alice manual inc build

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Alice kit instructions
Please read through the instructions and familiarize your self with the parts before starting. Left
and right hand sides refer to the engine as seen from the drivers point of view. Copper pipe work
gets work hardened, if you are struggling to get it bent to shape you can anneal (soften) it by
getting it red hot and plunging in to water. Be careful not to melt any solder joints or fittings, you
can do this any number of times until the pipe is correct. Be careful on tight bends, squeeze the
pipe across its width in a vice if it begins to flatten.
1. The chassis comes complete and may be run on air before commencing with the kit build. The
pipe work from the axle pump to the back of the engine should be removed for ease of build, be
sure not to lose the ball from the top of the pump. Put the washers and banjo bolt back in the pump
for safe keeping.
2. Screw the blast pipe into the top of the valve block, center hole. This pipe will need to be
centralized under the chimney when the smoke box is in place. It is quite soft and can be bent to
shape as required.
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3. Take the smoke box and try in the frames, there are two spacers that go between the frame and
the smoke box, bolt on with M4 bolts, nuts inside the smoke box. Leave lose until fully assembled
with the boiler.
NB The smoke box assembly needs to be air tight, and requires sealing round the base with
heatproof silicone or car exhaust filler after final assembly.
4. Lay the boiler in the frames, supporting the firebox on a suitable block of wood. The front of the
boiler can now be introduced in to the back of the smoke box. The front of the boiler is quite soft
copper and can be worked with a small hammer if out of shape. Position the boiler so the bolts can
be fitted through the frame and into the threaded blocks on the firebox side. (M5) Once in place
the retaining bolt holes can be drilled in to the front of the boiler, bolts are M3 by 25 brass, drill the
hole 3.5mm dia.
NB It is most important that these bolts go into the front lip of the boiler, not into the pressure
vessel. Just mark the boiler with the point of the drill, remove the boiler and make sure the hole is
going through the front lip only. Replace the boiler and continue drilling when you are sure the fit
is correct. Do not put the boiler too far into the smoke box. The bolts go through the holes in the
side of the smoke box, the three tapped holes near the top are for the tank fixing.
5. The firebox end of the boiler can now be secured to the frame, the bolts on the left side go
through the hand pump support angle bracket, the frame, and into the tapped boiler side blocks.
(M5 by 12) On the right side the bolts also go through the reverser stand and the angle bracket has
a larger hole for the brake stand, (M5 by 16). Smoke box and boiler bolts can be given a final
tighten and the smoke box sealed. Fit the chimney and chimney top to the smoke box.
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6. The reverser stand assembly should be connected up, the reach rod runs outside the dummy
springs and on to the weigh shaft lever on the frame side. Check that the lever works full stroke
and the valve gear moves in to full forward and back position.
7. The main steam pipe in the smoke box can now be fitted. This needs to be shaped to fit between
the front of the boiler and the threaded hole in the top of the valve block.
Make sure the O ring is in place on the front of the boiler outlet pipe, fix in place with 3 M4 by 20
stainless bolts. The bottom of the pipe is connected to the valve block with a brass banjo bolt,
sealed with washers top and bottom.
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8. Take the four slide bars and fit them to the back covers of the cylinders, M4 hex bolts. The
motion brackets can now be fitted to the other end of the slide bars, using M3 round head screws.
Check you have left and right hand correct, the curved top of the motion bracket should be
horizontal ready to bolt to the footplate.
9. You can now put the footplate on left side. M2 hex screws in the rear buffer beam and the
motion bracket, M3 round head in the front buffer beam. Check the holes line up for the hand
pump bracket, drill or file out the footplate to fit, check this with the hand pump its self as well.
Before fitting the right footplate bend up the whistle pipe (E) and fit it to the whistle valve, so as to
fit through the cut out in the footplate behind the reverser stand.
10. The bypass valve and axle pump pipe work can now be fitted to the right side of the engine,
bend the feed pipe to get to the check valve on the right of the regulator. The return pipe from the
bypass valve (A) can be fitted but the other end can be left until the tank is in place.
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11. The hand brake stand and handle can now be fitted through the footplate and angle bracket on
the right hand side. The screwed end of the handle goes into the brake lever on the chassis, directly
under the brake handle.
12. The hand pump is fitted to the holes in the left foot plate, bend up the pipe to go from the top
of the pump to the check valve on the left of the regulator. The longer hand pump pipe is bent in a
tight curve to lay along side the pump base and then turns up to match the feed from the tank.
Pipes B and C.
13. The blower pipe (D) can be bent to shape so as to run from the blower valve down the side of
the firebox and along the boiler under where the tank sits. It is then bent to go round the smoke box
and in through the hole in the side of the smoke box. Inside it needs to be shaped so the nozzle end
lays beside the blast pipe and points directly at the base of the chimney. Hold it in place with a
twist of copper wire round the blast pipe.
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14. Now the tank can be tried on the top of the boiler, there are three M3 by 12 screws that go
through the bracket on each side of the chimney into the smoke box. When the fit is correct lay the
insulation on the top of the boiler and fit the tank over it. Position the pipe work under the tank
outlets and connect up.
15. Take the two bunker sides and fit them to the footplate, 5 M2 screws each side. The back cab
foot step is retained by the handrail on the back of the bunker, secured with an M4 nut once in
place. Drill through the hole in the back buffer beam in to the back of the step, secure the step to
the buffer beam with an M2 by 8 nut and bolt.
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16. Next fit the cab back, just two M4 nuts are required to hold this in place when the hand rail
ends have been put through the back footplate.
NB This item is easily removable for driving.
17. Fit the couplers front and rear, smaller M5 to the front, larger M6 to the rear.
18. Last job is to fit the grate and ash pan. Check the grate goes easily into the bottom of the
firebox. File off the grate as required so this is lose fit, it needs to go right in, the bottom of the
grate is level with the bottom of the firebox. Next fit the front ash pan support to the brake cross
member. This support is a circular brass piece, it comes into two halves and can be fitted round the
brake cross shaft without doing any disassembly.
Now try the ash pan in place under the firebox, positioned so the two cross bars on the ash pan
hold the grate in place. The front of the ash pan needs to be tight up against the circular ash pan
support. Once you are happy with the position mark through the hole in the frame on to the ash pan
both sides. Remove the ash pan and drill 4mm dia, refit to check the positions are correct.
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Once complete run through a test procedure, fill the tanks, work the pumps, check for leaks. Fill
the boiler right to the brim with water and carry on with pumping. This will bring the pressure up
on the pressure gauge. You can check for leaks, (the odd weep on a fitting may be expected) and
you can set the safety valve to go at 80 PSI. Once complete you can test run the engine on air or
steam.
Finishing touches, you can buy from maxitrak touch up paint in the right colours for touching up
nut’s & bolts, and its a good idea to give all the body colour parts a good coat of wax so it has
protection against water and oil from day to day running.
Any question please contact us on 01580 893030
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HINTS ON THE DRIVING AND MAINTENANCE OF STEAM ENGINES
General Safety
Please note the following risks should be borne in mind when operating steam engines.
Fire:
Coal fired engines
Treat the fire with respect; remember hot ash or cinders may be thrown from the chimney
and grate of the locomotive. Wear safety goggles.
Fire:
Gas fired engines
Gas is highly explosive; avoid gas leaks and naked flames especially when re-
fuelling.
Steam: The boiler contains steam under pressure and has very hot surfaces; avoid
scalds or burns from any part of the boiler, smokebox or pipework. Make sure the boiler
has a hydraulic test regularly (2 year for steel boiler, 4 years for copper boilers). Check
safety valves are operating and correctly set. Be extra careful when working on or near
water gauge glasses so as not to damage them.
General:
Any ride on vehicle should be regularly maintained. Make sure gear
covers or other safety covers are in place (traction engines).
If in any doubt about any part for operation of the steam engine, consult a
competent person. Ensure that the steam engine is in good mechanical condition
before each use. This includes checking for loose nuts and bolts, fittings, etc.
LIGHTING UP
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Items required for successful steaming
WATER SUPPLY
BARBEQUE LIGHTING FLUID
MATCHES/ LIGHTER
SUPPLY OF ANTHRACITE or STEAM COAL
SHOVEL & POKER
ELECTRIC BLOWER
FLUE TUBE BRUSH
CLEANING MATERIAL (CLOTHS, etc)
Firstly, fill the boiler with water (preferably rain water). Fill the tank and pump water in to
the boiler using the hand pump or feed water through a tube into the BLOWDOWN
VALVE until the WATER GAUGE is showing half full.
Water will flow by gravity from a container placed higher than the boiler if one of the
valves is left open to allow air out.
Open the WATER VALVE and prime the AXLE PUMP by pushing the loco along until all
air is expelled from the pump. Shovel a layer of BARBEQUE LIGHTER SOAKED
CHARCOAL over the entire GRATE surface, rags or wood soaked in lighter fluid or
paraffin is a secondary substitute. The firebox needs to be pretty much full of charcoal
before starting. Put a light to the fire and switch on the ELECTRIC BLOWER as quickly as
possible after the fire is lit. Add a thin layer of COAL or ANTHRACITE once the charcoal
is well alight. The fire should always look bright, add more soaked charcoal if the fire
looks dull. Keep the fire door closed as much as possible, the fire only draws when the
door is closed.
Check that all the VALVES and the REGULATOR are closed.
LUBRICATE all moving parts such as: CROSSHEAD, COUPLING and CONNECTING
RODS, VALVE GEAR AXLEBOXES etc. Fill the LUBRICATOR using STEAM OIL only.
Motor oil or steam oil can be used on the moving parts of the CHASSIS.
Check the fire regularly, adding a thin layer when the fire is really bright until there is a
bright fire of around 1” to 11/2” deep. (20 to 30mm)
When the PRESSURE GAUGE is showing 30-40lbs psi, the ELECTRIC BLOWER may
be removed and the locomotives own blower turned on fully to draw the fire. Turn the
BLOWER down as pressure increases until it is open just a touch at full working pressure.
Check that the SAFETY VALVES are lifting correctly. It may be necessary to adjust the
SAFETY VALES on the very first run. Screw the spring retainer down to increase
pressure and up to reduce pressure.
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Do not unscrew so far that the top blows out! Set the SAFETY VALVES to start blowing a
little below the working pressure (AS SHOWN ON THE BOILER TEST CERTIFICATE)
Steam should be raised within 10-15 minutes, pump in extra water with the HANDPUMP
as necessary.
DRIVING
Select full forward gear, reversing lever right forward. Open the REGULATOR a small
amount and push the loco forward slowly. Continue to push the loco to and fro until steam
rather than water is expelled from the automatic draincocks and the chimney. Check the
fire, rake out any charcoal and ensuring you have a good coal fire before taking a heavy
load. Couple the loco to the train, select full forward (or reverse) gear, turn off the
BLOWER and open the REGULATOR sufficient to start the train without slipping the
wheels. Once underway control the speed with the regulator. If the valves are well timed
and the load is light the engine can be run in the “notch up” position to save steam, pull
the reversing lever back to its second notch when in forward gear.
THE MOST IMPORTANT FACET WHEN DRIVING IS TO KEEP SUFFICIENT WATER
IN THE BOILER, DAMAGE MAY WELL OCCUR SHOULD THE BOILER RUN DRY.
Open the WATER VALVE a couple of turns to clear any trapped air, close the valve and
you should hear the PUMP and NON RETURN VALVES ‘clack’ as water is pumped into
the boiler. Open the WATER VALVE to control the flow of water setting it to maintain a
steady water level in the water gauge (about half full). Check the pump ram, only the
merest drop of water should get passed at each stroke of the pump, replace the pump 0
ring in the event of excessive leakage.
The CROSSHEAD PUMP or AXLE PUMP only works when the loco is in motion, use the
hand pump to top up water when the train is stationary. The water in the tank will be used
rapidly, lift the lid on the tank and check the level, refill as required.
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THE MOST DEMANDING FACET OF SUCESSFUL DRIVING IS KEEPING THE FIRE
GOING
Always use the LOCO BLOWER when stationary or if the loco is working ‘light’. Add coal
regularly in small amounts especially when the fire is an all over bright red. Rake out the
fire if steam pressure drops and add fresh coal. Ensure the ASHPAN doesn’t become so
full that it clogs the fire. Equally, don’t fill the firebox so that the bottom row of TUBES are
obstructed. After continuous use on a long run, the SMOKEBOX will probably require
cleaning out. Keep an eye on the contents of the LUBRICATOR. There should always be
oil in the soot in the CHIMNEY. Always drain the lubricator before refilling, adjust the oil
flow so as to use all the oil an about one hour (open about half a turn). On a new loco set
the flow higher, about one turn open, and refill more often.
FINISHING THE RUN
Drop the fire and clean out the ASHPAN. Open the BLOWDOWN VALVE and drain off
the BOILER. Drain off the TANKS or TENDER and clear away any dirt or coal dust. Clean
the SMOKEBOX and TUBES with a flue brush. Clean the accumulated soot and oil from
the loco, including the CHASSIS and WHEELS. Polish all brightwork such as BOILER
BANDS, CHIMNEY TOP, etc.
SAFETY
WHEN WORKING HARD IT IS LIKELY THAT HOT ASH AND SPARKS WILL BE
EMITTED FROM THE CHIMNEY AND A SENSIBLE PRECAUTION IS TO WEAR
INDUSTRIAL GLASSES OR GOGGLES. BE WARY OF THE WATER GAUGE,
ESPECIALLY WHEN TIGHTENING THE SEALING NUTS. BE CAREFUL WHEN FIRING
THAT THE GAUGE GLASS IS NOT CRACKED OR BROKEN WITH THE SHOVEL.
DON’T FORGET THAT THE CONTROL HANDLES ARE VERY HOT IN USE AND A
SMALL PIECE OF CLOTH SHOULD BE CARRIED WHILST DRIVING. ALWAYS OPEN
AND CLOSE THE FIREBOX DOOR WITH THE SHOVEL, NOT BY HAND
LONG TERM MAINTENANCE
The BOILER will need to be ‘de-furred’ occasionally, Use a commercial kettle de-furring
solution, following the accompanying instructions. A furred BOILER should be suspected
when the BLOWDOWN VALVE appears blocked or sluggish when fully open. Use of
clean rain water will help prevent furring of the BOILER.
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After a number of years of continuous use, some of the BUSHES on the VALVE GEAR
and the CROSSHEADS may require replacement. These spare parts are obtainable from
MAXITRAK.
PROBLEM
1 - Wheels tight when turned
CAUSE
1.3 – New chassis
1.4 – Wheel quartering out
2 – Cylinders tight
2.1 – New packing
2.2 – Piston rod bent
2.3 – Crosshead out of line
2.4 - Binding
PROBLEM
3 – Irregular running on
steam or air
CAUSE
3.1 – Valve timing out
3.2 – Return crank has moved
3.3 – Tightness or binding in
cylinders
4 – Leak in fittings or
pipework
CURE
Initial tightness will reduce as
bearings etc bed-in
Return to manufacturer
Initial tightness will reduce as
glands bed-in
Straighten or return to manufacturer
Check the lie of the crosshead and
shim up the slide bar if necessary
Check glands, crosshead etc. and
clean off any ‘pick-up’
CURE
Remove Valve timing screws and
adjust
Tighten grub screw
See Problems 1 & 2
4.1 – Unions loose
Tighten
4.2 – Fittings loose
Tighten with new PTFE tape or
plumbers jointing
Re-solder or return to manufacturer
4.3 – Leak in soldered joint
5 – Leak in water gauge
5.1 - Incorrectly fitted rubber
rings
Cut new rings from tube and fit. A
small leak under cold hydraulic test
is acceptable.
6 - Poor steaming
6.1 – Air leaks in smokebox
Check firebox door, chimney, pipe
holes etc. for leaks. Seal as
necessary
Check that the nozzle is directly
aligned under the chimney. Also
check the valve timing, correct fuel
and that there is no ash build up in
the tubes, smokebox, ashpan etc.
6.2 – Blast nozzle incorrectly
aligned
7 – Loses Boiler pressure
7.1 – Blower blocked
7.2 - Incorrect nozzle position
7.3 – Air leaks in the smokebox
PROBLEM
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CAUSE
Clear with a pin
Point the nozzle directly up the
chimney
Check the seals and fit of the
smokebox
CURE
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8 – Axle pump fails to
maintain water level
8.1 – Gland leaking
Tighten or re-pack the gland
8.2 – Balls valves in pump
sticking or leaking
8.3 – Pump fitted upside down
Remove and clean balls and seats.
Replace balls if necessary
Fit correctly with the inlet at the
bottom
Blow through to clear. Check the
pump. Remove the top union,
cover the outlet with a finger, push
the loco to work the pump. Water
should overcome finger pressure.
Balls in the pump and non-return
valve can be heard ‘clacking’ when
the pump is operating
8.4 – Pipes blocked
9 – Hand pump failure
9.1 - Balls stuck or leaking
9.2 - Pipework or unions
leaking
PROBLEM
10- Injector failure
CAUSE
10.1 – Air leaks in the system
10.2 – Blockage in injector
10.3 – Water/injector too hot
11 – Lubricator failure
(mechanical)
There should always be oil
or oily soot around the top of
the chimney. Squeaks and
stiffness in the cylinders
indicates lubricator failure.
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CURE
Ensure that rubber pipe
connections and glands are tight
Check that there is a pinhole
through the body. If not soak in
vinegar and blow through to clear.
DO NOT attempt to clear a blocked
injector with a wire or pin. Return to
makers for testing.
Re-fill tanks with cold water. Cool
injector
11.1 – Rachet does not move
forward one notch
Check for lost movement on
linkage. Raise the drive arm up the
lubricator arm to increase
movement
11.2 – Rachet wheel sticks
Damage to ratchet wheel or pawl.
Repair or return to manufacturer
Check for blocked or leaking pump,
pipework or non-return valve.
Check the lubricator. Remove the
oil feed pipe, cover outlet with
finger. Turn the ratchet wheel to
work the pump. Oil should
overcome finger pressure. If oil still
fails to reach the cylinders, check
non-return valve for too strong
spring tension or sticking
CURE
Check for blockage in pipe and
needle valve. Remove and clean as
11.3 – No oil feed
PROBLEM
12- Lubricator Failure
(displacement type)
Remove and clean ball and seats
(try hot water in the tanks before
removing the pump)
See Problem 5.
CAUSE
12.1 – No oil feed
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necessary
There should always be oil or
oily soot around the top of the
chimney. Squeaks and
stiffness in the cylinders
indicates lubricator failure.
13 – Leaks or corrosion in
water tanks
13.1 – Cracks in solder or tank
seals
Seal with waterproof mastic Use
Bitumastic paint in tanks to seal
small leaks and corrosion. NOTE
Bitumastic paint must be dry before
filling tanks with water
14 – Poor steaming and
blowdown valve blocked
14.1 – Build-up of scale in the
boiler
14 – Poor steaming and
blowdown valve blocked
14.1 – Build-up of scale in the
boiler
PROBLEM
15 - Steam blows up chimney
CAUSE
15.1 – Worn packing in pistons
Soak the boiler in vinegar for 24
hours. Remove blowdown valve
and washout boiler scale. ( A kettle
de-furrer can be used but follow
manufacturer’s instructions)
Soak the boiler in vinegar for 24
hours. Remove blowdown valve
and washout boiler scale. ( A kettle
de-furrer can be used but follow
manufacturer’s instructions)
CURE
Remove piston and re-pack
graphite packing. Replace the
PTFE ring (if fitted)
Check for scoring on the valve
portface or NEW VALVES OFTEN
LEAK WHEN NEW until bedded in
15.2 – Valve leaking
16 - Valve gear will not notchup
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16.1 - Wear in valve gear.
Fit new brushes to eccentrics, rods,
etc.
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