rililSTORICAII - Glengarry History
Transcription
rililSTORICAII - Glengarry History
''% \ \ \x ------\ t\ 1\.' \ \ ' t' ploNrEQ KlTct"ltN GLENG [[RR]T rililSTORICAII SOCIET-Y L2TH AINLIAL VOLLJ/\\tr 1972 j ' \ ..,''l r r l i 1. ..'.,r', i i !:r r !! ,,.'; l. ,ij : !:, :-l i-' INDEX Page 2 Officers and Directors 1973 Financial Statement for 1972 3 The Year's Activities 5 The Seven Mile Run Those Were The Days - 8 By Dorothy Dumbrille By Philip Ross-Ross --- 11 A Short Sketch of the Township of Lochiel - By C. Campbell Fraser - -- 14 The Glengarry Pipe Band'72 Scottish Tour - By Grant MacGillivray ,,--- 19 ------ 25 The King's Road Story - By Ewan Ross Documents and Sources of Information on Glengarry History - By Rev. Douglas G. MacKay -- Cover - Bv G. E. Broomhall (The society assumesno responsibility for the statementsand opinions of the authors of the various articles printed herein.) THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY 28 Officers o nd Directors 1973 - Past President:Mrs. V. F. Crowley, RR 3' Dalkeith, Ont' --------,-president:Mrs. Duncan Grant, RR I, Williamstown, ont. ,-,,ont. 1, Dalkeith, RR --Vice-President:Major R. G. MacGillivray, Ont' 3, Alexandria, --RecordingSecretary:Mrs' J' R' Harper, RR correspondingSecretary:Mrs. W. A. MacKinnon, Box 416, Alexandria ---Treasurer:Mr. G. E. Broomhall, RR 1, Alexandria, Ont' -----Directors-Kenyon: Mr. Keith Franklin, Maxville, Ont' -----Kenyon: Mr. Norman M. N4cleod, Dunvegan,Ont' ----' - M ax v ille: M r.Os i e V i l l e n e u v e ,M a x v i l l e ,Ont' -----527' 2159 -Alexandria: Mr. Lorne Hall, Alexandria, Ont' Ont' Dalkeith, MacGillivray, Grant Mrs. -Lochiel: OnL Dalkeith, MacMillan, ----*Lloyd Lochiel: Mr. -1411g45fe1;Mr. Philip Ross-Ross,Lancaster,Ont' *----* -charlottenburgh: Mr. Archibald MacDonelt, williamstown -- ,, Press and Publicity: Mrs. G. E. Broomhall, RR 1, Alexandria, ont. Ont' -- Yearbook Editor: Mrs. V. F. Crowley, RR 3. Dalkeith, Genealogists:Mrs. Gordon Blair, 88 Lowther Avenue, Toronto, Ont' --*Mr. Harold MacMillan, Hawkesbury, Ont. -----clengarry Scottish Museum curator: Mrs. R. MacRae, Dunvegan, ont. - Nor'WestersMuseum Curator: Mrs. Ruth Mowat, Williamstown, Ont. -- ,-- Building Committee: Mr. Ian McMartin, Martintown, Ont. -----Committee Chairmen-Program and School Projects: Mrs. J. R. Harper Antiques Show and Sale: Mrs. V. F. Crowley -------Fiddlers'Contestand Music Festival:Major R. G. MacGillivtay ,.Highland Games tsooth: Mrs. W. A. MacKinnon Mr. Lloyd MacMillan ---Refreshments: Mrs. Elizabeth Clingen, Alexandria, Ont. ---*-- -- Library: Mrs. W. A. MacKinnon, Box 416, Alexandria, Ont' Maxville, Ont. Franklin, Keith ---Historical Research:Mrs. Mr. Ewan Ross, Nairn Drive. Goderich, Ont. Archives: Mrs. J. P. Macleod, RR 1, Dunvegan,Ont. THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY 525-3448 93I'I357 525'3472 525-IOZT 525-1934 525-3872 527-5533 527-5468 525'2550 525'3472 874'Z7Lz 341-2494 931-1016 525-3872 525'3448 527-5699 347'3174 528-4315 525-IO22 525'3448 525-3472 525-1934 874-2712 525-1353 525't934 527'5533 525-3733 The Glengorry HistoricolSocietY 1972 FinonciolStotement HISTORICAL SOCIETY Balanceon hand Jan. 1, 1972 -----lvlembership Fees -----Donations Antiques Fair ,--County Atlas -----Highland Games Year Books Parade Float ----Book Sales Fiddlers' Contest Serviettes, Hasti-Notes, MaPs, etc' Artifact Purchase Miscellaneous Fees and Dues Memorials Conference Expenses Insurance Increase Advertising Postage,Printing and Stationery -,-----Essay and Historical Projects 44.s0 417.00 41.95 148.O0 $5,163.52 TOTALS Balanceon hand Dec. 31, 1972 -----GLENGARRY Receipts $t,739.64 353.80 550.00 l ,108.21 474.50 t01.42 159.50 25.00 Erpenses $ 213.15 357.50 t.62 r68.25 85.01 54.50 635.28 38.23 10.00 t53.52 22.00 20.00 tr6.20 17.00 365.21 r49.63 159.00 $2,566.10 $2,597.42 SCOTTISII MUSEUM Balanceon hand Jan. 1, 1972 ---,-Donations Admissions Membership Fees *-**-Provincial Grant Township Grant ----Maintenance and SupPlies Insurance Hydro Sign Permits Curator Assistant Curator Caretaker TOTALS Balanceon hand Dec. 31, 1972 -*---THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL Receipts $r,791.74 50.00 515.30 11.00 525.65 ,= Expenses $ $3,193.69 SOCIETY 74.39 304.72 39.46 10.00 615.10 123.00 t25.40 $t,292.0't $1,901.62 NOR'WESTERS MUSEUM Receipts llalance on hand Jan. l, 1972 -----Donations Admissions Concession Fees Provincial Grant Township Crant Maintenance and Supplies Insurance Hydro Curator Assistant Curator Hasti-Notes $ 934.20 300.00 585.27 86.00 885.28 600.00 TOTALS Balanceon hand Dec. 31. 1972 ---------- $3,390.75 Expenses $ 424.7s 141.00 81.95 728.O1 186.75 2L.6t $1,584.07 $1,806.68 ST]MMARY HistoricalSocietv $2,597.42 1,90r.62 1,806.68 Glengarry Museum Nor'Westers Museum TOTAL Cash on hand Dec. 31, 1 9 7 2 _ _ _ _ Bank balance Dec. 31, 1972 $6,305.72 $ 1.59 6,3M.13 TOTAL $6,305.72 Signed: G. E. BROOMHALL Treasurer AUDITOR'S CERTIFICATE I have examined the books and figures for the fiscal year ended the 3lst day of December, 1972, and hereby certify that they are correctly stated. Signed J. A. FRASER Auditor THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY The Yeor's Activities T h e c a l e n d a rm o n th sof| gT}foundtheexecuti veandmembersbusi l y Historical-society' As the society's involved in meetings anJ-activities of the Glengarry became better known to those in resourcesof genealogicatintormation, for insianie, executives' work increasedand the ancestors, Glengarry their search of information re at ldid th e i rb e s tto a c ta s ..p u b l i c r" t uti ontypes' ' forGl engarryandi tshi story. TheGlengarryScottishMuseumandtheNor'WestersMuseumwelcomed and efficient curators and hundreds of visitors, *"rro- *"t" greeted by the friendly undoubtedly aided brochures museum out of distrfbution Extensive assistantcurators. m any n e w fri e n d s to d i s c o v e rth e e nj oymentofhi story,asdepi ctedbythei temson display in the two museums' MEETINGS 6th in the The first business meeting in 1972 was held on APril was Collection' Slides The "Glengarry Glengarry District High School, Alexandria' shown. In M a y ,th e me e ti n g wasaddressedbyR ev' JohnMacK echni e' onthe ..Gaelic Culture". His scf,olarly and witty talk was greeted with enthusiastic subject applause. T h e S e p te m b e rm e e ti ngw asaddressedbyC mdr.R .H ' S tokes-R ees, and his 1ak was informative and amusing. It is with on his wartime "*p"ri"rr""r, of Cmdr..Stokes-Reesin February, 1973, and our passing Lf tn" i""r.r"a ;*J*" syirpathy is extended to the members of his family' of an In November, the society was honored by the presentation is a member of ,,Glimpses who Harper, Russell Dr. by Past" the of illustrated talk receiving copies of o,r,. ,o"l"ty. This tali< was very much enloyea by all. Members his Honorary received had Harper Dr. that The Glengarry News will have noted 1972' during Guelph of University the Doctoratelrom T h e J u n e a n d O c to b erbusi nessmeeti ngsw eredevotedtoreportsand general business. MUSEUMS' ACTIVTIIES G l e n g a rry S c o tti s hMuseum,D unvegan,openedas.usual i nmi d-June, the "official" but the annual hymn sing and picnic, held on July 2nd, was considered the museum, through passed visitors of up""l"g. During the suirmer, iarge numbers on the clearing proceeded Work children. school groups of loca] also and there were year. of the additional section of land donated to the society last The Nor'Westers Museum officially opened for the seasonon ;uns 24th, whe n C o l .Wi l l i a mP a te rs o n o ffi c i ated.A di spl ayofw orkbyl ocal craftsmenand The prizewomen was a feature on the opening weekend, and following''weeks. also at were Schoolhouse" "First and *ir-i"g school project displays ';Sogui Camp" of regionally-costumed collection a loan as well as summer, the auiing the mr.iseum and during dolls. The Grenville Historical 3ociety visited the museum on June 24th, of the Association Members also recorded. were children school the season,visits of area' for Preservation and Restoration Technology paid a visit to the Williamstown the and 14th, Oct' Saturday, weekend, closing and the Nor'Westers Museum on its THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY president, vice-president,other officers and members attended, acted as hostessesand served afternoon tea. MEMBERS' AMENDAITCE Mrs. V. F. Crowley, president, represented the Glengarry Historical Society at the annual meeting of the Ontario Historical Society, held June 22nd to June 24th, 1972, at the University of Waterloo, Waterloo, Ontario, and reported much interest in Glengarry and its history, as expressedby other delegates. The Spring Regional Workshop, for local societies,was held April 22nd at Fort Frontenac, Kingston, Ontario, and was attended by the president, and the corresponding secretary, Mrs. W. A. MacKinnon. The Fall Workshop, held at the Illock House, Merrickville, Ontario, September30th, was attended by Mrs. MacKinnon and Mrs. J. P. Macl-eod, society archivist. Mr. and Mn. G. E. Broomhall represented the Glengarry Historical Society at a conferenceheld at Belleville, Ontario, November 17th and 18th. The theme of the conference was "The Local Historical Society and the School", and a most colnprehensive leport was given by Mrs. Broomhall at the society's annual meeting held February 8th, 1973, in the board room, Ministry of Agriculture, Alexandria, Ont. On September 20ih, 1972, the president, Mrs. V. F. Crowley and past president, Major R. G. MacGillivray and Mrs. MacGillivray, attended the dedication ceremony of the memorial marker, in recognition of the MacGillivrays of "Dalcrombie" which was placed in the cemetery of St. Andrew's United Church, Williamstown. Following this ceremony, Mrs. Van Beek and her committee served tea in the church hall, guests of honor being Mr. and Mrs. George Arnott (the latter a relative of the late Miss Carrie Holmes MacGillivray). Several members also attended the unveiling of the plaque commemorating Simcn Fraser, at his former home, St. Andrews, Ontario, Sunday,October 15th. Many society members had the pleasure of attending a wine and cheese party on December 7th, as guestsof Dr. and Mrs. W. J. Johnson, at their home near Martintown. 1972 PROJECTS The historical project for high schools consistedof table model displays, nrade by students. First and secondprize winners were shown at Nor'Westers Museum during the summer, and the honourable mention model "Munro's Mills" was shown at the Glengarry Scottish Museum. Taking pafi in the July lst Parade at Alexandria, and sponsoredby our society, a number of young students from Laggan Public School formed a colorful display of provincial crests and flags on board a wagon float - this float won lst prize! A "Glengarry Essay Contest" was held and the first and second prizewinning stories "The Seven Mile Run" by Dorothy Dumbrille, and "Those Were the Days" by Philip Ross-Ross,respectively, are printed in this volume of the year book. Ihe $50 first prize for this contest was given to the society by Mr. Ewan Ross. The booth at the Highland Games was staffed by members and, as usual, was a focal point for old and new Glengarrians. The sixth annual Antiques Show and Sale was held September l5th T HE GL ENGARRY HIST ORICAL S OC IE TY and 16th, 1972, at the Green Valley Pavilion. Attendance was very satisfactory and the show successful. Reproductions of historical atlasesof Stormont, Dundas and Glengarry prescott and R.ussell were purchased and resold to interested members and friends. The Fiddlers' contest and Music Festival, held october 21st in the Glengarry District High School, Alexandria, brought our season'smajor activities to a close. Many donations of artifacts, and money, are given yearly to the society 1972, particular mention should be made of the generosity of Mr. Ewan but during Ross: $50; Mrs. Dorothy Dumbrille: $50; Mr. and Mrs. Philip Ross-Ross:$500. To all who help, in any way, the work of the society, much appreciation. Space dictates brevity, but it was a busy year! THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY The Seven Mile Run Bv Donorsv Durngnrllp When Viscount Monck, who afterwards became Canada's first Covernor General, r'isited Quebec in 1864 and journeyed up the Ottawa by boat accompanied by his wife, she wrote in her journal of the uncommon good looks of the Glengarry river men who drove the timber on the Ottawa River. Glengarry, home of these brawny Scots, is the most easterly county of what was once Upper Canada, bordering on the Province of Quebec, then known as Lower Canada. The ambition of almost every Glengarry boy was some day to be a river man. Norman MacRae was no exception. He and his brothers practised riding timber on smaller rivers until they were big and strong enough to venture with the loggingcrews on the Ottawa, or into Georgian Bay. Glengarry rivers, in pioneer days, wider and swifter than they are now; the De Grasse; De Lisle; Garry and Rigaud were near and navigable streamson which Glengarry boys learned to balance on timber without too much danger provided they could swim. Along the banks of the De Lisle, encampmentswere set up where the loggers stopped at night. dried their clothes and sought shelter with district settlers, the one large front room in a house accommodating the sleeping bodies of as many as 30 loggers, lying side by side wrapped in blankets, the great stove or fireplace adding much to their comfort. Glengarry was at that time thick forest. Homes were built of logs and, outside of sparse farming and the making and selling of potash, the settlers depended tipcn lumbering for a living unless they ventured west with Alexander MacKenzie, Simon Fraser, David Thompson or other gentlemenof the fur trade. The MacRae brothers, handsome, brave and resourceful, soon became expert loggers. All rvinter they cut timber and drew or rolled it to the banks of the rivers to wait the thaw and the spring breakup. One old Highlander, at the end of an unusually long and hard winter, reassuredhis neighbor, "The rains of spring always bring a thaw, whateffer. I never saw a spring yet when breakup didna come - and I've lived through thousandsof rhem!" The ice mcved out in early April, an exciting time in the MacRae home where everything centred around the departure of the men. Norman, a tall lad with wide shouldersand slim hips, a big, booming laugh and bold blue eyes the color of sunlit water, was a favorite. Many of the crew were French canadian and their songs were as well known to Norman as were those he sang in Gaelic. On this particular April morning when he and his brother, Andrew, went for the first time into Georgian Bay, they were filled with wild excitement. There is, to a logger, no more beautiful sight than solid miles of timber boomed back in the river waiting to be driven. On either side of this "boom" as it was termed. there was alwaysa boat called a "pointer", manned by eight of the strongestrowers whose duty it was to confine the bcom. Norman was superstitious about this trip. Many Scots claimed second sight. Ever since he was a small boy, "Big Norman" as he was now called, had known he possessedthis special gift. Once. when a neighbor's child had been lost in the bush, after two days and nights of search by everyone in the district, he had returned from Montreal, gone straight to the spot and found the three-year-old alive, sleeping under a spruce, on a mossy bank. He had made light of it, ..A fool for Iuck!" he laughed, but his mother knew this boy of hers was different, that he was T HE GL ENGAF RY HIST ORIC A L S OC IE TY ..guided by the Spirit". Norman was embarrassedwhen she talked about it but someti'ing told him this trip was a special one and much might be expected of him. Norman had learned a valuable trick from an Indian: to balance on a log in his corked boots, spin the timber around, drive it down lower at the end on *ii"h h" stood, then turn it completely over, end to end. This was the accomplishment of a very strong and agile man and Norman, who fulfilled both these requirements, did it over and over again, giving a triumphant shout each time his comradescheered. What a picture it made! There had been the exciting run on the first lap of the Ottawa River journey. when nights were spent in shanties.andhomes along the way, then the first sight of "big water", the entrance to Georgian Bay. Ahead of them lay two solid miles of logs boomed back ready for the run. Men waved to each other, the French Canadians sang lustily in their own language; while the air rang with the song of the Glengarry river men: "Ho-ro mo nighean donn bhoidtreactrl" Their songs bounded off the steep rocks on the shore and mingled with the music of the dark pines which seemedto be beating time with long arms stretched out over the Bay. There was a wind, Norman realized; quite a high wind! He could feel it through his rough homespun jacket. All river men dressedalike: heavy trousers tucked into high, corked boots, a bright knitted sash, heads capped in a tasseledwool toque knitted by some woman of the family from the wool taken from their own sheep. Red was the favorite color, contrived from dye from the sumach. Norman wasn't afraid even when he saw the river widen and his timber began to swing with the strong current around a bend into big water. He was now ridlng alone. In his hands he carried a pike pole, a long, strong stick, outfitted at the end with an iron claw. He grasped this more firmly and balanced himself carefully as he realizedhe had left the two pointers far behind. He was on his own now; his own man. He gave a loud whocp of triumph, exulting in his strength and confident of his agility to carry through. He could no longer hear the shouts of the other men. In front of him stretchedthe great expanseof dark, tossing Waves where the current swung sharply to 1he right. He tried to avoid a large log bearing down on his own but was unsuccessful;it struck his timber with terrific force, almost knocking him down. Novr he did begin to be afraid. The wind was much stronger here over the big water. His timber rose on a foam-cappedwave, then plunged down into a deep, green trough; up and down, up and down he rode with the water licking hungrily at tris tog to swing it sharply shoreward. How far away was that shoreline? He was afraid to look up. his maintaining of balancetaking all his concentration. A great wave broke over his timber and nearly swallou,edhim, then another and another! His hands on the pike pole were numb with cold and so stiff he could not feel the wood. In every crisis the strange second sight of the Highlander had sustained him; it didn't fail him now. He tJrought he heard his mother's voice calling to him on the wind, "Hang on Normie! Hang on, laddie; it's yourself that's going to be all right!" Norman wasn't cold any more. His clothesclung to his back and sweat formed on his forehead, running down to his eyes. Was it his fancy, or were the waves actually becoming smaller? Suddenly there were other timbers nudging, pushing against the one on which he rode. One THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY large log separatedfrom others and swung alongside him. When the timbers collided, Big Norman fell on his face, letting his pole fall from his helpless hands. His long arms dangled on either side of the two timbers, binding them together. And so they found him; the man on the other log took over just as he lost consciousness. When he revived he was wrapped in blankets. He realized he wasn't out in the cold any more but on the floor in front of a fireplace in a rough shanty of some sort. A big man in a checked shirt was stirring a big pot hanging on a crane and a most appetizing smell filled the room. Men were pulling off wet shirts and hanging them, steaming, in front of the fire. Andrew was bending over him, "That was a wonderful trip you made, Man", he said admiringly. "Seven miles, alone, in heavy water, on a single log! I doubt that any man has ever done the like before!" "Seven miles, was it?" said Big Norman, weakly. "Man alive, it seemed like seven hundred whateffer!" Then he whispered, huskily, "but I heared the Spirit, Andy; the Spirit spoke to me. I heard Maither say "Hang on, Normie, Lad!" Andrew would be the last to discredit Norman's imaginings, or rvhatever they might be, but others would not understand. "It's himself that's raving", he explained to the landlord who handed him a mug of the hot soup, "he doesn't know what he's saying whateffer!" He raised Norman's head and helped him drink from the steamingcup. "Here's something to warm yer insides, Laddie!" The seven mile run was never forgotten among the river men, or in the homes of Glengarry. Such deeds were the topic of conversation wherever people got together. Big Norman lived to be an old man and his descendantsstill take pride in telling of his strength and prowess to which this adventure was but the prelude. Many a boy in the county is ashamedtoday to be reminded by his grandfather, "Don't tbrget the past, Laddie, but remember it's what you, yerself, do today that counts!" -lsr l0 TIIE Pnrzr: Gr,Bxcenny Essay CoNresr GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY Those Vere The Days Bv Psrr-rp Ross-Ross This is the story of things I have seen or been told about in the past 50-60 years, mostly in the Township of Lancaster in the south end of Glengarry County. we came to live on Lot 31, concession I, Township of Lancaster,in the spring of L914. The original concession road is now in Lake st. Francis, somewhere between 500 and 1,000 feet from shore off Lot 31. ln L9I4 the lake water was so clear, one could see the bottom, 10-15 feet below the surface, and I have seenthe old piers of the bridge of the first road at Finney's Creek. Also one could and did drink ihe water without danger! The road was lost when the old Beauharnois Canal was built. A dam was put up which causedflooding and extensiveerosion. The government paid 40 poundsdamagesto the ownersof Lot 31 in 1853, also damagesto other owners along the lake shore. This first road formed the main street of South Lancaster, joining the present Highway No. 2 just west of the village, crossing the Raisin River near the iake. To the east it angled off at Faulkner's Point, became lost in the lake, came back to land at Westley Point and then was again lost in the lake. The second road started out at the same place, but kept well back from the lake till the water got too close through erosion, so a third road was built in 1876 which is now County Road 17, formerly known as King's Highway No. 2. The second road can still be seen as far east as Lot 31. This third road. built in 1876, was a concessionroad and statute labor was done on it till the province took it over. The roads in those days were bad' mud and bog in the spring, and dust in summer. When we moved here, and brought the kitchen stove and icebox from Lancaster Village to the farm, we had to add a second team to our wagon for the last half mile. The road at Lot 34 near the present Scalehouse was so bad that, when driving on one side, the other side moved. It was a iarge mud puddle. When it was taken over by the province after World War I, the first work was done by the farmers drawing stone from fences back in the country to a crusher set up a mile east of the village. The stone was crushed' drawn out and dumped in the middle of the road in a windrow during the winter and spread in Inthe 1920's,the right of way was widened and a proper surfacewas built. ru-*... To do this, a contractor, Mr. Irvine, set up a camp for his horses and men on the side road between 3l atd 32. Horses and dump wagons were used. King's Highway No. 2 was the main highway between Toronto and Montreal until a few years ago when it became so crowded 401 was started' Now we have eight lanes passingacross Lot 31, County Road 17, the Macdonald4artier Freeway (401) four lanes, and to the south of it the service road, all three roads in one block. In winter, in the early days, the roads were kept open by driving your horse or horses with sleighs, making a single track and turning out when one met another outfit. This track would build up until sometimesit would be three feet above the snow on either side. In places the roads became so bad that fences were cut and winter roads were made through the fields. I hauled logs to Vincent's Mill in North THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY 11 Lancasterhaving to drive through the farm fields between the 4th and 5th concessions, the side road being blocked. ln 1929 I hauled 10,000 feet of logs to the mill and it cost only $45.00 for having it sawn. It was a busy mill with farmers bringing logs from all over the country. Later on, plows were used in the winter to cut the ridges down. Two steel blades were mounted between a set of bob-sleighs and hauled by two or four horses. For years before road plows were used, the Military Road, now known as Highway 34, was rolled by a 6-foot roller drawn by four to six horses. This made a good road some 40-50 years ago. When plows were first used, they were paid by the mile and trip, and oniy brought out after a storm. One year King's Highway No. 2 was completely blocked from early Saturday till late Tuesday and the snow was level with the roof of the snowplow at Parco village. This was in the 1940's! At that time the snow was only pushed to the edge of the road and the banks were high, so it did not take long for the road to fill in again. Today the snow is plowed back to the fences, the plows coming out at the beginning of a storm. In 1914, the old harnessmaker in Lancaster,Mr. Vallance, who lived and worked in the house opposite the present Williamstown Road, told me that in the old days there was so much traffic on the Military Road betw.eenHawkesbury and South Lancaster that there were two lanes in winter with traffic going both ways at once. The produce from the Ottawa River and south was brought to South Lancaster, stored in warehousesand shipped out by barges. To take care of this heavy traffic, there were five or six hotels in Lancaster, and six or eight hotels, or boarding houses, in south Lancaster, plus two wharves. Later a government wharf was built. A ship ran between Montreal and Cornwall, stopping at all the villages and there was a smail tug belonging to the sawmill which hauled logs down the Raisin River and up and down Lake st. Francis to this mill, which was so busy it sawed day and night. Besides the sawmill, there was a tannery and big box factory which was later burnt. Finally, when railways were built between the Ottawa River and Lancaster. all this traffic died out. In early days, all the sand and gravei was drawn by horses on sleighs or wagons. Proctor's pit, south of St. Raphaels,kept a stove in a cave and so we were able to haul gravel all winter, which was easieras one could draw up to two tons easily. Those were busy, peaceful days, no noise, no smog, the winters were cold, bright, dry and good! The railway through Lancasterwas built 1850-55. Besidesthe station, there was a large freight shed on a siding, also an express shed and there were three big warehousesto the east of the station on a siding north of the tracks. In those days there was an agent or station master, and two operators, the station being open ?.1 hours, as all trains were reported and received orders here. There were l0 passengertrains a day, five each wayo and six stopped at Lancaster. The oldest was the Moccasin, a local passengertrain from Brocliville that carried all the milk to Montreal, 100 cans from Bainsvilleand 60 from Lancaster. In addition, there were the big freight trains and a way freight that stopped everywhere. Now no trains stop at Lancasterand the station is gone. When the railway was first built. there was a two-span iron bridge over the Raisin River. This river, up till lately, always flooded over its banks in ipring, flowing across the fly which was a low spot between Lancaster and South Lancaste-i t2 TIIE GLENGARRY IIISTORICAL SOCIETY crossing Highway No. 2 six or eight inches deep, and running into the lake a mile or so east of South Lancaster instead of west of it. One year the ice jammed at the railway bridge covering the tracks as far east as the station and washing out the ballast. The midnight passengertrain crossedthis flood safely, stopped west of the bridge and sent a flagman back who had to hold on to the rails to get to the station. After that there were watchmen kept at the bridge in the spring till the ice went out, up to the end of the 1914-18 war, even after the new one-spanbridge was built. Up till about 20-30 years ago we hauled ice from Lake St. Francis. The ice then was anywhere from 30 to 48 inches thick and we hauled loads on the lake up to 10 tons, but in the later years the ice was so poor and dangerous,we had '1o use the roads for safety. This ice was stored in icehousesand covered with sawdust. It was used to cool milk and for refrigeration. -2No Pnrze : GrnNcRnnv E,ssa"*CoNrnsr THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY 13 A Short Sketch of the Township of Lochiel Bv C. C.cMpsnLL Fnasnn On November 27th, 1818, the Township of Lochiel officially came into to that date it had been merely a part of the Township of Lancaster. But up being; the settlement of Lochiel began ?4 years before that with the arrival in 1794 of a group of about 40 families, mainly Mcleods, McGillivrays, McCuaigs and Mclntoshes from Glenelg in Scotland. They received grants of land in the neighborhood of Kirkhill, and so the first settlement in Lochiel was founded. A plaque commemorating this significant event was unveiled on the farm of Roddie D' K' Mcleod, Lot 18, Concession6, in 1965; incidentally, this farm has been in the same family since 1794 when it was granted to Alexander Mcleod, leader of that group of 40 families which formed the nucleus of what is today Lochiel Township. Among the early settlers of the township were many Camerons, and it is believed that that is why the township bears the name Lochiel in honor of the Chief of the Cameron Clan. In 1818 when Lochiel was giventownship statusthere was no municipal government in the sensein which we know it today. Upper Canada was divided into a number of districts, the most easterly of which was called Eastern District. It covered approximately the same area as the present United Counties of Stormont, Dundas and Glengarry. Whatever was done in the way of municipal government was carried on by the General Sessionsof the Peace. This body was made up of appointed Justices of the Peace and it met, perhaps at various places throughout the district, twice a year in June and December. These courts disposed of criminal casesbut in addition they had control of district or county property, roads and bridges, assessment, and the collection and expenditure of local taxes. They probably functioned with reasonableefficiency but they were not democratic institutions in that the people had no say in the selectionof the members. The first step towards democratic municipal government was made when the Parliament of Upper and Lower Canada passedthe Municipal Act of 1841. While this Act did not make provision for a Municipal Council within each municipality, it did set up a District Council which was given control over roads and other rnunicipal undertakings, including the collection of taxes. One or two representatives were to be elected from each township, the ones having more than 300 voters to have two members. The District Council was headed by a Warden who was appointed by the Crown. Lochiel's representatives in the first District Council of the Eastern District were Alexander Chisholm and John Stewart. A further change was made with the passing of the Municipal Act of 1849 which set up essentiallythe system of municipal government which we have today. That is, each township elected a council consisting of a reeve, a deputy-reeve and three councillors. The Eastern District ceasedto exist and was replaced by the United Counties of Stormont, Dundas and Glengarry. The Counties Council was made up of the reeves and deputy-reevesof the municipalities within its jurisdiction, and the warden was chosen by the members of the Counties Council from among themselves. Lochiel's very first municipal council elected in 1850 was headed by Alexander McDonell as reeve and John Stewart as deputy-reeve. These two gentlenren, therefore, representedLochiel in the first Counties Council which met in 1850. Alexander McDonell lived on Lot 33, Concession 4, of tochiel, a farm now owned by Pat Hammill, whose wife, the late Mary Margaret McDonell, was a granddaughter of the first reeve. ld THE GLENGARRV HISTORICAL SOCIETY The Township of Lochiel has, from time to time, provided a warden for the Counties Council. In 1854, Alexander McDonell, mentioned above, served as warden. Donald A. Macdonald was warden in 1856. He later was Member of Parliament for Glengary, became Postmaster General in the government of the Honourable Alexander McKenzie, and eventually was Lieutenant-Governor of Ontario. He lived at Garry Fen on Mill Square, Alexandria, the home now occupied by Arthur Nlaclaren. At the time that the Honourable D. A. was Reeve of Lochiel, Alexandria was part of the Township of Lochiel. It was only in 1883 that it was incorporated as a village, and therefore ceased to be part of Lochiel. It was given town status in 1902. Archibald McNab became warden in 1868. He, too, later represented Glengarry in the House of Commcns, and was then appointed Sheriff of the United Counties. He lived in Breadalbane. Duncan A. McDonald was warden in 1880. He was popularly known as Duncan Curly, was Postmaster of Alexandria for over 50 years, and his residence is now the clubrooms of the Knights of Columbus in Alexandria. When Alexandria became an incorporated village in 1883, he was i-he first reeve. The warden for 1889 was Peter Stewart from the Breadalbane area. He followed farming but in the winters he gave singing lessons in the various schoolhouses in the township. He was adept with the violin and also learned to play the organ and the flute. He was Reeve of Lochiel for seven years. In 1913 David Robertson, of Glen Robertson, filled the office of warden; in 1925 Allan Campbell, of Dalkeith, was so honored; in 1943 Dan (Baker') McDonald, of Glen Sandfield, served in that office. For the current year of 1973, the wardenship has again come to Lochiel. Reeve Gerard Massie has the added distinction of being the first French person to become Warden of the United Counties. One of the most important persons in municipal government is the township clerk. Reeves and councils come and go but the clerk stays on. After years of service, he accumulates a tremendous fund of knowledge about municipal affairs and he is absolutely indispensabte to the reeve and members of council. Lochiel, rn the 122 years that it has been a municipality has had only five clerks, and that includes the present cierk, Elmer McNaughton, who assumed office in 1970. The first clerk was Owen Quigley who served from 1851 to 1871. Succeeding clerks are: Dougatd Ban McMillanlST2 to 1896;.Valentine G. Chisholm 1897 to 1948; Archibald J. McDonald 1948 to 1970. Meetings of the township council have been held until recently at sc that the "Capitai" of the township has been at Lochiel. They Corners, Quigley's were held for many years in the hotel owned by Owen Quigley, and even after the hotel ceased operations they took place in the same building until 1932 when a new township hall was built on the site of the old hotel. Pacifique Poirier, of Glen Sandfield, acquired the old hotel and used the lumber to build a cheese factory on rhe, Glen Robertson to Dalhousie road; however, after a few years the factory was destroyed by fire. When the Cement Schoolhouse between Lochiel and Fassifern was no longer required for school purposes in 1969, it was purchased by the township. It now provides good quarters for the clerk and his assistant and there is, in addition, a room which is frequently used by organizations for small public meetings. An examination of the minutes of the early council meetings shows that the members spent most of their time discussing such matters as the appointment of fence viewers, path masters, road commissioners, pound keepers, assessors, tax collectors, the building and repair of roads and bridges, the raising of money for school purposes, and the recommendation of "fit and proper persons" to be granted TIIE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY 15 r tavern licences. There \r,asno welfare program, although occasionally certain indigent people were relieved from paying municipal taxes becauseof their circumstances. In l87l the Lochiel Council did concern itself with the coming Railway Age. The idea of a railway from ottawa io Montreal was being talked about, particularly in Alexandria where the Montreal and city of ottawa Railway company was organized. As the railway would pass through the township, financial help was requested by the promoters,and on October 10th, 1871, the Lochiel Council committed the township to make a grant of $40,000 to the railway. Difficulties were encountered by the railway company and the work was held up for almost 10 years until finally with the assistanceof J. R. Booth, the lumber king of Ottawa, the road was constructed in 1881 and 1882, and was called the Canada Atlantic Railway. It is now part of the CNR system. With the exception of a branch line which runs from Glen Robertson to Hawkesbury,and which was built in 1891, it is the only railway which traverses the Township of Lochiel. At ihe Lochiel council meeting in May, 1881, the councillors feit it necessaryto remind the railway that it had given an undertaking to council that shouldthe $40,000grant be made by Lochiel, the company would provide a permanent station "at a point where the railway would cross Lot 9 in the 2nd Concession of I-ochiel known as Charley Roy's Corners". The reminder in the form of a resolution was forwarded to the raiiway and it must have been effective becausea station was built where the CNR Glen Robertson station now stands. As the site was purchased from Alexander Robertson, the village which grew up around it was called Glen Robertson. Mention has been made that the nucleus of Lochiel was probably the 40 families which settled in the Kirkhill area in 1794. Settlers continued to come in, and the population of the township was reported in 1842 to be 2o47. The needs of th-e_ growing population had to be met in the way of schools, stores and churches. By 1875 there were 17 elementary public schools and two Roman Catholic Separate schools in Lochiel. For schocl administration purposes,the township was divided into 16 school sections,in each cf which there was a public school,with the exception of School Section No. 3, where there were two. At the time this article is being written, all theseschoolshave been ciosedand have been replacedby a modern school at Laggan to which pupils are bussed from the entire trwnship. As a matter of historicalrecord, the locationsof theseone-roomschoolsare as follows: pSS No. lMccrimmon; No. 2-Breadalbane; No. 3 East-spring creek; No. 3 west-pine Grove; No. 4-Dalkeith; No. S-I-ochiel (the cement school); No. 6-Lorne; No. Z -Brodie; No. 8*Glen Sandfield; No. 9-Eigg; No. l0-Alexandria; No. ll-Boyd Schoolon Glen RobertsonRoad; No. l2-Glen Robertson;No. l3-North of Kirkhiil; No. l4-Mccormick; No. l5-I"ochinvar; No. l6*Northeast corner of Lochiel. The two separateschools were at Alexandria and Glen Robertson. When the French population of the township increased, bilingual schools in which French was taught were built in some school sections. Each elementary school section was administered by a board of three truste€schosen by the ratepayers of the section, usually at the annual meeting which was held late in December. Eventually a Township Board of rrustees emerged, replacing the trusteesin each school section. All this was changed in 1969 when-the County Board of Education was set up with jurisdiction over all-Public and Secondary schoolsin the United Counties. A SeparateSchool Board was establishedat the same time to be in charge of all separate schools in Stormont, Dundas and Glengarry. It might be interesting to note that in 1875, the total amount levied in the 16 schoolsectionsto operate all the public schoolsin the township was $2,1g2.16. of cotrrse, this was supplemented by a grant from the provinciaf Department of 16 THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL. SOCIETY Education, bgt the total of the two (local levy and grant) is insignificant in comparison to the amounts that are required today for educational purposes. There was no high school in Lochiel until 1864 when one was opened at Alexandria in co-operationwith the Township of Kenyon. Inasmuch as Alexandria was part of Lochiel until 1883, it is quite correct to say that Lochiel at one time did have a high school within its boundaries. Lochiel has always been a township of farms, but here and there "mall concentrationsof peopleformed in villagesand hamlets. These were the spots where businesswas carried on. The typical hamlet would consist of a store, a post office, a church, a tavern and a shop or mill of some kind. A word or two about the villages of Lochiel might be in order. McCrimmon is in the northwest corner of the township. The focal point of McCrimmon is the store which has been in the same McCrimmon family for at least 67 years. The village was called Kingsburg at one time but the name lvas changedon March lst, 1877, to McCrimmon. It had a post office from 1876 to 1919 but the setting up of a rural mail route eliminated it. It is understood that McCrimmon had at one time a blacksmith shop, a sawmill, an establishmentrun by Angus Fergusonwho made wagons and violins, a licensedhotel operated by Angus Grant, and a Sons of Scotland Hali. Also in the neighborhood was the famous Bullfrog Tavern. Laggan, on Highway 34, had a post office dating from 1848 but it was closed in 1915 rvhen rural mail delivery was instituted. The first postmasterwas Donald Cattanachwho moved from Alexandria to the border of Lochiel in 1832, when he set up a store and called the place Laggan. Cattanach was a man of many parts. He was engaged in the lumber business,he farmed, he was a local magistrate, and he set up Bible classesin his home, which were attendedby people from a wide area. ln 1862 Kirkhill was granted a post office, with James Dunn as the postmaster. It was closedin August, 1916, but it was briefly re-openedfrom February, 1921 to December, 1928 during rvhich period William A. Dewar was the postmaster. As the birthplaceof the Township cf Lochiel, it was known at first as Glenelg because that was the place in Scotland from which the earliest settlers came. In 1820 the settlers began the building of a smatl wooden Presbyterian church. In 1862 the building which now housesthe St. Columba congregationwas undertaken. In 1845 the present Kirkhill United Church was organized and the Free Church building was completedin 1850. Appropriately enough, the name of the settlementwas changed to Kirkhill. The first pcst office in the township was opened in 1821 at Lochiel, Concession5, Lot 25, with John Cameron as postmaster. Although the hamlet was frequently called Quigley's Corners, its official name was Lochiel. Not only was it the first post office in the township, but it was only the second to be established in the whole County of Glengarry, Lancasterhaving been granted one in 1817. As indicatedearlier in this sketch,Lochiel was the locale for the council meetings. Owen Qnigley bought the corner from John Cameron in 1842 and operated a hotel and store for many years. Just west of the Lochiel corner is St. Alexander's Roman Catholic Church which was built in 1851. Glen Sandfield, on Lots 7 and 8, Concession4, was granted a post office in 1858, with Archibald McDonald as postmaster. The present store owned by Mr. and Mrs. Clifford Bickerstaff has a long history. It was built in 1868 by Angus McRae and it has been operating as a store continuously since that year a matter of 104 years. The village was originally called Sandfield in honor of lohn THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY t7 Sandfield Macdonald who was given a Crown grant of land near the village on JLlne l3th, 1853. The name was changedto Glen Sandfieldon July lst, 1874. The United Church in the village was built as a Presbyterianchurch in 1882 or 1883, but the organization of the congregation predated the building by many years. Dalkeith was originally known as Robertson's Mills because William Robertson and his brother had a mill on River de Grasse, and also ran a large general store. In 1867 a post office was opened with William Robertsonas postmaster. It is interesting to note that Dalkeith is one of two post offices still functioning in the township, the other being at Glen Robertson. The Robertson store was purchased by the Roman Catholic parish of Dalkeith in the Thirties and was converted into a church now known as St. Paul's. Previous to a parish being establishedat Dalkeith, the Roman Catholics in that area were served by the priest of Lochiel. While most of the villages of the township have decreasedin size, Dalkeith appearsto have enjoyed considerablegrowth, and it is now one of the most important centres, business-wise, in the township. Brodie, situated halfway between Glen Sandfield and Dalkeith, had a post office from 1884 to 1915 with John A. Smith, and later his son Walter, as postmaster. The Covenanter, or Reformed Presbyterian,church is located at Brodie. One of two Covenanter churchesstill existing in Canada, it was buiit about 1860. The earliestsettlerswere Brodies; hence the origin of the place name. Breadalbaneis the name of a community rather than a village although it had a post office from 1862 to 1916. A map of the township made in 1879 shows that it was located on Lot 13, Concession9, a property owned by John R. Campbell. lJre earliest settlers came from Breadaibane in Scotland, and this community is the site of the only Baptist church in Lochiel Township. In 1835 a chapel was built, but the congregationwas organized in 1816 shortly after the arrival of the first settlers. In 1862 the presentchurch building was begnn. It is jcined with Vankleek Hill in the same pastoral charge, and although the membership has decreasedconsiderably, servicesare held every Sunday. Glen Robertson, formerly known as Charley Roy's Corners, was earlier referred to in connection with the building of the Canada Atlantic Railway. It was for lnany years a busy railway centre as it was the lunction of the Montreal-Ottawa line and the Glen Robertson-Hawkesbury line. It receiveda post office in 1874. Ihe Roman Catholic parish of St. Martin of Tours was establishedin 1895. The present church building on Main Street is the third since the organization of the parish. The first building was destroyedby fire in August, 1916, and the secondone in June, 1954. Both these buildings were on the hill south of the hotel, where the burial ground is. Before 1895, mass was said on occasionin some of the homes in the village. There were two other post offices in the township, one at McCormick in the Third Concession, and one at Lochinvar. The McCormick office functioned from 1887 to 1914 and during that period it had only two postmasters,H. R. McDonald and Mrs. Mary McDonald. The building in which the post office was located is still standing but it has been vacant for many years. The Lochinvar post office was in existencefrom 1868 until 1890, during almost the whole of which time Simon Fraser was postmaster. It is interesting to note that originally the name of the post office was McNab, but this was changedto Lochinvar in December, t87I. REFERENCE|S: Up and Down the clens (Dorothy DumbriUe) Braggart ln My Step (Dorothy DurdbrtUe) StormoDt, DundaF and clengarry - A Htstory (Harkness) The Mcleods of clenga,rry (Mcleod Soetety publtcatton) CanadlaD cazett€er f846 (Wm. H. Smith) Historical Atlas of Stormont, Dundas &nd Glengsrry (Betden) t8 THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY (18?9) The Glengarry Pipe Band '72 Scottish Tour Bv Gnaxr MecGrr-rrvneY The Glengarry Pipe Band must certainly have a prominent piace in the front rank of organizations which have recently spread the name and fame of Glengarry far and wide. Had you been a member of a concert audience on the proper evenings last August in Dundee, or Aberdeen, or Glasgow, or Edinburgh, or a number of other places in Scotland, you would have heard the emcee say "And now the Glengarry Pipe Band will play our very own march 'The Glengarry Pipe Band' written for us by our Chief Instructor, Pipe-Major Iohn Mackenzie and played only by us". A few minutes later you would have heard the same voice say - as eight lovely girts appearedon the stage- "And here are the Glengarry Dancers,who Will ,The Glengarry Reel' accompanied by the full Glengarry Pipe Band". now dance There could be no doubt that Glengarry was heavily involved in the show' Although this article is supposed to be about the band's 1972 Concert it might be worthwhile to go back a bit and see what caused a Scotland, Tour of struggling county pipe band to become one of the best concert bands for many miles in any direction, and one of the very few that can present a full Scottish variety show more or Jessat the droP of a hat. One of the reasons for this success certainly is the ieadership and initiative of the band's president, Mr. Morlin Campbell, who has guided the activities of the band for several years. Morlin decides to retire each year but is not allowed to. In 1967 he called what might be designated as an emergency meeting of people he thought could help, as the band was having troubles. The senior members had mostly retired, and the junior members left for distant places when they finished higlt school, and there was nobody to replace them. Mr. Campbell made two proposals which were to revitalize the band: (1) To set up a piping and drumming school with the best professional instruction available,and (2) to take the band on a playing tour of Scotlandin 1969. The school, now "The Glengarry College of Piping and Drumming", was formed almost immediately, under the chairmanship of John D. Maclennan, ably assistedby his wife Barbara, and was very fortunate in securing as chief instructor, Pipe-Major John Mackenzie. John was with the RCAF at the time but had been Pipe-Major of the Scots Guards and personal piper to the Royal Household before transferring to the Canadian Forces. It was decided that no one would be allowed to play in the band, regardless of experience, if he or she did not regularly attend the school every Saturday (and pay for the privilege) and so the work of rebuilding the band went on with the challenge of having only two years to get ready for the Scottish tour. Besides getting the band ready, there was a considerable financial problem, and money was raised by public subscription, by playing engagements,and filally by chartering a l80-passengerjetliner and selling the seats not needed by the party. Eventually, in August 1969, the band,2l strong, went over and gave 12 concerts in Scotland. In the band there was a fine singer, Elizabeth Maclennan, who was also the pipe-major, a concert pianist, a violinist, two step-dancersand two Highland dancers, so a variety programme was presented,and very well received, although some of the players were very busy. After settling down in the fall, plans had to be made for the future. The band got a new pipe-major in the person of David Danskin, a dedicated piper, THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY t9 also from the RCAF Band, and also, like John Mackenzie, an Edinburgh boy' These two experts are still the piping instructors of the school, which keeps a membership of about 50 students. Besides this, P/M Mackenzie teaches piping in the three Glengarry high schools and in Laggan Public School, so the band and school have certainly revived the art of piping in Glengarry. After a period of re-organization, induction of new members, learning pew tunes. and much practice, it was decided that the band would again tour Scotland in August, 1972, but on a more ambitious scale. It was also decided that another public subscription should not be requestedbut that the band would raise the necessary funds by its own efforts. As the budget was approximately$12,000 there was a real challenge here. However, to spend a moment on financial matters, the money was raised. The band gave concerts, acceptedengagementsfrom football gamesin Montreal to Sunday afternoon concerts in Crysler Park, besidessponsoring professional shows such as Alec Finlay's "Breath of Scotland" and the Celts, an Ottawa singing and music team. The biggest factor, though, was the chartering of two jetliners, one to London and one to Prestwick, with a total of 324 seats, and the arrangement of bus tours overseasfor those who wished them. This made the bank account secure and in fact the band astonishedthe hosts-to-bein Scotland by prepaying the charges for quarters, the first time, they said, this had ever been done. To spend a moment or two on the entertainment part of the project, it was decided to fcrm a concert party and give a really professional show, so "The Glengarry Pipe Band Concert Party" was born. The main element, of course, was the band, now up to a playing strength of 30, mostly teenagelads and lassies,plus a few mature men, but all trained to play exactly the same. Mrs. Rae MacCulloch was asked if she would bring eight of her best dancers along, and these girls were inrmediately christened "The Glengarry Dancers". Actually, l0 girls were taken over as it was found that l0 were needed to keep eight dancing. Some of the stageswere quite springy and in some places the girls had to dance on the grass, not always even, so the occasional ankle needed a rest. Although all these girls were experts at the traditional Highland dances,all dancesperformed on this tour were designedby Mrs. MacCulloch and done only by her dancers. Therefore, the Scottish audiences saw dances they had never seen before. Also, instead of the more usual one or two dancers dancing to the music of a lone piper, they saw eight professional calibre dancers performing to the music of the whole band. The exception was their very oopular step-dance,done to an accordion, piano and drum, The vocal department next received attention and two very fine singers agreed to come along. One, Robin Upton, a former Lancaster boy, is a very pleasing entertainer, combining songs and nonsense,while the other, Garry Matthews, who is a piper and drummer with the Cameron Highlanders, is also a very skilled singer. Ihe lads, with their different styles of singing, had one thing in common. They didn't march up to the mike, sing their songs, and march away. They both had the knack of chatting a bit first and sort of establishing a friendly feeling with the audience, which helped immensely. They sang solos and duets, and mixed in a few Canadian songs with the Scottish ones. They also kept dancers Linda and Brenda Denovan busy as their piano accompanists. After the first try-out of the new programnre at an outdoor concert, it was found that both the band and the dancers didn't have quite enough time between appearances,the band for tuning and the dancers for changing costumes. Therefore, Carmel McDonald, a student nurse and one of the well-known McDonald Sisters,was invited to join the party with her accordion. This solved the problem. Carmel not 20 THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY only played solo appearances,but accompanied the step-dance,took part in some of the production numbers, and in a couple of places where no piano was provided, accompanied the singers. Besides her skill as a musician, her willingness to help in any way possible made her a very popular member of the cast. The Concert Party was now complete, and with the emcee, dancing instructress,and president, numbered 46. Imagine a country pipe band with the gall to take a party of this size to Scotland to present Scottish culture. Now, having got the personnel together, let us have a look at the show to be presented. This had to be somethingspecial,and it was, as it was built around several combination or "production" numbers. For instance, every time the band marched in, at some point before they marched off, the dancers appearedand they did a number together. One dance used up four pipe tunes, of increasing tempo. The band played 29 tunes in all, but mcstly in sets of three or four tunes, changing very skillfully. One special number was "The Barren Rocks of Aden", witn RoUin singing it with great spirit (accompanied by Brenda), followed by the band picking it up as he finished. Another was "Morag of Dunvegan" as it was never done before. First, Pipe Major Mackenziemarchedin from the side playing it as a pipe solo. Then, as the pipe sound died away, Robin and Garry sang it, versesin English, chorusesin Gaelic, and this was somethingto hear. As they finished, the band picked it up and played it through - a very touching rendition. Then the finale included the whole company. The band played "I\{acKay's Polka" - so did Carmel. The two lads sang "Let's Have a Ceiiidh" (sarne tune) and the girls did two different dances at the same time - fow of them, in kilts, doing a reel, and four in their striking red and white costumes,doing a stepdance. One can only say that this number was spectacular. And now, and about time, you say, Iet us get on with the actual tour. However, it did seem worthwhile to tell you something about the preliminaries to such an ambitious undertaking. I think that from here on, I will write in the First Person, but first person plural, as it will be more natural than saying "they" when I was right in the middle of them. And the word "we" is not the editorial "we". which I detest. but "We - The Glengarry Pipe Band Concert Party". So, according to plan, the party bcarded our Boeing 707 at Dorval on the evening of Saturday, August 12th, where with our paying guests we made up a load of 174 passengers. We landed at Prestwick next morning, in bright, sunny weather, and found our two busseswaiting, a large one for the concert party and a smaller one for what we called "attached personnel", husbands,wives, parents,etc., oi performers. This party was to iravel and live with the concert party for the tour. At the wheel of our own bus, by specialrequest,was driver Bill Clapperton,who had been our driver in 1969 and was greeted as an old friend. The party was taken to Wolfson Hall for a much-needed rest, as our night had sort of disappeared in the S-hour time difference. Wolfson Hall is a student residence of Glasgow University, the type of quarters used in all our stops and ideal for the purpose. On Monday, Pipe-Major Danskin took all the girl band members to Edinburgh to get their new uniforms, which had been ordered months before and were waiting for them. Tuesday was a big day, being the day of our first concert, and that in Scotland's largest city. However, before the concert there was a civic reception by the Lord Provost, in the council chambers,a suite of very beautiful and elegant rooms. 'Ihis was held at 1l:30 a.m. and after everyonehad a bit of time to stroll around and enjoy the coffee and cakes provided, the Lord Provost entered and made a very kind and graceful addressof welcome. He then presentedMr. Campbell with a large TIIE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY 2r plaque of the city of Glasgow crest, and Piper Norman Macleod returned the courtesy by presenting him with a set of cuffJinks from the Mayor of Cornwall. His Worship then went around the party, shaking hands with every member and he had the happy faculty of being able to put everyone at ease as he spoke to them. The pipe-major started getting his pipers outside, as they had to tune up and it was getting close to concert time. Luckily, the concert was scheduled for George Square, right in front of the council chamber. Barriers were in place to keep the centre of the square clear for us, and there was a huge crowd behind them, on all sides. The only problem here was that the dancers had to do their reels on the pavement, which was hard on their shoes,but the concert was a great success,in the Canadian-type summer afternoon. So there was the ice broken, so to speak, with everybody happy and the tension somewhateased. The next engagement,next day, was in Kingussie, a town about 50 miles south of Inverness,and in which we had given two shows in 1969. This entailed a lovely bus tour through some very scenic country and when we arrived, we found that our hosts had arranged a "high tea" or supPer in one of the hotels, an unexpected courtesy. We also found the town plastered with large colored posters, advertising "The World Famous Glengarry Pipe Band, Singers and Dancers" which was a wonderful welcome. While we were eating it started to rain, so we couldn't do our outdoor show as planned. However, a hall was found for us, and when we asked how the people would know where to find us, we were told that they had a "grapevine" and they sure had. Before we had the hall ready - PA system,piano, chairs,€tc. the place was bulging and the pipe-major had to reduce the band by about a third to get them in. We shortened the concert slightly, something we had arranged to do without disturbing the balance of the programme, and had a very happy evening, with an appreciative audience. 'fhen back to the bussesfor the fairly long ride to Dundee, where Chalmers Hall was to be "home" for the next six days. Next day, Thursday, was a day of rest or recreation and we had a chance to be tourists. On Friday we were due for an afternoon concert in Aberdeen, so up the coast road we went, enjoying the highlands on one side and the sea oo the other. When we got to Union Terrace Park, we found them ready for us, with a good covered stage and a tent as change room for the dancers. There was a large paved area in front of the stage, and besidesbeing perfect for the band, the girls did some of their dances on it. It rained a bit during the show, but we just moved the band onto the stage and kept going. Luckily, the rain lasted only a few minutes and didn't spoil the show. After the show, we were taken to a very fine restaurant, on the seashore,where we were all presenled to a deputy-provost, and enjoyed another civic reception in the form of a dinner. One of the officials asked if we had a Miss McKay with us, as there was some family connection, so Keitha, one of our dancers, was escortedto the head table, with Heather MacCulloch for company, which improved the appearanceof the head table no end. After dinner and a period of relaxation on the beach, we went back to Dundee. This was to be a busy weekend, with conoerts at Dumferline on Saturday and Dundee on Sunday. When we got to Dumferline the next afternoon, we found the finest arrangementswe had yet seen. Dumferline \ryasthe bfuthplace of Andrew Carnegie, who later became very wealthy in the U.S. but never forgot his hometown, and his trust funds financed the facilities we were to use. We found a huge building in a lovely park, with restaurants, halls, etc., built in. There was a fine covered stage facing outwards toward an outdoor theatre, and there were dressing rooms at each end of the stage. Should the weather turn bad, all we would have to do would be to ,, THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY go through a door at the back of the stage, to find ourselves in the same type of stage facing a large hall, and ask the audience to come in. However. it was a fine day and we had a good audience and a successful show. Dumferline fed us well, afterwards, and we returned to Dundee with nothing to do till next afternoon. Sunday, luckily, was another fine day and 3 p.m. found us in Camperdown Park, where we had also played in 1969. However, facilities had been improved since then and we had another good crowd. After the show we enjoyed the hospitality of Dundee at high tea, then back to Chalmers Hall. Then came the longest rest we had * nothing to do for two days except to rnove to Pollock Hall, Edinburgh, where we had also lived in 1969. The next show was at Dalkeith on Wednesday afternoon, and as usual, Dalkeith pulled out all the stops in welcoming us. There was a civic reception at 2:3O p.m. in the council chambers, at rvhich we were formally, but in very friendly fashion, greeted by town officials. The show was at 3:00 p.m. in Jarnac Square, right in front of the chambers, and the square was so crowded that the band had a bit of difficulty in manoeuvring. Flowever, it was such a friendly and happy crowd that nobody minded, and I think we enjoyed the show as much as the audience did. Since many of us live in or near Dalkeith, Canada, the people of Dalkeith, Scotland, can't be too kind to us. Immediately after the show, we were guests at tea, and we thought that was that, but we were told that there was to be a full-fledged civic dinner and ceilidh at a nearby hotel in the evening. This was an extremely happy affair, and after an excellent dinner, both our and their singers and musicians entertained us. The party finally ended after midnight and Dalkeith gets more than full marks for hospitality. After a day of rest on Thursday, although Princes Street seemed full of Glengarrians, our next show was Friday evening in the Princes Street Gardens, and we considered it a great honor to play in the Gardens during the Festival. There is a fine outdoor theatre there. The huge covered stage is part of a building and has a large paved area in front of it (normally used for outdoor dances) but ideal for the pipe band to play on. There was a large number of Glengarrians in the audience and it must have been quite a thrill to see and hear their own band marching and playing in this splendid setting in the heart of Scotland's capital. Pipe-Major Danskin go1 a special welcome when it was announced that he was an Edinburgh boy, and his parents and parents-in-law were proud spectators in the front row. With the facilities provided, the concert couldn't be anything but successful, and we were later told by one of the officials that it was the best show presented there till that date - heady praise indeed. Saturday was a free day, but we all attended the Military Tattoo at ihe Castle, and as usual, thoroughly enjoyed this colorful spectacle. Sunday was a busy day as we had a concert at Falkirk at 2:3O p.m. and a partial one at Dunblane in the evening. It was another fine, sunny day, and at Falkirk we had a crowd of 1,400, the oirly time we got an actual count. The stage was in front of an old mansion in a park, and wasn't large enough for dancing so the girls did their reels on the grass. It was noticed here that we had eight girls dancing and two with bandaged ankles sitting beside the stage, proving the necessity of spare dancers. Linda Denovan also had a bandaged foot but she had a solo dance and insisted on doing it regardless and gave her usual professional performance. Later, we went to Dunblane where there was a dinner and a sort of informal concert, with our band and dancers sharing the evening with local performers. Altogether, it was an interesting and satisfying day. On Monday evening, the band and dancers shared a programme with TrrE GLENGARRY HISToRICAL SocIETY 23 the regimental band of the lst Queens Dragoon Guards, once again in the Gardens' previously The Girards band used the stage while our people did their stuff on the area, mentioned, in front of the stige. The band made three appearancesand the dancers two, a reel and a step-dance. Both groups Put on splendid performances and when they marched out foi the last time, the Dragoon Guards played "The Maple Leaf', a very gracious comPliment. The next night, Tuesday, we were due in Musselburgh and this rvas our only disappointment of thi tour, but not through any fault of the good people of the to*n. Tiriy had been given very short notice and no information re the show, so all we had was a small bandstand with a PA system, in a park. As it was getting near dusk and there were no lights, we cut the show to an hour and got along very well' The audience was very kind, but sorry they weren't given time to prepare a welcome. The next, and last, thO* *ut Wednesday afternoon, at Dunbar where we again had perfect weather and a good crowd. Then we were able to rest, or whatever, till Saturday when we boarded our trusty 707 for home. So ended the 1972 scottish Tour of the Glengarry Pipe Band concert Party, and if I may be permitted a closing personal comment, it is that Glengarry may well-be proud of ihose-who carried its name through the Highlands and Lowlands of Auld Scotia n 1972. 24 THE GLENGARRY HISTORIC.{L SOCIETY j The King's Road Story Bv Ewem Ross A good map, with contour lines, will show us why this road has existed from the very beginning of white settlement and probably before. It follows a high, stony ridge which is almost continuous from where it leaves the St. Lawrence River at Coteau du Lac to where it strikes it again some miles west of Cornwall. This road has several local names in its length but the King's Road part of it with which we are concerned, runs east from Martintown through St. Raphaels and North Lancaster to the Quebec border at Bridge End, crossing almost all of Charlottenburgh Township and all of Lancaster Township. In Charlottenburgh, it is wholly a given road as in no place does it coincide with a legal concessionroad. Just west of North Lancaster Village in Lancaster Township, it coincides with the concessionroad between Concessions5 anci 6 for the last seven miles of its 16.5-mile length. This route almost certainly began as an Indian trail, as trails leading northwest from Martintown to the Ottawa River have been traced. and to the southeast, it strikes the St. Lawrence where the river narrows at the east end of Lake St. Francis and connectswith quite a passableroute, via the Salmon River to the Mohawk Iroquois country. The southern part of Lancaster Township was an Valley impassable swamp till long after pioneer days were over; the southern part of Charlottenburghwas not much better though the swamp was not continuous. The trail which became the "King's Road" was marked out by people who had a goocl eye for country. It crossesseveral creeks, just far enough from the swamps in which they rise, to give good footing in all seasons. Where it crossesthe Raisin and Beaudette rivers, they are both narrow and fordable with good banks, which made for easy bridging later on; no mud or swamp. The first white settlers in the area were United Empire Loyalists of Johnson's Corps in 1784, and they were settled on land along the St. Lawrence and Raisin rivers. Many of those who settled in LancasterTownship found it impossible to make a living in the swamps there and moved west to the highlands, north of the Raisin River where the trail that was to become the King's Road ran through their property. (This statement can be supported by documentary evidence in the form of a petition by the inhabitants of Lancaster Township dated March 2lst, 1790, and by land transactionsin my own family.) In 1786, a direct migration of 500 families lrom Knoydart, Scotland, under the leadership of a priest, Alexander MacDonell (Scotus) arrived in Glengarry. Acting no doubt on the advice of the already-settled Loyalists, they settled around the present St. Raphaels, with the trail that was to become the King's Road bisecting their settlement. Further migrations of MacDonalds and MacDonells swelled the St. Raphaelssettlementin1792, 1803 and 1804. The migrationsof 1803 and 1804 were led by another Rev. Alexander MacDonell, who was to become the first Roman Catholic Bishop of Upper Canada. At St. Raphaels, he built the first seminary in Upper Canada and a fine stone church which burned in 1970. Just west of St. Raphaels, in a farmhouse built by one of the men from Knoydart, a boy was born in 1812 who was later Prime Minister of Canada and the first Premier of Ontario. Iohn Sandfield Macdonald. TIIE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL, SOCIETY 2S One of the settlers' most urgent needs was accessto a grist mill. Sir John Johnson built one at Williamstown in 1792 (see Chewitt's survey of mills) which could be reached by going west from St. Raphaels a mile-and-a-half on the King's Road, and then south for five miles on a road through Sir John lohnson's land grant (still known locally as "The Johnson Road") but swamps made the Johnson Road almost entirely a winter road. In 1801 Malcolm McMartin built mills on the Raisin River where the King's Road trail crossed the river, and the King's Road became a well-used trail - an all-weather route to grist and woollen mills and an ashery. East from St. Raphaels the road provided an all-weather route to the St. Lawrence and Montreal, the nearestplace where there was a market for the settlers' bits of produce and the nearest place they could buy those few things they could neither make nor produce for themselves. In Montreal, too, were their nearest doctors and mail service. As of now, I have no proof that Lt. Governor Simcoe's determination to open key roads in Upper Canada during his term of office, 1792-1796,had any direct bearing on the King's Road, but there are indications that there was a connection. One is the name, "King's Road", which persisted,despite it later being officially dubbed "Dundas Street". (SeeRottenburg'smap of 1850.) Another is the fact that the speakerof the first parliament of Upper Canada was one of the members for Glengarry, Col. John MacDoneil (Aberchalder). The other one was his brother, Hugh MacDonell. No doubt they would want to show the rest of the province an exampleof how Simcoe'sideas should be carried out, but documentary proof is lacking. Be that as it may, during the war of 1812, official action was taken to improve the King's Road. On June 15th, 1813, Rev. Alexander MacDonell was appointed chairman of a commission to open a road between Upper and Lower Canada. MacDoneil and his two fellow commissioners. Alexander MacMillan and Allan MacDonell, were given 400 pounds to get the job done. It was not only an all-weatherroute but well back from the U.S. boundary and therefore safe for military transport. on the King's Road at Martintown the bridge was destroyed behind a wagon train of ail sorts of valuables and military stores fleeing from General Wilkinson'sarmy on November l1th, 1813, and canon were planted to cover the crossing. The American defeat at the battles of Hoople's creek and Crysler's Farm made this gesture unnecessary,but neverthelessthe King's Road saw almost the only military action in Glengarry during the war of 1812. For more than the next 100 years, the King's Road remained the main east-westroad across Glengarry, giving accessto cornwall to the west, and Montreal to the east. The present Highway No. 2 was only passableunder ideal conditions, as may be judged from the Ontario Motor League official guide for 1912, which tells motorists going to Montreal from cornwall to put their cars on a boat. (pps. 40 and 41, 64.4 and 114.2.) Stagecoachesran on the King's Road and freight moved east and west on it. Taverns, inns and hotels (a story in themselves)sprang into being to service rnan and beast. when the st. Lawrence canals were opened in 1834, Lancaster becamean important shipping and receiving pcrt, and a military road (present Highway lo. 34) was surveyed in 1840 to connect Lancaster, a river port well away from the U.S. border with the Ottawa River. Where this military road crossedthe King's Road, there was a well-known hotel, "The Brown House", by which name this iorner is known to this day, though the hotel is long gone. The King's Road was taken over by the counties in the late 1920's or early 30's, and was given a cold mix asphalt topping, one of the first roads in the 26 THE GLENGARRv lrrsroRrcAl socrETy I J rI I I i i I area to get such treatment. Its importance as an east-west connecting link has not diminished with the years but has increased. As a consequence,in 1972 it was colnpletely rebuilt and widened, with provincial assistance. t From a probable Indian trail through the days of pioneer settlement in the 1790's, as a military link during the war of 1g12, ur-u.oud which connected pioneer settlements which became prosperous villages, the King's Road was, and is, vital to the people of the area. tts t. tI t I TIIE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY 27 Documents and Sourcesof Information on GlengarrY HistorY Bv RBv. Doucr-es G. MacKev The early history of Glengarry County has been told many times, and is. as a result, well known by many people. But there are a number of sources of information that can provide details that may have been forgotten and that throw new light on the early settlementsof this area. THE HALDIMAND PAPERS Contained in the Canadian Archives in Ottawa, and available on microfilm, the Haldimand Papers provide a veritable mine of information on the establishing of settlementsof Loyalists in 1783-1784. These representall the papers preserved by Governor Haldimand and his staff in the years when Ontario was being carved out oi the wilderness. There are letters from and to officers of the Royal Regiment of New York, from the years 1776-1.783;letters from officials appointed by the Loyalists; returns and accounts pertaining to various matters; master rolls, accounts, etc', relating to the Corps of Royal Americans; and returns of incorporated Loyalists wishing to settle in Canada in 1784. 1. A most interesting collection of some of the papers may be found in THE SETTLEMENT OF THE UNITED EMPIR.E LOYALISTS ON THE UPPER sT. LAWRENCE AND BAY OF QUINTE IN 1784, transcribed and edited by E. A. Cruikshank. Toronto, Ontario Historical Society, 1934. Cruikshank's collection documents the immense tasks involved in exploring and surveying the areas to be settled, organizing temporary domiciles fcr the Loyalists in the Montreal area, planning where the new farm sites should be, and figuring out who should go where. Through the records glimpses are caught of the excitement of the men exploring the new land, the frustration and anger of Loyalists who had to put up with primitive and backward conditions that many of them were not used to, and the fairness of a governor Who was making an honest attempt to administer the entire situation fairly. To give an example, Cruikshank includes an anonymous rePort on the exploration of the country between the seigneury of M. de Longeuil and Isle aux Gallops. Grammar is not always accurate, but of the present day Lancaster\\/iliiamstown area we read: "From Point Mouille one mile and a half up the lake to a Creek which empties itself into a small bay, the land is drowned and partly hemlock and cedar swamp. The beginning of the good land from the last mentioned creek for five miles up the lake to the River au Raisin, the land is very good for two miles back, a few swamps excepted, about three miles . . . The River au Raisin falls into the lake opposite to a very small island, 7 miles W. of Point Mouille. We sailed up said river for five miles its course so far being N.W. from thence for three miles further up its course is N. - the breadth of the river is very equal, being about 80 ft. and from 10 to 8 ft. deep, except six shoals which are all capable of carrying a loaded batteau with a few loose stones being removed . . . within a hundred yards of the uppermost shoal is a fall of five feet eight inches. A good situation for a mill on each side and plenty of water . Two miles north east of the said falls grows the largest cedar I ever saw ." 28 THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY Included are many letters from Sir John Johnson to the governor, describing such things as raiding parties into New York during the lVar of Revolution, allotment of land in the new settlements,and other matters concerning problems of the day. 2. NORTH CAROLINA SOURCES Some of the early settlers in Glengarry came from the Cumberland County area of North Carolina. Among them was John Bethune, the first Presbyterian rninister in Glengarry. These Loyalists are remembered there, and Scottish traditions, so much a part of this area, are also well-remembered by descendantsof Scots emigrants who chose to settle in that part of the country. Authorities on the Scottish settlementsin North Carolina include Rev. James MacKenzie, Robbins, North Carolina; Mr. Malcolm Fowler, Liliington, NC; and Mr. R. E. Wicker, Pinehurst,NC. Mr. MacKenzie has written articles on John Bethune, the history of Barbeque Church (an original Scottish church), and a history of John MacRae, a well-known Gaelic poet who lived in North Carolina at the time o{ the Revolution. The Rev. Harold J. Dudley, D.D., has written an article on Presbyterianismin Eastern North Carolina. All thesesourcesprovide detail on the lives of Scottish emigrants to North America. 3. LOCAL RECORDS St. Andrew's United Church in Williamstown has in its possessionphoto copies and typewritten copies of the first Registersof John Bethune. While these are ollen consulted for genealogicalpurposes,they are seldom used as a source for tracing the early history of the area. Yet they have much to add. The first volume, for example, covers the years 1779 to 7797. Occupations of fathers, and places of residence,are included in the entries, and these reflect, at the beginning, a community involved in war and, at the end, a community settling down into peace. This first volume is probably a record of church life in Montreal, taken by John Bethune to Williamstown after his ministry in St. Gabriel Church. Thus the year 1779 includes family sacramentsfor a sergeant,corporal, three privates, drum major, and the widow of a soldier "late of Col. Butler's Rangers". The year 1787 refers to a merchant,a tailor, a shoemaker,a minister, an attorney at law, a journeymanshoemaker,a dancing rnaster, and an innkeeper. Places of residenceindicate that people came from a very wide area: the names Michelmackinac and Temiscaming are found with the nearerlocated MississquoiBay, Berthier, Sorel and Charlottenburgh. 4, PUBLICATIONS CAMPBELL, R. - History of the St. Gabriel Street Church Drysdale, Montreal, 1887 WARD, C. - The War of the Revolution MacMillan, NY, 1952 CENTENARY CELEBRATION - St. Andrew's Church, Williamstown Standard, Cornwall, 1916 RYERSON, E. - The Loyalists of America and Their Times Briggs, Toronto, 1880 THE GLENGARRY HISTORICAL SOCIETY 29
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