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Acknowledgements & Sources Including bibliography and picture credits Philip Cornwel-Smith thanks: Notes on Sources John Goss for his friendship, eye and know-how; Alex Kerr for his, mentoring, editing and preface; MR Narisa Chakrabongse, Paisarn Piemmettawat, Fon and all at River Books; designer Holger Jacobs, and researcher Chatchai Ngoenprakairat. For help on this edition, I also thank Marc Pachter, Howard Richardson, Rune Kippervik, Xavier Comas, Tang Fu Kuen and Paravi Wongchirachai. I give a wai to the book’s advisors, ajahns Vithi Phanichphant, Paothong Thongchua, Piriya Krairiksh and Anucha Thirakanont. And I greatly appreciate its advocates, notably: TCDC; Kong at a day; Chuck Sutyla; Nilobol Phanichkarn; Eric Booth at Jim Thompson; and for the Very Thai exhibition, Allan Namchaisri, Shane Suvikapakornkul and ZEN. Many thanks to all interviewees and those who supplied information, pictures and help, including: Inthira, Patpong and Preyamon Thanavisuth; Saran Mahasupap; Prasert Jermjuthitham; Irwin Cruz; Mill Pichet; Kathareeya Jumroonsiri; Manod Soising; Chamsai Jotisalikorn; Somtow Sucharitkul; Momoko Ueda; Phatarawadee Phataranawik; Phimphimon Phim-ngam; Gregory Galligan; Nat Prakobsantisuk; Pradit Prasartthong; Navamintr Vitayakul; Jennifer Gampell; and Pariwat Anantachina. For inspiration from my eight years as founding editor of Bangkok Metro magazine, I raise a glass to my colleagues, notably John Twigg, Ian Crawshaw and Howard Richardson. I express my deep gratitude to my family and friends for their support and understanding. I also wish to recognise those who archive and report on popular cuture, especially the Bangkok Post, Nation and BK. And finally, khob khun krub to the Thai people for such great material. Listed on p313-4 are credits for quotes from articles and from books in the Bibliography on p312. I have included some further reading and online sources, right. Other quotes are from my interviews. Quotes cited by others are credited under the speaker’s name. Thais are listed by first name. A few quotes were edited for clarity or brevity. Facts and stats come from published reports. I apologise for any errors or omissions. John Goss thanks: Philip for his vision, encouragement, and humor; our dream publishers, MR Narisa Chakrabongse and Paisarn Piemmetawat at River Books; designer Holger Jacobs; Alex Kerr for kind words always; Amarin Ratanarat for his patient support, artistic eye, and driving beyond the call of duty; Joe Moe; Robert Hori; Robert McLeod; Toshie and Takaki Urabe; Mai; William Meyer; Eric Allyn; Saksit; Supot and Mian; Asana; Tawan; Tor; Ajarn Saji; all at Emerald Thai and Sunshine; and Tom Coughlin. 312 Acknowledgements & Sources Picture Credits JG PCS John Goss Philip Cornwel-Smith AC ADM AR ET EX FWC GMM HG HSP JG JT M-KBJ M-SB MBMN NP O PA PJ PP RK SMP SYL TCDC TKC TR TT TV ZEN Ad Carabao a day Amarin Ratanarat ElleThailand X-act Co Ltd Fantasia Wedding Ctr GMM Grammy H Gallery HiSoParty.com Jennifer Gampell Jim Thompson Thai Silk M etro, by Karl Brian Jell M etro, by Somtop Brommanop Mae Baan Mee Nuad Nation Photo Orange Pariwat Anantachina Prasert Jermjuthitham Paisarn Piemmattawat Rune Kippervik Sony Music Pictures Syllable TCDC Tamniab Kai Chon Thai Rath Thailand Tatler True Visions ZEN department store Bibliography BOOKS Algie, Jim, Bizarre Thailand (Marshall Cavendish, 2010). Allyn, Eric, Trees in the Same Forest (Bua Luang, 1991). Anuman Rajadhon, Essay on Thai Folklore (DK, 1969); Popular Buddhism in Siam (Sathirakoses Nagapradipa Foundation, 1986). Apinan Poshyanonda, Modern Art in Thailand (Oxford Uni Press, 1992). Askew, Marc, Bangkok: Place, Practice & Representation (Routledge, 2002). Barmé, Scot, Woman, Man, Bangkok: Love, Sex & Popular Culture in Thailand (Rowman & Littlefield, 2002). Bell, Barry, Bangkok: Angelic Allusions (Reaktion Books, 2003, UK). Beurdeley, Jean-Michel, Thai Forms (Weatherhill, 1980). Blenkinsop, Philip, The Cars That Ate Bangkok (White Lotus, 1996). Chaleo Manilerd, Dr, Thai Customs & Beliefs (ONCC, 1988). Chamsai Jotisalikorn, Classic Thai (Periplus, 2002); Thai Spa Book (Periplus, 2003). Clewley, John, World Music: The Rough Guide (Rough Guides, 2000). Chompoo Trakullertsathien in Rare Breed (Post Books, 2002). Cohen, Erik, The Commercialized Crafts of Thailand (Curzon, 2000). Cordero-Fernando, Gilda, Pinoy Pop Culture (Bench, 2001). Cummings, Joe, World Food: Thailand (Lonely Planet, 2000); Sacred Tattoos of Thailand (Marshall Cavendish, 2012). Dictionary of South & Southeast Asian Art (Silkworm Books, 2000). Drouyer, Azevedo & René, Thai Magic Tattoos (River Books, 2013). Fang, Sam, Bangkok’s Chatuchak Weekend Market (Sam Fang, 1988). Graham, Mark, Thai Wood (Finance One, 1997). Grossman, Nick, ed. 9 Days in the Kingdom (EDM, 2009); ed., Chronicle of Thailand (EDM, 2010); with Faulder, Dominic, King Bhumibol: A Life’s Work (EDM, 2012); ed., Thailand at Random (EDM, 2013). Guelden, Marlane, Thailand: Into the Spirit World (Asia Books, 1996). Harris, Andrew, Bangkok After Dark (McFadden Books, 1968). Hebdige, Dick, Subculture: The Meaning of Style (Methuen, 1979). Holmes, Henry & Suchada Tangtongtavee, Working with the Thais (White Lotus, 1995). Hopkins, Jerry, Extreme Cuisine (Periplus, 2004); Bangkok Confidential (Periplus, 2005); Bangkok Babylon (Tuttle, 2005), Asian Aphrodisiacs (Periplus, 2007). Hoskin, John, Bangkok by Design: Architectural Diversity (Post Books, 1995); The Supernatural in Thai Life (Tamarind Press, 1993). Ingersoll, Jasper, ‘Merit and Identity in Village Thailand’, in Change and Persistence in Thai Society, ed. G William Skinner & A Thomas Kirsch (Cornell Uni Press, 1975). Jackson, Peter, with Harrison, Rachel, The Ambiguous Allure of the West (Hong Kong Uni Press, 2010); with Cook, Nerida, Genders & Sexualities in Modern Thailand (Silkworm, 1999); with Sinott, Sullivan, Gerard, ed Ladyboys, Tom Boys, Rent Boys (Silkworm, 2000); ed. Queer Bangkok (Hong Kong Uni Press, 2011). Kalak, Thomas, Same Same, But Different (Rupa, 2008). Kam, Garrett, Ramayana in the Arts of Asia (Select, 2000) King, Ross, Reading Bangkok (NUS Press, 2011). Klausner, William J, Reflections: One Year in an Isaan Village (Siam Reflections, 2000); Thai Culture in Transition/Transforming Thai Culture (Siam Society, 1997/2004); Reflections on Thai Culture (Siam Society, 1993). Kukrit Pramoj: His Wit & Wisdom compiled by Vilas Manivat, ed. Steve Van Beek (DK, 1983). Lair, Richard, Gone Astray: The Care and Mgmt of the Asian Elephant in Domesticity (FAO/RAP, 1997). Lockard, Craig, Dance of Life: Popular Music & Politics in SE Asia (Silkworm, 2001). Majupuria, Trilok Chandra, Erawan Shrine & Brahma Worship in Thailand (Tecpress Service, 1993). Making Thai: Everyday Objects of Thailand (Page One, 2006). Manit Sriwanichphoom, text Ing K, Bangkok in Black & White (Chang Phuak Nga Dum, 1999). Melly, George, Revolt into Style: The Pop Arts (Oxford Uni Press, 1989). Mertens, Brian, Architecture of Thailand (EDM, 2009); Bangkok Design (Marshall Cavendish, 2006). Montri Umavijani, Facets of Thai Cultural Life (PR Dept, 1984). Muang Boran, Guide to Muang Boran (Viriah Business, 2001); Old Market Town (Muang Boran, 1992). Mulder, Neils, Everyday Life in Thailand (DK, 1985); Thai Images: The culture of the Public World (Silkworm, 1997). Navin Rawanchaikul, COMM… (S&S, 1999); Sala (Navin, 2008). Nostitz, Nick, Patpong: Bangkok’s Twilight Zone (Westzone, 2000); Red vs Yellow Vols 1 & 2 (White Lotus, 2009 & 2011). Origibet, Jorges, From Siam to Thailand (Kofco, 1982). Pasuk Phongpaichit & Baker, Chris, Thailand’s Boom & Bust (Silkworm, 1998); as Chang Noi, Jungle Book (Silkworm, 2009); A History of Thai-Land (Silkworm, 2009); Khun Chang Khun Phaen transl (Silkworm, 2010). Pasuk Phongpaichit, Sangsidh Piriyarangsan & Nuannoi Treerat, Guns, Girls, Gambling and Ganja (Silkworm, 1999). Peleggi, Maurizio, Lords of Things (Uni of Hawai’i Press, 2002); Thailand: The Worldly Kingdom (Reaktion, 2007); The Politics of Ruins and the Business of Nostalgia (White Lotus, 2002). Pettifor, Stephen, Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art (Thavibu, 2003). Phillips, Herbert, The Integrative Art of Modern Thailand (Lowie Museum of Anthropology, 1991). Pimsai Amranand & Warren, William, Gardening in Bangkok (1970, 1996). Pittaya Homkrailas, Ta Klang: Bibliography 313 The Elephant Valley of Mool River Basin (Pittaya Homkrailas, 2002). Pracha Suveeranond, Thai Identity: From Thai to Thai Thai (Fah Diao Gun, 2012), Design & Culture Vols 1, 2 & 3 (Fah Diao Kun, 2008/09/10); Kae Roy Tua Pim Thai: Tracing Thai Letter Printing, (SC Matchbox, 2002). Quaritch Wales, HG, Divination in Thailand (Curzon Press, 1983). Redmond, Mont, Wondering Into Thai Culture (Redmondian Insight Enterprises, 1998). Reynolds, Craig, National Identity and its Defenders (Silkworm, 2002). Richie, Donald, The Image Factory: Fads & Fashions in Japan (Reaktion, 2003). Ruethai Chaichongrak et al, The Thai House (River Books, 2003). Sakul Intakul, Dok Mai Thai: The Flower Culture of Thailand (Flower Culture, 2009); with Wongvipa Devahasdin na Ayudhya, Tropical Colors (Periplus, 2012). Sanitsuda Ekachai, Keeping the Faith (Post Books, 2001). Segaller, Denis, Thai Ways (Asia Books, 1989). Sharrett, Guy & Ziv, Daniel, Bangkok Inside Out (Equinox, 2004). Journal of Siam Society (Siam Society). Somkid Chaijitvanit, Rare Breed (Post Books, 2002). Sulak Sivaraksa, Siam in Crisis (Thai Inter-Religious Commission for Development, 1990). Sumet Jumsai with R Buckminster Fuller, Naga (Chalermnit, 1997). Suthorn Sukphisit, The 314 Sources Vanishing Face of Thailand: Folk Arts & Folk Culture (Post Books, 1997). TCDC, Creativities Unfold (annual); Isan Retrospective (2005). Thailand Arts Directory (Visiting Arts, 2002). Thompson, David, Thai Food (2002); Thai Street Food (2010). Thongchai Wanichkul, Siam Mapped (Silkworm, 1997). Thongchua, Paothong, Karn Taeng Kaai Thai: Thai Costume (National Identity Board, 1999). Totman, Richard, The Third Sex: Kathoey (Silkworm, 2004). Van Beek, Steve, Bangkok Then & Now (AB Publications, 1999 & 2002); Thailand Reflected in a River (Wind & Water, 2004). Vater, Tom & Aroon Thaewchatturat, Sacred Skin (Visionary World, 2011). Warren, William, Bangkok (Talisman, 2002, London); Spiritual Abodes of Thailand (Times Editions, 2005). Wijit Apichartkriengkrai, 101 Thai Forms (Art4D, 2008). Wongvipa Devahasdin na Ayudhya, Contemporary Thai (Periplus, 2007). Wyatt, David, Siam in Mind (Silkworm, 2002). GUIDES & MAPS Bangkok Art Map (talismanmedia.wix.com). Hargreave, Oliver, Exploring Chiang Mai: City, Valley & Mountains (Within Books, 2002). Lonely Planet Thailand (lonelyplanet.com). Must-See Sights of Bangkok (BTB). Nancy Chandler Map: Bangkok & Chiang Mai (nancychandler.net). Phuket: A Traveller’s Guide (Sarakadee Press, 2002). Rough Guide to Thailand (roughguides.com). Time Out Bangkok (timeout.com). MAGAZINES 2 Magazine (2-mag.com). a day (daypoets.com). Art 4D (art4d.com). Bangkok 101 (talismanmedia.wix.com). Bangkok Metro (1994-2006). BK (bkmagazine.com). City Life (chiangmainews.com). Khit: Creative Thailand (tcdc.or.th). Sarakadee (sarakadee.com). see also Index NEWSPAPERS Bangkok Post (bangkokpost.co.th). Thai Day (2005-6). The Nation (nationmultimedia.com). Online Sources OFFICIAL SITES VeryThai.com RiverBooksBK.com Facebook/VeryThaiBook Twitter/VeryThai/Book, #VeryThai GENERAL & ARCHIVE 2Bangkok.com (news/archive) Bangkok Pundit (asiancorrespondent.com) issues TheBangkokWorld.com (archive) Coconuts Bangkok (bangkokcoconuts.com) topical IsaanRecord.com (issues/ culture) New Mandala (asiapacific.anu. edu.au/newmandala) issues Pantip.com (general Thai portal) Facebook.com/SiameseDust (retro) NotTheNation.com (satire) RichardBarrow.com (issues/culture) Thai-Blogs.com (life/culture) Yornadit Wan Waan (Facebook.com/ย้อนอดีต... วันวาน) retro also see right: Bibliography: Guides, Magazines & Newspapers SELECTED TOPICS AustinBushPhotography.com (food) BangkokGlutton.com (food) Bangkok-Noir.blogspot.com BangkokTourist.com (events/sights) CatAndNat.com (social) CelineJulie.blogspot.com (film) Esan Style (facebook.com/ แบบบ้านๆ) GorsWorld.com (youth) HiSoParty.com (social) Kham Khon Tai Siplor (Facebook. com/คำคม ท้ายสิบล้อ (truck art) Mae Baan Mee Nuad (Facebook .com/ แม่บา้ นมีหนวด) meme MuayThaiFestival.com OhSirin.wordpress.com (food) OpenAirCinema.org Rama 9 Art Museum (rama9art.org) Sak-Yant.com (tattoos) Siam-Society.org (culture) ThaiCinema.org ThaiFestivalBlogs.com ThailandLife.com (youth) Thailand Sandbag (Facebook.com/ กระสอบทรายไทยแลนด์) designs ThaiMiss.com (pageants) ThaiWomanTalks.com (culture) ThaiWorldView.com (culture) TourismThailand.org (TAT) Twitter/MotorcyRubJung (motorsai) WiseKwai.com (film) Sources by chapter BK – BK magazine BP – Bangkok Post Metro – Bangkok Metro TN – The Nation INTRODUCTION Chai-anan, National Cultural Maintenance Act, cited by Reynolds. Pinoy Pop, see CorderoFernando. Pop culture ‘curve’, Y Answers. Anuman Rajadhon, see Folklore. DINNER ON A STICK Korakot Punlopraksa, ‘Eat Like Nym’ column in Bangkok 101. TINY PINK TISSUES Firm cited by Grissarin Chungsiriwat, see Grossman, Random. SUGAR Mallika Khuansathaworanit, ‘A Menu of Nostalgia’ (BK, 21/5/04). INSECT TREATS Pairath Disthabamrung cited by Chompoo in Rare Breed. Pipat Kankharirk cited in ‘Bite the bugs that plague you’ (BP, 09/5/05). Thongchart & Rotjana Nusu cited by Chompoo Trakullertsathien, ‘Bugs on the Menu’ (BP, 22/5/03). Uamdao Noikorn, ‘Insects gain gourmet acceptance’ (BP, 17/10/99). VENDORS Sawong Srimongkhol cited by Supoj Wancharoen, ‘Vendors to return Apec food carts’ (BP, 30/10/03). Suthorn Sukphisit, ‘Classic Dish’ (BP, 3/5/03). SOI ANIMALS Bangkok Post staff, ‘Snake Problem keeps staff busy’ (BP, 31/5/04). Clutterbuck, Martin, The Legend of Siamese Cats (White Lotus, 1998). Thirapat Prayoonsit cited by Apinya Wipatayotin, ‘100 escaped crocodiles “not fierce”’ (BP, 11/10/11). LONGTAIL BOATS & BARGES Anop Phuangkao, cited by Peter Janssen, ‘Troubled Waters’ (TN/DPA, 31/1/12). Pin-Fat, Olivier, ‘River Gypsies’ (Metro,9/94). MOTORCYCLE TAXI JACKETS Bangkok Post letter by ‘BA’, ‘Motorbike races still there en masse’ (BP, 13/10/04). “monthly payment of 42,000 baht” and Chalerm Changthongmadan, cited by Pakawat Sunpituksaree, ‘Wan hits the road to fight gangs extorting motorbike taxi drivers’ (BP, 3/2/12). Sopranzetti, Claudio, cited by Arnaud Dubus, ‘The politics of motorcycle taxis’ (New Mandala, 21/7/10). Dejchat Puangket, cited by Sutthichai Yoon, ‘Thailand’s only motorcycle taxi-cabbie blogger’ (TN, 22/5/09) ‘Insurance for the future’ (TN, 12/9/03). Kosin Hinthao, ‘Register by Friday, drivers told’ (TN, 28/5/03). Piak cited in ‘Bribes, bribes, bribes’ (BP, 4/8/03). Samak Sundaravej cited in ‘Motorcycle-taxi drivers liberated: Samak’ (TN, 24/5/03). Sopon Ongkrara & Preecha Sa-ardsorn, ‘Perils of life in the fast lane’ (TN, 1/4/99). Sunan Khongkaew cited in ‘Rising cost of fuel hits street traders, riders’ (TN, 3/7/05). Wassayos Ngamkham and Manop Thip-osod, ‘Motorcycle taxi jackets symbol of mafia control’ (BP, 26/5/03). Wirawat Watanakul, ‘Cracking Down on motorcyclists’ (BP, 13/9/03). TUK-TUK Surakiart Sathirathai cited by Rungrawee Pinyorat, ‘Fog threatens view of Royal barges’ (TN, 22/7/03). Maekawa Ken-ichi, Three Wheeled Vehicles of SE Asia (Ryokonin, 1999). Sompong Chunharassamee cited by Jimmy Storrie, ‘20th Century Icon’ (Sawasdee, 10/99) FAIRY LIGHTS & NEON TUBES Loubère, Simon de la, cited in Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion (Archipelago Guides, 1994). Neale, Frederick Arthur, see Sumet. SECURITY GUARDS Klausner, William, ‘Power & Hooliganism’ in Reflections. Suthon & CCTV data, Gregoire Glachant & Monruedee Jansuttipan, ‘Bangkok’s Fake CCTV Scandal’ (BK, 29/9/11). BLIND BANDS Amorn Samakkarn cited by Karnchariya Sukrung, ‘Daddy’s Home’ (BP, 4/3/03). Chetana Nagavajara cited by Atiya Achakulwisut, ‘Tale of blind busker a real eye-opener’ (BP, 18/1/03). Jerawat Laowang cited by Kultida Samabuddhi, ‘Almost all career options for blind’ (TN, 23/11/03). Napanisa Kaewmorakot, ‘Blind Street bands find new stage’ (TN, 8/5/03). Nareupol Inkaew cited by Nitida Asawanipont, ‘Breaking down the arts boundaries’ (TN, 12/2/03). Raywat Phongkaew cited by Dasita Amornvivat, ‘Songs of Survival’ (BP, 6/5/05) & by Nattha Keenapan, ‘A melodious living’ (Thai Day, 6/8/05). TRASH RECYCLERS 2009 figures in Shabbir Gheewala, ‘Thai Style Recycling’ (Waste Management World, 12/10/11). Anon Nakornthab, ‘Shopping & Services’ in Time Out Bangkok. Suwandee Chaiwarut cited by Ranjana Wangvipula, ‘Shoppers don’t like the idea of using cloth bags’ (BP, 24/8/03). Urban Community Development Office, ‘Housing People in Asia’ (UCDO, issue 12/4/99). UNIFORMS Nation staff, ‘Tighter the shirt, better the look’ (TN, 21/12/02). Nation staff, ‘We’re being sexually harassed, say police’ (TN, 12/3/03). HI-SO Apiradee Pinthong cited by Pratchaya Pruedthapol, ‘High Society’ (BP, 6/6/97). Sanitsuda Ekachai, ‘It’s not just money for most women’ (BP, 4/3/04). Sources 315 NICKNAMES & NAMECARDS ‘B1bn on whitening creams’ cited by Fall, Oliver, ‘A richer shade of pale’ (Business Report Thailand, 28/11/11). Jumsai name, reported by Theeranuch Pusaksrikit, ‘No hard feelings says Sumet’ (TN, 27/4/03). Thomas Fuller, ‘Thais ask: ‘What’s in a nickname’?’ (International Herald Tribune, 23/8/07). Ziri Sutprasert, ‘The Other Trap of Femininity’ (BP, 3/2/12). MALE GROOMING ‘The City of Angels appears to be well on the way to becoming a Mecca for metrosexuals’ (BP, 2003). Chetana Nagavarjara, ‘Unsex Me Here’ (Warasan Mahawitthayalai Silpakorn 12). Vasu cited by Kreangsak Suwanpantakul, ‘Still Macho’ (TN, 28/9/03). Onsiri Pravattiyagul, ‘Men: The New Women’ (BP, 16/11/03). Pittayaphan cited by Fall, Oliver, ‘A richer shade of pale’ (Business Report Thailand, 28/11/11). KATOEY & TOM-DEE Beer cited by Vitaya Saengaroon, ‘Love for a new age’ (BP, 14/2/12). Bunmi Methangkun, ‘How can people be kathoey?’ (Abhidhamma Foundation, 1986). Chanintorn Prasertprasart cited by Alongkron Parivudhiphongs, ‘The Katoey Connection’ (BP, 13/3/97). Hong Kong University research cited by Patrick Winn, ‘Thailand military: the lovely conscripts’ (Global Post, 8/10/10). 316 Sources Ornapa Krissadee & Dr Seri Wongmontha cited by Alongkorn Parivudhiphongs, ‘Absolutely Fabulous’ (BP, 19/10/02). Pakorn Pimthon cited in ‘Gay volleyballers pack Thai cinemas but remain in the closet’ (AFP). Prempreeda Pramoj na Ayutthaya cited by Aree Chaisatien, ‘Always here’ (TN, 27/6/04). Thanyaporn Anyasiri cited in ‘The Next PM?’ (TN, 13/11/02). Yuan Pumeekiatisak cited by Daniel Gawthrop, ‘Becoming Visible’ (TN, 17/11/02). Sinott, Megan, ‘Masculinity & Tom Identity’ in Jackson, ed, Ladyboys. INHALERS ‘Kat’s Window on Thailand: Personal Hygiene’ (TN, 28/5/01). Chamsai Jotisalikorn, Thai Spa Book. ALPHABET TABLES Klausner, see ‘Thai Personal Pronouns’ in Transition. Anuman, see ‘Thai Language’ in Essay. Pracha Suveeranont, see Kae Roy Tua. CUTE Geraci, Massimiliano, ‘Shattered Childhood’ (Cyberzone magazine, Italy, issue 17, 2003). Gomarasca, Alessandro, ‘Under the Sign of Kawaii’ in The Fourth Sex: Adolescent Extremes (Edizioni Charta, 2003). Richie, Donald, see Image Factory. POODLE BUSHES Alongkorn Parivudhiphongs, ‘Balancing nature and artifice’ (BP, 8/12/95). Pimsai Amranand, see Gardening. POTTED GARDENS Pasuk/Baker, see Khun Chang. Nithinand Yorsaengrat, ‘Thais, trees & the history of gardening’ (TN, 30/3/98). Anuman, see ‘Trees & Plants’ in Essay. FURNITURE FOR FUN Saiyaat Sema-ngoen cited by Suthorn Sukphisit, ‘Sit on this!’ (BP, 19/7/04). Chamsai Jotisalikorn, see Classic Thai. DAY COLOURS Brown, Richard, Ancient Astrological Gemstones & Talismans (AGT, 1995). Anuman, see ‘Sawasdi Raksa’ in Essay. GARUDA Nidhi Eoseewongse, see Sanitsuda. Wisut Busayakul, Garuda (Prime Minister’s Office, 2000). MONK BASKETS Marissa Mahavongtrakul cited in ‘Sangkha Than In Trend: Removes the yellow-bucket image from temples’ (Dhammajak.net, 20/3/09). Natasha Kaufmann cited by Aree Chaisatien, ‘Where Shopping is Sacred’ (TN , 21/10/07). Sunee Tuampuemphol, article on Kong Khao spirit appeasing rite in Sri Racha (BP, 26/4/01). AMULET COLLECTORS ‘40 billion baht’, from Kasikorn Bank Research Centre (2007-8). Chamlong Krutkhunthod cited by Nauvarat Suksamran, ‘Revered monk made unwitting canvasser’ (BP, 9/12/00). Choochart Marksamphan cited by Krisna Chaiyarat, ‘Luck in the Box’ (TN, 27/2/99) and Pongpet Mekloy, ‘This Charming Man’ (BP, 9/8/99). Chutiya & Tik cited by Karnjariya Sukrung, ‘Foreign Fetish’ (BP, 6/6/04). Information, Hoskin, John, ‘Leading a Charmed Life’ (Sawasdee, 7/99). Kamol Sukin, ‘Losing its Charm’ (TN, 26/8/07). Sanitsuda Ekachai, ‘Sale of amulets not so charming’ (BP, 26/11/97). Wasan Potipimpanon cited by Montira Narkvichien, ‘Wasan barters Benzes for Buddha amulets’ (TN, 12/5/03). TAXI ALTARS Sawai Lakwangmol cited by Monruedee Jansuttipan, ‘Crabby Cabbies’ (BK, 17/2/12). Suwit Thongthim cited by Ramona Bohwongprasert, ‘Drivin’ Disco’ (Metro, 10/99). MAGICAL TATTOOS Anuman, see ‘Thai Charms’ in Essay. Cummings, Joe, talk at WordPlay2: Bangkok Literary Festival (24/3/12). & see Sacred Tattoos. Noi & Num cited by Vater. PALAD KHIK Freidman, Bruno, ‘Thai Phallic Amulets’ (Journal of the Siam Society, vol 65 part 2, 1977). Anuman, see ‘Thai Charms’ in Essay. Sanders, Douglas, ‘Palad khik: A phallic amulet tradition moves from simple protection to magic exhuberance’ lecture (Siam Society, 17/3/12). Terwiel, BJ, ‘The Origin and Meaning of the Thai city pillar’ (Journal of the Siam Society, vol 66 part 2, 1978). “those of Luang Phor Luer” cited by Bruno Friedman of UNESCO. TRADE TALISMANS Anuman, ‘Thai Charms’ in Essay. Thanapon Chadchaidee, ‘Essays on Thailand’ (DT Today, 1994). Nation staff, ‘Superstore zoning extended’ (TN, 5/2/03). NANG KWAK Bornoff, Nicholas, ‘Things Japanese’ (Periplus, 2002). Pan Pan Narkprasert, Gagagasmism exhibition (Bangkok Art House, 2011). Anuman, see ‘Thai Charms’ in Essay. Sakharin Krue-on, Nang Kwak: Equal Opportunity? exhibition (Chulalongkorn Art Centre, 2006). Sombat Plainoi, Thai Customs and Beliefs (Office of the National Culture Commission, 1988). Thanapon Chadchaidee, ‘Essays on Thailand’ (DT Today, 1994). LUCKY NUMBER 9 ‘YY9999’ cited by Nattaya Chetchotiros, ‘Businessmen picks up lucky licence plate for 11 million baht at auction’ (BP, 12/2/12). Quaritch Wales, see Divination. FORTUNE TELLERS “1.5 to 2.5 billion baht” from study by Kasikorn Research Centre. Luck, Kengkard & Chuangchom cited by Hookway, James, ‘Political Turmoil in Thailand Boosts Business for Astrologers’ (Wall St Journal, 15/9/08). Bangkokian, ‘If it’s a Pulitzer, I’ll toss fortune cookies’ (BP, 16/8/03). Sungkorn Horharin cited by Karchariya Sukrung, ‘The Art of Tarot’ (BP, 9/10/03). Nidhi Eoseewongse, see Sanitsuda. Phra Dhammapitaka, see Sanitsuda. Vorapan Lauhawilai cited by Tabitha Phillips, ‘Revelations’ (Metro,1/95). MEDIUMS & SHAMANS Brecelic, Tom, ‘Some Enchanted Evening’ (Metro,6/01). Han Raksajit cited by Tom Brecelic, ‘Serial Griller’ (Metro, 10/01), and Benjawan Somsin, ‘Into the world of black magic’ (TN, 21/8/02). Nidhi Eoseewongse, see Sanitsuda. “Who asked you...?” cited by Philip Golingai, ‘It’s confirmed, there’s trouble brewing’ (The Star, 27/12/08). GHOST STORIES Anuman, see Essay & Buddhism. Udon Thani monk cited by Sumet Suwanapruek, ‘Ghost busters hunt entrail-eating bogies’ (BP, 4/6/03). MODERN SHRINES Nidhi Eoseewongse, see Sanitsuda. Nopadol Thithipongpanich cited by Chompoo Trakullertsathien, ‘A new home for the spirits’ (BP, 05/23/96). Nuttamon cited by Karnjariya Sukrung, ‘Looking for love in all the old places’ (BP, 6/6/04). Suluck Visavapattamawong cited by Chompoo Trakullertsathien, ‘A new home for the spirits’ (BP, 5/23/96). TEMPLE FAIRS Subhatra Bhumiprabhas, ‘All the fun of the fair’ (TN, 17/4/97). Suthorn Sukphisit, ‘Let’s go to the fair!’ (BP, 23/9/02); and ‘Magnificent Spirit Calling Ceremony in the North’, see The Vanishing Face. MUAY THAI Amornrit Pramorn cited by Tatpachuen Thaiprasithiporn, ‘Fighting for a vanishing art’ (TN, 25/8/03). Kamol Sukosol, Facebook (2012) Cornwel-Smith, Philip, ‘Thai Boxing Goes International’, (TAT, 11/10). Junlakan, Lesley, Muay Thai: A Living Legacy (Spry Books, 2001). ANIMAL CONTESTS 100,000 songbird collectors, in Tom Atkins, ‘Songbird Competition in Bangkok’ (NowPublic.com, 08/3/09). Fang, Sam, ‘The Cockfight’ see in Fang, Chatuchak Weekend Market. Police Colonel Wichit Nanthawong, ‘Fears dealers released piranhas into canals’ (BP, 30/5/04). GAMBLING Anchalee Kongru, ‘Lizard on its last legs’ (BP, 30/6/01). Chaiwat Pasokpuckdee cited by Theeranuch Pusaksrikit ‘You’ve got to be in it to win it!’ (TN, 20/4/03). Karuna Buakhamsir & Bussarawan Teerawichitainan, ‘The gambling game’ (BP, 24/6/96). Phasuk Phongphaichit, ‘Gambling Industry’ (Centre for Gambling Studies, 1995). Preeyanat Panayanggoor, ‘Lottery “a way of life”, not just gambling’ (BP, 5/6/03). Survey cited by Pradit Ruangdit, ‘Poll: Public against legalising casinos’ (BP, 10/3/08). ‘70% of Thais gamble’ figures from Thai Farmers Research Centre. Sangsidh Piriyarangsan & Santhana Prayoonrat cited by Supradit Kanwanich & Surath Jinakul, ‘An open secret is revealed’ (BP, 17/11/02). Soopatra Soupap, ‘Thai Society & Culture’ (Chulalongkorn Uni, 03/75). Theeranuch Pusaksrikit, ‘You’ve got to be in it to win it!’ (TN, 20/4/03). Theeranuch Pusaksrikit & Kanniga Buraphatanin, ‘Soccer betting - how to score’ (TN, 9/11/02). Wichit Chantanusornsiri, ‘Turning the Table on Punters’ (BP, 21/4/03). BEAUTY QUEENS Angeline Sinthavachiva cited by Kwanchai Rungfapaisarn, ‘Pageant turns into a reality-TV show’ (TN, 18/8/05). Anjira Assavanonda, ‘Trees engaged in Thai-style ceremony to promote nature’ (BP, 28/2/03). Nongpa-nga Limsuwan cited by Sukanya Sae-Lim, Prapasri Osathanon & Tulsathit Taptim, ‘Dual ambitions or double standards?’ (TN, 4/6/99). Piamsuk Menasveta cited by Samila Wenin, ‘In the eyes of the beholders’ (BP: Muse, 2/1/10). Sources 317 Prasert Joemjutithum cited in ‘Eye of the beholder’ (TN, 9/6/02). SOAP OPERAS Chanintorn Prasertprasart cited by Alongkorn Parivudhiphongs, ‘The Katoey Connection’ (BP, 13/3/97). Kasidin Saengwong cited by Peter Beckett ‘Murky Waters’ (Metro,5/96). Salaya cited by Alongkorn Parivudhi-phongs, ‘Made for TV’ (BP, 23/6/04). Petchyupa Boonsirijarungrat cited by Lisnaree Vichitsorasatra, ‘Sick of the Sleaze’ (TN, 11/8/07). Supatra Suparb cited by Peter Beckett, ‘Murky Waters’ (Metro, 5/96). Surang Prempri, ‘Storm in a tea cup?’ (BP, 14/8/03). MULTI-PURPOSE CELEBRITIES Alongkorn Parivudhiphongs, ‘On Reflection: Fame’ (BP, 3/5/04). Areeya Jumsai cited by Cornwel-Smith, Philip, ‘Girl Uninterrupted’ (Metro,3/02). Pinoy Pop, see CorderoFernando. Wittawat cited by Ehrlich, Richard, ‘Talk show – Thai Style’ (IPS, 31/5/95). COMEDY CAFÉS Somyot Suthangkoon cited by Boonlert Siakim, ‘The Café King’ (TN, 23/7/88). Salin Pinkayan, ‘We’re famous for smiles, not humour’ (TN, 25/4/04). Tawee Peungboon na Ayutthaya, ‘Playing for Laughs’ (Caravan,7/94). Wittawat Soontornvinate cited by Ehrlich, Richard, ‘Talk of the Town’ (Metro, 5/96). 318 Sources YAA DONG Anchana Wichit, ‘Spice of Life?’ (Metro, 9/95). Parinya Utitchalanon, in interview and cited by Suthon Sukphisit, ‘Healthy Spirits’ (BP, 22/2/00). Santi Watthana cited by Suthon, ‘Healthy Spirits’, above. ENERGY DRINKS ‘4.63 billion cans’, 2011 figures from Red Bull. Masteschitz, Dietrich cited by Veena Thoopkrajae, ‘Mr Red Bull shares secrets of his success’ (TN, 29/8/03). Kamoldist Samuthkochorn cited by Kwanchai Rungfapaisarn, ‘Carabao exec looks to boost energy drinks’ (TN, 20/5/03). Manit Rattanasuwan cited by Kwanchai Rungfapaisarn, ‘Two new brands in fiercest market’ (TN, 20/12/02). Pavin Chachawalpongpun, ‘When nationalism becomes self-serving’ (TN, 11/6/03). WHISKY MIXERS Van Blarcom, Tom & Pinedo, Manuel cited by Cornwel-Smith, Philip, ‘Strip Search’ (Metro, 3/99). Cummings, see World Food Thailand. SONGS FOR LIFE Carr, Tim, ‘Music’ in Time Out. LUUK THUNG & MOR LAM Carr, Tim ‘Music’ in Time Out . Decha Suvinijit cited by Rob Few, ‘Blue Suede Shoes’ (Metro,9/00). Surachai Sombatcharoen cited by Lockard, Dance of life. T-POP GOES INDY Don Sambandaraksa, ‘Ragnarok Online’ (BP, 6/08/03). Mailer, Norman, cited by Hebdige, Dick, Subculture. Manond Apanich, ‘Bigger, Fatter’, ( TN, 05/11/04). Nation, ‘Ragnarok: Friend or Foe?’ ( TN, 13/2/03). Newspaper research, Dr Anucha Thirakanont, Communications Faculty, Thammasat University. Swartzentruber, David, ‘Bureaucrats once again out of touch’ (13/7/03). THAI THAI Pinoy Pop, see CorderoFernando. MuseumSiam, Xenophilia (2011). VERNACULAR DESIGN Brand, Stuart, How Buildings Learn (Penguin, 1995), How Slums can Save the Planet (Prospect, 27/1/10). Rick Poynor, ‘Future Imperfect’ in Obey the Giant (Birkhäuser, 2001). TCDC exhibitions, Isan Retrospective (2005), Spirits: Creativities from Beyond (2006), Quick Bites (2009), Design for Disasters (2012), Vernacular Design (2013). AFTERWORD Nidhi Eosreewongse, ‘Buddhism and the dark arts’ (1989). Somewhere Thai (Graphic Design Association of Thailand, 2011). Index Incorporating glossary, picture index and historical eras Bold numbers mean picture with text. Entries grouped if possible. Thais listed under first names. Enlarged index at www.verythai.com Abhidhamma Foundn., 117 accidents (road), 52, 54, 58, 76, 177, 189, 217, 221, 235 advertising, 9-10, 13, 50, 55, 104, 106, 109, 128-30, 144, 149, 152-5, 175, 180, 191, 221, 230, 239, 248, 253, 258-61, 275-6, 283, 290, 294, 298-301, 305-6, 310; Bangkok Art Directors Assoc. BAD Awards, 310 AIDS, 117 American influence, 10, 92, 109, 122, 128, 132, 143, 151-2, 218, 283, 289, 291 Amphawa, 17, 146-7 amrit (amrita, elixir of immortality), 168 amulets, 13, 41, 51, 87, 127, 158, 161, 168, 172-6, 183, 185-6, 188, 191-2, 196-7, 211, 221, 239-40, 275; bodhi leaf, 174, 179; cases & chains, 173, 176; Chinese, 172, 192; coins, 178; herbal, 270; in cars, 10, 177-81; khot (natural), 172, 175; love charms, 197, 273; cushions, 180-1; mother’s skirt, 173; phra phim, 174; string, 51, 149, 179; Phra Somdet Wat Rakhang, 175; also mongkhon, palad khik, prajiad, takrud Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall, 67 Ancient City museum, 223 Ang Thong, 36, 230 animals: auspicious, 133, 138, 189, 271; fighting, 2424; in medicines, 271; pets, 35, 43, 140; releasing, 44, 164, 169, 242; stray 42-4 animism, 11, 117, 164, 172, 187, 188, 192, 208, 212, 217-9, 238, 271; also spirits Anucha Thirakanont, 60, 104, 139, 164 Ao Nang beach, 190 APEC, 36, 43, 57, 75, 82 aphrodisiacs, 271, 273; love charms, 189, 191, 209, 271, 273; tattoos, 185; yaa dong, 271, 274 architects: Le Corbusier, 146; Duangrit Bunnag, 266; Rangsan Torsuwan, 68-9; Sullivan, L H, 146; Sumet Jumsai, 46, 101, 142; van der Rohe, Mies, 146 architecture, 48, 133, 279; Central Plains, 146, 147-50, 220; Isaan, 146, 147-8; Gothic, 67; modern, 150, 152-3, 220-1; Northern, 146-7, 149; SinoPortuguese, 69; Southern, 69, 146; traditional, 70, 137, 147; also Greco-Roman, houses army; see military aromatherapy, 124, 237 art & artists, 12, 56, 87, 143-4, 199, 218, 261, 292-5; 306-7; Apichatpong Weerasethakul, 292, 298; Dow Wasiksiri, 311; Flavin, Dan, 64; found art, 17, 306; Hem Wejakorn, 214; Jitsing Somboon, 261; Kongpat Sakdapitak, 306; Michael Shaowanasai, 298, 307; Navin Rawanchaikul, 56, 218, 302, 307; Pan Pan Narkprasert, 199; Proxy, 310; Rirkrit Tiravanija, 293, 307; Saiyaat Sema-ngoen, 143, 306; Sakharin Krue-on, 199; Surasi Kosolwong, 307; Suttee Kunavichayanont, 307; Tawan Duchanee, 261; Thaivijit Puengkaesemsomboon, 307; Thaweesak ‘Lolay’ Srithongdee, 293; Vasan Sitthiket, 282, 284 art galleries, 284, 292-5, 3067, 310; H Gallery, 292-3; also BACC Art For Life, 111, 282, 290, 293, 295 ASEAN & AEC, 15, 303 ASEM summit, 82 Asian Games, 82 astrology, 66, 101, 162-4, 184, 201-7 astronomy, 162 auspiciousness, 48, 64, 100-1, 111, 133-4, 138-9, 152, 162, 164, 173, 176, 178-9, 183, 189, 192, 197, 201-2, 209, 221, 236, 271, 299 Ayutthaya, 10, 17, 22, 36, 46, 48, 56, 63, 117, 121, 186, 197, 199, 204, 211, 226, 235; Ayutthaya era (1351-1767), 63, 104, 126-7, 133-4, 136, 167, 176, 214, 300, 301 Baan Phitsanuloke, 214 baba-nonya style, 69 backpackers, 22, 28, 110 bamboo, 21-2, 24, 29, 31, 33, 35-6, 37-9, 46-7, 77, 84, 857, 137, 142, 147, 159, 192, 236, 243, 279, 288 Bamrungmuang Road, 171 banana leaf, 22, 29, 31, 86, 192, 194, 233, 235-6, 307 Ban Chiang, 43 Bang Saen, 266-267 Bangkok, throughout; Airport, 14, 121, 151; Bangkok Noi, 133, 140 Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC), 45, 140, 302, 307 Bangkok Fashion City, 105 Bangkok Fashion Week, 260 Bangkok Gay Pride Parade, 114-5, 117 Bangkok Metropolitan Authority (BMA), 36, 38, 43, 50, 60, 74, 78, 82; Bang Khuntien, 85 Bang Kruay, 250 Bangladesh, 86 Bang Pa-in Palace, 68 banknotes, 80, 167-8, 175, 178, 263-4, 289; lucky, 174, 179, 181, 193, 202; thanabat kwan thoong, 194 banks, 155, 167; Krung Thai, 168 Barcelona, 310 bargaining, 194 bars, 49, 114, 123, 154, 191, 259, 277-281, 288; art bars, 293-94; bar strips, 279-80; beach, 144, 266, 268-69; Casanova, 116; indy, 294; mobile, 57; music, 282-3; pubs, 144, 154, 230, 279, 283, 291; Shock, The, 218; Tak Sura, 306; Tawandaeng, 281; also go-go, nightclubs, nightlife beach, 2, 15, 64, 86, 121, 123, 144, 170, 190, 266-9, 279; bars, 268-9 beauty contests, 7, 11, 14, 112, 191, 226, 229, 232, 248-52, 259; Man of the Year, 249; Miss Jumbo Queen, 233, 250, 252; Miss Queen of the Universe, 252; Miss Thailand, 248, 249-51, 252; Miss Thailand Universe, 249; Miss Thailand World, 191, 249; Miss Tiffany, 117, 249, 252; Miss Universe, 248, 249; Mr Manhunt, 251 beer, 41, 79, 154, 168, 277-9, 281, 283, 295; Boon Rawd brewery, 167; Chang, 41, 281; Singha, 168; Tiger, 294 Index & Glossary 319 betting; see gambling Bhumibol Adulyadej, King; see kings Bhumibol Bridge, 65 Bhumibol Dam, 207 bicycles, 35-41, 85, 299 birthdays, 165, 170, 306; also royal birthdays Blackberry, 154 black magic (sayasaat), 137, 203, 209, 311 black economy, 50 blessings, 48, 66, 101, 127, 139, 149, 169-71, 174, 179, 184, 196, 198, 200, 205, 209, 211-2, 226, 289 blind: buskers, 11, 76-9; masseurs, 11, 77-8, 121-2 boats, 7, 14, 36, 45-9, 57-8, 143, 161, 166, 179, 268, 306; barges, 43, 47, 48; vendor, 46; also royal barges body collectors, 52 bombing in 2007, 75, 83 bon kai/bon paa; see cockfighting pits books, 36, 77, 84, 126-7, 150, 165, 161, 187, 205, 259, 166, 282, 291, 294, 298, 300, 304, 311; on Bangkok, 279; comics, 51, 127-8, 130-132, 218, 302; ghost tales, 214215, 218, 254, 292, 302; handmade, 231, 293-4; Jindamanee, 127; Khun Chang Khun Phaen, 136, 209; folding palm leaf, 126, 174, 202, 205, 270; Phrommachat, 202, 204; reading, 127; Sawasdi Raksa, 163; SEA Write, 294; Traiphum Phra Ruang, 167 boxing, 170, 185, 237-41; Nong Toom, 116-117, 236, 238, 240; also muay thai Bradley, Dan Beach, 126, 128 Brahmins, 93, 111, 164, 176, 190, 202, 221, 250, 300 Brand, Stuart, 147, 305 bribes, 38, 48, 60, 245, 247; also corruption British & influence of, 12, 56, 66, 69, 91, 99, 115, 152, 167, 279, 291; also English Brussels, 310 Buddha, Lord, 58, 120, 201, 205, 221-2; images, 43, 60, 63-4, 136, 162, 164-5, 170, 320 Index & Glossary 172, 173-8, 179, 181, 185, 234, 239; altars in homes, 149, 193; Images Museum, 176; also amulets Buddhism, 11, 16, 42, 63, 117, 158, 164, 170, 174, 176-7, 185, 201, 211-2, 217, 219, 221, 228, 232, 242, 300, 311; in art, 293; Mahayana, 174, 221; Theravada, 120, 192 buffalo, 21, 35, 101, 126, 185, 232, 242, 245, 263; cart furniture, 87, 141, 143-145; skulls, 143, 282, 284 bull fighting, 242 bureaucrats, 85, 91, 94-5, 100, 116, 134, 153, 167, 212, 235, 301 Buriram, 180, 285 Burma & influence of, 66-7, 111, 144, 160, 234-5, 242, 247, 264, 276, 283, 303 buses, 9, 37-8, 52, 57, 105, 111, 136-7, 153, 169, 17880, 266, 286, 288, 298, 302, 308; bus art, 57, 58-60, 179 business, 10, 38, 41, 50, 64, 73, 74, 84, 92, 97-9, 104, 110, 112, 115-6, 154-5, 164, 167, 169, 172, 175, 178-9, 186, 192-9, 202, 212, 222, 246, 248, 259, 263, 290, 294, 301, 310; ESSO, 167; Pepsico, 274; Osotspa, Sahapan Group, 170; Thai Life Assurance, 167; Wijitpornchai, 171 businesspeople: Allan Namchaisri, 98; Chaleo Yoovidhaya, 274; Charoen Sirivatanapakdi, 41; Chokchai Bulakul, 143; Lek Viriyah, 223; Mateschitz, Dietrich, 274-5; Seri Wongmontha, 116 buskers, 11, 76-9, 80, 302 cabarets, 112, 114, 252, 279; Alcazar, 252; Tiffany, 117, 249, 252 Cambodia, 144, 185, 247, 303; Phnom Penh, 66; also Khmer canals, 36, 44, 45-9, 150, 150, 178, 188, 234, 307 candles, 62, 162, 169-70, 198, 204, 210, 212, 220, 233, 307 cars, 37, 44, 48, 52, 73, 80, 131, 153, 160, 175, 177, 248, 256, 279; blessings, 48, 1789, 205; Honda, 137, 153, 179; lucky plates, 11, 179, 202-3, 206, 246; MercedesBenz, 71, 100, 125, 153, 170, 175; Porsche, 153; Toyota, 179; also pick-ups, taxis cartoons & comics, 129-131, 181, 205, 292, 294; Doraemon, 132; Hello Kitty, 130-132, 146, 228; Pangpond, 131-2; Ultraman, 131, 149, 299 casinos, 244, 246-7 cats, 42-4; beckoning 198; Soi Dog & Cat Rescue, 43 celebrities (dara), 11, 75, 97, 101, 115, 155, 171, 203, 206, 230, 240, 248, 250, 253, 258-61, 275-6, 281; Apasara Hongsakul, 248, 250; Araya ‘Chompoo’ Hargate, 256; Areeya ‘Pop’ Jumsai, 101, 252, 260; Burbidge, Sirinya ‘Cindy’, 100; Chakrit Yimnaem, 258; Mai Charoenpura 258, 289; Chao Kokaew Prakaykavil na Chiang Mai, 104; Cherman ‘Ploy’ Boonyasak, 258; Danu-porn ‘Brook’ Punnakan, 256; Darunee Kritboon-yalai, 98; Florence Faivre, 260, 291; Chulachak ‘Hugo’ Chakrabongse, 256, 283; Inthira Thanavisuth, 96, 98-9; Jetsadaporn Pondee, 258; Kaufmann, Natasha, 171; Khemanit ‘Pancake’ Jamikorn, 260; Kru Lily, 116; Lee Puengboonpra, 96, 103; Mai Charoenpura, 258, 289; Marissa Maha-vongtrakul, 98, 171; Marsha Watthanapanit, 258; Methinee ‘Luuk-ked’ Kingphayome, 105; Ornapa Krisadee, 116; Paradorn Srichapan, 238; Petchara Chaowarat, 251; Pornchita na Songkhla, 259; Pornthip Narkhirun-kanok, 248; Porntip Rojanasunan, 259; Sombatsara ‘Tue’ Tirasaroj, 97; Ray Macdonald, 291; Sonia Couling, 260; Sornram Theppitak, 258; Theeradej ‘Ken’ Wongpuapan, 258; also beauty contests; hi-so MCs, models; music celebrities, foreign: Beckham, David, 107, 110; Brosnan, Pierce, 55; Jolie, Angelina, 183, 187; Pacino, Al, 60-61; Stallone, Sylvester, 60 censorship, 13, 255, 284, 291, 292-4, 300, 305, 307 Central Plains, 36, 111, 124, 137, 228, 288, 242, 300; houses 146-50, 147, 220 Central Dept Store, 73, 167, 260; CentralWorld, 83, 151, 154, 223, 281; also ZEN Cha-am, 266 Chachoengsao, 12, 13, 134, 220 chai yo! (cheers), 270 chakra rasi; see zodiac wheel Chakri dynasty (1782-), 159 Chao Phraya River, 45-6, 48, 64, 128, 168, 235 chao thii (spirit of the place), 219; also spirit houses Chatuchak; see markets chedi (stupa, reliquary pagoda), 165, 174, 220 Chet Semien, 231 cheu len; see nicknames Chiang Mai, 24, 52, 69, 77, 83, 86, 109, 116-7, 121-2, 135, 142, 149, 151, 160, 206, 212, 218, 229, 230-232, 279, 280, 310 China, 15, 46, 90, 190, 202, 210, 257 Chinatown (Bangkok), 41, 48, 68, 112, 122, 161, 236, 246, 279 Chinese influence, 24, 36, 38, 41, 46, 64, 67, 69, 71, 84, 100, 104, 111, 115, 125, 127, 133-4, 136, 142, 144, 146-7, 163, 172, 179, 192, 201, 246, 256, 271, 298, 300-3, 306; facial features, 251, 259, 285; fortune telling, 165, 202-5; furniture, 147, 149; gardening, 133-4, 136; journals, 12; immigrants, 94, 138, 235, 256, 299-300; language, 127, 204, 302; medicine, 271; names, 101; New Year, 236, 252; shrines, 192, 219, 221, 223; soaps, 256; Straits Chinese, 69; talismans, 172, 179, 192194, 196, 201; also babanonya, deities, Sino-Thais Chonburi, 67, 126, 232 Christian influence, 12, 94, 116, 186, 191; Christmas, 63, 145, 235-6 cigarettes, 209, 276 cinemas, 32, 159-61, 230-1, 291; painted posters, 56, 302, 306; outdoor, 226, 231 class: differences, 10-11, 15, 26, 52, 70, 95, 106, 187, 277; elite, 10, 93-4, 96-9, 106, 111, 127, 150-2, 204, 230, 247, 251, 260, 266, 281, 283, 285, 295, 298-9, 303-4; lower, 15, 38, 110-1, 136, 183, 230, 271, 273, 282, 301; middle, 11, 55, 87, 95, 114, 136, 141, 149, 151, 204, 221, 250, 273, 275, 289, 290-1, 295, 299, 301, 303, 309-10; nouveau riche, 70, 96, 176, 253; upwardly mobile, 15, 41, 66, 70, 96-9, 139, 153, 250, 256; yuppies, 153, 256; also hi-so clothing, female: 43, 71, 90-9, 102-6, 187, 230, 255, 290, 294; cabaret costume (hang khreuang), 112-5, 263, 285-9; skimpy, 93, 300; also fashion, uniforms clothing, male, 43, 51, 71, 90-5, 94, 107-11, 230, 282-4, 290, 294; also fashion, uniforms clothing, traditional, 10, 68, 63, 91-4, 102-6, 131, 153, 162-4, 197-9, 218, 222, 228, 230, 232-6, 237-8, 248-52, 254, 232-4, 232-288, 300; also jongkraben, national costume, pha khao ma Coca-Cola, 32, 86, 222, 274 cockfighting, 228, 242, 243-4, 247; cockfighting pits (bon kai/bon paa), 2434; fighting cock (kai chon), 243 coffee, 24, 26-27, 32, 37, 274 coins, 164, 175, 178, 207, 230; as razor, 111; in the ear, 17, 110-1; see amulets colonialism, 11, 91, 105, 126, 299-300; colonial style, 135, 144, 146 colours, Thai use of, 2, 9, 11, 15, 29-30, 57, 60, 95, 131, 162-5, 179, 228, 230 comedy (talok), 7, 17, 112, 134, 226, 228, 253, 262-5, 289, 294 comedians: Lor Tok, 265; Mum Jokmok, 265; Thep Poe-ngam, 265; Udom ‘Note’ Taephanich, 265, 294 Communism, 265, 283, 301 conformity, 14, 90-5, 109-11, 131, 147, 155, 178, 235, 253, 282, 302-3; non-conformity, 111, 251, 282-4, 290-4; also indy conscription, 110, 117, 217 Constitution of 2007, 117 Constitution Fair, 229 convenience stores, 23, 32, 86, 192-6; also 7-Eleven copying, 116, 132, 143, 151, 153, 155, 172, 175, 191, 194, 230, 261, 274, 294, 303, 307; also fakes, piracy corruption, 60, 166, 246, 255, 283, 291; also bribes cosmetics, 26, 104-6, 124, 259; male, 107-9 Counter Corruption Commision, 166 coups, 203; of 1932, 300, 301, 302; of 1957, 301; of 1991, 284; of 2006, 50, 75, 160, 163, 180, 222, 255, 284, 291, 301-2 courting, 48, 103, 114, 191, 226, 235; also gig, virginity cowboy chic, 143 crafts, 15, 46, 60, 77, 87, 103-4, 130-2, 141, 158, 235, 237, 241, 304-7; cute, 130-2 cults, 210, 212, 220, 221 cute, 11, 29-30, 57, 60, 87, 100, 105, 118, 129-32, 135, 144, 147, 150, 290, 295 dance & theatre, 9, 48, 63, 77, 112, 131, 133, 161, 163, 183, 208, 217, 222, 228, 232, 234-5, 238, 241, 259, 263, 265, 266, 277, 286-8, 291, 301; Ayutthaya Redux, 231; BabyMime, 311; costume, 58, 63, 94, 112, 131, 133, 163, 228, 232, 234-5, 249, 262-4, 280, 288; Madame Butterfly, 114; manohra (Southern dance), 228; Fahmi Fadzil, 311; Makhampom troupe, 2645; Manop Meejamras, 231; musicals, 231, 256-7; Patravadi Mejudhon, 230; Patravadi Theatre, 230; Peeramon Chomdhavat, 94; Pichet Klunchun, 300; Pradit Prasartthong, 231, 264, 288; Reya, 256-7; River of Kings, 235; Siam Niramit, 301; also festivals, khon, khon sot, lakhon nai, lamtad, likay, National Theatre, puppets, ram wong, sound & light, talok Dan Sai, 189, 285 dara; see celebrities day themes, 100, 162-5 dee (femme lesbian); see tom-dee deities, Chinese, 219; Chi Kong, 210; Hok Lok Siew, 193; Kuan Yin (Guan Im), 193, 221; Phra Sang Khajjai, 193 deities, Hindu, 64, 168; Brahma, 222; Erawan, 60, 222; Ganesha, 208-9, 211, 222; Garuda, 166-8; Indra, 60, 222; Kabila, 250; Lakshmi, 222; Narai (Vishnu), 222; Shiva, 188-9, 191, 208, 210, 222; Trimurti, 222-223; Vishnu, 158, 166-7, 222 deities, Thai, 11, 58, 161, 178, 196, 219; Mara (demon king), 222; Phra Angkarn (Mars), 162; Phra Arthit (Suriya, god of sun & Sunday), 58, 60-61, 162; Phra Chan (Chandra, god of moon & Monday), 60, 162; Phra Ketu, 163; Phra Mae Khongkha (water goddess), 250; Phra Mae Thoranee (earth goddess), 222, 239; Phra Mae Yanang (vehicle goddess), 48, 58, 177-8; Phra Pareuhat (god of Thursday), 162, 164; Phra Phut (Mercury, god of Wednesday), 162; Phra Rahu (god of eclipses), 162-3, 202; Phra Sao (god of Saturday), 162; Phra Suk (Venus, god of Friday), 162, 205; Por Kao, 183; Shivaka Kumar Baccha, 120; also thep, theppanom dek naew (indy kids), 294-5 Democracy Monument, 15 demonstrations; see protests dental braces, 130 department stores; see malls dern (modern), 129, 151 design, 10, 12, 13, 26, 41, 55-7, 60, 67-8, 71, 101, 133-4, 137-8, 141-50, 1601, 165, 167, 230, 233, 235-6: BIG fair, 304, 310; contemporary, 29, 63, 144, 219-21, 266, 279-81, 294, 300-1, 304-11; Somewhere Thai symposium, 310; Thai style, 63, 197, 220, 298, 301, 304-7; also furniture, lai thai, vernacular designers: Anusorn Ngernyuang, 144; Kongpat Sakdapitak, 306; Ou Baholyodhin, 144; Brown, Richard, 162; Planet 2000, 144; Pracha Suveeranont, 10, 12-13, 126-8, 304-5, 309-11; Propaganda, 144; Roj Siamruay, 128, 306; Saiyaat Sema-ngoen, 143, 306; Sakul Intakul, 26, 138-9; Singh Intrachooto/ Osisu, 144; Suwan Khongkuntien/Yothaka, 144, 306; also fashion desserts, 10, 22, 30-3, 199 devaraja (god-king), 158 Dhammakaya, 171 dhammaraj (righteous kingship), 158 disability, 76-9, 198; humour at, 264; also blind discos; see nightclubs; disco balls, 181 Disney, 60, 129, 131-2, 151, 236 DJs, 259, 278, 281, 288-9, 290, 294; Bee, 291; Janepop Jobkrabuanwan 286, 288-9; Kapol Thongphlub, 218; Maft Sai, 289, 306; Wasana, 291; also radio Index & Glossary 321 dogs, 42-43, 132, 214; Thai ridgeback, 43; Thongdaeng (King Bhumibol’s dog), 43 dok krathum (shave-sided haircuts), 95, 103, 111 drinking (alcohol), 24-7, 115, 122, 170, 218, 245, 270-3, 274-81, 270-3; Green Spot, 32; Mirinda, 32; Miss Drunk, 248; sato (rice liquor), 273; Siam Sunray, 277; sura chae (fermented liquor), 271; also beer, Coca-Cola, coffee, energy drinks, lao khao, nam sa, Pepsi, tea, whisky, yaa dong driving style, 14, 48, 51-2, 60, 111, 125, 153, 177-81, 217, 221, 274-5, 285, 303; valet parking, 253, 279 drugs, 174, 270, 276, 280, 291; amphetamines, 44, 178, 274, 280; opium, 122, 185; also yaa baa durian, 30, 154, 232; Miss Durian, 249 Dusit palaces, 67 Dutch influence, 66, 69 economic boom (1988-97), 15, 68, 71, 158, 221, 251, 279, 285, 290, 306 economic crash (19972002), 25, 87, 144, 151, 155, 159, 175, 180, 196, 230, 273, 277, 286, 289, 290, 301-2, 305, 307 education, 70, 85, 149, 150, 251, 302; also schools, students, universities elections, 50, 80, 91, 94, 174, 298, 302 elephants, 9, 35, 42, 44, 55, 60, 85, 126, 134-5, 184, 220, 232-3, 252; mahouts, 92; National Elephant Inst./Conservation Centre, 44, 232; polo, 233; Samphran Elephant Ground, 233, 250; Surin Round-Up, 232 energy drinks, 51, 274-6, 283, 285, 289; Carabao Daeng, 275-6; Chalarm, 275; Lipovitan D, 274; Loog Toong, 285; M100 & M150, 275; Miss Hang, 248; also Red Bull 322 Index & Glossary English influence, 68, 92, 136, 148, 151, 245; also British English language in Thai, 100, 127-8, 152 Erawan Museum, 223 Erawan Shrine, 209, 221-2 etiquette (marayaat), 7, 91, 101, 103, 118-9, 122, 158-61, 179, 197, 237, 254, 260, 299-300, 307; also wai European influence, 104; also by country expats, 12, 15-16, 43, 92, 97, 266, 289, 306 face (saving & losing), 11, 15-16, 22, 38, 43, 52, 70, 74, 79, 87, 96, 98, 101, 110, 112, 134, 138, 154-5, 176, 178-9, 204, 212, 248, 266, 276, 278, 300, 303 Facebook, 13, 16, 45, 261, 298, 307 fakes, 11, 116, 153-4, 172, 175, 191, 194, 233 families, 47, 96, 110, 115, 117, 142, 153, 256, 266; extended, 15, 131, 174 farang (Caucasians), 28-9, 55-7, 94, 104, 106, 110, 117, 127, 138, 175, 180, 251, 266-267, 279, 281, 302; farang kii-nok (tatty westerners), 110; also by nationality, expats fashion, 10-12, 26, 50, 90112, 124, 129-30, 149, 151-5, 158, 260-1, 163, 176, 183, 191, 196, 199, 221, 223, 236, 245, 252, 258-61, 266, 290-5, 298-9, 304, 307; Bangkok Fashion City, 105; Bangkok Fashion Week, 260 fashion designers & labels: Balmain, Pierre, 91, 104; Dior, 153; Global Trash Chic, 144, 307; Greyhound, 261; Jim Thompson Silk Co, 92, 103, 144; Jitsing Somboon, 261; Nagara Sambandaraksa, 103; Prada, 155 FAT Festival; see festivals FAT Radio, 295 female grooming, 90-9, 102-6, 125, 248-61; also clothing, hair female identity, 100-1, 102-6, 109, 111, 114, 226, 236, 248-51, 183, 188, 250, 253-8, 289; boxing, 240; feminism, 217; mediums, 203, 211, 218; religion, 186, 212, 219-220, 222; tattooed, 183, 187 festivals, 11, 24, 63-4, 103, 112, 118, 143, 168, 176, 188, 191, 215, 226, 232-6, 249, 300-1, 304-5, 307; Asahna Bucha, 208; Bangkok Gay Pride, 114; Bangkok Theatre (BTF), 231; Bo Sang Umbrella Fair, 232; Buddhist, 208; Chiang Mai Flower, 117, 232; Chinese, 64, 236; Chonburi Buffalo Races, 232; Elephant Satoke, 232; FAT, 64, 231, 291, 293 305, 309-11; fortune-telling, 203; imported, 235-36; invented, 224; Khon Kaen Silk, 232; Lopburi Monkey Banquet, 233; Navaratri, 210-1; Pracha-Nareumit Furniture Fair, 232; revived, 235; River Kwae, 235; music, 290, 309; rocket festivals, 188, 232; Saraburi Sunflower, 232; Surin Elephant Round-Up, 232; theatre, 231, 294; also film, ghosts, indy, Loy Krathong, Phii Ta Khon, Phii Khone Phang Khone, Songkran fighting cocks, 284 fighting fish (pla kud), 242-3 film directors: Apichatpong Weerasethakul, 292, 298; Chatrichalerm Yukol, 160; Michael Shaowanasai, 298, 307; Nonzee Nimibutr, 254; 292; Pen-ek Rattanruang, 292; Seksan Prasertkul, 284; Wisit Sasanatieng, 95, 292, 298 film festivals, 231, 291-2; Cannes, 292 films, foreign, 87, 292; The Beach, 87, 266, 284; Bladerunner, 307; The King & I, 299 films, Thai, 95, 116-7, 218, 260, 265, 292, 301; Bangrajan, 101, 237, 283; Beautiful Boxer, 116-117, 230; Blissfully Yours, 292; Bupha Ratree, 215, 218; comedy, 265; Faen Chan, 119; gay, 112, 116; ghost, 254; Insects in the Backyard, 292; Iron Pussy, 298; It Gets Better, 116; Laddaland, 218; Last Life in the Universe, 292; Mah Nakorn (Citizen Dog), 95, 298; Macbeth, 292; Mekong Full Moon Party, 230; Mon Rak Luuk Thung, 256; Mon Rak Transistor, 230, 292; Nang Nak, 218, 292; Naresuan, 160; OK Baytong, 292; Ong Bak, 258; Ploy, 292; Satree Lek (Iron Ladies), 112, 116; Saving Private Tootsie, 116; sci-fi, 307; Suriyothai, 160; Syndrom esand a Century, 292; Takian, 218; Tears of the Black Tiger, 292; teen, 119, 292; Tropical Malady, 292; Uncle Boonm eeW ho Can RecallH isPastLives, 292; The Unseeable, 214; Young Bao, 284 Fine Arts Department, 77 fishermen’s pants, 94, 110 fishing, 45, 48-49, 51, 87, 305; shrine, 190; fish traps, 92, 179, 192 fitness craze; see gym flag, Thai, 6-7, 61, 64, 110, 296, 299, 300, 308 floods, 42, 45; Great Flood of 2011, 42, 44, 147-8, 207, 306-7, 310 folk culture, 9-10, 12-13, 15-16, 35-6, 58, 64, 87, 109, 112, 131, 151, 162-5, 181, 187-8, 205-6, 212, 230-1, 237, 242, 249, 256, 273, 295, 298-303, 305, 311; folklore, 58, 131, 151, 176, 205, 235, 247, 271, 285; folk music, see music food, 9, 11, 14, 26, 43-4, 62, 77, 79, 200, 130-132, 169-71, 193-4, 199, 215, 220, 226, 230, 232, 242-3, 267, 273, 277-80, 294, 304; also desserts, fruit, ice cream, insects, khao chae, kuaytiao reua, kub klaem, restaurants, somtam, streetfood, sugar football, 10, 85, 91, 107, 148, 151, 245, 256; Beckham, David, 107, 100; elephant, 232; English Premier League, 148-9, 180; gambling, 245, 247; kit, 10, 95, 110, 148, 163; Manchester United, 100; Thai Premier League, 245 fortune tellers, 11, 14, 111, 126, 147, 201-2, 203-7, 209, 246, 302; read face, 204; read feet, 204; for lottery, 203; palmistry, 11, 111, 204, 207, 209 France, 91, 133; influence of, 66-7, 71, 92, 127, 136, 152, 256, 260, 291, 302; Versailles, 133, 142 freak shows, 226, 229 fruit, 21-2, 37, 40, 58, 131, 136-7, 161, 194, 232, 270, 306; carving, 9, 30, 77, 131, 232, 235; festivals, 232; fruit wines, 273; juice, 24-5, 32, 40, 250; Miss Durian, 248, Miss Mango, 251; also durian funerals, 164, 168-9, 230, 264, 286 funfairs; see temple fairs furniture, 11, 13, 37, 41, 48, 69, 83, 141-9, 148-9, 169, 214, 279, 281; bamboo, 142; bedding, 110, 146, 148; buffalo cart, 14, 87, 141, 143, 144, 305, 307; Chinese, 53, 103, 142-3, 149; concrete, 143, 144 145; contemporary, 144, 149, 304-7; daybeds, 26, 142; Frenchified, 71, 152, 256; mats, 38, 41, 140-141-2, 143, 150, 269, 304; plastic, 22, 37, 51, 77, 142-5, 14950, 214; rattan, 143, 144, 304; recycled, 141, 143-145, 301; teak, 232; tree root, 143, 145; tyre, 7, 9, 87, 141145, 307; also louis, tang Galbraith, J K, 81 gambling, 10, 14, 52, 115, 194, 202, 228, 237, 240, 242-7; animal fights, 242-4; boxing, 237-241; card games, 245; also casinos, hi-lo, lotteries games: 51-2, 144, 228, 230, 245; online, 154; Go, 196; jigsaws, 146, 149; traditional, 228-30, 294-295 gangsters, 79, 81, 172, 178, 187, 244, 246, 288 gardening, 64, 71, 133-8; in pots, 133, 136-40, 144-48, 161, 222; Crown of Thorns plant (poi sian), 136-138, 201; also khao maw garlands, 11, 48, 58, 125, 174, 177-8, 181, 198, 220, 223; of money, 289 Garuda (Khrut), 58, 166-8, 173, 208 gates, 70-2, 139, 147, 153, 161, 203, 256 gay, 107, 112-7, 122, 203, 266, 268, 281-2, 294; festivals, 114; films, 116, 293; soap operas, 116, 255; parades, 117, 235; also kathoey, tom-dee gems, 63, 96, 98, 103, 106, 174, 201; scams, 11, 47, 55 German/Prussian influence, 91, 281, 299, 302 ghosts (phii), 112, 186, 188, 194, 196, 209, 211, 214-8, 222, 236, 253-4, 292, 298, 306, 310; exorcisms, 175, 217; hauntings, 137, 214, 218, 226; Phii Khon Phang Khone (festival), 217; Phii Ta Khon (festival), 189, 191, 214-6, 217, 233, 235; thanee (banana tree ghost), 137, 215; also kumarn thong, Mae/Nang Nak, mediums, spirits gig (casual lover), 105 GIs, 112, 122, 279 globalisation, 12, 14, 16, 17, 94, 100, 123, 151, 155, 183, 187, 191, 199, 218, 236, 237, 240-1, 266, 274, 276, 280, 284, 302, 305, 307 go-go bars, 116, 122-3, 191, 279 gold, 26, 29, 60, 63, 70, 72, 103-4, 173-4, 176, 180, 189, 192, 205; leaf, 30-2, 49, 66, 158, 179, 196, 198; shops, 73, 167 golf, 11, 57, 70, 99, 132, 151 153 gossip, 98, 115, 130, 261 Gothic style, 14, 67, 68 Government House, 68 Government Lottery Office, 246 graduation, 94, 110, 146, 149, 302; also students graffiti, 293, 295, 306; Alex Face, 295, 306; Mamafaka, 295, 306; P7, 295, 306 Grand Palace, the 64, 136, 161, 168 Greco-Roman style (neoclassical), 8, 15, 58, 66-9, 70, 72, 139, 252, 256, 299 group, love of the, 86, 104, 110, 130, 142, 149, 154, 268 282; photographs, 104, 130 gym fad, 109, 114, 116, 123 Had Yai, 52 hair & hairdressers, 112,115, 118, 129, 174, 184, 191, 203-4, 210, 222, 239, 263, 306; Chelsea Hair Shop, 161; Somsak Chalachol, 96, 103, 234; taboos, 162, 164; top-knots, 109, 110, 111, 121, 130, 132, 191, 294-295; also dok krathum hair, female, 7, 9, 93, 96-9, 102, 103-5, 239, 248-257, 259; wigs, 41 hair, male, 93, 104, 107-11, 232, 249, 251; baldness, 110, 229; dreadlocks, 111, 184, 254; facial hair, 13, 66, 111, 193, 256, 282-284, 298 Halloween, 217-8, 236 hang khreuang (luuk thung dancer costume), 263, 288 Hanuman, 58, 183, 211, 299 hawkers; see vendors hell, 137, 177, 215, 263 herbs/herbalism (samuun prai), 11, 25, 77, 82, 109, 120, 124-5, 137, 144, 174, 185, 197-9, 207, 230, 270-3, 279, 299, 301, 305; drinks, 24-6, 32, 270-3 Hercules Beetle (kwaang), 35, 242, 244; Club, 35 heritage, 13, 56, 67, 69, 80, 132, 144, 147, 183, 187, 189, 201, 214, 228, 232, 242, 244, 291, 298, 305-6, 309 hill tribes; see tribes hi-lo (soong-tam, high-low, dice game) 244, 246 Himaphan (mythical forest), 167-8, 184-5; creatures, 167, 184-5; see Garuda; hongsa/supannahongsa (swan) barge, 58, 60, 162; kalapapruek (mythical tree), 168; kinnaree (birdwoman) 168; mermaid (ngeuak), 168, 226, 229, 253; hasadeeling (elephantbird), 168; singha (lion) 136; vayuphak (phoenix), 168 Hindu influence, 7, 64, 101, 166-8, 188-9, 214, 219-23, 235; astrology, 201, 205; medium, 208-12, 235; shrines, 209; temple, 21011; also Brahmins, deities hipsters, 299, 306 hi-so (high society), 7, 13, 96-9, 104, 138, 171, 202-3, 240, 250, 254-6, 261, 266, 179, 281, 295; HiSoParty. com, 96-7, 99 HIV/AIDS, 115 hong nam (bathroom), 150 Hotel California (song), 283 hotels, 57, 63, 68, 91, 122, 144, 268; Anantara, 232; Grand Hyatt Erawan, 222; Montien, 203; Phra Nakorn Norn Len, 305; Sena, 68; short-stay, 236; Six Senses, 266; Sukhothai, 201; House of Indies, 291 House of Museums, 16, 306 housing: condominiums, 15, 70, 73, 149, 151, 153, 268; estates (moo baan), 68, 70, 74, 147, 149-53, 218; mansions, 66, 70, 74, 134, 137, 139, 142, 147, 150-151, 152, 214, 256; social, 153; also architecture, teak Hua Hin, 74, 81, 230, 232, 266, 268, 300, 305-6, 309 humour, 130, 226, 230, 255, 257, 262-5, 284, 285, 306 huay; see lottery; huay tai din, 247 ice cream, 21, 38, 268; in a bun, 10, 30, 38, 268 IMF, 251, 286, 302 India, 66, 90, 190, 234, 260, 303; influence of, 22, 67, Index & Glossary 323 118, 120, 162, 202, 222; fortune telling, 162, 202, 204-5; script, 126; also Hindu, Ramayana Indo-china, 205 Indonesia, 23, 94, 194; Jakarta, 303; Java, 66 Indra, 60, 222 indy, 12, 14-15, 64, 111, 126, 231, 266, 290-5, 300, 305-6, 309, 311; music, 274-6, 284, 290-2; arts, 293-4; films, 292-3; comedy, 265 influential figures (phu mee ithipon), 51-2, 73-4, 209, 232, 247, 263, 281 informal sector, 7, 11, 14, 38, 41, 85, 140, 298-307 insects, 174, 189; beetles, 33-5, 242, 244; eating 33-5, 279; fighting, 242, 244; scorpions, 33-5, 271; see beetles, kwaang inter (Thais going international), 151, 274 Instagram, 14, 299, 306 Internet & digital culture, 12, 14-16, 41, 52, 96-8, 128-9, 146, 160, 206, 246-7, 269, 294-5, 300-1, 303, 305, 306, 311; chat, 114, 116, 128, 212; Line, 14; Mae Baan Mee Nuad, 13, 298; virality, 130, 261, 307; You Tube, 299, 306; also Facebook, Instagram, Twitter; social media; Sources p313-5 Iraq war, 173 Isaan (northeast Thailand), 33, 37, 38, 44, 47, 56, 77, 85, 90, 101, 111, 133, 137, 180, 188, 191, 203, 209, 232, 242, 267, 283, 291, 292, 304, 310; festivals, 62, 188-90, 191, 214-8, 228, 230, 232, 285-9, 299; houses, 147-148, 150; identity, 292, 301, 305; also Lao, mor lam isaew (bantering song style), 286, 291 Italy, 10; Italian influence, 60, 66-9, 299, 302; Milan, 304; also Greco-Roman jao chuu (lothario), 189 jao sam-ang (dandy), 107 324 Index & Glossary Japan, 10, 23, 45, 80, 85, 112, 129-301, 151, 155, 218; influence of, 10, 14, 48, 51, 56, 104, 122, 133-4, 136, 148-9, 199, 259, 274, 290, 299, 302-3, 305; Shinto, 212; talismans, 173, 199; Tokyo, 218; also J-Pop Jataka (scripture of Buddha’s previous lives), 205, 288 Jatukham Ramathep (amulet), 13, 172-173 Jawi script, 128 jik koh (hoodlum), 111 Jim Thompson Silk Co, 92 103, 144; House, 150 jongkraben (sarong wrapped as trousers), 90, 91, 104 J-Pop, 115, 290-1 kafae boran; see coffee Kamphaeng Phet, 204 karaoke, 77, 212, 279, 286, 288, 290; in taxis, 10, 180 karma, 52, 70, 78, 117, 163, 170, 176-7, 203, 205, 215, 217, 250, 257, 264 kathoey (ladyboys), 9, 11, 112-7, 211, 226, 252, 255, 263, 268; pageants, 248, 252; mediums, 116, 211, 213; cabarets, 112, 263; monks, 117; soaps, 116, 253, 255 khaen (Isaan bamboo mouth organ), 77, 288 khantoke (Northern low eating table), 149, 228 khao chae(rice in jasmine scented water), 26 Khao Lak, 269 khao maw (rock garden), 133-6, 138, 150 Khao Sam Roi Yod park, 91 Khao San Road, 132 khlong; see canals Khmer influence, 67, 185, 189-90, 303; architecture, 189, 219, 222, 235; language, 114, 126-7, 172, 189, 209; also Khom Khom (Khmer lettering), 92, 127, 172, 178, 182, 185, 187, 192-193, 196, 207, 209; also yantra khon (masked court dance), 63, 230, 253, 299, 300 khon song; see mediums khon sot(trad. comedy) 263 Khon Kaen, 41, 85, 149, 228, 280 Khorat cats, 43 khreuang sangha than (monk baskets), 169-71 khrob khru (masked initiation), 183, 209, 211, 239 Khrut; see Garuda khunying (titled lady), 90, 98, 103, 259 khwam pen Thai; see Thainess khwan (life essence), 110 kings: anthem, 161; birthdays, 63, 159-61, 289; kingship, 158-61; Naresuan of Siam (15901605), 159-161, 242-3; Narai of Siam (1656-88); Narai’s palace, 55, 63, 67, 134; Taksin of Thonburi (1767-1782), 208-9; Rama I (1782-1809), 191; Rama II (1809-24); Rama III (182451), 91, 246; Rama IV (Mongkut, 1851-68), 67, 91, 126, 128, 158-9, 299; Rama V (Chula-longkorn, 1868-1910), 26, 66, 91, 1045, 128, 158-159, 163, 166, 175, 179, 181, 221-223, 246, 299; Rama VI (1910-25), 7, 67, 93, 158, 167, 246, 299; Rama VII (1925-35, end of absolutism 1932), 167, 300; Rama VIII 1935-46), 158; Rama IX (Bhumibol Adulyadej, 1946-) 6, 43, 91, 148, 150, 153, 158-9, 166, 174, 179, 181, 266; Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai (1278-c1299), 126-7 kissing, 100-1, 119, 236; hom kaem (sniff kiss), 118-9 kitsch, 64, 68, 122, 144, 226, 306, 309-10 koh (island): Pha-ngan, 266, 269; Phi Phi, 87; Samet, 266, 269, 280; Samui, 266, 269; Si Chang, 52, 56; Siray, 70; also Phuket Korea, 85; influence of, 14, 151, 155, 290, 305 K-Pop, 107, 115, 290-1 Krabi, 269 krabi-krabong (stick martial art), 237 krathong (ornate float), 233 Krating Daeng; see Red Bull kreng jai (deference), 129 kuaytiao reua (boat noodles), 36, 46, 48 Kukrit Pramoj, 94, 106, 110, 132, 136, 150 kumarn thong (golden boy spirit), 194, 196, 208, 209; kumarn phet (diamond boy), 210 kup klaem (drinking snacks), 279, 281 kwaang; see Hercules Beetle Lad Prao, 140, 217 ladyboys; see kathoey lai thai (trad. patterns), 58, 61, 70-2, 133, 144, 205, 235, 295; kranok (flame motif) 58; prachamyaam (protective flower), 58 lak meuang (city pillar), 189-90, 205 lakhon nai (court dance), 264 lakhon nam nao/tee-wee; see soap operas Lampang, 44, 165, 208, 212, 232, 270, 273 Lamphoon, 227 lamtad (rap-like folk singing banter), 228, 291 Lanna (Northern culture); era, 60, 126, 230-231, 235, 244, 301, 305; also North lao khao (rice liquor), 270, 279 Lao, 77, 185, 287, 301; also Isaan, Laos Laos, 128, 144, 235, 247, 303 Las Vegas, 122, 151, 247, 285, 288 lek mongkhon (auspicious number), 201 lesbians (tom-dee), 114-5 lese majeste law, 160 lifestyle: coastal, 136, 266-9; riverine & rural, 15, 45-9, 83, 136-7, 139-40, 146-50, 188, 191; urban, 10-12, 48, 84-7, 96, 148, 151-5, 170, 202, 206-7, 212, 255-6, 266, 281, 284, 289, 290, 295, 300, 304 lighting, 7, 36, 44, 57, 60, 62-4, 66, 136 149, 170, 219, 228, 283; fairy lights, 7, 62-4, 161, 219, 278, 280; neon/fluorescent, 63-4, 122, 181, 192, 226, 229, 279-80; also candles likay (folk opera), 60, 63, 109, 112, 228, 231, 264-65 lingam; see palad khik Loei, 21, 90, 105, 144, 188-9, 214-6, 224-5, 227, 233, 235 longtail boat, 45-7, 57, 268 Lopburi, 55, 63, 67, 104, 134, 208, 209, 233; monkeys, 233 lotteries (huay), 77, 126, 189, 196, 202-3, 217, 226, 233, 245, 246-7, 286 lotus, 9, 25-6, 58, 66, 72, 85, 135, 137, 144-145, 170, 190, 201, 204-5 Louis XIV, King, 133 louis (Frenchified décor), 71, 133, 142, 153, 256 Loy Krathong (festival of floats), 64, 226, 233, 250 Lumphini Park; see parks Lumphini Stadium, 237, 240 luuk khreung (half-Thai person), 98, 100, 155, 248, 251, 256, 259, 285 luuk krung (‘city kids’ urban ballads), 77, 285, 288 luuk thung (folk music), 7, 10, 77, 229, 230, 263-4, 2859, 290, 299, 303, 306; Luuk Thung FM90, 180, 286; also Loog Toong energy drink Madame Tussauds, 258 Mae Chaem, 122, 147 Mae Nak Phrakhanong, 217 mafia, 50, 51, 79 magazines, 11, 13, 17, 84, 96-8, 122, 152, 160, 189, 194, 207, 214, 253, 258, 260-1, 266, 294; a day, 152, 294, 310; amulet, 172, 174, 211; animal fighting, 242, 200; Attitude, 115; Bangkok Metro, 9, 36; Bangkok 101, 36; Bioscope, 294; celebrity, 260-1; Cheeze, 295; comics, 128; daybeds, 142; Defy, 293; fanzines, 260; fashion, 161, 295, 298; gay, 115-7; ghost, 214-215; GM , 259; Happening, 294; Hi!, 96-7, 103; Hyper, 291: Image, 115, 152, 259; indy, 128, 290-1, 294, 310; Kinaree, 168; Khit, 304; lifestyle, 152, 207; Lips, 115, 152, 259; Maya Channel, 261; men’s, 259; Men’s Health, 115; Nang Thai, 291; National Geographic, 83; Oho, 260; Oom, 310; Ploy Kaem Phet, 100; society pages, 96, 98, 154, 160; Thailand Tatler, 96-7; Tom-Act, 115; Vogue, 298; Volum e, 115, 259; Wallpaper*, 71, 142, 249; Way, 294, 310; women’s, 96, 252, 259 Maha Sarakham, 149 mai dut; see topiary mai pen rai (never mind), 11 Malacca, 69 Malay influences, 69, 91, 127-8, 303, 311 male grooming, 73-5, 90-5, 107-11, 125, 248-57, 282, cosmetics, 107; also clothing, hair, nails, tattoos male identity, 73, 92, 100-1, 112-7, 122, 125, 282-3, 188-91, 203, 211-2, 215, 219-21, 240, 248-57, 259, 283, 271, 276, 288-9 malls, 10, 15, 30, 38, 68, 79, 98, 149, 151-153, 194, 203, 207, 212, 222, 230, 259, 279, 290-1, 295, 307, 309; department stores, 49, 79, 170, 194, 245; Amarin Plaza, 67, 301; Big C, 86; Emporium, 151; MBK (Mah Boon Krong), 151, 22; Miracle Mall, 151; Pantip Plaza, 11, 110, 172; Siam Paragon, 14, 151, 152, 155, 260; Terminal 21, 15; also Central, ZEN maneki-neko (beckoning cat), 173, 198-9 manga, 60, 93, 128, 130-131, 132, 148, 218, 281 mantra (incantation), 171, 184-6, 196, 214 markets, 16, 20-3, 36-8, 41, 55, 63-4, 82, 87, 104, 132, 140, 151, 153, 172, 175, 194, 196, 203, 226, 228, 232, 242, 244, 264, 268, 274-5, 279, 280, 293, 305-7; Amphawa, 17, 47; Bobae, 247; Chatuchak Weekend Market, 35, 78, 242, 244, 173, 277, 295, 311; Chiang Mai Walking Street, 121, 142, 283; Damnoen Saduak, 49; floating, 9, 223, 36, 45, 46-7, 48-9, 50, 117, 275, 178, 196, 279, 305; Khlong Thom, 289; Market for the Former Rich, 175; Patpong, 49; Pratunam, 40-1, 48, 166; Sam Chuk, 222; Samut Songkhram, 77; Talad Ban Mai, 12-13; Talad Rot Fai, 258; Tha Tien, 67 marriage; see weddings martial arts; see krabi krabong, Muay Thai massage: ancient/trad (nuad paen boran), 50, 109, 120-3, 259, 304; beach, 121, 123, 124; blind, 77-8, naughty, 11, 55, 120-123, 180, 191, 247; boxers, 123, 239; reflexology, 121 mawn kwan (triangular axe pillows), 143, 148 MCs, 232, 259, 279, 289, 291 media, 9, 10, 12-15, 79, 97-8, 105, 107, 110, 112, 115, 117, 155, 160-1, 209, 218, 229, 151-2, 256, 258-61, 280, 283-4, 295, 298, 301-2, 306, 310 meditation, 118, 124 mediums (khon/raang song), 7, 11, 116, 183-7, 203, 207, 208-13, 215-8, 246 Mekhala awards, 256 Mekong River, 46-47, 62, 185 merit making (tham boon), 44, 169-171, 203, 209, 215, 218, 226, 229, 236, 266 metrosexuals, 107, 109, 111 metta (compassion), 120, 186 mia noi (minor wife), 69, 105, 112, 123, 212, 254 migrants, 11, 38, 69, 77, 101, 138, 230, 234-6, 256, 268, 274, 285-6, 292, 295, 300-1 military, 11, 51-2, 73, 75, 91, 93, 110, 117, 158, 161, 167, 173, 187, 217, 237, 252, 254, 260, 282-4, 291, 300-1, 304-5; Chulachomklao officer academy, 252; uniform, 73-5, 91; also conscription, coups Ministries of: Agriculture, 283; Culture, 101, 103, 128, 187, 255, 301; Education, 251; Finance, 168; Fine Arts Dept, 77; Health, 33; Dept of Corrections, 143; also politicians minor wife; see mia noi missionaries, 12, 94, 187, 191 mobile phones, 124, 128, 130, 149, 151-252, 154-155, 170, 260, 306-7; lucky numbers, 202, 204, 206, 212; SMS, 128, 252, 261 models, 92, 96, 100, 104-7, 112, 116, 123, 171, 240, 252, 258-61, 291, 293, 298; Burbidge, Sirinya ‘Cindy’, 100; Methinee ‘Luuk-ked’ Kingphayome, 105 modernity, 10, 36, 41-2, 45, 64, 80-3, 92, 94,101, 128, 146-55, 164, 202, 217, 220-1, 293, 295, 305; post-modern, 12, 68, 294 moh hom (indigo suit), 90, 93-4, 110, 208 Mon influence, 25, 67, 126, 251 monarchy; see royalty mongkhon (boxer’s headband amulet), 238-9, 240 monks, 25, 44, 60, 63, 82, 100, 117, 120, 137, 164, 166, 169-7, 172, 174-6, 178-80, 183-7, 189, 191, 192-4, 198, 201, 209-10, 212, 217-8, 221, 226, 246, 264, 270-1; alms/baskets, 11, 14, 16971, endpapers; exorcisms, 189, 217; fortune telling, 202-4; images, 149, 178, 193; language, 127; lucky numbers, 202, 246; novices, 44, 108, 126, 132, 170; robes, 17, 90, 169-70, 217; tattooing, 183, 185-7 monks, famous: Luang Phor: Ee, 189; Khoon, 174-5, 179, 194; Luer, 189; Phoem, 183; Toh, 175, 217; Tuad, 176 monkeys, 42, 189, 233 moo baan; see housing estates mor duu; see fortune tellers mor lam (Isaan folk music), 14, 228, 271, 285-9, 291, 306 mor phii (shaman), 192, 198-9, 203, 208-9, 211, 212, 270, 273, 286 Index & Glossary 325 moralism & prudery, 10-12, 16, 103, 105-6, 116-7, 176, 185-6, 191, 205, 211-2, 214, 217, 233, 236, 246-7, 250, 253, 256, 273, 294, 299-300, 303-4, 309 mo-so (Moderation Society), 99 motorcycles, 37-8, 52, 55, 57, 80, 137, 153-154, 178, 229; as taxis (motorsai), 7, 13, 26, 50-3, 95, 121, 136, 180, 183, 187, 274-275, 278, 298, 300, 302-3 Mount Meru, 58, 133, 163, 168, 201-2 muay thai (kick boxing), 117, 186, 226, 230, 235, 237-41, 244; muay boran (ancient boxing), 238, 241 murals, 12, 72, 80, 103, 107, 115, 131, 205, 226, 250, 263 MuseumSiam, 56, 126, 155, 191, 298-9, 301-2, 306 music, 10, 12, 44, 62, 139, 155, 161, 228, 230-1, 259-60, 264, 277, 279-80, 299, 301, 305-6, 309; big bands, 226, 286; blind bands 76-9; boy bands, 109, 291, 217, 259, 290; Country ’n’ Western, 143, 256, 283, 286, 289; folk songs, 285, 289; hip-hop, 295; indy, 64, 231, 275, 45, 290-1, 294-5, 309; jazz, 161; jukeboxes, 279, 288; Latin, 288; musicals, 231, 256-7; pleng choi (singalongs), 228; punk, 291, 295, 305; rap/ hip-hop, 110, 151, 284, 291, 295; rock/blues, 76, 79, 99, 265, 275, 282-4, 286, 290-5, 302; string, 285; techno, 230, 268; thrash metal, 284, 291; at boxing, 237-239; with jokes, 255, 264; Western, 289-90; world music, 289; also isaew, J-pop, K-pop, lamtad, luuk krung, luuk thung, mor lam, phiphat; pleng puer cheewit, T-Pop Music acts: Ad Carabao, 155, 244, 274, 281-2, 284; Anderson, Jonas, 289; Aof, 261; Aphichet ‘Big D2B’ Kitikorncharoen, 101, 260; 326 Index & Glossary Asanee-Wasan, 290; Boyd Kosiyabong, 290; Carabao, 79, 276, 283-284; Caravan, 283, 290; Da-jim, 291; Elvis Presley, 161; Elvis impersonators, 259; Hugo Chakrabongse, 256, 283; Gibson, Christy, 289; Jagger, Mick, 289; James Loychusak 259; Jintara Poonlap, 286, 289; Joey Boy, 290; Lady Gaga, 199; Lo-So, 99, 266, 275; Mai Charoenpura 258, 289; Marsha Watthanapanit, 258; Modern Dog, 290-1; Paradox, 294; Pongsit Kampee, 283; Phumphuang Duangjan, 286-8, 289; Pru, 290; Sek Lo-So, 275, 295; Siplor, 283; Siriporn Amphipong, 286; Surachai Sombatcharoen, 285; Sunny UFO, 116; Suraphon Sombatcharoen, 286; Tata Young, 258; Thep Prathan Pohn, 77; Thongchai ‘Bird’ McIntyre, 289, 295; Yokee Playboy, 290-91; also DJs Music labels: Bakery, 290-91, 292; Grammy, 116, 260; RS, 260; Weyti Thai, 289; Zudragma, 271, 281, 289 Muslims, 44, 128, 179, 300 naga (mythic water serpent), 8-9, 48, 58, 62, 72, 168, 1834, 201, 214-5, 289 nails, 16, 110-1, 164, 218, 298, 301; nail covers, 130 Nakhon Chaisri, 183-7 Nakhon Pathom, 69 Nakhon Phanom, 182, 229 Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat), 173-4, 217 Nakhon Sawan, 62 Nakhon Si Thammarat, 172 nakleng (hoodlums), 74, 111, 279 nam cha; see tea nam mun phrai (magic potion), 185, 273 nam yaa uthai (water tincture), 26, 125 names, 92, 96-99, 100-1, 122, 126-8, 127, 130, 137, 239-40, 242, 246, 275, 283, 291, 299; auspicious, 101, 164-6, 168, 219; changing, 138, 164, 209; grandiose, 15, 70, 152, 277; namecards, 101, 152, 278; nameplates, 50, 70, 74; nicknames, 100-1, 126, 148, 207, 264-5 Nana Plaza, 279 nang ek (lead actress in film, likay, soap), 253, 256 nang kwak (beckoning lady), 172, 194, 197-9; also maneki-neko Nang Nak (ghost, Mae Nak Phrakhanong), 175, 217; films of, 218, 254, 292 Nang Noppamas, 250 nang rai (villainess), 253, 257 Nashville, 289 National Anthem, 93, 110, 161, 299, 300 National Buddhism Off., 170 national costume, 91-2, 104-5, 252, 254; also clothing, phra ratchathan National Culture Com., 301 National Elephant Inst., 44 National Identity Board, 254, 301 National Inst. of Thai Traditional Medicine, 33 national parks; see parks National Theatre, 67, 231 nationalism, 46, 126, 158, 160, 196, 240, 242, 254, 276, 277, 283, 292, 298-304; national identity, 11, 16, 127, 298-311 New Phetburi road, 122 newspapers, 42, 84, 152, 174-5, 209, 214; Bangkok Post, 36, 51-2, 107, 176, 261; Daily News, 261; Khao Sod, 176, 261; Matichon, 311; Nation, 91, 125, 191, 261; tabloids, 211, 215, 261; Thai Rath, 98, 176, 261 NGOs, 85, 224 nicknames, 100-101 nightclubs & discos, 46, 118, 123, 154, 181, 219, 230, 258, 274, 277-81; Bed Supperclub, 277, 281, 309-311; Coliseum, 14-15; Q Bar, 277, 281; Rome, 280; door policies, 74, 98; gay, 115-6; massage, 121; also bars, nightlife, party nights nightlife, 12, 74, 120, 123, 149, 180, 191, 231, 277-81, 294; also bars, nightclubs, party nights Nong Khai, 47, 62, 203, 215 Nonthaburi, 47, 183, 282 noodles, 36, 38, 46-8 Northern Thailand, 25-6, 33, 35, 44, 64, 77, 92-93, 104, 111, 117, 124, 137-8, 146-7, 149-50, 168, 185, 212, 242, 248, 271; festivals, 35, 228, 230-5, 231; houses, 146-7, 149; massage, 121; renaissance, 230-231, 242, 292, 301, 305; also Lanna Northeast Thailand; see Isaan nouveau riche; see class numbers, 51-53, 92, 122, 128, 275; lucky, 7, 11, 162-3, 170, 179, 185, 187, 189, 194, 200-7, 217-8, 226, 228, 244-7, 286 numerology, 11, 14, 101, 179, 200-2, 205 nuns, 212 obesity, 23, 32, 250, 252 October Generation, 15, 282-4; Oct 1973 Memorial, 282-3; also protests offerings, 48-9, 58, 60, 64, 149, 158, 161, 163, 169, 171, 176-177, 180, 191, 193-194, 207, 212, 219, 222, 235, 246, 278 Olympics, 241 orientalism, 12, 138 One Tambon One Product (OTOP), 103, 273, 301, 310 Pakorn Pimthon, 114 pak soi (lane mouth); see soi pak waan (sweet talker), 30, 130 palad khik (phallic amulet), 11, 172, 176, 179, 188-91, 192, 194, 198, 218 Pali, 101, 127-8, 185 Paravi Wongchirachai, 303, 304 parks, 77, 79, 82, 135, 142, 144-5, 203, 244, 284, 288, 294; Lumphini, 140, 233, 251; Muang Boran (Ancient City), 191; national parks, 35, 140, 144, 271, 284 party nights: Dudesweet, 281, 306; Isaan Dancehall, 271, 281, 289; Soma, 281; Tiger Translate, 293; Trasher, 281, 306 Pathum Thani, 207, 217 Pathumwan, 128 Patong Beach, 279 Patpong, 49, 122, 126, 279-80 Pattaya, 112, 117, 122, 223, 236, 247, 252, 266, 279 pawnshop, 66, 69 PC Air, 116 Penang, 69 penis, 111, 144, 188-91, 204; tattoos on, 185; tiger penis, 271; also palad khik People’s Party, 229 Pepsi 28, 32, 100, 148 Persian influence, 14, 63, 67, 90, 302 pha khao ma (all-purpose loincloth), 90, 110, 185 phallic charms; see palad khik pha sin (tube skirt), 91 pha yan; see yantra Phetchabun, 37 Phibunsongkhram (Phibun) 10, 12, 91, 95, 101, 104-5, 128, 163, 229, 300 phii; see ghosts, spirits phiphat (Thai classical music), 228, 264 Phitsanulok, 35, 46, 84, 94 Phnom Rung, 222 phoom panya (local wisdom), 230, 273, 305 photography, 7, 14-6, 17, 80, 96, 98, 110, 104-105, 118, 146-7, 148-52, 158-61, 167, 175, 214, 218, 221, 268, 280, 283, 198, 300, 306, 310; group, 104, 130; photostickers, 130 Phra Arthit Road, 230, 292, 294 phra ek (lead actor), 109, 253, 264 phra phim; see amulets Pinklao, 41 Phra Pradaeng, 65, 251 phra ratchathan (national dress, male), 91, 255 Phrae, 26, 86, 90, 92, 173 Phuket, 9, 69, 70, 83, 112, 117, 126, 148, 236, 266-267; gay festival, 112, 114, 117 phu yai (senior people), 79, 247, 276, 279 pick-up trucks, 36, 46, 58, 84, 140, 143, 147, 153, 235-6, 299; also songtaew piercings, 111 pin (mandolin), 77 piracy (fakes), 11, 153-5, 283; also copying, fakes pla tapian (fish mobile), 192, 195 plastic surgery, 104, 263 pleng peua cheewit; see Songs For Life Ploenwan, 300, 306, 309 poetry, 100, 163, 283; Luang Mongkhonrat, 134; Montri Umavijani, 237; Sunthorn Phu, 163; Zakariya Amatya, 294 police, 43, 50-2, 60, 75, 78-9, 90-1, 111, 115, 117, 131, 153, 187-8, 208, 235-6, 242-7, 271, 276, 280; radio station, 180; booths, 80, 131-132 politicians: Abhisit Vejjajiva, 100; Anurak Jureemas, 105; Banharn Silpa-archa, 101; Bhichit Rattakul, 69, 82, 230; Bush, George W, 57; Chamlong Srimuang, 94; Chavalit Yongchaiyudh, 100; Chuwit Kamolvisit, 247; Democrat Party, 222; ministers, 75, 100, 110, 128, 201, 247, 255, 273, Purachai Piemsomboon, 283; Prem Tinsulanonda, 92, 301; Samak Sundaravej, 62, 284; Sarit Thanarat, 301; Sanoh Thienthong 244; Sonthi Limthongkul, 222; Surakiart Sathirathai, 57; Surin Pitsuwan, 153; Uraiwan Thienthong, 103; Worawat Ua-apinyakul, 191; also Kukrit Pramoj, Phibun, protests, Thaksin Shinawatra politics, 15, 209, 229, 301; also elections; ministries; protest pollution, 26, 45, 48, 55, 75, 85, 125, 150, 233; light, 62; noise, 73; visual, 80-3 pop culture, 7, 9-17, 56, 60, 105, 129-32, 161, 173, 191, 211, 218, 226, 230, 237, 252, 258-61, 288-9, 290-5, 298-311 popular culture, 7, 9-17, 52, 231, 292, 295, 298-311 Portuguese influence, 10, 14, 30, 32, 69, 127 possession; see mediums postage stamps, 80, 131, 158 Prachuab Khiri Khan, 159, 251 prai (herb), 109, 273 prajiad (boxer’s bicep amulet), 238, 240 Pranburi, 49, 64, 68 prang (Khmer style temple tower), 189 prisoners, 87, 111, 138, 143-4, 205, protests, 14, 52, 75, 95, 111, 139, 163, 209, 222, 255, 265, 282-4, 290-1, 304, 307; Oct 1973, 282-4, 291; Oct 1976, 282-4, 291; May 1992, 52, 246, 284, 294; May 2010, 52, 98, 222, 301-2, 311; Pak Moon Dam, 284; also October; Red Shirts, Yellow Shirts prostitution, 48, 105, 112, 280, 286; also go-go, massage public space, 12, 78, 82-3, 117, 136, 140, 151, 286, 301 public transport, 50-2, 66, 115, 153, 177; BTS SkyTrain, 41, 60, 78-9, 107, 151-152, 260, 298; subway, 58, 75, 109, 201, 310; trains 15, 33, 35, 48, 52, 66, 118, 160, 166, 178, 260, 298, 307; also buses, boats, taxis puppets, 60, 131, 235, 265; shadow, 72, 131, 228, 311 queens: Queen Sirikit, 91, 104, 158-59, 163; birthday, 159; Suriyothai, 159; Thao Srisudachan, 160; also films: Suriyothai Queen Sirikit Botanical Garden, 271 radio, 286, 289, 291; Bangkok Radio For Men, 116; Jor Sor 100, 180; Ruam Duay Chuay Kun, 180; Shock, The, 218; also DJs, FAT; Luuk Thung FM90 rajapataen (Rama V era official dress), 90, 91, 158 ram muay (boxer’s ritual dance), 238 ram wong (circle dance), 287 Rama IX Café, 263-5 Ramakien (Thai version of Indian Ramayana epic), 183, 205, 207, 253, 299, 311; Hanuman, 58, 183, 211, 253, 299; Rama, 107, 166, 205, 253, 271; Thotsakan (Ravanna), 207, Sida (Sita), 205, 253 Ramkhamhaeng Stone, 126 Ratchaburi, 231 Ratchadamnoen Avenue, 62, 136, 159, 161 Ratchadamnoen Stadium, 240 Ratchadaphisek Road, 52, 122, 280 Ratchaprasong, 16, 74, 171, 222-223, 310-1 Rattanakosin/Bangkok era (1782-), 126, 300 Rattanakosin Island Plan, 82 RCA (Royal City Ave), 280-281 recycling, 7, 9, 14, 29, 38, 46, 84-7, 138, 141, 144-145, 298, 301, 304-7 Red Bull, 271, 274-6, 278, 280; Red Bull X-Park, 276 Red Shirts, 14-15 52, 75, 95, 98, 149, 163, 180, 209, 222, 284, 291, 302, 311 reflexology, 121; also massage restaurants (raan ahaan), 20, 22, 28, 35, 46, 48-9, 62, 65, 69, 277; wildlife, 271; also Greyhound, 261; MahaNaga, 201; Soul Food Mahanakorn, 277, 306-7 retro style, 10, 14, 15, 26, 36, 55, 87, 128, 149, 161, 258, 265, 271, 281, 289, 292, 298300, 305-6 riab roi (tidiness, decorum), 11, 22, 71, 86, 110, 112 rickshaws (samlor), 46, 54-7, 178, 198 Roi-et, 285 rong beer (beer hall), 279 Royal Bangkok Sports Club (RBSC), 247 Royal Institute, 127 Index & Glossary 327 Royal Plaza, 222 royalty, 33, 60-3, 67, 90-2, 95, 98, 101, 103-4, 158-61, 175, 178, 186, 201, 205, 221, 232, 238, 250, 266, 286, 300; anthem, 160-1, 299, 300; barges, 46, 60-61, 70, 74, 163, 166; Narai Songsuban barge, 166; birthdays, 62-3, 158, 161, 289; cremations, 194; Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn, 158; insignia, 63, 161, 163, 166-7, 299; language, 127; portraits, 6, 17, 63, 148-9, 150, 158-61, 175, 178, 181, 223; Prince Damrong, 128; Prince Narisara (Naris) Nuwattiwong, 60; Princess Dara Ratsami,104; Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, 138, 158, 161, 163; Princess Mother (Somdet Ya), 93, 158, 160; Princess Suphankalaya, 159, 161; Princess Ubonrat, 161; Princess Valai-alongkorn, 93; Queen Sirikit, 158-9; Royal Seal & Warrant, 166-7; also kings, queens ruesi (hermit), 126, 183, 184, 207, 211-212 rum muay (boxer’s ritual dance), 238-9 rural culture, 11, 35-6, 42, 44, 52, 60, 62, 70, 77-8, 94, 100, 106, 110, 114, 116, 119, 131-2, 136, 143, 146-50, 204-6, 214-7, 219, 226-36, 259, 267, 271-3, 285-9, 299, 301, 303, 305, 310-1; in soaps, 253-6 saan phra phum; see spirit houses Sakhon Nakhon, 41, 105, 148, 217, 273 sak yan; see tattoos sala (pavilion), 46, 126, 141, 269 saleng; see trash recyclers Samphran Elephant Ground, 233 Samut Prakarn, 37, 194, 223, 249 Samut Songkhram, 76, 191 samuun prai; see herbalism 328 Index & Glossary Sanam Luang, 64, 142, 222, 282, 284, 289 Sanskrit, 101, 127-8, 152, 187, 219, 261 sanuk (fun sensibility), 7, 12, 20, 41, 74, 127, 129, 144, 180, 226-36, 245, 247, 259, 262-9, 274, 277, 300 sao ek (main pillar of stilt house), 66, 149, 164, 215 sakdina (feudal ranks), 299 Saphan Khwai, 198 Saraburi, 204, 232, 243 Sathorn Road, 51, 66; pier, 43 sawasdee (hello/goodbye), 128, 289, 300 sayasaat; see black magic scams, 11, 47, 55, 74, 211, 268 scarves, sacred, 49, 58, 66, 82, 149, 163-5, 177-8, 220-1, 239, endpapers schools, 7, 43, 44, 70, 77, 79, 110, 115-6, 130, 153, 161, 163, 197, 248, 283, 307; international, 98; pupils, 33, 47, 57, 90-91, 92-4, 101, 187, 217, 228, 251, 290, 306; in temples, 170, 237; Vachiravudh College, 93; Watthana Vithayalai, 93; also education SEA Write award, 294 security guards, 70, 73-5, 183, 275, 298, 302 sen (body energy lines), 120 seua win (motorcycle taxi jacket), 50-53, 187, 298, 301-3 7-Eleven, 85, 110, 156-7, 165, 175, 196 sex, 10, 12, 14, 98, 105, 112-7, 118, 122, 130, 176, 189, 191, 252, 255, 260, 263, 265-6, 273-5, 286, 291, 300; infidelity, 254, 264; premarital, 122; sex industry, 113-4; sexism, 91, 221, 248; sexual revolution, 12, 112; sexual tattoos, 185; also aphrodisiacs, gig, hom kaem, jao chu, mia noi, prostitution, virginity sexuality, 12, 112-8, 254, 286; seua bai (bisexual ‘tiger’), 114; transsexuals, 112-7; transvestites, 114; also gay, kathoey, tom-dee shadow puppets, 228, 311 shamans (mor phii), 183, 185, 192, 198-9, 208 Shan (Tai Yai, of Burma), 90, 108, 185, 190, 231, 283 sharing attitude, 9,14, 26, 51, 130, 149, 180, 226, 268, 275, 277-81, 294, 304 shoes, 9, 51, 66, 90-1, 95, 98,104, 106, 110, 198, 222, 266; remove, 111, 142, 148 shophouses, 22, 26, 36, 64, 66, 68, 72, 82, 134, 137-38, 140, 142, 147-48, 153, 192-4, 219, 268, 305-6; bars, 280; neo-classical, 69 shopping, 151, 192, 194; Ikea, 146; superstores, 86, 171, 196; Tang To Kang gold shop, 167; TescoLotus, 56, 170-1, endpapers; also convenience stores, malls; Siam Square shrines, 14, 16, 58, 151, 161, 162-3, 168, 177, 192-3, 217, 219-23, 242, 246, 286; at accident sites, 177, 217, 221; Chinese, 219; Chao Mae Tubtim Shrine, 191; in businesses, 222; Erawan Shrine, 209, 221-2; in homes, 222; in restaurants, 222; modern, 220, 221; of multiple gods, 223; Phra Nang Cave Shrine, Krabi 190-91; Pratu Pah cave shrine, 208; Sanctuary of Truth, 223; San Chao Pho Krut, 168; Trimurti shrine, 222-23; also spirit houses Si Satchanalai, 286 Siam (kingdom), 46, 63, 66, 149, 158-9, 205, 234, 299, 301-2 Siam Square, 104, 106, 199, 311 Siamese, 63, 67, 92, 94, 103, 106, 126, 131, 133, 142, 146, 163, 233, 268, 300; cats, 43; fighting fish 242-3; twins, 218, 226-7, 229 Sida; see Ramakien silk, 63, 90-2, 103, 102-5, 144, 148, 158, 168, 232, 236, 254, 304-5; silkworm, 33 Silom Road, 78-79, 103, 156-7, 210, 215 Singapore, 22, 41, 69, 85, 116, 218, 280, 294 singing, 230, 252, 260-261, 264, 268, 282-94, 306; singing contests, 230, 252, 286, 261 Sino-Thais, 38, 92, 97, 101, 115, 142, 147, 155, 172, 193-4, 201, 236, 246, 257, 300-1; names, 100; also Chinese siwilai (civilised), 105, 147, 299, 301, 303 skin colour, 38, 93, 95, 104, 251, 259, 266-7, 285; whitening, 13, 104, 106-7, 109, 258 SkyTrain (BTS), 78, 107 slums, 38, 82, 153, 305, 307 SMEs (Small & Medium Size Enterprises), 310 smiles (yim), 15, 17, 41, 106, 110, 129-31, 226, 232, 263, 279, 292, 300, 303 SMS, 128 snakes, 42, 126, 139-40, 189, 204-5, 271 sniff kiss; see kissing soap operas (lakhon nam nao/tee-wee), 112, 116, 192, 205, 211, 214, 253-7; Dok Som See Thong, 257; Khoo Kam, 254; La-ong Dao, 256; Mae Nak Phra Khanong, 254; Nua Mek 2, 255; Nuan Nang Khang Khiang, 256; Sai Lohit, 254; Songkhram Nang Fah, 254-5 social media, 13, 14, 45, 114, 116, 128, 130, 154, 212, 252, 261, 281, 295, 307; also Facebook, Instagram, Internet, Twitter soi (lane), 13-4, 37, 42, 50-2, 70, 110, 153, 280, 298-307; pak soi (mouth of a lane), 7, 20-1, 50, 298; Soi Cowboy, 42, 279 somtam, 267, 117 Songkhla, 69, 228 Songkran (Thai new year), 103, 106, 171, 226, 232-5, 244; goddess of, 207; Miss Songkran, 249-51 Songs for Life (pleng puer cheewit), 13, 15, 79, 143, 275, 282-4, 285, 290, 305; also Art For Life songthaew (pick-up bus), 58, 60, 180, 306 soong-tam; see hi-lo sound & light shows, 11, 234-235 Southern Thailand & Southerners, 69, 117, 168, 172, 242; Deep South, 128, 300; festivals, 176, 228; food, 215; houses, 69, 146 Southeast Asia, 56, 70, 90, 148, 194, 304 spas, 43, 80, 97, 104, 107, 109, 120-3, 154, 266, 270-3, 299, 301, 305; also herbs, massage spells (khathaa), 183-5, 187, 189, 191-2, 196, 209, 273; Maha Ongkarn, 198 spirit houses, 14, 63, 131, 156-7, 164-5, 171, 193, 198, 203, 214, 218, 219-23, 247; Chinese, 193 spirits (phii), 11, 48, 58, 82, 100, 111, 137, 139, 169, 183, 186, 188, 191-2, 196, 198, 209, 212, 214-5, 217-23, 236, 250, 286, 311; also deities, ghosts, kumarn thong, mediums, spirit houses Sri Racha, 169 State Tower, 8, 66, 69, 152 status, 10-11, 16, 36, 38, 43, 63-4, 70, 84, 87, 90, 95-6, 101, 104, 109, 111-2, 115, 117, 128, 142, 146-9, 151, 154, 160, 171, 175, 193, 202, 204, 240, 253, 255, 266, 274, 277, 298-307 streetfood, 10, 14, 18-23, 289, 30-41, 46-7, 65, 83, 117, 142, 226, 230, 232, 267, 275, 298, 300-1, 304, 306 streetlife, 13, 50, 82, 84, 268, 298, 300, 303-5, 304 string, sacred white, 51, 149, 175, 178 students, 15-6, 44, 48, 84-85, 100, 125, 130, 250, 274, 280, 288, 291-4, 302-3; exams, 173, 192, 212, in beauty contests, 250; radicals, 282-3, 290; uniform, 91, 94 subcultures, 10-12, 129, 2905, 306 suburbia, 45, 60, 68, 70-2, 85, 114, 133, 144, 146-7, 149, 151-3, 194, 221, 230, 277, 281, Sukhothai, 191, 230, 235, 242-243, 286; Sukhothai era (c11th-14th century) 126, 133, 233, 235, 250, 300 Sukhumvit Road, 22, 32, 73, 78, 121, 218, 277, 281 supernatural powers, 174, 177, 185-7, 208-23 Suphanburi, 7, 286, 289 Surin, 44; Elephant RoundUp, 232 Suvarnabhumi Airport; see Bangkok Airport taboos, 10, 11, 14, 87, 100-1, 118, 162-5, 169, 176, 191, 255, 259-60, 291, 292, 301, 305 Tai Yai; see Shan Taiwan, 86 takian (wood), 46-7, 137, 215; nang takian (ghost), 215, 218 takraw (foot volleyball game), 151, 268 takrud (rolled foil amulet), 172, 176 Takua Pa, 69 talad; see markets Talad Noi, 69 talismans, 172-81, 188-99, 201, 239; African, 196; Astral Gemstone Talismans, 162; gourds, 45, 179, 192-194, 210; Chinese, 172, 192, 196; also amulets, banknotes, palad khik talok; see comedy, humour tamnak song (medium’s den), 209 tattoos, 11, 14, 17, 111, 127, 172-3, 182-7, 188-9, 201, 205, 211, 240-1, 273, 302-3, 305; Festival, 13, 17, 152, 154, 185-7; invisible, 185, 187 tattoo masters: Noo Kanpai, Ajahn, 183, 187; Luang Phor Phoem, 183; Toi Dabot, Ajahn, 184 taxis, 10, 14, 16, 29, 41, 48, 55, 95, 160, 168, 177-81, 201, 205, 221, 285-6, 298 tea (nam cha), 13, 24-7, 29, 32, 96, 154, 171, 270, 276 teak, 29, 42, 45-6, 71, 189, 214, 304; furniture, 214, 218; houses, 66, 80, 136, 146-150, 152, 214, 222 teens (wairoon), 30, 87, 93, 105, 110, 128, 130-1, 135, 153, 173, 185-187, 189, 192, 218, 226, 236, 253, 258-9, 289-92 television, 11, 38, 116, 127, 160-1, 192, 203, 206, 207, 211, 230, 249, 253-7, 260; Academy Fantasia, 252, 259-60, 261; Channel 3, 256; Channel 7, 255-6; chat shows, 254, 260-1, 264; game shows, 206, 259-60, 263; reality TV, 14, 206, 240, 252, 257, 259, 261; Ten O’Clock Square, 262; talent shows, 259, 261, 291; Toei Tour Thai (Ladyboys Tour Thailand), 116; also soap operas temple fair (ngan wat), 7, 14, 105, 151, 218, 226-31, 259, 286, 289, 298-299, 305, 307, 309; at Golden Mount, 22930 temples; see wat textiles, trad., 102-5, 299, 305; also silk Tha Prachan, 41, 270 Thai Airways, 97, 121, 168 Thai Astrologers Assoc., 204 Thai-Chinese Chamber of Commerce, 67 Thai Dream, 149, 151-5, 256 Thai Kadi Research Institute, 164 Thailand Assoc. of Blind, 77 Thailand Creative & Design Centre (TCDC), 191, 300301, 303, 304, 307, 310 Thailand Exhibitions & Conventions Bureau (TCEB), 309 Thai language, 7, 101-2, 116, 126-8, 165, 179, 185, 198, 210, 263, 265, 283, 300, 303, 306; imported words, 128, 201; rhyming, 100-1, 201, 290; signing, 79 Thainglish, 130, 151 Thainess (khwam pen Thai), 7, 9-11, 13, 15-16, 36, 44, 57, 92, 105-6, 155, 158, 187, 233, 240, 254, 276, 295, 298-311; un-Thai, 11, 106, 165, 298, 300-2 Thaksin Shinawatra, 15, 163, 222, 284, 301, 310 tham boon; see merit making than samai (up-to-date), 236 theatre; see dance themeparks, 151, 232, 326, 300, 306 thep (angels), 132, 185, 214, 215, 282; thepphanom (guardian angel), 58, 70, 72 Thonburi, 41, 45, 52, 70, 86, 133, 140, 150, 158, 200, 208-9, 230; Thonburi era (1767-1782), 300 Thonglor, 171 tigers, 35, 126, 168, 174, 183-7, 207, 271, 292 tom-dee; see lesbians topiary (mai dut), 17, 81, 133-6, 138-9, 144 tourism, 9-11, 35, 44-6, 55-6, 82-3, 116-7, 121-3, 128, 180, 187, 191, 208-9, 231-6, 247, 250, 258, 266-9, 279-81, 283, 301, 305, 309; also backpackers Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), 209; Amazing Thailand, 11 T-Pop (Thai pop music), 275, 282, 285-6, 289, 290-5 traditional medicine, 26, 33, 124-5, 197-8, 217, 123, 2703; also herbalism, massage, spas tradition, 9-16, 26, 29, 49, 58-60, 68, 79, 94, 103-4, 106, 110-1, 112, 120-5, 128, 231-2, 133-8, 141-4, 146-54, 159, 163, 169, 176, 183, 187, 188, 197-9, 205, 212, 219, 222, 230-1, 232-5, 235, 238-9, 241-2, 249-50, 253-4, 259, 263-4, 270-3, 290, 294, 298-307 traffic, 13, 36-8, 44-5, 50-60, 73-9, 84, 90, 131-132, 153, 161, 177-81, 268, 281; radio stations, 180; on water, 46, 178 trains; see public transport trances, 183-4, 186, 208-10 trash: bins, 7, 85, 144-145, 307; recyclers (saleng), 11, 84-7, 86-7, 298, 307 Trat, 132 Index & Glossary 329 trees, 64, 80-2, 153-5, 136-40, 140, 144, 153, 164-5, 172, 189, 219, 221, 229, 236, 307; spirits, 137, 215 tribes: hill tribes, 90, 305; Kui, 44; Tai, 190, 246; Tai Yuen, 138; also Shan (Tai Yai) trucks, 41, 48-52, 55, 73, 85, 144, 153, 283, 303, 307; drivers, 52, 274, 280, 286; truck art, 7, 16, 57, 58-61, 179, 299, 306; also pick-ups T-shirts, 95, 106, 110, 126, 151, 163, 173, 200, 299, 306, 309, 311 tuk-tuk, 1, 11, 14, 41, 46, 48, 354-7, 63, 86, 111, 178, 180, 298, 303, 306 turtles, 62, 164, 184, 190 Twitter, 14, 16 Udon Thani 149, 151, 217, 228 UNESCO, 127, 243 unalom (Buddha’s forehead symbol), 179, 185, 196, 201 underground economy, 11, 17, 50-2, 73, 81, 212, 242-7, 273, 281; antiquities, 72; beggars, 80-1; immigrants, 292; logging, 44, 139, 143-4; poaching, 35, 44; also gambling, gangsters, mafia, prostitution, scams uniforms, 10, 38, 50, 73-5, 90-5, 103-5, 110, 158-61, 163, 255, 302; school, 91-4, 299, 301-2; military, 95, university, 93-94 universities, 16, 154, 310; Chiang Mai, 303; Chulalongkorn, 93, 284, 303; Ramkhamhaeng, 94; Thammasat, 26, 85, 125, 90-1, 243, 283-4; also students, uniforms vendors, 9-11, 13-14, 20-7, 29, 32-41, 46, 48, 78, 80, 94, 106, 121, 140, 142-3, 151, 164, 176, 188, 194, 206, 223, 226-31, 256, 261, 268, 2701, 272-3, 274, 298, 300-1, 302-3, 304, 306-7; amulets, 172-6; carts, 36-39, 300-1; cocktails, 280; fighting fish, 330 Index & Glossary 240-3; fruit, 21-2, 37, 40-1, 275; toys, 37, 40, 231; lottery, 246-7; also floating markets vernacular design, 13, 128, 298, 301, 303-11 Victorian style, 66, 300 Vietnamese influence, 26; Hanoi, 66 Vietnam War, 122, 283 virginity, 114, 122, 250, 256, 273 Vishnu, 158, 166-7, 222 VJs, 259 waan yaa (magic herbal roots), 172-3, 197, 273 wai (prayer-like salutation), 4, 58, 70-2, 130-1, 132, 155, 168, 177, 187, 221, 238, 300 wai khru (rite to honour masters), 120, 164, 183-7, 200, 212, 208-9, 234, 238-40 wairoon; see teens walking, 81-3, 170, 304 Walking Streets (pedestrian zones), 82, 86, 230, 232 wanipok; see buskers wat (temple), 9, 26, 42-4, 48, 63, 64, 70, 72, 82, 85, 103, 106, 115, 117, 124, 126, 134, 138, 164, 165, 169-71, 172, 175, 184, 203, 205, 215, 217, 221, 223, 226-31, 242, 246, 259, 263, 270, 286, 289, 309; social role, 212, 230; design, 7, 12, 58, 60, 63, 66, 68, 70, 72, 167, 220; herbalism, 270; schools, 170, 237; Wat Amarinthara, 133; Wat Arun, 189, 230; Wat Baan Rai, 174; Wat Bang Phra, 183-4, 186; Wat Boworniwet, 170; Wat Don Wai, 69, 137; Wat In, 22, 230-1, 289; Wat Gate, 135; Wat Khan Thom, 229; Wat Liam, 227-228; Wat Loka Ya Suttharam, 17; Wat Mahabut, 217; Wat Pak Nam, 175; Wat Pho, 120-121; Wat Phra Dhammakaya, 171, 220; Wat Phra Kaew, 64; Wat Prayoonwong, 70-1, 133, 150-151; Wat Phut Udom, 207; Wat Rakhang, 164, 175; Wat Ratchabophit, 68; Wat Sothon, 220; Wat Suan Plu, 9; Wat Tum Phrathat, 208-209; also murals watersports, 267-8 weddings & marriage, 30, 64, 96, 101, 104, 117, 118-9, 138, 153, 164, 167, 169, 181, 201, 219, 236, 250-1, 254, 260; polygamy, 112; also mia noi Western influence, 10-12, 14-15, 22-3, 28-9, 32, 46, 60, 66-9, 80-3, 91-5, 100, 104-7, 110-1, 112-6, 128, 132, 141-2, 147, 151-5, 169, 176, 218, 231, 239-41, 24851, 273, 299, 305, 307, 310-1; clothing, 91-95, 110, 163, 222, 239, 290-2; facial features, 154, 248, 251, 259; fortune telling, 163, 165, 205-7; gardening, 135, 139; medicine 26; music, 180, 283, 285-9, 290, 299; also luuk khreung Western Thailand, 134 whisky, 7, 14, 87, 98, 154, 232, 236, 268-9, 270-1, 273, 274, 277-81, 306; Johnnie Walker, 277, 278; Mekong, 278; scotch, 278-279; Saeng Som, 278-279; also yaa dong whitening creams; see skin ‘white Asians’, 115-6, 259 Wichit Wadhakan, Luang, 300 wildlife trade, 271 win; see motorsai taxi rank winyaan (soul), 215 Wireless Road, 81 wires, 44, 63, 80-3, 135, 149, 156, 186, 310 women; see female wood; see takian, teak, trees World War I, 60 World War II, 20, 22, 48, 91, 104, 112, 264, 279 world records, 14, 120-1, 236 writers, 261, 294, 306; Anake Nawikamune, 16, 306; Anderson, Benedict, 300; Anuman Rajadhon, 163, 172, 186, 197; Clewley, John, 231, 283, 285, 286; Darwin, Charles, 43; Garland, Alex 266; Hem Wejakorn, 214; Kerr, Alex, 7, 80, 83, 129; Jit Bhumisak, 282; Klausner, William 74, 128, 267; Nidhi Eoseewong, 212, 221, 311; Pimsai Amranand, 133, 136; Prabda Yoon, 294; Pracha Suveeranont, 10, 12-13, 126-8, 304-5, 309-11; SP Somtow, 217, 256-7; Richie, Donald, 130, 131; Sanitsuda Ekachai, 99, 175, 212, 221; scriptwriters, 254-6; Seksan Prasertkul, 284; Sulak Sivaraksa, 94; also Kukrit Pramot, poets, SEA Write Award; quoted writers, see Sources, 313-5 X-treme sport, 276 yaa baa (‘crazy drug’, kind of amphetamine), 178, 274, 280 yaa dom (inhaler), 124-5 yaa dong (herbal whisky), 14, 270-3, 274, 299 yaa dope (herbal tonics), 271 yaa hom (herb inhaler), 124-5 yaa mong (herb balm), 124-5 yaam; see security guard yan lipao (fine vine), 104 yantra (cabalistic diagrams), 92, 128, 178-9, 192, 196; in tattoos, 182-85, 187; on cloth, 171-3, 174, 194, 239 Yasothorn, 176, 232, 234-5 Yellow Shirts, 13, 14-15, 94-5, 149, 163-164, 209, 222, 284, 291-2, 302 yim; see smiles youth trends, 10, 99, 105, 106, 109-11, 116, 118, 149, 151, 173, 191, 223, 230-1, 259, 275-6, 284, 290-5; also cute, fashion, indy, teens yuppies, see class ZEN dept store, 16, 97-9, 129, 311; also Central zodiac wheels, 165, 184, 201, 204-7; also astrology