Owner`s Club of Southern California
Transcription
Owner`s Club of Southern California
Owner’s Club of Southern California Established 1978 Monthly Journal February 2013 BSA Artwork from 1939 The Piled Arms is a publication of The BSA Owner’s Club of Southern California. We are a member driven publication and rely solely on your participation. Technical articles, photos and “Member Experiences” and opinions are essential Meet Our Directors Burt Barrett (661) 832-6109…..…….….…………....President Steve Ortiz (951) 245-5287………….Membership/Secretary Barry Sulkin (310) 569-1383……….Web Master / Treasurer Barbara Barrett (661) 832-6109……………..Events/Director Clive Brooks (714) 771-2534……Piled Arms Editor/Director Craig Rich (562) 868-9389 ……….………………….….Director Jody Nicholas (714) 730-9257...….……………….…...Director Piled Arms Production Staff Clive Brooks (714) 771-2534…[email protected]; Contributing Members and Named Sources The Piled Arms, 820 South Esplanade St. Orange, Ca. 92869 Please submit your articles by E-Mail or direct mail. Deadline for submissions is the 8th of each month. Members may place Non Commercial “4-Sale” or “Want” Ads in the Piled Arms Free for 90 days, without renewal. Contact Editor for “Commercial Ad” rates and information. Librarian….John Gardner….310-920-3393 BSAOCSC Regalia… Randy Ressell….714-448-1179 BSA Owner’s Club Web Site www.bsaocsc.org Front Cover Photo submitted by ; Editor Rear cover; Jim Tomich 2 President’s Page ——--by Burt Barrett——BSA A65 Parts Incompatibility I am in the process of finishing up the restoration of a customers 1971 BSA Thunderbolt. I am beginning to wish I had never seen this "motorbike". First, it was a Bitsa bike my customer purchased on EBay. When it arrived at my shop, I noticed it didn’t have a head steady, and the rear motor-mount, if you could call it that, was part of a alternator strap from a Chevy. None of the motor-mount bolts were right, and the engine number didn’t match the frame. I stripped it, and sent the painted parts off for powder-coating, sent the engine castings to be "deburred" (tumbled), and sent the rims off for chroming, along with the fenders. I finished the rolling chassis without much trouble. My problems began when I picked up the cylinder block from the powdercoater. It was bored +020, and cylinders miked out ok, no taper. I removed the studs for powder -coating. When I had paid for the powder-coating job on the cylinder, the powder-coater pointed out four hairline cracks, running from the outside stud holes into the cylinder bore. He said he didn’t notice it until the cylinder barrel was removed from the oven. It was easily seen then because oil was oozing out of the casting via the cracks. I was now the proud owner of a shiny black powder-coated doorstop. Well, no big deal I guess, and found another cylinder. It was standard, and didn’t have any cracks in the stud holes. It was an early A65, and I thought it would fit, so I had it bored to fit the pistons, and powder-coated. I built the lower end, and tried to fit the barrel. Oops, the holes in the flange were too small. Oh well, I’ll just drill ‘em out. No big deal. But when that job was complete, they still wouldn’t fit, the front two studs in the crankcase were about a quarter of a bolt hole off. So I took it to a friend with a mill, and milled the front two holes out so they would fit the crankcase. End of problem, right? Nope. I installed the barrel, and was unable to fit the tall 71style flange nuts. The lower fin over the crankcase stud was too close to the flange. The 71 barrel has part of the fin cutaway for clearance. I finally got it on and was going to fit the cylinder head, when I noticed the rear two head bolt holes in the barrel were a smaller size, looks like 5/16ths, and as you all know they are 26 tpi (I think). Then my son Joe, noticed the valve cover wouldn’t fit the head. Great! The head now has new guides, and valve job, and was ready to bolt on. This head was on the machine when I got it, and it had the finned type valve cover. Not knowing the 1967-70 head is different than the 1971 head, I just bought a 71 valve cover. It looks just like the earlier model, except it has two bolt holes for the head steady. The earlier head had 1/4" studs for the valve cover, and the 71 head has 5/16ths studs. That’s not all, the head and valve cover for the 71 is wider, and will not fit the earlier head. So….what to do? I guess I will look for a 71 Thunderbolt cylinder, and head, and peddle the other stuff. Another lesson learned the hard way. Burt Barrett 3 Editors Page:- Oilyleaks by Clive Brooks My Fellow Enthusiasts… , At the moment I’m sitting at home recuperating from hip replacement surgery, it all went to plan and I might be recovered enough to ride the Inland Empire ride. (see page 17 for date). I spoke to Paul Elmore the other day, who will be hosting the ride, and he mentioned his wife Ellen, had broken her arm trying to start the motor on her log splitter. They make ‘em tough in the Inland Empire. I wish Ellen a speedy recovery. I think our complete 2013 events calendar has been tweaked to the point of being semi-reliable and can be downloaded from our website www.bsaocsc.org , I encourage all of our members who have internet access to visit our site, where you’ll find Members Ads, and links to other motorcycle events. Also you may have noticed that we have details of the BSAOCNC’s San Jose Show and Swap meet, entry forms can be downloaded from either our website or theirs www.bsaocnc.org, or for those of you still in the “stone age”, contact me. I ‘d like to thank those of you who have individually, donated funds to the BSAOCSC, to help out with our fiscal shortfalls, this is much appreciated. Once again I urge you all to send me your stories, articles, British Bike tech tips, photos, and commentaries for us all to share, after all this is your newsletter. Thanks again to those who have already contributed material to the Piled Arms, and I hope you continue to do so. I desperately need fresh articles to keep this going. Members please be aware that sometime in the next few months we will be publishing our current Membership Roster, containing your name, address, phone # and email address. If you DON’T want your info published please , call or email me . Editor BSAOC / SC members, we are updating our e-mail list in order to contact you for any last minute changes in our calendar events, so please contact Steve Ortiz at ; [email protected]. CHECK YOUR MEMBERSHIP RENEWAL DATE (see front of envelope) MAIL CHECK OR MONEY ORDER FOR $25.00 U.S. ($40.00 Overseas) Make Checks Payable To: BSAOC/SC Mail To: BSAOC/SC, 11125 Westwood Blvd, Culver City, CA 90230 4 Poets Corner Typical Biker by Art Sirota I'm just a typical biker, no dif'rent from the rest I love my country, wife and car, but motorcycles best And that's 'cause they're reliable, they never let me down when I dump money in them, the wheels keep goin' 'round My lifestyle's not erratic, I'm not obsessed with bikes I'm just an individual, who's found out what he likes That's why my bathtub's full of carbs, they're gettin' a good soak the rings they leave around the tub, don't bother this here bloke The artwork that adorns my walls, has universal appeal no Rembrandts or Picassos here, just shots of British steel Two Triumphs grace the entryway, a Norton's in the den my BSA's stored in the room, usually reserved for MEN The oven holds a gearbox shell, from my pre-unit Beezer while roller bearing outer races, cool off in the freezer I've memorized the TT course, and know each curve by name so when the baby came last year, we named him Ballacraine © 2013 Art Sirota 5 The Phoenix, Arizona Swap Meet Report by Steve Ortiz As a few of you know, I retired from 30+ years at Northrop Grumman with some goals of traveling, getting my bikes in order and hanging out with Anita, Kids and Friends.. I've since got a couple of trips in and had promised "Tucson Gerry" Thurein that I would someday get over to their Phoenix Swap Meet to reciprocate for all the times they spent attending our swap meets. So when the date rolled around I took the opportunity to head east, visit some friends and attend their Swap Meet. Heading East, I spent the day in a rental car racing to the snowy mountain region and spending Friday & Saturday nights with friends in Payson, AZ. Buddy "Roy" also retired from Northrop and found love in Payson (hot rods) and a wife too! Saturday was spent showing me around and meeting other motor heads, one being Butch Tucker who's claim to fame is being a Master of Pin-striping and friend of Kenneth "Von Dutch" Howard. Butch showed me around his fantastic garage (where the toilet is even pinstriped) and when I asked him about a story that Barry Sulkin told me regarding Von Dutch, Butch gave me a copy of a envelope Von Dutch had created where he had painted on the postage stamp, which was in fact processed by the postal service! After leaving Payson on Sunday, I traveled down the hill to Phoenix and found the swap meet being held in a small mall parking lot. The size of the meet was a bit 6 than ours, and the organizers said it was growing. Fortunately it had room for expansion (which is something our club needs to think of). I found "Tucson Gerry" wheeling and dealing next to a former BSAOCSC member "Byron Boaz”, and was not really expecting to see many "Red Hats," but low and behold, there was Frank Forster chatting up someone on his cell phone. I also ran into a few other friends and will plan on returning to Phoenix for the next Winter Swap Meet. So if next year's swap meet date is anything like this one, you may be able to plan a Sunday in Phoenix and visit Sedona / Northern Arizona on your way to Las Vegas for the big auction. Ride (and Drive) Safe! Steve O. FREE ENTRANCE TO: $$$$$ LONG BEACH SWAP MEET $$$$$ $$$$ IF YOU RIDE YOUR BIKE IN $$$$ Contact: Barry Sulkin, Treasurer, for tickets 310-569-1383, [email protected] $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ 7 Unit 650 Twins, Triumph vs BSA …..submitted by Lynn Bennett What makes people choose one vintage bike over another? Today we vintage riders tend to pick either the bike we had then or one we really wanted but couldn't have, for one reason or another. The argument seems to always come up as to which is better for a 650 twin, Triumph or BSA. For this article I shall attempt to lay out all the pro's and con's of the selection of either of these bikes, the Triumph or BSA unit 650 cc twin (circa 1960 through the mid 1970's). Engines: By the mid 1960's both BSA and Triumph had repackaged their non-unit motors into a single case for both the transmission and the engine. In each, the internals were extremely close to that used prior to unitizing. Triumph retained their separate rocker boxes, twin cams located fore and aft of the cylinder with exposed chrome tubes, sealed at each end, for the push rods, plunger style oil pump, duplex primary chain, and the triangular shaped timing chest cover. The crankshaft ran on a ball bearing on the timing side and a roller bearing on the highly loaded primary side. Triumph offered both single and twin carbureted version as did BSA. Both shared a similar crankshaft design that included a large bolted on central flywheel but a one piece forged crankshaft component. Both included a sludge trap inside the crankshaft, aluminum rods running on insert bearings on the big end and with piston pins riding in a bush (or directly on the rod end in some years). Triumph end fed the oil to the crankshaft for the rods on the timing side while BSA chose to feed the oil for the rods through a plain bearing that acted as the timing side crankshaft supporting bearing. BSA at first used a ball bearing on the crankshaft primary side but later changed it to a roller bearing. BSA used a single camshaft running behind the cylinder with a completely enclosed, one piece rocker box cast onto the head with a simple unstressed cover. The push rods ran inside a tunnel cast into the cylinder while the rockers ran on shafts that pushed into pedestals that were part of the head. So BSA totally enclosed and hid from view all of the valve gear. BSA used a triplex primary chain with a clutch assembly of virtually the same design as Triumph, which included a set of rubber shock absorbers inside the center of the clutch hub. The most basic difference is in displacement dimensions: Triumph has a longer stroke than its' bore while BSA's bore is a single millimeter larger than its' stroke. The transmission designs are equivalent, both using the classic British design of coaxial input and output (hiding the output sprocket behind the clutch) and transferring first, second, and third gear ratios through two gear sets while locking the input and output shaft together (1:1) for forth gear. Each uses a slightly different gear selector mechanism but both are flat selector plates working through shifting forks on a set of transmission shafts located one above the other. 8 (Modern bikes almost universally use a rotating shift drum.) Only the details of the transmissions are different. BSA used their standard for an oil pump, the rotary gear pump, driven off the timing side crankshaft end. BSA gets points for enclosing the valve gear eliminating leaks from push rod tubes while Triumph gets points for allowing racers to degree the cams for different advance between the exhaust and intake cam timing (only a small advantage at best for us). Triumph gets points for a slim looking motor while BSA looses points for their "power egg" engine look. It's BSA over Triumph for a stronger primary chain. BSA gets recognition for a more modern engine design with a square bore to stoke ratio while Triumph retains the old fashion long stroke motor. BSA looses big points for the crankshaft design that uses a plain bearing on the timing side and has a totally inadequate crankshaft end play control design. (Triumph uses a ball bearing on the timing side which controls the crankshaft endplay, while BSA uses an inadequate floating arrangement even in the light of axial forces from the oil pump). BSA's rotary pump has theoretical advantages but of the three that I have had apart, two were close to seizure for totally unknown reasons. Triumphs rarely need new oil pumps (double plunger oil pump). To my way of thinking Triumph wins the motor category, if only for the excellent crankshaft design, although BSA had the more modern design elsewhere in the motor. BSA's Lightning cam, used in the high end models, was much hotter than even Triumph's Bonneville TT racer's cam. If only BSA had fixed their bad crankshaft end play design (the fix is available through SRM in England and a few places in the USA) and used a plunger oil pump, they would have had the superior design, at least in my mind. Frame: Triumph's frame is straight out of the 1930's: furnace brazed tube and lug design. The frame is made up of straight and bent tubes terminated in heavy forged lugs. The frame is assembled with brass embedded brazing paste and placed in a furnace to make the brass flow by capillary action into each joint of every lug. The frame is a two piece bolt together affair after completion of the manufacturing process to which a pair of strengthening plates were later added (just behind the foot pegs). They tie the ends of the swinging arm, the front frame piece and the rear frame piece together. This makes for a heavy frame. BSA's used a welded frame assembly developed in the 1950's with their Gold Star road racing program and first used on the non-unit 650 twin. While the Triumph used a single down tube design the BSA is a twin down tube design, which is inherently more flex free. Triumphs non-unit, twin down tube frame was a disaster, breaking regularly such that it was used for only a year or two. I believe the frame design points go to BSA, overwhelmingly, due to their modern all welded super strong design. But I'm not sure any of us could tell the difference on a twisty road. Continued on page 10 9 Triumph vs BSA Continued Suspension and wheels: Both Triumph and BSA used then current design practices for their suspension components (Girling rear shocks and proprietary forks). BSA's used, in most years, an internal cartridge fork that relegated all the dampening to a piston inside of a closed tube, fed oil from the bottom through holes. The remaining volume of the lower fork leg was the oil reservoir. The cartridge piston was connected to the upper tube fork cap by a long slender rod. The rod passed through a top cap of the cartridge. The dampening action was crude compared to today's forks but not all that bad for its' time. Triumph used a shuttle valve attached to the bottom of the upper fork leg and the clearance volume between the upper and lower fork tubes to generate the required dampening action. Triumph's forks seem to work OK, again good enough for the times. BSA and Triumph are about equal as far as suspension goes. There was a marked difference in wheels between the two. The difference eventually evolved into sameness when the oil-in the- frame models appeared and slightly before. Initially BSA used Gold Star wheels (at least on the top of the line models). The front was the narrow braked Gold Star unit while the back was the really neat quick disconnect Gold Star model. The front was barely adequate while the rear was OK for the time. The rear allowed wheel removal without disconnecting the chain. The rear brake and chain wheel (with the chain going around it) were left on the bike undisturbed at wheel removal time. The power was transmitted across a fine spline arrangement. If you failed to be careful the axle could be cross-threaded (don't ask me how I know) but generally this was a superior arrangement. Triumph used full width hubs in the front but the assembly was a lot heavier than needed as it was all steel. This wheel was in later years used along with the double leading backing plate on both BSA's and Triumph's. The Triumph rear wheel looked similar to the BSA rear wheel but was one piece requiring the chain to be removed to get the wheel out of the frame. This rear wheel was not overly strong and the hub has been known to separate at the welded flange when used heavily, like in desert racing. I'd give BSA the nod for the wheels but in latter years both used the same front wheel. In still later years both used a new conical set of wheels, shared between BSA and Triumph. These later wheels are laughingly referred to a "comical hub wheels" due to their poor brakes ( I am told). Electrical: Both BSA and Triumph used Lucas electrical components in virtually identical electrical systems. In the mid 1960's BSA was suffering with an image of a motorcycle 10 with engine problems. It turned out that the engine's problem was the Lucas points cam. It apparently caused the ignition points to bounce at an inopportune time in the engines cycle resulting in a maverick spark. The result was poor performance and ultimately seizures. It took a year or so to figure it out but apparently Triumph's points cam did not suffer the same malady. Triumph earned the reliability reputation while BSA got the opposite, thanks to Lucas. Conclusions: In general the BSA was perhaps a little more modern design and as such should of had potential as a race dominator. But the opposite was true. Triumph got the performance tag due to many TT racing wins. Racers had a very hard time keeping BSA's together it appears. In virtually all areas the BSA was slightly better except the engine. But a motorcycle is the engine. What is not covered here is personal appeal. More people (at least Americans) are more drawn to the Triumph sport look than BSA's utilitarian power egg look. What are my conclusions? I ride a BSA, but it was a bike of opportunity, arriving in my field of view when I knew nothing about the vintage scene, at the right price. With the knowledge I have gained since buying it, today I would choose the Triumph. I really hate that I have spent more than $1000 on my BSA motor and it is no more reliable than before due to that stupid BSA crankshaft endplay control design. Oh well, that's life for you Lynn Bennett Dear Editor, I was recently surprised to come across an advertisement for a motorcycle shop in Culver City that I never knew about. It's from 1958 and was located where the present day George Petrelli's Steak House is . Barry Sulkin 11 Piston Ring Gap… British Cycle Supply Co. 12 Continued on Page 14 13 Piston Ring Gap…..Continued 14 Members Only….For Sale / Wanted For Sale: 1988 Matchless G80 with 600cc electric start engine and original 500cc Rotax engine as spare. Excellent condition, only about 200 made. California licensed and registered. $5000. Barry Sulkin 310 398 6406 12/1/12 See a walk around at : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDOqgxGyNuQ For Sale: BSA M-20 Girder Forks. NOS. $375 plus shipping. Call Barry @ (818) 681 0385 email: [email protected] 1/1/13 FOR SALE: BSA Bantam built and ridden with success by Don Alfred in the early 1950’s scrambles around So California. $1000 Call Chuck Minert 951-763-2738 11/1/12 15 Members only….For Sale/Wanted Rickman 500cc Twin Triumph $8500 or best offer (cash only, no trades, make offer, all offers will be considered) Built from new kit in 2000 Ceriani forks with Race Tech emulators, spare Betor forks. Progressive Suspension adjustable dampening shocks. Spare race tank and newly manufacture Lynn Wineland stock tank. Alloy rims with Rickman hubs and Buchanan stainless spokes and nipples. Modern levers and controls. 1972 Unit Triumph 500cc motor, completely rebuilt in 2000 New Surflex clutch, Open exhaust pipes (one high, one low). Two-into-one exhaust system with titanium spark arrestor muffler for District 37 GP's. Bash plate for GP's, JRC carb, Trick dual foam filter setup Boyer Power Box, battery-less, Boyer electronic analog ignition w/correct coils Stainless steel chassis hardware Converted externally to left hand shift, but possible to put back to right hand shift Currently set up for Vintage GP's but can be put back to MX setup w/low fender/open pipes Low race miles (occasional super senior rider...me and a couple of GP's by my Expert son) Excellent condition..looks fresh and runs strong Too old to ride anymore and son has no interest anymore in Vintage racing Lynn Bennett 760-949-0139 [email protected] 16 Calendar of Events Feb 10 (Sun) Vintage Bike O.C. – Monthly meet at Beach Burgers, 19102 Beach Blvd, Huntington Beach, Ca. 2 – 4pm Feb 17 (Sun) – Ojai Pilgrimage; meet at the Cactus Patch, 197 High St. in “old town” Moorpark; leave at 10 am for Ojai via Santa Paula for a visit to Guy Webster’s classic Italian collection. Info- www.socalnorton.com, or call Bib at 626-791-0259 Feb 24 (Sun) Long Beach Motorcycle Swap-meet, Info: www.socalcycleswapmeet.com Mar 3 (Sun) * BSAOCSC”CINDER CONE” DUAL SPORT RIDE starts in Lucerne Valley at the parking lot of the Highway 247 Restaurant, Junction of Hwy 247 & 18 Meet at 9 AM, ride at 10 AM. Info: Mike Haney (760) 365-9191 or Craig Rich (562) 868-9389. Mar 10 (Sun) Vintage Bike O.C. – Monthly meet at Beach Burgers, 19102 Beach Blvd, Huntington Beach, Ca. 2 – 4pm Mar 17 (Sun) – Frazier Park/ Cuyama Loop; meet at the Denny’s on Frazier Mountain Rd, just west of the I-5; leave at 10 am for Cuyama for lunch, returning via Lockwood Valley. Info- www.socalnorton.com, or call Bib at 626-791-0259 Mar 24 (Sun) * BSAOCSC “INLAND EMPIRE” VINTAGE STREET RIDE starts in the Temecula area. Turn east off the 15 to Walmart parking lot Apis Rd and Hwy 79 south. Meet at 9 AM, ride at 10 AM. Info: Paul Elmore (951) 763-4037 Ride maps and route sheets provided. Ride pins at finish. Mar 24 (Sun) Long Beach Motorcycle Swap-meet, Info: www.socalcycleswapmeet.com Apr 6 (Sat) BSAOCNC CLUBMANS SHOW & SWAP - San Jose Fairgrounds. Apr 7 (Sun) “Morning After Ride” More info Jim Tomich 408-344-9457, or for ride details, Don Danmeier 414-898-0330, or the website www.bsaocnc.org Apr 14 (Sun) * BSAOCSC AL BAKER DUAL SPORT RIDE Meet at 9 AM at the Al Baker Ranch, 16400 Wild Road, Helendale, Ca. Ride starts at 10 AM and is approximately 90-100 miles. For British & other vintage motorcycles with street registration, and spark arresters. Info: John Gardner (310) 920-3393 or Mike Haney (760) 365-9191, Steve Ortiz (951) 245-5287 Apr 14 (Sun) Vintage Bike O.C. – Monthly meet at Beach Burgers, 19102 Beach Blvd, Huntington Beach, Ca. 2 – 4pm 17 BSA Owners Club of Southern California Email & Phone Directory Specialists Gold Star/Winged Wheel: Dick Newby No Email (714) 839-7072 ********** Pre Unit Twin: Clive Brooks [email protected] (714) 771-2534 ********** Grey Porridge: (-: Position Open :-) ********** Unit Singles/B50: Jack Faria (805) 551-4982 ********** Rocket III/Trident: Burt Barrett (661) 832-6109 ********** Triumph/Sidehack: Russ Smith (818) 343-8045 ********** BSA Unit Twins: Bill Getty [email protected] ********** Specialty Tool Consultant: Craig Rich Questions: (562) 868-9389 ********** Please make calls between 9am and 9pm 18 BSA Owners Club Regalia Baseball Caps $14 + $5 Sweatshirts $25 —$28 + $5 S&H S&H Official BSA Owners Club “T” Shirt. Comes in Blue, Red, Grey and Black. Large, XL and XXL. Price is $20 for short sleeve and long sleeve $25. BSA Club sweat shirts are available in limited colors and sizes. Price includes shipping and handling. Take delivery at a Club gathering and save $5. Sizes and colors are limited, so place your order quickly! Contact—Randy Ressell: Regalia Coordinator Hm. (714) 448-1179, E-mail: [email protected] 19 For more info on the San Jose Event please check our web site: www.bsaocsc.org
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