
chipped. Strike the chisel hard enough to go through the leather, but not hard
enough to go all the way through the poundo board.
How to Lace
Lacing puts the finishing touch to handmade leather articles. How good the finished project looks depends very much on the lacing. Thus,
how you lace will have a great deal of importance in the appearance of the finished project. With the following instructions and illustrations, plus a little practice, you will soon be doing a neat, smooth job of lacing.
Note: Always lace with stamped or finished side of the project facing you.
Threading a
2-Prong Lacing Needle
Attaching Lace to Two-Prong Needle
Step 1
Step 3
Skive off end of lace
with knife.
Note: You should load two yards of lacing in
lacing needle at a time. Working with longer
pieces of lacing will be difficult and can
cause the lacing to wear and become frayed
as it is pulled through the lacing holes.
26
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Step 2
Point skived end.
26
Smooth side
of lace
Spring open needle. Insert skived end into needle, smooth
side up (as shown). Close needle on lace with needle nose
pliers or tap lightly with mallet so that prongs pierce lace
and lock in place. To remove lace, spring open needle.
©2009 by Tandy Leather Factory. All rights reserved.
How to Lace & Splice the Double Loop Stitch
Recommendations: Use 3/32" or 1/8" lace with the same sized slits or holes. Double-Loop Lacing uses 7-8 times more lace than the
length of the project (ex: 2’ will need 14’ to 16’ of lace).
Step 2
Step 1
Hold end of lace down
with finger.
Begin on front side, push needle through
first slit or hole. Leave 3/4" lace end
and continue on to next slit or hole.
Pull stitch tight; lace over the end you
left free. This forms a cross or “bight”.
Step 5
Step 6
Follow the same
procedures as in Step 1 & 2
making a cross (bight). Stitch
under the bight and pull stitch snug.
Step 9
End of lace can be
released.
Lace through the
next hole. The end
of the lace is now locked in place.
Step 10
Point end
Step 4
Step 3
Bight (Cross)
Needle
Push needle under
cross (or bight). Hold end
of lace down on opposite side.
Step 7
Lace through 3 corner
holes twice.
Continue
holding
down end.
Pull stitch under bight snug, but not
too tight. Lace through next slit.
Step 8
When lacing a
corner, stitch through 3
corner slits or holes twice each.
Be sure to go
through bight (cross)
on all corner stitches.
Step 11
Step 12
Tuck end
between
leathers
Lace until only 8"
of lace remains. You will
now have to splice the lace.
New
Splicing:
lace
Insert
Spread
new needle
leathers apart
& lace down
between leathers,
4 slits from lacing; pull out back;
leave 3/4" of end between leathers.
Tuck end of lace
between leathers and continue
your project with the old lace.
Pull old lace tight.
Cut off end at an angle,
allowing about 1/2" to remain.
Step 13
Step 14
Step 15
Step 16
Tuck end of
old lace between
leathers. Lace over with new lace so it’s
caught and won’t show. Continue lacing.
When you have
laced to starting
point, use modeling
stylus to pull end of the
beginning lace free of stitches.
From back side,
pull the end of lace out of slit.
From front side,
pull end of lace out of the loop.
Step 17
Step 18
Step 19
Approximately 8"
Tuck end between leathers
Maintain Loop
Cut off end
Loop
Loop
Loop
Step 20
Tuck end
between leathers
Push stylus tip of
modeling tool down between leathers
and hook it over end of the lace.
Pull end of lace out of
slit and up between leathers.
Two empty slits should appear
on the front side; one on the back.
Cut off end of
lace you have
pulled out and tuck end between leathers. Lace through the next slit.
Pull stitch tight and lace up
through loop from back side. All
slits on the back side should be filled.
Step 21
Step 22
Step 23
Step 24
Pull needle
through. Push laced edges together to
adjust starting loops for easier completion.
Pull any slack out of the first loop and
adjust lacing with fingers to make all
stitches appear equal.
Loop
Lace under
the bight.
Do not pull this stitch tight.
Carefully
cross over as shown
and push the needle down through loop.
Step 25
Step 26
Step 27
Sharp Knife
Pull end of lacing
down tight. Make
sure all stitches appear even and equally spaced.
Carefully
cut off end of
lacing. Tap lacing flat with
mallet or roll flat with a wooden dowel.
Push needle through the last slit
as shown. Bring it up between
the leathers and out between lacing.
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27 ©2009 by Tandy Leather Factory. All rights reserved.
27
Sewing a Running Stitch
The amount of lace needed for the running
stitch is 1-1/2 times the distance to be
laced.
Lacing Needle
Step 1
Grain
Flesh
Thread the needle
and then pierce the
opposite end of the
lace with a sharp knife
leaving a 1/8" slit.
How to Lace the Whipstitch - #1
The following instructions for the Whipstitch are for use on a project with separate beginning
and ending points. The amount of lacing required for the whipstitch is 3 to 3-1/2 times the
distance to be laced.
Step 2
Step 1
Step 2
Begin lacing, starting
between the two layers of
leather. Leave about 1/4"
at the end where you slit.
Lace through hole as
shown. Keep the lace from
twisting. Pull the stitch up
tight to lock the lace.
Begin lacing, starting
in between the layers
of leather. Leave about
1/2" at the end.
Step 3
Push needle through the
second hole. Pull stitch
up tight. Continue lacing,
tightening the lace as
you go.
Step 3
Push the needle through the
next hole from the back,
through the slit and out
through the opposite hole
in front.
Step 4
Push needle through last
hole as shown. Bring it up
between the leathers and
out between lacing.
Carefully cut off the end of
lacing.
How to Lace the Whipstitch - #2
Step 4
The following instructions for the Whipstitch are for use on projects with common beginning and ending points such as billfolds. The amount of lacing required for the
Whipstitch is about 3 to 3-1/2 times the distance to be laced.
Pull the stitch up tight
to lock the lace. Continue
lacing remainder of project.
Step 1
Lacing Needle
Step 5
Grain
Pull the beginning stitch tight
and continue lacing, pulling the
stitches tight as you go.
Flesh
Beginning Stitch
Step 6
Step 2
Thread the needle and
then pierce the opposite
end of the lace with a
sharp knife leaving a
1/8" slit.
Step 4
Step 3
Beginning Stitch
Push needle through second
hole, then thread it through
slit in end of lace and
through opposite hole.
Loose Loop
Lace to the
second to last hole
and leave a loose hole.
Step 7
Push needle through last
holes. Spread leathers; push
needle through next-to-last
hole on back, bring needle up
between leathers.
Beginning
Stitch
Step 8
Step 5
Loose Loop
Beginning Stitch
Lace around project leaving a loose loop in second
hole from the beginning
stitch. There will be one
un-laced hole between
first and last stitch.
Pull loose loop tight
and continue pulling
all slack out of the lace.
Pull all stitching tight;
pull end of lace tight.
Trim off end of lace close
to leather, tap all lacing
flat with smooth mallet.
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Beginning Stitch
Step 6
Step 8
Step 7
Pull the first loop tight, over end of lace as shown.
Step 9
Begin lacing, starting
between the two layers of
leather. Leave about 1/4"
at the end where you slit.
Continue lacing, tightening
the lace as you go.
Lace through the last hole in
front, then through last hole
on back again, then through
the first loose loop as
shown.
Pull end of lace tight to
take slack out of last loop.
Cut off end of lace with
sharp knife and tap all lacing flat with a smoothfaced mallet.
Tandy Leather Factory store managers are
experts in leathercraft. They are happy to
answer any questions you may have, as well
as demonstrate any leathercraft technique.
28
©2009 by Tandy Leather Factory. All rights reserved.
Step 1
Step 2
Push end of thread through
needle eye about 1/2".
Step 1
Push one needle through first
hole and pull to center of thread.
Push needle from front side
through second hole.
Pierce thread with needle point
as shown.
Hand Stitching
Step 3
Push thread up on needle. Pull end of
thread through eye as far as it will
go. Hold needle and pull thread over
eye to lock end of thread.
Step 2
Push needle from back side
through same hole. Use care not
to puncture thread with second
needle. Pull stitch tight. Push needle from front side through third
hole.
How to Thread the Needle
Note: Attach a needle to each end of
thread, following these instructions.
Step 3
Push needle from back side
through same hole and pull stitch
tight. To finish off, back stitch
through last two holes and cut
threads off flush with leathers.
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Push needle through first hole in
top piece only, leaving about a 2"
tail of thread between the pieces of
leather. Stitch through second hole
in both pieces of leather and then
through third hole. Continue stitching in this manner to last hole, pulling each stitch tight.
When you reach the last hole, turn
and begin stitching back to starting
point, filling in alternate stitches.
Stitch to beginning hole.
When you reach the beginning hole,
go through hole in bottom piece
only, bring needle up between the
two pieces of leather. Tie end of
thread to the 2" tail remaining at
the beginning with a double knot.
Pull tight between the pieces of
leather and trim off excess thread.
Tap stitches flat with a mallet.
How to Hand Stitch Using
2 Needles
The amount of thread required for Hand
Stitch is about 3 times the distance to
be stitched.
How to Hand Stitch Using
1 Needle
The amount of thread required for Hand
Stitching is about 3 times the distance
to be stitched.
How to Apply Leather Finish
Leather finishes are applied to protect the leather and preserve the qualities and appearance. Before applying leather finish, there are several points which you should know.
• All tooling of the design must be completed before finish is applied.
• Be sure the surface area is dry and clean of any dirt, dust or other matter.
• Leather finishes must be applied prior to assembly.
1. Press a sponge dampened slightly with water to the top of a bottle of leather finish and tip the bottle so a little finish flows onto the sponge.
2. Apply a light coat of finish to the carved side of the leather, moving the sponge in a circular motion over the leather. Work the finish into the cuts and impressions.
3. Let the finish dry thoroughly, then apply a second coat if you desire a shinier finish. Allow the piece to dry thoroughly.
4. If a high gloss is desired, buff the leather with a piece of sheepskin or a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. The project is now ready to be assembled, either by stitching with waxed thread or by lacing with leather or plastic lace.
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29 ©2009 by Tandy Leather Factory. All rights reserved.
How to Set Line 20 & Line 24 Snaps
Use these snaps for holsters, straps, vests, etc. where a firm fastener is required.
Line 20 is for 5 to 7 oz. leather. Line 24 is for 8 to 10 oz. leather.
Craftool® Line 20 & Line 24 Setters
Stud
Stud
No. 8058 Sets
Line 24 Snaps
Socket
Socket
Flesh Side
Grain Side
Eyelet
Eyelet
No. 8057 Sets
Line 20 Snaps
Cap
Cap
Anvil
#8056 Anvil
Marble
Surface
Set Snaps in Strap as Shown.
Punch proper size holes for eyelet and cap.
Insert parts, set tool in position and strike firmly with mallet.
How to Set Glove & Line 16 Snaps
#8103-10
Snap
SetterSet
Set
#8103
Snap
Setter
Three Setters & an Anvil for Setting Glove & Line 16 Snaps
Socket & Cap SETTER
use These 2 Setters
For Glove Snaps
use smaller concave
circle for setting
Glove CAP
use These 2 Setters
For Line 16 Snaps
use larger concave
circle for setting
line 16 CAP
Glove Snap Parts:
STud
SOCkET
CAP
Stud & Eyelet SETTER
ANVIL
5/32" HOLE
CAP
EYELET
use same setter for
Glove & Line 16 Studs & Eyelets
Line 16 Snap
Setter
SOCkETS
STud
SETTING STudS & EYELETS
SETTING CAPS & SOCkETS
Glove Snap
Setter
Line 16 Snap Parts:
SOCkET
use Flat back Side of
ANVIL to set All EYELETS
Socket & Cap SETTER
EYELET
Setting
Line 16 Snap
Setting
Glove Snap
3/16" HOLE
3/32" HOLE
LEATHER
STudS
1/8" HOLE
LEATHER
use Flat back Side of
ANVIL to set All EYELETS
CAPS in CONCAVE CIRCLES on ANVIL
(On Hard Surface)
EYELETS on ANVIL
Position snap parts as shown. Insert setter and strike firmly with mallet.
Use a wood or rawhide
mallet on the setting tools.
30
See our full line of snaps and
other fasteners on pages 114-117
of our 2009 Leathercraft Catalog.
Never use a hammer.
Offers Good at All Stores Listed on pg. 16
30
©2009 by Tandy Leather Factory. All rights reserved.
How to Set Rivets
For permanently fastening
leather & other materials.
Craftool Rivet
Setter #8100
®
Rapid Rivets
Cap
Rapid Rivets are available in several sizes and lengths. Select the proper size and length for your specific
project. To properly adjoin, rivet post should extend about 1/8" above combined thickness of materials.
Post
Craftool Rivet
Setter #8100
®
Marble Surface
Cap
Post
Finished side
of material.
Punch proper size holes for the rivets. Push post through from back side
of project. Place on marble surface, the cap on post, with concave face
of setter on cap. Strike setter sharply with mallet. For double cap rivets,
set the same as regular rivets except you must use an #8056 Anvil under
the cap of the post.
Double
Cap Rivet
#8056 Anvil
Braiding the Three-Strand Mystery Braid
Step 1
Step 3
Make two cuts in leather strip, dividing it into 3 equal parts joined at both
ends. Edge and burnish each strip if you wish.
Step 2
With resulting braid kept at the bottom, go to the top end and pass strands
1 over 2, 3 over 1 and 2 over 3. Now pass the lower end of strip between
strands 2 and 3.
Step 4
Again pass strands 1 over 2, 3 over 1 and 2 over 3. Braiding cycle is now
complete, appearing as in Fig. 4. To continue braiding, follow Steps 2, 3 and
4 until strands are not long enough to complete another full cycle (Steps 2,
3, and 4). Equalize and smooth braid.
Pass the lower end of strip through the slit between strands 2 and 3.
To see our full line of products, visit us at
tandyleatherfactory.com or request a
2009 catalog from your nearest store.
CA
M
CRA P
Expect the best from Tandy Leather Factory with:
Outstanding Customer Service
Leatherwise Personnel
•
•
• Best Prices
• Best Selection
• End of Season Returns Allowed
• Free Camp Staff Training
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31 FT
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Flashlight Kit
No more stumbling around in the dark, ever again,
with our flashlight kit. Perfect for use in the cabin or
tent, walking to a ceremonial campfire or snipehunting. Decorate the included 2" leather rounder,
secure to wrist cord and you’re ready to go. A useful
camp project that can be used for years to come.
Approximately 5-1/2" long and uses two AA batteries
(included). Available in yellow.
47027-00
¢
Ret. $5.99 only
kit
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2009 Camp
& leathercraft supply guide
Flyer Code 901CF
Youth Group Leathercraft Set
Discover the fun of leathercrafting with the basics of stamping and painting. Teach kids pride in accomplishment by letting them craft their own leather items. Contains 50 projects. Kit includes eight wooden mallets, twelve stamping tools, 1/2" alphabet set, one extra handle for alphabet set, six Cova
Color® paints, ten brushes, two sponges, one 25-pack wristbands and one 25-pack of bookmarks.
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©2009 by Tandy Leather Factory. All rights reserved.