The Paris PDF

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Paris
The cult pocket city guides and mobile
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CITI PRESENTS LUXE CITY GUIDES
www.luxecityguides.com
HOW DOES THE SONG GO?
“I LOVE PARIS IN THE
SPRINGTIME…”
or arrondissements spiraling out like
an escargot from the central 1st. The
legendary Seine River bisects the city
with the urbane ‘right bank’ or rive
droite being north, and the chic, artistic
‘left bank’ or rive gauche being south.
Bienvenue à Paris!
Well, who doesn’t, and for that matter
summer, autumn and winter are pretty
darn good too.
The City of Light shines like a romantic
beacon year round with the finest of
cuisine, fashion, lifestyle and culture,
and yet, this ancient, fascinating and
beautiful city is extremely walkable and
easily navigable with its 20 districts
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LUXE PARIS
Intro
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Drab vs. Fab
LUXE Itineraries
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Blah blah
• E
xcepting Fashion Week, there is
no bad time to visit Paris, but bear in
mind that during peak spring season
the city is swamped and in August the
entire population goes on holiday,
or so it seems.
• C
DG to town: around 45 mins / €50 by
cab; 30 mins / €9,50 by RER train;
or 45-60 mins / €10 by Roissybus.
• E
ven locals carry the fab little red
Plan de Paris métro n’ maps all-in-one.
Pick it up at any news kiosk.
• C
abs are fine for short hops but the
métro is excellent for longer journeys,
buy a one-week ‘carte orange’ pass, or
a ‘carnet’ of ten tickets.
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LUXE PARIS
Intro
• T
he handy Vélib bike scheme has
stations every 300m – €1,7/day,
€8/week via credit card + PIN.
www.velib.paris.fr
• U
n peu de politesse, mes chers, always
bid hello and goodbye when entering
shops, bars and restaurants.
• C
offee: café is espresso, allongé is
long espresso and café crème
(not café au lait) is coffee with milk.
• T
he int’l dialing code for Paris is
+33 1, all local calls begin with 01 and
mobiles with 06. To call emergency
from a cell phone dial 112.
• S
hops, services and restaurants
generally close on Sunday, so use this
day for museums and activities.
• S
ervice is always included, but leave a
small tip by rounding up to the nearest
euro or two.
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
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LUXE Loathes
Drab vs. Fab
LUXE Itineraries
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LUXE INSIDER
Lorenz Bäumer
/
JEWELRY DESIGNER
Legendary haute jewelry designer Lorenz
is famed for his spectacular one-off
pieces utilizing rare and precious stones,
which are often inspired by the natural
world. In addition to his custom work and
signature collections, for over 20 years
from his beautiful salon and atelier in the
Place Vendome, he also created exclusive
collections for Chanel, and since 2009
is Artistic Director for Fine Jewellery for
Louis Vuitton.
www.lorenzbaumer.com
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Intro
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LUXE Loathes
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LUXE INSIDER
Lorenz Bäumer
/
JEWELLERY DESIGNER
1) WHAT’S THE ONE THING
EVERY VISITOR TO PARIS
MUST DO AND WHY?
3) WHERE DO YOU GO FOR A
PAMPER SESSION, MASSAGE
OR SPA TREATMENT?
Definitely Place Vendome. It is a
wonderful place to go, a reference in
luxury and especially jewelry. This is
my playground with the view that I
have from my salons. Something I never
get tired of. I also happen to own 150
historic photographs dating back to 1853
of all the special moments recorded on
film from the magic square. Come and
visit the collection on your next journey!
For me there is only Catherine Leroy,
who just opened her spa, 6, rue de la
Trémoille in the 8th arrondissment.
She does acupuncture and massage,
so I love to visit her at the end of a
busy week. I feel totally rejuvenated: a
million years younger!
www.academiecatherineleroy.com
4) WHAT ARE 3 OF YOUR
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS
IN PARIS AND WHY? WHAT
DISHES DO YOU ORDER
AT THESE PLACES?
2) WHAT DO YOU MOST
LOVE ABOUT PARIS
AND WHY?
Paris is the city of inspiration,
museums, amazing craftsmanship…
a city that pushes you beyond normal
boundaries. I am very fond of the
Museé des Arts Décoratifs where
four of my creations are on permanent
display. There is always something
special happening there, that I can
use for my next piece of jewelry.
Reading is another of my passions and
I love to discover new books at Galignani
library, rue de Rivoli where Bertrand
Pizzin gives the best advice.
5) WHAT ARE YOUR THREE
FAVORITE SHOPS IN PARIS
AND WHAT DO YOU LOVE
ABOUT THEM?
My three favorite shops in Paris are
Urban Solutions for the best bikes
in the city, (my favorite means of
transportation for Paris), Plume et Bille
where I find the special Namiki pens
from Japan that I love for writing
notes, and La Maison du Miel for the
most incredible selections of honeys.
Since then we don’t have sugar at
home any more.
www.urbansolutions.fr
www.plumeetbille.com
www.maisondumiel.com
Alain Ducasse in all his special locations:
from the Plaza to Rech to Les Lyonnais.
Kinugawa for Japanese food. Jean-Paul
Hévin for his “tartelette au chocolat” and
Paparazzi for the best pizzas in town.
Paparazzi / 6 Square l’Opéra Louis
Jouvet / +33 1 40 07 92 56
www.alain-ducasse.com
www.kinugawa.fr
www.jeanpaulhevin.com
www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr
www.galignani.coms
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LUXE PARIS
Intro
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Drab vs. Fab
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LUXE Loves
MURIEL GRATEAU
LE SEVERO
LE ROYAL MONCEAU
Shopping
Dining
Hotel
Divine and dramatic, but simple
porcelain tableware, plus a rainbow
of fine linens and staggeringly chic
jewelry. Muriel’s eye is always flawless
and her monochrome store a magnet
for the city’s most stylish denizens.
Considered by many to be home
of the city’s best steak frites,
this no-faff street-corner bistro is
adored by locals and visitors alike
for its 5-10 week-aged, perfectly
prepared steaks, delicious tartare,
chunky hand-cut frites, tasty
charcuterie starters, good bread
and a selection of mostly biodynamic
and organic boutique wines.
C’est magnifique!
This Raffles-run glory-bower has
been touched with the Starck stick,
and strikes firmly on the luxe gong
with a très contempo ring. Choose
from Il Carpaccio, Le Cuisine and Le Bar
Long and you’ll be well fed, watered
and left feeling awfully exclusive.
37 rue de Beaune, 7th / M: Rue du Bac
+33 1 40 20 42 82
www.murielgrateau.com
37 avenue Hoche, 8th / M: Ternes
+33 1 42 99 88 00
www.leroyalmonceau.com
8 rude des Plantes, 14th
M: Mouton Duvernet
+33 1 45 40 40 91 / closed Sat-Sun
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L’HÔTEL
RALPHS
LA MAISON GUERLAIN
Hotel
Dining
Spa
Hark back to the glamorous days of
yore in this decadent haven of gothic
campery and tromp l’oeil that’s been
seducing the bohemian Left Bank set for
over 200 years. Dine at Michelin-starred
Le Restaurant, imbibe at moody Le Bar,
and take a dip in the private hammam
pool just big enough for two. Romance!
Fight for a summer terrace perch
or clubby salon table at Mr. Lauren’s
dandy paean to American classic
comfort cooking. It’s terribly BCBG,
but it’s terribly lovely whether at
lunch or supper.
All that Champs-Élysées retail and
picture-snapping is likely to have
led you to a severe case of shopper’s
shoulder. Never fear, the glittery,
Putman-designed Guerlain flagship and
its elegant spa can be found right in
the thick of it. Plush, 1930s-style booths
are where your salvation lies.
13 rue des Beaux-Arts, 6th
M: St-Germain-des-Prés
+33 1 44 41 99 00
173 boulevard St Germain, 6th
M: St-Germain-des-Prés
+33 1 44 77 76 00
www.ralphlaurenstgermain.com
68 ave des Champs-Élysées, 8th M:
George V / +33 45 62 52 57
www.guerlain.com
www.l-hotel.com
SUR MESURE
Activity
Is there a more celestial (and romantic)
chapel on the planet? The utterly
adorable C.13th upper chapel with its
ravishing stained glass is breathtakingly
exquisite. Try to go on a sunny day for
maximum intake of breath.
4 boulevard du Palais, 1st
M: Cité / +33 1 53 40 60 80
Mar-Oct 9.30am-6pm, Nov-Feb 9am-5pm
closed daily 1-2pm
www.sainte-chapelle.monumentsnationaux.fr
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NISSIM DE CAMONDO
Dining
SAINTE-CHAPELLE
Step into this white on white spaceship
for a galactic molecular ride through
all the latest techniques in 2 Mich-starred
chef Thierry Marx’s prolific repertoire.
Yes, there is faffy foam, but Marx’s
devotion to healthy living is reflected
in clean, sparkling flavors and
imaginative pairings like bean sprout
and truffle risotto.
251 rue St-Honoré, 1st / M: Tuileries
+33 1 70 98 73 00 / closed Sun-Mon
Activity
A wander around this truly beautiful
house, complete with its original
collection of C.18th art, furniture and
antiques, offers a unique glimpse into
the past. A fascinating little time capsule.
63 rue de Monceau, 8th
M: Monceau / +33 1 44 55 57 50
10am-5.30pm / closed Mon-Tue
www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr
www.mandarinoriental.com
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MERCI
LES DEUX MAGOTS
Shopping
Dining
Shop with a clear conscience at this
delightful concept store featuring a
vintage book café, home furniture and
fragrance, plus new/vintage togs for
kids and grownups with profits going
to charity.
No Saint-Germain-des-Prés sojourn
would be complete without a swish
by this beloved roadside café home of
famously rich and indulgent, waistlinedestroying hot chocolate. The pretty
mid-shop pitstop also affords fabulous
people watching opportunities, so pop
on your biggest Chanel shades and
get scoping!
111 boulevard Beaumarchais, 3rd
M: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart
Mon-Sat 10am-8pm / +33 1 42 77 00 33
EXPERIMENTAL
COCKTAIL CLUB
6 place Saint-Germain-des-Prés
M: St-Germain-des-Prés
+33 1 45 48 55 25
www.merci-merci.com
Bar
Tiny, sexy, young and funky, with
plush, chandeliered vibe and tempting
drinks list, the ECC is a laboratory of
fine and rare spirits served with a little
tongue-in-chic, and a heck of a lot of flair.
37 rue Saint-Sauveur, 2nd / M: Sentier
+33 1 48 08 88 09 / 5pm-5am
www.experimentalcocktailclub.com
www.lesdeuxmagots.com
LE CHATEAUBRIAND
Dining
Gastro-vivants sell their kids for
seats in Iñaki Aizpitarte’s vibrant,
exciting, experimental bistro. If you
like adventure and the unknown on
your plate, then book well ahead.
129 avenue Parmentier, 11th
M: Goncourt / +33 1 43 57 45 95
closed Sun-Mon
LE MEURICE
Lunch
Alléno and Starck have turned this
crystal, marble, gilt and mirror salon
into one of the city’s most fought-for
tables, but you will need to be sitting
down when the bill comes. That said,
the prix fixe lunch is the best value
in town.
228 rue de Rivoli, 1st / M: Tuileries
+33 1 44 58 10 55 / closed Sat-Sun
www.lemeurice.com
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LUXE PARIS
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LUXE Insider
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Drab vs. Fab
LUXE Itineraries
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TAXIS
SUNDAY
PRICES
You’ve got more chance of hailing a
pelican in Paris. If you are lucky enough
to get one, your next realization will be
that friendly cab drivers are as rare as
friendly waiters.
Shops, services and a good many
restaurants are closed on Sunday –
quell insanity is this?
€35 for a martini in hotel bars?
C’est du vol organisé! Be prepared
to hemorrhage cash.
SERVICE
Any chance of getting my order before
I expire? Probably not, and especially
not if you’re not French.
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LUXE PARIS
Intro
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LUXE Insider
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LUXE Loathes
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MUSEUM PASS
EIFFEL TOWER
LUNCH
You will of course wish to visit the
Louvre and Musée d’Orsay but spring,
summer and autumn the queues can be
atrocious, and tempers simmer easily.
Book ahead to get the 2, 4 or 6-day
Museum Pass delivered to your hotel and
you’ll swan straight to the front of the
queue (much to everyone’s annoyance).
It also gains you entry to scores of other
wonderful museums too. Le fab!
You could stand around with the rest of
the milling tourists watching Mr. Eiffel’s
splendid tour de force as it goes through
its nightly spellbinding light show. For
those in the know, the very best way to
witness the spectacle is with a cocktail in
your hand and a grandstand view on the
terrace of the Café de l’Homme. Salut!
Paris hosts some of the world’s most
rarefied dining experiences, but apart
from the eye-watering cost, the sheer
difficulty in reserving a table for dinner
can be infuriating. So, reeducate yourself
to accept lunch as the main meal of
the day and you’ll take full advantage
of the city’s fantastic prix fixe deals,
from magnificent Le Meurice to tiny
Le Comptoir du Relais. Bon appetit!
www.restaurant-cafedelhomme.com
www.museums-of-paris.com
VAUX LE VICOMTE
CUISINE
In a city of such fine food it’s tempting
to simply wander from restaurant to
bistro without ever really knowing the
components of the dishes and the origin
of the ingredients. Step forward Wendy
Lyn, whose fabulous food tours illuminate
and charm in equal measure, and yes, you
get to eat just about everything you see
along the way!
The Museum Pass will help you to avoid
the queues at the Château de Versailles,
but it really can’t protect you from the
abject swarms in spring and summer. If
two’s company, but thirty thousand is a
crowd, why not consider the quieter and
glorious Vaux le Vicomte, the original
inspiration for Versailles. In summer
you can even dine within the candlelit
grounds. Palatial peace!
www.vaux-le-vicomte.com
www.thepariskitchen.com
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LUXE ITINERARY
Romance
What better way to start your day than
in lovely St-Germain-des-Prés with a
steaming cup of the signature, thick hot
chocolate from Les Deux Magots (see
LUXE Loves), followed by a gentle amble
along Rue Jacob’s pretty antique and
décor shops (pop into Ladurée for thigh
defying macaroons), and be sure to stop
off at one of Paris’ best cultural secrets,
the charming little Musée Eugène
Delacroix, for a window into the C.19th
romantic artist’s atelier, home, work and
private garden. For a relaxed, but terribly
good lunch without a reservation be sure
to arrive very early at Le Comptoir du
Relais, or if you’re in the mood for the
chicest cheeseburger in town try your
luck at Ralph Lauren (see LUXE Loves).
Well, you’ve earned a pamper, so off with
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LUXE PARIS
Intro
you to the Six Senses Spa, and relax in
one of their delightful couple’s cocoons.
Rejuvenated? You simply can’t come to
Paris and not shop for beautiful lingerie,
and just a short cab ride away awaits the
incomparable Fifi Chachnil, for undies
with a built in knee-tremble! With your
purchases safely wrapped, make haste
to the heavenly Sainte Chapelle, and
then onto the perfect afternoon tea at
The Four Seasons Hotel Georges V.
Just time for a quick wash and brush
up at your hotel before dusk when you
should take your table for cocktails at
Café de L’Homme (see Drab vs. Fab) to
watch the spectacular Eiffel Tower light
show (every hour on the hour). 20,000
sparkling light bulbs is quite something.
With your magical dinner booked (well in
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LUXE Loves
advance) at Le Meurice (see LUXE Loves),
and a moonlit walk through the close by
Tuileries Gardens to look forward to (or if
you prefer, supper at ravishing Le Grand
Vefours followed by a stroll in the Palais
Royale), the irresistible effect of Paris will
become very apparent.
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Style
Start your stylish day with some of the
finest croissants and baked goods in
the city from famed baker Eric Kayser –
rather handily he has a shop Carré
Rive Gauche at 18 rue du Bac in the
7th arrondissment, just perfect for your
post pastry stroll around the best interior
décor and antique shops in this treasure
chest of a neighborhood. Whatever
you do, don’t miss out on divine Muriel
Grateau (see LUXE Loves), and a visit
to the splendid taxidermist extraordinaire
Deyrolle, quite simply one of our favorite
shops, anywhere. A quick coffee at Hotel
Montalembert if you must, and then taxi
to the joyous Musée des Arts Décoratifs
for its design collections dating from the
Middle Ages to now. Lunch! Huitrerie
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LUXE PARIS
Intro
Regis offers bivalve bliss, and you can eat
in or takeaway. What luck, you’re terribly
close to the beautiful Palais Royale,
and that means vintage shopping and
perfume at the lovely shops of Didier
Ludot and Serge Lutens. An afternoon
visit to the Musée Jacquemart-André
is at once stylish and cultural, but just
as importantly you’ll find a rather good
afternoon tea under the Tiepolo ceiling
of its grand café. For that all important
pre-prandial, it’s difficult to beat the
excellent libations at ECC, before taking
your seat at the ultra fashionable white
on white clad Sur Mesure (see LUXE
Loves) for Thierry Marx’s molecular
marvels. If something a little less formal
is called for, head to Chez l’Ami Jean for
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LUXE Loves
Basque at its best in a boisterous boîte of
chandeliers, zinc and graffiti – don’t miss
the infamous rice pudding with salted
caramel cream and nougatine. Nightcaps?
Mais oui. Two words. Andy Wahloo. Fin!
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Gourmet
Wendy Lyn (see Drab vs. Fab) is the
go-to gal for all things culinary in Paris
including food tours, cooking classes,
market visits and wine tastings, but it’s
also worth seeking out the advice of
Aurélie and Marion at Succulent Paris
who arrange all manner of culinary
delights including food tastings in private
apartments. Prefer to go it alone? No
problem. During the week, one of the
very best places to start is always the
delectable La Grand Épicerie and its
extraordinary seasonal, regional and
international produce. From the ultraluxe food hall specializing in everything,
it’s an easy step to the tiny independent
stores specializing in only one thing. On
you go to nearby 8 rue du Cherche-Midi
in the 6th for the legendary bread of
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LUXE PARIS
Intro
Poilâne, and then follow your nose to
51 rue de Grenelle in the 7th, where it’s
possible to detect the presence of cheese
wonderland Barthélémy even as you
turn into the street. You’ve now got the
makings of a picnic, and where better
to enjoy it than the sylvan surrounds of
the nearby garden at the Musée Rodin.
Chocolate is a subject dear to most
people’s heart and in Paris you’re spoilt
for choice, but for an altogether different
experience grab a cab to the 9th to find
the extraordinary A l’Etoile d’Or at 30 rue
Fontaine, where pigtailed Queen of Candy
Denise Acabo reigns benevolently over
her realm of hand-curated confectionary
and French artisan chocolate. We adore
this store! Or, if you prefer to sit down
for your chocolate fix, try the wicked
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upstairs tearoom at artisanal chocolatier
Jean-Paul Hévin, his alchemical cocoa
will send you loco. Yes, you’ve died and
gone to Hévin! To finish your day, care
for something a little under the radar for
supper? Try the excellent tasting menu at
Verjus. Relaxed and welcoming, this little
restaurant is a bit like attending a great
supper party, or if you prefer it even less
formal, they have a great wine bar with
bites menu too. Lovely!
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The Essentials
ROMANCE
STYLE
• L
es Deux Magots
(see LUXE Loves)
• L
adurée
21 rue Bonaparte
M: St-Germain-des-Prés
+33 1 44 07 64 87
www.laduree.fr
• M
usée Eugène Delacroix
6 rue de Furstenberg
M: St. Germain des Prés
+33 1 44 41 86 50
www.musee-delacroix.fr
• L
e Comptoir du Relais
9 Carrefour de L’Odéon, 6th
M: Odéon / +33 1 44 27 07 97
• R
alph Lauren
(see LUXE Loves)
• T
he Four Seasons Hotel Georges V
31 avenue George V / M: George V
+33 1 49 52 70 00
www.fourseasons.com/paris
• E
ric Kayser
18 rue du Bac / M: Rue du Bac
+33 1 42 61 27 63 / closed Mon
www.erickayser.com
• C
afé de L’Homme
(see Drab vs. Fab)
• M
uriel Grateau
(see LUXE Loves)
• L
e Meurice
(see LUXE Loves)
• D
eyrolle
46 rue du Bac / M: Rue du Bac
+33 1 42 22 30 07
www.deyrolle.com
• L
e Grand Vefours
17 rue de Beaujolais / M: Palais Royal
+33 1 42 96 56 27
www.grand-vefour.com
• P
alais Royale
4 rue de Valois / M: Palais Royal
+33 1 42 96 15 35
www.hotel-paris-palaisroyal.com
• S
ix Senses Spa
3 rue de Castiglione / M: Tuileries
+33 1 43 16 10 10
www.thewestinparis.com
• D
idier Ludot
24 Galerie Montpensier
M: Palais Royal / +33 1 42 96 06 56
www.didierludot.fr
• S
ainte Chapelle
4 boulevard du Palais / M: Cité
+33 1 53 40 60 80
www.sainte-chapelle.monumentsnationaux.fr
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LUXE PARIS
Intro
• M
usée des Arts Décoratifs
107 rue de Rivoli / M: Tuileries
+33 1 44 55 57 50
www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr
• H
uitrerie Regis
3 rue Montfaucon / M: Mabillon
+33 1 44 41 10 07
www.huitrerieregis.com
• F
ifi Chachnil
231 Rue Saint-Honoré
M: Tuileries / +33 1 42 61 21 83
www.fifichachnil.com
P13
• H
otel Montalembert
3 rue Montalembert / M: Rue du Bac
+33 1 45 49 68 68
www.hotel-montalembert.fr
• S
erge Lutens
142 Galerie de Valois
M: Palais Royal / +33 1 49 27 09 09
www.sergelutens.com
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The Essentials
STYLE
GOURMET
• M
usée Jacquemart-André
158 boulevard Haussmann
M: St. Philippe du Roule
+33 1 45 62 11 59
www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com
• W
endy Lyn
[email protected]
www.thepariskitchen.com
• E
CC
(see LUXE Loves)
• S
ur Mesure
(see LUXE Loves)
• C
hez l’Ami Jean
27 rue Malar / M: La Tour-Maubourg
+33 1 47 05 86 89
www.lamijean.fr
• A
ndy Wahloo
69 rue des Gravilliers
M: Arts et Métiers
+33 1 42 71 20 38
www.andywahloo-bar.com
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Intro
• S
ucculent Paris
33 rue de Tocqueville
M: Malesherbes / +33 1 40 53 95 87
www.succulent-paris.com
• L
a Grand Épicerie
38 rue de Sévres
M: Sevres-Babylone
+33 1 44 39 81 00
www.lagrandeepicerie.fr
• M
usée Rodin
79 rue de Varenne / M: Varenne
+33 1 44 18 61 10 / closed Mon
www.musee-rodin.fr
• A
l’Etoile d’Or
30 rue Pierre Fontaine / M: Blanche +33
1 48 74 59 55
• J
ean-Paul Hévin
231 rue Saint-Honoré / M: Tuileries
+33 1 55 35 35 96
www.jeanpaulhevin.com
• P
oilâne
8 rue du Cherche-Midi
M: Saint Sulpice / +33 1 45 48 42 59
www.poilane.com
• V
erjus
52 rue de Richelieu
M: Bourse / +33 1 42 97 54 40
www.verjusparis.com
• B
arthélémy
51 rue de Grenelle
M: Rue du Bac / +33 1 42 22 82 24
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LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Drab vs. Fab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
®
Your LUXE notes
2014.02.17
P15
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LUXE PARIS
Intro
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Drab vs. Fab
LUXE Itineraries