BRIDAL LINGERIE Intimate wear for Indian Bride DISSERTATION

Transcription

BRIDAL LINGERIE
Intimate wear for Indian Bride
DISSERTATION REPORT
Submitted By
DHARA GADHVI
In partial fulfilment of the requirements for the
degree
of
MASTER OF DESIGN
DEPARTMENT OF DESIGN SPACE
BATCH 2013-15
At
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY
MUMBAI
Faculty Guide
Mr Dhanraj
Bridal Lingerie
By
Dhara Gadhvi
Submitted to NIFT in partial fulfillment
of the requirements for the degree of
Master of Design
Department of Design Space
Faculty
Guide:........................................
Advisors (if any):........................................
© 2013 National Institute of Fashion Technology
I
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLGY MUMBAI
Bridal Lingerie
by Dhara Gadhvi
M. DES.
Batch
Submitted by Ms Dhara Gadhvi to NIFT in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the
degree of Master of Design of the National Institute of Fashion Technology at Mumbai
and hereby certify that in the judgment of the following members of jury it is worth of
acceptance: Name
Institute/ Organization -
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Signature & Date
Remarks regarding fulfilling further requirements, if any: -
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Signature of CC - II
Design Space Date:
Abstract
The Indian woman of today is bolder when it comes to aspirations. She is now choosy
and has started giving importance to lingerie. This has been fostered by the changing
social structure. The Indian society is in the midst of a makeover. The western influence
is shaping today’s modern women. More and more women are now working, which has
increased their disposable income. Women are now not hesitant to spend on lingerie that
is comfortable and appealing. This change has also been bolstered by the changing dress
codes. The dress codes demand women to select lingerie that shapes their look, which essentially then boosts their confidence. There is special lingerie for every occasion and for
different types of outfit.
However, amidst this growth in Indian lingerie industry, there is one section or segment
that has been neglected. It is the section of bridal intimate lingerie. In fact, the research
shows that there is no segment called bridal lingerie available in Indian retail lingerie.
Study about the history of lingerie through secondary research clearly directs that lingerie has molded female bodies into variety of shapes, sometimes drawing attention to
bust, other periods to hips or waist and eroticism and lingerie has deep connections since
centuries
Bridal intimate lingerie is lingerie that is sensuous and is meant for special occasions like
wedding nights or similarly seductive situation. Giving all together a new segment of
lingerie to Indian women, who had no option to have sensuous as well as modest lingerie
with Indian elements for their wedding night.
Keywords: - Bridal Lingerie, sensuality, culture, Indian market
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Acknowledgement
I wish to thank all those who helped me. I would like to thank my mentor Mr Dhanraj
without whom, I could not have completed this project. I would also like to thank the
people who participated in the interview and helped me gain a better insight into my
research.
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Content
Chapter No.
Title
Page No.
Chapter-1
Introduction
1.1 Objective
1.2 Significance
1.3 Limitations
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Chapter-2
Research Design and Methodology
12
Chapter-3
Review of Literature
3.1 Meaning of Lingerie
3.2 Different Types of Lingerie
3.3 Factors shaping lingerie industry
3.4 Porter’s 5 forces
3.5 Market segment of Indian Lingerie Industry
3.6 The History of Lingerie
3.7 Indian History of Lingerie
3.8 Eroticism and Lingerie
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Chapter-4
Primary Research
4.1 Survey
4.2Interview
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Chapter-5
Result and Analysis
5.1 Design Process
5.2 Design Explorations
5.3 Final Desing
5.4 Conclusion
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Glossary
Annexure
Bibliography
Introduction
Chapter-1
The Indian lingerie industry, at the moment, is seeing a growth that is unparalleled. It has
undergone a transformational change in the past few years due to availability of brands,
changing technology, changing consumer behaviour and increased awareness. The Indian
lingerie market is growing at a high rate of 24% and is sized at Rs. 56.28 bn. In fact, as
will be seen later, a few segments within the industry are growing at staggering rates of
over 50%.
Lingerie is one of the most understated parts of a woman’s attire. If chosen and worn
properly, lingerie can bring out a look in her that she deserves. The Indian woman of today is bolder when it comes to aspirations. She is now choosy and has started giving importance to lingerie. This has been fostered by the changing social structure. The Indian
society is in the midst of a makeover. The western influence is shaping today’s modern
women. More and more women are now working, which has increased their disposable
income. Women are now not hesitant to spend on lingerie that is comfortable and appealing. This change has also been bolstered by the changing dress codes. The dress codes
demand women to select lingerie that shapes their look, which essentially then boosts
their confidence.
However, amidst this growth, there is one section or segment that has been neglected. It
is the section of bridal lingerie. In fact, the research shows that there is no segment called
bridal lingerie available in Indian retail lingerie.
Bridal lingerie is lingerie that is sensuous and is meant for special occasions like weddings, anniversaries, birthdays etc., but is not limited to these occasions and can be used
in daily life. Whatever be the reason, women of today are increasingly aware of the concept of bridal lingerie, which is very prevalent in the west, but have not been given the
required avenues in the Indian retail space. Most of the Indian women have aspirations to
look their best for the mentioned occasions and if the market can’t provide them with the
required products, then it is a failure of the lingerie industry.
Also, among women, extreme ignorance prevails when they make their lingerie decisions. Being ignorant, most of the women don’t know their correct sizes and buy lingerie
that is uncomfortable and unappealing. In fact the ignorance is widespread across the
globe. As per a research, 80% of the women in USA wear the wrong bra size while for
India, the numbers stand at a disappointing 90%. These are huge numbers and, as will be
explained later, the repercussions of this ignorance could be detrimental.
So, bearing this in mind, the report details out the proposition to address the needs mentioned.
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1.1 Objective
• To understand and study the Indian Lingerie market.
• To identify the needs of today’s women.
• To establish a dedicated bridal lingerie segment in the Indian lingerie space.
1.2 Significance
There is no such segment in Indian Lingerie market which designs lingerie especially for
Indian Bride. Indian brides have specific needs which are not available in market. Indian wedding is all about color and glitter and traditions, but these aspects are missing in
bridal lingerie.
1.3 Limitation
It is limited to particular segment, It will be occasional wear.
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Research Design and Methodology
Chapter-2
The present study documents the Indian lingerie market, products category
available in the market, history of Lingerie in Indian and around the world
major changes that took place in lingerie designs. Comparison between the
western lingerie designs and Indian lingerie designs for special occasion
like wedding. The survey is done to know the need of today’s Indian women
in the mentioned segment and introduce a new market segment of intimate
bridal lingerie in Indian market.
The research is divided into three phases.
2.1 Phase-1
Secondary Research
Secondary research was done through the review of literature from different
sources like articles, books, blogs, videos, etc. This was done to understand
the historical backgroung, significance and evolution of lingerie.
2.2 Phase-2
Primary Research
Women from age group of 20 to 35 were interviewed. Questionnaire was
prepared and online survey was done to know and understand the preferences and opinion regarding lingerie and intimate bridal lingerie.
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Chapter-3
Review of Literature
3.1 Meaning of Lingerie
Lingerie is women’s undergarment and may imply their being fashionable and alluring.
Lingerie is made using flexible, stretchy, sheer, or decorative materials like Lycra, nylon,
satin, silk, lace and sheer fabric.
The word lingerie derives from the French word linge , meaning ‘linen’. So faire le linge
comes to mean “do the laundry”. In French the word lingerie applies to all undergarments
for either gender. In English it means women’s underwear or nightclothes usage which
visually appealing or even erotic clothing.
The concept of lingerie as a visually appealing undergarment was developed during the
late nineteenth century. Lady Duff-Gordon of Lucile was a pioneer in developing lingerie
that freed women from more restrictive corsets. Through the first half of the 20th century,
women wore underwear for three primary reasons: to alter their outward shape (first with
corset and later with girdles or bras), for hygienic reasons, or for modesty. Before the
invention of crinoline, women’s underwear was often very large and bulky. During the
late 19th century, corsets became smaller, less bulky and constricting, and were gradually supplanted by the brassiere, first patented in the 20th century by Mary Phelps Jacob.
When the First World War broke out, women found themselves filling in men’s work
roles, creating a demand for more practical undergarments. Manufacturers began to use
lighter and more breathable fabrics.
As the 20th century progressed, underwear became smaller and more form fitting. In
the 1960s, lingerie manufacturers such as Frederick’s of Hollywood begin to glamorize
lingerie. The lingerie industry expanded in the 21st century with designs that doubled as
outerwear. The French refer to this as ‘dessous-dessus’ which basically means innerwear
as outerwear.
3.2 Different Types of Lingerie
Camisole
This is a short, loose fitting top that has a length that goes
to the waist. It can be worn like a slip underneath a wool
sweater, beneath an open jacket, or just as it is with a pair
of matching panties.
Figure-1
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Chemises
These are short nightgowns that are usually made out of a
fairly light material, something frilly and fun.
Figure-2
Baby Doll
This is one of the hot lingerie that is actually a really short
nightgown that flirts at the top of the hip. It begins with
a clasp or a knot at the bust, and the rest of it floats away
from the body. Usually, a baby doll is sold with a panty type
bottom.
Figure-3
Teddy
A teddy is similar to a one-piece bathing suit. It is a combination of underwear and a short top.
Figure-4
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Bustier
These are well fitting tops that are fastened at the back and
accentuate the bust.
Figure-5
Corsets
This is similar to a bustier but is tighter and stronger. It has
a boning that goes over the bodice and is laced or hooked
in the back. Corsets usually give the wearer an hourglass
figure, but they can also be laced loosely and worn as a
regular top.
Figure-6
Kimonos
These are robes that are usually worn over revealing types
of lingerie. A kimono is used to make the girl feel more
comfortable, when she’s walking around with hardly anything on and would want something to cover herself up.
Figure-7
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Thongs
Anyone who has watched a teen singer in her music video
knows what a thong is. A thong is similar to a G-String but
it has a little more fabric going up the back, unlike a GString, which has just that, a string.
Figure-8
Boy Shorts
These are tiny shorts that women wear as underwear. They
are usually lacy and very cute. If you want to get turned on
when your girlfriend wears her lingerie, this would definitely top the list, in a sweet and racy kinda way
Figure-9
Body stocking
The first body stocking recorded to be worn was in the late
1800’s. It is tightly fitted hosiery that covers the whole
body. Designs and patterns can vary from simple large
holes to intricate patterns.
Figure-10
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3.3 Factors shaping Lingerie Industry
The Indian lingerie market, though growing at a tremendous pace, has its gaps. It is at the
brink of being the next big thing. According to Mr Nischal Puri, a veteran in the lingerie
industry and CEO of Brandis India, the key factors that are going to shape the Indian
lingerie industry are:
Consumers have shifted in 3 predominant ways:
There has been reduced price sensitivity. The women of today emphasize more on comfort and quality. Price has taken a back seat in the minds of women. Women are more
appreciative and responsive to branding. Earlier, women were ignorant to brands, but
now due to the arrival of international brands and increased awareness, brand names are
now gaining importance. Possibly, the concept of brand equity is now shaping the lingerie
industry. Lingerie has now become brand and has slipped into the luxury bracket.
Women are showing readiness to experiment with new innovative styles and designs.
They are more open to the new products that are on offer. So, if new innovative products
are made available, women would not hesitate to try it out. Also, according to Crisil research, working women form 15% of the total urban population, which is expected to rise
to 20% by 2020. So, the retail spends are going to increase because there is a lot of difference in the way a working woman shops and a non-working woman shops. A working
woman’s propensity to spend is 1.3 times greater than that of a non-working woman.
Organized retail:
Retail has become more organized and is covering up a major part of the unorganized
space year on year. The graph below shows the retail consumption (organized and unorganized), which is expected to grow at a compounded rate of 15% the next 5 years from
Rs 23 trillion in 2011-12 to Rs 47 trillion in 2016-17. Organized retail sector is expected
to grow at an annual average rate of 23 per cent to Rs 4.7 trillion in 2016-17 from Rs 1.7
trillion in 2011-12. This has given consumers far better retail environment and brands
can also showcase their products in a better way. In all, a very conducive environment is
being created in the retail space for lingerie which is going to make the consumer experience more enriching and friendly. Rising disposable income: The disposable income is
rising day by day and more and more women are now employed. Therefore, consumers
have enough disposable money to dictate their choices. The graph below shows that the
share of households with low income levels has fallen over the years, while the share of
those falling in higher income brackets is on the rise. Households with income between
Rs 1 lakh and Rs 5 lakh have grown at a CAGR of 9 per cent, while those with income
in the range of Rs 5 lakh and Rs 10 lakh have grown at CAGR of 12 per cent between
2001-02 and 2010-11. Likewise households with income over Rs 10 lakh have grown at a
CAGR of 15 per cent during the same period.
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Consumer demographic change:
The consumer demographic has changed greatly. The consumer segment has become
younger and this young segment is more aware and informed. According to Crisil research, the age bracket of 18 to 45 years accounts for a major part of retail spender.
3.4 Porter’s 5 Forces
The Porter’s 5 forces model is useful to analyze an industry from all the important aspects. For any entrant to enter an industry it is necessary to analyze it using the Porter’s
framework and the Indian lingerie industry is no exception. The five forces analysis is as
follows:
1. Threat of new entrants: The India lingerie industry has been flooded with brands in
the past few years. The evolution of brands in the Indian lingerie industry can be divided
into two parts: International brands and Indian brands.
Many international brands have established their footing in the Indian market. The international brands like Triumph and La Senza see India to be a market of huge potential.
These brands have already established themselves very well in the market and have
occupied a good share. So, the industry could see more international brands entering the
Indian market. The Indian market is very lucrative and with the FDI regulations being
relaxed, it is a lot easier for brands to make an entry.20% With the arrival of international
brands, there are a lot Indian brands that have surfaced in the past few years. Be it the
Bwitch brand of Satya Paul or Beyouty brand of Nischal Puri, many indigenous players
are seeing it easy to enter the lingerie market. This has been possible due to go the growth
that the lingerie market is seeing.. Also, it is easier to launch a brand in the market these
days. The capital required to launch a brand can easily be obtained through banks or
investors. Launching is just one part; manufacturing can easily be outsourced to plethora
of manufacturers. Therefore, the cost of setting up a plant can be avoided. And, since
most the market is unorganized, there is enough scope for new brands in the market. “I
feel the market is so big that at least 2-3 more brands can be easily accommodated in the
space.” Mr. Nischal Puri, CEO, Brandis . Therefore, bearing the above points in minds,
it is relatively easier for new entrants to enter the market and launch brands. The barriers
to entry are not that strong. However if the entrant wants to set up a manufacturing plant,
the barriers to entry are higher. This is because setting up a plant would require a lot of
initial capital and infrastructure which might not be readily available.
2. Bargaining power of customers: The Indian lingerie market is evolving and still
hasn’t reached its maturity. The customers have not been provided a plethora of options
when compared to the west. Earlier, customers did not give much importance to brands,
but now customers are becoming brand conscious. With the coming international brands
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and evolution of Indian brands, the options to the customers have increased. However,
when it comes to price, it has been seen that customers have become less price sensitive
and give more importance to quality and fitting, and brands ensure this. Also, lingerie has
become more of a commodity which is purchased by a customer in every 4 months on an
average. And on a commoditized product, customers exercise less bargaining power.
Therefore, bearing the above points in mind, the bargaining power of customers is not
that high. If they’re given products of good quality, they would happily buy without much
concern.
3. Bargaining power of suppliers: As stated earlier, the market is getting flooded with
brands. Most of the brands do not have manufacturing plants and they have outsourced
manufacturing. So, suppliers to these brands are manufacturers. To these manufacturers,
suppliers are the suppliers of raw material. The supplier chain is shown below.
Since the customers have become more quality conscious, there is some amount of pressure on brands to provide quality products. This is passed on to the manufacturers in the
chain which then passes on to the raw material suppliers. Also, brands are plenty in the
market, but the required number of quality manufacturers is not available in the industry.
According to one of the manufacturers who were interviewed – “Indian lingerie industry
lacks quality manufactures.” Therefore, the bargaining power of suppliers is somewhat
low and they would not be able to survive if they lost they lost the business generated by
the established brands.
4. Threat of substitutes:
Lingerie encompasses a wide range of products. This is an innerwear and as such can’t be
substituted by any other product. In fact, if any other product is introduced as an innerwear, it’ll fall under the category of lingerie. However, some people do think that bikini
is a substitute to lingerie. But, bikini is very different from lingerie. Lingerie is something
that is more personal and can’t be worn in public whereas bikini can be worn in public.
Hence, it is not an outright substitute. Therefore, the threat of substitutes is very low.
5. Competitive Rivalry: The competition in the lingerie market is dependent on these
four segments and varies. The Economy segment is dominated by the unorganized and
local players. As such, brands don’t concentrate much on this segment. This is the largest
segment with a market share of 62%. There are a lot of players and the competition is not
intense as the customer base is huge and there is hardly any branding. A few brands that
are a part of this segment are Daisy Dee, Juliet and Red Rose.
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3.5 Market segments of Indian Lingerie Industry
The Middle and Premium segments are dominated by national and organized players.
The market share of these two segments is 36%.These two segments are growing at a past
pace and customers of this segment are responding to branding activities. Therefore, it is
becoming important for companies to establish a name in the market. There are a lot of
players in the two segments and competition is pretty intense, but the intensity off-shoots
a little due to the huge customer base. A few brands that are a part of these two segments
are Daisy Dee, Juliet, Enamor, Lovable, Amante, Beyouty and Marks & Spencer. The Super Premium segment has been dominated mostly by the international brands. The share
of this segment is 2%. The international brands have captured this segment very strongly.
The biggest competitor in this segment is Triumph. Other competitors in this segment are
Bwitch, Marks & Spencer and La Senza.
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3.6 The History of Lingerie
Although not much is known about ancient people and their undergarments, certainly it
was like any other time in history in that the clothing worn depended largely on one’s
social stature. Wealthy or affluent people had greater means to attend to fashion and comfort, where the average person was more likely to wear what was practical and readily
available. In Ancient Egypt, women of means would wear linen tunic shaped garments
that fitted below the breasts and were held on by a strap that went over the shoulders.
Sometimes these tunics were cinched in at the waist in order to form a bit of a waistline.
In Ancient Rome, there is evidence found in the artwork of this era that perhaps a
wrapped form of a brief or bikini-like garment may have been worn by women, most
likely for practical reasons. Garments known as mammillary and fascia, which were basically bands of tight fabric, were worn around the breasts for supportive reasons. These
pieces of clothing were hardly sexy as we would consider it today, but they were sometimes worn as outer clothing as well, probably mostly for functional reasons.
In these ancient days, the exposure of the female breasts was likely not considered as
scandalous or risqué as it would be today. Bodices that pushed the breasts up and out
were part of everyday fashion and full bosom exposure was commonplace. These styles
can undoubtedly be considered to be some of the very earliest examples of rudimentary
intimate apparel that would accentuate and enhance the female form, likely having a
very obvious effect on the men at large during the time period. Using fashion and dress
to tease and attract men is hardly a new idea; women have obviously been doing this for
centuries.
Figure-11
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Middle Ages
During the middle Ages, the fashion ideal of the female form changed somewhat and the
desired look became far more constrained and sometimes included flattened breasts and
very cinched in waistlines. Women would use corsets and other lingerie implements to
achieve the look of a ridiculously flat stomach, very narrow waistline and a rigidly flat
chest. A linen chemise-like garment was worn underneath clothes, largely for practical
purposes and was likely the only garment that would be washed with any frequency. This
undergarment would help keep the outer clothing clean and protect the more expensive
outer clothing from dirty bodies and provide an extra layer of warmth. This light layer
was worn as a layer underneath the tight corsets as well.
Many torture devices were invented and used during this early time period, but none so
commonly used as the corset. Although not technically designed in order to torture, it’s
hard to imagine anything as uncomfortable for a woman to wear as this laced up garment,
designed and used as it was in these early days. These early corsets were laced in the
back and it usually took another person to lace them extremely tightly in order to cinch
in the waistline to its desired tininess. As ridiculous as it may seem, women were known
to swoon and faint frequently from having a corset that was laced extremely tight. At the
time these fainting spells were often attributed to the females supposed frail and delicate
nature, which was hardly actually the case. Having ribs, organs and body parts completely squished to the point of near bodily damage likely caused the fainting spells. In spite of
its uncomfortable nature, the corset was a woman’s go-to primary lingerie piece for well
over 350 years.
Figure-12
Figure-13
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By the 1500’s, corset use was a mainstay in the female’s lingerie wardrobe and would be
in various levels of tightness and structure for many years to come. Catherine de Medici
is rumoured to have had strict standards for her ladies in waiting as she herself frowned
upon anyone with a thick waist. A corset made of metal known as the “iron corset” has
been worn by women during this time period, although it is likely that a corset of this
heavy structured nature would have been extremely uncomfortable and would have made
any activity of substance very unlikely. This garment is indicative of some of the extremes that women throughout the ages have gone to in order to attain the level of fashion, appearance or sexiness that they considered to be desirable.
The French Revolution
During the French Revolutionary period around 1789, a brief, but welcome, respite was
brought to women when it came to their underwear. Women shunned the stiff corset and
rebelled against all symbols of the aristocracy, including their all too conforming underwear. Empire waist dresses that became in vogue during this time period didn't require
the cinched in tight waistlines anymore, and for a brief time period in history women
could breathe again. Breasts became the focus, however and whatever light ‘un-corset’
was worn underneath gowns and dresses was designed once again, to push the breasts up
and out.
As time rolled on, it wasn’t long before styles changed and waistlines moved back down
to a more natural level, thus requiring resurgence in that most annoying female lingerie
device, the corset. By 1825, waistlines were being cinched in again and the traditional
hourglass figure was the desired shape coveted by women everywhere. Advances made
in the design and production of corsets, including the use of metal eyelets, ensured that
women could be tightly laced into them without tearing or ripping the corset itself. The
suffering caused by the use of the corset had returned in all its glory and this undergarment’s use would be considered the norm under women’s fashion throughout the 19th
century. This century also first introduced the use of stocking, which were likely the predecessors to thigh high hosiery. Garters were attached to corsets and were used to hold up
these stockings. The Victorian Age, although considered to be one of the most prim and
proper in history, is ironically the age where some of the most classically sexy lingerie
pieces have their roots. Corsets, garter belts, stockings, all designed to create and enhance
an hourglass figure were commonly used during this somewhat sexually repressed time
period. Embroidery, laces and bows were added to the undergarments to make them more
decorative as well as beautiful. Some of the first strip tease shows began late during this
time period. French dancers created a ruckus when they would show glimpses of their
petticoats, garters and stockings during their high-kicking dance numbers.
By the beginning of the 20th century, women were becoming more active and participated in many more outdoor activities. This activity and lifestyle required much less
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restrictive underwear. Mary Phelps Jacob invented the first bra in 1913, supposedly made
by tying 2 handkerchiefs together. Mary began making her bras for family and friends
and by 1914 had patented her design and was marketing her bras throughout the United
States. During this time period the corset was ditched, and bloomers were being worn,
getting shorter and shorter as well because women were getting more involved in athletics and other active pursuits.
The Flapper Era and Beyond
By the 1920’s the desired silhouette of a woman’s body dictated by fashion became
dramatically different than it had ever been before. Women were striving for a freer, more
streamlined, very straight, almost boyish figure. Cami-knickers became a very popular
lingerie item during this time period, which are essentially a camisole with longer knickers all sewn into one piece. These cami-knickers were the perfect wardrobe essential to
go under the straight, tubular dresses of the 20’s that were designed to de-emphasize the
bust line while at the same time having a shockingly shorter hemline compared to the
floor length dresses that were the norm twenty years prior.
The fifties brought the female hourglass figure back with a big bang. The bra had solidified itself in every woman’s wardrobe and its shape had become quite extreme and quite
pointed. The sweater girls of this era, such as Lana Turner and Jane Mansfield made the
look of nearly conical breasts, small waists and full hips the desired and coveted look
of the day. Panty girdles with garters helped women to cinch in their waistlines and to
keep their hosiery in place. Thigh high stockings were very popular and definitely were
designed to be both functional as well as sexy look. These garter belts are the definite
forerunners to the contemporary as well as very sexy lingerie styles that stem from this
look today.
The 1960’s brought in with it an era devoted to freedom and non-conformity. Talk of
bra-burning and women’s liberation became the war cry of the day. Women’s lingerie
followed suit and bras became less structured, softer and often were wireless. Decorative
tights took the place of thigh high stockings and garter belts as this type of hosiery was
the perfect accompaniment to the miniskirts that were popularized during this decade.
The woman’s body was finally fully celebrated for its (mostly) natural shape.
1980’s and 1990’s--Technology hits Lingerie
Cleavage became popular again in the 1980’s and women who weren’t lucky enough to
be self-endowed, realized quickly that what nature didn’t do, bra technology could. The
advent of the Wonderbra and other push up bras would comfortably give women what
they wanted, deliciously full cleavage. Plunging necklines that were popular during these
decades became very alluring with the ample cleavage and pumped up bosom line created
by these fabulous bras. Padded and underwire bras became extremely popular, a trend
which continues to this day.
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Lingerie for the Modern Woman
It took a long time to get here and in the process, women have been moulded, squished,
conformed, flattened, pumped up and pushed out--but today’s woman at last has what she
really wants. EVERYTHING! Today’s lingerie is made to be comfortable, sexy, figure
enhancing as well as flattering. No matter what your lingerie goals or needs may be, there
is a vast array of products in today’s lingerie marketplace that are designed to meet intimate apparel wardrobe needs. Bras come in every imaginable fabrication as well as style
and include gel filled, air filled, padded, strapless, backless, as well as convertible and
many more. Panties cover a wide range from shapers and granny panties to G-strings and
thongs. Other lingerie items are readily available including baby dolls, teddies, chemises
and gown. Today’s woman is lucky because she has more lingerie choices available to her
than at any other time in history.
3.7 History of Indian Lingerie
Although majority of female figures in ancient Indian sculptures are devoid of a blouse,
there are several instances of ancient Indian women wearing brassieres. The first historical reference to brassieres in India is found during the rule of king Harshavardhan (1st
century) in Kashmir. The half-sleeved tight bodice or kanchuka figures prominently in
the literature of the period. From Basavapurana (1237 A.D.), it is learned that kanchukas
were worn by young girls as well. The Somanathacharita speaks of an aged harlot who
used a special blouse to hold up her drooping breasts. Poet Harihara refers to wearing of
tight white clothes (bigidudisi) before throwing of a shawl embroidered with gold over
the shoulders. Sewn brassieres and blouses were very much in vogue during the Vijaynagar empire and the cities brimmed with tailors (chippiga) who specialized in tight fitting
of garments.
Tailored brassieres
were popular during the Vijayanagar period, 14th century
The Leelavati Prabhanda mentions a kind of brassier prevalent in 10th century. While no
pictures or detailed descriptions of it are found, a sculpture of the time has just narrow
strip to cover the nipples.
Medieval padded brassier
In a medieval sculpture from Karnataka, a brassier is sculpted around a deity (shown
below) that appears to have been made up of thick cotton. Regularly sewn brassieres of
26
cup-like shape are also found, some others appear to be propped up by ornaments.
Ornamental Brassier
Line drawing based on a temple sculpture. The necklace is disguised as the support to
hold up the cups
Figure-14
Figure-16
Figure-15
27
3.8 Eroticism and Lingerie
Why does eroticism seem to represent the underlying value of underwear?
Eroticism is “… a marked taste for sexual things …sensuality.”Catching a glimpse of
a woman’s underwear greatly effects the one who sees it, as if what is invisible is less
important than what is visible. What is left to the imagination inspires the senses, because
when everything is displayed with no (false) prudery, there is no journey down the tortuous road from the imagination to reality. In fact, according to Magnus Hirschfeld (18681935), only 350 men out of 1000 were attracted by the entirely naked body of the female,
whereas 400 preferred the body semi-clothed and 250 preferred it to remain fully clothed.
Therefore, for many men, the semi-clothed body is erotic and an object of fantasy. More
than ever, in this game of peek-a-boo, women’s underwear has a major role. When seen
back to the ladies of the Ancient Regime in France who revealed their petticoats when
riding side-saddle or going up stairs, it is clear that certain women’s undergarments
were already being displayed. Petticoats had always been the exception in the world of
underwear. They were designed to be seen and heard. While other undergarments were
simple and modest, petticoats were often decorated and colourful, as they were meant to
be seen. The seductive function of the petticoat was to last throughout the 19th century
and all efforts were made to attract attention to it. One noticed the rustling first, as it was
noticeable to someone listening for it, which could then see frills peeking out from under
the skirt. Great interest was taken in this. The discovery of this sound enveloping the
object of desire was a part of the eroticism of underwear, as this “man to man” conversation shows: “Take your time to listen to the music of fabrics. This music is at the heart of
man’s desire, that desire of which one speaks so little or so badly. ” In fact, man’s desire
“of which one speaks so badly” (like woman’s desire, of which one speaks just as badly)
is called upon by all the senses and the first of these is hearing, well before sight or touch.
Women’s underwear is erotic because it disturbs a man’s senses and assumes a secret allure. It is hidden, can be heard and then seen and felt. After a man has heard petticoats, he
imagines what they look like and, with a little luck, he is allowed to look at them; when it
is finally revealed, underwear is the last barrier between two bodies. Ultimately, appearing in underwear is an ambiguous way of hiding and showing the body as it simultaneously displays and covers it up. This is why strip-tease is so popular, as the show begins
with the object of desire being covered up and then progressively revealed. The striptease started in Paris, France, in the 19th century with “Yvette’s bedtime” but found its
name and success in the United States before crossing back over the Atlantic. The striptease owed its success to the way layers were removed and then gradually revealed what
was hidden underneath, so maintaining certain suspense for the audience. A young lady
removing her clothes went further by making visible something which usually is not. This
play of visible and invisible is not only seen in cabaret but also in everyday life. A bra can
28
be visible under a blouse, on purpose or otherwise, and briefs or a G-string can be seen
under trousers or spotted at the waistline. Some say there is nothing more erotic than this
type of furtive look! Furthermore, a woman can choose to wear a muslin or delicate voile
top to a party under which she wears a lace bustier, knowing the effect this will have on
men’s imagination. Transparency plays a great role in the strategy of hiding and displaying the body, as it can cover physical imperfections and reveal without the shock of complete nudity. In this way, the eroticism of underwear comes from both its appearance and
its link with the imagination and fantasy. Sight, of course, is a sense which plays a part
in the game of sensuality; the observer notes the female form whose lines are enhanced
by underwear. The erotic charge of women’s underwear is also due to the way it accentuates the femininity of the body. The corsetry of the 19th century, for example, meant
not only that the sex sirens of the day could be observed but also that the female body’s
characteristics were accentuated. The corset really was the garment which remodelled
the body the most by lifting the bust, pulling in the waist and rounding the hips. These
are the most sensual parts of the female body and the most symbolic of maternity (breast
and hips), and they were systematically accentuated. The erotic charge of underwear is
also based on the way it underlines the natural differences between men and women. Very
often in the history of western societies, undergarments which accentuated certain parts
of the body were not acceptable as they shocked the sensibilities of the time. Sometime is
needed before new things become acceptable, but as soon as “Mrs Average” realises that
something is flattering, a new accessory is here to stay! This was the case with bloomers. Legend has it that they were introduced by Catherine de Medicis who had very slim
legs and who used this new garment as a way of showing off her assets. In fact, although
they were worn under trousers, the bloomers were often visible and so flattered the shape
of the wearer following the well-known principle that if one tries to hide something it is
more effective when hinted at than when revealed
Eroticism and seduction through which the blue sky could be seen. Sometimes a stronger gust of wind blew against the white washing line and the bloomers shuddered with
their legs in the air as if they were trying to get back to their arrangement on the washing
line…The bloomers were truly animated and provocative, independent and suggestive.
At the end of the 19th century, bloomers were displayed intentionally during dances such
as the can-can and the “chahut” and also on the saucy postcards of the 1890s and the beginning of the 20th century. These showed women displaying elaborate bloomers which
enlarged their hips and buttocks. The erotic element of women’s underwear was based on
the fact that it was secret and, in this way, it enhanced the female form.
29
Primary Research
Chapter-4
4.1 Intimate Bridal Lingerie
According to mycamila.com’s dictionary, the definition of bridal lingerie is:
“Type of bras, bustier, corsets etc. characterized by sensual attributes (sheer
fabric, decorative, lacy silhouette) that are worn on wedding nights or for
similarly seductive situations.”
Women of today are increasingly aware of the concept of bridal lingerie,
which is very prevalent in the west, but have not been given the required
avenues in the Indian retail space.There is no brand in the Indian retail space
that focuses exclusively on bridal lingerie.
4.2 Indian Lingerie Market segment
The Indian lingerie market is divided into 4 segments:
a) ECONOMY (Rs35.06bn growing at 17%)
b) MIDDLE (Rs12bn growing at 22%)
c) PREMIUM (Rs8.32bn growing at 32%)
d) SUPER PREMIUM (Rs900mn growing at 56%)
30
4.3 Brands under these segments
• Economy segment
This is the largest segment with a market share of 62%. The competition is
not intense as the customer base is huge and there is hardly any branding.
A few brands that are a part of this segment are Daisy Dee, Juliet and Red
Rose.
• Middle and Premium segments
The market share of these two segments is 36%. The competition is pretty
intense. Brands that are a part of these two segments are Daisy Dee, Juliet,
Enamor, Lovable, Amante, Marks & Spencer, etc.
• Super Premium segment
It has been dominated mostly by the international brands. The share of this
segment is 2%. The biggest competitor in this segment is Triumph. Other
competitors in this segment are Bewitch, Marks & Spencer and La Senza, La
Perla, Triumph etc.
4.4 Current Scenario in bridal lingerie in India
• Any brands in India does not promote lingerie as bridal lingerie, but online
stores sales them under bridal lingerie. Like Amante’s Lacy lingerie is sold
under bridal segment on Zivame, an online lingerie store. But it is not promoted as bridal lingerie by Amante. ShopImagine.in is the online store in India which sales bridal lingerie, but the collection does not have any element
of Indian Bride, which could differentiate it from regular wear.
31
4.5 Survey
For Women
1.Are Indian women aware of bridal lingerie?
Women of today are more aware and are willing to experiment with new products in the
market. One of the questions that were asked in the questionnaire revolved around assessing the awareness level of the respondents. The result is shown in the pie chart.
The above pie-chart shows that of the 30 respondents, 73% of the women are aware of
bridal lingerie and 27% are not at all aware. So, looking at the numbers, it is suggestive
that customers are aware of the concept of bridal lingerie.
32
2. Awareness about bridal lingerie available in the market
After having assessed the awareness level of the customers, it needed to be assessed if
bridal lingerie is available in the market. There is no bridal lingerie segment existing in
the Indian lingerie industry. The only thing close to bridal lingerie being sold is lacy lingerie which is essentially lacy work done on lingerie.
The pie-chart shows that only 30% of the women think that bridal lingerie is available in
the market. The rest, 70%, say that either it is not at all available or they don’t have any
idea if it is available.
33
3. Do you wear sensuous lingerie?
•
•
•
•
Yes I do
Sometimes
Very rare
Not comfortable
34
4. Would you prefer having Indian elements in lingerie for your wedding?
•
Yes
•
No
35
Survey for Men
1.How important is lingerie when you are intimate with your partner?
• 1 to 4
• 4 to 7
• 7 to 10
36
2. What kind of lingerie would you like your partner to wear?
• sexy
• Intimate
• Comfort wear
• Sports wear
37
3. Would you like to gift lingerie to your partner or you like surprises?
• Gift
• Surprise
• Both
38
39
Results and Analysis
Chapter-5
5.1 Design Process
The design process starts with the mood board which dipicts the mood of Indian women
and her emotions on the wedding day. The next stage is ispiration board, inspirations
from old movies has been taken which shows the beauty of Indian women in clothes and
jewellry then the exploration of designs and reaching to final design.
40
41
5.2 Mood Board
42
Design Explorations
43
44
45
46
Ideation
Elements of wedding
dress are used.
lacy
white
Sheer fabric
Ribbon
Figure-17
Figure-18
47
In India, any auspicious moment is incomplete without the color red. Red has been constant companion of Indian Brides. It is color of life, reminder of the beginning of a new
phase in life.
Significance
The color red is associated with love and passion.
In Indian culture, according to astrology, the planet in charge of marriage, Mars, is red in
color. So Brides are asked to wear red during the wedding proceedings since it stands for
prosperity and fertility.
Gold is the color of prosperity, luxury and purity
48
Final Design
49
50
Conclusion
From this study it can be concluded that although there is tremendeous growth in Indian
lingerie market, specially the super premium segment. The most important segment was
not given sufficient importance. There are many options available in market which are
specifically for honeymoons but it does not fulfull the need of Indian women. In India
new bride would prefer more modest lingerie, if if it is for honeymoon.
The survey revealed that modern Indian women are willing to buy intimate lingerie for
their wedding night, which have some Indian elements in it as from the day of first shopping everythning is colorful and glittery so why should lingerie not be a part of celebrating wedding. In India the girl is suppose to buy everythning new traditionally she should
not take any old clothes alng with her to her new house, so given a choice of lingerie for
such special occassion is welcomed by Indian modern women.
51
APPENDIX
Figure-1: http://www.lovepanky.com/men/how-to-tips-and-guide-formen/the-lingerie-guide-for-men-types-of-lingerie
Figure-11: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2653370/Exposinghistory-lingerie-From-waist-whittling-corsets-barely-bras-new-exhibittraces-foundations-womens-underwear.html
Figure-14: http://www.kamat.com/kalranga/ancient/wonderbra.htm
Figure-17: http://www.yandy.com/bridal_lingerie.asp?P=all
Figure-18: http://www.yandy.com/bridal_lingerie.asp?P=all
52
References
Webliography
http://womenwewin.blogspot.in/2012/03/ancient-brassieres.html
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/life-style/relationships/man-woman/Indian-brideswant-sexy-lingerie/articleshow/45394564.cms
http://www.desiblitz.com/content/bridal-lingerie-for-the-asian-woman
http://www.kamat.com/kalranga/ancient/wonderbra.htm
http://braologie.com/affiliate/
http://www.indianweddingsite.com/
http://www.onlineweddingboutique.com.au/articles_tips-article-wedding_lingerie_what_
to_wear_under_your_wedding_dress
http://www.severalfashion.com/2012/invisible-plus-size-thongs-for-women/#.VVJqFPmqqkp
http://fashion-bust.com/2014/03/06/bridal-lingerie-collections/
Bibliography
Gillian Karoline Newman-A century of Lingerie
Chenoune Farid- Hidden Femininity
Muriel Barbier and Shazia Boucher- The Story of Lingerie
53

BRIDAL LINGERIE Intimate wear for Indian Bride DISSERTATION

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