the golden move of carl f. bucherer

WATCH AFICIONADO
WEB & IPAD
SPECIAL
THE GOLDEN MOVE OF
CARL F. BUCHERER
w w w. w a t c h - a f i c i o n a d o . c o m
WATCH BUSINESS PAPER | USA VOL. 52 | MARCH/APRIL 2016 | WITH INDEX OF ALL IN-DEPTH ARTICLES PUBLISHED ONLINE
neomatik from NOMOS Glashütte: Watches with the automatic movement of the next generation. Incredibly slender,
highly precise—and now available with selected retailers. Find out more at nomos-neomatik.com, nomos-store.com.
EDITORIAL
Featuring this month on:
IN SEARCH OF
www.watch-aficionado.com
MANERO PERIPHERAL IN ROSE GOLD
by Carl F. Bucherer
Reference number: 00.10917.03.23.01
Movement: Automatic caliber CFB A2050, chronometer, diameter of 30.6 mm, thickness of 5.28 mm, 33
jewels, 55 hours of power reserve. Functions: Date,
hours, minutes, small seconds. Case: 18-karat rose
gold, domed sapphire crystal with antireflective
coating on both sides, sapphire crystal case back,
water-resistant to 30m (3 atm), diameter of 40.6
mm, thickness of 11.2 mm. Strap: Louisiana alligator leather, 18-karat rose gold pin buckle. Dial:
White. Variant: 00.10917.03.33.01 with black dial.
www.carl-f-bucherer.com
by Pierre Maillard, Editor-in-chief
A
re we looking at the end of a model, the model that has shaped the face of
world watchmaking over the last two decades? Given the plethora of factors
conspiring to destroy or seriously compromise the foundations of this unique
sector of economic activity, we’re tempted to say yes. It would be superfluous to expound
upon the worrying state of the world, which is amply discussed elsewhere. All the CEOs
we approached to complete our survey (see elsewhere in these pages) had the same
things to say: stalled economy in China, fall of the ruble, bloodbath in the Middle East,
Europe contending with a refugee crisis of biblical proportions, doubts over Schengen,
possible Brexit, rise of nationalism and social inequality, terrorist threats, not to mention
the prospect of seeing Trump as leader of the free world or, worse yet, the threat of a
monumental environmental catastrophe that would lead to unimaginable geopolitical
chaos and human tragedy.
Given the seriousness of these threats, it seems almost irrelevant to be worrying about
the watch industry. And yet, as we have often repeated here, watchmaking is not like a
modular habitat on Mars, it does not exist in its own sterile bubble, and it can hold up a
mirror to its time. It faces the same dangers, and it also has to respond to threats unique
to its own milieu, which are calling its own models into question. Everything seems to be
coming to a head: the rising tide of smartwatches is upsetting the established hierarchies
and beginning to reconfigure the game board, particularly at the entry level and in the
mid-range (although when we asked our CEOs, who represent the entire spectrum of
watch products, they were almost unanimous in downplaying the danger). This rising
tide that the latest statistics released by the FH appears to reflect comes at a time when
retailers’ drawers are overflowing with unsold merchandise.
The market is saturated, and yet new brands are jumping into the fray every day. At the
same time, serious cracks are appearing in the mono-brand boutique model. They are
expensive – extremely expensive – and they are often empty (“Without jewellery, the
mono-brand model is stupid,” Corum CEO Davide Traxler said bluntly to Le Temps). A return to the multi-brand model appears inevitable (Richemont is currently trying out a new
multi-brand concept in China, under the name of Time Vallée, which is open to competition). There is no denying that the dizzying upward mobility of Swiss watchmaking was a
way of responding to the growing chasm separating the mega-rich from a disintegrating
middle class. But this ascent, combined with greater vertical integration of the means
of production, is tearing holes in the historic fabric that underpins the pre-eminence of
Swiss watchmaking. Many subcontractors have been hit hard. Quietly, but increasingly
openly, jobs are being downsized (at the end of February Richemont announced it would
be letting go 350 of its 9,000 employees in Switzerland – 2,000 of whom it has taken
on since 2010). Euphoria seems in short supply. What will the watch industry look like in
ten years’ time? There must be many people who wish they had a crystal ball. The encouraging figures announced by our Japanese friends, who are not afraid of combining fine
mechanical horology with cutting-edge technology, may well provide part of the answer.
Perhaps we’ll learn a little more when Baselworld opens its doors. A new model looks
more necessary than ever. p
EDITORIAL
In search of a new model
ALL EYES ON…
The golden move of Carl F. Bucherer
EUROPA STAR ARCADE INTERVIEW
Carl F. Bucherer – Sasha Moeri: ”We keep the golden wheel
turning with our new movement A2000”
BUSINESS RETRO-PERSPECTIVE
World CEO survey
Analysis: Watch exports 2015: the slowdown is easier at the
top, but the happy few are increasingly scarce
SIHH 2016 and the price dichotomy
SIGNALS
BRANDS
After-sales service: Patek Philippe – The manufacture within a
manufacture + Meeting with Laurent Cantin, Director International
Client Services
Interview | Case Study: Girard-Perregaux, Antonio Calce: ”Let’s
show them what we’re made of”
Anniversary: Raymond Weil – 40 years of family independence
Anniversary: Century – Half a century in sapphire
Anniversary: Ernest Borel – A 160-year romance
Anniversary: Rudis Sylva – Ten years to preserve three centuries
GALLERIES
Tourbillons & Complications, Graphic Elegance, ICY Diamonds,
Open, Chronomania, Bold.
Girard-Perregaux Esmeralda Tourbillon
EUROPA STAR ARCADE INTERVIEWS
Laurent Katz: Pequignet – The last bastion of made in France
Yvan Arpa: Artya – The spirit of Bushido
Daphné de Jenlis: In the watch aisle of Les Galeries Lafayette
DEBATES, OP-EDS & CHRONICLES
Counterfeiters: Real, fake and real fake watches
Analysis | Interview: 2015 results for the French watch industry
WATCHPRINT BOOK SELECTION
LAKIN@LARGE
A zest for bargains
SPOTLIGHT
Emotion France
Three new marvels from Casio
Seiko Presage: Fine mechanical watchmaking, from Japan
Citizen – 40 years of pioneering Eco-Drive technology
Orient – The challenging spirit of Orient Watch
Read all articles on
www.watch-aficionado.com
ALL EYES ON…
THE GOLDEN MOVE OF
Manero Peripheral
The Lucerne-based brand revitalises
its whole identity under baroque
symbolic, unveils a very promising
family of new calibres and further
strengthens its collections.
The least we can say is that 2016
is not “business as usual”!
by Serge Maillard, Europa Star
O
n the cover of this Baselworld issue of Europa Star,
the Manero Peripheral is not just “any” new
timepiece by Carl F. Bucherer. It is a landmark and
a stepping stone for the family-owned brand managed by the
dynamic Sascha Moeri.
Just the tip of the iceberg, this new model is indeed the first
to feature the new family of calibres CFB A2000, which will
appear in future Haute Horlogerie models of the Lucernebased manufacture and open up a wide horizon.
At the crossroads between the devotion to a sacred centurylong past in watchmaking and the desire to innovate in a
radical way lies the heart and soul of Carl
F. Bucherer. The CFB A2050 movement,
which drives the Manero Peripheral, is one
possible variant of the A2000, whose development took place over several years in
secret on the manufacture grounds. In addition to its central hours and minutes hands,
the new Manero displays the small seconds
at 6 o’clock and the date at 3 o’clock.
This new watch movement is housed in a
classically designed, multifaceted round case. Visual intensity
is created by clear edges, soft curves, and contrasting polished
and matte surfaces. The dial is a Manero classic: elaborately
finished with raised wedge hour-markers. And, as is usual for
the series, the time is indicated by faceted lance hands.
The Manero Peripheral, with a power reserve of 55 hours, is
being launched in six versions: the 40 mm case is offered in rose
4 | ALL EYES ON… | WATCH AFICIONADO
gold or stainless steel, each with dials in deep matte black or
elegant porcelain white. Each variant is complemented with a
fine strap crafted from alligator leather. The stainless steel
models are also available with a steel bracelet and refined
double folding clasp.
REVOLUTION IN THE ROTOR
Let us take a closer look at the new calibre
series CFB A2000, which offers a glimpse
of what the engineers’ imagination has in
store, as it can be used in a variety of models
and enables new combinations of features.
This new movement draws its energy from
a double-sided self-winding mechanism
with a peripherally arranged rotor (hence
the name of the new Manero model).
Carl F. Bucherer was the first manufacturer to put this design
principle into series production with the calibre CFB A1000,
consequently adapting the construction design to the new movement series. With its linear design, it is characteristic of Carl F.
Bucherer both from an aesthetic and technical viewpoint. The
Geneva stripes adorning the movement’s bridges and balancecocks are a tribute to Swiss watchmaking tradition.
Manero Flyback
In order to maintain consistently high accuracy, the watchmakers focused on a completely free breathing balance-spiral
that undergoes no change in its effective length. The motion
of the watch is calibrated exclusively using pivotable masselottes. These are small weights that sit on the four balance
arms and control the inertia of the balance, which oscillates
at 4 Hz or 28,800 vibrations per hour. This, in turn, guarantees
the movement precise rate stability.
The CFB A2000 is a universally applicable movement. Its basic
structure was designed so that it can be incorporated into even
more future models including ladies’ watches. Because of its
impressive rotation momentum, this automatic movement is
destined to drive a wide range of additional functions under
devlopment in the watchmaker’s own development workshops. Thus, this new movement is merely making its debut in
the new Manero Peripheral.
sen to seize this opportunity to put itself into motion and refine
its whole brand identity.
At this Baselworld edition, the traditional Swiss manufacturer
presents a distinctly golden evolutionary look, paying tribute
both to the heritage and personality of Carl F. Bucherer and
to the baroque influences in architecture that mark the brand’s
hometown, Lucerne. An approach meant to be lavish and discreet at the same time.
“Carl F. Bucherer has a very distinct heritage that sets us apart
from other brands. With this evolutionary look we are reshaping
these roots for the future,” states Sascha Moeri. “The root of all
is the personality of Carl F. Bucherer, a visionary and bold entrepreneur. His artistic talent and pioneering spirit laid the groundwork for
what the brand represents today: an authentic brand that is deeply
rooted in the cosmopolitan and exuberant spirit of Lucerne.”
A SPORTY 2016
UNDER GOLDEN AUSPICES
One more thing, as the late Steve Jobs would say… So far,
we have understood that the Manero Peripheral is not just
“any” new timepiece, due to its innovative movement, setting
up for future promises. Similarly, the timing of the movement’s
release has been carefully calculated. Carl F. Bucherer has cho-
Carl F. Bucherer also comes to Baselworld with a series of novelties in almost all of its collections. Beyond the new Peripheral, the
brand introduces the Manero Flyback. The chronograph newcomer for 2016 features the calibre CFB 1970, which is controlled
by a gearwheel and also provides a flyback function, allowing
multiple time intervals to be measured in quick succession. u
WATCH AFICIONADO
| ALL EYES ON… | 5
Patravi TravelTec Black
Patravi TravelTec II
The automatic chronograph movement is housed inside a classic round case, 43 mm in diameter, and is available in rose gold
or stainless steel, perfectly complementing the elegant Manero
series. The polished push buttons controlling the chronograph
function not only emphasise the classic character of the watch,
they are also highly functional with their large surface area.
The two sub-dials for the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the
stop minute at 3 o’clock are recessed and combine with the
surrounding raised border adorned with a tachymeter scale
to underline the three-dimensional quality of the dial design.
Another sporty watch is the GMT chronograph Patravi
TravelTec Black, in deep matt black, distinguished by its
three time zones and a robust DLC coating. The main feature
of the watch is of course its imposing black colour, which
emphasises the diamond-like-carbon finish on the stainless
steel case and wristband. The striking design is rounded off
with a black dial offering a clear display of contrasting lightcoloured counters, indices, and scales. Two time zones are
visible on the dial. The third time zone is displayed via a red
24 hour-hand on a rotating bezel.
BLACK… AND WHITE
In the same family, the Patravi TravelTec II, which was
presented last year, now gleams in rose gold and blackened titanium. The highly vibrant color combination between
the case in warm rose gold and a case back and pushers
in lightweight titanium is rounded off by a black dial and a
black strap. Measuring 47.4 mm in diameter, the enormous
rose gold case has a bold presence…
6 | ALL EYES ON… | WATCH AFICIONADO
Patravi ScubaTec
The chronograph function in combination with three time
zones, a specialty of the TravelTec family, is integrated into
the case and can be seen through a lateral viewing window.
The pusher at 10 o’clock adjusts the rotating bezel with a 24hour scale beneath the sapphire crystal: depending on whether
the wearer is travelling west or east, the 24-hour ring can be
moved forward or backward in one-hour steps.
When passing midnight, the date also changes both forward
and backward. The second time is indicated by the 24-hour
hand and the fixed outer bezel, while the third combines the
24-hour hand with the rotating bezel mentioned above. The
24 time zones and associated reference cities are engraved
on the base, with Lucerne, the hometown of Carl F. Bucherer,
representing Central European Time (CET).
Last but not least in the same collection, the Patravi ScubaTec
model is as of now available in a 36 mm case. Contrary to the
black colour trend that is incarnated in the Patravi TravelTecs,
this model is dressed entirely in white. A white rubber strap
complements the white dial and white ceramic bezel; a more
discreet, slender stainless steel bracelet is also available.
Despite its slim look, the watch’s robust stainless steel case can
withstand pressures to a depth of 200 m.
The new Patravi ScubaTec illustrates its connection with the
ocean through the wave pattern adorning its dial. The twelve
raised hour-markers, all three hands, and the 12 o’clock marker
on the bezel are all coated with Super-LumiNova. The watch is
equipped with the automatic CFB 1950 movement. The rotating dive ring in stainless steel indicates dive and decompression
times. For safety reasons, it can only be turned counter-clockwise,
ensuring the wearer knows when it’s time to surface.
Pathos Swan
THE SWAN, SYMBOL OF LUCERNE
Also a ladies’ watch, but linked to a lake (or rivers of diamonds)
rather than oceans, the Pathos Swan showcases the watchmaker’s long expertise in creating haute joaillerie watches.
Precisely 922 diamonds and sapphires adorn the case, dial and
strap of this sophisticated ladies’ watch.
Many cultures regard the swan as a symbol of purity, elegance,
love, and beauty, and it is also emblematic of Lucerne and its
eponymous lake. Above a mother-of-pearl dial, top Wesselton
quality diamonds and sapphires in various blue tones combine
to suggest the image of a swan gliding gracefully over water. The
many facets of the curved case are elegantly expressed by the
gemstone border that follows the shape of the timepiece.
This exclusive watch in the Pathos line (a collection which was
launched in 2014) is available in two variants. In one of them,
the watchstrap and the folding clasp are made entirely from
18-karat rose gold. The second variant offers a combination of
white and rose gold, both of which are 18 karat. Both variants
are produced in a limited edition of 88 pieces and are manufactured exclusively upon request. p
Li Bingbing, new ambassador
The Chinese actress and singer is the new global “face” of Carl F.
Bucherer. A way for the brand to reinforce its message in Greater
China but also in the rest of the world. Indeed, Li Bingbing is
one of the biggest movie stars in China and has also set foot
in Hollywood, where she has played in blockbusters such as
Transformers or Resident Evil. Perhaps even more interestingly for
the brand, she is very active on social media and Carl F. Bucherer
can reasonably count on her influence over millions of followers…
EUROPA STAR ARCADE
WE KEEP THE GOLDEN WHEEL TURNING
WITH OUR NEW MOVEMENT A2000”
Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer, on his brand philosophy, relations with the
distribution networks and growing in a period of economic instability.
What do you expect from 2016?
I think it will be a very exciting year,
because we already have a fantastic five
years behind us: we have quadrupled
our figures since 2010. This year will be
challenging and tough due to the current economic conditions, the wars and
a difficult market environment in key
markets. But we are very well prepared
with a great package of novelties that we
are launching at Baselworld. The Patravi
TravelTec Black is just the beginning…
There is much more: the key is Carl F.
Bucherer’s new manufacture movement.
Its name is CFB A2000, an entire new ca-
8 | EUROPA STAR ARCADE | WATCH AFICIONADO
libre family added to the CFB A1000 family. The beauty of it is that we are not only
talking about one calibre, but a concept, a
whole family that opens up new horizons:
each year, we will be able to come up with
new models drawing on versions of this
homemade peripheral calibre.
What is today’s proportion of models
equipped with your own calibres? And
how much will it increase with the
new movement?
The goal is to steadily increase the proportion of models equipped with our
own calibres. Yet we are proud to be able
to offer very interesting models in the entry price segment of mechanical watches,
so the new calibre family will mainly be
incorporated in the higher and luxury
watch segment. In addition, the new
caliber family allows us to implement the
peripheral rotor calibers also in Ladies
watches. An important development for
us, as we strongly believe that also ladies
watches more and more convince with
outer design and inner values. A concept
that drives all our creations. This strong
development is supported by the establishment of our new state-of-the-art
manufacturing site in Lengnau where we
are substantially investing.
But does it mean that the average price
of your watches will increase, hence
that you are heading more and more
towards Haute Horlogerie?
In 2010 we produced and sold 6,500
pieces over the year. Last year, we sold
more than 25,000 timepieces! This is a
huge growth thanks to the variety of collections that we propose. To answer your
question: on the one hand, the luxury
segment will of course grow immensely
with our new in-house movement with
existing Haute Horlogerie timepieces; on
the other hand, we have also increased
the quantities in the entry-level segment.
Overall, the balance will remain the same
and we will stick to our current retail prices.
Are your expanding the range of collections or rather strengthening the
existing ones?
Strengthening them! We have five collections and in almost all of them will we
be presenting innovations. The first watch
with our new in-house movement will be
the Manero Peripheral, in reference to the
peripheral oscillating mass, which is the
DNA of our calibres. A Flyback will also be
introduced in the Manero line, a beautiful
chronograph in a very classical yet exciting
design. I am especially proud of these
innovations in the Manero collection. In
the Patravi collection, beyond the already
mentioned TravelTec Black, there will be
the Patravi TravelTec II, a bold variation of
the existing model in rose gold. Among
ladies’ watches, we will unveil two Haute
Joaillerie timepieces in the Pathos collection to underline our long-standing jewellery expertise – the Pathos Swan.
What were Carl F. Bucherer’s bestsellers in 2015?
Our key pieces are in the Manero
and Patravi family. Yet every market
has its preferences. In Asia, where they
favour a classical taste, it has been the
Manero timepiece in its various versions,
Perpetual, ChronoPerpetual or Tourbillon.
It’s a similar situation in Europe. While
in the US, the Patravi TravelTec and the
ScubaTec are more in demand. In Russia
and in the Middle East, you find the
same two bestsellers as in the US.
You have been quite active on the boutique side, opening lately in Interlaken
and Dubai. What is the strategy, compared to the channels via traditional
retailers?
We have our own approach and it is a very
important part of our philosophy: we never
want to open a stand-alone boutique on
our own. There are many distributors and
retailers who have helped build the brand
in recent years and we highly value their
support to this day. We don’t intend to offend them by taking all their margins away
from them. It must be the right location and
the perfect local partner – only then will
Carl F. Bucherer open a boutique. Take for
instance Rivoli, our distribution partner in
Dubai, or Bucherer of course in Interlaken.
Building a brand takes enormous efforts,
financially and emotionally. We will never
take an aggressive approach towards the
partners who helped us so much. Our
group is family-owned with family values.
Are you able to identify a general profile of the Carl F. Bucherer buyer?
As I said before, customers in the US or in
China have different preferences. Hence
it is very important to us to follow the
DNA of the brand. And thus it is one factor of the brand’s DNA that attracts all of
our customers: the fact that we are very
exclusive. Indeed, very few people will
possess one of our watches: in 2016, we
will serve a community of only 30,000
people. It is this exclusivity, together with
the pursuit to express one’s individuality
that mark the Carl F. Bucherer client.
What is the entry price at Carl F. Bucherer?
Can we buy it as a first watch?
We do offer interesting mechanical watch
models in the entry-level segment, yet
someone who wants to purchase his or
her first mechanical watch will most probably go for what their friends buy. Once
they have become an aficionado, and have
learned about manufacturing qualities,
movements and other details, the educated and experienced watch enthusiast will
go for a Carl F. Bucherer. Then he or she
will want a watch that not everybody else
has on their wrist. We’re addressing these
people - they do not follow trends but set
the trend and have their own style.
What is the split between male and
female customers?
OBJECT
ZAI SKI
The Swiss ski producer
Zai is our cooperation
partner with whom
we share the love for
exquisite materials
and craftsmanship.
They mastered to
incorporate stone
and carbon in
their skis and thus
created very exclusive
products. Similar to
Carl F. Bucherer the
production process is
fully handmade with a
wanted limited output.
And the joy of racing
down the slope with
Zai skis – incredible!
(Sascha Moeri)
The split today is 60% men’s and 40%
women’s watches. Ladies’ watches have
always been an important part of our
history as we launched the first Art Déco
ladies’ collection back in 1919. Lately
the new Pathos collection has further
strengthened this segment.
What do you think about the arrival
of connected watches?
It is a very important market and I am
happy to see so many Swiss brands
investing a lot in R&D. That way the Swiss
watch industry stays strong, innovative
and competitive. There is certainly a market need for these products. However, our
customers are looking for different values
in a watch such as sustainability, handmade details in materials and also simply beauty of watch design. They might
already possess a connected watch but
do not expect one from Carl F. Bucherer.
It is rather the opposite and they would
even be disappointed if we follow a trend.
Moreover, if we were to do something in
the connected area, it should be really
unique. We should not copy anyone. p
WATCH AFICIONADO
| EUROPA STAR ARCADE | 9
BRANDS
AFTER-SALES SERVICE
THE MANUFACTURE WITHIN
A MANUFACTURE
Patek Philippe’s famous
slogan, “You never actually
own a Patek Philippe, you
merely look after it for the
next generation,” places its
creators under something
of an obligation to put
those words into practice.
If not, this dogmatic
declaration would be just
another advertising cliché.
I thought the best way
to find out whether this
promise of longevity had any
substance was to go and see
first-hand how a company
like Patek Philippe manages
its after-sales service.
I was not disappointed.
In fact, I was blown away.
B
RESTORATION BY EAR
by Pierre Maillard, Europa Star
“
We will take on anything, and I do
mean anything, made since 1839,
provided it is signed Patek, Czapek
& Cie – Fabricants à Genève, Patek &
Cie – Fabricants à Genève, Philippe &
Cie or Patek Philippe. Everything in our
current collections is handled by our aftersales service, and the rest goes to our
restoration department,” explains our
guide Jan-Philip Senger, who joined the
company in 1964. As he speaks, he gesticulates towards the benches where a
hundred or so watchmakers are working.
10 | BRANDS | WATCH AFICIONADO
king secrets that have been lost forever.
Here, however, these trade secrets are
proudly passed on. When it comes to
restoring or rebuilding the spindle of a
gear-train that was cut out by hand not
long after 1839, there’s no CNC machine
that’s up to the task.
C
Every discipline is represented: watchmaker, watch-repairer, restorer, escapement
maker, timing adjuster, pivot maker, jeweller, polisher, micro-technician, assembler,
case-fitter and quality controller. All the
branches of a complete manufacture are
here under one roof. This Patek Philippe
department is more than just a factory: it
is also a repository of watchmaking lore.
People sometimes say that the cemeteries
of the Vallée de Joux are full of watchma-
Let’s meet Franck Pernet, one of the ‘stars’
of this workshop, which is probably
unique in the world. Despite his work
demanding an almost Buddhist degree
of concentration, he becomes garrulous
and animated as he describes his job with
infectious enthusiasm. “When I’m drilling pivots on the lathe all my senses are
heightened. I listen to the metal, I hear the
sound change with each micron, and it’s
my ears that tell me when it’s right, when
it’s time to stop.” Rebuilding spindles and
gears is the basis of all restoration work.
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
Everything begins with the gear train,
the fundamental moving part, which is
the most subject to wear and oxidisation. “Right up to the start of industrialisation each handmade watch was, to
all intents and purposes, a unique piece.
Standardisation only came in gradually.
In order to restore or rebuild a timepiece
you have to, in a way, retrace the steps
of the person who made it, a century or
more ago.” No sooner has he finished
his explanation than he turns back to his
bench to demonstrate the use of the bow.
We are told it takes ten years or more
to master the lathe – an invention that
has been traced back to Ancient Egypt in
1300 BC – with the hair’s-breadth precision necessary. But however ancient it
may be, the lathe is by no means obsolete. Once set in motion with the bow or
motor, it is capable of performing actions
that are invisible to the naked eye, so
infinitesimally fine that only the ear, the
eye (aided by a loupe) and the hand of
the craftsman can detect them.
Surely there can’t be too many people left
who master these techniques? “When
I arrived, 22 years ago, there were two
generations. Now, there’s just one, and
I’m currently training up two new young
lathe turners!” he says proudly. “But we
work as a team. All the different disciplines have their role to play.”
150 YEARS’ WORTH
OF SPARE PARTS
There are not many people who know
how to use a depthing tool compass,
which measures the distance between
a gear and the adjacent pinion, or operate a mandrel lathe (which, despite its
rudimentary appearance, makes it possible to increase the precision of placing gears, pinions and escapements in
three dimensions), or perform chamfering, knowing which particular wooden
or metal file to use, or the bevelling
and polishing of plates and bridges,
flat polishing or rounding, or countless
other skills, some of which very nearly
disappeared without trace.
Here, the tools and the activities that go
with them are carefully husbanded, like
a living treasure. And a second treasure
is to be found close by, in the ranks of
cupboards, cabinets and miniature wooden drawers. “The enormous advantage
B Dial
C Stocks of old
components
D Wheel blanks
E Pivot making
F Balance pivot
control
G Control wheel
pivot centring
H Driving in of
balance pivot tool
I Balance setting
J Balance adjusting
K Wheel flat control
L Toothing machine
u
WATCH AFICIONADO
| BRANDS | 11
M
N
O
P
Q
R
M Hands
N Hand pivot
making
O Hand polishing
P Winding
mechanism arbor
S
Q Winding
mechanism
adjustment
R Oxidised
movement
S Manual polishing
T Hand-drawn plans
12 | BRANDS | WATCH AFICIONADO
T
we have is that Patek Philippe has operated continuously since its creation, and
we have never thrown anything away.
Our drawers are filled with period components which were deliberately produced
in excess, blanks dating back decades,
which we are now finishing today. It
means we can meet 90% to 95% of our
restoration requirements. If anything is
missing, we make it. You should also be
aware that every watch made by Patek
Philippe is catalogued in our archives.
Using the serial numbers of the cases and
movements we can keep track of the history of each watch. We call this the ‘carnet
de santé’ or health record,” notes JanPhilip Senger. “We have 150 years’ worth
of components, which is 6 to 8 million
parts,” he adds. “It’s extremely expensive
to keep these stock levels, not to mention
all the tools, but it’s a priceless asset!”
Alain Battmann, former head of the
Restoration Workshop (he still works
there, seemingly disinclined to leave)
explains how the workshop’s structure
evolved. “Before, the department was
called watch repair, but after the incredible boom of the early 1990s, when
thousands of people suddenly seemed
to realise that their grandfather’s old
Patek Philippe might actually be worth
something, we were inundated with
watches. That was when we split the
workshop into two parts: one for everything from 1839 to 1970, and the
other from 1971 to the present day.”
He goes on to explain the procedure.
“We examine the piece and start by
cleaning it up, dismantling it, keeping
as many components as possible, evaluating what can be kept and what
needs to be replaced, and we draw up
an estimate. Once we have been given
the go-ahead we rebuild the gears, rebush the components, give them to the
watchmaker to assemble, repolish the
steel components by hand, lubricate,
get the balance wheel/hairspring in
working order, and make adjustments.
The same goes for the case: we replace
the crown, refurbish or rebuild the dial,
polish and check everything over, both
before and after the movement is replaced in the case, which comes to 2 x
18 days for checking alone...”
THE TRACES OF TIME
Watch restoration, like architecture,
has its schools of thought: some feel it
is better to leave some evidence of the
passage of time, others want their timepiece to look like new. At Patek Philippe,
the rule is to change as few components
as possible, in order to leave the piece
in its original, historic, condition. Twenty
years ago many collectors thought differently, and it was usual for watches
to be completely repolished. Today, it
seems, collectors prefer their timepieces
to retain some trace of their past. But
whatever the aesthetic, Patek Philippe
always seeks to leave the watch as
close as possible to its original state. For
example, the pinion axles are always the
first thing to go. Generally, thanks to the
extensive inventory, the watchmakers
in the workshop can make them from
semi-finished blanks. But if a particular
blank no longer exists, they redesign this
minuscule component and insert it into
the original sprocket wheel.
The same goes for the case. The ‘manufacture within a manufacture’, which
is equipped with every machine that
could possibly be needed, is capable of
rebuilding anything, as well as soldering, filling and polishing. The service is
necessarily personalised because, as the
watchmaker at his bench points out,
“Every watch has led a different life, it
has passed through the hands of different owners, sometimes been ‘repaired’ more or less carefully on the other
side of the world... Each watch has its
own face, its own personality, its own
emotion, if I can put it like that.” p
MEETING
WITH
Laurent Cantin is Patek
Philippe’s friendly and
approachable Director
of International Client
Services, and he is clearly
passionate about his work.
He told us more about how
the company organises its
international service centres.
How do you structure your training
programmes, here in Geneva and in
your international service centres?
Does Patek Philippe consider its customer service department a profit centre?
It’s not uncommon to hear about very
long waiting times for servicing.
No, absolutely not. We don’t even break
even, and what we charge often doesn’t
cover the actual costs. We lose money,
but our absolute priority is customer
satisfaction. In order to make aftersales service a profit centre you’d have
to industrialise. There’s no industrialisation here. I can’t claim that we have the
best after-sales service in the world, but
we do have unique skills, and any watch
that comes through our hands increases
in value. We have earned our reputation
because of our restoration ethic. There’s
nothing here that’s ‘cobbled together’.
Yes, it can appear to take a long time,
but we fully acknowledge this because it
is justified by our handcrafted approach,
something we are very proud of, and by
the high quality of our workmanship. We
apply the same adjustment and control
criteria as we do for our regular output.
But I can assure you that our clients
understand, and we have very few complaints about waiting times, which can
be anything from one month to a year,
depending on the particular problems of
a given watch, and the condition it’s in.
For instance, we have been sent watches
that have spent quite a long time under
water. Also, whatever the nature of the
work we carry out, the watch is returned
with a twelve-month guarantee.
How do you organise your international service centres?
We have 56 official service centres
around the world, employing around 250
people, two-thirds of whom are watchmakers; the rest deal with administration
and logistics. Last year we performed
84,000 interventions, including 30,000
full services. This figure is growing by 7
to 10% each year, and is far greater than
our annual production [Editor’s note: currently 58,000 pieces].
BRANDS AFTER-SALES SERVICE | INTERVIEW
time, which is not bad at all. Every time a
particular model is discontinued, we produce an additional run of components
to cover our needs for the next 35 to 40
years. It’s expensive, but that’s how it is,
at this level of quality. Having said that,
the quality is also a result of our ongoing
efforts to conserve and develop our most
specialised areas of expertise. As well
as maintaining the continuity of all the
different disciplines, and refurbishing old
machines, we make sure that the human
skills are passed on, by training up young
watchmakers to take over.
Your inventory of spare parts is particularly impressive. Apparently you have
enough to last 150 years.
Yes, we keep everything: components,
diagrams and tools. Our goal – which is
impossible to achieve in practice – is that
nothing should ever be ‘out of stock’. In
fact we achieve this 90% to 95% of the
Our training team is based in Geneva, and
from Level 2 (*) up, everything is done
here. We train 200 people every year, and
the training course is adapted to the mix
of products that the watchmaker will be
dealing with at the branch he comes from.
We also run regular refresher courses.
Whenever a new collection comes out, all
returns come through Geneva for the first
year, sometimes longer. This experience
benefits the entire Manufacture.
And how do you guarantee the quality
of the work carried out at your centres
around the world?
We conduct an audit every year at each
service centre, to evaluate not only the
quality of the repairs they carry out, but
also the standard of their customer service, their communication and the manner in which the pieces are returned to
their owners. Recently we have also
introduced ‘mystery visits’. This point is
not negotiable, because service is one of
Patek Philippe’s ten core values. [Editor’s
note: the full list is independence, tradition, innovation, quality and fine workmanship, rarity, value, aesthetics, service,
emotion and heritage.] p
(*) The four levels
of training:
• Level 1:
Quick Service,
for point-of-sale
watchmakers (1 week)
• Level 2: Simple
quartz and mechanical
calibres (4 weeks)
• Level 3:
Complicated
calibres (4 weeks)
• Level 4: Grand
complications,
4 modules lasting
(3–4 weeks each)
WATCH AFICIONADO
| BRANDS | 13
SIGNALS
700 million?
3.8% drop
Child’s play
Japanese telecommunications
giant KDDI has developed a
smartwatch for children, scheduled to
be released in late March. Kids will be
able to call their parents just by talking
into their wristwatch, and parents will
be notified if their child strays too
far away from home base. (MS
News Now)
Swiss watch exports declined
3.8 % year on year in December
2015, with declining shipments to
Hong Kong – the largest importer
of Swiss watches – mostly to blame.
Exports to Hong Kong fell 21 %
compared to only a 5.5 % drop for
U.S. imports. (Federation of the
Swiss Watch Industry)
According to analytics
firm NetBase, the Apple
Watch has beaten Rolex on
a list of luxury global brands,
as measured by more than 700
million social media mentions
and consumer sentiment for
the brand. (Business
Insider)
Sex sells
A concealed erotic
enamelled and gem-set gold
pocket watch by James Cox of
London sold at auction for $73,200.
The rare 18K yellow gold timepiece
was produced around the year 1775,
and almost doubled its pre-auction
value estimations. (ArtFixDaily)
Rival
Market analysts
estimate Apple’s smartwatch
market share to be anywhere
between 52% and 61% globally,
depending on the report. Whichever
way you slice it, Apple is still without a real rival in smartwatch
market. (Tech Times)
www.watch-aficionado.com is brought to you by Europa Star HBM SA, 25 route des Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland, [email protected]
For full information on Europa Star click on www.europastar.com ABOUT US and CONTACT US