DIAMONDS Masterpieces of creation

DIAMONDS
Masterpieces of creation
MASTERPIECES OF CREATION
The diamond is one of Nature’s true gifts. The hardest known natural substance,
it consists of pure carbon. Precisely how diamonds were crystallized in the
earth’s core, under enormous pressure and unimaginable temperatures, is something we still do not fully understand. However, something we can say with
certainty is how it obtains its consummate form: through Bucherer’s craftsmanship.
Like you, we too are fascinated by the magical sparkle of precious gemstones.
Our goldsmiths draw on all their artistic talent and years of expertise to
transform ideas for designs into superb pieces of jewelry. After this comes the
crowning glory – and it takes a steady hand – as the setter painstakingly
positions the gemstone in its mount. And if the diamond in question happens
to be a solitaire for one of our 1888 rings, he will carry out the assignment
not only with pride and respect, but also more than a little love.
Discover the enchantment of these masterpieces of creation as you leaf through
our brochure. We wish you very pleasant reading.
1
Fabulous gemstones
It is a long and eventful journey from
rough crystal to cut diamond.
Trust in Bucherer to help you make
your dream come true
2
CONTENTS
Six good reasons to choose Bucherer
Criteria for diamond quality: the 4 Cs
Cut
Clarity
Color
Carat
Certificate
Sources and trading centers
Royal Asscher Cut®
1888 – The unique solitaire diamond
Whispering Diamond®
6
8
8
12
14
16
17
18
21
23
24
5
SIX GOOD REASONS TO CHOOSE
BUCHERER DIAMONDS
TRADITION AND REPUTATION
Founded in 1888, Bucherer is a family-owned firm and one of Europe’s most traditional
watch and jewelry retailers. With 26 stores in Switzerland, Germany and Austria,
Bucherer is the biggest retailer of high-quality diamond jewelry and has an excellent
reputation worldwide.
ADVICE FROM PROFESSIONALS
All Bucherer stores have sales personnel with gemological expertise who are able to
provide our customers with professional advice and answers to their questions,
no matter how complicated.
AN UNMATCHED CHOICE
Our choice of diamond jewelry and quality loose diamonds is enormously wide and
varied. Among them are uniquely beautiful rare stones, some weighing over ten carats.
TESTED AND CERTIFIED
Our specialists test every single diamond using the very strictest criteria. All details
relevant to their quality are attested to by an internationally recognized certifi cate
(GIA/HRD) and confirmed on the receipt.
ATTRACTIVE PRICES
Thanks to the company’s scale, Bucherer can rely on its own diamond experts, who buy
in stones direct at the world’s diamond exchanges, thus eliminating intermediaries.
They are familiar with the complex criteria used to select diamonds and guarantee top
quality at attractive prices, from which our customers profit.
6
HAMBURG
BERLIN
NETHERLANDS
DÜSSELDORF
GERMANY
BELGIUM
FRANKFURT
NUREMBERG
PARIS (New in 2013)
MUNICH
CZECH REPUBLIC
VIENNA
AUSTR I A
FRANCE
SWITZERLAND
ITA LY
BASEL
ST. GALL
ZURICH
S PA I N
BERNE
LUCERNE
DAVOS
LAUSANNE
ST. MORITZ
INTERLAKEN
LOCARNO
GENEVA
ZERMATT
LUGANO
CLOSE TO YOU
With 26 stores at some of the best-known and most beautiful locations in Switzerland,
Germany and Austria, there is certain to be one very close to you.
7
QUALITY CRITERIA – THE 4 Cs
Cut
Clarity
Color
Carat
Together, these four quality criteria determine the value of a diamond. Our specialists
are often asked which of the four Cs is the most important. We believe it is the cut.
CUT
8
Pear cut
Oval cut
Cushion cut
Brilliant cut
Royal Asscher
Mother Nature provides a diamond with almost everything it needs: the color, clarity
and size of the raw crystal are givens. The cut alone is the work of an individual, who
turns the rough diamond into a masterpiece or otherwise. The polisher, then, has an enormous responsibility. His work has little influence on the color and clarity, but he does
play a decisive role when it comes to the quality of the cut. Aft er all, what good to you is
a stone with the highest possible color and clarity grading if the cut is mediocre and
fails to reflect incident light effectively? We would be happy to explain to you the points
to which we attach particular importance when buying diamonds.
Symmetry
The symmetry can be assessed using the following criteria: does the diamond have an exact
shape: for example, is a brilliant diamond perfectly round? Are the facets symmetrically
arranged and correctly positioned? Is the number of facets correct? Do the upper and lower
halves of the diamond fit together properly?
9
Heart cut
Emerald cut
Marquise or
Navette cut
Radiant cut
Princess cut
Proportions
Correct proportions are vital to the cut of a diamond. We can understand why the
polisher will use all the means at his disposal to keep the weight of the stone over,
say, 1 ct. The reason is that he will be able to charge more for a 1-ct stone than for a
0.90 one. In economic terms, it makes double sense for the polisher (higher carat
price, greater weight). Unfortunately, however, the brilliance often suffers. For this
reason, we do not purchase diamonds with poor proportions
Overall height
If a 1-ct brilliant diamond does not have a diameter of ± 6.5 mm, it may well show 1 ct on
the scales but, optically speaking, it is not! If a 1-ct brilliant diamond has a diameter of
6.2 or 6.3 mm, the proportions are incorrect (although you would expect it to be cheaper).
Overall, a brilliant diamond like this one is too high. It may well be that the upper half
is too high, the lower half too deep, or both together; otherwise, the girdle may be extremely thick (> 5 percent). The overall height of a brilliant diamond should be between
59 and 62 percent of the diamond’s diameter. At 57 percent, the stone is definitely too
flat, from 64 percent upward definitely too high. Whether it is too flat or too high,
it has a detrimental effect on the brilliance. Incident light exits the stone either downward or to the side and is no longer optimally refl ected back to the observer.
optimum
too deep
too shallow
Cut in correct proportions,
the diamond reflects the light
from one facet to another,
which causes it to go directly
back to the onlooker.
If the diamond is cut too deep
(i. e. too thick), part of its light
is lost inside the stone.
And if the cut is too flat,
the light is not reflected
and escapes downward.
10
Table size
Over the course of many years, the table size in brilliant diamonds has undergone a
change. The table is the largest facet on any diamond. Back in the 1970s and 80s,
tables were often 63, 64 or even more percent, this figure today is ideally between 55
and 60 percent. Successive reduction of the table size has created even greater brilliance
and a more sparkling fire.
55 %
59 %
62 %
11
CLARITY
Diamonds are graded for clarity under 10x loupe magnification. The various grades are:
fl
flawless: these have no inclusions or outer blemishes (very rare)
if
internally flawless: these have no inclusions
vvs1/vvs2 very very slightly included: minute inclusions that are difficult to detect
even for a trained gemologist (it really is sometimes extremely difficult
to spot a single, tiny pinpoint of an inclusion)
vs1/vs2
very slightly included: very small inclusions that only a practiced specialist
will see
fl /if
vvs1/vvs2
vs1/vs2
si1/si2
imperfect I
imperfect II–III
12
si1/si2
slightly included: small inclusions that are easy for a practiced specialist
to see
I1 to I3
imperfect pronounced inclusions: the inclusions are clearly visible (often
to the naked eyed) and can adversely affect the diamond’s brilliance
The term “inclusion” may not always be entirely appropriate. Very often, a diamond’s
clarity may be impeded by cleavages, fractures or cracks. Classic inclusions are
crystals in the form of foreign bodies, such as garnets, spinels or peridots: on rare
occasions, another diamond may be present as an inclusion on the inside.
Often, when talking about color and clarity, people – unfortunately – very often refer
to inferior color or clarity. There is no such thing as “bad” colors or “poor” quality.
The highest ratings for colors are D, E and F, for clarity fl, if, vvs1 or vvs2, and there
are low-grade colors and clarity.
13
COLOR
For many years now, the color of diamonds has been graded on a scale running through
the letters from D to Z. The highest color rating is indicated by the letter D, the lowest
by Z. When referring to diamonds from D to H, jewelers speak of “white diamonds”.
From color rating I, the stones gradually become yellower.
J
K
L
M–Z
Top
Cape
Cape
Cape
Yellow
Color
14
Tinted
Fantasy colors
I
Tinted white
H
Crystal
“Old Terms”
Slightly tinted
G
Top
Crystal
Fine white
F
White
Fine white +
E
Wesselton
Brilliant
white
D
Color scale
Top
Wesselton
Brilliant
white +
Scala GIA
River
High-grade color or high-grade clarity?
If ever you are faced with this question, you should always opt for higher-grade color.
The reason for this can be seen from our example: If we put two diamonds in front of
you, one color rating D and the other K, and we ask you which of the two diamonds
appears whiter, you will almost certainly point to the stone with the D rating. But if
you had to decide which of the two diamonds was fl awless and which vs2, you would
certainly have to guess. The reason for this is that you can only see the diff erence if
you look at them under 10x magnification.
Colored diamonds
Colored diamonds are a genuine rarity. They are available in colors of all nuances:
in red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, brown, gray and black. Here, too,
Nature has given us an incredible array of possibilities. It is interesting to note
that a polisher of white diamonds and a polisher of colored diamonds have two
completely different professions.
When colored diamonds are cut and polished, there is one criterion that stands out
head and shoulders above the rest: the color. Rule number one for the polisher is to
ensure that the color is retained in the stone. Everything you have read regarding the
symmetry, proportions, table size or overall height of white diamonds plays a subordinate role in the case of colored diamonds. The one and only factor that really counts
is color. You will find that the radiant cut or cushion cut are very often used with
colored diamonds. Both cuts admit less light, with the result that the stone retains its
color more effectively. Rarer occurrences are pear- or heart-cut diamonds, and even
rarer, princess-, emerald- or brilliant-cut stones.
15
CARAT
The weight of gemstones is shown in carats to an accuracy of two decimal places. Th e usual
abbreviation is ct. 1.00 ct is equivalent to 0.2 grams. Modern electronic carat scales even
show carat weight in thousandths of a gram. The rounding-up rule for diamonds is intriguing. Rounding up is permitted only when the third decimal place is a nine. If a
diamond weighs 0.998 ct, the weight is shown as 0.99 ct on the certifi cate.
0.50 ct
± 5,1 mm
0.75 ct
± 5,9 mm
16
1.00 ct
± 6,5 mm
CERTIFICATE
Bucherer and a very large section of the diamond trade put their trust in certificates
issued by the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and HRD Antwerp.
On request, we will be delighted to issue you with a Bucherer certificate for your diamonds.
1.50 ct
± 7,4 mm
2.00 ct
± 8,2 mm
17
3.00 ct
± 9,3 mm
CANADA
ANTWERP
NEW YORK
CENTRAL AFRICAN REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO
BRAZIL
ANGOLA
NAMIBIA
BOTSWANA
SOUTH AFRICA
TRADING CENTER
PRODUCING COUNTRIES
SOURCES AND
TRADING CENTERS
The first diamonds were discovered in India.
Until the 18th century, the subcontinent
was the sole source of diamonds. From 1725,
India was gradually replaced by Brazil.
Almost 150 years later, in 1867, the first
18
RUSSIA
RAMAT GAN (TEL AVIV)
INDIA
MUMBAI
DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO
ZIMBABWE
AUSTRALIA
LESOTHO
Botswana, Russia, Canada and Australia.
The most important diamond trading
centers are Antwerp, Ramat Gan (Tel Aviv),
New York and Mumbai.
diamond was found on African soil.
This unleashed an out-and-out
diamond rush. In 2012, the world’s
most important suppliers are
19
Exclusively from Bucherer
ROYAL ASSCHER® CUT
In 1908, the Dutch diamond cutter Joseph Asscher was no doubt trembling as he carried
out the job of cleaving the Cullinan Diamond, the largest rough diamond ever found,
for King Edward VII of England. Once he had succeeded, however, he had every reason
to celebrate: crowned heads from all over the world competed for his services.
A GLORIOUS COMEBACK
Today, the diamond dynasty is run by the fifth and sixth generations of the family in
the persons of Edward Asscher and his children, Lita and Mike. In 2001 the two
brothers Edward and Joop Asscher had helped revive a cut that had been all but forgotten.
The Royal Asscher® cut with its 74 facets is instantaneously recognizable from the
striking table, the wide corners and the Royal insignia: the Royal Asscher® Cut logo is
laser-engraved into the girdle.
EXCLUSIVELY FROM BUCHERER
The Royal Asscher® Cut is so exclusive that its creators have only ever entrusted it to the
very best retailers. The company’s sole representative in Switzerland and Germany is
Bucherer. So if you would like an audience with the “king” of diamonds, we will be only
too pleased to arrange for one. If you then decide to purchase a diamond from the
House of Royal Asscher, you will receive two certifi cates attesting to and confirming the
authenticity of this rare and valuable jewel.
21
1888 – THE UNIQUE SOLITAIRE DIAMOND
Deep-felt emotions are often so powerful that they are difficult to express in words.
The unique 1888 solitaire diamond is therefore the perfect gift to express your
affection for the person you respect, admire and love above all others.
AS PRECIOUS AS YOUR LOVE ITSELF
The creation of the 1888 is undoubtedly the crowning glory to Bucherer’s incomparably
multifaceted range of diamonds. Designed in the company’s own workshops, this bewitching solitaire ring has a simple design and is made of finest-quality platinum with
a six-prong setting that sets off this most precious of all precious stones to its best
advantage.
A RING WITH NO COMPROMISES
The unique brilliant-cut diamond satisfies the highest-possible quality criteria for the 4 Cs
(cut, clarity, color and carat). Without exception, the stones selected are fl awless or
internally flawless and hold one of the highest color ratings (D, E or F). The cut, polish and
symmetry are all outstanding. The diamonds selected for the 1888 come in various sizes,
but are at least 6.5mm in diameter or weigh 1 carat or more.
All quality details have been checked by our diamond buyers and are confirmed by an
internationally recognized GIA certificate.
23
WHISPERING DIAMOND®
Since time immemorial, lovers have felt the need to immortalize the depth of their
feelings for eternity. This is the reason they carve hearts in tree trunks or scratch
poems into the balustrades of famous landmarks. Now Bucherer has created something
that is the most consummate proof of eternal love: we engrave your words onto a
diamond, the unmatched symbol of eternity.
WHISPERED MESSAGES OF LOVE
When you purchase a Whispering Diamond® we engrave your own personal message of
love onto the girdle of the stone using a special laser. As delicately as a whispered
declaration of affection. The dedication is so small that it can only be read when enlarged
ten times through a magnifying glass. In this way, it remains a treasured secret between
you and the object of your affection.
Every Whispering Diamond® is presented with a magnifying glass, a photographic
enlargement of the engraving and a Bucherer Diamond Certificate, all beautifully
packaged in a “Whisperbox”.
24
WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS | Basel Bern Davos Genève Interlaken Lausanne
Locarno Lugano Luzern St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zürich
Berlin Düsseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg München Nürnberg | Wien | Paris | bucherer.com